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Buying Guide: The best camera bargains of 2018

06 Dec

Last updated: December 4, 2018

If you’re looking for a high-quality camera, you don’t need to spend a ton of cash, nor do you need to buy the latest and greatest new product on the market. If you’re willing to miss out on some features, you can save a lot of cash by picking up a last-generation model or shopping around for deals on refurbished or older, but still current, cameras.

In this buying guide we want to direct your attention to some great-value cameras, which are still available. We’ll start with the least expensive options and go up in price from there.

Street prices listed below are current as of December 4th, 2018.

  • Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 $ 369
  • Nikon D3400 w/18-55 lens $ 399
  • Canon PowerShot G9 X II $ 399
  • Canon EOS M100 w/15-45mm lens $ 399
  • Sony a5100 w/16-50mm lens $ 449
  • Sony a6000 w/16-50mm lens $ 499
  • Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS100 $ 499
  • Fujifilm X-E3 $ 799
  • Nikon D7200 $ 799
  • Sony a7 II $ 899
  • Nikon D750 $ 1399

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100
$ 449 MSRP, $ 369 street

While not as capable as later models, Sony’s original Cyber-shot RX100 is an inexpensive way to snag a genuinely compact camera with a 1″ sensor. It has a 28-100mm equivalent lens that will do well in low light at the wide end of the lens, but not-so-great at telephoto. You miss out on the faster lenses, electronic viewfinders and improvements in autofocus and JPEG image quality that arrive in the latest models.

The camera fits in a pocket with ease, though the body is slippery and some may find the controls a bit clunky. The RX100 has a 3″ non-touch LCD but lacks a viewfinder. Photo quality is excellent and the same can be said for its Full HD video. It focuses quickly and can shoot continuously at 10 fps. Wi-Fi is built-in for photo sharing.

More info | Check prices


Nikon D3400 w/18-55mm lens
$ 499 MSRP, $ 399 street

While it’s since been replaced by the D3500, the Nikon D3400 is essentially the same camera but in a slightly different (but still very compact) body. Like other Nikons, the D3400’s 24MP APS-C sensor has excellent resolution and dynamic range. Its autofocus system is dated and it can’t take many photos in a burst, so a sports camera it is not.

What makes the D3400 so appealing is that it’s great for beginners, with its ‘Guide mode’, selecting the correct settings for you based on use case, and tells you which of them were actually changed so you learn. The camera also features Full HD video capture (though AF is essentially unusable) and Bluetooth for easy photo sharing.

More info | Check prices


Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II
$ 529 MSRP, $ 399 street

The Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II is one of the cheapest and smallest compact cameras with 1″ sensor that you can buy. The larger-than-average sensor will produce better-looking images than your typical compact, though the slow-ish lens will reduce that advantage in low light.

The lens has a small 28-84mm equiv. focal range, which isn’t as versatile as most of its peers. Despite that, the G9 X II has a well-designed touch interface, snappy performance, Full HD video capture and the latest wireless features.

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Canon EOS M100 w/15-45mm lens
$ 599 MSRP, $ 399 street

The Canon EOS M100 is one of least-expensive mirrorless cameras you’ll find. It’s packed with Canon’s latest features, including its excellent Dual Pixel autofocus system and also has a flip-up touchscreen display. It’s not as good at shooting action as the newer M50 model, which can also capture 4K video.

The M100 features Full HD video capture and Wi-Fi with Bluetooth. While there aren’t many native EF-M lenses available, the M100 is compatible with Canon’s enormous selection of EF and EF-S glass with an optional adapter.

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Sony a5100 w/16-50mm lens
$ 549 MSRP, $ 449 street

It’s hard to believe but, five years after its introduction, Sony is still making its a5100 mirrorless camera. The compact Sony a5100 is a good choice for those on a tight budget seeking a point-and-shoot experience, but with interchangeable lenses. It hasn’t seen the improvements in video, autofocus or JPEG color that have arrived in newer Sonys, meaning you don’t get the excellent Eye AF feature.

