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Have Digital Filters Replaced the Need for Physical Lens Filters?

24 Feb

The post Have Digital Filters Replaced the Need for Physical Lens Filters? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.

Do you need filters for beautiful pictures?

If you are old enough to have used a film camera, you know why people needed lens filters in order to accomplish visual effects in their images.  Back in the film days, you had limited control over white balance or ISO. Once you selected your film from the available film stock, and put it in your camera, you were stuck with a roll (24 or 36 exposures) of single ISO negative or slide film that was probably daylight balanced. In order to not waste money, you did everything you could to carefully mete out your images and make the most of them.

Most film was daylight balanced so getting it right in-camera was critical

Back in the day

To help you make great images in the film days, you needed certain filters to help fix your white balance, and neutral density (ND) filters to allow you to slow your shutter speeds down. That was then, this is now. With the advent of digital cameras and the high-powered abilities of most image editing software, you can accomplish digitally much of the work that filters used to do.  Is there still a place in modern digital photography for optical lens filters?

The answer is yes, but only for a few specific types of filters. In fact, you may find it difficult to get many filters in your local camera store that would have been readily available in the film camera days.  Most bricks and mortar camera stores carry few filters. The more unusual filters might be found in the bargain bin section, next to the books on how to use your new Canon 5D mark 1 (hint: that is an old digital camera).

Some filters have to be really large to accommodate wide angle lenses

Types of Optical Lens Filters

I find that optical lens filters break down into six general types: UV/skylight filters, color modifiers, special effects, specialty filters, ND filters (including graduated), and circular polarizers. Most optical filters can be replaced by digital processes, either in the camera itself or in post-production. Some optical filters are really big and all take up space in your bag.

Ultraviolet (UV) or Skylight filters

Let’s consider UV or skylight filters. Film stock was often sensitive to UV light so it was important to protect your film by using a filter so that UV light wouldn’t make the images hazy.  Modern digital cameras are not susceptible to UV light interfering with their sensors as there are already UV and IR filters built into the cameras (we will discuss the importance of this later). Today, UV or skylight filters serve a completely different purpose: many photographers use them to protect the front element of their lenses.

A UV or Skylight Filter will protect your lens front element

UV/Skylight filters as lens protection

As an aside, there are two schools of thought regarding UV or skylight filters. Some argue that putting a cheap filter in front of a really expensive lens significantly degrades the optical properties of your lens and that most good quality lenses have great coatings and are quite robust.  Alternatively, others would prefer to replace a $ 100 filter than replace a $ 2000 lens. While I agree you should never use cheap filters, I do tend to think that if you use good filters they do protect your investment in much more expensive lenses. I have replaced lots of filters that were shattered from an impact. In all of those cases, the front lens elements were protected from contact by the filter. I am not sure that would have occurred without the sacrificial filters.

Regardless, since these UV/skylight filters don’t cause any significant changes to your image, they really are only useful for physical lens protection.

A warming filter to adjust white balance

Color filters

Color filters were another common filter used with film cameras for simple color correction. Back in the film days, the film stock was mostly daylight balanced so if your images were taken in non-daylight conditions, you would need to use a color filter to correct your white balance. Although film processors had some ability to adjust the white balance in the lab, back then – today too, for that matter – it was always easier when you got things right in camera. Color filters are still available but are more of a novelty item, used for a specific effect, often in concert with gelled flashes and strobes. They are also still used for film cameras, instant cameras, and for specific applications like underwater photography.

Special effects filters

Once upon a time, there were lots of special effects filters that would produce in-camera special effects like grids, streaks, and starbursts. These all still work on digital cameras, however, most of these effects can be digitally produced, reducing the need for the optical filter. Many film shooters will take their images and then scan them to edit them, so the extra effort and cost of using special effects filters seem unnecessary. They are also difficult to find.

Rectangular Graduated Neutral Density Filter

Neutral Density Filters – Graduated

The next filter type to consider is the neutral density filters, commonly used by landscape photographers (both film and digital). These divide into two groups: graduated neutral density filters and overall neutral density filters. Acting like sunglasses for your camera, graduated neutral density filters are all neutral colored – they should impart little color change – and darken only part of the image. Graduated filters help deal with the dynamic range of your sensors, particularly when shooting into scenes that are very bright and very dark in the same view. Most modern digital cameras have a dynamic range of about 10 – 14 stops whereas your eyes are more like 20 stops. Keep in mind that this is not really a fair comparison because our eyes work quite differently from camera sensors. Graduated neutral density filters can usually be applied in post-processing. Although, if the dynamic range is really huge, it often means you can take one image rather than multiple images that need to be composited (this is what HDR images really are).

