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Posts Tagged ‘Four’

iZugar launches 220-degree super fisheye lens for Micro Four Thirds

23 Sep

Hong Kong-based company iZugar has just launched a pretty quirky, intense little lens.Called the MKX22, it’s a 3.25mm F2.5 super fisheye lens for Micro Four Thirds cameras that offers a whopping 220-degree angle of view.

This fisheye lens is said to offer “edge-to-edge sharpness” with suitability for 4K video recording, a 0.6m minimum focusing distance, fully circular 10mm design, and extra-slim build for better parallax control, according to iZugar. All of that in addition to that 220-degree angle of view that can more-or-less see behind itself.

The lens recently appeared for sale on iZugar’s website, where the company explains that the MKX22 can be used with the ZCam E1 – iZugar Custom Edition, Blackmagic Micro Studio 4K, Sony A7R2, Panasonic GX80, and similar cameras. For reference, the company offers a full reference guide showing FOV for these cameras at various resolutions.

The lens is available from iZugar now for $ 500.

Lens Specifications:

  • Model: iZugar MKX-22
  • Format: 10mm full circular
  • Mount: Micro Four Thirds mount (MFT)
  • 35mm Equivalent Focal Length: 3.25mm
  • Aperture: f/2.5 (fixed)
  • Minimum Focusing Distance: 0.6m
  • Lens Groups/Elements: 10/11
  • Angle of View (MFT-4k): 220 x 150

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Four common composition mistakes and what to do instead

19 Sep

When you’re first starting out, the great big world of photography composition can seem like a long list of rules and a bunch of videos where photographers paste grids on top of iconic photos. It’s all a bit abstract. So if you’re looking for concrete advice, this video by photographer Evan Ranft is a much better place to start.

In the video, Evan discusses four common composition mistakes many photographers make, and then shows you how to fix them. Each tip is accompanied by a very useful “do this not that” before and after, and the advice is genuinely a lot more helpful than slapping a bunch of grids and golden ratio spirals on top of famous photos.

You can check out the video up top for a full rundown with before and after images, but the tips (in short) are:

  1. Double Subject – Don’t place your main subject side-by-side with an interesting background feature, it will split your viewer’s focus. Emphasize a single subject instead.
  2. The Look Out – If your subject is on one side of your photograph, have them look into, not out of, the frame. A subject looking out of the frame divides your photo in half, leaving a bunch of confusing negative space. If they’re looking into the frame, their gaze will balance out your composition.
  3. Tangent Lines – Avoid having anything in your background draw lines through your subject and scene. Use the lines of your photo to lead your viewer’s eye TO your subject instead.
  4. Being Lazy – Not the most obvious composition tip, but it counts: don’t be lazy. Once you’ve picked a subject, find an interesting composition. Don’t just take the easiest, most convenient photo in that moment

There you go: a few simple but effective tips that help create photos that emphasize your subject and lead your viewer where you want them to go. As Ranft says in the video, these are easy mistakes to correct, you just have to be aware you’re doing them.

To see more tips and how-tos from Evan, head over to his YouTube channel. And if you have your own simple composition tip (or common mistake) to share, drop it in the comments!

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Four Ways to Use Snapshots in Lightroom

27 Aug

What’s Lightroom’s most underrated feature? If you ask five different photographers you’ll probably get at least six answers. But for me, it’s Snapshots.

Lightroom snapshots

Unused and unloved – that was the fate of Snapshots in my Lightroom workflow for many years. It’s taken me a long time to appreciate how useful they are. For most of that time, I used Virtual Copies when I needed to create different versions of the same photo. But now I use Snapshots, and it’s made life a lot easier.

Why use Snapshots in Lightroom?

Let’s look at why you would use Snapshots or Virtual Copies.

One of the benefits of a Raw file is that you can interpret the file in many different ways in Lightroom. The most obvious example is that you could create both a color version of an image and a black and white one.

