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Three things I love about the Pixel 3 and one that I don’t

24 Mar

The Google Pixel 3 has been my primary camera – and media consumption device, alarm clock, etc. – for over a month now. It will be no surprise to anyone that I’m finding the camera to be really, really good, but there are a few features in particular that stand out to me as excellent. In no particular order, here’s what I’m liking so far about the Pixel 3’s camera, and one area I’m not as crazy about.

Night Sight

You’ve heard all the hype about how good Night Sight is, and it’s true. Night Sight will allow you to take usable photos in incredibly dim conditions. I think the best compliment I can give Night Sight is that the example image above doesn’t convey just how dark the scene in my shot was. The Mexican restaurant looks pleasantly bright and festive – in reality, it was extremely dim (but still festive).

Night Sight is also a great alternative for low-light selfies when flash is a no-no, if everyone in the shot can stay reasonably still. Pro tip: don’t blink or move your eyes or it’ll make you look a little bit like a zombie. In any case, it’s really nice to have a usable alternative to completely destroying the vibe of a mood-lit bar with a smartphone flash.

Finally, Night Sight is also useful for static subjects in any kind of lighting if you want to capture more detail, thanks to its use of Super Resolution (more on that here). The rendering of *individual fibers* in the blanket in the shot above blows my mind. Getting that level of detail out of such a small sensor is a real technological innovation.

Wide angle selfie

We’re weird, okay?

This was a feature I didn’t expect to use much, but it’s really helpful when you need it. I’ve used it on a couple of occasions when there was something in the background I wanted to get into the photo I was taking.

In both cases I considered the shot that I wanted, thought to myself there was no way that I could get the shot, then remembered the wide-angle front facing camera. Boom. Problem solved.

Portrait Mode

Portrait Mode is of course, not new, but it’s been further improved in the Pixel 3. Google used machine learning to train the camera to better ‘cut out’ things like human subjects. We find that it does a better job with human hair than the iPhone (you can see how the iPhone does here), creating a more realistic effect rather than something that looks obviously digitally manipulated.

The ability to throw a busy background out of focus – even if the overall effect isn’t 100% convincing – is still better to me than the alternative.

As a side note, my personal smartphone is an “ancient” iPhone SE, which doesn’t offer Portrait Mode. I’ve gotten pretty attached to it shooting with the Pixel 3, and many of my favorite images taken with the camera are Portrait Mode shots. To me, it feels a little bit like Wi-Fi on traditional cameras. When the feature was introduced it was a little gimmicky and not all that useful, but now that it’s reliable and much improved, it’s becoming something I don’t want to live without.

Muted color rendition


Out of camera JPEG	“Auto” edits applied in Google Photos

The thing I’m not as crazy about is more a matter of personal taste – the Pixel 3 tends toward more muted, natural colors. Plenty of people will prefer that, but I’m partial to a little more warmth and punch in my images. Colors are a little flat for my taste, and in some instances (backlit subjects are a big one) auto exposure doesn’t quite get things right.

In spite of this, I think the greatest testament to the Pixel 3 is that I’ve been taking more pictures lately. When I’m out and about and see a photo, I don’t have to talk myself out of taking a picture because I only have my phone with me. More often than not, I’m finding that I *can* get that photo, or something close to what I envisioned.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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PSA: Don’t film laser tattoo removals unless you too want to fry a $2,200 camera

10 Mar

Laser systems used at concerts and even self-driving cars are known for damaging camera sensors, but now there’s one more thing to add to the list — tattoo laser removal lasers, even when the laser isn’t being pointed directly at the camera.

As unfortunately demonstrated in the 37-second video above, Andy Boyd destroyed the sensors inside his $ 2,200 Sony a7S II when he was filming a laser tattoo removal.

In the video description, he writes:

‘Hot tip: Don’t record laser tattoo removal on…anything. You can see with each pulse the sensor shows new damage. The repair cost was about as much as a new camera so try to avoid this. Club lasers can do this too but we’d never seen the reflection of a laser beam do damage, only when the beam itself hits the sensor.’

Hopefully you’re never in a situation where you’re asked to film a tattoo removal — especially one that reads ‘I am juicy’ with a strawberry next to it — but in the event you are, either use a camera you don’t mind destroying or pass up the opportunity as a whole.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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This website uses AI to generate portraits of people who don’t actually exist

16 Feb

A new website called This Person Does Not Exist went viral this week, and it has one simple function: displaying a portrait of a random person each time the page is refreshed. The website is pointless at first glance, but there’s a secret behind its seemingly endless stream of images. According to a Facebook post detailing the website, the images are generated using a generative adversarial networks (GANs) algorithm.

In December, NVIDIA published research detailing the use of style-based GANs (StyleGAN) to generate very realistic portraits of people who don’t exist. The same technology is powering This Person Does Not Exist, which was created by Uber software engineer Phillip Wang to ‘raise some public awareness for this technology.’

In his Facebook post, Wang said:

Faces are most salient to our cognition, so I’ve decided to put that specific pretrained model up. Their research group have also included pretrained models for cats, cars, and bedrooms in their repository that you can immediately use.

Each time you refresh the site, the network will generate a new facial image from scratch from a 512 dimensional vector.