The left shows the image normally processed with the right having a digital neutral density filter

Neutral Density Filters – Non-Graduated

A neutral density filter (non-graduated) is the first optical filter type that does things that cannot be easily duplicated, either in camera or in post-production. At least not all of its functions. While it is certainly possible to darken your images digitally in post, a non-graduated neutral density filter allows you to take images that your camera would not allow you to take in full sunlight. In full sun, it may be so bright that you may not be able to stop your lens down and slow your shutter down sufficiently to get motion to blur. Non-graduated neutral density filters allow you to slow your shutter speed down in the field when conditions are bright. You will be able to take images of moving subjects in bright locales and blur the motion to create interesting effects.  For example, waterfalls are often shot using a non-graduated neutral density filter. Neutral density filters are often measured in stops to indicate the number of stops you can slow things down. At the extreme end of the non-graduated neutral density filters are the specialty filters used for photographing solar eclipses. Without these strong filters, the sun can permanently damage camera sensors.

Neutral Density Filters on the front element of the lens

Smooth water motion with a non-graduated neutral density filter for longer exposures

Specialty filters

The second optical filter type that cannot be duplicated in post-processing or in-camera are specialty filters related to UV and IR light.  By default, cameras have filters on their sensors that cut UV and IR light out so that only visible light is recorded. However, it is possible to get these filters removed (you have to send your camera body away) to allow you to shoot UV-only, full spectrum (which includes UV, visible and IR), or IR-only images. Once this is done, your modified camera is generally limited to that particular use, but the images it produces can be quite interesting. By using specialty filters on a modified camera body that allows for full spectrum, you can control what portion of the spectrum is visible in your images. There are cut filters that allow full spectrum sensors to only see UV, visible light or IR spectrum. These filters cannot be duplicated in post-processing.

Slight neutral density cast for a circular polarizer

Circular Polarizers

The final optical filter type that cannot be duplicated in post-processing is a circular polarizer.  There are actually two types of polarizers, linear and circular. They both cut the same light out but circular polarizers can rotate an allow you to find the optimal orientation whereas linear polarizers are fixed (you should only use circular polarizers unless you know what you are doing). Circular polarizers do two things: cut down reflections and increase contrast. Some also act as a weak neutral density filter. When light hits a metallic or watery surface, the reflected light tends to be polarized (all the light is vibrating in the same direction). The circular polarizer lets you filter out this polarized light. You do this by turning the filter.  The change can be quite dramatic, and it cannot be achieved in any practical sense through post-processing. In addition, because there is always some polarized light in the atmosphere, the filter will make the colors in your images punchier. This is a secondary feature of polarizers but adds to their use. Colors just pop more.  Different brands and types alter how much this occurs. In general, you can’t go wrong using a circular polarizer, particularly for landscape photography.

Circular Polarizers help control reflections

Conclusion

Many filters that were used with film cameras are not really required anymore because of the ability to control white balance and ISO. Other filters created effects that can easily be duplicated using image editing software like Photoshop. Despite this there are a few filter types that cannot be replaced by processes applied in post, thus they remain vital tools in your photographer’s toolbox.

Do you use filters? Share with us in the comments below.

 

 

The post Have Digital Filters Replaced the Need for Physical Lens Filters? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.


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ProGrade Digital launches Recovery Pro, a file recovery program for professionals

14 Feb

ProGrade Digital has announced Recovery Pro, a new file recovery software designed specifically to salvage photos and video files that have been lost due to corruption or accidental deletion.

Recovery Pro is capable of recovering more than 90 different audio, photo and video file types from CFast, CompactFlash, microSDHC/XC and SDXC cards, with an emphasis on the following formats: TIFF, CRW, CR2, DNG, NEF, ORF, SRF, PEF, JPEG, BMP, GIF, PNG, and ‘most types of RAW.’ ProGrade Digital also notes companion audio files are formats embedded within video files are recovered as well.

Recovery Pro is compatible with macOS and Windows 10. The only noted requirement is a minimum of 4GB of RAM.

A free evaluation version is available for download and a 12-month software subscription costs $ 49.99 USD. To find out more information and download the trial, head over to ProGrade Digital’s website.

ProGrade Digital Introduces Recovery Pro Software to Restore Complex Photo and Motion Files

Recovers Lost, Deleted and/orCorrupted Files Produced Using DSLR, Digital Cinema, Mirrorless, Video Cameras

SAN JOSE, Calif., February 11th, 2019 — ProGrade Digital, founded on a mission to provide the highest quality professional grade memory cards and workflow solutions, today announcedRecovery Pro, professional-grade software to assist with recovery of photo and video files that have become lost, accidentally deleted and/or corrupted. Recovery Pro recognizes RAW, TIF, JPEG, MJP, MOV, MP4 and other files types produced by DSLR, mirrorless,cinema and video cameras from Canon™,DJI™, GoPro™, Nikon™, Sony®, Panasonic™, Fuji™and more.ProGrade Digital Recovery Pro software is compatible with Windows®10and higher and Mac®OS X. A free “try before you buy” evaluation copy is available; full software download is $ 49.99 USD for a 12-month subscription.Available exclusively athttps://progradedigital.com/products/recovery-pro-data-recovery-software/“We are happy to release our new Recovery Pro software after having spent nearly one year developing it to refine the recovery capabilities for all types of still and video files,” said Wes Brewer, founder and CEO of ProGrade Digital.“Today, there are a variety of free and paid software applications for professionals to recover lost images and video files, but each has limits due to the complexity of various file structures and corruption scenarios. We believe that our new Recovery Pro software is the most comprehensive tool available, and yields the highest possible success rate for recovering damaged files from all types of cameras–be it action cameras, drones, pro camcorders, DSLRs or some of the newest mirrorless models.”Recovery Pro SoftwareKey FeaturesImaging professionals who produce still, video and cinema-grade 4 thru 6K, UHD and/or 360-degree file types now have a comprehensive file recovery tool:

  • Recovers motion file formats, including: MOV, AVI, ASF, MOD, WMV, MP4
  • Recovers photo file formats, including: TIF, CRW, CR2, DNG, NEF, ORF, SRF, PEF, JPEG, BMP, GIF, PNG, most types of RAW
  • Recovers more than 90 different audio and video file formats
  • Recovers companion audio file formats embedded within video
  • Recovers files acquired using Canon, DJI, GoPro, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Fuji, and other camera brands
  • Compatible with files produced using CFast, SDXC, microSDHC/XC, and CompactFlash cards
  • Compatible with Windows 10; macOS
  • Free evaluation version; download and activate a 12-month software subscription for $ 49.99 USD
  • Requires minimum 4GB RAM

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 boasts 16.6x magnification

13 Feb

Olympus has unveiled a super telephoto zoom for its Micro Four Thirds cameras: the M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3. It’s a 24-400mm equiv. zoom boasting a class-leading 16.6x magnification. Though it lacks the ‘Pro’ designation of higher-end Olympus optics, the company claims that it offers the same dustproof and splashproof build quality as those lenses.

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The 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 does not offer built-in stabilization, and will rely on camera body IS. The lens uses Olympus’ MSC (Movie and Still Compatible) focusing mechanism and provides quieter operation – particularly useful for shooting video. The company’s ZERO (Zuiko Extra-low Reflection Optical) coating is also employed to reduce flare and ghosting.

The 12-200mm will go on sale in March for $ 900.


Official Olympus 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 sample images

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Press release

OLYMPUS ANNOUNCES M.ZUIKO® DIGITAL ED 12-200mm (35mm EQUIVALENT 24-400mm) F3.5-6.3 LENS

Powerful 16.6x Zoom is the Highest Magnification Available on an Interchangeable Lens for Mirrorless Systems

CENTER VALLEY, PA., February 13, 2019 – Olympus is pleased to announce the M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 (35mm equivalent 24-400mm) super telephoto zoom lens. Conforming to the Micro Four Thirds® System Standard, this lens features the highest magnification zoom available on an interchangeable lens for mirrorless systems at 16.6x . Users will experience excellent depictive performance across the entire focal length from wide-angle to telephoto, making it the perfect travel companion, packing high-speed and high-precision autofocus into an amazingly compact, lightweight form. The M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 lens features a dustproof and splashproof construction, making this lens durable enough to withstand the toughest shooting conditions, especially when paired with a weathersealed Olympus OM-D® camera body.

When shooting wide, the closest focusing distance is approximately 22 cm (approximately 10 cm from the end of the lens) from the main subject for capturing the subject along with an expansive background. When shooting telephoto, the maximum magnification of 0.46x (35mm equivalent) for close-up photography and for significant background defocusing. This do-it-all lens is perfect for close-ups of children’s expressions, indoor and outdoor situations and a variety of other subjects.

The M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 lens features the same reliable dustproof and splashproof performance as the M.Zuiko PRO lens series. When combined with a dustproof and splashproof camera , it can function in the most punishing of environments.

This lens is equipped with the MSC (Movie and Still Compatible) mechanism, an advanced inner focusing mechanism providing fast, smooth, quiet and accurate auto-focusing, ideal for video shooters. Users will enjoy a short shooting time lag, so split-second photo opportunities are not missed. Amazingly high-speed, precise autofocus performance on this high-magnification zoom lens will provide comfortable, fun shooting.

ZERO (Zuiko Extra-low Reflection Optical) coating, Olympus’ cutting-edge thin-coating technology, cultivated from multilayer film disposition technology used in microscopes, has been applied to the M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 lens to drastically reduce ghosts and flares, contributing to a clear, high-contrast image.

Separately Available Accessories

LC-72C Lens Cap: Equipped with a 72mm filter diameter that can be attached and removed without the need to remove the lens hood.

LH-76B Lens Hood: Protects the lens and reduces unnecessary light entering the lens when shooting in backlit conditions.

LSC-0914 Lens Case: A pouch-style lens case that protects lenses with three-layer construction. Lenses can be stored with the lens cap, protection filter and lens hoot (stored) attached.

ZUIKO PRF-ZD72 PRO Protection Filter: A lens filter equipped with ZERO coating and blackened glass edges, used to suppress flares and ghosting caused by reflections. The frame consists of a satin finish black aluminum. This filter is also compatible with other lenses of a 72mm filter diameter.

Specifications are subject to change without notice. Company names and product names contained in this release are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective companies.

