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Posts Tagged ‘Photoshop’

Creating a Lens Flare Effect and Dust Particles in Photoshop

07 May

This article isn’t about how to magically transform your images using Photoshop. The real magic of Photoshop is trying to convince the viewer that no effects were added at all, and that the image was captured in camera. Photoshop can add that little extra to your imagery. Conversely, it can also ruin an image if it’s overdone.

I shoot to capture the best possible image as I can get at the time, but more often than not, time is not on my side. If I am shooting for a client, time is money. Deadlines and strict schedules are uppermost when dealing with a client. When shooting outdoors, I am dealing with natural light which is constantly changing and weather conditions, which may force me to shoot faster or abandon the shoot completely.

So, when I get to look at my image(s) on the computer, I take the time to critically review them. As I shoot RAW, I need to apply basic post-processing to all my images. In some cases, I may need to add an extra enhancement, but that will depend on the image and what I need it to say.

Gorilla-with-lens-flare-and-dust-particles

Lens Flare and dust particles added using Photoshop

This is the power of post editing. To be able to add an enhancement to the image, to give it that extra drama or a desired effect that you wanted to convey in your image in the first place. It can be as subtle as adding dust particles, or a bit more dramatic such as a lens flare effect. Both of these effects, whether you use one or both together, can add that little bit of oomph!

When applying any Photoshop effects, It’s not just about technique, although the know-how is important, but it is the application which is key:

  • How to execute the technique – different methods to achieve the same end result
  • When to use it – some images suit this technique over others
  • By how much?
Before

Before

After

After

The above may sound quite obvious and fundamental, but I can’t stress it enough, especially if you are new to creating effects in Photoshop.

  • HOW = the technique. I will demonstrate how to create a lens flare effect non-destructively in Photoshop using the Lens Flare filter. I will also describe how to create your own simple custom dust particle brush. Plus, I’ll show you my own unique in-camera method to capture dust particles.
  • WHEN = you deciding if this technique will work on the particular image in question. Just because you know how to use a technique doesn’t mean you have to apply it to every image. Yes, by all means practice on your images until you have refined the process.
  • HOW MUCH = knowing how little of the technique to apply – less is more. Don’t be afraid to reduce the opacity on the layer that you have applied the technique on.

This is where beginners can get carried away when learning post-processing techniques in Photoshop, for the first time. As tempting as it is, you want to show off your new skill and see the effect on your image in a dramatic way, try and keep it subtle.

What is Lens Flare?

Flare is particularly caused by a very bright light sources either in the image – which produces visible artifacts – or shining into the lens but not in the image – which produces a haze. Most commonly, this occurs when shooting into the sun (when the sun is in frame or the lens is pointed in the direction of the sun), and is reduced by using a lens hood or other shade. – as seen in Wikipedia

If applied well, the lens flare effect really does convey that good-feeling summer shot.

The Lens Flare Filter in Photoshop

Filter-render-lens-flare

The Lens Flare filter is found under Filter > Render > Lens Flare.

The Lens Flare is found under Filter>Render>Lens Flare. However, this doesn’t work in the same way as an Adjustment Layer, as in non-destructively. The effect works directly on the image itself. It also won’t work on an empty layer. So, create a new layer above the image and fill it with black. Change the blend mode to Screen. Go up to the Menu Bar and go to Filter > Render > Lens Flare.

As you can see in the image below, a small pop up dialog box appears with a preview window, and shows the four different types of lens flare available. Click inside the preview window to move the Lens Flare to whatever position you want.

Filter-render-lens-flare

The Lens Flare dialog box.

50-300mm-zoom-lens-flare

This is the 50-300mm zoom Lens Flare effect on a layer filled with Black.

105m-prime-lens-flare

This is the 105mm Lens Flare effect on a layer filled with Black.

Becky-and-Amy-with-lens-flare-applied

Lens flare applied

Tip: To get a more precise position for the lens flare, bring up the Info Panel, and move your cursor over the spot on your image where you want the flare to be positioned. The x and y coordinates tell you the exact position in pixels. When you have the Lens Flare dialog box open, click on the preview window while holding down the Alt/Option button, and the precise Flare Center dialog box appears. Type in the x and y coordinates and click OK.

Gorilla-precise-flare-center

The precise Flare Center dialog box appears when you click on the preview window of the Lens Flare while holding down the Alt key on a Mac (Option on PC).

