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Posts Tagged ‘Camera’

Why You and Your Camera Do Not Always See Eye to Eye

03 May

Your camera captures images with the potential of over 4000 tones between black and white (if captured in grayscale) or 4000 shades of color in RGB. But once the image is captured, the camera’s job is finished. Then the real work begins.

Squirrel Original JPEG - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The shadows of early morning lighting caused the detail in this JPEG file to bury all the important shadow detail in the darkness.

The distribution of these tones is your responsibility. Each one of these 4000 tone levels is like photographic currency. Never leave money on the table. Put them all to good use. Here’s where the histogram comes in.

Squirrel RAW Interpreter - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The RAW file of this same shot had plenty of high-bit range to push around and adjust, making my friend appear as though he were in ideal lighting.

But before you can understand the histogram, you must understand how the image sensor in your camera sees light. Image sensors are linear in the way they capture light. Unlike the human eye, the camera’s image sensor registers light by volume; the brightest light hitting the sensor fills that sensor’s light bucket first, occupying over half the available registry.

This may make mathematical sense but that’s where the problem starts. Your eye isn’t a mathematical instrument and it doesn’t quantify light the same way a digital camera image sensor does.

Camera Tonal Distribution

If you look at the way camera sensors register light you’ll see that exactly half of the information recorded by the image sensor (2048 of the 4096 registers) belongs to the brightest of the six stops of light being captured. The next brightest stop records half of the remaining information (1024 registers) and so on.

By the time the darkest stop is recorded, only 64 of the 4096 light registers are left to record all the shadow detail. Since humans quite naturally recognize detail in even the deepest shadows, we notice a lack of detail in these areas instinctively. Over 25% of the image potentially appears very dark and lacking in detail.

Eye Camera Distribution - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Oddly, this lopsided method of capturing light is referred to as linear in that each successive stop records half of the remaining tones in the photo. This ain’t logically linear to the human eye! If the actual balance of human light recognition were expressed as Gamma, it would be gauged at something more like 1.7 and 2.5, depending on the lighting conditions.

Your eye has a nearly infinitely adaptable capacity to register light and is simply more attuned to recognizing detail in low light than your camera.

Let me restate that – your eyes are designed to see more detail in the darker areas than in the extremely light areas. This is completely backward from the way digital cameras record light. This disparity then presents engineers with a significant challenge; how to transpose a linear index into a non-linear or human system.

Venice Oak - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Venice Oak CR - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Because this image was shot toward the sky on a very overcast day, the darker tones lost all detail. But because the image was captured and saved in the camera’s RAW format, the 16-bit color space gave me the ability to adjust many individual settings, recapturing the scene as my eyes remembered it (above).

Out of the 4096 tones that are captured, precious few are left to record critical differences in the darkest parts of an image. The darker tones (since they reflect less light for the image sensor to use) are crammed into a very small portion of the recorded tonal range.

The result is that the three-quarter tones, those found between black and the three-quarter tones almost always appear very dark and lacking in tone separation. Therefore, images that are not adjusted (in post-production) to display low-end tonality will always print dark in the three-quarter tones. Let me say that again – always. A non-linear tonal adjustment is mandatory if your image is to print correctly.

Longboat Seaoats - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The late afternoon sun off Longboat Key in Sarasota provided ideal warm lighting, allowing me to use the original JPEG format with very few adjustments.

The exception to this statement happens when your image is captured in a controlled lighting environment (like a photo studio) where lights and reflectors can be strategically placed to illuminate shadow areas or when the subject is ideally positioned in outdoor lighting. When carefully arranged lighting is possible, little post-production services may be needed at all. But very few of those ideal lighting scenarios likely exist during your everyday shooting.

JPEG Tone Distribution

Under this controlled lighting JPEGs can produce spectacular results simply because the tone distribution algorithm is designed for ideal lighting conditions. In the absence of ideal lighting though, this algorithm applies the same stock tonal shape to every image assuming that the lighting is perfect.

The result from imperfect (light, dark, or imbalanced) lighting and a JPEG capture is an imbalanced picture containing only a fraction of the editing range of the same scene captured as a RAW image. The editing “elbow room” of a JPEG is severely restricted in color and tone distribution.

St Augustine Tree - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The highlights captured by this JPEG image were too blown out to recover.