U.S. Pricing and Availability
The Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 lens has an expected availability of late March 2019 with suggested retail pricing of $ 899.99 (USD) and $ 1,149.99 (CAD). The LC-72C Lens Cap will retail for $ 14.99 (USD & CAD). The LH-76B Lens Hood will retail for $ 49.99 (USD) and $ 64.99 (CAD). The LSC-0914 Lens Case will retail for $ 31.99 (USD & CAD). The ZUIKO PRF-ZD72 PRO Protection Filter will retail for $ 79.99 (USD & CAD).

Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-200mm F3.5-6.3 specifications

Principal specifications
Lens type Zoom lens
Max Format size FourThirds
Focal length 12–200 mm
Image stabilization No
Lens mount Micro Four Thirds
Aperture
Maximum aperture F3.5–6.3
Minimum aperture F22
Aperture ring No
Number of diaphragm blades 7
Optics
Elements 16
Groups 11
Special elements / coatings 3 Aspherical lenses, 2 Super ED, 2 ED, 1 Super HR, 2 HR elements + ZERO coating
Focus
Minimum focus 0.22 m (8.66)
Maximum magnification 0.46×
Autofocus Yes
Motor type Stepper motor
Full time manual Yes
Focus method Internal
Distance scale No
DoF scale No
Focus distance limiter No
Physical
Weight 455 g (1.00 lb)
Diameter 78 mm (3.07)
Length 100 mm (3.94)
Sealing Yes
Colour Black
Zoom method Rotary (extending)
Power zoom No
Zoom lock No
Filter thread 72 mm
Hood supplied Yes
Tripod collar No

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Add a Toy Camera Effect to Your Digital Images Using Photoshop

29 Jan

The post How to Add a Toy Camera Effect to Your Digital Images Using Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


They may look cute, but toy cameras aren’t actually toys at all. The name refers to inexpensive film cameras made predominantly of plastic and paired with a simplistic lens.

From around the 1990s, toy cameras garnered popularity for their distinctive aesthetic. Cameras like the Diana and Holga are embraced, light leaks and all, for their wonderfully unpredictable results.

With their vignetting, blurry focus and lens distortion, photographers armed with toy cameras relinquish control over the definitive outcome of the image, adding a palpable sense of serendipity to the photographic process.

Applying a toy camera effect to a digital photograph isn’t the same as using a toy camera itself, I know. But it’s a fun way to add a unique retro feel to a photograph while making use of the control that a digital camera affords.

Here’s how to add a toy camera effect to a digital photograph using Photoshop.

1. Cropping your image

Open up your image in Photoshop. Here’s my starting image.

The original image

Toy cameras work within a square format, so you’ll need to crop your photograph accordingly. Select the Crop Tool from the left toolbar. In the top toolbar, click on the dropdown menu that regulates the crop ratio. Select 1×1 (Square).

A square demonstrating the crop parameters will appear over your image. Adjust the parameters until you are happy and press enter.

2. Applying a vignette

With your layer selected in the Layers palette, go to Layer -> Duplicate Layer. A dialogue box will pop up. In the input field next to “As:” type “Layer 1” and click OK. This duplicates your current layer so you can work non-destructively.

Next, right click on Layer 1 and select Convert to Smart Object.

Select Filter -> Lens Correction and a dialog box will open. Click on the Custom tab. In the Vignette section of the Custom tab, adjust the Amount slider and the Midpoint slider until you have a nice, dark vignette (for this image I set the amount to -100 and the midpoint to +10). Repeat this step if you want a darker vignette.

Use the Lens Correction function to apply a vignette to your image

3. Adding blur

As I mentioned before, a lot of photographs taken with a toy camera are unfocused or blurry. To emulate this, make sure Layer 1 is selected and go to Filter->Blur->Gaussian Blur. In the Gaussian Blur window set the Radius from 5 to 10 pixels depending on your image and click OK.

In the Gaussian Blur window set the Radius from 5 to 10 pixels depending on your image and click OK

4. Adjusting colors

Toy cameras often lend a distinctive color-cast to photographs. In the layers panel, click on the Create a new fill or adjustment layer button and select Curves. In the Curves adjustment palette click on the RGB menu, select the red channel and create a shallow ‘S’ bend. Select the green channel and apply the same shallow ‘S’ shape. Now select the blue channel and create an inverted ‘S’.

Use the curves function to emulate the distinctive color-cast often encountered in photos taken with a toy camera

5. Creating light leaks

One fun characteristic of toy cameras are light leaks. A light leak is caused by a hole or gap in the body of the camera, allowing light to “leak” into the film chamber. This exposes the film to excess light. The result is whimsical fields of color that add character to a photograph and illustrate the photographic process.

To emulate light leaks you first need to create a new layer. Click on the Create a new layer button at the bottom of the layers panel and rename the layer “Light leaks”.

Select your brush tool and set the brush size to around 2000 and your hardness to 0%. Set the foreground color to your preferred color – usually red, yellow or blue. With the “Light leaks” layer selected, dot or streak one or two patches of color over your image.

Once you are done painting the light leaks, change the Blending Mode of the layer by clicking on the Blending Modes dropdown menu and selecting Color. You can change the opacity of the light leaks by toggling the Opacity slider on the layers panel too.