How to use Snapshots in Lightroom

Two versions of the same photo created in Lightroom from the same Raw file.

There are so many different ways of developing a photo in Lightroom that’s easy to make multiple versions of the same image. Sometimes it’s difficult to know when to stop! Especially if you have a large collection of Develop Presets.

Snapshots are the easiest way to keep track of all the different versions you make of a photo.

What is a Snapshot?

A Snapshot captures all the work you have done on a photo at a particular point in a time.

Snapshots are related to the entries in the History panel. You can turn any entry in the History panel into a Snapshot by right-clicking and choosing, Create Snapshot. Snapshots save you time because you don’t have to go searching through the History panel for the point you’d like to revert to.

Lightroom Snapshots

Some of the History panel entries for a photo I developed in Lightroom. It’s nearly impossible to pick the correct entry if you want you to go back to an earlier version of the photo.

How to create a Snapshot

There are two ways to create a Snapshot.

1. Go to Develop > New Snapshot (or use the Cmd-N [Mac] / Ctrl-N [PC] keyboard shortcut.)

Lightroom creates a Snapshot from the current Develop module settings. You can give it a name or use the default (current date and time).

Lightroom Snapshots

2. Right-click on an entry in the History panel and choose, Create Snapshot. Lightroom creates a Snapshot from the settings applied to the photo at that point in the development history.

Lightroom Snapshots

Reasons to use Snapshots

Now you know how to create a Snapshot, let’s look at some ways you can use them.

1. To record where you are in the Develop module

When you’re developing photos in Lightroom you may find yourself arriving a point where you are about to go off in a different direction. For example, let’s say you want to make both a color and a black and white version of the same image. You might start off by developing it in color. When you are finished, you make a Snapshot.

Then, you can convert it to black and white. When you’re done, make another Snapshot. You can then switch between the two versions by clicking on the appropriate Snapshot. See what that might look like below.

Lightroom Snapshots

2. To test out Develop Presets

Let’s say you would like to apply some Develop Presets to your photo, but you are not sure which ones are best. For example, I often develop my portraits using my Vintage Portrait Presets for Lightroom. There are 30 presets in the pack, and I don’t know in advance which ones will work best.

Using Snapshots, you can go through the entire set. When you find a preset that you like, you can create a Snapshot quickly using the keyboard shortcut Cmd-N [Mac] / Ctrl-N [PC].

At the end, you will have several Snapshots. You can then click on them one by one to see which preset you prefer. For example, I applied five different Vintage Portrait Presets to this portrait and saved each as a Snapshot. In the end, I decided the Vintage 19 preset was my favorite.

Lightroom Snapshots

Tip: Rename the Snapshot you decide is the one you like best to something like “Preset name [final]” so you can remember which one it is. You can also delete the other Snapshots by right-clicking and choosing, Delete.

3. To make comparisons

There’s an easy way to compare two Snapshots to see which version you like best.

Start by right-clicking on the first Snapshot and selecting Copy Snapshot Settings to Before. Then click on the second Snapshot to apply it to the photo you are developing. Use the backslash (\) keyboard shortcut to switch between the before and current settings to make the comparison.

You can also cycle between the Before/After views by clicking the icon marked below in the Toolbar (use the T keyboard shortcut to display the Toolbar if you can’t see it).

Using the Before/After comparison to compare two Snapshots.

4. To take the place of Virtual Copies

At the beginning of the article, I mentioned that I use Snapshots instead of Virtual Copies. The main reason is that Virtual Copies are difficult to keep track of.

For example, let’s say you create four Virtual Copies of a photo, each one developed a different way. To start with, they are probably all in the same Collection. As time goes by you may create more Virtual Copies of the same photo. This is quite common – many photographers change the way they develop photos as their style evolves and Adobe adds new tools to Lightroom.

A problem arises when those new Virtual Copies are in different Collections to the originals. Suddenly you have a situation where Virtual Copies are scattered across your Catalog. That makes it nearly impossible to see how many Virtual Copies of a photo you have created.

