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Posts Tagged ‘Frame’

iOS 13.2 beta adds the ability to change resolution, frame rate of video in stock Camera app

11 Oct

The latest developer beta of iOS (iOS 13.2 beta 2) adds a new feature to the latest iPhone 11 devices that should make shooting video a little easier.

As of iOS 13.2 beta 2, iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro and iPhone 11 Pro Max users will have the option to change the resolution and frame rate of the video being captured with a simple tap. As shown in the below tweet from iOS developer Ryan Jones, the update makes it possible to switch between various video settings without the need to go back into the Settings app.

As Jones showcases in the above screen capture, the setting changes are sequential, going from 720p to 1080p to 4K and from 24 to 30 to 60 frames per second.

The lack of settings control from within the iOS Camera app has long been a sore spot of the stock Camera app. This update doesn’t address the issues with the still photography interface and is only a small step in the right direction, but it’s progress nonetheless. Hopefully, we’ll see Apple make it easier to control Raw capture, HDR settings and more still photography settings from directly inside the Camera app.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos

20 Aug

The post Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anthony Epes.

ways-to-improve-your-photos

Successful photographs usually have one thing in common – an obvious point of focus or a subject that is the dominating element.

One of the main reasons a photograph falls flat is because there is no central or main feature to draw in the viewer’s attention.

One very easy way to combat boring, flat photos is to practice the simple idea of filling the frame.

Of course, you might say – I always fill the frame; it’s impossible not to!

ways-to-improve-your-photos

With this idea, though, you are working on being a lot more intentional about how you compose.

When we “fill the frame,” we are attempting to make a photo’s intention completely clear. The viewer should have no doubt as to what the photograph is about.

Instead of getting fixated on your subject, and focusing your attention almost totally on that (something I see people doing all the time on my workshops), we are considering every single part of the frame.

ways-to-improve-your-photos

We are looking at the corners. This is probably the most common thing many of my students don’t do – look at what’s in their corners.

Often there are things that don’t need to be there which you only realize afterward when studying your images.

We are considering what is running alongside the edges. What’s poking in that shouldn’t be there? It’s amazing how a stray branch or a bit of litter can make its way into your image without you noticing.

ways-to-improve-your-photos

We become aware of every part of the frame to make sure that every single element is working to complement our subject.

Now, this is key. Every single thing in your frame needs to be working with, or complementing your subject.

If it’s not, you need to move around and try to work the subject and surrounding elements into a better composition.

Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos

Sometimes a photographer will react too quickly. They make a photo from where they are standing instead of thinking about the most favorable position to be in and how it can greatly improve the image.

I mention position here because I believe it is the first option when it comes to filling the frame with a subject.

Usually, what happens when we do not fill the frame with our subject is we end up creating a lot of space in the photograph. This is all fine if you are using this space with intent. However, if you are not, then it just looks vast and empty, and your subject is competing with the “bad space.”

Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos

Changing your position and getting closer to your subject is your best first choice. Remove that unwanted space by physically moving closer or zoom in if you must. (I will always prefer moving to zooming).

Have a look at the photos of mine that I’ve included in this article. They are all images where everything in the frame is 100% relevant. Even with a complex image like this, I have considered every part of it:

Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos

5 Simple but Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos

1. Always think about your position

In general, bad photographs have way too much wasted space. You can easily remedy this by thinking about your position relative to your subject.

Do you need to get closer to reduce wasted space around your subject? This also has the added benefit of making a photo more intimate when you get closer.

Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos

2. If moving is not an option, then consider switching lenses

If changing position is not possible, then now would be a good time to switch lenses. This method is not as good (I think) as changing your physical position, but it can allow you to fill the frame, drawing interest to your subject.

ways-to-improve-your-photos

3. Check the edges of the frame

This is a very common mistake for beginner-photographers.

Some do not put enough effort into looking at the entire frame and what lies on the edges of it. When you shoot this way, you find yourself cropping a lot more to remove those things you overlooked when shooting.

It is better to learn to see the whole frame than to get good at cropping because you didn’t see it in-camera.

Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos

4. Photography is a process of reduction

Let’s say you moved in closer to fill that frame. Now is a good time to ask yourself – is there anything else that does not need to be in the frame?