Conclusion

And there you have it. Now that you know how to add a toy camera aesthetic to your photograph, the possibilities are endless. This is a great opportunity to make use of unfocused, spotty or noisy digital images. It’s the next best thing to using a real toy camera yourself!

Here are a couple of my own creations below, post yours in the comments!

 

The post How to Add a Toy Camera Effect to Your Digital Images Using Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Western Digital releases MyPassport Go SSD portable storage

11 Jan

Running out of digital storage while out on an extended photographic shooting session is never a good thing and Western Digital’s latest MyPassport Go SSD, which was formally introduced at CES, looks like an easy solution for avoiding such situations.

The portable SSD features a rugged case that comes in blue or yellow. Rubber bumpers allow for a 2m / 6.5ft drop resistance and Western Digital claims read speeds of up to 400MB/s which according to the manufacturer makes the MyPassport Go SSD 2.5x faster than conventional drives.

An integrated USB 3.0 cable is on board for easy connection to your PC computer or Mac. The drive comes with an automatic backup software for Windows and is also compatible with Apple’s Time Machine. The new My Passport Go is available now and will set you back $ 90 for the 500GB variant. The 1TB version is $ 170.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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ProGrade Digital releases dual-slot SD card reader with speeds up to 1.25GB/s

05 Jan

ProGrade Digital has announced a new dual SD card reader round out its memory card reader lineup.

The Dual-Slot SD Card Reader is the fourth in ProGrade Digital’s lineup that includes a CFast & UHS-II SD, CompactFlash & UHS-II SD, and dual UHS-II microSD card readers. It uses the USB 3.1, Gen. 2 interface and supports the maximum 10Gb/s (1.25GB/s) transfer speed.

The card reader also uses ProGrade Digital’s patent-pending magnetic base and features LED indicators for both card slots to display data transfer activity. The device is backwards compatible with UHS-I cards and USB 3.0 devices.

In addition to the card reader, ProGrade Digital includes two 45cm (18in) USB cables: one Type A to Type C and one Type C to Type C. It comes with a two-year warranty and retails for $ 79.99.


Update (January 4th, 2019): a previous version of this article incorrectly stated the possible transfer speeds of UHS-II memory cards. While the USB 3.1, Gen. 2 interface is technically capable of supporting 10Gb/s (1.25GB/s) transfer speeds, UHS-II memory cards top out at 312 MB/s (HD312), which would make for a theoretical maximum transfer speed of 624 MB/s if offloading two cards simultaneously.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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AgfaPhoto brand makes a comeback with budget cameras and digital albums

21 Dec

Agfa-Gevaert used to be an important player in the consumer camera space, but the company failed to keep up with digital developments and in 2004 the consumer imaging division was bought out by management and transferred into the Germany-based AgfaPhoto GmbH.

The new company filed for bankruptcy just one year later, however, and these days the Agfa brand is licensed by holding-firm AgfaPhoto Holding GmbH. Agfa-Gevaert’s has completely exited from consumer business and is focusing on industrial printing, health care and information systems.

Now we’re seeing a comeback of the AgfaPhoto brand on cameras, however. The brand has been licensed to French electronics sellers GT Company which has launched three new products for the comeback:

  • 21MP digital compact camera DC5200 with lithium battery for approximately $ 45 (39 Euros)
  • Digital Instant Camera Insta Shot IS210 that captures and prints 2.1’’ x 3.4’’ images for $ 113 (99 Euros)
  • A range of digital photo and video albums that range from 2,4” to 10” in display size and can store up to 4000 photos and 90 minutes of HD video. Prices range from $ 45 to $ 113 (39 to 99 Euros).

If these new rather simple models don’t quite tickle your fancy, have a trip down memory lane and take look at the Agfa digital cameras from times gone past on our camera hub.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Deliver Digital Images to Your Clients

20 Dec

The post How to Deliver Digital Images to Your Clients appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.

Whether you are an enthusiast, beginner photographer or an established professional, all photographers produce images. Regardless of whether you are sharing or selling images, or working on a commission, you need to get your image to the destination. Beautiful images need a delivery method in a format that people can use. That’s where things can get technical and a bit tricky.

Santa’s little helper

Considerations

There are many considerations to factor into how and what you provide to your client, including how to get them into your client’s hands as quickly as possible. Everyone has busy lives and getting together can be difficult.

For the image itself, you need to consider format, file size, resolution, and color space. Are you sending proofs? Are you using a watermark?

Once you have decided that, the next question is the delivery method. For people selling their images, consider what you want to happen after you send your client their images. Do you want to sell prints or albums after an initial proof set? What about images for social media?

Christmas is often a time crunch for delivery of images

So many details

In this age of digital media, it seems easier than ever to deliver digital media. But, is it? Nowadays, modern digital cameras create high-resolution images anywhere from 16-megapixels to 50-megapixels. Larger megapixel images correspond into larger file sizes. The problem with higher resolution image files is it taxes our ability to send and receive the images. So, where do you start? Let’s consider the file size and space followed by delivery options.