How to create your own custom dust particle brush in Photoshop

To create your own custom dust particle brush in Photoshop is relatively simple. Open a new document in Photoshop, I made mine 800×800 pixels on a white background, set the dpi to 240 or 300. Use a small brush, hardness set to 25%, and use the color black. Create random small dots on the canvas. Not too many. Go up to the Menu Bar > Edit > Define Brush Preset. Type the name of your new brush and click OK.

creating-new-document-custom-dust-particle-brush

Create a new document with a white background 800px x 800px.

naming-dust-particle-custom-brush

Go to Edit > Define Brush Preset and name your new custom brush.

Before you start using your brush, you need to change a few properties of the brush so that it behaves like dust particles. Go up to Window > Brush. This brings up the brush dialog box. Use the following brush settings (see below screenshots also) Change the spacing to 100%, click on the Shape Dynamics box and move the Size Jitter and the Angle Jitter sliders to 100%. Next click on the Scattering tick box. I moved the Scatter slider over to 500%. Tick on Both Axes. Keep the Count Jitter at 2.

custom-brush-settings

Create a new blank layer over your image and fill it with black. Using the custom brush, set to white, start creating dust particles across the canvas. Change the blend mode to Screen and now you can see the dust particles as white specks. Add some Gaussian Blur and reduce the opacity down to around 75%. You can always add a new layer to build up the effect too.

Dust-particles-with-custom-brush

How to create dust particles in-camera

I have to admit, this technique made me smile. I had been wracking my brains for a while for a possible solution to capture dust in-camera. The other morning, I got up early, as usual, to get my girls off to school. I looked out the kitchen window, the skyline was a lovely orange from the sun.

I then noticed all the specks (dirt) on the window and I had an eureka moment, I grabbed my camera and I focused on the specks using an aperture f/4. I also underexposed it by two stops. I wanted the specks to show through a dark background. I brought this image into Photoshop and applied a Levels Curve Adjustment to darken the image even more. I placed this image on the photo of the Gorilla. I then changed the blend mode to screen. I added some Gaussian Blur and reduced the opacity. Not bad for what is essentially dirt on a window.

Dust-particles-on-a-window

Dust and dirt particles on a window.

small-toy-plastic-gorilla

The image of the Gorilla without the Lens Flare effect and dust particles.

zoomed-in-dust-particles

Zoomed in area to show the dust particles I took of my own window!

Disclaimer: I had to persist with dirty windows for weeks in the name of photography. That’s my story and I am sticking with it!

Have you got a technique for creating your own flare or dust particles in Photoshop? If so, please share in the comments below.

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How to Blend in Adjustments Using Layer Masking in Photoshop

26 Apr

In a recent article called: Getting Started with Layer Masks in Photoshop – a Beginners Tutorial, I showed you the basics of layer masks and why they are such powerful tools. Layer masks are essentially what gives Photoshop layers much of their power. They allow you to tell Photoshop exactly where you want your changes applied, and to what degree.

In that article, I also showed you how to use layer masks in pictures where you had a defined edge to the areas you wanted to change. Photoshop has a lot of great tools that allow you to make selections, which you can then use to define the mask.

Here is a picture I took in Florida where I used layer masks and to accentuate parts of the image without changing other parts.

Here is a picture I took in Florida where I used layer masks and blending, to accentuate parts of the image without changing other parts.

But what about pictures where you have a soft edge? Or where you want to blend in the effect gradually? That’s what I will cover in this article. It will pick up where the prior article left off, so if you haven’t seen that one yet, check it out. Once you have reviewed the basics of layer masks in that article, come back here and we will get started.

Step 1: Create an Adjustment Layer

The first thing to do is make the changes you want to the image, which will then be blended into the selected areas later. To make those changes, I am going to create a Curves adjustment layer. As mentioned in the prior article, Curves adjustment layers are one of the most powerful tools in Photoshop. They allow you to selectively effect brightness, contrast, and/or color. To create one, just select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves. You can also click on the Curves icon in the adjustment layer panel. Don’t worry though – we are not going to do anything complicated with the Curves Adjustment layer.