You can find the answer to this by asking if it is helping or hurting your subject. If you decide the element does not need to be there then take it out.

This usually requires a change of position or some movement from you!

ways-to-improve-your-photos

5. Don’t fixate on your subject

If you are really dedicated to filling your frame and making better images, then my one ultimate piece of advice is to NOT fixate on your subject.

This is the #1 reason photographers are dissatisfied with their images later.

Sure, be in awe and wonder of what you are shooting, that’s part of the joy of doing photography. However, don’t lose yourself to the point your composition is not it’s very best.

ways-to-improve-your-photos

Conclusion

Remember to always shoot with intent.

I would love to know what you think of my tips and ideas about ways to improve your photos. Please let me know in the comments below.

Is this an idea you practice? Alternatively, is this new and you think you might use this in the future?

Thanks for reading.

 

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The post Filling the Frame: 5 Simple Yet Powerful Ways to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anthony Epes.


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Magicbooster Pro launched for 6K Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera to emulate full frame sensor

20 Aug

LucAdapters has launched a crowd funding campaign to develop a focal reducer for the newly announced Super 35mm 6K cinema camera from Blackmagic Design. The reducer will allow users to mount full frame lenses on the camera with only a slight crop, thus emulating the look of a camera with a full frame sensor.

The company has history with this kind of adapter and currently makes a reducer for the Ursa Mini called Magicbooster Pro, and has in the past made a full-frame adapter for the Samsung NX1. This new model will be called Magicbooster Pocket 6K and will combine the benefits of a 1 stop increase in effective aperture as well as decreasing the crop factor of the 6K area of the camera’s Super 35mm sensor from 1.5x to 1.1x. This allows full frame lenses to practically maintain their intended angle of view when recording 6K footage, with a 50mm lens acting like a 55mm with the reducer instead of like a 75mm without it.

Here’s a video made with the current Magicbooster, shot on Blackmagic Ursa mini 4.6K by PILOTMOVIES.

The Magicbooster Pocket 6K will be fully compatible with all of Canon’s EF lenses according to LucAdapters, but not EF-S models. The Magicbooster fits inside the camera’s throat leaving the mount untouched, and replaces some internal parts of the camera itself in doing so. The unit comprises a small barrel with lens elements at the end. It screws into the camera with the magnifying lens sitting directly in front of the camera’s sensor and behind the IR filter.

Buyers will receive a replacement UV-IR cut filter that the company claims is better than that which is shipped with the camera. Such a degree of installation is required that it isn’t the sort of adapter that can be attached and unattached in a couple of seconds, but it also means there’s no need to add and remove the adapter every time you have to change a lens.

LucAdapter says the Magicbooster Pocket 6K will ship in November this year, and will cost from €499 (approx. $ 550). For more information see the LucAdapters Magicbooster Pocket 6K Kickstarter campaign.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Entaniya announces 220-degree PL-mount fisheye for Super 35, full frame cameras

06 Aug

Japanese fisheye specialist Entaniya has introduced a new fisheye lens in a PL mount that’s aimed at large format video camera users, and which can offer a range of effective focal lengths using different sized spacers. The Entaniya Fisheye HAL 220 is designed to cover Super 35mm and full frame sensors and can provide focal lengths between 6.14mm and 8.03mm through 15 increments via the included set of zoom spacers.

The lens has a maximum aperture of T2.9 and uses 17 elements in 12 groups to provide a maximum angle of view of 220°. The depth of the spacer used has an impact on the size of the covering circle of the lens, so when the thinner spacers are used—or no spacer—the lens has a smaller covering circle. This is useful for those who want a circular image, but doesn’t leave out those needing the whole recording area covered.

No pricing or availability details have been released so far. For more information and to see how the lens covers different formats go to the Entaniya website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Why You Need a Digital Photo Frame

12 Jun

The post Why You Need a Digital Photo Frame appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

One of the unsung heroes of modern photography is the tried-and-true digital photo frame. These simple devices have been around for years, and yet they are rarely discussed in photography circles. With huge televisions adorning our walls, and smartphones stuffed into our pockets, one might wonder why there is any reason to own a digital photo frame. In the past few years, I have grown to greatly appreciate these devices, and I have realized how valuable, useful, and downright practical they are. If you or someone you know needs a good solution to viewing photos, a digital frame might be just what you’re looking for.

