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Posts Tagged ‘Budget’

Review: The Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4 is a budget option for Leica users

18 Jan

Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4 (Leica M-mount)
$ 640 (~$ 600 in Fujifilm X / Sony E-mount)
www.handevision.com

I’ve been curious about Handevision’s small range of Iberit primes since Dan and I saw them in person at last year’s CP+ show in Yokohama. Street prices for the lenses range between $ 640-800 for 24mm, 35mm, 75mm, and 90mm primes in Leica M-mount, and a little less for Fujifilm X and Sony E-mount versions, making them relatively affordable by the standards of all three systems.

Designed in Germany and made in China (‘Handevision’ is a portmanteau term – ‘Han’ signifies ‘China’ in Mandarin, while the following two letters ‘De’ represent the first two letters of ‘Deutschland’) the Iberit line is intended to be a low-cost alternative to ‘own-brand’ lenses and established third-party primes, for photographers dipping their toes into manual focus photography.

Key specifications:

  • Focal length: 35mm
  • Format: Full-frame (Leica M, Fujifilm X, Sony E-mount)
  • Manual focus
  • Aperture range: F2.4-16 (In 1/2 stops)
  • Filter thread: 49mm
  • Close focus: 0.7m (0.35m for E/X-mount versions)
  • Hood: Included, bayonet
  • Length / Diameter: 35 / 58mm (1.4 / 2.3in)
  • Weight: 220g (7.7oz)
  • Optical construction: 6 elements in 6 groups

Since I tend to shoot mostly at 35mm, I was most interested in the Iberit 35mm F2.4. So when I found a used copy in Leica M mount in my local camera store recently I decided to take a chance and buy it, mostly out of curiosity. If it turned out to be really good, maybe it would find a place in my permanent camera kit. If it ended up being a dud, I had 30 days to return it for a refund.

Design and handling

Of course, when it comes to lenses, things aren’t that simple. Most lenses shine in some situations and fail in others. Few are stunning at every aperture at every focal distance, and even fewer can shine in every environment in which they could possibly be used – lens design, after all, is an exercise in compromise. And while I was very curious about the Iberit 35mm F2.4 after handling the roughly-machined prototypes at CP+ last year, I will admit that my expectations were modest.

The Iberit 35mm F2.4 can be 6-bit coded to be read as whatever lens you like, with the addition of some dabs of black and white paint into the pre-engraved spaces on the lens mount.

It’s up to you how (or if) you choose to code the Iberit but the Leica Summarit 35mm F2.5 is closest in terms of specification. The 6-bit code is 101011 (1 = black, 0 = white) when the code is positioned at 12 o’clock.

Here I’ve filled in the black spots with craft paint, as an example. The chrome of the lens mount stands in for white because I’m lazy.

Cosmetically, the Iberit 35mm F2.4 (or my copy, at least) is a lot better than those early prototypes. The focus helicoid operates with an impressive smoothness – not quite up there with a new Leica or Zeiss prime but nicely-damped and with no wobble. An integrated focus tab is a welcome addition to the M-mount version of the lens.

The Iberit’s aperture dial is a little dry and could use stiffer detents at its 1/2 stop settings, but it moves between apertures positively enough that I can tell what I’m doing when operating it with my eye to the viewfinder. The lens coatings are bright and even, and nothing rattles when the lens is shaken.

This image shows the view through the Leica M10’s finder with the Iberit at its close focus position. As you can see, it intrudes considerably on the lower-right of the scene, even without a hood.

As you can also see, Carey is a man who enjoys his lunch.

Considering its relatively modest maximum aperture this is a big lens though, (especially by the standards of M-mount primes) and while nicely balanced on an M10, it does block a portion of the camera’s viewfinder – even without the hood attached. Obviously this won’t be a problem with the mirrorless versions.