Generative adversarial networks were first introduced in 2014 as a way to generate images from datasets, but the resulting content was less than realistic. The technology has improved drastically in only a few years, with major breakthroughs in 2017 and again last year with NVIDIA’s introduction of StyleGAN.

This Person Does Not Exist underscores the technology’s growing ability to produce life-like images that, in many cases, are indistinguishable from portraits of real people.

As described by NVIDIA last year, StyleGAN can be used to generate more than just portraits. In the video above, the researchers demonstrate the technology being used to generate images of rooms and vehicles, and to modify ‘fine styles’ in images, such as the color of objects. Results were, in most cases, indistinguishable from images of real settings.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Apple launches its 2019 ‘Shot on iPhone’ contest, but don’t forget to read the fine print

24 Jan

Shot on iPhone 6s by Mariko Klug.

Apple is launching its 2019 ‘Shot on iPhone’ photo contest by inviting iPhone photographers to submit their best photographs shot on an Apple device. Photos can be submitted from now to February 7th and will be judged by an impressive panel including photographer Pete Souza and Annet de Graaf, as well as Apple’s VP of Marketing Phil Schiller and head of camera software team Jon McCormack. Apple says winning images will be featured on billboards in select cities, Apple retail stores and online.

Shot on iPhone 6 by Mandy Blake.

To participate you can post images on Instagram or Twitter using the hashtag #ShotOniPhone. In the image caption you should note which iPhone model it was captured with. Alternatively images can be submitted by emailing them in full resolution to shotoniphone@apple.com with the file format ‘firstname_lastname_iphonemodel.’ Photos can be straight out of the camera or edited.

If you’re thinking about submitting your photos you should probably have a look at official rules on the Apple website, to make sure you know what participation in the contest means for your images. Photographers are essentially handing over exclusive commercial ownership of their images in exchange for photo credit. In a post on Reddit, photographer Trevor Mahlmann shared his thoughts on the campaign and the issues he noticed with the fine print.

Shot on iPhone 7 by Erdem Summak.

In the fine print Apple says: ‘you retain your rights to your photograph; however, by submitting your photo, you grant Apple a royalty-free, world-wide, irrevocable, non-exclusive license for one year to use, modify, publish, display, distribute, create derivative works from and reproduce the photo on Apple Newsroom, apple.com, Twitter, Instagram, in Apple retail stores, Weibo, WeChat, on billboards and any Apple internal exhibitions. Any photograph reproduced will include a photographer credit.’

The company goes on to say: ‘If your photo is selected to be featured on a billboard, you further agree to grant Apple exclusive commercial use of the photo for the life of the license.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Blur and Creative Photography – Why Your Images Don’t Need To Be 100% Sharp

06 Nov

Blur and creative photography – Why your images don’t need to be 100% sharp all of the time.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 1

I have an image of a blueberry shot on the end of a spoon with my macro lens. It has a very narrow depth of field (DOF). Only the front of the blueberry is in focus. The rest has a lovely soft blur.

The first comment when I posted it on Facebook was ‘it would look better if it were all in focus.’

No.

There is a perception amongst some photographers who are very invested in the technicalities of shooting, that absolutely every image has to be 100% sharp. While it is an entirely valid choice – and I fully support the decision to shoot their images that way – it is not the ‘only’ choice.

For those of us who want to explore different creative styles, have fun with different lenses and push the boundaries of what photography can allow us to do in creating art, there are plenty of alternatives.

NOTE: To clarify, sometimes an image ‘just is’ out of focus for whatever reason. This article addresses the photographers deliberate creative choice to use softness or blur in a picture. It may be a subtle difference for some, but it is a difference.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 2

Beyond Bokeh

It amuses me that many photographers believe all images ‘must be tack sharp.’ Still, they are out there taking photos of birds, portraits or wedding shots with very soft blurred bokeh backgrounds. However, the reasons they do so are perfectly valid.

Some photographers do so to:

soften a distracting background
bring the subject into prominence
make it aesthetically pleasing
give depth and 3D feel to the image

But for bokeh to work well, you need to have some specific elements present and happening. Such as decent quality lenses, a lot of distance behind the subject to the background, and good soft light. Not every shoot offers those situations, nor can everyone afford the best lens.

What if we want even more softness in our image, including the subject? Maybe we want the background sharp, and the subject blurred – a technique often used in some street photography styles.

What about ICM – Intentional Camera Movement? Or Wabi-Sabi, the Japanese/Zen aesthetic of the beauty of imperfection.

There are so many other ways to see the world and present our images with our unique creative viewpoint. If that means smearing stuff on a filter in front of your lens, then smear-away :).

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 3

Learn To Love the Blur

Bring your hand as close to your face as you can, so you can still focus on it. What happens to the background? If you shift focus to the background instead, your hand blurs.

Distant mountains are blurred as we physically cannot focus clearly that far away.

So its natural for blur to be present in our images. Therefore if we choose to use it more creatively to give our pictures a different feel or mood, we are enhancing a natural element in our world.

Painters can represent a tree in different ways depending on their technique and style. It may be rendered beautifully with every leaf painted as an individual element. It may have stark lines representing a trunk and branches, or colorful blobs in the background.