When digital frames first came on the market back in the mid-2000s, they were a great idea severely hampered by bad technology. Bezels were huge, the screens were small, and the images were dim and blurry. Setting up frames required toiling through a myriad of menus with nonsensical buttons and on-screen context clues.

Adding images to a digital frame was an exercise in frustration and required many steps on the part of the user. Plus, transitions between pictures were garish and often unbecoming of the memories on display.

It’s no wonder most people have stopped thinking about digital frames!

If this sounds like you, you’re not alone.

I was in the same boat until recently. However, the more I investigated what modern technology offers, the more impressed I became. In contrast to their counterparts from a decade ago, today’s digital frames have bright displays, show large high-resolution photos, are thin and sleek, and cost less than you might think. They often have cloud-based interfaces, offer companion smartphone apps, and can even show video clips.

The Nixplay Seed Wave has a large screen and wi-fi connectivity.

One-Trick Pony

One of the best reasons to get a digital frame isn’t because of what they can do, but what they can’t do. It seems silly to have yet another device in a world where screens already surround us, but the digital frames eschew the traditional idea of a computer screen by turning it on its head. They follow the adage of doing one thing and doing it well.

Most digital frames don’t let you do anything but view pictures. And this is precisely what makes them so great. They don’t run thousands of apps, let you surf social networks, or make video calls. They don’t play games, won’t let you binge-watch Netflix or YouTube, and don’t bombard you with notifications.

Digital frames sit there, passively doing only one thing: showing your pictures.

The Aura Digital Photo Frame has facial-recognition built into its companion app and a touchscreen for navigating options.

In an era where every device and gadget continually begs for our attention, digital frames are like an oasis in the middle of the desert. It’s downright refreshing to see a bright digital frame sitting on a shelf, knowing you can’t do anything with it other than look at pictures.

You don’t have to worry about software updates, and your viewing experience isn’t cluttered with dozens of icons and bubbles vying for your attention. In a media-saturated world, digital frames are a great way to slow down and enjoy, appreciate, and reflect on your pictures without distraction.

Some smart appliances like the Amazon Echo Show and Google Nest Hub act as photo frames, but I prefer the simplicity and focus of a dedicated frame. Other devices like that are nice, but the features they offer can often distract you from just enjoying your photos.

Advanced frames like the Google Nest Hub Max do lots of things, but I prefer simpler frames that don’t have built-in cameras, digital assistants, or alert bubbles begging for your attention.

To print or not to print

Like many people, my wife and I have struggled for years with the question of what to do about getting prints made of our pictures. We’ve made yearbooks that adorn our end tables, mounted framed snapshots on dressers, and festooned our walls with large prints and canvases. These are great, and we enjoy them a great deal, but every one of them eventually grows old over time.

When that inevitably happens, we have to consider what to do next. Do we keep the old prints around? Do we put up new images in place of what was once there? There are also practical concerns, like where to get prints made, what size to make them, and what happens when our favorite photo book publisher goes out of business?

We enjoy seeing prints as much as anyone, but the logistical hassles have added layers of stress and indecision onto what should be an enjoyable process.

The Pix-Star 15-inch frame lets you see your photos without printing them.

A digital frame solves almost all of these problems. Our 8×10″ Nixplay Seed sits in our living room showing a massive assortment of images without any effort from us. In the course of a single day, we see photos of family vacations, our kids when they were infants, and old slides that we scanned from negatives. We don’t have to think about switching photos out, spend entire evenings trying to decide which images are worth printing, or wonder whether a particular photo is worthy of being displayed for all to see.

Of course, there are still plenty of reasons to get pictures printed. But if you want a simple way to enjoy your pictures without the hassle of making physical copies, a digital frame might be right for you.

As is the case with most digital gadgets these days, storage space is not the same constraint as it used to be. Many frames have internal storage of at least 8GB, which is enough for almost 10,000 images. If that’s not enough, you can look for one with a removable memory card slot to add even more space.

