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Posts Tagged ‘Better’

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

12 Sep

sunset photo - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

I have a really cool idea for you. One that is so simple, and yet so amazingly impactful, that if you start utilizing this concept now you will immediately see the benefits in your photography and you will create better photos.

I come across some very common issues in my workshops. One huge problem is that the photos people take are often too busy. The subject doesn’t stand out and there isn’t a clear relationship between the subject and the elements around it.

Or, in reverse, the photos are so focused on the subject, that nothing else is in the frame, so the photo ends up being relatively flat.

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos - forest stream and mossy rocks

Everything within your frame is an element: the expanse and color of the sky, the child playing in the background, the rush of cars behind your subject, etc.

Each element that is within your frame must have a function, a purpose and must contribute to the overall image. If it doesn’t, it shouldn’t be there.

Your job as a photographer is to break down the scene you want to photograph into its elements. Then arrange the elements into an interesting and complementary combination.

rolling hills Tuscany - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

Nature photography by a street photographer

For this article, I have used photos from a project I did in Tuscany. For seven weeks, I stayed in a castle over the winter with my family and a bunch of other traveling families. I spent my time wandering in the quiet hills, photographing. It is an intensely beautiful place.

I am using these photos as examples because I am not a nature photographer. I usually photograph cities, often at dawn, when the light is beautiful and the streets are empty.

So I wanted to show you how I approached a subject I love, but am not super experienced at shooting, and how by using this technique I got some pretty awesome photos.

cemetery in Tuscany - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

I like to always be developing as a photographer, to push myself beyond what I am already doing. So being out in the silent forests and undulating hills of Tuscany on a winter’s morning was incredibly inspiring.

Nature can be notoriously tricky to photograph. Wandering out into a forest with thousands of trees and millions of other elements that all look the same or similar, can be a case of where do I start?

You are not just waiting for the perfect moment to happen and then to photograph it. You are creating the photograph with the elements around you.

castle silhouette - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

I am going to use examples of how I approached organizing the elements in the world around me into compelling photos. So let’s get started!

Shapes and Lines

The first example is the photograph below, made almost totally of interesting shapes and lines. Can you see them? These lines and shapes were the elements I used to create the image.

One day, I was walking along this path and the first thing that piqued my interest was the lines that the path created.

rural path and stone wall - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

They are really strong, so I started to play around with them. From further away the lines were pretty straight and not very interesting, just heading off into the distance. However, as I started to get closer to the curve of the path, the lines of the path started to turn. Then the fence started to come into play and echo the twist of the path. I thought that was interesting.

Now another element I worked into the shot (and I took a lot of shots of the path, going from left to right, and moving further away) was the wall. What a cool wall! The relationship between the chaotic, curved fence, the smooth curve of the path, the strong lines of color, worked really well with the element of the heavy stone wall made up of oblong or square shapes.

So, from an elements perspective, this photo is almost entirely made up of lines and shapes, placed together to form an interesting composition.

My final flourish (and I like to do this in my images because I don’t always want the photo to be too clean) is waiting for the rise of mist. This creates a pleasing contrast to the organized shapes, a little bit of nature and wildness.

Silhouettes

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos - trees in silhouette

Onto my next image. What do you think are the strong elements in this photo above?

Most obvious are the silhouettes of the trees. I was very inspired by the beauty of the sky. The soft pinks and blues, the sun and the little stretch of clouds. But photos of skies, of really simple things, can be pretty boring. So I was trying to move beyond just pretty.

What I love about photographing silhouettes of bare trees is how they add such strong and intriguing shapes to photos. The branches can look wild and chaotic, but they are also contained and ordered by their structure.

I could have taken the photo of the trees against the sky as it was – two very strong elements of sky and trees. But I wanted to add a more grounding element, something that didn’t really look like an important element, but somehow brought it all together.

For that, I have used the view of the forest running along the bottom of the image. And of course, the brilliant sunburst is important.

Detail

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos - signs in the forest

In the photo above is a detail shot, where I honed in on an interesting, simple element. Detail shots are a gift in nature photography, as there is so much you can focus on up close.

But I didn’t want it to be too simple, I didn’t want to just have the sign as to me it wasn’t that interesting. So I used a shallow depth of field to create an attractive, out of focus background of color and indistinct shapes.

I think that this adds a nice bit of depth to the photo. Plus, I have a couple of pine cones sticking out in the front. Again this helps my image from being too clean and organized, but reflect a bit of that wild nature feeling.

Build with the Elements

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

The photo above is an excellent way to illustrate this idea of building your photo with the elements around you. I saw the tree and I liked the shape of it. But to photograph a tree against a pretty flat blue sky – with not even any interesting cloud formations behind it – would have made a dull photo.

I looked around to see what else I could bring into the shot to make it a more appealing scene. What other element was in my surroundings that could be used to add depth and complexity to the image?

I saw a bush with small, pretty little leaves, and decided that this would make a nice framing element for the tree. Using a shallow depth of field ensured the bush was an interesting frame, but not in focus, and thereby it created a feeling of depth to the image.

road in the trees - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better PhotosA road to…

Put it all together

The key is – you don’t just go shooting. When you find something interesting that you want to shoot, don’t just raise the camera and snap. No! You need to stop and look around.

What elements are jumping out at you? What shapes are being made by the light? Look at the different parts of the scene. Ask yourself – what happens to these shapes when I move over here?

Pause, look around, organize your position, and then start shooting.

Now – look at the photo below and tell me what is the subject, and what are the supporting elements?

house in a field - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

If you picked the houses as the subject, you guessed correctly! Can you tell me what the next most significant element is?

Of course, it’s the mist! I’ll tell you why. If the mist wasn’t covering much of the rest of the photo, the landscape would be in equal focus and therefore very confusing to the eye. The house would just blend into the landscape and it would be a flat, undynamic shot.

So part of understanding about elements is knowing when to shoot, where to shoot and how to shoot your subject.

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

So there you go! Those were my ideas on how to break the world down into elements. I would love to know what you think. Was it useful?

Please let me know in the comments below what you think.

The post How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

06 Sep

If you think that bridal portraits are a thing of the past, you are greatly mistaken. Bridal portraits have taken on new life in the wedding photography industry and are every bit as important as they were before.

bride in three poses - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

What are Bridal Portraits?

Bridal portraits were once taken in a studio, and subsequently when faster and lighter cameras were made available, on location. This is where the bride dresses up in her day-of wedding dress and poses alone. Sometimes the groom would join her.

The photographer would then take several poses of her with her bouquet and veil. So basically, it’s a chance for the photographer to take their time and photograph the bride in many different poses.

Tips for Better Bridal Portraits - two photos of brides in a pink room

This bride was in her home next to a big sliding glass door that let in light even though it was raining.

Now, bridal portraits are taken during the wedding day, thanks to digital photography. Usually right after the bride is done getting ready or during the bride and groom portraits.

It’s a good idea to take portraits during both times to get a more diverse set of bridal portraits, especially if each location is different than the other.

bride on location - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Same bride as the one above, this time at the location we photographed the bride and groom photos. It provides a different feeling and look than the ones taken in her home.

Ask the bride to have a little more time during the getting ready and bride and groom portraits so that you can focus on her. She will appreciate the gesture, knowing that you are going to capture her as a beautiful bride on one of the happiest days of her life.

Why are they important?

Bridal portraits are such an important part of the photographic timeline because each bride takes a lot of time to find the right dress, the right look, and choose just the right bouquet for her wedding day. As the photographer, it’s your job to photograph these details with a lot of attention if they hold a particular meaning to the bride.

bride near a window - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

I used window light through sheer curtains in a hotel room to create a soft light on the bride’s face.

For example, her something blue might be a ring that her mother wore and gave to her on her wedding day. There might be something special on the bottom of her shoes or tied to her bouquet. All of these details are important during bridal portraits and you need to get detail photos of each.

bride by a window, her shoes and bouquet - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Bridal portraits are also a great time to get the bride completely alone so that she can have some breathing room before the big day starts.