The a5100 uses a 24MP APS-C-size sensor and has a hybrid AF system that’s still responsive today. There’s a selfie-friendly flip-up touchscreen LCD on the a5100, but no viewfinder. It can capture Full HD video and has Wi-Fi with apps you can download to the camera.

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Sony a6000 w/16-50mm lens
$ 649 MSRP, $ 499 street

The Sony a6000 is one of the best-selling interchangeable lens cameras of all time, and for good reason. It has excellent image quality, a reliable autofocus system, 11 fps burst shooting and a sharp OLED viewfinder. The a6000 is targeted a bit more toward enthusiasts than the a5100, with dual control dials but (disappointingly) no touchscreen. It pre-dates features such as 4K video and Sony’s excellent Eye AF feature, and improvements in interface and JPEG color.

It captures Full HD video, offers Wi-Fi and can download feature-adding apps into the camera. It’s worth pointing out that Sony’s APS-C lens collection is relatively small and expensive compared to other mirrorless brands.


Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS100
$ 699 MSRP, $ 499 street

The Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS100 (TZ100 in some regions) is a compact camera with a 1″ sensor and 25-250mm equiv. lens. It fits easily in your pocket, making it an ideal camera for travel. Its lens has a relatively slow maximum aperture, so it won’t perform terribly well in low light, though it will still out-do compacts with smaller sensors. It doesn’t get the nicer JPEG colors of newer Panasonic models.

The ZS100 has a fixed touchscreen display and a ‘better than nothing’ electronic viewfinder. In addition to taking 4K video, the ZS100 also has genuinely useful features like ‘Post Focus’ and ‘4K Photo’. For those looking for a portable, versatile travel camera, the ZS100 is a bargain.


Fujifilm X-E3
$ 899 MSRP, $ 799 street (body only)

The Fujifilm X-E3 is a rangefinder-style mirrorless camera that produces excellent images straight out of the camera courtesy of its modern 24MP X-Trans APS-C sensor. Its well-built body has direct controls for shutter speed and exposure compensation, and most buttons are customizable.

A high-resolution EVF and touchscreen await users on the rear plate. It also offers Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. The X-E3 captures 4K video but not nearly to the high standard or newer models.While it doesn’t have a built-in flash, with a small external one included in the box. The excellent 18-55mm F2.8-4 lens adds just $ 300 to the cost of the camera and is well worth the money.

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Nikon D7200
$ 1099 MSRP, $ 799 street (body only)

The Nikon D7200 is a midrange DSLR with a 24MP APS-C sensor that produces sharp images with excellent dynamic range and solid high ISO performance. It’s reasonably small and light and is sealed against the elements. The D7200 has a large optical viewfinder and a fixed 3.2″ (non-touch) LCD.

Autofocus performance is superb, whether you’re tracking subjects or shooting in low light. While the D7200 can record Full HD video, quality isn’t as good as other midrange cameras and autofocus is effectively unusable. The D7200 has built-in Wi-Fi, but the aging smartphone app is unreliable.

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Sony a7 II
$ 1399 MSRP, $ 899 street (body only)

The Sony a7 II is a solid full-frame mirrorless camera that currently sells for a remarkably low price. It has built-in 5-axis image stabilization, a 24MP sensor, fast hybrid autofocus system and Full HD video capture. The camera has a relatively rugged, with some weather-sealing, high resolution EVF and tilting (non-touch) LCD. It misses out on the further improvements Sony has made in terms of JPEG color, autofocus and user interface in its latest models.

Photos have great resolution and excellent Raw dynamic range, though the a7 II struggles a bit at high ISOs. Some users might find the buttons and dials to be too small, so it’s worth trying one in person before you buy.

More info | Check prices


Nikon D750
$ 1999 MSRP, $ 1399 street (body only)

Despite being released way back in 2014, the D750 is still one of the most attractive full-frame DSLRs on the market and an incredible bargain as it approaches its fifth year of production. The D750’s 24MP sensor produces beautiful photos with low noise at high ISOs and plenty of dynamic range. Its autofocus system tracks subjects with ease, though the camera’s buffer fills quickly when shooting bursts.