Photography can be playful, creative, stylistic and artistic as well. We can allow ourselves to love blur.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 4

Intentional camera movement is popular with stands of trees, soft beach scenes, and fields of flowers. To enhance it, even more, some people stretch plastic film in front of the lens. Or wrap it around the front leaving a small opening to shoot through.

I know flower/macro photographers who wrap gauze fabric around the front of their lens for an alternative soft effect and to add some color as well. Stretching pantyhose across the front of the lens is also cheap and effective.

Smearing petroleum jelly on a filter screwed to the front of the lens is reasonably common for an effective soft blur effect.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 5

Lens Choices

Lenses with an F stop of 2.8 to 1.4 give a very narrow depth of field, which highlights the subject and softens the background. Macro lenses are excellent for this effect.

Many portrait and wedding photographers will have an 85mm portrait lens with an F-stop in this range. Often specifically used to blur the background for a nice effect.

Lensbaby are well known for their special effect lenses. Their lenses offer lots of creative blur effects. The ‘Composer’ range allows you to select a specific point in the image to be in focus while softening the remainder. The ‘Twist’ range gives a swirly bokeh effect in the background, and there are other options too.

‘Helios’ and ‘Vivitar’ vintage lenses are experiencing a renaissance in popularity. They have many creative bokeh effects (including the swirl style) and are quite cheap in comparison to Lensbaby. They are vintage manual-focus lenses and may need a specialist mount to attach to your modern camera, but can they can be purchased at very affordable prices.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 6

Vintage ‘Helios’ lens gives very swirly bokeh blur in this image

Have Fun

For some people, it can be scary to let go of the need for sharpness and embrace the softer side. Other people sit happily in that place and rarely shoot a classically sharp shot.

There is room within photography as a creative medium for us to be artistic. To let go of the perceived rules, relax and have some fun doing something different.

Yes, some effects are niche, and you may not want to use them all the time. But you wouldn’t use a Fish-Eye lens every day either.

Having a range of choices gives you much more scope to shoot differently, add your unique take on an image. Using different lenses can help us see the world in new exciting ways and open up opportunities to create memorable images.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 7

Ways to Play

1. Bokeh

Bokeh relates to the quality and smoothness of your blurred background when you shoot the subject with a shallow depth of field. Different lenses give a varied type of bokeh. Usually, the better quality fast primes or macro lenses have the smoothest, most pleasing bokeh.

Bokeh happens when the subject is closer to the camera than it is to the background. Shooting wide open, i.e., F2.8 to F1.2 will give maximum blur of the background.

So try to shoot your subjects wide open with a narrow depth of field. With the background further away from them, you will achieve the nice soft blur.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 8

2. Selective Focus

When you combine a narrow depth of field, such as F2.8, with selecting a specific part of the subject, it will soften everything else in the image.

Doing so creates a lovely effect with flowers and macro imagery.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 9

3. Shoot Through

Place something in front of the lens to add some level of softness. It can either completely cover the lens or be wrapped around it to only soften the edges.

You can use:

nylons stretched across the lens
gauzy fabric wrapped around the lens
plastic film across or wrapped around the lens
filters smeared with petroleum jelly
hold fabric or flowers in front of part of the lens to add softness (common in flower photography)

4. ICM (Intentional Camera Movement)

Intentional Camera Movement is when the camera is deliberately moved during the shutter opening and closing to add blur to the image. A neutral density filter can assist with giving you a slightly longer shutter speed if shooting in daylight.

You may have seen this used in shots of forests with vertical stands of tree trunks.

5. Vintage Lenses

Try purchasing ‘Helios’ or ‘Vivitar’ Lenses (or other options) and related mounts for your camera. Many of these lenses have unexpected visual effects (sometimes seen as a fault) but can be used effectively for creative shots.

6. Specialty Lenses

Lensbaby offers a range of lens solutions to give you a variety of soft effects.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 10

Lensbaby Velvet 56 at F1.8 is very soft and adds a glamour effect

7. Filters

Soft Focus filters get screwed in front of your lens and are useful in portrait and glamour work. Otherwise, many people mimic this effect in post-processing via Photoshop.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 12

Conclusion

For those who strive to have every image as sharp as possible, continue with your efforts. If you who want more variation, flexibility, and creativity in your work, there is space to play and create that style of an image too.

It doesn’t have to be expensive. The vintage lenses can be bought online for under $ 100 (depending on freight and exchange rates).

Give yourself permission to relax, experiment and play, and create something unique!

Come over to the soft side. We like it here!

Share your images with us in the comments below.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 13

The post Blur and Creative Photography – Why Your Images Don’t Need To Be 100% Sharp appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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Photokina 2018: Sony interview – ‘I don’t care about competitors, I care about customers’

19 Oct

Kenji Tanaka, VP and Senior General Manager of Sony’s Business Unit 1, Digital Imaging Group, pictured at the Photokina trade show in Cologne, Germany last month.

At last month’s Photokina trade show in Cologne, Germany we made time to speak to senior executives from several major manufacturers, including Sony. In a broad-ranging conversation, Kenji Tanaka talked to us about competition in the full-frame mirrorless market, the value of APS-C, and future plans for the a7S lineup.

Is there a customer group that you feel you could reach more effectively?

There are many customers in the field of photography, and we want to create products for all of them. Recently, we launched products for sports photographers. That’s just one example. One by one, we want to expand.