St Augustine Tree CR - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The same highlights captured and edited in RAW format allowed me to extract full detail in the highlights while retaining all the detail in the shadows as well.

Here’s where the tone distribution-monitoring provided by the histogram can be used to guide the editing process, even from JPEG images. It’s actually a good idea to regard the histogram as a tone map. The histogram will reveal the ratio of tones in the image residing in the lighter or darker portions of the image.

A Word About Bit Depth

Without getting into a long detailed discussion, it is always advisable to shoot both RAW and JPEG images of every scene. This is a simple setting on your camera that requires absolutely no extra effort on your part but provides a much deeper level of tones to push around and rearrange.

This recommendation follows simple logic; RAW images provide more flexibility to adjust the full range of tones while JPEG images are prefabricated one-size-fits-all interpretations of a scene. RAW images are like film-based color negatives while JPEG images are like Polaroids. Negatives (RAW files) can be adjusted freely, Polaroids (JPEGs) are very restricted.

RAW Tone Distribution: The Phoenix Scenario

In Greek mythology, the Phoenix is a long-lived bird that is cyclically regenerated or reborn from apparent oblivion. Used in this sense, any digital image capture that is apparently “dead” by all appearance can have life breathed into it by powerful image editing software.

Kailua Ranch Before - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Such is the case with this image captured during an overcast day in Kailua Hawaii. Absolutely no detail can be seen in this JPEG image; all appears hopeless. A reject, right? Not so fast, quickdraw!

We’re here to raise the dead, remember? While nothing can replace the correct exposure, don’t throw in the towel on an image that looks too dark until you’ve tried this magic collection of tone tools.

Kailua Ranch After - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Without the extraordinary bandwidth provided by the 16-bit RAW file format, this level of recovery would be impossible.

The image was seriously underexposed and appeared to be hopelessly dark. But when it was opened in both Camera Raw and Lightroom software packages, and the same adjustments applied, identical results were achieved.

Whether the image is captured in jpeg, tiff, or raw format, it can be opened in either of Adobe’s raw interpreter packages, Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom. Within either of these packages, both chrominance and luminance controls are provided that allow you to rearrange tones and shape images extensively.

To open a tiff or jpeg file in Camera Raw, you must first locate the file in Adobe Bridge, right-click on the file and choose “Open in Camera Raw…” You can open these files in Lightroom either internally or by dragging the file onto the LR icon in the dock.

Raw Controls Histograms - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Camera Raw control panel (left) and Lightroom control panel (right). Top histograms belong to the original while the bottom shows the adjusted image. Both software packages offer virtually identical tools to shape and reconstruct the image.

Recognizing the differences between the way your eyes and your camera sees light will give you a head start on adjusting camera images to more closely resemble the look and feel of the original scene.

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Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

30 Apr

A few years ago I become friends with a guy who likes dong infrared photography. It was something that I had tried when I was shooting film, but never quite figured out. My friend had converted an old camera of his and it seemed like a good idea. At the time, I had two old cameras and thought perhaps I could use one of them for infrared. However, the price was too high then.

Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

Port Arthur and the main Penitentiary looks a lot better in infrared.

Move forward to a few years, and after buying a second-hand camera from a friend, I found myself in the same position. I had two extra camera bodies, so why not convert one to infrared.

You can do this by putting a filter on the end of the lens, but from searching around for information, getting the camera converted specifically for infrared seemed like a better alternative.

What is infrared photography

Perhaps before going any further, it might be good to get an understanding of what infrared photography is actually all about.

Infrared photography is the capture of part of the spectrum of light that is invisible to the naked human eye. Infrared light is at the top end of the spectrum and is not visible to the eye, so to capture it with a camera some special techniques and equipment are required.

It isn’t an easy concept to understand, but once you get out there and start doing it, you will figure out what works and what doesn’t.

Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

Late winter at Alowyn Gardens. It never snows here, but the infrared camera makes it look like it had.

Different ways of doing infrared

As with most types of photography, there are various ways to go about it. Infrared photography is no different.

Computer conversion to infrared

You can find ways to do infrared conversions on the computer. There are processes that you can use that will help give you that infrared look, however, it is just a look and won’t be the same as doing it with filters or a dedicated camera. If you are curious, though, you could try this first before investing any extra money into it.

 Filters

leannecole-infrared-photography-0200

Alowyn Gardens again, looking again like winter and snow, or perhaps a frost.