Graphic9-NewAdjustmentLayer

Of course, you don’t have to use a Curves adjustment layer to make adjustments to your picture, you can use any of the adjustment layers offered by Photoshop. If you are more comfortable with Levels, use that. If you want to change the brightness levels, there are Exposure and Brightness/Contrast adjustment layers. If you want to make changes to color, you can use the Hue/Saturation or Vibrance adjustment layers. I consider Curves to be one of the most powerful tools in Photoshop, so that is what I use, but you can use whichever one you want, or you are most comfortable using.

Step 2: Add in the Effect

Once your Curves adjustment layer is created, just add the effect that you want. Remember that a white mask is automatically applied to all adjustment layers – so it reveals everything – but we will change that in a second.

I want to add contrast, therefore I will just scoot in the endpoints of my curves adjustment layer. You can also drag the line up or down in places. The idea is to steepen the curve where you have a lot of pixels. Doing so adds contrast, which is what we want.

You don’t need to do anything fancy here. Go ahead and add the effect to a greater extent than you will want it in your picture. In other words, overdo it. Don’t worry if the picture doesn’t look quite right.

Graphic1-Curves

In addition, don’t worry that the effect is occurring across the entire picture at this point. We will make the changes apply selectively in just a second. For now, just look at the area of the picture where you want the effect to be applied and add it in accordingly. For example, in this picture below, my change is added to the entire picture, even though it results in effects I don’t want (like blowing out the sky on the right). We will fix that in the next step.

Graphic2-InitialChanges

The left side of this image shows the original image, the right side shows it after the application of the curves adjustment layer. Notice the far right portion of the sky is blown out, but we’ll remedy that by limiting where the effect applies in the next step.

Step 3: Brush it in

Now comes the part when you limit the areas where your changes apply to the image.

Start by masking off the entire image, just press CTRL/CMD+I to do so. You will notice that two things happen. First, the effect you just added to your picture is hidden, it’s as if you never made any changes (don’t worry, the changes are still there, they’re just hidden). Second, the box next to the adjustment layer you created turned black. The box represents the layer mask. As we discussed in the last article, a white layer mask means the changes show through to the image (which is why you saw the effect of the changes when the layer mask was white). A black layer mask means the effect does not show up on the picture. Since our layer mask is now black, the effect does not apply anywhere in the picture.

Graphic3-BlackLayerMask

Now we can begin the process of adding the effect in gradually. To do so, we will use the Brush tool. You can select it from the list of tools on the left side of your screen (tool panel), or you can just press B to call it up. While you are at it, go ahead and press the D key on your keyboard. This will ensure that the brush is set to its default foreground color, which is white, which is what you want since you will be adding the effect to the picture.

If you just left the brush as is, when you used it to paint in your picture, it would add the effect 100%. That is not what you want here. You want to add the effect in gradually, so it blends in. Therefore, go to the top of your screen and find Opacity. Pull the Opacity to the left until it is in the range of 5% to 15%. In my case I will use 10% (you can also just type 15 on your keyboard and it will apply to the opacity of the brush while that tool is selected). The lower the opacity, the less the effect gets added with each brush stroke – and the more gradual the change. If you have the patience to keep the Opacity very low (some people go as low as 2-3%), you will be rewarded with very gradual changes.

Graphic4-BrushTool

Now you will just paint in the effect. Before you do so, also make sure that the hardness of your brush is set to 0%. You want as soft a transition as possible. In addition, use as large a brush as your picture allows. The larger the brush, the softer the transition. The easiest way to change the size of your brush is with the square bracket keys. The left bracket [ makes the brush smaller while the right bracket ] makes it larger.

Now just click in the areas where you want the effect applied. You will have to do this multiple times because you have the opacity set very low. That is okay though, be patient. By doing it this way you are ensuring that it’s blended in gradually. You can also add the effect more in some places and less in others. Just click a few more times where you want the effect to be the most visible.

Graphic5-BrushingIn

Step 4: Check Your Work and Adjust

You can check your work by clicking the eyeball next to the layer. When you turn off the layer, Photoshop will show your image without your effect added. Click the eyeball again to see your progress and turn the layer back on.

Here is the histogram after using the brush tool to paint in white. It shows only the pixels that were selected via the brush.

Here is the histogram after using the brush tool to paint in white. It shows only the pixels that were selected via the brush.

If you found you overdid the effect, you can always back it off. You do so by turning the color of your brush from white to black. Remember that white reveals the adjustments, black hides them. You could undo the effect by stepping backward (Edit > Step Backward), but the easiest way to do so is just press the X key (that switches the foreground and background colors so you now have black on top). Now when you use your brush it will be removing the adjustment you created. Remember that your opacity percentage applies whether your brush is painting with white or black. When you are done removing the adjustment, press the X key to go back to a white brush and continue adding the effect where you want it.