The D750’s body is compact for a full-frame DSLR and it has a giant optical viewfinder, a 3.2″ tilting (non-touch) LCD, built-in flash, dual SD card slots and Wi-Fi. It can shoot good quality Full HD video, though autofocus performance in video and live view is for static subjects only. Battery life, on the other hand, is exceptional.

More info | Check prices

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Best DSLR For Beginners: Canon or Nikon?

30 Nov

If you’re a beginner DSLR camera user, it means you’ve outgrown your smartphone or compact camera and want to take your photography to the next level and deliver quality images.  Right? If that’s the case, we’ll help you take that big step up. There’s a range of DSLR Cameras for entry-level users like the Canon and Nikon brands that offer Continue Reading

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Nikon Custom Modes of the D750 and D500. Which mode is best?

28 Nov

Customization is a big trend. From 3D printing to personalizing phones to our face, customization is becoming a requested product feature and a competitive advantage. Cameras also try to provide more and more customizable features to cater to our individual shooting styles. In this article, I will present and compare the Nikon custom modes of the D750 and the D500 including:

  • U1/2 and
  • Memory banks

A D750 features ‘U1/2’ and a D500 the ‘Memory banks.’ In this article, you will learn ways to set both up. Shooting scenarios showcasing the usefulness of custom settings will be included. Finally, I will share my preferred settings for each one, as well as some thoughts on both methods.

1 Nikon Custom Modes

The location of U1/2 on the D750

Location and activation of U1/2

Generally a warmly received feature, U1/2 can be found on the top dial of the cameras that include them.

The way to move between them is to push the button next to the dial and spin the dial until the required setting aligns with the white indicator line next to the dial. This then becomes the active combination of preselected settings.

Location and Activation of Memory Banks

On the other hand, Memory Banks are not assigned upfront directly to physical controls. Instead, these are selectable through the menus or are assignable to button and dial press-and-turn combinations.

There are different ways to access and activate banks. The most common are:

  • Through the ‘photo shooting’  and ‘custom’  menus shown below. It is the top option on both menus. These switch between the four (A/B/C/D) available photo shooting menu banks (in the photo shooting menu) and the four (A/B/C/D) available custom setting banks (in the custom setting menu). This is the longest way to set banks up, as it resides deeper in the menus.
2 Nikon Custom Modes

Screen of photo shooting menu on the D500

3 Nikon Custom Modes

Screen of custom setting menu on the D500

 

  • Through the ‘info’  button at the back of your camera. Pressing this opens up a menu and the two topmost options are: ‘photo shooting menu banks’ and ‘custom settings banks.’ There is no way to change the order in which they are shown.
  • Through the ‘my menu’  tab. With this menu, you assign them in any ranking that suits you. A variation, for quicker access, is to first place either of them (but only one at any time) as the top item in ‘my menu.’ To follow, assign the shortcut ‘access top item in my menu’ to any permissible button. The buttons / / / work for this shortcut (sub-selector press).
  • Through the assignable button and dial press-and-turn combinations. This method applies exclusively to ‘photo shooting menu banks.’ The buttons that can be pressed in combination with any command dial rotation are / (sub-selector press) / (movie record button next to the shutter button). For the combination with the movie record button to work, the live view selector needs to be in rotated to .
4 Nikon Custom Modes

Live view selector to photography mode position on the D500

A Conceptual Way to Approach Custom Settings

Now you should know how to access and activate both custom settings. I will now discuss the rationale behind them using them.

Firstly, I will talk about useful ‘generic’ concepts:

  1. Camera settings (core/output/fine-tune)
  2. Photographic parameters (scene variables/photographic intent/enablers)

These concepts are a framework for you to consider in the use of custom settings. I prefer this framework, rather than simply answering ‘which custom settings are best for portrait, sports, nature or any other photography genre?’ I have intentionally left out perspective (I consider this primarily impacted by lens selection) and composition (as this is the photographer’s prerogative).

1. Camera Settings

Core Settings: Aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and metering. These are at the heart of photography, regardless of genre. Most of these are changeable on the fly while shooting through the dedicated button and/or dial press/turns.