Snapshots solve that problem. With Snapshots, there is only ever one version of your photo in the Catalog. You never have to go hunting for missing Virtual Copies. All you need to do to see the different versions of your photo is click on the Snapshot name.

Lightroom Snapshots

This photo has 9 Snapshots. If they were Virtual Copies instead it would be much harder to keep track of them.

Tip: What happens if you make a Snapshot and then update the settings? The Snapshot doesn’t change as it’s intended to record the state of a photo at the point in time you made it. But it’s easy to update the Snapshot. Just right-click on the Snapshot’s name and choose, Update with Current Settings.

Conclusion

Hopefully, now you can see why Snapshots are both useful and under-appreciated. If you have a problem with too many Virtual Copies in your Catalog then try using Snapshots instead to see if they solve your problem.

And of course, if you have any questions about using Snapshots in Lightroom then please let me know in the comments below.


If you’d like to learn more about Lightroom, including great tips like the one in this article, then please check out my popular Mastering Lightroom ebooks. You’ll be making the most of Lightroom in no time.

The post Four Ways to Use Snapshots in Lightroom by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Video: Four top-notch portrait photographers shoot the same model

18 Aug

There are two types of kind-of-clichéd photography challenges that are actually quite inspirational and informative: (1) A great photographer using a cheap camera, and (2) Several top-notch photographers shooting the same thing. This video by portrait shooter Jessica Kobeissi is a great example of the latter.

In the latest episode of her new series “4 photographers shoot the same model,” Kobeissi goes up against Joey L, Dani Diamond and Brandon Woelfel to see who can capture the most consistently great portraits of the same model—in this case, Charlotte McKee.

All four photographers get to pick one location and outfit, and the entire group has to shoot each of the scenarios. In practical terms, that means only one of the outfits and locations will be ‘familiar’ and ‘comfortable’ for each photographer. Oh, and you only get three minutes to shoot…

To see the final shots from each of the four photographer, check out the video up top. And then scroll down to reveal who shot each photograph:

Outfit 1
J.1 – Brandon
J.2 – Dani
J.3 – Jessica
J.4 – Joey

Outfit 2
D.1 – Jessica
D.2 – Brandon
D.3 – Joey
D.4 – Dani

Outfit 3
JL.1 – Dani
JL.2 – Joey
JL.3 – Brandon
JL.4 – Jessica

Outfit 4
B.1 – Jessica
B.2 – Joey
B.3 – Brandon
B.4 – Dani

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Venus Optics Laowa C-Dreamer 7.5mm F2 for Micro Four Thirds sample gallery

06 Aug

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Laowa is one of the brand names used by Chinese manufacturer Venus Optics. We previously encountered Laowa when we produced a sample gallery of the full-frame Zero-D 12mm F2.8 – a lens that claims zero distortion and has exceptionally well corrected barrelling for any focal length let alone one with such a dramatic angle of view. This 7.5mm F2 lens is designed for Micro Four Thirds cameras and makes no such distortion claims, but is one of the widest focal lengths for the system and certainly stands out for its combination of wide angle and wide maximum aperture.

The lens is small but weighty, its solidity lending it a feel of a product well made. It is actually very nice to use, focuses smoothly and its 46mm thread means filters can be used – with care. It is manual focus, with the infinity setting at the left of the scale as you look down from the shooting position. The aperture ring doesn’t unclick and offers the smallest space between the penultimate F16 and ultimate F22 settings. It has a depth of field scale marked on the barrel along with distances, but I’m unconvinced that either is especially useful.

These sample images have been made using the lens on the Panasonic Lumix DC-GH5.