Modern digital cameras produce high-resolution images

File size and format

There are many file formats: jpeg, tiff, png and more. As you advance as a photographer shooting in RAW becomes commonplace. RAW shooters often dismiss shooting in jpeg. However, the reality is jpeg is probably the number one format people consume digitally. It is important to remember that most people consume images on digital platforms (few people print images anymore).

Size is the enemy of large-scale delivery

Although RAW is a preferred file format for shooting because of the flexibility it offers in post-processing, it is an impracticable format for digital delivery. Firstly, RAW images need a RAW processor to be able to view them. Secondly, RAW images record exactly what your camera sensor sees. They require some form of post-processing to make them look finished. Finally, the file sizes are enormous.

JPEG at quality level 10

JPEG at quality 2

Not all professional photographers avoid JPEG images. Some high-volume photographers often shoot only in JPEG and many photographers shoot in both RAW+JPEG. School photographers, for example, deal with the logistical nightmare of taking very few images of uncooperative children intended for parents with high expectations. In these cases, the logistics of image delivery is the ultimate priority. If image ordering and delivery are too complicated, there are no orders. Shooting in JPEG mode allows photographers to address this issue. Similarly, some sports photographers shoot in JPEG to allow for quick delivery.

Image consumption

The first step in addressing digital delivery is to consider the end use of the images. If the images are for social media distribution, small file sizes are your best option. If the images are too big when used on a website, the images load too slow, damaging the site speed, and ranking. These limits change with time and technology. However, for the time being, there are reasonable limits to image size you need to work within.

Similarly, many social media platforms (like Facebook or Instagram) automatically downsample your images to a manageable size. Meaning, larger images are unnecessary because that extra data gets discarded.

Instagram is where many images will end up being posted

The format

Printing

When you are printing images, you should consider your image size in both dots-per-inch (DPI) and width and height resolution (pixels). Printers generally use 300dpi (or ppi) as their resolution for printing to paper. This guide is the actual printer resolution which prints in dots, rather than pixels. A handy guide to figure out your photo resolution for printing is this: if you would like to print your photo at 8″ x 10″ at 300dpi; your photo needs to be 2400pixels x 3000pixels (8 x 300 = 2400, 10 x 300 = 3000). You take your size dimensions and times them by 300 (dpi), to come to your pixel size. That means, if your photo is 2400pixels x 3000pixels and only 72dpi, it is fine for printing at 8″ x 10″ at 300dpi. The file size of an image at this size can range from 3-7megabytes, depending on the amount of detailed information in the image. The more fine details it has, the larger the size.

Digital

For digital delivery for social media consumption use JPEG. While it is an old standard, it is the most reliable and compatible image format for all computers (Mac, Windows, and Chrome). It is a compressed format so you can make small file sizes. However, you should be aware that jpeg is a lossy format, which means that every time you edit and resave the image, you lose data in the image. As a final product, this isn’t a problem as long as you don’t edit the image.

There are other formats, that may be technically better; however, they are not as well used or practical. Most cameras offer JPEG as an image file format.

For most social media platforms, the maximum size you really need is 1500 pixels on the long edge. If someone decides to print your image, at the 300 dpi printing resolution, it is relatively small at only 5 inches (remember, 1500 divided by 300 is 5″). When saving your JPEG images, to reduce your overall image file size, reduce the quality number. The quality number is between 1 and 12. 1 is the lowest quality, and 12 is the highest.

Physical media

Gone are the days of recording CDs and DVDs for clients. Most computers aren’t equipped with readers anymore, and both mediums don’t offer much storage. What’s worse is that writable CDs and DVDs are not a permanent medium and degrade over time.

USB memory sticks are smaller, offer larger storage capacity and are more flexible. Memory sticks can be personalized to your brand and allow you to physically hand over the fruits of your labor to your client. Not the fastest delivery mechanism, but the one-on-one contact is excellent for further sales or connections with your client.

USB Media

Basic digital delivery

If you are only sending one or two images, attaching them to an email is an option. However, there are limitations to the size of an email you can send. Email can be unreliable because each email provider and ISP has different attachment limits and they change from time to time. Some platforms allow you to send large files (up to 10-megabyte files), but your recipient’s email provider may not accept the image and often has limits. Emails not received may take a while to bounce back, and your client won’t even know you tried to send them something.

Email as a delivery mechanism

Digital document delivery

Digital delivery of electronic files is not new and has been problematic for many businesses. These businesses need to send documents in digital format to their clients, but these documents are not necessarily image-specific. They are broadly divided into two methods – FTP links or document repositories.

Digital File Repository

FTP stands for File Transfer Protocol and is intended for transferring digital documents. There are many free services for transferring documents, however, you don’t see the images until after they are completely received.  Some examples of FTP services include Sharefile, WeTransfer, TransferNow, and Send Anywhere.

WeTransfer allows for digital file sharing

Some services allow a cloud-based location for your digital files. From the cloud, they can be used to create links for people to pick up documents. Some examples of these services include Google Drive, Dropbox, and OneDrive. These services are great but sometimes require logging in or creating accounts on the platform to allow you access to the images. Often they have a limited amount of space for free, or you can upgrade to more space for a fee.