What is Sony doing that’s unique?

We are the world’s largest manufacturer of image sensors, and have developed many unique sensors. Looking at the Alpha 9, the stacked CMOS sensor is a good example of both a unique and innovative product. These kinds of things are a strength compared to our competitors.

But the stacked image sensor in the Alpha 9 is kind of like the engine in a formula 1 car. If you only had the engine, the car wouldn’t work. You also need good tires, a good chassis, and a good driver to control the machine.

Our vision is […] to expand the market

How do new competitive full-frame mirrorless cameras affect your planning?

I welcome the shift in the market. Our vision is not to move the customer [from DSLR to mirrorless], it is to expand the market.

I don’t know what the impact of [Canon and Nikon entering the full-frame mirrrorless market] will be but we remain focused on creating new customers. That is our priority. Honestly speaking, I don’t care about competitors, I care about the customers. If customers need more functionality, or more quality, we’ll try to do it.

The Sony a7 III is a high-performance full-frame mirrorless interchangeable lens camera aimed at enthusiast photographers and videographers. According to Mr Tanaka, Sony is more interested in expanding the market than in responding to what his competitors are doing.

Is there anything that surprised you about the announcements from your competitors?

No, not really. I already predicted that Canon and Nikon would join the market, and even Panasonic. It wasn’t a surprise to me. But thinking about innovation in cameras, every company should join the mirrorless market, as this is where there is the most opportunity to innovate.

There are five fundamentals to mirrorless – lens, image quality, speed, battery life – some of our competitors especially struggle with that one – and compactness and light weight. These are areas that everyone is trying to improve, but right now I think Sony is in a good position.

Do you see any customer demand for sensors larger than full frame?

Right now there are a lot of things still to do with full-frame sensors, so at the moment I don’t have any ideas about starting work on new larger imaging sensors.

Sony’s 24mm F1.4 G Master is an impressively compact, but stunningly sharp full-frame wideangle prime lens. On Sony’s APS-C cameras, it offers an equivalent focal length of 36mm.

We’ve been enjoying using your 24mm F1.4 G Master lens. Do you have plans to create more, smaller, lenses in this lineup?

Of course, yes. Some customers want small size as well as high quality, so that’s one of our targets.

Do you have any plans to release new APS-C lenses?

Yes, APS-C is a big market for us. Recently most of our new lenses have been full frame, but APS-C remains a key target.

What are the advantages of APS-C?

Mobility, and ease of use.

The APS-C market is very important for us, […] but we need to ask customers what kind of models they want.

What is your long-term strategy for APS-C and will we ever see another NEX-7 equivalent camera with dual dials ?

We have to get customer feedback. The dual dial on the NEX-7, some customers appreciated it, but some customers didn’t. The APS-C market is very important for us, so we will create new models in the APS-C market, but we need to ask customers what kind of models they want.

Do you think APS-C could be a professional format for Sony in the future?

Professionals have many cameras. Of course, full-frame is usually their main camera, but for a long time, they’ve also used APS-C as their second camera, so of course, APS-C cameras for professional use must exist.

Will we ever see another ‘professional’ APS-C camera from Sony, in the mold of the erstwhile NEX-7? According to Mr Tanaka, the strengths of APS-C are size and weight, and ease of use. But professionals do use APS-C cameras as ‘second’ bodies.

Do you have a different design approach for APS-C and full-frame lenses?

No. Our strategy is unique – one single mount. For example, future APS-C customers might use our G-Master 24mm F1.4. So our lens design should be consistent for all types of models.

Do a lot of your APS-C customers buy full-frame lenses?

Yes.

Some Sony shooters tell us they want improved weather-sealing. Is that something that you’re working on?

Yes, of course. We’ve heard from many customers. We’re trying.

Someday the a7 III will come down in price and it’ll be easy to buy for anybody

Do you think the price of full-frame mirrorless cameras needs to come down, to make them more accessible?

I can’t speak about pricing strategy, but if we want to increase the number of customers, of course some will accept cameras in the $ 2000-3000 range, but others won’t. Recently, our a7 II was priced at around $ 1000. So I think our customers are pleased with our wide price range in full-frame.

Someday the a7 III will come down in price and it’ll be easy to buy for anybody. A lot of customers want the a7 III, but it will take time.

Why is Sony sticking to SD memory cards?

Memory card performance is related to image processing speed. Right now, processing speed is slower than SD UHS-II, so using SD is OK. But in the future, for example in any camera with 8K/30p video, SD won’t be enough. But for right now, SD is OK. Recently we announced SD ‘tough’ cards, for professionals that need more durability.

Why do your cameras use two card slots?

There are a lot of use cases for dual card slots. For example using one card as backup, or one for JPEG and one for Raw. Dual card slots are very useful to the customer, we think. Some customers are OK with just one card, but from our research we think that many people will want two slots.

The Sony E-mount is ‘open’, to the extent that other lens manufacturers can apply to use the standard. Sigma’s 70mm F2.8 Macro is one of a growing range of lenses from third-party manufacturers that are available in FE mount-compatible versions.

How important are third-party lens manufacturers to your long-term growth?

As you know, the E mount is an open mount. And of course competition will happen. If the customer can choose between many high quality lenses, that is a good thing.