See our Venus Laowa 7.5mm F2
sample gallery

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Four Common Myths About Full-Frame Cameras Dispelled

21 Jun

One of the beautiful things about modern digital photography is the astronomical degree of choice that is available to us. No matter whether you’re a professional photographer, a weekend warrior, or a casual enthusiast who just likes to take snapshots of your kids, your food, or your feet – there are dozens, even hundreds, of camera models and options to suit your needs. There are specialty cameras for recording extreme sports, underwater cameras for photographing the deep blue sea, and a slew of lenses available for DSLR and mirrorless cameras to suit any situation in which you might find yourself.

There are also some clear differentiating factors between these various options that make some cameras better suited to certain situations. One of the most common issues I see discussed is that of full-frame versus crop-sensor cameras. To help clear the air regarding this particular question I’d like to address four common myths about full-frame, with the goal of helping you choose a camera that suits your needs.

Four Common Myths About full-frame Cameras Addressed

Taken with a 10-year-old crop-sensor Nikon D200 and 50mm f/1.8 lens.

Myth #1: full-frame is better than crop-sensor

I see this myth being perpetuated all the time, particularly in online forums but also when talking to people in person. It’s a shame because it’s just not true. full-frame is certainly better in some aspects compared to crop-sensor cameras, but to declare that they are universally better is colossally misleading.

One analogy I like to use here is that of vehicles, particularly pickup trucks. A beast like the Ford F-150 is a fantastic and phenomenally well-rounded truck that excels at hauling, towing, and all the usual heavy-duty jobs for which one would typically buy such a vehicle. By comparison, the Toyota Tacoma is a smaller truck and not quite as powerful or capable, but actually beats its larger counterpart in some regards such as better gas mileage, smaller turning radius, and greater overall agility in a more urban environment.

Four Common Myths About full-frame Cameras Addressed

Taken with a full-frame Nikon D750 and 85mm f/1.8 lens. A crop-sensor camera would have worked, but would have required me to be farther back in order to get this same composition and there was simply not enough space in the room to do so.

Different not necessarily better

Neither truck is objectively better; both are well suited to the specific needs of the people who purchase them. The same is true for cameras in that full-frame cameras work very well in many regards. But to say they are better negates some of the unique advantages of smaller crop-sensor cameras.

full-frame models, as a rule, have strengths like greater high ISO capabilities, improved dynamic range, and improved build quality. If these things are important to you, then a full-frame camera might suit your needs. However, smaller and less expensive crop-sensor cameras have some unique advantages as well such as:

  • Autofocus points that reach farther out to the edges of the viewfinder.
  • Faster shutter sync speeds.
  • Longer reach—a 200mm lens on a crop-sensor camera is basically like shooting with a 300mm lens on a full-frame camera.
  • Generally less expensive.

These are all generalizations, of course, and there are always exceptions to the rule. But suffice it to say that just because full-frame cameras exist doesn’t mean you need to get one.

Four Common Myths About full-frame Cameras Addressed

Taken with a crop-sensor Nikon D7100, 50mm lens, and +10 close-up filter.

Myth #2: Shooting full-frame will improve your photography

This is a myth that’s closely related to GAS, or Gear Acquisition Syndrome – a condition that plagues many photographers and often causes them to continually buy more cameras, lenses, and accessories in the hopes that these things will help improve their photography. Getting a full-frame camera will certainly allow you to take advantage of the unique benefits that they offer, but it will by no means do anything to actually improve the quality of your photographs.

No matter what camera you have, whether it’s a mobile phone, pocket camera, or crop-sensor DSLR, the best thing you can do to make yourself a better photographer is to learn more about photography, not spend money on new gear. In fact, sticking with the gear you have and learning to work within its limitations can have a profound impact on your photography and go quite a long way towards helping you improve.

Four Common Myths About full-frame Cameras Addressed

Taken with a full-frame Nikon D750 and 50mm lens, but it was years of learning about composition, lighting, and other photographic principles that helped me get this shot.