Output Settings: Most of the settings of the ‘photo shooting’ menu. These affect the output file type, size and look, such as file quality (raw and jpeg), picture control system (standard, vivid etc.), and white balance. An exception is the ISO setting, which I consider core.

Fine-tune Settings: The menu options of the ‘custom settings’ menu. These are important adjustments to the way the camera looks at and reacts to the scene/subject.

2. Photographic Parameters

Scene variables: I keep it simple, by including (available) light levels and subject movement only.

Photographic intent: This is the part where you decide what you want to convey or achieve through your photograph. Do you want to freeze or show movement? Go high or low key on the scene? Are you isolating your subject from its surroundings or showing some background detail? These (and many more) are the meaningful aesthetic choices, which make each photographer unique.

Enablers: Out of the many props/modifiers available to photographers, I include here the flash and the tripod. These two (arguably filters as well) make possible, more than anything else, the realization of our vision in diverse genres of photography (e.g. landscape, long exposure, night photography, macro etc.). Additionally, each of them has their own distinct group of settings to maximize their effectiveness. 

How Do U1/2 and Memory Banks Approach These Concepts?

Any given scene can be broken down to any pair of variables (marked with x) in the table below.

5 Nikon Custom Modes

I argue that superimposing our photographic intent on these sets of variables, assisted by suitable enablers, is the art and technique of photography. In my view, the custom settings number one goal is to facilitate effortless interplay between variables, intent, and enablers.

To achieve this, they should allow a quick switch from one bundle of the core, output and fine-tuning settings to another. U1/2 and Memory Banks do this in different ways, as I will demonstrate below.

U1/2 Table

Key: U1 (User-defined 1), U2 (User-defined 2), C1 (Core 1), C2 (Core 2), O1 (Output 1), O2 (Output 2), F1 (Fine-tuning 1), F2 (fine-tuning 2)

6 Nikon Custom Modes

Memory Bank Table

7 Nikon Custom Modes

The tables above summarize the difference in the logic of U1/2 and Memory Banks.

  • U1/2 are vertical combinations of selected settings of all types of camera settings.
  • Memory Banks is a matrix combination (i.e. mix and match) of primarily ‘Output’ and ‘Fine-tuning’ camera settings. The exception is the inclusion of the core ISO setting on the photo shooting Menu Banks. Turning on the ‘extended photo menu banks’ option in the ‘photo-shooting’ menu allows for the other settings (aperture/shutter/manual priorities, aperture, and shutter values as well as exposure and flash modes) to be embedded in the photo shooting banks.

Applying Custom Settings to Real-Life Shooting Scenarios

Generic Shooting Style

Before I provide some examples of real-life shooting using both custom settings, I will make a few important working assumptions about a ‘generic’ shooting style:

  • You shoot various genres of photography regularly in a mixed way (i.e. you would opt for the maximum settings’ range and flexibility within easy reach)
  • You do not employ back button focus. I propose you do so. It can increase your focusing and composing options, as well as your speed of shooting considerably.
  • You are not a full-time raw or jpeg only shooter. Myself, I shoot raw 95% of the time/shots.
  • You do not use auto ISO. I propose you do, as on the field it can make life a little less complicated.
  • You have and know how to use a flash and a tripod.

Typical Shooting Situations

Now, I will walk you through one of my typical shooting situations – walking around town or traveling, to show what I ideally expect from my custom settings.

Scenario One:

As I am strolling along, I see a nice background for a portrait. I want my camera to be on the ready with pinpoint focus accuracy (AF-S single point) with a nice shallow depth of field. Depending on surrounding light levels and contrast, I may or may not want to add flash-fill or even overpower available light using high-speed sync, so it is handy to be able to quickly access a convenient flash exposure starting point.

8 Nikon Custom Modes

Portrait of a friend taken with the D750

Scenario Two:

Along the road, a cute animal is playing. I’d like to shoot it as it moves, freeze it or do a nice pan. My camera needs to be ready to follow motion (AF-C combined with any preferred focus area mode). Also, I need quick flexibility on my shutter speed selection from a 1/1000th sec (to freeze action) down to around 1/30th sec (to pan).