It’s a great way to quiet the nerves and focus on her and how happy she looks.

bride reading a letter b/w - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

A special moment in between posed portraits. The bride reads a letter the groom wrote for her.

Bridal portraits aren’t just for the bride alone, though, sometimes the groom will join in as well. This gives you the opportunity to create really solid portraits of the couple together on their wedding day without anyone else present.

bride details - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

bride holding her veil - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

When you take bridal portraits on the day of the wedding, be sure to ask your clients for extra time so that you can make sure that you get enough of the bride alone, the bride and groom together, and all of the important details the bride and groom will be wearing.

Bridal portraits inside

Brides usually get ready inside a hotel or in their home. If this is the case, carve out some time before she has to leave to get the bride alone.

Take her to another room where there is sufficient window light. Window light is the best, in my opinion, because it gives you enough light but also casts off into the room allowing for shadows to define silhouettes.

Sit the bride down on the edge of a chair and have her face the window. Change it up and have her stand full frontal toward the window. The poses and variations are endless and you’ll have beautiful soft light to give her a glow.

bride 3 photos - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Use window light and if need be, fill flash bounced off the ceiling to create a soft light on the bride’s face.

In some cases, especially in the home, you can take the bride to other rooms or locations within the home that offer more options. Like the photo above, where I took photos of the bride in her living room in her house. I did use flash to bounce light since it was raining that day, however, she is calm and relaxed.

getting ready - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Here we see a detail photo of her dress as well as the bride sitting below her grandparent’s wedding photo.

Don’t be afraid to move furniture if you have too. It’s best to move furniture than working around it and missing the opportunity for a great photo. Just make sure that you put it back as you found it.

On location

When you’re out photographing the couple’s portraits, don’t forget to get individual portraits of each, especially the bride. On location may offer better opportunities to get the full dress from both front and behind.

Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Take individual portraits of the bride and groom if they opt to have the bridal portrait session together.

If the bride has a long veil, you can play with lifting it into the air and dropping it to get some really interesting photos. Having her hold her bouquet and getting up close makes for a great photo.  Capture her shoes in action as well, especially if she has put something special on the soles.

outdoor bride - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Being on location gives you more room as well to have the bride walk, turn, spin, and have fun. Photograph her in different types of lighting and backgrounds. Experiment with close up photos as well as full-length photos.

Try lifting and having the veil blowing in the wind. Letting the bride move around a bit can loosen nerves and get the bride comfortable in front of the camera.

Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Bridal portraits before or after the event

As important as bridal portraits are on the day of the wedding, sometimes you’ll have the opportunity to photograph the bride before or after the wedding. Many photographers call this a “day after session” or “trash the dress”.

Tips for Better Bridal Portraits - hawaii

These two photos were taken during the wedding day.

couple on the beach - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

The same couple as the previous photo but the day after their wedding. The photos are more relaxed at a different location, and with different styling.

Bridal portraits are important on the day-of because of all that day’s details, however, portraits taken either before or after the day of the event can offer clients a chance to have a more relaxed look.

The bride may wear her hair differently and use perhaps a different dress altogether. Giving you more opportunities to pose her differently and add to the photos taken on the wedding day.

Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Photos were taken the day before the event.

Taking the bridal portraits before or after the wedding can also give you the opportunity to photograph in an entirely different setting than that of the wedding day. Giving you more creative freedom while the couple is more relaxed.

sunset beach photos - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Two photos were taken the day after the event.

It’s not just about the bride

More often than not, the groom may join the session as it gives you more time to create more portraits of the couple as well as individually. Focus on taking details of both the groom and the bride.

couple kissing - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

When the couple poses together, you have more time to allow them to just be themselves, especially if you are doing a before or a day after session.

couple with antique classic car - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Try offering the couple something more of a stylized photo session so that you can use props to tell more of the story. This will give them an entirely contrasted look compared to the one that they are going to have on their actual wedding day.

couple near lily pond - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

In conclusion

Bridal portraits are growing in popularity both on the actual wedding day and before or after the event. Having this extra time to photograph the bride alone can add to the collection of photos that you will deliver to her allowing her to remember how she felt that day.

couple by Hard Rock cafe - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

In addition, bridal portraits offer the opportunity to capture all of the important details that the bride took so much time to choose. Bridal portraits let you capture the bride in a more intimate way both individually or with her groom.

couple on the beach - Tips for Better Bridal Portraits

Take advantage of this time and allow your creativity to flow so that get some really amazing photos of the bride either before, on, or after her wedding day.

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Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III, which is the better buy? Hint: it’s too close to call

30 Aug

Battle of the ‘budget’ full-frame mirrorless

The Nikon Z6 and Sony a7 III are two cameras with much in common including 24MP full-frame sensors. If you’re looking to sink your teeth into the world of full-frame mirrorless, these two represent the most-affordable current models on the market, with body-only MSRPs of around $ 2000.

But the Z6 is a first-generation product for Nikon, while the a7 III is Sony’s third go at a ‘budget’ full-frame offering. How much does this matter? Let’s dig in!

Note: Our impressions on the Z6 are largely based on limited experience of using (but not shooting with) a pre-production model, plus significant time spent shooting with pre-production samples of the higher-resolution but operationally very similar Z7.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: Image quality

Both of these cameras make use of 24MP full-frame sensors. The Sony a7 III’s sensor offers excellent low-light image quality, excellent dynamic range and best-in-class JPEG noise reduction. Our full review also notes improvements to color – specifically skin tones – over past Sony full-frame cameras.

We’ve yet to test the Z6’s sensor, but if past Nikon 24MP full-frame sensors are any indication, we also expect excellent image quality. Generally speaking we prefer Nikon colors to Sony colors but the Sony may have an advantage when it comes to retaining detail while reducing noise at high ISOs. Still, it’s too soon to tell which camera will end up with the upper hand, so for now, it’s a toss up in the IQ department.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: Video

Neither of these cameras is a slouch when it comes to video. In fact, the two have more in common than not, including: over-sampled 4K/24p video using full sensor readout, useful tools such as focus peaking, microphone and headphone jacks, in-body stabilization for hand-held shooting and a 1080/120p mode for slow motion work.

For more experienced filmmakers, there are some important differences though: The Z6 can output 10-bit log over HDMI, while the a7 III cannot. On the other hand the a7 III can record 8-bit HLG and S-Log2 in-camera, while the Z6 cannot.

Another area where the two cameras might vary is AF tracking in video. As noted in our a7 III review, the tap-to-track function uses Sony’s old Center Lock-on AF algorithm, which is somewhat unreliable and requires a combination of unintuitive button presses to engage. Conversely, based on our impressions shooting video with the Z7, Nikon’s tap-to-track is both easy to use and very reliable. Whether that proves true in use (bearing in mind that the Z6 features a slightly different AF system to the Z7) is something we’ll establish once we receive a reviewable camera.

Overall, both the a7 III and Z6 offer compelling video packages, but provisionally, we’re going to give the Nikon the nod for what’s likely to be more usable video AF.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: AF

Both the Nikon and Sony offer impressive on-sensor autofocus point coverage. The Z6 has 273 PDAF points covering 81% of its sensor, the Sony has 693 PDAF points covering 93% of the frame. In terms of usability, both have AF joysticks making point selection painless. But the Nikon AF points are illuminated in red, making them substantially easier to see than that of the Sony’s (which only illuminate slightly when focus is confirmed).

Face detection modes are offered in both cameras, but only the Sony offers Eye AF which locks focus on a subject’s eye with incredible precision. For stills mode, we also prefer the Sony’s through-the-viewfinder subject tracking, which is easy to use and very reliable. The Z6 on the other hand does not inherit Nikon’s excellent 3D Tracking. Tracking through the EVF is clunkier than it is on Nikon DSLRs and requires pressing the OK button to reset and switch subjects – this is annoying and can cost you shots.