Can you describe your relationship with third-party lens manufacturers?

We have a contract, and if a lens manufacturer wants to create an E-mount lens, they apply to Sony. Then we disclose the specification to that manufacturer. Sony does not approve lens designs, we just disclose the mount specification.

We’re planning a future a7S model right now, but it will take time.

4K is becoming a standard across all categories now, and the a7S II is getting rather old. Are you still interested in this market segment?

Of course, yes. Our a7S II customers want to create many things, and to meet their demands we are thinking about creating a successor model. But the next model should of course be more than they expect. So we’re planning a future S model right now, but it will take time.

What do your existing a7S II customers want to see improved?

They want 4K/60p, 4:2:2 10-bit, and of course more battery power, increased AF accuracy – many things!

The Sony a7S II is aimed at videographers, but in the three years since its release, its capabilities have in some respects been superseded by more conventional a7-series cameras, and the a9. According to Mr Tanaka, an a7S III is on its way, possibly offering 4K/60p, but ‘it will take time’.

Do you think it’s necessary for the a7S II successor to be a hybrid camera, or could it be a dedicated video model?

In my personal experience, the a7S II is a good stills camera. The pixels are very large, so the dynamic range is very wide. There is demand for still camera features I think.

You’ve said that artificial intelligence will play more of a role in future Sony cameras. Can you elaborate on that?

I can’t give you an exact answer, but we feel that AI is useful for many customers. Currently we’re planning upgrades to existing models, and of course future models that will contain new AI features.

Cameras should support creators. Focusing on eyes or focusing on other shapes is a very complex action. Photographers just want to think about composition, or capturing a moment. So I want to remove the need for focus manipulation, or other manipulation. When it comes to autofocus, Sony is very dedicated to developing AI.

Editor’s note: Barnaby Britton

Our meeting with Mr Tanaka last month followed Canon and Nikon’s long-awaited entry into the full-frame mirrorless market, after five years during which Sony effectively had the field to itself. When I spoke to him in Japan earlier this year, Mr Tanaka predicted that both companies would make the leap before the end of the year, and it doesn’t sound like he was surprised to see Panasonic joining in, too. Either way, in his own words, ‘I don’t care about competitors, I care about the customers’.

The a7 III isn’t going to become a poor camera once a future Mark IV version comes out

That should be encouraging news for users of Sony’s well-established a7-series and a9 cameras, who might be justifiably interested in what Canon, Nikon and Panasonic have to offer in the coming years. Also encouraging, for consumers willing to wait a couple of years before buying into new technologies, it seems that Sony will continue its strategy of keeping older models on the market at reduced prices. The last-generation a7 II is a bargain right now, and the a7 III isn’t going to become a poor camera once a future Mark IV version comes out, even if future AI-assisted cameras make photography even easier than it is now.

Speaking of AI, this particular comment is highly significant and worth quoting again in its entirety:

“Cameras should support creators. Focusing on eyes or focusing on other shapes is a very complex action. Photographers just want to think about composition, or capturing a moment. So I want to remove the need for focus manipulation, or other manipulation. When it comes to autofocus, Sony is very dedicated to developing AI“.

Mr Tanaka also had good news for fans of APS-C camera users, and users of the video-oriented a7S II. On the APS-C side, he admits that full-frame has been a major focus recently, but ” APS-C cameras for professional use must exist” and “APS-C remains a key target”.

Mr Tanaka’s list of customer requests serves as a strong hint at features that could make it into an a7S III

The a7S II is a highly specialized camera, intended to satisfy the needs of enthusiast and professional videographers. It’s been due for an upgrade for a little while, and Mr Tanaka’s list of customer requests serves as a strong hint at features that could make it into a Mark III version. Perhaps at next year’s NAB show in spring? Here’s hoping.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Don’t wait for Holga – this battery-free Instax printer is already on the market

18 Oct

Toy manufacturer Tomy has announced the KiiPix, a battery-free smartphone printer that’s remarkably similar to the one Holga has been promoting through its Kickstarter campaign. The biggest difference between the two is that you can get the KiiPix today, rather than having to wait for a Kickstarter.

The KiiPix is designed very much like the Holga version, other than the pull-up bellows, and uses the same principles for copying the screen of your smartphone onto Fujifilm Instax Mini instant film.

To make a print, users are encouraged to turn up the brightness of their screen and place the smartphone face down on a frame supported by a fold-out stand. The shutter is tripped using a nearly identical side-lever mechanism as the Holga Printer, and a winding crank draws the film from the cassette through the exit slot to trigger development.

The only thing the KiipIx needs to print photos is a steady supply of Instax film. It collapses down to 135x55x175mm/5.3×2.1×6.88in to stow away easily in a bag for carrying around. The printer has been available since August, and retails for$ 40/£39. It comes in a range of colors depending on your region. For more information see the Tomy website.

PRINT PICTURES ANYTIME, ANYWHERE WITH KIIPIX

KiiPix from TOMY is the new and innovative smartphone printer that instantly prints your favourite photos straight from your smartphone to create lasting memories.