9 Nikon Custom Modes

A portrait of a dog taken with the D500

Scenario Three:

I enter a beautiful garden. Flowers are perfect to photograph close-up (macro) so I set up my tripod. Here, I require a deeper depth of field and pinpoint focus accuracy again (AF-S single). If the light is not plenty, I may need a longer than usual exposure.

Turning ‘on’ long exposure noise reduction and exposure delay, provides better image quality in these scenarios. To further mitigate shake risk, I also engage mirror lock-up. Unfortunately, mirror lock is not pre-configurable in U1/2 or in Memory Banks.

10 Nikon Custom Modes

A Flower close-up taken with the D750

Scenario Four:

On any trip, it is great to take a nice landscape photo. In this case, the macro settings above, more or less apply. If there is plenty of light, shooting handheld is not an issue.

11 Nikon Custom Modes

A landscape taken with the D750

Scenario Five:

Finally, during a town-by-night walk, a nice long exposure is always memorable. Again, the macro scenario settings and my trusty tripod come in handy.

12 Nikon Custom Modes

A long exposure taken with the D500

Based on these realistic hypothetical-shooting scenarios, it is evident that settings vary considerably from auto-focus mode to shutter speed and aperture, to flash or no flash etc. You may also want to give your camera to someone for a quick snap, without having the time or inclination to explain focus, recompose or other settings.

If there is an ‘auto’ option on your modes dial then all is good, if not, then resetting to ‘waiter’ or ‘dumbbell’ mode (as full-auto is also known to some) is not quick nor easy without custom settings.

Now, I will briefly show my settings for both modes and a few tips to further increase their flexibility.

My Settings for U1/2

U1 is my ‘General Shooting Mode’ and the settings are shown in the screen below. If you employed back-button focus, then you would use AF-C instead of AF-S

13 Nikon Custom Modes

My U1 settings in D750

U2 is my ‘Flash Shooting Mode’ and the settings are shown in the screen below.

14 Nikon Custom Modes

My U2 settings in D750

It is important to mention that you have additional options by customizing M/A/S modes.

The Settings I Use For Memory Banks (Extended Banks ‘ON’)

My photo shooting banks are named A=General B=JPG C=Shutter D=Manual

The custom banks are named A=General B=Flash C=Tripod D=Waiter

I have set banks this way to be able to move from my usual working best quality output (e.g. A/A) to basic point and shoot output (e.g. B/D) within just a few seconds by using the ‘info’  button and changing the ‘custom settings’  banks.

Tips to maximize both methods:

  1. Create and rank items in ‘my menu’. This will allow quick access and change of settings that are not pre-programmable in any mode (e.g. mirror lock up).
  2. Especially for Memory Banks, use the ‘save/load settings’ option onto an SD card (one you will not format). Also, store the settings file on any drive for safekeeping. This will give you a quick restore method, in case you forget what your initial Memory Bank settings were after many changes, as banks are not ‘sticky’.
  3. Read on the net for other ways that users have set their U1/2 and banks. Their needs and style may suit yours. 

So Which Method is Best?

After comparing U1/2 with Memory Banks for versatility in the above scenarios, my conclusion is that banks provide me with the highest flexibility thanks to their matrix structure. However, banks demand greater discipline in their set-up and use to remain helpful. This is because U1/2 are ‘sticky’, while banks are not.

Once settings are saved in U1/2, no matter what changes you make while shooting with U1/2 selected, you will not impact the saved settings. Simply reselect U1/2 and you are at your initial settings in a blink, hence ‘sticky’. However, all 8 banks save settings dynamically in real time as you apply them during your shooting. Following is a simplified example to elaborate:

You have U1 set up as A-priority, AF-S at f/5.6 and matrix metering. During your shoot, you move from the matrix to spot and f/8. Do you want to go quickly back to your base settings? Simply turn the dial from U1 to U2 and then back to U1 again, and you are back to f/5.6 and matrix.

In banks (both custom and shooting), if you wanted to keep your selected bank identical to the starting configuration, you would need to manually bring metering and apertures back to their initial values.