I didn’t experience any problems with focus accuracy or focus shift – at least none that I can blame on the lens

Despite its low cost and fairly light (220g) weight, there is some brass inside the 35mm. This is most visually obvious in the focusing cam, which communicates focus distance mechanically to the camera’s rangefinder. My sample of the Iberit is perfectly calibrated on our M10 (ie., the camera’s rangefinder and lens’s markings agree at infinity). Throughout my shooting with this lens, I didn’t experience any problems with focus accuracy or focus shift – at least none that I can blame on the lens.

The mirrorless versions doesn’t need the complicated and precisely-calibrated mechanical focus cam mechanism, which probably explains their slightly lower cost.

Image quality

Optically, the Iberit 35mm F2.4 pleasantly surprised me. At F5.6 and F8, this lens is at least as sharp as anything else I regularly shoot with on the M10. There is some very modest vignetting at F2.4-2.8 but it’s barely noticeable in normal photography, even with no lens profile assigned. Barrel distortion can be found if you go looking for it, but it’s unlikely to trouble you except in close-up images of flat planes (i.e., test charts).

The M10’s built-in 35mm F2 (pre-ASPH) profile applies little or no noticeable distortion correction, so this image (shot at F4) is essentially ‘uncorrected’. As you can see, with a medium-distance subject, there’s virtually no distortion to correct.

For the sake of convenience, I manually assigned a 35mm F2 pre-aspherical profile in-camera (the v4 ‘bokeh king’ to be specific), so I could organize my files more easily in Lightroom, but if you want to, you can paint in whatever 6-bit code you like (see the table above for how to do that).

Barrel distortion is trivial to correct manually in Photoshop or Lightroom

The closest lens to the Iberit’s specification in Leica’s current lineup is the Summarit 35mm F2.5 and painting in this 6-bit code leads to effective correction of the Iberit’s close-range barrel distortion when the M10’s lens profiling setting is left on ‘Auto’. If you don’t want to go that route (and I would probably recommend you don’t, given the lack of distortion at normal subject distances), the barreling is trivial to correct manually in Photoshop or Lightroom.

Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4: Sample Images

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Central sharpness at infinity is decent at F2.4, and good by F2.8, becoming more even at F4, before reaching its full potential at F5.6, with good consistency across the frame and more than enough resolving power to create moiré in fine textures. Wide open though, there’s a significant dip in sharpness about two-thirds of the way across the frame, which suggests either complex field curvature or significant astigmatism in that region. At close focusing distances of less than ~1m the Iberit is still capable of resolving plenty of detail wide open, but contrast drops. If you’ve ever shot arm’s length portraits on a Fujifilm X100-series camera you’ll be familiar with the effect.

Shot almost straight into the sun without a hood at F5.6, this image demonstrates the Iberit’s impressive resistance to flare. The lens’s simple 6-bladed aperture creates pretty boring specular highlights (take a look at the sunlight sparkling on the water in the foreground) but CA and fringing are practically non-existent.

Flare is well-controlled, and bokeh wide open is reasonably smooth in the center, although things can get pretty busy and distracting depending on what’s in the background, especially towards the edges of the frame. The Iberit’s simple 6-bladed aperture is more or less circular until around F3.5 before becoming more angular when stopped down. Sunstars are (unsurprisingly given there are only six aperture blades) not among the lens’ strengths.

Conclusion

In summary, the Handevision Iberit 35mm F2.4 is a good lens, which offers solid performance on the Leica M10. It’s relatively sharp in the middle and at the edges of the frame wide open, but not to the point you’d expect from even cheap modern lenses with even faster apertures like the Nikon full-frame 35mm F1.8G. Modern lens design has moved optics forward, naturally. But the Iberit is still a pleasant surprise for non bokeh-fanatics.

It’s very sharp across the frame by F5.6. Vignetting is negligible, distortion is simple and easy to deal with, and I can’t see lateral CA anywhere in my test shots, even with all profiling turned off. There’s a tiny bit of longitudinal CA that shows up as green and purple fringing wide open, but it’s never distracting. Flare was a non-issue in my shooting, which made me happy, because I don’t much like the Iberit’s bulky bayonet-mount hood.