Unlike many instant cameras or photo-printing devices, KiiPix does not require batteries, an app or Wi-Fi to use; simply open up the device, place your smartphone on top, press the button and rotate the dial to print out your photo. KiiPix’s compact design means it’s easily portable so you are ready to print photos anytime, anywhere. It comes in three colours: cherry blossom, sky blue and jet black and at an affordable price point of £39.99 is guaranteed to appeal to the masses.

As the revival of retro inspired products becomes more prominent in both the fashion and technology industries, Kiipix is tipped to be the must-have lifestyle product for millennials, students and young women in 2018. From fashion, to gaming systems, to food, consumer trends show that nostalgic brands are resonating with millennials as they embrace old favourites.

There has been a huge surge in the popularity of instant photography in the last number of years as consumers turn to analogue camera equipment and discover the joy of print photography in this digital age. KiiPix combines both the new and the old, as users can capture and modify photos on their smartphones before instantly printing, retro style.

Kiipix will be supported with a strong digital and social media campaign, as well as being present at experiential consumer events; influencer marketing will also be central to the product launch.

KiiPix – SRP: £39.99
The innovative KiiPix device is light and compact, and collapses into a peggable closed box making it easily portable measuring at 135 mm x 55 mm x 175 mm. KiiPix comes in three colours, cherry blossom, sky blue and jet black. Available in August 2018. Suitable for 10 years plus.

All TOMY toys are cleverly designed to develop children’s core skills whilst they play. Manufactured to the highest standards, this collection of reliable toys continues to be a family favourite, building on the heritage and core values, which parents associate with TOMY. For more information on TOMY please visit www.tomy.com, become a fan at Facebook.com/tomy.toy.uk or follow us on @TomyToysUK.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Pigs don’t fly, but bears do with DJI’s latest Spark drone

07 Aug

In one of the more bizarre collaborations we’ve seen in a while, drone manufacturer DJI has teamed up with Line Friends to release an animal-themed DJI Spark drone.

For those unfamiliar, Line Friends is a collection of playful characters taken from the messaging app Line. Although pictures indicate other characters could make their way onto DJI Spark drones, the only confirmed character collaboration is with a bear named Brown.

As you may have suspected, the special-edition DJI Spark, named ‘LINE FRIENDS (BROWN) | Spark,’ features a brown paint scheme with the bear’s adorable features on top. In addition to the drone’s paint scheme, the remote control also features an image of Brown on the top faceplate, between the antennas. To wrap it all up, a custom box is included as well, which features an image of Brown holding a DJI remote control.

Aside from the custom paint scheme, the Spark drone remains identical to the standard version, including the 16 minute flight time, two mile range, 2-axis gimbal and 12-megapixel camera. Like its less decorative counterpart, the LINE FRIENDS (BROWN) | Spark costs $ 399 and can be purchased through DJI’s online store.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Don’t Show Me Your Tricks, Show Me Your Photography Skills

07 Aug

Did you know that the automated features and tricks built into cameras and computer software can actually stunt your photographic growth and photography skills? It’s true. Unless you are seeking to learn how to achieve specific results from the canned effects used by others, you might be shortchanging yourself.

Think back to what made you take up photography in the first place. Remember seeing the amazing shots in magazines, online, or taken by a friend and then dreaming that you too might produce amazing pictures?

Well, you can and you should. Learn the camera’s basic controls and how to shape your pictures with software tools, and don’t just rely on packaged effects.

Tricks Bode Orig - Don’t Show Me Your Tricks, Show Me Your Photography Skills

Photography skills override tricks

If you enjoy fishing but purchase fresh fish from the market on your way home, are you really fishing? You might bring home a tasty meal but can you really take credit for the catch? You dove into photography to capture great shots and produce gorgeous pictures. don’t shortchange yourself with tricks and shortcuts.

An occasional foray into visual effects can be interesting, but a steady diet gets boring and appears cliché.

Are you relying on auto settings, presets, and effects to make your shots look special? Do you run your photos through software that pushes your shots through prefab cookie-cutter interpretations?

Perhaps it’s time to put your time into understanding the basics of the photographic process. There’s an artist inside you yearning to learn. Put that artist to work in reality. Let your pride be in your work, not someone else’s.

Stop being predictable.

Those pre-digested interpretations offered by many post-processing software packages are way too easy to spot. The effects should be used sparingly and only when the scene really lends itself to the effect. Presets look good once in a while (I use them myself occasionally). But I want people to see my photography skills, not someone else’s tricks.

Be the individual, not the trend.

Stop doing what everybody else does and start expressing yourself. I grew up in the hippie era and to some degree, I bought into the trend. I wanted to be taken seriously as an individual; a non-conformist who didn’t just follow the masses and do what everybody else did.

But eventually, I realized that all my non-conformists friends dressed alike, talked alike, acted alike, and (frankly) smelled alike. All while proclaiming their individuality.

They conformed to the accepted non-conformity trends. That herd-mentality behavior didn’t make sense back then and it doesn’t make sense now. If you want to express yourself, do just that – express yourself. Just take the time to learn the basics of shaping images. It’s a whole lot easier than you think and it’s amazingly rewarding.

Tricks Bridge Orig - Photography Skills

Nobody I know actually lives in a fantasyland with color as over-amped as this. Indiscriminately using a colorful effect on the wrong image can reduce the image to a clown show.