Conclusion

So, in the grand scheme of things, I have no complaints from either method in the Nikon Custom Settings. I am glad to have both available. I value the ease of use of U1/2 and I love the greater choice that Memory Banks give me. For example, being tripod-ready for landscape or macro, without having to remember to change many settings makes things easier and quicker.

It would be great to have an option to easily save and restore banks in camera to provide the best of both worlds, or to have the quick recovery of U1/2 with the greater choice of the banks.

Join the discussion and let us know your preferred method and way of programming Nikon Custom Settings on the D750, D500 or any other camera featuring U1/2 or banks.

The post Nikon Custom Modes of the D750 and D500. Which mode is best? appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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DPReview Buying Guide: Best compacts, drones and phones

26 Nov

These days, getting great images doesn’t have to mean buying a large, heavy interchangeable lens camera. In these buying guides, we’re offering our recommendations for the best compact cameras, camera drones and smartphones.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DPReview Buying Guide: Best lenses for Canon, Nikon and Sony

24 Nov

New this year, we’ve added lens recommendations to our range of buying guides. Take a look through this guide for our advice on the best lenses to pair with Canon, Nikon and Sony cameras.

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DPReview Buying Guide: Best cameras by use-case

24 Nov

It’s almost the end of the year, and we’ve been updating our range of buying guides. Here, you’ll find our current recommendations for the best cameras for all kinds of photography, from portraiture to sports.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DPReview recommends: Best digital cameras and lenses

24 Nov

We test and try a lot of digital cameras and lenses here at DPReview, and with holiday season finally here, we’ve been updating our range of buying guides. Click through for our recommendations.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DPReview Buying Guides: Best cameras by budget

23 Nov

It’s that time of year again, when retailers discount their wares to encourage us to upgrade everything from our clothing to appliances to cameras. In this selection of buying guides, you’ll find our current recommendations for the best cameras from under $ 500 to $ 2000+.

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DPReview Buying Guide: Best DSLRs

21 Nov

Last updated: November 20, 2018

It’s not easy to answer the question ‘what’s the best DSLR’ because the question often means ‘what’s the best DSLR for me?’ And the correct answer to that question will depend on your budget and what you want to use the camera for.

It’s also complicated by the fact that, while DSLRs are renowned for their flexibility and image quality, there are now a series of cameras that offer similar (and potentially greater) capabilities that are also worth considering.

So, while this roundup will focus on DSLRs (cameras with a mirror that redirects the image from the lens through into an optical viewfinder), we’ll also recommend some mirrorless cameras that may be a better fit for you. These also have interchangeable lenses and comparable image quality but tend to be a bit smaller and are often better adapted to shooting video.

This guide breaks down your options roughly by price and focuses on all-round capability. For more precise recommendations, tailored to the photography you want to do, we’d recommend looking at our buying guides based around specific types of photography.

Jump to:

  • Best DSLR around $ 600
  • Best DSLR around $ 1000
  • Best DSLR around $ 1500
  • Best DSLR over $ 2000

Best DSLR around $ 600: Canon EOS Rebel SL2
($ 650 with 18-55mm lens)

The EOS Rebel SL2 (EOS 200D) features a 24 Megapixel sensor, fast Dual Pixel autofocus when using live view or taking video, a fully articulating touchscreen LCD and a ‘Feature Assistant’ that makes adjust complex settings easy. It can capture 1080p video and has built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth for easily sharing photos.

Read review | Check prices | More info

Mirrorless alternative:

Olympus E-M10 Mark III
$ 599 with 14-42mm lens

The E-M10 III has a retro-styled body and its electronic viewfinder is larger than the optical viewfinder on the SL2. It has a smaller, lower resolution sensor compared to the SL2 and a tilting (rather than fully articulating) touchscreen display, and it includes 4K video capture.

Read review | Check prices | More info


Best DSLR around $ 1000: Canon EOS 77D
($ 949 with 18-55mm lens)

The EOS 77D is two notches above the SL2 in Canon’s lineup, offering more controls, a faster processor and a sturdier body. It too has a fully articulating touchscreen though, oddly, its optical viewfinder is smaller than what’s on the SL2. Video can be captured at 1080p and connectivity features include Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.