There are filters that you can get to put on your lens that will help you to get infrared-style images. These will let the IR light through to your sensor. The advantage is that you don’t have to give up a camera body to do this. I’ve never tried them, so I can’t comment on how good they are or are not.

Camera

One thing a lot of photographers who love this kind of photography do is to get one of their cameras converted to be dedicated just for doing infrared photography. Some do this themselves, or you can take it to camera repair place to do it for you.

I took mine to a place to get the infrared conversion done. I’m always wary of playing around with the sensor. They have to remove the filter that comes with the camera and replace it with one that will let through the infrared light, and block all visible light.

Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

Late winter at Alowyn Gardens. It never snows here, but the infrared camera can give it that look.

Choosing which sensor filter

You do have to choose which filter you want and some places will give you many choices. Where I sent my camera there were only two options.

The first choice is the 720nm filter. This will give you close to a full infrared effect, but it will allow you to put some color into your images. The second is the 850nm which would give you very rich dark blacks and perfect if all you want to do is black and white infrared.

For me the choice was easy, I wanted to get some of that color. Not all the time, but it was important to have a choice, so I went with the 720nm filter.

Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography - color infrared image

The 720nm sensor filter allows you to get some color, like having a blue sky.

What to photograph in infrared

Like any type of photography, you can photograph anything with an infrared camera or one with a special filter. However, not everything will have the same effect or give you great results. You really need to experiment with it to see what will work.

People

Portraits can be quite weird, and the infrared light does strange things to the skin and facial features. The hair can look funny too and the lips almost disappear. I don’t know that many people would enjoy getting their portrait done this way. Perhaps for a special event or something, maybe. Who knows.

infrared portrait - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

The infrared camera gives Chris a completely different look.

Trees and nature – give your scene the look of winter

Trees are fantastic for this type of photography. All the leaves come out looking white. The more moisture the leaves have the whiter they are in the image. The gum trees in Australia don’t have quite the same effect as trees that are not indigenous to the area.

It makes photographing in rain forests pointless as everything shows up as white and doesn’t have the same effect as it does with a color image. It’s hard to see any definition between the plants.

Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography - b/w of trees and forest in IR

Australian natives are a little different with infrared photography.

One thing I found was that dead trees looked amazing in infrared. If you photograph them surrounded by lots of other trees, or on their own you would get a very different look. They stand out with an elegance that color photography just doesn’t give them.

When traveling around Tasmania with my infrared converted camera I was looking for dead trees everywhere.

dead trees in IR b/w - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

Dead trees on the side of the road in Tasmania.

Architecture

One of the first times using the camera was in the city of Melbourne. I just walked around and took photos of the buildings and streets to see what could be captured in infrared.

The images were disappointing. Once converted to black and white they didn’t look any different than other images done with a normal camera. They did have a quality that gave them an antique look, but other than that there was no discernable differences.

b/w IR architecture - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

St Paul’s Cathedral in Melbourne, it looks like any black and white image, though taken with the infrared camera.

While on that same trip to Tasmania there did seem to be some buildings that were really suited  to infrared, like some old sandstone structures. Places like Port Arthur, where all of the buildings are made of stone, came out looking really good with the camera.

When visiting Port Arthur I took images with the infrared camera and the normal one. Once the photos were on the computer it seemed clear that the ones done with the special camera were by far more interesting. Many of the images were processed, some hand colored and then published on social media. The color images of the same subjects were boring in comparison.

Processing

All the images taken with the infrared camera need to be processed. You may find the sepia quality of the images quite good, but there is so much you can do to them. You can convert straight to black and white or play around with the white balance to get some color in the images.

hand colored IR image of a church - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

A small church in Tasmania, the sky was made blue because of the filter and the stone was hand colored on the computer later.

Experimenting

Really, this is what photography is all about. Get out there with your camera to see what you can capture, what will work, and what doesn’t. Each subject will look different with infrared photography, but you should try every type of photography you can think of to take images and then review your results.

Right now, I’m experimenting with a red filter on the lens. The images are interesting, but I need to try it a lot more.

Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

Cascade Brewery is an old sandstone building that came out well. In the background, you can see the snow on Mount Wellington.

Finally

While it can be an expensive exercise converting a camera to infrared, if you have an old body lying around, then you might want to consider it. You can do a lot of experimenting with it and you will likely not regret getting it done.