Modern digital frames have more than enough storage space for your pictures. Unlike your walls and bookshelves, which can quickly fill up with physical prints.

Image quality

If you think that displaying your images on a digital frame means sacrificing overall quality, think again. This might have been true in 2005, but now, frames are leaps and bounds beyond where they used to be. As recently as a few years ago, many frames had resolutions of about 72 or 96dpi – similar to that of older computers.

This resolution is fine if you’re viewing your images from a distance, as often is the case when using frames in a household setting. However, frames today often have much higher pixel densities or anywhere between 150-300dpi that put them on par with most laptop screens and even that of some mobile phones.

This means that your images, even when viewed up close, are as crisp and sharp as you would see if you got them printed and you’ll be able to make out every detail from wisps of hair to blades of grass.

Aura makes a 9.7-inch frame with 2048×1536 resolution, which shows your memories in crisp, clear detail.

Most modern digital frames use bright screens that are now viewable from any angle, unlike older versions which required you to stand in the right spot to see your images. Your pictures appear bright and colorful, and some digital frames even let you show video clips alongside your images.

Worry-free sharing

With all the recent problems regarding data privacy on social network sites like Instagram and Facebook, it’s no wonder so many people are deleting their accounts! If you, or your friends and family, are limiting your social media usage but still want to see pictures of the important things in your life, a digital frame is just the answer. To illustrate this, I’m going to use my in-laws as an example.

My wife’s parents aren’t on any social media at all, and they prefer to spend their time reading, gardening, walking the dogs, and going out with friends. This means they don’t get to see any pictures of their grandchildren unless we send them physical prints, which they have to find a spot to display. A few months ago, my wife and I bought them a digital photo frame and have since populated it with well over a thousand images of us and our kids.

Do you have friends or family members who aren’t on social media? Get them a digital frame and fill it with photos for them to enjoy.

We shared their frame information with other family members who have also sent pictures to the frame. My wife’s parents love it! The frame sits in their living room, showing photos of the people they love without any effort on their part. And, they didn’t have to join a social network or share any personal data.

If you have people in your life who are concerned about data-mining and privacy, consider a digital frame as a happy medium. It allows you to share pictures on a more limited and intentional basis than sites like Instagram or Flickr. But the tradeoff is, you are in full control of the images, and none of your personal information is sold to third-parties for advertising.

This simple Tenker 7-inch frame, and others like it, won’t send your photos off to be analyzed for advertising.

Tips

Here’s a few more tips that might help you with digital frames.

  • Set your display to change pictures less often. Every hour or less is much better than every 30 seconds. It will seem slow at first, but you’ll get a lot more enjoyment in the long term. You won’t feel like you’re seeing the same images over and over.
  • Export your photos to the resolution of your frame to save on storage space. Sending a 24-megapixel image to a 3-megapixel frame won’t do you any good at all.
  • Set your friends and family up with sharing permissions so they can send you photos. Then make sure to return the favor and send photos to their frames too.
  • You can build your own photo frame with a cheap Android tablet and some software, but I recommend getting an off-the-shelf model. It’s just easier and will probably make your life a lot simpler in the long run.
  • Most modern frames have built-in memory but also sync with cloud storage options like Dropbox and Google Drive. You might have to configure a few settings, but it can make the already-easy process of sending pictures even simpler.

Do you use a digital photo frame? Or, are there reasons why you don’t? Feel free to share with us in the comments below.

 

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The post Why You Need a Digital Photo Frame appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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DPReview TV: Full frame mirrorless camera party

30 Dec

It’s time to ring in the New Year, and we invite you to join us at the Full Frame Mirrorless camera party, where we’ll meet old friends and maybe some new ones as well. Happy New Year from DPReview TV!

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Full Frame VS Crop Sensor VS Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained

05 Dec

The post Full Frame VS Crop Sensor VS Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.

1 - Full Frame VS Crop Sensor VS Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained

‘DSLR Camera, Full-Frame, Crop Sensor’- Just 3 terms which are prevalent in virtually every discussion involving photography. The two terms in use to classify sensor sizes of a DSLR camera are ‘Full-Frame’ and ‘Crop-Sensor.’ A Full-Frame camera contains a sensor size equivalent to a 35mm film format whereas a Crop-Sensor camera has a sensor size smaller than a full-frame sensor or a 35mm film format.