Read review | Check prices | More info

Mirrorless alternative:

Fujifilm X-T20
$ 999 with premium 18-55mm lens

The X-T20 has a classic design and produces great-looking photos. It offers Film Simulation modes to bring out your creative side and also has a tilting touchscreen display, 4K video capture and Wi-Fi.

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Best DSLR around $ 1500: Nikon D7500
($ 1450 with 18-140mm lens)

The Nikon D7500 inherits some features from the more expensive D500, including its 20 Megapixel sensor, improved metering system, tilting touchscreen LCD, weather-sealing and 4K video capture. While the live view experience isn’t nearly as robust as on Canon models, the D7500 is a clear winner when shooting through the viewfinder.

Read review | Check prices | More info

Mirrorless alternatives:

Sony a6300
$ 1299 with 18-135mm lens

The a6300 is a comparatively inexpensive alternative, and has a top-notch 24MP sensor, gorgeous 4K video, excellent AF and fast burst shooting. It’s also pretty compact, though its user experience isn’t for everyone.

Fujifilm X-T3
$ 1899 with premium 18-55mm lens

The X-T3 excels at both still photography and video. Photos look great and video features (including 4K/60p) and quality are top-notch. The weather-sealed body has an ultra-high-res viewfinder along with a clever 3-axis tilting LCD.

Read review | Check prices | More info Read review | Check prices | More info

Best DSLR over $ 2000: Nikon D850
($ 3300 body only)

The D850 is a high-end DSLR that sits just below the flagship D5 in Nikon’s lineup. It has a 46 Megapixel full-frame CMOS sensor, top-of-the-line autofocus system, a huge optical viewfinder, a tilting touchscreen LCD and dual memory card slots. Image quality is as good as you’ll find and the D850’s 4K video isn’t bad, though controls are a bit limited. As you’d expect the D850 is built like a tank and weather-sealed. Its large battery can take thousands of photos on a single charge.

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Mirrorless alternatives:

Sony a7 III
($ 2000 body only)

The a7 III is a heck of a camera for the price. It has built-in image stabilization along with an excellent 24MP full-frame sensor, stellar autofocus system, great 4K video quality and battery life that’s well above average.

Sony a7R III
($ 3200 body only)

The a7R III has a superb 42MP full-frame sensor plus in-body IS, excellent 4K video quality, dual card slots and above average battery life. It’s autofocus system isn’t as robust as the D850’s but it’s still solid in most situations.

Read review | Check prices | More info Read review | Check prices | More info

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How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best

18 Nov

Henri Cartier-Bresson said that “Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst.” Every successful creative spends boundless time, thought, and concentrated effort pursuing their passion. You can accelerate your photography education by learning from accomplished artists. One way to stimulate your photography is by reading quotes from not only photographers but creative people who express themselves in any medium.

I find stimulus from musicians, painter, authors, sculptors, and others. By reading the words of outstanding visionary artists, you can draw from the depth of their experience.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Thinking © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Whether you are coming to grips with camera settings when you are just starting out or seeking deeper motivation, if you’re already confident with your camera, you will do well to learn from those with more experience than yourself or your peers.

Be Part of an Ongoing Conversation

“I’m in the middle of a long conversation with my audience, it’ll be a lifelong journey for both of us by the time we’re done.” Bruce Springsteen (rock musician, author)

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Portrait © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Photography is a communicative tool. Your style choice may be fine art or street photography. You may be interested in creating documentary photographs. Whatever your choice of style and subject, approach it as an ongoing conversation. Not just talking, but also listening.

Your best photographs express your feelings. They convey something of who you are. The best conversations are two-sided. Participate with your audience and listen to their feedback.

If you’ve never seen Springsteen perform live, find some of his concert clips on Youtube. He is a master in audience participation. He draws energy from his audience and is driven to return that energy in his performances.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Conversation © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

It’s easier for rock stars to do this than photographers. Find people to give you feedback. Become part of other photographers creative conversations by sharing your feelings about their photography. You will grow together.