You can also go back and adjust your Curve after you have brushed it in. In fact, you should get in the habit of checking the curve your originally set. Once you have used your brush tool, the histogram will show only those pixels within the selected area (where you painted white). In general, you will want to make sure that the steepest part of the curve corresponds with the part of the histogram where you have the most pixels. Make a tweak to your curve to make sure it looks how you want.

Step 5: Repeat

Another great thing about this technique is that you can do it over and over again. It’s not uncommon to see photographers with a long list of layers, where they have made adjustments to specific parts of the image. You can use this technique to change the brightness values of the picture, making parts lighter or darker. You can also change the contrast, as we did above. You can even change the colors by going into the individual color channels of the Curves adjustment layer. Of course you could also use the brushing techniques above on a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer.

Here I used the same process that was set forth above to brighten the water. I created another Curves adjustment layer, turned the layer mask black, and then brushed in the effect with brush set to white at low opacity.

Graphic7-WaterAdjustmentToo

Other Changes to Your Image

In this particular image, I also wanted to sharpen the pier without sharpening the rest of the image. To do this, I will use the High Pass Filter (which is a remarkably powerful sharpening tool) and apply a layer mask to limit the effect to the pier. This will demonstrate the use of this layer masking technique outside the context of adjustment layers, which we have been using so far.

First, let’s quickly walk through the use of the High Pass filter. To sharpen with the High Pass filter, first duplicate the layer (CTRL + J). Then change the blending mode to Overlay (don’t worry about how this makes your image look). After that, call up the High Pass filter (Filter > Other > High Pass). This will result in a small dialog box where you set the amount. Here I will go with an amount of about 4, which I find is pretty typical. Press ok and the effect will be applied to the entire image. This is a pretty handy sharpening technique, but we’ll make it better by applying it only to a specific area (the pier).

To do this, we’ll add a layer mask and use the same brushing technique. Since we are not starting with an adjustment layer, we will need to add a layer mask. Just click on Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All, which will create a black layer mask. After that, select your brush (press B), set the color to white (press D for default), and set your opacity. Whereas you had been using a very low opacity earlier, in this case you can use a much higher Opacity. Brush in the effect just on the pier and watch it become sharper.

Graphic8-Sharpening

Conclusion

Although this technique is fairly simple, it is a pro move. I know photographers that edit their photos with nothing but a series of Curves adjustment layers where they blend in the effect in this manner. Give it a shot on some of your photos and I believe you will like the results.

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How to Use the Patch Tool in Photoshop

23 Apr

There are tools in Photoshop that I use more than others, and some not at all. The Patch tool is one of my favourites. It is so easy to use and with each version of Photoshop, it has gotten even better.

title-Patch-tool-in-Photoshop

The Patch Tool is located under the fly out menu of the Spot Healing Brush.

What exactly is the Patch Tool for?

The Patch Tool is part of the healing brush set of tools. These are the go-to tools for retouching and repairing your images. The Patch Tool is primarily used to repair larger areas of an image, or get rid of any distractions or blemishes.

The patch tool was introduced into Photoshop at the same time as the Healing Brush. It is similar to the Healing Brush Tool, in that it matches the texture, lighting and shading of the sampled pixels to the source area. But, the Patch Tool uses selection-defined areas instead of a brush.

Prior to Photoshop CS6, you could not work on a separate empty layer when using the Patch Tool, unlike the Spot and Healing Brushes. This meant that you had to duplicate the layer that you were working on. However, in Photoshop CS6, Content-Aware was introduced to the Patch Tool. So you can now work on an image using an empty layer. This has made it quite powerful indeed.

What makes the Patch tool unique is that each time you use, it will give a slightly different result even on the same selection. It is great for retouching larger areas of your image, very fast and quite seamlessly. Or if you are in Destination Mode, this can also duplicate, or clone an object. Although, I rarely use it for that, it’s still an option. I will illustrate this further on in the article. There is also an option to use a pattern or Transparent, neither of which I’ve had a use for yet to date.

What does the Patch Tool look like?