If you like the look of this sort of photography, then there are also other options. It is amazing how much the world can change with infrared and it is a great way to add something different to your portfolio.

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Chris and Jordan of Camera Store TV are coming to DPReview!

29 Apr

We’re very pleased to announce that Chris Niccolls and Jordan Drake of The Camera Store TV are coming to DPReview! Over the past eight years, Chris and Jordan have grown The Camera Store TV into one of the best general interest photography channels on YouTube, with a mixture of entertaining and educational content that covers everything from the latest cameras to how not to carry your camera bag.

We’ve admired what Chris and Jordan do for a long time, and we’ve been trying to find ways of working with them for almost as long. So we’re very pleased to announce that as of April 28th, they’re leaving their old gig behind and coming to work for us. Why would they want to do that? In Chris’s words:

“DPReview is synonymous with editorial integrity, and technical accuracy of the highest degree. Jordan and I are excited to combine our expertise and on-screen personalities with the in-depth knowledge and integrity that DPReview is known for”.

They’re not moving to Seattle (that was a little too much to ask) but as of today Chris and Jordan will be creating new videos under the DPReview brand, and we’ll be uploading them to our own YouTube channel on a weekly basis. As well as the entertaining features that Camera Store TV has always been known for, Chris and Jordan will be working with us to create videos that complement our own long-form product reviews.

We hope you’re as excited as we are to welcome to Chris and Jordan to DPReview.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes every week

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make Custom Camera Raw Profiles for Lightroom & Photoshop

29 Apr

Adobe just released a huge update to Camera RAW for Lightroom and Photoshop, which includes the ability to make creative custom camera RAW profiles!

Above is a video tutorial showing you how you can make your own creative RAW profiles for Lightroom and Photoshop, and below I’ve also detailed the process with photos so you can follow along and get started making your own RAW profiles.

Here’s a closer look at the process detailed in the video.

Getting started

To start, you need to open a RAW file into the Camera RAW Plugin for Photoshop. To do this, copy a RAW file to your desktop, and then either right-click the file and choose to open with Photoshop, or while in Photoshop, use the File > Open menu option to locate and open the RAW file (or just double-click it inside Bridge).

Custom camera raw profiles 001

Custom camera raw profiles 002

Ideally you’ll want to choose an image that’s appropriate for the type of look you’re going to create for your profile. For example, if you plan to make a profile for your landscape images, use a RAW file of a landscape for this process.

Make your desired adjustments

Regardless of the image you choose, once you have the image open into Camera RAW you need to create the look you want for your profile.

Custom camera raw profiles 003

You do this using any/all the tools and sliders available in Camera RAW. In the example in the video, I made some adjustments to Split Toning and the point Curve.

Custom camera raw profiles 004

Custom camera raw profiles 005

So my image now looks like this:

Custom camera raw profiles 006

Create your profile

Your look will, of course, be different. But regardless of that, once you’ve created the look you want for your profile, go to the “Presets” tab of Camera RAW.

Custom camera raw profiles 007

At the bottom of the Presets tab is a little icon for creating a new preset.

Custom camera raw profiles 008

To create a new profile, hold down either the Option key (MAC users) or the ALT key (WINDOWS users) while clicking the new preset icon.T his will open the New Profile dialog box.

Custom camera raw profiles 009

You’ll want to name your new profile, just type into the first box at the top.

By default, any sliders/adjustments you’ve made in Camera RAW will be checked in the list below (notice in the example that Split Toning and Point Curve are pre-checked to be included in the profile.)

If for some reason you don’t want an adjustment included in your profile, you can just uncheck that adjustment.

After naming your profile and making any changes to included adjustments, click the “OK” button to save your profile.

How to find and use your new profile

Custom camera raw profiles 010

Back in Camera RAW in Photoshop, you can now navigate to the Basic panel and click the “Browse” icon (circled in red above) to expand the profile browser.

Custom camera raw profiles 011

At the bottom of the browser, you’ll find your new user profile!

The new profile will also be available in Lightroom. However, if you had Lightroom open while you made the new profile, you’ll need to close and relaunch it to reload the profiles.

Once Lightroom is open, go into the Develop Module, expand the Basic panel (if it’s not already expanded), and click the same browse icon that you saw in Photoshop.