We’re calling it in favor of Sony when it comes to autofocus through the EVF. If Nikon manages to squeeze 3D Tracking into the Z6 via firmware, we’ll reconsider. Until then, the Sony’s seamless tracking, excellent Eye AF and more precise AF point spread give it the advantage.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: Usability

We realize that a camera’s usability or lack thereof depends on the photographer operating it and their needs. But there are some notable UI differences between the Z6 and a7 III.

The a7 III has Sony’s latest menus, which have been cleaned up over previous versions, but we still find them a bit confusing and redundant. The camera offers a good level of customization, but requires a decent amount of time spent setting it up to really get the most out of it. The touchscreen is a disappointment: it has limited use when it comes to changing camera settings/navigating the menu and is overall, unresponsive.

The Z6 inherits its (also pretty complex and often confusing) menus from Nikon DSLRs and largely functions like a Nikon DSLR except for its AF modes, which are inherited from the Coolpix line. Like the a7 III, it also offers a good level of customization, but in our opinion it’s an easier camera to simply pick up and shoot with. The Z6 also offers a top plate info panel – the a7 III does not. And unlike the Sony, its touchscreen can be used to change camera settings and navigate the menus.

Overall, both cameras are very usable, but the Nikon’s better touch operation makes it the winner.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: Body design

The Nikon Z6 and Sony a7 III are remarkably similar in terms of size and weight – the Sony is 25g lighter, 7mm narrower, 5mm shorter and 6mm thicker. And while both cameras are weather-sealed, the Sony lacks proper sealing on its bottom battery door (the Nikon battery door is well-sealed) which is something to consider if you shoot in wet conditions.

Grip preference is obviously very subjective, but as a staff, we prefer the Z-series grip to that of the a7 III. However, the Sony offers dual SD card slots, (only one is rated for faster UHS-II memory cards), while the Nikon offers a single XQD slot (but will support CFexpress media in a future firmware update). Does this matter? That depends on how and what you shoot. Judging by the comments on our Z7 launch content, for a lot of you it’s a deal-breaker.

Overall, we really like Sony’s dual slots, but appreciate the Nikon’s comfier grip, top plate info panel and more robust sealing. Still, we’re calling this one a toss up.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: Lenses and mount

At launch, the Nikon Z6 will have three available native lenses, shown above.

Nikon’s new Z mount is larger than Sony’s E mount by a good margin (55mm vs 46.1mm) and has a shorter flange distance (16mm vs 18mm). So what does this actually mean? Well, in theory it means that Nikon will be able to put out faster glass because their lenses will be less constrained by the limitations that the E-mount’s comparatively narrow throat imposes. This also means the Nikon Z might become the most adaptable camera ever, since it has the shortest flange distance we’ve ever seen.

On the other hand, right now there are only three native Z lenses available for the Nikon Z6 whereas the a7 III can make use of 25+ native Sony lenses as well as an ever growing list of third party lenses. Then again, thanks to the $ 250 FTZ adapter ($ 150 for a limited time if bought with a Z camera) the Z6 will work with most F mount lenses, autofocus and all.

Again, though, this one is also a toss up. The Nikon clearly has the more versatile lens mount for those looking to invest in a system today – the Sony has more native glass to offer, sans adapter.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: EVF & LCD

The Nikon Z6 has a a 3.68M dot electronic viewfinder with 0.8x magnification, compared to the Sony a7 III’s 2.36M dot EVF with 0.78x magnification. That difference in EVF resolution gives the Nikon a crisp and clear advantage. It’s also worth noting the Nikon doesn’t appear drop its EVF resolution when in shooting mode, while the Sony does.

And while both cameras have tilting LCDs, the Nikon has a larger, higher-res screen: 3.2″ and 2.1M dots compared to 3″ and 922k dots. Overall, Nikon is the winner when it comes to EVF and LCD.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: Performance

In terms of speed, both cameras offer solid burst rates for anyone wishing to capture sports or action. The Sony a7 III can shoot up to 10 fps with AF compared to 12 fps on the the Nikon Z6. But the Sony has the Nikon beat when it comes to battery life, pumping out 710 shots per charge (CIPA rated) compared to a measly 330 shots per charge (CIPA rated) on the Nikon. We assume that like the Z7, the Z6 will be able to shoot for a great many more photos than that on a single charge for most people’s normal use, but so does the a7 III.

Due to the better battery life Sony gets the nod in the performance department.

Nikon Z6 vs Sony a7 III: Conclusion

It’s almost as if Nikon developed the Z6 intending to match the a7 III spec for spec. Of course, we know this isn’t true since the Z system has been in development for years. Still both cameras make a compelling case for your cash – such a compelling case, in fact, that picking a winner is far too difficult until we’ve fully tested the Z6. Until then, here’s a quick recap of how they stack up:

Both cameras should be capable of excellent image and video quality. But the Nikon Z6 has a better EVF, more responsive/high-res touchscreen, probably better video AF and a more versatile lens mount, including excellent near-native support for legacy F-mount lenses. On the other hand the Sony a7 III appears to offer a better autofocus experience for stills shooters, better battery life and obviously far more native lenses at launch.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Which is better: Nikon Z7 vs Sony a7R III

29 Aug

Mirrorless compared: Nikon Z7 and Sony a7R III

Nikon has finally announced its first full-frame mirrorless camera, the Z7, and it probably won’t come as any surprise that it’s poised to take on the current high resolution mirrorless king: the a7R III. But, as closely as these cameras may appear on a spec sheet, there are some notable differences in addition to the similarities.

At a high level, both models offer the maximum resolution within their respective product lines, with the Z7 capturing 45.7MP while the a7R III captures 42MP. Each is also designed with both still photography and video in mind, with Nikon leveraging its new mirrorless platform to include video features not found on its DSLRs. Even their prices come in at a similar point, with the a7R III body retailing for $ 3200 while the Z7 lists for $ 3400.

On the following pages we’ll look at some specific comparisons between these two models to see where the similarities end and the differences begin.

Body and design

One of the things Nikon has done very well on the Z7 is to make the camera feel like… a Nikon. Its build quality is on par with the company’s mid-range DSLRs, it includes a large comfortable grip that should make most Nikon users feel right at home, it has well-placed buttons and includes as a joystick controller on the rear of the camera.

Sony’s mirrorless Alpha series has now gone through three generations of design and has reached a point where it’s feeling pretty mature. In particular, the a7R III gained a larger, more comfortable grip than earlier models and also includes a joystick controller on the back. But among our team the consensus is that the Z7 is more comfortable to use, not the least because Sony’s bigger grip is still far too small in height to fit most hands, causing increased fatigue over extended periods of use.

Both cameras claim to be weather-sealed, but the Nikon’s weather-sealing feels more substantial all around; It also includes seals around the battery door, something notably absent on the Sony.

The Z7 also includes a top plate information display, a feature carried over from Nikon’s DSLR designs, though now it’s an OLED panel instead of LCD; It’s something which may appeal to users moving over from a DSLR body.

We’re inclined to give the nod to Nikon in this particular comparison, though we realize that ergonomics represent a highly personal preference.

User interface

Nikon tells us one of its design priorities on the Z7 was to provide a seamless transition for Nikon users migrating from its DSLRs, and this is clearly reflected in the Z7’s user interface. The camera inherits its menu system directly from Nikon’s DSLRs, and the Z7’s menus are virtually identical to those on the D850, which we found generally easy to operate. In contrast, although Sony’s menus have evolved and are easier to navigate than in the past, they can still be a bit confusing or occasionally leave you searching for that one feature you know is hidden somewhere. Both cameras offer customizable ‘My Menus’, mitigating this issue.

Both cameras also include a rear touchscreen. The Z7 embraces its touchscreen, letting you use it for numerous functions including setting the AF point, interacting with the menu, and smoothly zooming and navigating through images in playback mode. It also enables a touch-friendly version of Nikon’s customizable ‘i’ menu, which lets you quickly change settings by tapping the screen. One curious omission is that the rear LCD can’t be used as a touchpad to control the AF point when holding the camera to your eye. Overall, however, we’re impressed with Nikon’s touchscreen implementation, which feels as though it’s an integral part of the camera’s design.