The Patch Tool can be found hidden behind the Healing Brush tool in the Tools panel.

patch tool highlighted in tools panel in photoshop

By clicking on the Spot Healing brush in the tools panel. A fly out menu appears, the Patch tool is the third one down.

How does the Patch Tool work?

  1. Select the Patch tool and draw an area around your selection. It works in a similar way to the Lasso selection.
  2. Move the cursor over the selected area and drag it to the left, right, or in any direction.
  3. Choose whether you choose Source or Destination mode in the Options Bar. You will see a preview of the image as you drag it.
  4. When you release the mouse or stylus, Photoshop does the magic of blending the pixels from the source or the destination area, to merge the pixels with the original selection seamlessly. Deselect by hitting Cmd+D on a Mac. Ctrl+D on a PC.
original image before using the patch tool

Image showing definite areas that needs to be removed.

simple-distractions-removed-patch-tool-normal-mode

The Patch Tool in normal mode removed some unwanted things (cigarette butts) in this image very easily and quickly.

It’s that easy, but you probably won’t get a 100% accurate result every time. You may have to make a few attempts. Just make sure you are working on a duplicate background layer, or using a separate empty layer – not your original background layer.

Tip: You don’t have to use the Patch tool to define a selection. You can use any selection tool and then select the Patch tool.

Before I show you how to use the Patch Tool with Content-Aware, I want to demonstrate how the it can be used to clone an isolated area of your image.

Duplication

In the following example, I want to duplicate the bird and add another one. Similar to the steps above:

  • Make a selection around the bird.
  • Choose Destination in the Options Bar.
  • With the Patch tool selected, position the cursor over the selection and move it into place.
  • It doesn’t do a bad job, however, if you look closely the surrounding pixels of the selection haven’t blended in so well.
patch-tool-options-bar

Click on the Destination radio button to duplicate or clone a specific area.

Bird3-duplicated

Using the Patch tool to clone or duplicate an area of an image in Destination Mode. However, the results can produce a noticeably pixelated edge.

Here’s an alternative method in getting a better result. Once you have made the selection for duplicating an area.

Press Cmd+Alt+T on a Mac (Ctrl+Alt+T on a PC). This brings up the free Transform tool. Now move the selection to a new area on the image. Click on the tick box to commit, or press Enter. The selection is still active as the marching ants are visible around it. With the Patch tool selected, move the cursor over the selection, hold down the mouse or stylus and move the selection slightly and then release. You will notice the surrounding pixels are blended better.

Bird2-duplicated-free-transform

There is a definite improvement using the free transform tool, then holding down the mouse or stylus and moving the selection slightly at the same time just before releasing it.

bird-duplicatedx3-after

And voila, three birds!

Another example of using the free transform tool along with the Patch tool set to Destination Mode.

I like to use the Patch Tool in both the normal mode and content-aware. In normal mode the Patch Tool does a great job for general clean up. However, where there are areas close to the edge of the image, the Patch tool struggles to blend or repair the selection. This is where the Patch tool in Content-Aware mode really shines.

When an area has a sharp contrast, or is up against the edge of a photo, the Patch Tool in normal mode is less effective than using the Patch with Content-Aware. (notice the selection on the right here)

In this image. I removed the unwanted areas using a combination of the Patch Tool in normal mode and Content-Aware.

Content-Aware Mode

In order to use the Patch Tool in this mode, go up to the Options Bar and change it from Normal to Content-Aware. If you want to work using an empty layer above the image, make sure Sample All layers is checked. As well, in the Options Bar, you will also see Adaption.

switching-patch-tool-content-aware

Switching the Patch Tool in the Options Bar from Normal to Content-Aware.

By clicking on this, a drop down menu appears with five options. Your choices range from Very Strict to Very Loose, depending on how much blending is required. You will need to experiment to see which one looks best. Before you deselect, press Cmd+H to hide the marching ants and toggle between each option to see which one you prefer.

Patch-tool-content-aware-5-options

The five options for the Adaptation setting of the Patch Tool in Content-Aware.

You can see quite clearly the differences between the two modes in the images below.

The Patch Tool in Normal Mode is trying to remove the golf ball on the tee from the image.

The Patch tool in Content-Aware has successfully removed the golf ball and tee from the image.

I hope you found this article useful. Do you use the Patch Tool in Photoshop? Please let me know in the comments below.