You are a logical person with a good head on your shoulders. You know you can do serious work if you take the time to learn the process. There is more to photography than learning the camera controls. You must understand the why issues of photography, not just the how of the camera buttons.

Your images deserve special attention… yours!

Use your imagination.

Determine today to see life through your own lens and interpret what you see with your eyes and your imagination. Shape your images with a clear understanding of how to command the medium of photography. Don’t see life through the lens of popular automation and trick treatments, learn to control the light and color that your camera captures.

This is a pricey waterfront condo in Nassau. When you take the time to match the scene with an appropriate treatment, the results make sense to the viewer.

Capture images and shape them into what your mind sees. Don’t try to force your shots into someone else’s prefab, over-used interpretations. If this really is an age of personal expression, take control of your creative life by learning how to control the light in your photographs, both during the capture process and in post-production.

Eventually, you will come to a point where you want to test the waters of photo-creativity, learn the basics of image shaping, and let your images show your talent and photography skills instead of displaying someone else’s. It all starts with taking the time to learn the basics and believing in yourself.

Just the right amount.

One of the most beneficial parts of understanding how to shape your own pictures is knowing how much adjustment is enough and how much is too much. Like a four-year-old little girl playing with her mother’s makeup, your first attempts won’t be works of art, but that’s the way EVERY great photographer starts; over-producing their pictures.

The single most important ingredient in success is practice. Practice makes better, none of us ever get to perfect.

FoldedSail SBS - Photography Skills

Here’s the first rule of editing. When alterations start looking surrealistic, you’ve probably taken the processing too far. We enjoy special effects in the movies but we live in the real world. Small adjustments to colors and tones sometimes produce big differences. Make your initial moves and then back away from the picture for a few minutes and then take another look at the project again.

Imaging Basics

Nudging the mid-tones lighter and increasing the overall contrast can improve the appearance of almost every photo. It’s a good place to start.

Because of the linear manner in which digital cameras capture images, the simple process of capturing a scene with pixels produces images that are darker in the three-quarter tones than they need to be. These images usually benefit from shifting the mid-tones lighter simply by making some minor adjustments in the Basic panel in Camera Raw or Lightroom.

Learn to fine-tune your images to bring out the true colors and detail. The process is simple but the results can be profound. Target specific regions of light to reveal to the viewer what your mind saw when your camera captured the image. Our brains compensate for unbalanced lighting in a scene while the camera simply records existing light levels.

Small adjustments can make a major difference in the appearance of digital image captures.

Your camera doesn’t know where important detail is located in an image, although your brain located the detail and mentally enhanced the scene. You must learn how to deal with the scene’s lighting and reveal that detail manually. Most of those ho-hum images just need a little TLC to come to life.

Two panels in Camera Raw provided all the controls and tools I needed to target and enhance specific areas of this image.

The white surfaces of the house above needed a boost to brighten them up without losing the surface detail. The detail in the deep shadow tones of the trees and stair steps needed to be lightened without losing the defining deep shadows.

The Basic panel provided the tools and the Tone Curve panel provided the narrow target for both the highlight and shadow adjustment without affecting the mid-tones.

Conclusion

Be the artist who understands their medium and is in command of their art. Let others see your style and maybe they’ll try to emulate you. Stop playing follow the leader and become the leader. There are only a handful of basic skills you need to develop to break the mold and really control your pictures.

Enough of the grunge, the excessive saturation, the surrealism, and the pre-packaged garbage. Start showing the world your skills and leave the tricks to the those who need them.

The post Don’t Show Me Your Tricks, Show Me Your Photography Skills appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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You probably don’t know what ISO means – and that’s a problem

06 Aug

Whatever camera or phone you have, it’ll report the ISO value it used to take its photos. Despite its ubiquity, ‘ISO’ probably doesn’t mean what you think it does. Worse still, it may be holding your camera back, both in terms of the images it takes and in the tools it provides you. This means it’s potentially holding your photography back, too. Part of the problem stems from the fact that ISO sounds like something you were already familiar with.

At first glance, ISO settings look just like the sensitivity ratings used for film (to the extent that there are some people who still refer to ASA: the US standard incorporated into the ISO standard for film). But ISO in digital isn’t the same as film. it’s essentially a metaphor for the way film sensitivity worked, if you got it processed in a minilab machine. This is a problem.

It causes confusion

The apparent familiarity and simplicity of ISO setting leads to a number of common misunderstandings. Despite what you may have heard or read, changing the ISO of your camera does not change its sensitivity.

ISO changes the lightness of the final image but it doesn’t change the fundamental sensitivity of your sensor. Nor is it an indicator of amplification being applied: although many cameras do increase their amplification as you increase the ISO setting, this isn’t always the case.

“Why can’t I use ISO 100 in Log mode?” The answer is that a log gamma curve is so flat that it requires very little light to achieve middle grey, which means it’s considered a high ISO. Strictly speaking, though, you can’t really calculate an ISO value for log at all, since the standard is based on a different colorspace and gamma. It’s a similar story for Raw.

This may sound like semantic nit-picking, but it causes a lot of misunderstandings. It’s widely thought that the additional noise in high ISO image comes from the ‘background hum’ of the sensor’s amplifiers. This feels right: we’ve all heard more hum if we turn up the volume on an audio amplifier. Unfortunately it’s simply not true: most noise actually comes from the light you’re capturing, so it primarily depends on your shutter speed and aperture*.