In contrast, the a7R III’s touchscreen feels like an ‘add on’. Sony’s decision to disable it by default only speaks louder to the issue that the touchscreen on Sony cameras is, currently, almost a nuisance. It doesn’t offer enough benefit to outweigh the negatives of accidental to touch operation.

Sure it includes a touchpad mode for moving the AF point with the camera is to your eye, but it’s cumbersome and unintuitive at best. Yes there’s the ability to tap on the rear screen to set the focus point but, again, it’s unresponsive and unintuitive at best, giving the sense that it’s been bolted onto the system rather than designed to be part of the user experience from the product’s inception.

Both cameras provide numerous options for customization, though we think most people will find the Nikon easier to pick up and use without spending a lot of time setting up the camera. However, the Sony certainly gets points for very deep features and customization options to meet your needs. There’s not a clear winner here – each provides advantages depending on how you plan to use the camera – but if we were forced to choose one overall implementation, it would be the Nikon.

Image quality

It’s hard to find fault with either camera when it comes to image quality as both are capable of delivering extremely high quality images when paired with good lenses, and from a practical standpoint the difference in resolution is negligible. Nikon tells us the Z7 uses a very similar sensor to the one found in the D850 (including its ISO 64 mode), and based on our experience so far we expect image quality and dynamic range performance to be similar to that camera. Of course, the a7R III is no slouch when it comes to dynamic range, either, performing similarly to the D850 despite having a base ISO of 100 and receiving a bit less light.

Generally speaking, we still prefer Nikon colors, though Sony has made significant improvements to its color science of late. However, Sony’s high ISO noise reduction is a step ahead, leaving behind a nice random noise pattern while Nikon’s JPEG engine can leave behind ‘rice grain’ artifacts.

We’ll be able to provide an in-depth comparison of image quality once we’ve completed our studio scene tests using Raw image files, however most users should be able to extract beautiful, high resolution photos from either of these cameras, particularly when working from Raw files.

Autofocus

Both cameras provide autofocus using on-sensor phase-detect autofocus systems. The Z7 features 493 phase-detect AF points with an impressive 90% horizontal and vertical coverage of the frame. It also features face detection technology plus body movement (designed to continue tracking a subject even if they turn their face away from the camera), and is rated down to -1EV with an F2 lens attached (-4 EV if you enable ‘Low Light AF’, albeit at the cost of much slower autofocus). Nikon also gets credit for its bright AF points which are easy to see in the viewfinder, compared to Sony’s grey AF points that can be difficult to see against, well, most backgrounds.

The a7R III has 399 phase-detect AF points, which cover a smaller area of the frame than the Nikon, but it also utilizes 425 contrast-detect AF points to provide greater coverage. It also includes Sony’s very effective ‘Eye AF’ system, one of our favorite features on the camera. Using Eye AF, the a7R III identifies and focuses on a subject’s eye, tracking it tenaciously if it moves within the frame. The Z7 doesn’t offer an Eye AF mode. The a7R III is rated to focus, with F2 lenses, at lower light levels than the Nikon (outside of Nikon’s ‘Low Light AF’ mode): an impressive -3EV in fact.

Although Nikon did a good job of translating its DSLR user experience to a mirrorless camera, one feature that didn’t make the transition is its 3D Autofocus system, which we consider best-in-class. Instead, the Z7 inherits a version of the AF system used by Nikon’s DSLRs in live view mode. Instead of simply placing an AF point over your subject and initiating focus, the Z7 requires you to press OK to enable subject tracking, and to press it again to change subjects. By comparison, Sony’s Lock-on AF provides a more seamless experience for subject tracking: like Nikon DSLR 3D Tracking, you simply place your AF point over your subject and half-press to initiate tracking. Eye AF even works in a similar way. This simple method of quickly selecting your subject on the fly is, sadly, completely missing from Nikon’s debut mirrorless, and that will undoubtedly impact fast-paced shooting with high demands on AF performance.

Overall, the a7R III wins here, despite the fact that Nikon has one of the best AF systems on the market in its DSLRs. If it can bring that system, or something similar, to its mirrorless cameras it may well change the equation.

Video

While Sony has a history of including a lot of video features on its cameras, video has typically been a secondary feature on Nikon’s DSLRs. With the Z7, that changes: Nikon is making a statement that it can do video, and do it well.

Both the Z7 and a7R III can record video up to UHD 4K/30p, as well as 1080/120p for slow motion (though the Nikon can only do this from a Super 35 region). One challenge common to both cameras is processing video from very high resolution sensors, though Nikon and Sony have essentially taken the same approach to solving the problem. Each camera can capture 4K using the full width of its sensor, but with limited sampling (line skipping on the Z7 and pixel binning on the a7R III). For best results in 4K, both provide the option to record from an oversampled Super 35 (APS-C) region of the sensor, which adds a crop factor to your focal length but results in very high quality 4K video.

Resolution isn’t everything, however, and the Nikon displays more rolling shutter in its full-frame 4K footage compared to the Sony. Both cameras offer Log gamma curves to support video shooters. In particular, Nikon has added its own Log gamma curve to the mix, and can output 10-bit 4:2:2 N-Log over HDMI. Internal recording is limited to 8-bit 4:2:0 at up to 100Mbps, and internal N-Log recording is not supported. In contrast, the a7R III supports internal Log capture using the S-Log2 and S-Log3 gamma profiles but only in 8-bit 4:2:0 color. HDMI output is also limited to 8-bit 4:2:2 signal, unlike the 10-bit found on the Nikon. The Sony offers an 8-bit implementation of Hybrid Log Gamma for capture and display on HDR TVs and monitors, which is particularly helpful because it’s not as extreme as other log profiles and, therefore, a bit more friendly with 8-bit capture. Furthermore, Sony’s HLG capture mode allows for perfect Raw histograms/zebras, so you can optimally expose your Raws.

Both models also offer an array of features designed to assist video shooters, including focus peaking, zebra warnings, and internal LUTs for use when shooting Log gamma (‘view assist’ on Nikon and ‘gamma display assist’ on Sony).

On the hardware side of things, both the Nikon and Sony include sensor-shift 5-axis image stabilization systems, as well as microphone and headphone jacks for recording and monitoring audio.

Thanks to on-sensor phase-detect autofocus, both cameras have very effective AF when shooting video. While we’ve come to expect excellent video AF from Sony cameras, this represents a significant step for Nikon and we’re very impressed. Video AF on the Z7 is among the best we’ve seen on any camera, dependably focusing on and tracking subjects, matching or even outclassing the a7R III. More importantly, the ease with which you can specify who or what you want to track on the Nikon Z 7 is far superior to what’s offered by any Sony camera, period.

We’ll call this a draw for now since it depends on your specific video requirements and workflow, but we will say that for ease of use, the Nikon Z 7 wins without question.

EVF and LCD

When it comes to electronic viewfinders, the Z7 and a7R III both deliver a high quality experience with 3.68M-dot OLED EVFs, though with minor differences in magnification (0.8x on the Nikon and 0.78x on the Sony).

However, despite the similar specifications, both EVFs are not created equal. The a7R III delivers the full resolution to the EVF in playback mode, but not when shooting, and resolution drops when shooting in burst mode. The Z7, on the other hand, maintains full resolution even while shooting, and uses a relatively complex optical design with aspheric elements and a fluorine coating. In its effort to provide a seamless experience to DSLR shooters, Nikon has created a bright, sharp display that provides an extremely lifelike experience. The Sony, though, has a slightly deeper eye-point, meaning its full extent can be seen from slightly (2mm) further away.

Both cameras also have tilting rear touchscreens, though the Nikon is the clear winner here with a 2.1M-dot screen vs. a 1.44M-dot screen on the Sony. As we’ve mentioned elsewhere, Nikon has also done a better job of integrating the touchscreen into the camera’s overall user experience, giving the impression that it was an integral part of the camera’s design from the ground up rather than a feature bolted on later.

Nikon wins this one.