By the standards of lenses made natively for the Leica M mount, the Iberit is something of a bargain

In terms of performance, by the standards of lenses made natively for the Leica M mount, the Iberit is something of a bargain, provided you can live with its size. This is my only serious complaint. For a rangefinder lens, the Iberit is big, with a large 49mm threaded filter ring. In fact while markedly lighter, it’s not that much smaller than Leica’s 35mm F1.4 Summilux ASPH FLE and only about a filter’s height shorter than the 28mm F2 ASPH. Considering it can be picked up new for a fraction of those lens’ MSRP though, I can live with it.

Shot from about 1m away, wide-open, this image demonstrates the Iberit’s rather busy bokeh. Specular highlights get progressively less circular, further away from the center of the image.

The value proposition on mirrorless is rather different. $ 600 is a lot to pay for a manual focus lens from a fairly obscure third-party manufacturer, when so many other options for X-mount and E-mount exist. Canon’s 35mm F2 IS, for example, is easily adaptable to Sony E-mount without significant penalty, and actually costs a little less than the Iberit (not including the cost of a smart adapter, of course…). Sony also makes an FE 35mm F2.8 that will set you back $ 599 and an E 35mm F1.8 OSS for $ 450, while Fujifilm’s 35mm F2 is available for under $ 400.

Ultimately, for photographers putting together an M-mount lens collection on a film or digital rangefinder body, the Iberit 35mm F2.4 is worth a serious look. I found mine used and in good condition for less than $ 300. It’s hard to find any (functional) M-mount glass for that price, even second-hand. For mirrorless ILC photographers though, better value options exist.

What we like:

  • Good standard of construction
  • Pre-milled 6-bit coding pattern
  • Decent central sharpness wide open (becoming excellent across the frame at F5.6-8)
  • Practically no vignetting and CA, minimal distortion at normal subject distances
  • Resistant to flare

What we don’t

  • Large (for an M-mount 35mm lens): partially blocks M10’s viewfinder
  • Soft off-axis wide open (before sharpening up again towards the edges)
  • Busy bokeh at wide apertures (especially towards the edges of the frame)
  • Distortion at close distances
  • Slight softness at close distances

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Kodak Scanza is a portable, budget film scanner that turns negatives into JPEGs

14 Jan

Kodak has launched a new budget scanner that digitizes film and slides. The scanner, called the Kodak Scanza, is compact at just 12cm x 12.7cm (4.7in x 5in), and features: a 3.5-inch color screen, an integrated SD card slot for saving scanned content, adapter trays for different types of film, and an HDMI port for viewing scanned content directly on an external display.

Kodak Scanza, which was introduced at CES 2018, supports 35mm, 110, Super 8, and 8mm film negatives and slides via inserts and adapters. Content is scanned as 14MP JPEGs, though users can enlarge the resolution up to 22MP.

The integrated screen, which is hinged for tilting, provides access to pre-scanning options, such as exposure and color adjustments.

Both Windows and macOS are supported out-of-the-box, and scanned content can either be saved to a compute, or directly to an SD card inserted into the scanner’s built-in card reader. Kodak Scanza will be available to purchase from Amazon for $ 170 USD. Availability and pricing in other regions is unclear at this time.

To learn more about the scanner, visit the Kodak Scanza landing page.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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2017 Buying Guides: Best cameras for any budget

22 Nov

Shopping for a camera with a set budget? No problem! We’ve rounded up our favorite cameras, broken them into price brackets from around $ 500 to well over $ 2000 and listed our favorite choices. So, if you want to give that special someone a holiday gift that won’t bust your wallet, we’ve got you covered.

If you’re looking for a camera for a specific use case, we have plenty of suggestions right here.

The cameras in this buying guide are light and portable, and several feature selfie-friendly LCDs. Generally speaking, you won’t find a lot of direct controls or a lot of customizability, and 4K video is rare, but for those seeking a point-and-shoot experience with better image quality, these cameras fit the bill.