Custom camera raw profiles 012

That will expand the profile browser which will look nearly identical to the one in Camera RAW for Photoshop. Then just click to select your new profile when you want to use it on an image.

In either Lightroom or Photoshop, just click that browse icon again to close the profile browser after you’ve made your profile selection.

And that’s it. You’ve now made your very own RAW profile!

Take it a step further

Now, you can stop here, and use this process to create as many profiles as you need to streamline and speed up your editing workflow. But there’s more you can do when creating your custom profiles, and this has to do with LUTs.

If you already don’t know about them, LUT is an acronym for Look Up Table, and it’s a way of manipulating the colors in your image. What LUTs do is remap the colors of your image according to the instructions in the LUT.

For example, you might have a LUT that remaps all instances of the color blue into the color red. When that LUT is applied to your image, anywhere the color blue appears, it will now be red. That’s a very simplified explanation of LUTs, but it gives you the general idea of what they do.

If you don’t care about LUTs and you don’t plan to use them, you don’t need to go any further. But if you do use LUTs and want to include them in your profile, here’s how to do it.

Using LUTs

First, you need a LUT. You can either include a LUT you get from somewhere online or create your own. I can’t go into detail on creating LUTs here, as that’s an entire topic on its own, and there are too many methods for creating LUTs to cover. If you’d like to see one example of how to create a LUT, I’ve included an example in the video above.

Regardless of where you get your LUT, it should be a “.CUBE” file

With your LUT file ready and saved somewhere you can find it, open a RAW file into Camera RAW as detailed above.

With your image open in Camera RAW, the very first thing you need to do is change the RAW profile. The default new is Adobe Color, so you need to change that to Adobe Standard (the previous default profile before this latest update).

Custom camera raw profiles 013

The reason you have to do this is that you need a profile that doesn’t already have a LUT so that you don’t have two different LUTs in a profile conflicting with each other. Prior to this update to Camera RAW, profiles didn’t include LUTs, so using Adobe Standard makes sure there is only one LUT in the profile you are about to create.

With Adobe Standard selected, you can now make any other Camera RAW adjustments you want to include in your profile, just as you did above. After making those adjustments, go to the presets panel and open the New Profile dialog by holding Alt/Option and clicking the “New Preset” icon at the bottom of the window (as detailed above).

With the dialog open, name your preset, and then down near the bottom, click the “Load Cube File” option. With the option highlighted, click it again to open the file browser.

Custom camera raw profiles 014

Find your “.CUBE” file and load it. Once it’s loaded in, you’ll notice some options in that section are now available to edit. The most important options are the Min, Amount, and Max options.

Custom camera raw profiles 015

These options correspond to the Amount slider you get with a creative/user created profile applied to an image.

Custom camera raw profiles 016

This amount slider is ONLY available for creative/user-generated profiles, and this slider changes how intensely the profile is applied to your image.

The slider always defaults to 100. This is the baseline whenever you apply a creative profile. To adjust the intensity of the profile on the image, you can decrease the slider down to a minimum of 0, or increase it to a maximum of 200.

Moving the slider up increases how intensely the profile is applied to your image, and decreasing it, in turn, decreases how intensely the profile is applied.

Now, back to the Min, Amount, and Max settings. These three values correspond to the values of the amount slider.

  • The Min value corresponds to the Amount Slider value of 0.
  • The Amount value corresponds to the Amount Slider value of 100.
  • The Max value corresponds to the Amount Slider value of 200.

What this means is that you can set the intensity levels of the Amount Slider for applying the LUT to your RAW file by adjusting the Min, Amount, and Max values.

Here’s an example. Let’s say I have a LUT, that when applied to an image with no adjustments, makes the image look like this:

Custom camera raw profiles 017

When creating the profile using this LUT, if I leave the Min, Amount, and Max values at their defaults (0, 100, 200), then when I click to apply that profile, by default, my image will look very similar to what you see above.

Custom camera raw profiles 018

If however, I want to change the intensity of the LUT so that when the profile is applied that it looks like this by default:

Custom camera raw profiles 019

I would change the “Amount” value in the “New Profile” dialog to 30. (I’ll explain how I arrived at the value of 30 in a moment.)

When changing the “Amount” value, you’ll also want to consider changing the “Max” value. If you leave the “Max” value at 200, the Amount slider will still work for the profile, and when set to 200, the look will be twice as intense as when the LUT is applied with no changes to intensity (as detailed above).