To extend the vehicle metaphor just a bit, buying a Formula 1 car will not automatically make you a better driver. Certainly, it will allow you to have access to the unique capabilities of such a fine automobile. But simply parking an F1 racecar in your driveway will in no way upgrade your own ability to operate a motor vehicle. Some photographers mistakenly think that purchasing a full-frame camera will give their photography a boost. But in truth, it’s the day-in-day-out work of practicing the fundamentals of photography like composition, lighting, color, contrast, etc., that will lead to improvements.

Myth #3 Full-frame is too expensive for casual photographers

If you do decide that you want to invest in full-frame gear, you can take solace in the fact that price is no longer the barrier to entry that it once was. The first full-frame camera was the Canon 5D, which came out in August 2005 and cost about $ 3500 USD, which made it prohibitively expensive for all but the most dedicated professionals and ardent enthusiasts. Crop-sensor cameras were far cheaper, making them the default solution for many photographers around the world. To this day they remain a perfectly viable option for almost any type of photography.

However, as prices have gone down over the years it is now much more feasible to purchase full-frame gear compared to days gone by. New full-frame cameras such as the Nikon D610 or Canon 6D are about $ 1400-1500 (at the time of writing this) and can often be found on sale, which is a steal compared to just a few years ago. And while more expensive models such as the Canon 1DX Mark II or Nikon D5 can easily cost as much as a used car, you certainly don’t need those high-end models to take advantage of many of the benefits of shooting full-frame.

Four Common Myths About full-frame Cameras Addressed

Taken with a full-frame Nikon D750 and 70-200 f/2.8 lens. I could have taken a similar shot with a crop-sensor camera and different lens, but I specifically wanted the wide aperture of this lens and the control over depth of field offered by the D750.

Another benefit of the passing of time is that full-frame cameras which were cutting-edge a few years ago are significantly cheaper in price now that they have been replaced by newer models. Consider the Canon 5D Mark II, a camera which is so good it was used to film the season finale of the TV show House in 2010. While it can’t match the blistering high ISO performance and other tricks of its newer counterpart, it’s still a phenomenal camera and can be found used online for much cheaper than the shiny new models.

Myth #4 All serious photographers will eventually go full-frame

Friends and family members often ask me for advice when it comes to buying cameras and camera gear, and this used to be somewhat precarious territory due to the understanding that real photographers always ended up buying full-frame cameras. Thus, advising someone to buy a crop-sensor camera was to tread on dangerous ground because in a few years that person might realize his or her gear is a second-class citizen in the world of photography and it would have been better had a full-frame model been purchased from the start. Thankfully nowadays, as Princess Leia said to Han Solo at the end of Return of the Jedi, “It’s not like that at all.”

Four Common Myths About full-frame Cameras Addressed

Taken with a crop-sensor Nikon D7100 and 50mm f/1.8 lens.

Sensor technology in cameras today is so good that you can shoot professional photos whether you have full-frame, crop-sensor, medium format, micro-four-thirds, or in some cases even just a mobile phone. Camera gear is not the limiting factor it once was. So while many professionals certainly like to shoot full-frame, there is a growing number who prefer the features, size, convenience, and price of smaller models especially in the world of mirrorless cameras like the Olympus OM-D EM1 Mark II or Panasonic GH5.

If you have specific needs that are not being met by your crop-sensor camera then it may be a good idea to consider a full-frame camera. But otherwise, the gear you have is probably good enough and you’d be better off investing your money in lenses, lighting, and education rather than a new camera body.

Four Common Myths About full-frame Cameras Addressed

Taken with a full-frame Nikon D750 and 50mm f/1.8 lens. Why that particular setup? Honestly, I just like how that camera feels in my hands and I enjoy using it.

Conclusion

I’d like to hear from you, the DPS community, on this one. What type of camera gear do you shoot with, and is there any way in which you find it to be limiting? Do you shoot with full-frame and if so, what do you like about it? Are you content using crop-sensor cameras?