Work With the Raw Materials

“What makes photography a strange invention is that its primary raw materials are light and time.” John Berger (art critic, novelist, painter and poet)

Having a good grasp of the basics for anything you want to learn is the start of your journey towards success. Photography is all about light and time. Understanding the role that these two raw materials play in photography will make your journey more exciting and absorbing.

Throughout history, some of the greatest minds have devoted themselves to the understanding of time and light. As a photographer, you need to constantly consider these two raw materials of your craft. Not in such a deep way as to invent time travel, but at least in how they relate to the story you are telling with your photographs.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Light and Time © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

“Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. However, above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.” George Eastman (founder of Kodak)

Practice Always

“Photography is the simplest thing in the world, but it is incredibly complicated to make it work.” Martin Parr (photographer)

Commitment over time makes a huge impact on your achievements. Photography is actually quite simple, but to make a truly great photograph in our lifetime will probably elude most of us. This should not stop you putting in the effort because there is always an element of luck. Unless you are practiced and prepared, when luck happens, you may miss it.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Cart Racer © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Whatever you like to photograph, work on it. Not once a month, or even once a week. Make a point of taking at least one photo a day and learning, or improving one technique. Focus on a few topics you love and make projects of them. You will see your progress more readily if you do.

On Portraiture

Be more than a person with a camera when you are making portraits. Engage in dialogue. This way your subject becomes an integral part of your photography conversation, and not just a ‘sitter’ for a head shot.

“Who sees the human face correctly: The photographer, the mirror, or the painter?” Pablo Picasso (painter, sculptor, printmaker, ceramicist, stage designer, poet, and playwright)

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Portraiture © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

You could argue that some of the faces Picasso painted are barely recognizable as people. He expressed himself like no other person before him. Study him and read his quotes. You can learn from a master who was one of the most influential creatives in history.

Portraiture is probably the most common photography subject (even if you exclude selfies.) There is nothing complicated about choosing to photograph a person, but the complexities in making an outstanding portrait are many.

“A portrait is not made in the camera but on either side of it.” Edward Steichen (photographer, painter, and art gallery and museum curator)

On Street Photography

“It’s easy to penetrate someone’s privacy. People are glad you’re there to see them, cos no one’s paying attention.” Bruce Davidson (photographer)

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Street Photography © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Our perceptions of street photography are as varied as the number of photographers who engage in it. Bringing yourself to step out into the world, record it as you see it, and then share the photographic conversations you have, is challenging for many people.

Jumping into the shoes of experience will ease this pain. Guys like Bruce Davidson have been approaching strangers ‘cold’ for decades. Use the voice of this experience to guide you and motivate you.

Street photography is popular. There are a lot of new photographers producing some wonderful work. These pictures can do a certain amount to inspire, but there is no depth of experience to really lean on.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Street Portrait © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

On Documentary Photography

“I’m not an artist. An artist makes an object. Me, it’s not an object, I work in history, I’m a storyteller.” Sebastiao Salgado (photographer)

Our photographs can change the world. Photographs can change us. As a young guy with a camera, seeing photos and reading articles with quotes from the greats like Henri Cartier-Bresson, Sebastiao Salgado, Dorothea Lange, and other accomplished documentary photographers inspired me. These are the things that drove me.

How To Stimulate Your Photography by Learning From the Best Documentary Photography © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Before the internet, we shared photos differently, being mostly restricted to printed pictures. Inspiration happened in the pages of books and magazines and sometimes on art gallery walls. Carefully curated bodies of work published in Time, Life, and National Geographic, accompanied by well-written, carefully edited articles, provided a richness difficult to find on Instagram or other social media platforms.

If you feel strongly about something, photograph it. Make it an ongoing project. Let it span months or even years. But do not rely on only yourself. Look to those who have gone before you. Listen to their music, read their books, and study their photographs. Bring them into your creative conversation so that you stimulate your photography.

“Photography takes an instant of our time, altering life by holding it still.” Dorothea Lange (photographer)

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