Micro-Four-Thirds (4/3) is a relatively new format (and term). First introduced around 2008, this sensor is slightly smaller and compact in nature. However, owing to a variety of factors, this format is now considered almost equal to, if not better than, the Crop Sensor format.

Apart from the physical size difference, there are several other points of difference between a full-frame sensor, a crop-sensor, and a micro-four-thirds sensor. Let’s take a look at a comparison between them under the following characteristics, to get an accurate understanding of their differences.

Crop Factor

As mentioned above, a full-frame camera has a 35mm sensor based on the old film-format concept. Whereas, a crop-sensor (also called APS-C) has a crop factor of 1.5x (Nikon) or 1.6x (Canon). Micro-Four-Thirds are even smaller sensors having a crop factor of 2x.

This crop factor also directly affects our field of view. Simply put, an APS-C sensor would show us a cropped (tighter) view of the same frame as compared to a full-frame sensor, and a Micro-Four-Thirds sensor would show an even tighter (more cropped) output of the same frame.

2 - Full Frame VS Crop Sensor VS Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained

LEFT: Photo clicked using a Full-Frame camera. CENTER: Photo clicked using a Crop-Sensor camera. RIGHT: Photo clicked using a Micro-Four-Thirds camera.

Focal Length

The focal length obtained by different sensors is also directly associated with crop-factor. The focal length measurement of any given lens is based on the standard 35mm film format. Whenever we use any crop-sensor camera, its sensor crops out the edges of the frame, which effectively increases the focal length. However, this is not the case with any full-frame sensor, as there is no cropping involved with a full-frame field of view.

For example, in the Nikon eco-system, a crop-sensor camera such as the D5600 has a ‘multiplier factor’ of 1.5x. Thus, if I mount a 35mm f/1.8 lens on my Nikon D5600, it would multiply the focal length by 1.5x, thus effectively giving me a focal length output of around 52.5mm. If you mount the same lens on a full-frame Nikon body such as the D850, it gives an output of 35mm.

Similarly, if you mount a 35mm lens on a Micro-Four-Thirds sensor, which has a crop factor of 2x, it effectively doubles the focal length obtained to around 70mm.

3 - Full Frame VS Crop Sensor VS Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained

LEFT: Photo clicked at 35mm on a Full-Frame camera. CENTER: Photo clicked at 35mm on a Crop-Sensor camera. RIGHT: Photo clicked at 35mm on a Micro-Four-Thirds camera.

Depth of Field

Similar to focal length, the aperture or f-stop measurement of a lens is based on the full-frame 35mm format. Similar to focal length, a ‘multiplier effect’ gets applied to the f-stop when using crop-sensors. As we know, the f-stop or aperture is the singular most important factor that affects the Depth of Field.

Thus, a Micro-Four-Thirds camera gives us less (shallow) Depth of Field at similar focal lengths when compared with a full-frame camera. For example, an image shot at f/1.8 on a Micro-Four-Thirds camera would give an output similar to an image shot at f/3.6 on a full-frame camera, and f/2.7 on a crop sensor camera. This is assuming that the effective focal length, and other shooting conditions, are the same.

Low Light Performance

Generally, full-frame cameras provide not only better low light & high ISO performance, but a better dynamic range. These factors combined eventually produces a much better image output than any crop-sensor camera can achieve.

Full-frame cameras are capable of capturing the most light and will almost always out-perform an APS-C or Micro-Four-Thirds camera body under low-light conditions. Micro-Four-Thirds sensors don’t perform well under low-light conditions where the ISO needs to be cranked up to say, above 2000.

For these reasons, despite full-frame camera kits being expensive, bulky and heavy to carry around, they are still industry-standard and the preferred cameras for virtually all professional photography work.

Conclusion

Thus, while full-frame DSLR’s remaining the industry standard even today, we cannot ignore the undeniable advantages of the Micro-Four-Thirds cameras. Micro-Four-Third cameras, such as the Olympus EP-5 & the Panasonic GH5, are affordable and easy to carry around. Thus, enabling a much larger group of people (who are hobbyists and enthusiasts but not professionals) to have access to DSLR-like shooting conditions at a fraction of the price.