The ISO standard doesn’t specify that amplification needs to be used, nor does it specify what happens in the Raw file

The ISO standard doesn’t specify that amplification needs to be used, nor does it specify what happens in the Raw file. All it does is relate initial exposure to output JPEG lightness, however that is achieved. The only sure difference at the Raw level from an increase in ISO is that the change in ISO setting almost certainly led to less exposure, which means less light and therefore more noise for each tone from the scene.

There’s an ISO standard that’s slightly more pertinent to Raw files, which looks at when the sensor becomes completely saturated, but this doesn’t correspond to the standard used by your camera. So next time you see a graph comparing ‘Manufacturer’ and ‘Measured’ ISO, what you’re actually looking at is the ‘JPEG ISO’ vs ‘Saturation ISO.’ Any differences between the two mainly tell you how many stops above middle grey the manufacturer’s JPEG tone curve is designed to deliver.

It encourages poor exposure

As well as giving a false sense of simplicity, ISO’s increasingly tenuous attempt to mimic film ratings can mean making poor use of sensor response.

Film (particularly negative film) has a very distinctive response curve that gives lots of latitude for recovering highlights. Digital is very different: it offers a much more linear response but with a hard, unrecoverable clipping point in the highlights. And no, your favorite software doesn’t really recover completely clipped highlights from your Raw file**.

This graph shows the signal-to-noise ratio (essentially the noisiness) at different brightness levels of film and digital. The film response peaks and then gradually declines, with plenty of scope for recovering highlights from the right-hand side of the curve. The digital response rises to much higher levels than the film, then cuts-off abruptly. So why would you expose these two media in the same way?

Illustration based on DxO’s analysis

And yet, despite these differences, the digital ISO standard is based around ‘correctly’ exposing JPEG midtones***. A 2006 update to the standard gave manufacturers some flexibility in terms of how many stops of highlights they wanted in their JPEGs above middle grey****, but it still encourages exposure based on midtones, with a pre-set number of stops above this for highlights.

That’s not the best way to expose digital. The best results are achieved by giving as much exposure as possible without clipping the brightest tones you care about: a process called ‘exposing to the right.’ This maximizes the amount of light, and hence signal which, in turn, optimizes the signal-to-noise ratio (essentially ‘noisiness’).

And yet, by worrying about the JPEG middle grey, cameras end up giving every image the same number of stops for highlights, even though this is wasted in low DR scenes (that highlight space isn’t used and exposure is lower than optimal) or insufficient in high DR situations: the lovely colors of the sunset you’re shooting are lost, unrecoverably, to clipping.


ISO200 (DR 100)	ISO 400 (DR 200)	ISO400 (DR 100)
Fujifilm’s DR modes essentially give you a choice of amplification and tone curve combinations that include different amounts of highlight information. These end up being rated as different ISO settings. The ISO 200 / DR 100 example on the left has the least noise. The ISO 400 / DR 200 image has a shorter exposure, bringing more noise, despite having the same amount of amplification as the ISO 200 image. This low level of amplification means it has retained more highlight information than the ISO 400 / DR 100 image on the right, which used the same exposure but more amplification.

This problem isn’t easily solved: there are times that exposing-to-the-right will result in noisier midtones than you want. In these situations, you have to let the highlights go. However, fixating on JPEG midtones isn’t helpful.

It warps camera development

This brings us to the biggest problem with using a clumsy metaphor for film sensitivity as the way of setting image brightness in digital: it means we aren’t given the tools to optimally expose our sensors.

ISO ends up conflating the effects of amplification and of tone curve, meaning you have to do your own research to find out what your camera’s doing behind the scenes, and what the best way to expose it is.

We aren’t given the most basic tools: Raw histograms or Raw clipping warnings that would help optimize exposure

The preview image your camera gives, the histograms it draws and the exposure meters and guides it offers are all based on JPEG output and their midtones, because ISO says that’s what matters. This means we aren’t given the most basic tools we need: Raw histograms or Raw clipping warnings that would help optimize exposure. It means no development has been done to create more sophisticated tools that would help you judge the quality implications of exposing to the right, and when to let the highlights go.

In short, ISO is an increasingly shaky metaphor that promotes misunderstanding, obscures what your camera is doing and robs us of the tools we need to get the most out of our cameras. Isn’t it time for something better?

Thanks to Bobn2 for feedback and fact-checking

* This misunderstanding possibly stems from another misunderstanding. The hum you hear when you turn up the volume on an audio amplifier isn’t caused by the amplifier itself, it’s the hum of the mains electricity, made audible. [Return to text]

** Highlight recovery sliders usually rely on only one of the color channels having truly clipped, and try to guess the value of the clipped channels, based on the remaining, unclipped one, so tend to be limited in their effectiveness. [Return to text]

*** We put the word “correctly” in inverted commas because the more you think about it, the harder it becomes to pin down what ‘correct’ exposure might be. If you’re certain that you know what ‘correct’ exposure means, then you should probably check through the assumptions that underpin it. [Return to text]

**** This change is why the JPEG ISO ratings used by manufacturers don’t need to coincide with clipping-based Raw ISO numbers. We’ve previously written an article about how it works. [Return to text]

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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