Custom camera raw profiles 020

If you change the “Max” value to 100, then when the slider is at 200, it will look similar to having the LUT was applied with no changes to intensity.

I know this is a little confusing. What’s important to understand is that by adjusting the Min, Amount, and Max values, you’re setting the default for how the LUT is applied to the image with the profile, and the range of how the LUT will be applied to the image with the Amount Slider.

Now, I came up with the value of 30 by experimenting when creating the profile and the LUT that I used to include in that profile (the process is detailed in the video).

Unfortunately, the process in the video won’t be very helpful unless you create a LUT using the exact same process.

Instead, what I recommend to determine the value you’ll want to use, is to first just create the profile with the LUT and leave the Min, Amount, and Max values alone.

Then, apply that profile to one of your images. If by default the look is too intense, use the Amount slider to reduce the intensity until it looks the way you’d like it to look by default.

Once you’ve found a slider value you’re happy with, make note of that number. For instance, if you reduce the Amount slider to 25, write that down.

Then, go through the process of creating the profile again. This time, when you include the LUT, set the Amount value to 25, and the Max value to 100.

Now, with this new profile applied, by default, it’ll look like you want it without having to make adjustments to the Amount Slider. (This will, of course, vary from image to image, and you’ll likely make some Amount adjustments, but this will give you the baseline you want to start with.)

With this done you can then delete the profile and continue on using your now optimized profile with embedded LUT!

Conclusion

That’s how you create your own custom Camera RAW profiles, and how to include LUTs in them! If you have any questions let me know in the comments below.

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This rare 14 karat gold ring doubles as a spy camera

27 Apr

If you love unusual cameras and happen to have $ 20,000 burning a hole in your pocket, you’ll definitely want to pop over to eBay and check out this fascinating gold ring/spy camera. That’s right. The ornate 14-karat solid gold ring you see above is actually a camera in disguise.

Spotted on eBay by The Phoblographer, the ring is believed to be one of only two in existence, and stands out for the fact that it’s made of solid gold. The other known model, which was sold by Christie’s auctions in 1991 to a jewelry collector for $ 25,000, was merely gold-plated.

According to the seller, the previous owner of this subminiature spy camera was a gentleman who goes by the name Mr. Shibata—a Japanese camera collector. As for who actually made the ring, no one seems to know. Its origins remain a mystery. Here’s a closer look at this extremely unusual ring:

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The ring weighs approximately 44 grams and has a ‘585’ stamp on the inside, certifying it as a solid gold piece. The ornate hand-engraved details appear impressively sharp for its age and, aside from a few scuffs, it looks to be in good condition.

As for the camera tucked away inside, the seller notes that it still functions. It features a variable aperture, a guillotine shutter, clean optics, and uses 8mm film wrapped around a custom film holder as its medium. The ring includes the film holder and a matching 14-karat solid gold cover to help it blend in—although you’ll have to source your own film.

Screenshot of the eBay listing, with a Buy It Now price of just under $ 20,000 USD.

Considering the gold-plated version of this ring sold for roughly $ 5,000 more than this version is priced at, it could be considered a bargain. That said, the lack of history on who created it and where it came from might hurt its resale value if you were considering “flipping” it for a profit through an official auction house.

Regardless, if you find this piece fascinating and have money to spare, or even if you simply want to find out more information, head on over to the eBay listing.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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A photographer has designed and built the first E-Mount film camera

26 Apr

Photographer Alexander Gee has created something pretty cool: the first (to our knowledge) Sony E-Mount 35mm film camera. It’s called LEX, and when it’s finally finished, Gee intends to make the camera’s design files open source so that anybody with a little bit of interest, soldering skill, and access to a 3D printer can built their own from scratch.

The LEX is the result of more than a year of design work, 3D printing, and trial & error, which Gee actually documented on the LEX Optical website. Development began around the shutter mechanism from a Sony a7, and continued from there until he had achieved a working prototype that has been improved upon and tidied up to create the version you see below:

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The current prototype isn’t quite as pretty as the mockups, but it’s not far off either. And more importantly: it works. There are already sample photos posted on the LEX Optical website and more (we assume) to come as development continues. The website doesn’t offer any specific timetable, but Gee does say that he might crowdfund “a small batch of devices before opening the design files up.”