Ultimately, factors such as your budget, use and other criteria define whether you choose either Full-Frame, Crop-Sensor, or Micro-Four-Thirds cameras.

Read more info on sensors here.

The post Full Frame VS Crop Sensor VS Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.


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Sigma to take Foveon full frame and adopt L mount

26 Sep

Sigma has said it will create a full-frame Foveon camera and will adopt the Leica L mount for its system. Sigma will allow existing users to adapt or convert SA mount lenses to the L mount.

The full-frame L-mount Foveon will arrive in 2019, according to Sigma CEO Kazuto Yamaki. The company will produce its first native L-mount lenses in 2019, too.

He also said the company would not create any more cameras using its proprietary SA mount. However, existing SA-mount users will not be left out in the cold: the company will be able to convert some SA mount lenses to L mount. Those who want to retain SA compatibility will alternatively be able to use an SA-L mount adapter.

Sigma will also make a Canon EF to L mount adapter available, which will be interesting to Sigma, Leica and Panasonic users.

Foveon at full frame

The existing Sigma SD Quattro models required buyers to invest in a proprietary lens mount.

The move to full frame should offer further improvements to the image quality of the Foveon design, which interprets color by capturing light at three different depths in the sensor and then mathematically deriving which wavelengths are most likely to have reached each of these depths.

A larger chip won’t in itself reduce read noise or noise that stems from the color convolution: things that have hampered dynamic range and low light capability in previous Foveon chips. However, it should let the camera capture more light, which will reduce the impact of noise from other sources.

We were impressed with the performance in good light of the Sigma SD Quattro H, which used a larger-than-APS-C-sized APS-H sensor but were put off by the need to invest in proprietary lenses. The move to L mount, both as an end in itself and as a mount that allows DSLR lenses to be adapted to it, should ease these concerns.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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What would you want from a full frame Canon or Nikon mirrorless camera?

26 Jul

Nikon has finally confirmed the age-old rumor that its going to make a full frame mirrorless camera. It’s widely assumed Canon plans to do the same. But what are the things they need to get right?

We’re way beyond the point where the ‘mirrorless or DSLR’ question simply depends on whether size or autofocus is more important to you. But what are the other aspects of camera design and behavior that need to be in place for a camera to work for your photography?

We’d love to hear what you think, so please pick what would be the three most important factors for you. These needn’t be the things that would make you switch, just the things that they’d need to deliver, to make it even worth considering.

Or, if we’ve missed anything, mention it in the comments.

Have your say

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What are the most important things you'd want from a Canon or Nikon mirrorless camera?
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High resolution sensor

High speed shooting

Good quality video

Sports-ready AF system

Easy-to-use AF system

Lifelike viewfinder

Responsive controls and menus

Configurable controls/interface

Pro video features such as waveforms / 10-bit capture

Small, affordable primes

Fast primes

Tele zooms

Full compatibility / full performance with existing lenses

Lightweight

Compact size

Substantial grip

Good battery life

16-bit Raw

Top plate settings display

Dual card slots

Effective weather sealing

In-body stabilization

Voting is easy – you pick your favorite products by dragging and dropping. You can pick up to three, and rank them in order of priority.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Meike announces full frame 85mm F1.8, its first autofocus lens

21 Apr

Chinese accessories brand Meike has announced it will introduce an autofocus 85mm F1.8 lens for Canon and Nikon full-frame DSLRs. In addition to adding another (very likely) affordable third party option to the mix, this will be the company’s first AF lens.

Details are a little thin on the ground, but early marketing materials suggest it will be a lightweight and compact lens with an all-metal body construction. The optical formula will use nine elements in six groups, and all elements will be multi-coated on both sides. Close focus will begin at 0.85m with a maximum magnification of 1:1.8. The lens will be 79.5mm long and will accept a 67mm filter.

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In addition to the Nikon and Canon full-frame mounts, Meike will release the MK-85mm F1.8 lens for Sony APS-C models as well. No price has been announced as of yet, and the company hasn’t said when we should expect the lens to go on sale.

For more information visit the Meike website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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