Card slots and media

One of the more controversial aspects of the Z7’s design is Nikon’s decision to include a single card slot in the camera at a time when dual card slots have been considered an expected feature, particularly among premium models. The a7R III, in contrast, includes dual card slots with a variety of configuration options, including the ability to save all files to both cards for backup, using one card for overflow, or storing Raw files on one card and JPEGs on the other. Though it’s worth mentioning that Sony’s confusing interface for setting up the dual card slots might make you wish it only had one card slot to begin with.

Additionally, the two cameras use different card formats, with the Nikon relying on XQD cards while the Sony utilizes the more common SD format, though only includes support for UHS-II cards in one of its slots. Although Nikon may be somewhat forward-looking in going XQD-only (it tells us the camera will also support CFexpress media in a future firmware update,) if you’ve been using SD cards up until now you may need to budget for some additional memory along with the camera body.

Furthermore, the Z 7 doesn’t write all its files to the XQD card as fast as, say, a D5 – possibly due to the increased processing overhead of large 46MP images – hence the XQD experience on the Z 7 may not feel as finessed as with the D5. That may make you question the advantage of XQD on the Z 7, but it’s fair to say that, for now, XQD is more future-proof performance-wise than SD.

Lens mount and lenses

Nikon’s new Z-mount has a very short 16mm flange distance, slightly shorter than the 18mm distance on Sony’s E-mount, and both cameras have the potential to serve as ‘universal lens’ platforms for adapting older or third party lenses. However, while the E-mount has a relatively svelte 46.1mm diameter, the Z-mount is much larger at 55mm. In theory, this gives Nikon an advantage as it will be able to design fast lenses in the future without working around the constraints of the narrower E-mount.

At the moment Sony does have the advantage. Sony has been rolling out E-mount lenses for a number of years, and several third-party companies, including Sigma, have jumped on the bandwagon. There’s also a healthy ecosystem of E-mount lens adapters that have grown up around E-mount. However, the Z-mount has the potential to be the most adaptable mount ever thanks to its short flange distance, and in theory you could even adapt E-mount lenses to it. Unfortunately, Nikon isn’t sharing technical details of the mount, so third party makers will need to reverse engineer it.

Nikon has presented an impressive roadmap of Z-mount lenses, though only three have shipped to date. However, that doesn’t mean Nikon users will need to wait around for more lenses to appear. The company’s FTZ adapter will allow you to mount over 350 of its F-mount lenses to the system, including over 90 more recent lenses that will retain full functionality when mounted with the adapter. So, even without native Z-mount lenses, Nikon users should have plenty of options to choose from.

Sony probably comes out on top here today, but Nikon’s forward-looking Z-mount may give it a leg up in the future.

Extra features

While there are many differences between the Z7 and a7R III, many of them ultimately come down to different ways of implementing the same or similar features. However, each also has unique features not found on the other.

The Z7 includes built-in focus stacking and multi-frame mode, which provides an overlay of your existing frame as you take a second shot. It also includes an intervalometer for shooting time-lapse sequences and creating 8K time-lapse footage in-camera. This is a bit of a sore point for some a7R III users as there’s no built-in intervalometer and the camera does not have access to Sony’s PlayMemories store to add one.

While the a7R III lacks those features, it does have a pixel shift mode which combines four shots captured while shifting the sensor one pixel at a time. This can produce incredibly detailed images since it essentially eliminates the Bayer pattern on the sensor, ensuring full color data for every pixel, and also has the inherent noise and dynamic range benefits of combining four shots – though it has limited utility with moving subjects.

Performance

The Nikon Z7 can shoot 5.5 fps in continuous drive with live view updated between shots. If you need to shoot higher frame rates it’s possible to do so in High+ mode, which captures 8 fps in 14-bit Raw or 9 fps in 12-bit Raw. High+ maintains autofocus between shots, but locks exposure settings after shooting the first image. By comparison, the a7R III can shoot up to 10 fps with continuous AF/AE.

Speed matters, but so does a camera’s buffer, and the Z7 doesn’t have a large one. It fills up after 23 12-bit Raw files, 18 14-bit Raw files, or 25 fine quality JPEGs. Even though its fast XQD card can clear the buffer fairly quickly, you still notice the limit when you hit it. The a7R III’s buffer can store 28 frames of uncompressed Raw files or 76 frames when shooting compressed Raw, giving it an edge over the Nikon.

Of course, battery performance is important as well, and there are some big differences here. The a7R III uses Sony’s new NP-FZ100 battery, which has a CIPA rating of 650 shots, though in practice we typically see much better battery life than that. The Z7 uses Nikon’s EN-EL15b battery, an updated version of the D850’s battery which is capable of charging over USB. (Nikon says the older EN-EL15a will work in the camera as well, but won’t support USB charging.) Although we appreciate Nikon’s desire to keep a consistent battery format across cameras, there’s a cost to maintaining compatibility with earlier models: the Z7 has a CIPA rating of only 330 shots. We’ll get a better sense of how it performs in the real world as we continue testing, but the advantage definitely tilts in Sony’s direction, by a large margin in this case.

Conclusion

Sony’s early adoption of full-frame mirrorless means that it has owned the category until now, but the Z7 is a shot across the bow from Nikon. Overall, it’s matched very well against the a7R III, and some might argue that it even follows some of the Alpha’s design cues while still feeling distinctly Nikon-like in your hands. Both cameras are capable of delivering stunning image quality when paired with good lenses, so the main differences come down to other factors.

Nikon has done an excellent job of creating a good user experience on the Z7, despite it being a first-generation product. Ergonomics are generally quite good, the EVF is bright, crisp, and responsive, and the touchscreen is well integrated into the overall experience. It also steps up Nikon’s game with respect to video, including very good 4K video, support for 10-bit 4:2:2 N-Log via HDMI and potentially the best video AF we’ve seen on a mirrorless camera. What we really miss, however, is the 3D Tracking system found in Nikon’s DSLRs, which has consistently been best-in-class.

The a7R III has its advantages as well. In our opinion, it still has a better AF experience than the Nikon thanks to Eye AF and Lock-on AF, and its dual card slots will be a significant differentiator for a lot of users. It also boasts superior performance when it comes to continuous shooting and battery life. Sony has a much larger lineup of native lenses for its system, and the ecosystem of third-party adapters that has evolved around E-mount is impressive. Of course, Nikon’s Z-mount has a lot of future potential, but its decision not to share technical details of the mount means third parties will need to reverse engineer it.

The good news is that we now have two companies committed to full-frame mirrorless systems, and that should mean more competition and, ultimately, better products and more choices for consumers.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

08 Aug

Have you ever been stuck in a car or a bus and seen all this great photographic potential passing you by? Fantastic landscapes, funny signs, unusual animals, and stunning compositions seem to always appear when I’m stuck in the passenger seat of a car. It’s frustrating, especially if the car can’t stop to let you capture the view.

A landscape photographed from a car on a highway. - Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

A fantastically colorful landscape by the highway in the Atlas mountains of Morocco.

The Challenge

For someone who actually doesn’t like the idea of just driving through an area and taking photos of it through the window (maybe because it feels so impersonal), I’ve done a surprising amount of it. Often because it’s a now-or-never situation; the view won’t be there later, or I won’t be returning in the near future.

Sometimes I’m on a highway and can’t stop, or there are so many photos I’d like to take that I feel bad asking the driver to stop over and over again. Also, taking photos from a car or bus can be great for people who have a hard time walking.

A landscape seen through a bus window in Iceland. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

I couldn’t resist this view seen through a bus window in Iceland.

In a car, bus, or train, there are many contexts in which it’s inappropriate, difficult or impossible to take a photo. Fortunately, there are also many situations in which you don’t have to leave completely empty-handed. It is possible to take photos from a moving vehicle, but it takes a bit of knowledge and planning.

It’s a suboptimal situation but sometimes you just have to find a way to make the best of it. Most likely it’s better than not trying at all! In this article, I hope to give some tips to help make your trips more enjoyable and creative. Let’s begin!