Best cameras under $ 500


The cameras in this buying guide tend to offer more direct controls than cheaper models, better autofocus systems, and some feature 4K video capture as well. Some of them are easy to pick up and use, while others require a bit more work to get the hang of.

Best cameras under $ 1000


Cameras in the $ 1000-1500 price range have excellent sensors (some full-frame), advanced autofocus systems and 4K video capture. Expect plenty of direct controls and customizability and, in some cases, weather-sealed bodies.

Best cameras under $ 1500


As you approach the $ 2000 price point you’ll find flagship APS-C and Four Thirds cameras, built for speed and durability. You’ll also find a handful of full-frame ILCs and DSLRs, with their own unique selling points.

Best cameras under $ 2000


If you’re a serious enthusiast or working pro, the very best digital cameras on the market will cost you at least $ 2000. That’s a lot of money, but generally speaking these cameras offer the highest resolution, the best build quality and the most advanced video specs out there, as well as fast burst rates and top-notch autofocus.

Best cameras over $ 2000

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Photography gifts for every budget

19 Nov

Shopping for a photographer? Whether you are one yourself or not, chances are you could use some ideas. From stocking stuffers on up, we’ve got some photography gift suggestions for every budget.

2017 Holiday Gift Guide: Under $ 50

2017 Holiday Gift Guide: $ 50-200

2017 Holiday Gift Guide: Over $ 200

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to shoot classic beauty product photography on a budget

16 Aug

Dustin Dolby of Workphlo is back with another simple step-by-step tutorial that shows you how to create professional-looking magazine-quality product photography using affordable gear—in this case, he uses two speedlights inside strip boxes, and could have used just one.

For this shoot, Dolby is tackling beauty care products, which he decided to place on white plexiglass because of the subtle reflection this creates. From there, he brings out his trusty strip lights (two of them) and some diffusion material, and begins to “build” his composition. Over the course of five minutes he captures seven different lighting variants and a silhouette (which he uses as a mask):

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He then combines these images to taste in Photoshop, using the mask to cut out his products and picking a color from within the product itself to use as a solid background. The final image looks just like any other classic beauty care shot you might see in a popular magazine:

Check out the video at the top to walk through the tutorial step-by-step. And if you like Dolby’s style you can find more of his tutorials on his YouTube channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How a Compact Camera Can Help You Shoot Stunning Images While Traveling on a Budget

20 Jul

Vacations can be a great time to capture some of the most captivating photos ever, and it doesn’t even require using an expensive equipment to do so. In fact, whether your vacation involves hiking, skiing, snorkeling, a safari, mountain biking, or a scenic road trip, a compact camera can also provide stunning results while traveling, with little effort and without Continue Reading

The post How a Compact Camera Can Help You Shoot Stunning Images While Traveling on a Budget appeared first on Photodoto.


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Going wide on a budget: Nikon AF-P 10-20mm F4.5-5.6 DX sample gallery

04 Jul

Nikon’s AF-P 10-20mm F4.5-5.6 DX is the company’s latest lens specifically designed for its crop-sensor camera bodies. It may have a plastic mount, but with a 35mm-equivalent focal range of 15-30mm, it is a versatile yet affordable lens for those looking for a wider view than the kit lens has to offer without breaking the bank. See how it performs from the inner streets of Seattle to the remote, sandy beaches of Washington’s coast.

See our Nikon AF-P 10-20mm F4.5-5.6
sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Do Freelensing – Budget Tilt-Shift Photography

08 Jun

Photographers are always looking for new and interesting ways to create images. But even as a hobby, photography can be a very expensive venture. Camera bodies, memory cards, bags, tripods, lenses, it can all add up to one seriously prohibitive price tag. But all is not lost! We photographers are a clever bunch, good at developing DIY tricks to minimize costs. One of these is a handy little trick I discovered for budget tilt-shift photography. While it’s not perfect, the technique does work pretty well in simulating a tilt-shift lens without the price of an actual tilt-shift lens.