These services work well, but they aren’t just geared toward photographers solely for image delivery. They transfer documents, and images are simply a type of document.

Photography-specific image delivery

For image specific delivery methods, there are two different approaches.  Firstly, you can use a customized website that allows for a gallery to be set up with your website.  This feature is set-up in the back-end of your website. Secondly, you can use a photography-specific gallery system. These systems allow for the delivery of images with lots of bells and whistles.

A photographic website from Format

Using the back end of your website to create galleries can be a great way to deliver but can be complicated to set up and maintain. Custom-built websites are costly, and any changes usually result in extra charges. More recently, there are some excellent website builder services such as Squarespace, Format, Smugmug, WIX, and WordPress that all provide great pre-made templates for websites that allow you to create galleries for your clients.

I have personally used Squarespace, Smugmug, and Format, however, there are many great platforms. However, you may also be limited to the amount of space you have with your web hosting, and storing large printable files may fill this space quickly.

Pixieset Website Gallery

Another option is photography-specific image delivery systems. These delivery systems are designed with the needs of wedding photographers in mind. There is a need for digital delivery of images in a slick, easy to use and easy to navigate website. Additionally, wedding photographers want a proofing gallery that allows visitors to select favorites, download images for social media, purchase high-resolution images or get prints.

These image-proofing services include such brands as Pixieset, Shootproof, PicTime and Pass Plus. I personally really like this method because it allows for the simple uploading of images into pre-configured galleries that simplify the delivery of images to clients. They look slick, and they let your clients see the images, all while letting you control what they download and how they download. You can also set up galleries for clients to see photos but not necessarily download them. These are all paid services, but if you are frequently delivering images, this method is excellent. I use Pixieset, but Shootproof and PicTime are also good services.

Conclusion

Taking beautiful photographs is often what most photographers focus on; however, the final product is the image delivery. With digital images, there are lots of technical considerations regarding the delivery of images to your intended recipients.  Knowing the format, size, and delivery mechanism simplify your ability to deliver your photographs quickly and efficiently.

What systems have you tried out? What works for you? Let us know in the comments below.

 

 

 

The post How to Deliver Digital Images to Your Clients appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.


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How to Mimic a Digital Cyanotype Using Photoshop with Ease

15 Dec

The post How to Mimic a Digital Cyanotype Using Photoshop with Ease appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

A Cyanotype was a popular film printing process that gave an appealing, beautiful cyan-colored tone to an image. Sounds nice right? Would you like to create one? Don’t worry – you don’t have to go back to the darkroom or become a chemist and waste tons of material to do it. I’ll show you how to create a digital Cyanotype using Photoshop.

EXTRA TIP: Because you achieved a Cyanotype by applying light-sensitive emulsion onto the paper (or surface) you were going to print on, the first thing you need is a background that mimics this effect. If you’re feeling crafty, you can buy yourself a brush, some paint and physically do your background. Then scan it and make it the size and resolution that better fits the image you’re going to use.

However, if doing so is a hassle, you can create your background digitally. Because I promised you digital Cyanotype, I’ll show you the latter.

Step 1:

First, pick the Brush tool from the Toolbox. Here, you’ll be able to pick the size and type of brush. From the Options Bar that is now active, choose your color. Select a brush with a wide tip, like a fan, so that the effect emulates brushstrokes and not a pen or a marker. The brush size depends on the size of your document.

It’s okay to make it uneven. Remember, the original method used hand-made techniques, so uneven gives it a nice unique look. For now, use black because the tone is applied later. Since we’re discussing color, I’ll use this space to tell you that, in my experience, any photo with a black or dark background blends easily. However, it’s possible to use any image.

Step 2:

Open the image you are turning into a Cyanotype and desaturate it. To achieve this, you need to go to Menu -> Adjustments -> Image -> Hue/Saturation. Move the Saturation slider all the way down to the left.

Once you have your image, drag it into the canvas where you created the brushstroke background. It gets pasted as a new layer in that document. Drag the corners to make it the right size for your background and click on the check mark to apply.

Step 3:

Select the layer with the brushstrokes and add an Adjustment layer of Levels. Move the black and the middle tones to lighten the color so that your black becomes dark grey.

Step 4:

Next, select the top layer – the one with your image, and add another Adjustment layer. This time choose Color Balance. Here you can make a combination to find the right tone of blue you want. As a starting point, use the ones I’m using: Cyan -62 and Blue +95.

Step 5:

Once you’re satisfied with the color of your image, you can choose to make it less intense by adding another Adjustment layer. Always keep the layer on top selected so that the new Adjustment layer covers all layers. Add a Hue/Saturation Adjustment layer and move the Saturation slider a little bit to the left. Be careful not to go too much into the gray because it may no longer resemble a Cyanotype.

Step 6:

If you can see the borders of the image you pasted, the balance isn’t right. It’s not incorporating well with the background. To fix this issue,  change the layer Blending Mode. Select the image layer and open the Blending Mode menu. Choose Lighten or Screen to achieve a better result.