A house seen from a car in the Rif mountains of Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

The amazing houses and views in the mountains of northern Morocco were difficult to resist, even though it was a bit tricky to compose well.

When to try and when not to shoot

Safety is paramount

Even though trying is almost always better than not, there definitely are situations where you shouldn’t be taking photos from a moving vehicle. Remember that you’re sitting in a metal box moving through space at high speeds!

It goes without saying that you shouldn’t be doing any photography if you’re the driver. But as a passenger, you also need to be aware of how your photography may pose a danger to you or others. In short: think about safety.

Make sure you don’t block the driver’s line of sight or disturb them in some other way. Communicate with the driver and the other passengers. If you’re on a tour bus, don’t block other the passengers’ view through the window.

A woman on a donkey in rural Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

A very old photo I took through a car window. There are clearly some issues in terms of sharpness and composition, but it’s still a lovely memory.

If you’re in a car and planning to open a window, make sure nothing can fly out and be aware that there might be branches or objects by the side of the road that can hit you or your camera. Also be aware of oncoming traffic, and don’t lean out! Only slow down if it won’t disrupt the flow of traffic and if you convince the driver to stop the car for a photo break, make sure it’s in a safe place.

Is it worth it?

Even if everything’s okay in terms of safety, there are a few other things to consider before you start photographing.

Can the car stop for a little while instead of you attempting to take pictures through the window? If not, can the window be opened? Is there enough light for photography? Will doing so mean that you’ll miss out on seeing and enjoying the view?

There may also be places where I wouldn’t recommend photographing through a window. Driving through a city or village pointing a telephoto lens at people could be considered a bit creepy.

A mountain landscape seen from a highway in Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

This is how you do it

Enough of the don’ts and the warnings. It’s time to learn how to take great photos in this challenging situation.

Expose right

Not surprisingly, the most challenging part of this kind of photography is dealing with movement. In a moving car, your subject matter might swoop by at very high speeds.

In practical terms, this means using a shutter speed that can freeze that movement, finding an aperture that allows for enough depth of field, and choosing the ISO that makes all of that possible.

A view of rural Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

Here, the car was moving quite slowly so I got quite a sharp photo with a relatively wide angle. The dark and rainy weather made exposure a bit challenging, but it also made the sky much more dramatic.

The desired exposure depends a lot on what kind of a photograph you want. To get a sharp landscape photo from a moving vehicle, it’s important to have a fast enough shutter speed.

How fast depends on how fast you’re moving, but faster is generally better. I would suggest using at least 1/400th, but preferably faster. Be aware that the foreground is more likely to reveal signs of movement, whereas photographing something that’s further from the road is more likely to be successful.

Between the mountains and the desert in Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

A photo with a lot of depth, taken from a moving car.

If we continue with the example of a landscape photo, it’s also important to have a large enough depth of field to get a sharp capture of the whole view. This means you’ll need to use a small aperture, preferably around f/8.0, also depending on the sweet spot of your lens.

If you have the chance, try different settings, but if you can only take one or two photos, aim for a small aperture. Again, this depends a lot on what kind of photograph you’re aiming for and light levels.

Geological features photographed from a highway in the Atlas mountains of Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

I was aiming for a sharp photo of these beautiful geological features rushing past the car in the Moroccan Atlas mountains.

The last element of exposure, ISO, doesn’t make as much of a difference to this kind of photography as shutter speed and aperture do. ISO has the effect it always has, so the lower it is, the better.

Still, with modern DSLRs, using a higher ISO might be the key to allowing you to use the shutter speed and aperture you need while not adding a lot of noise.

An urban landscape near Casablanca, Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

It was cloudy and rainy, but by aiming for silhouettes and a dark atmosphere, this industrial view turned out sharp enough.

Plan well

It might seem difficult to plan in these situations, but there are usually some things that can help you create as good a photograph as possible. Even before you take your photo you can observe the light levels outside, which can help you with exposure.

You may also be able to get a good composition by observing the landscape outside and imagine what it might look like behind that curve or beyond that next hill. You can also see when there will be power lines appearing in your photo. I find that one of the most annoying parts of this kind of photography is power lines. They always get in the way!

Also, remember that this is one of those situations where taking a lot of photos is not a bad thing.

Signs and advertisements after a storm. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

Really annoying power lines! Still, I decided that I wanted to document the aftermath of a pretty bad storm outside Rabat, Morocco.

Optimise

To get as good a photo as possible, you should open the window to avoid unfortunate reflections or dirt in your photo. A closed window will also limit your movement and your options when it comes to composing.

There are many situations in which opening the window isn’t really a great idea, though. Remember that the most important thing is safety. If you can’t open the window, use the viewfinder and possibly a polarizing filter to try to avoid getting reflections and dirt in your photo.

A mountain landscape in Morocco. Tips for Taking Better Pictures from a Moving Vehicle

I didn’t have time to open the window so I photographed this view of houses seemingly pressed between mountains and clouds through the window.

Conclusion

Have you taken photos out of a car, bus, or train? I find the hardest part to be composing the photo.

What do you think? What benefits and challenges have you noticed? Do you have any tips for better photography on the road?

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Equipment List for Making Better Smartphone Videos

01 Aug

In case you haven’t noticed, smartphone cameras keep getting better and better. Not only do they take better still photos, but they also record high-quality video. Many latest generation smartphones are equipped with image stabilization, focus tracking, and the ability to shoot in 4K.

Smartphone video accessories 03

This is especially notable with the recent release of IGTV and social media platforms encouraging more video creation. With that in mind, it’s worth investigating how to use your smartphone to take better smartphone videos. As usual, it comes down to the tools you use. Here are several accessories worth investing in to take your smartphone videography to the next level.

A Way to Secure Your Phone

Equipment List for Making Better Videos With Your Smartphone - image on a cell phone

Smartphones today are being built tougher, but they still have a sleek body that makes them easy to drop. To keep your phone more secure, consider getting one of these accessories. This will help you take sharper and better videos.

Pop Socket

In case you’re not already hip to the Pop Socket, here’s why they’re so popular.

Image courtesy of Pop Socket.

These little devices look deceptively simple. They’re just a plastic backing that sticks to your phone and pops out to give you a better grip. This helps you hold your phone with one hand while taking selfies or shooting tricky angles. They are especially helpful while shooting video.

But there are some problems with the Pop Socket. For one thing, they’re bulky. Even when retracted, the Pop Socket sticks out just enough to make it a hassle to stick your phone in your pocket or put it into your car’s cell phone holder.

Secondly, Pop Sockets look about as cheap as they cost, at least in my opinion. This can ruin the aesthetic of the pricey phone you’ve invested in. Finally, these suckers are pretty permanent. Once they’re attached to your phone, they’re useless if you remove them. For that reason, I prefer using the next accessory to keep my phone secure.

Black Rapid WandeR Bundle

Image courtesy Black Rapid.

Black Rapid is known for their camera straps, but they also have a cool new product for smartphones. The WandeR Bundle is a nylon tether wrist strap that attaches to your smartphone’s case (above).

You can also use the included TetheR-Clip to secure your phone to a bag or camera strap (see below). It’s a simple concept that is very well executed and will make it hard to drop or lose your phone again.

Image courtesy Black Rapid.

A Smartphone Tripod

Like any other camera, there’s a time and a place to use a tripod with a smartphone, especially when creating videos. The good news is that you don’t need a giant tripod for your smartphone, although you can certainly adapt any basic tripod for use with a cell phone using an adapter (more on that below).

But if you want a more compact setup, consider getting a dedicated smartphone tripod. The Manfrotto PIXI EVO  is a popular option, as is the JOBY GorillaPod Hybrid Mini. Both are small, yet sturdy enough to hold a smartphone or even a small mirrorless camera if needed.

No matter what kind of tripod you end up with, make sure you get a cell phone tripod adapter to properly mount your device.

Equipment List for Making Better Videos With Your Smartphone - Smartphone mounted on a tripod

External microphone

Most smartphones have pretty good built-in audio recording features. But sometimes you need an enhanced audio solution. Note that for both of these microphones, you may need a smartphone audio jack adapter if you have a phone without a traditional audio jack.