For the record, I personally use both crop-sensor and full-frame cameras and have specific purposes for both. But it’s always interesting to hear from other photographers on subjects like this. Leave your thoughts in the comments below.

The post Four Common Myths About Full-Frame Cameras Dispelled by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Sigma offers firmware updates for four Canon mount lenses

19 May

Sigma has released new firmware for Canon mount versions of four of its lenses:

  • 17-70mm F2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM | Contemporary Canon
  • 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS HSM | Contemporary Canon
  • 18-300mm F3.5-6.3 DC MACRO OS HSM | Contemporary Canon
  • 24-105mm F4 DG OS HSM | Art Canon

According to Sigma, the new firmware improves the AF accuracy of the lenses when used with the Sigma Mount Converter MC-11, as well as decreasing the lens diaphragm blades noise when using the aforementioned converter.

The same AF accuracy improvement and decreased noise also apply to the lenses when they are used with Canon EOS DSLRs while shooting video or while in Live Mode. Finally, Sigma says these lenses are now compatible with the Canon Digital Cinema Camera EOS C300 Mark II. 

Sigma lens owners with the Sigma USB Dock must first update the Sigma Optimization Pro software to, at minimum, version 1.4.1 (Windows) or version 1.4.0 (Mac) before installing the new firmware.

The full Sigma changelog is below:

Benefits of this firmware update

  • It has improved the AF accuracy when the lens is attached with the SIGMA MOUNT CONVERTER MC-11.
  • ?It is necessary to use the SIGMA USB DOCK for Canon ver.1.02 or later to update the firmware.
  • ? For customers who own SIGMA MOUNT CONVERTER MC-11 EF-E, it is necessary to update this to the latest firmware ver. 1.05.
  • It has reduced the operating sound of the lens diaphragm blades when attached with the SIGMA MOUNT CONVERTER MC-11 EF-E and used for video shooting.
  • It has improved the AF accuracy when the lens is used for video shooting as well as with Live View mode of EOS DIGITAL SLR cameras.*1
  • It has reduced the operating sound of the lens diaphragm blades when the lens is used for video shooting on EOS DIGITAL SLR cameras. *1
  • It has become compatible with the Canon Digital Cinema Camera EOS C300 Mark II.
  • *1 The degree of improvement may differ depending on the camera used.

Via: Sigma

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Viltrox launches lens adapters for Sony E-Mount and Micro Four Thirds cameras

10 May

Hong Kong based manufacturer Viltrox has announced three new electronic lens adapters for Sony E mount and Micro Four Thirds cameras. The NF-E1 model lets you use Nikon Nikon F mount lenses on Sony E mount cameras. The EF-M1 and EF-M2 models let you connect Canon EF and EF-S lenses to your Micro Four Thirds camera.

The latter comes with with four optical elements in four groups. According to the manufacturer this design results in a, compared to the EF-M1, one stop faster aperture and a focal length multiplier of 0.71x.

All adapters are made of metal and come with a USB port for firmware updates and gold-plated electronic contacts. Autofocus and aperture-adjustment from the camera are supported and Viltrox says the EF-models are compatible with all Canon EF lenses. Pricing and retail information have not yet been released. 

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Venus Optics announces spec and price for 7.5mm F2 Micro Four Thirds lens

02 May

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Chinese optical manufacturer Anhui ChangGeng Optical Technology Company Limited, or Venus Optics, has released more details of a forth-coming lens it claims will be the widest rectilinear F2 for the Micro Four Thirds system. The Laowa 7.5mm F2 MFT was first seen at Photokina last year, and will offer the 110° angle of view we’d expect from a 15mm lens on a full-frame camera and will be available in two versions – a standard model that will weigh 200g / 7oz and a lightweight model that will tip the scales at 150g / 5.3oz.

Both versions of the lens will feature 13 elements in 9 groups and will use a pair of aspheric elements and three in extra-low dispersion glass. The company has stopped short of using the ‘Zero-D’ designation it applies to the Laowa 12mm F2.8 and its previously announced 15mm F2, but does claim to have minimized distortion, as well as chromatic aberrations.