However, if there is still some evidence of the border, choose the Eraser tool from the Tool Box and lower the opacity. Choose a brush with soft borders and erase so that you can defuse the border and make it a smoother transition.

Your finished Cyanotype

You should now have your finished Cyanotype. I hope you enjoyed the tutorial and gave it a go. Please share your results in the comment section below.

More retro photography techniques

If you like retro photography techniques, you may also find these articles useful:

How to Create a Lithography Effect Using Photoshop

How to Duotone a Photograph in Photoshop

How To Mimic a Cross-Processing Effect in Photoshop

How to Mimic Lomography in Photoshop with Ease

The post How to Mimic a Digital Cyanotype Using Photoshop with Ease appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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First look: Skylum Luminar 3 adds support for photo libraries, Digital Asset Manager to follow

07 Dec
Skylum Luminar 3’s layout.

Luminar’s library is set to open soon, but expect construction to continue through at least next year.

The long-awaited update to Skylum Software’s photo editor adds in-app photo library management, which the company says is the first step toward building out a complete Digital Asset Manager (DAM). Called ‘Luminar with Libraries’, this version more directly competes with applications that organize your photos, such as Adobe Lightroom Classic CC and Lightroom CC. Luminar 3 arrives December 18, runs on macOS and Windows, and is a free update for owners of Luminar 2018.

This version more directly competes with applications that organize your photos, such as Adobe Lightroom

That’s mixed news for photographers contemplating a switch from Adobe’s applications, especially since Skylum has been teasing a Luminar DAM for well over a year (and just barely hitting their promise to ship it in 2018). Acknowledging the situation, Skylum is making further updates to Luminar free throughout 2019.

Luminar 3 is a free update for current owners of Luminar 2018. Owners of Aurora HDR, Photolemur, and legacy products can upgrade for $ 49 until December 18. New preorders cost $ 59 until that date, and $ 69 thereafter. There’s no subscription pricing model.

Library vs Digital Asset Manager

Here’s what Luminar with Libraries offers:

  • The Library component is integrated into the application, not existing as a separate app. It keeps track of all the images you throw at it in a browsable image gallery. Photos can be imported from cameras or memory cards, or you can point Luminar at existing folders on your hard disk. Unlike apps such as Apple Photos or Lightroom CC, Luminar doesn’t squirrel the images away to its own folder or container. It creates a central catalog file to track file locations and edits, but the originals remain wherever you put them in the first place.
  • In the Library, you can rate photos from zero to five stars, mark them as flagged or rejected, or apply any of five color labels.
  • You can create albums and populate them with photos.
  • A few shortcuts act like smart albums, revealing photos based on their capture dates, import dates, and recently edited dates.
  • In the Info panel, a limited set of EXIF data is shown, such as the camera, lens, focal length, ISO, aperture, shutter speed, and exposure compensation.
  • You can filter the library based on any of those attributes.
Filter images based on the criteria the Library offers.

Luminar with Libraries covers the basics of wrangling files and making them easily available for editing, but a full DAM provides a deeper level of interacting with one’s photos. Not included in this release is the ability to apply keywords or IPTC metadata, any kind of text-based search, a way to expose and take advantage of location data, or synchronization of images between computers or devices. The interface for importing photos relies on traditional Open dialogs instead of a way to preview the shots.

Editing Changes

Luminar 3 is still the same editor as it was before, with a few enhancements. Presets are now ‘Luminar Looks,’ which sounds like just a rebranding attempt, but actually rolls presets, LUTs, and some AI-enhanced operations into one-click actions.

“Luminar Looks” isn’t simply advantageous alliteration, but a merging of presets, LUTs, and some AI processing.

More significantly, the inclusion of the library into Luminar makes it possible to apply edits to one image and sync them among many other similar photos.

Sync edits from one image to several similar shots.

The Windows version includes improvements to Luminar’s color management to get consistent color among displays and devices, plus a host of bug fixes and performance boosts.

What’s Next

Skylum plans to release frequent updates throughout 2019 to add features and expand the library’s features. In its Luminar Roadmap, the company lists targets for the first half of the year that include:

  • Improved handling of Raw + JPEG image pairs (instead of treating each part separately).
  • The ability to create virtual copies of photos.
  • A Smart Search feature for locating shots “using keywords, EXIF information, and file names” (suggesting keyword support will be forthcoming).
  • IPTC core data editing and syncing among images.
  • Features that use AI technology “when editing skin on portraits, architecture, removing objects or simply applying masks on your images.”
  • A Lightroom migration tool.

Although Luminar 3 won’t arrive with a fully-formed DAM, as many photographers were hoping, incorporating the photo library into the application is still a big deal. Melding the library and the editing tools in the same environment streamlines the overall workflow. It allows you to work on a range of images quickly, without the hassle of opening and saving individual images (and deciding where the edited versions live). It’s a big reason why people stick with Lightroom or use alternatives such as Capture One, Alien Skin Exposure, or ON1 Photo Raw.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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