One of the best smartphone microphones out there is the Rode VideoMic Me microphone. It’s very compact and comes with a fluffy windscreen (also known as dead cat). To use it, simply plug it into your smartphone’s audio jack. It worked well with my Samsung Galaxy S8 but didn’t work at all with the Google Pixel.

The reason is the location of the audio jack. On the S8, it’s located on the bottom of the phone, on the opposite end of the cameras. The Pixel’s audio jack is located on top, next to the camera. Thus, the microphone was in the shot both with and without the windscreen. So check the audio jack’s proximity to your camera before investing in this mic.

Another type of microphone you may need is a lavalier (or lapel) mic. It is placed in close proximity to the speaker’s mouth to isolate their voice from environmental noise. Lavalier mics are generally wired, meaning they can be difficult to use when plugged directly into your video recording device.

So the most convenient setup is to record your visuals with one camera, and record audio with a lavalier mic plugged into a smartphone. You’ll need an audio recording app to do this. A top of the line lav mic option is the Rode smartLav+, or the more affordable Stony-Edge Simple Lav. Note that sound quality typically corresponds with price, but it truly depends on your budget.

Rode mic on a smartphone - Equipment List for Making Better Videos With Your Smartphone

Smartphone gimbal

Many smartphones come with built-in stabilization that will help minimize or remove shake from your videos. However, you still need an extra tool if you want buttery smooth, cinematic video footage. The simplest video stabilization tool is an electronic handheld gimbal.

There are two main gimbals out there worth considering, and they’re very competitive in terms of features and price. One is the DJI Osmo Mobile 2, and the other is the Zhiyun Smooth Q. I’ve been using the Smooth Q for the past few months and have been blown away by how much my smartphone video quality has improved.

Best of all, a gimbal is easy to use and quite affordable for the features it offers.

girl using a gimbal smartphone stabilizer

Extra Power

While smartphone battery life keeps gradually improving, it’s still a good idea to bring a portable cell phone charger with you.

There are tons of external batteries on the market, but Anker is by far one of the more reputable brands. In particular, the Anker PowerCore 10000 is a compact, efficient, external battery. It can charge either your smartphone or electronic gimbal or both at the same time. Just be sure to charge the battery ahead of time and bring the right cables.

Over to You

In short, you don’t need a lot of tools to start using your smartphone to make better videos. However, if you add these tools to your kit, you’ll be well on your way to producing more professional-looking videos.

Do you have any smartphone video accessories? Let us know your essential tools in the comments below!

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9 Quick Tips for Better Black and White Photos

28 Jul

Here’s an 11-minute video from Jamie Windsor that is filled with 9 quick tips that you can use to improve your black and white photos in an instant.

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“For most of us these days, black and white is an after-thought,” says Windsor. “It’s a creative filter that we have on Instagram.”

But Windsor points out that black and white photography is “much more than an editing technique” – and he would be right!

To make strong, powerful monochromatic images, it is important to approach the shot knowing that it will be the final result. It allows you to think differently, adapt your creative techniques, and see the scene in front of you in a different light.

Once you’ve finished watching the video, make sure to check out dPS’s own black and white photography eBook for further tips and tricks!

Summary of the 9 tips for better black and white photos:

  1. Plan to shoot in black and white
  2. Look for the abstract shots
  3. Shoot in RAW or use Color Filters
  4. Use long exposures
  5. Utilize the Dodge and Burn Tool
  6. Understand how light is affected
  7. Try Using HDR (High Dynamic Range)
  8. Emphasize the mood
  9. Shoot black and white photos that should be in color

Have you shot any black and white images lately? Show us in the comments below!

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Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

23 Jul

Shooting in low light conditions can result in beautiful photographs. But it also presents plenty of technical challenges for you as a photographer to overcome.

noodles in a person's hands - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

The main issues with doing low light photography are:

  • You may not be able to use a shutter speed fast enough to hand hold your camera without creating camera shake.
  • If you use a high ISO, your photos can be very noisy.
  • Shooting at a wider aperture might not give you the depth-of-field you need to get enough of the subject in focus.
  • Your pictures can be underexposed and lack shadow detail.
  • It may be difficult for your lens to focus in low light.

Working with a tripod can greatly reduce some of these technical difficulties, but what about situations where shooting handheld is usually a necessity, like street photography? Or in places where a tripod may be prohibited, like a restaurant or museum?

There are ways to take control of your camera to ensure you get the most out of these challenging situations.

urban street scene high viewpoint - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

Tip #1 – Use a Prime Lens

There is no denying that zoom lenses are convenient, but choosing a prime over a zoom lens can ensure that your images will be that much sharper.

Zoom lenses are constructed with extra glass elements that move in order to zoom. More elements within the lens contribute to lens diffraction, a phenomenon of optical physics that degrades the quality of an image. Lens diffraction is why a generic prime lens can often be sharper than a much pricier zoom counterpart.

2 images of a tree and leaves - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

Shot with an 85mm prime lens.

Tip #2 – Use Shutter Priority

We’re taught that the best way to get great photos is to always shoot in Manual Mode, but sometimes this isn’t the case. In low light photography, shooting in shutter priority mode will help you take better control of your camera.

Shutter Priority mode lets you set the ISO and shutter speed, while the camera will calculate the best aperture for the lighting conditions in which you’re working.

The shutter speed needs to be fast enough to prevent camera shake. Your settings will vary, depending on your focal length and the size of your camera’s sensor. A good approach is to start with the same number (as a fraction) as your focal length for a full frame camera, and then add a stop (double it).

For example, if you are shooting with a 50mm on a full frame camera, try 1/100th of a second and check your results. For a cropped sensor, double your focal length number and add a stop (so 50mm x 2 = 100 x 2 = 200 so 1/200th).

Keep in mind that this is only a guideline. It’s to be used as a quick baseline from which to start. Your camera, the lens you’re using, and the environment you’re shooting in are all factors that will influence your end result.

Tip #3 – Use a High ISO

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - tree with pink lights in it

Your images can be very noisy at a high ISO. Some cameras handle high ISO settings better than others, but the vast majority of DSLRs (and mirrorless cameras) these days have good ISO capabilities. At least good enough to give you a decent base file for post-processing.

Lightroom and Photoshop can fix noise effectively, but the best results can be had with a program called Dfine from DxO’s Nik Collection. (Note: Once available for free, this plug-in can now be purchased with the entire Nik Collection from DxO).

The software measures select areas of your image for noise and adjusts it automatically. You can also take control and selectively increase and decrease noise reduction intensity and type in different parts of the image.

Before beginning to shoot in low light, I recommend doing an ISO test to determine how far you can push it with your camera. Run a few images through your post-processing program of choice and analyze the results. If you need to do a lot of noise reduction, your images might end up looking too plastic.

Tip #4 – Use Back Button Focus

Many of us rely on autofocus these days, especially if we have less than 20/20 vision. Both autofocus and manual focus have their pros and cons.

For example, when using autofocus, it’s very easy for the camera to miss focus at wider apertures. Also, when a scene lacks contrast, which is often the case in low lighting scenarios, the lens may struggle to find focus. You can remedy this by focusing on the edge of a brighter spot in your frame and then recomposing.

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - images show in low light with back button focus

You’ll need to use focus lock, or back button focus so your camera doesn’t attempt to refocus once you try to recompose. Back button focus moves the trigger for focusing from the shutter button to the back of your camera. When your focus is not set with the shutter button, your camera will not attempt to refocus when you take a shot.

I always have my camera set to back button focusing, whether I am shooting in low light or not.

Low Light Portraits

If you need to shoot portraits in low light without a tripod, try image stabilization if your lens offers this technology. Image stabilization counteracts any minor vibration due to shaky hands.

An image stabilizer can help you shoot at a slower shutter speed that you ordinarily would with a lens that doesn’t have this function.