The 7.5mm lens will have a 46mm filter thread, a closest focusing distance of 12cm / 4.7in, a 7-bladed iris and will be 55mm long. The lightweight version has been designed with drones in mind, will use lighter metals than the standard version and will cost $ 519 plus tax instead of $ 499. Black or silver options are available. The standard model will be shipping this month with the lightweight model following in July. For more full specification and pre-order information visit the Venus Optics website.

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Press release

Venus Optics announces the Laowa 7.5mm f/2 MFT, the World’s Widest f/2 Lens for Micro Four Thirds Camera

Featuring a 110° Angle of View, Ultra-fast f/2 aperture, 46mm filter thread& less than 200g in weight

Venus Optics, the camera lenses manufacturer who had previously launched a number of unique Laowa camera lenses, is proud to announce the world’s widest rectilinear f/2 lens for Micro Four Thirds cameras, Laowa 7.5mm f/2 MFT.

The Laowa 7.5mm f/2 MFT is currently the widest f/2 rectilinear lens ever designed for Micro Four Thirds Cameras. It is an ultra-wide & ultra-fast prime lens with a 35mm equivalent focal length of 15mm. Despite the extreme specifications, Venus Optics has successfully minimized the weight of the lens to less than 200g (0.44 pounds) and 55mm long. This compact and light lens comprises of 13 elements in 9 groups with 2 pcs of aspherical elements and 3 pcs of Extra-low dispersion elements. This optical design successfully minimizes the distortion and chromatic aberrations to its lowest but at the same time, delivers a superb optical performance from corners to corners.

The extreme 110° angle of view and ultra-fast f/2 aperture allows photographers to create impressive astro-photography shots with ease. It also gives photographers a fast and wide-angle option for landscape photography and low-light shooting. The lens is designed with a 46mm filter thread which can gives additional portability for screw-in filters.

Venus Optics also introduce a lightweight version for this lens and controlled the weight to merely 150g. The feather-light weight opens up a new opportunity for photographers and pilots to shoot wider footage with gimbals and drones.

Availability
The Laowa 7.5mm f/2 MFT is currently available to pre-order in the official website of Venus Optics (http://www.venuslens.net/) and their authorized resellers. It comes with 2 colors, Black and Silver. Recommended Retail Price in US (without tax) is USD 499/pc for standard version and USD 519/pc for Lightweight version. Pricing may vary in different countries.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Boxfish 360 Micro Four Thirds camera can record 5K spherical videos

11 Apr

Boxfish Research has announced the launch of its new Boxfish 360, a 5K camera equipped with multiple Panasonic Micro Four Thirds sensors able to capture spherical photos and video. This model is designed for professional use and, according to the company, offers better clarity and colors than similar 360-degree rigs created using multiple action cameras. The camera made its debut at CES 2017.

Boxfish 360 features 185-degree circular fisheye lenses with an F1.8 maximum aperture, an internal battery offering up to 90 minutes of recording per charge and both 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch mounting threads. Though the cameras are secured within a fully waterproof housing, Boxfish Research says the battery and microSD cards (up to six supported) can be quickly accessed without using tools via a hatch.

Videos are recorded using the H.264 codec with a bit rate of 60Mbps, and still images are saved as JPGs and DNGs. Boxfish 360 offers up to a claimed 10 stops of dynamic range and records camera metrics such as water temperature, water depth and camera orientation during recording. Operators are given various elements of control, such as underwater start/stop and manual aperture control. 

Boxfish released the camera for preorder last week and will begin shipping the next batch starting May 15. Interested buyers can pay a 50% balance of the $ 14,990 USD price tag to secure a unit, or buyers can pay outright ahead of the shipment date. A total of ten cameras are offered in the next batch, some of which are already reserved.

Via: Boxfish Research

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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