To see sample images, keep an eye on the project’s status, or jump onboard if and when Gee crowdfunds that batch of pre-built LEX cameras mentioned above, head over to the LEX Optical website or follow the project on Facebook and Instagram.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Report: Casio is pulling out of digital compact camera market

26 Apr

According to a report on the Japanese Nikkei website, electronics manufacturer Casio—one of the pioneers in the digital camera segment—is exiting the digital compact camera market. The company generated a loss of 500 million Yen (approximately $ 4.6 million USD) in the fiscal year that ended March 2017, and has come to the conclusion that no market growth or increase in market share can be expected for the future.

Casio had already silently withdrawn compact cameras from markets outside Japan (the last model in our database is the 12MP ZR5000 from 2016) but was still selling digital compacts in its home country until now.

Casio EX-F1 from 2008

The first Casio model in our camera database is the 1996 QV300, which offered a whopping 640 x 380 pixel resolution and a 47-106mm equivalent zoom range. Many of the company’s later models did not particularly stand out from the competition, however. The EX-F1 superzoom (pictured above) was the most notable exception. Its ability to shoot 60 frames per second still images and 1200 fps videos (at a tiny resolution) were unheard of at the time of launch.

Have you owned a Casio digital camera, or do you still own one? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Adobe shows you how to make your own Profiles in Camera Raw

26 Apr

The latest major release of Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom CC, and Lightroom Classic CC unveiled all new “Profiles” to the world, including six new Adobe Raw profiles, over 40 Creative Profiles, and the ability to create your own Profiles if you want to lock your personal style into a preset.

This video addresses the last of those options, showing you how to use Adobe Camera Raw to create your own custom Creative Profiles for use in ACR, LR CC and LR Classic CC. The tutorial was created by Josh Haftel, who cautions users from the get-go on Adobe’s blog:

Keep in mind that creating a profile is rather complex, includes many steps, and should be considered rather advanced: proceed with caution.

If that doesn’t scare you away, the 23-minute video shows you exactly how the process works: step-by-step. And if you’re feeling even more courageous, you can download this free Software Development Kit (SDK) that contains more information and some sample files as well.

Finally, if the original description of Profiles wasn’t detailed enough for you—or if you really want to get into the nitty gritty of how Adobe designed its new profiles system for both Adobe Raw and Creative Profiles—check out this detailed white paper. The paper explains each of the six Adobe Raw profiles in great detail for those who really want to understand what’s going on behind the scenes.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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This Lamborghini is ‘the world’s fastest purpose-built camera car’

25 Apr

A post shared by Nathan Garofalos (@nathangarofalos) on

If you like fast cars and expensive camera gear, look no further. What you see above is a Lamborghini Huracan with a $ 500,000 dollar camera gimbal attached to the front—a machine its creators have dubbed “the world’s fastest purpose-built camera car.”

Created by Incline Dynamic Outlet (IDO), a California-based company that usually specializes in aerial camera rigs, the so-called Huracam was built over the course of ‘many months.’

The frame for this elaborate setup is a $ 200,000 Lamborghini Huracan. Attached to the inside of the hood of said Huracan is a half-a-million dollar camera gimbal setup created by Gyro-Stabilized Systems (GSS) and fabricated to fit the vehicle by IDO. Inside the gimbal is a RED Helium 8K camera with the option to mount multiple lenses—a fittingly expensive camera for an unbelievably expensive camera car.

If you’re wondering how IDO was able to mount the gimbal inside the hood of the Lamborghini, it’s because the Huracan is a mid-engine vehicle. This means the massive 610-horsepower V10 engine sits towards the rear of the car, centered behind the driver and passenger seats, effectively turning the hood of the car into a trunk.

Unmodified, the Lamborghini Huracan has a zero-to-60 speed of 3.2 seconds and a top speed of more than 200 miles per hour. We don’t have the specs on how well it performs with the massive camera attached to the front, but it’s safe to say there’s a slight sacrifice in speed and acceleration.