When shooting portraits, shoot at the lowest (widest) aperture possible. It will give you a narrower depth of field, which will help you blur out a busy background by letting it fall out of focus. If possible, use a reflector to bounce some light onto your subject’s face.

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - portrait in low light

This child portrait above was shot handheld, very late in the day, without a reflector. Despite using some of the tips outlined here, it still was underexposed. I was able to bring some brightness back by using Curves in Photoshop and lightened the right side of her face a bit to counter some of the dreaded raccoon-eyes you often get with low light portraits.

Post-processing can go along way toward counteracting some of the problems encountered in low light photography, but trying to get things as perfect as you can in-camera, will save you a lot of time and headaches later.

Low Light Landscapes

Shooting at the golden hour or blue hour, when the light is low, is an ideal time to shoot landscapes. But it also presents the same challenges. In this case, a good, sturdy tripod is essential.

Also, you’ll need a shutter release. Manually depressing the shutter button will cause a vibration that will introduce camera shake and cause your images to be less than sharp.

When shooting landscapes in low light conditions, use Manual or Aperture Priority mode and be careful not to underexpose, or you’ll end up with too little shadow detail.

Your aperture should be fairly narrow, such as f/8 or f/11. Stopping down to apertures such as f/16 or f/22 can cause lens diffraction, in either prime or zoom lenses, no matter the quality. Shooting at f/8 will give you a good depth of field and enough sharpness. Not to mention, most lenses function at their best around this aperture.

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - marina at night shot

Bulb mode is also a great way to shoot landscape photography. This mode is mostly used for long exposures at night or in dark conditions and allows you to do an exposure longer than 30 seconds. You can keep the shutter open as long as required to get the shot in this mode.

If image sharpness continues to be an issue, taking three identical images with different focus points and blending them together using the focus stacking function in Photoshop is an excellent remedy.

Low Light Indoors

Sometimes you’ll need to shoot indoors in low light where you can’t use a flash, such as in a museum or a restaurant. You can choose to crank up your ISO and try Shutter Priority, as mentioned above.

For shooting subjects like food or still life indoors in natural light, shoot by a window and do a long exposure with the camera on your tripod. As long as you have some light, you can still shoot. Use reflectors to bounce some of the light back onto your subject.

Long exposures can be used for still life indoors pomegranate - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

In Summary

The key to getting consistently great results shooting in low light is understanding the principles as outlined above. Take some time to practice and take notes on what you observe while trying to get a well-exposed image.

After a while, it will become second nature for you to know what to do in any given low light situation.

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5 Tips to Help You Do Better Nighttime Photography

15 Jul

Nighttime photography offers the opportunity to observe and photograph some great astronomical subjects including the moon (as a whole or during different phases), stars, the Milky Way and even celestial events such as the Northern Lights. If you are new to night photography or want to improve your shots, here are 5 tips to help you on your way:

1. Decide on a subject

Nighttime photography 01 - northern lights over mountains and a lake

Capturing beautiful images at night is not as easy as you might think and camera techniques and settings differ greatly to photographing during the day. Turning up to a location in darkness and hoping to shoot as you would in the daytime can lead to disappointment. You won’t be able to see much by nightfall and finding a scene to shoot will be extremely challenging.

Whether your dream night shoot is to photograph the stars, the moon, meteors or the Milky Way, for example, decide on a subject first and then where you would like to shoot it.

It may seem obvious, but if you want to photograph the moon, there are different phases of the moon to consider.

Nighttime photography 02 - full moon landscape at night

You also need to be aware of the changes in light that can occur with a full moon or a new moon. Photographing under a full moon will make the sky and landscapes brighter. This means that you won’t be able to photograph as many stars as you would with a new moon but you will see a beautifully lit landscape with fewer dark shadows.

Neither of the phases is more photogenic than the other, they simply offer different opportunities and variations in lighting. Research the moon’s phase and plan where you would like it to appear in your image by using an app like PhotoPills or The Photographer’s Ephemeris.

Nighttime photography - stars and tree at night

2. Choose your shooting location during the day

Exposing yourself to a location and its surroundings during the day will help you decide what you want to shoot later at night.

Find a location before dark to avoid the frustration of seeing blind at night and a likely lack of decent images from the shoot. Give yourself time to find your spot and come up with a composition during the day to help you capture better images by nightfall.

Nighttime photography - star trails over a mountain valley

3. Include other elements

Once you have chosen a subject and found a decent location to shoot, your next task is to find a composition you like and that will work well combined with a beautiful night sky. Look for other interesting elements to add to your shots. Other subjects you can include with the moon and stars might include architecture, trees, the landscape or an interesting water source.

Nighttime photography - northern lights over mountains and waterfalls

4. Use a tripod

To stabilize the camera and capture sharper images, always use a tripod. You will need to operate your camera in near darkness and allow for longer shutter speeds in order to record a brighter image than the blackness you will initially see with your naked eye.

A tripod will help you to get the best image quality and a sharper shot. If you don’t have a tripod with you, you could improvise by finding a spot to put the camera down such as on a wall or ledge to keep it from moving when taking the photo.

Any image blur and camera movement can ruin nighttime photography. Even if your hands are as steady as a surgeon’s in the operating theatre, you will move the camera slightly while pressing the shutter button. So in addition to using a tripod, a remote trigger to fire the camera is another good idea.

Nighttime photography - crescent moon and clouds

5. Raise the ISO

You will find that if you want to shoot striking photos after dusk, you may need to use slow shutter speeds (long exposures). In order to maintain the quality of a photo that you can capture during the day when using a low rating of say ISO 100-200, this is necessary.

Sometimes a long exposure may not suit the subject you are photographing so to help you shoot faster (in other words, use a faster shutter speed) during low light, you will need to increase the ISO setting to accommodate.

Nighttime photography - stars and waterfall

The advantages of increasing the ISO to 3200 or 6400 include more detail in the image and a brighter exposure with a shorter shutter speed. However, this comes at a price as the higher the ISO you choose, the more noise will be evident in your image, impacting the overall quality.

I would recommend going for a balance between a slightly slower shutter speed from 1 to 30 seconds and a medium ISO setting of around 1000 or 3200 to get the best image possible without compromising too much on quality. Note: This will depend on your subject though as star trails or the Milky Way may require it higher.

Nighttime photography 08

Conclusion

Once you have experimented with these tips you will soon discover that photographing in the dark can be just as enjoyable and easy as shooting during the day. So what’s stopping you from getting out there and capturing your best ever night shots?

Do you have any nighttime photography tips you would like to share?

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Samsung’s ISOCELL Plus promises better color accuracy and low light performance

28 Jun

Samsung’s ISOCELL smartphone image sensor technology was introduced in 2013. It uses physical barriers between neighboring pixels to reduce color crosstalk and expand the capability to capture light, compared to conventional backside-illuminated (BSI) image sensors.

Now the Korean company has launched ‘ISOCELL Plus’ which has been developed in cooperation with FujiFilm. It replaces the metal grid at the front of the pixels with a new ‘mystery’ material, providing even better separation between pixels.

This material reduces reflections and light absorption by the barriers between pixels, leading to increased light sensitivity of up to 15% and better color fidelity. According to Samsung the technology allows for the design of sensors with 0.8µm and smaller-sized pixels without a loss in performance. This is 1/3rd the size of the pixels in a typical 1″-type sensor and should allow smartphone sensors with a resolution of 20MP and higher.

“We value our strategic relationship with Samsung and would like to congratulate on the completion of the ISOCELL Plus development,” said Naoto Yanagihara, corporate vice president of Fujifilm. “This development is a remarkable milestone for us as it marks the first commercialization of our new material. Through continuous cooperation with Samsung, we anticipate to bring more meaningful innovation to mobile cameras.”

In combination with other new mobile imaging technologies, such as multi-frame stacking and multi-sensor camera modules, ISOCELL Plus should allow for the design of smartphone cameras with even better low light performance than we’re seeing in current models.

Samsung will be showcasing the new sensors at Mobile World Congress Shanghai come end of June, but for now there is no word on when to expect the new technology in a production smartphone.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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