How to do Freelensing for Budget Tilt-Shift Photography

How to do Freelensing for Budget Tilt-Shift Photography

How to do Freelensing for Budget Tilt-Shift Photography

I knew keeping around an old graphics card would have its uses. The freelensing effect gives the impression that the little nodes on the computer board are buildings in a city.

Tilt-shift…what?

Tilt-shift photography is used to control the part of an image that appears sharp. By adjusting the knobs on the barrel of tilt-shift lens upward/downward (tilt) and side to side (shift) you can be extremely select about the area of focus, allowing for only a very small portion of the photograph to be sharp. By changing the angle of the lens relative to the camera body, you also have greater control in changing the perspective in an image too.

Tilt-shift lenses are often used in architectural photography. For example, if you take a photograph of a building from below, the lines of the building will appear to converge, and it will look as if it is leaning away from the viewer. A tilt-shift lens realigns convergence by moving the lens parallel to the sensor, without having to physically move the camera much further back.

So what is freelensing?

How to do Freelensing for Budget Tilt-Shift Photography

Freelensing is a technique of letting your lens run free of the camera body! Tilting an unattached lens in front of the camera’s docking point simulates the selective focus of a tilt-shift lens. But first things first.

As the proud owner of a camera baby, you may be thinking to yourself, “Is it actually safe to remove the lens from a camera for extended periods?” The answer is yes… and no. While the camera will function fine without a lens attached, there is a greater chance of dust entering the body and ending up on your sensor. That’s why I strongly recommend trying this project out on a spare or old camera you may not use anymore. Sensor cleaning is expensive so proceed at your own risk.

Method

The method for tilt-shifting with a detached lens is fairly straight forward but takes a little preparation. I recommend using a prime lens, because it’s lighter and simpler, with less moving parts. Before detaching your lens, line up the shot and set the camera to manual mode. You may want to use a tripod to reduce camera shake. Meter and adjust your exposure settings and switch the lens to manual focus. Now, detach the lens and hold it about a centimeter (1/2 inch) from the lens cradle.

Have a look through the viewfinder. At first, you may only see blurry versions of the subject, that’s normal! Keeping the lens close to the camera body, and slowly begin tilting the angle of the lens from side to side. Tilting the lens to the right means that the left side of the image retains the most focus, and vice versa.

Take advantage of the light peeking into the gap between the camera and the lens. Achieving atmospheric bokeh and soft light effects are another great reason to try out freelensing. Try taking photographs at different times of the day and under different lighting conditions.

One of the downsides of this method is that achieving perfect focus is almost impossible, but with a bit of adjusting, you can come pretty close. Even the slightest of movements can affect the outcome of the image dramatically, but you will get a feel for it sooner than you might think.

The light leaks peeking through the gap between the lens and the camera body make for some beautiful atmospheric images

Here’s a blast from the past! The contrasting colors and textures of the Tamagotchi and the fluffy blanket make a dynamic juxtaposition enhanced by the freelensing technique.

Conclusion and give it a try

Freelensing is a fun and simple way of experimenting with tilt-shift photography. Once you have a handle on the technique, head out into the world!

Aim to photograph scenes that have a variety of depth. Tilt-shift photography isn’t as effective when used to photograph a scene that is consistently the same distance from the camera. Try looking for subjects that trail off into the distance. Good examples are densely wooded forests, long, straight streets populated with people, fields of flowers or a line-up of dominoes.

Give it a try and share your images in the comments below. I look forward to seeing them. Happy freelensing!

The post How To Do Freelensing – Budget Tilt-Shift Photography by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Photo gifts for every budget: 2016 Holiday Gift Guides

24 Nov

It’s not easy shopping for a photographer. We’re notoriously picky, our gear is confusingly named and the difference between something we like and something we don’t can come down to what seem like trivial details. Trust us, if picking camera equipment was easy, we’d be out of work.

But before you give up and just get a gift card, take a look through our carefully selected holiday gift suggestions, grouped by price range, for the photographer in your life. Don’t worry – we won’t tell anyone if that photographer is actually you.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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