Below is a gallery of Instagram posts showing off the Huracam in all its glory:

A post shared by The Huracam (@thehuracam) on

A post shared by The Huracam (@thehuracam) on

A post shared by The Huracam (@thehuracam) on

A post shared by The Huracam (@thehuracam) on

A post shared by The Huracam (@thehuracam) on

A post shared by ArmedBandit Media (@armedbandit) on

A post shared by Trevor Thompson (@trevorfromwherever) on

There’s no video captured with the 8K setup yet, but the first snippets shouldn’t be too far away. The team has already partnered up with Sharp Electronics for the first project with the Huracam.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Here’s how to create a super resolution photo with any camera

25 Apr
This is a super resolution image, creating by combining four photos in Photoshop.

We recently tested out the Pentax K-1 II’s new hand-held Pixel Shift mode which combines four images to create a ‘super resolution’ file in-camera with better detail, dynamic range and lower noise. Sadly, it also results in some unwanted processing artifacts.

But you can also create a super resolution photo without using Dynamic Pixel Shift by shooting a series of handheld images and combining them in Photoshop. Super resolution works essentially by sampling a scene multiple times with slight shifts in framing, which allows details to be localized with sub-pixel precision (since shifts are unlikely to be perfect multiples of one pixel). The result is a file with improved resolution, less noise, more dynamic range but no artifacts. The best part is you can do this with the camera of your choosing. For the sake of this example, we did it with the Pentax K-1 II.

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Following a simple step-by-step Photoshop recipe (listed below), we created a super resolution file stacking four images – the same number used by Dynamic Pixel Shift – and one stacking 20 images, just for fun. We down-sampled the files to the original resolution (36MP). Right off the bat, the difference between our four image stack and a standalone Raw file is like night and day.

Similarly, the difference$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-4014–1567822084”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(4014); }); }) between our 4 image stack and Dynamic Pixel Shift mode is also substantial. Areas where Dynamic Pixel Shift displays artifacts$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-4010-939092746”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(4010); }); }) look clean in our 4-stack. This is observable throughout our sample scene$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-4011–1901282620”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(4011); }); }). Interestingly, the difference between the 4 image and 20 image super resolution examples is less noticeable$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-4012–1917693503”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(4012); }); }). While there is some advantage$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-4013–396364473”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(4013); }); }) to stacking more images, returns are diminishing.

You’ll notice we’ve included two versions of our 4-stack and 20-stack: Median and Average, which refer to the stacking method used in Photoshop (described in detail below). Overall, the median method handles ghosting from moving objects$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-4015-104250703”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(4015); }); }) better than the averaging method.

Methodology

There are numerous tutorials providing instructions for creating a super resolution image in Photoshop – this one by Ian Norman on PetaPixel is among our favorites. Distilled down to its simplest terms, there are four easy steps:

  1. Bring all images into Photoshop as a stack of layers
  2. Resize the image to 200% width and 200% height using ‘Nearest Neighbor’
  3. Auto align all the layers
  4. Average the layers by setting each layer’s opacity to 1/layer number (the 1st layer will be 1/1 so 100% opacity, the 2nd layer will be 1/2 so 50% opacity, and the 4th layer will be 1/4 or 25% opacity, and so on).
  5. Sharpen the image using a Radius setting of 2, and a suitable Amount setting (we used 200% for the 4 image stack and 300% for the 20 image stack – the more images you stack the more amenable the composite will be to aggressive sharpening)

Alternatively, for the fourth step you can convert all layers to a ‘Smart Object’ and change the stacking mode to ‘Median’. This can help deal with ghosting from movement in your final image, but can also take longer to process.

Finally, you can resize the final output by 50% width and height (we prefer Bicubic resampling for this step) to get the shot back to its original resolution, but with far more detail and cleaner output. Or, you can opt to save the high-resolution file if you print big, but just keep in mind that for a 36MP camera, that’s a 144MP file. You can always re-upscale a super resolution file you’ve shrunk, and if you use the ‘Preserve Details 2.0’ resampling method in Photoshop to do so, the results are often impressive and hard to distinguish from the higher resolution super resolution file.

Takeaway

You don’t need any particularly special camera to generate images that look like they were taken with a higher resolution, larger sensor camera. Just use the technique outlined here or in Ian’s article.

And if you’re shooting landscapes and cityscapes, you likely already have multiple photos of the same composition captured with changing light. Chances are that due to the wind, natural vibrations, etc., the shots have at least some sub-pixel movement between them (you can always gently nudge your camera between exposures to ensure there’s at least some shift). So why not go back through your library and take advantage of super resolution?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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