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How to Cut Out the Subject From the Background in Photoshop

10 Apr

This video by Chris from Spoon Graphics does a good job of going over many of the options available inside Photoshop for cutting things out. The most common use is to cut out the subject from the background, to place it on a different image or background – as in when making composite images.

Watch as he goes over the options for cutting things out:

Quick and dirty selection tools and methods:

  • Eraser tool (not the best choice, this is shown in the video)
  • The Magic Wand tool
  • Quick Selection tool

Pro techniques tools include:

  • Manually drawing the selection
  • Lasso tool (can be frustrating and tricky to use)
  • Pen tool (also using Paths)
  • Tonal selection
  • Channels (plus Curves or Levels)
  • Color range (quick selections based on tones in an image)
  • Layer masks
  • Refine edge tool
  • Defringe to remove halos and outlines
  • Paint hair back in manually
  • Buy a Photoshop plugin like Topaz Remask

Here’s a second video from Glyn Dewis that puts some of those techniques to use to cut out a tree from the background.

Do you know any other methods for doing cut outs? What’s your favorite? Please share in the comments below.

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How to Use the Clone Stamp Tool in Photoshop to Make Clear Skin

06 Apr

We’re all beautiful. Sometimes however, we have imperfections that can be a distraction (most often they are magnified in our minds and really not as bad as we think). In this tutorial, I am going to show you how you can use a basic Photoshop tool, the Clone Stamp, to create clear, natural looking skin in your photos.

Image 1

It’s always a good idea to work on a separate layer when editing or retouching images in Photoshop. Once you have your image open, you should create either a new layer or a duplicate layer which you will edit on. You can create a new layer by clicking the new layer button in your Layers Panel, or by selecting Shift+Ctrl+N on a PC (or Shift+Command+N on a Mac). If you prefer to create a copy layer like I have, you can right click on the image in the Layers Panel and select the Duplicate Layer option provided. If you prefer to use keyboard shortcuts, you can simply press Ctrl+J if you’re using a Windows PC, or Command+J if you’re using a Mac.

Image 2

Select the Clone Stamp tool from the tools panel, it conveniently looks like a miniature office stamp. In the options bar at the top of your screen, ensure that your brush softness is set to zero, the mode is normal, and it is set to sample Current & Below. You can keep your opacity anywhere between 10 and 30% depending on the subject. To get a natural looking result, it’s best to gradually work your way up to the final complexion or shade you are trying to attain.

Image 3

Image 4

Zoom in on the area you would like to retouch by pressing Ctrl (or Command) and the plus (+) symbol on your keyboard. In this image, I’m going to focus on the shoulders mainly. You don’t need to zoom all the way in to the area, but ensure that it’s zoomed enough for you to clearly see the area you are trying to adjust.

Image 5

The Clone Stamp tool works by allowing you to duplicate a selected area, over to another section of your image. It’s really great for removing unwanted elements from your photos. Hold down the Alt key on your keyboard and click on an area of skin close to the spot you are trying to remove. If your spot is lighter than the overall skin tone, select an area that is darker than the spot; if the spot is darker than the surrounding skin, you will make your selection from an area that is slightly lighter than it.

Play around with your Clone Stamp brush size and the opacity, until you find a combination that gives your best results. You will more than likely end up using a variety of brush sizes and opacities for the image (change the sample area frequently as well so you don’t get a repetition of patterns). The clone stamp method is very effective at clearing skin but requires patience on your part. A few other minor adjustments resulted in the final image below.

Image 6

With practice and patience you can clone your way to clear skin with the Clone Stamp tool. Have fun!

Please share any questions and comments you have about using the Clone Stamp tool to make clear skin.

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How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop

11 Mar

Complementary Colors 2_1

There are a lot of really great tools to use in Photoshop, or Lightroom, to get the colors in your photos to pop, creating a more vibrant portrait. But, did you know that you can create color popping portraits, before you even open them for post-processing? It’s true!

By incorporating some of the simple things below ,before you take a photo, the color in your portraits will really stand out, and help you create eye catching photographs.

Make sure your background colors complement the subject

Understanding what colors complement each other, will really help the colors in your portraits pop. Complementary colors are red and green, orange and blue, and purple and yellow. Using combinations of these colors with your subject and background, will help create a flattering portrait.

It’s important to know the colors of the location where you are going to be shooting. If you know you’ll be at a location filled with yellow wildflowers, have your subject wear purple shades. If your background is lush green grass, with green trees all around, your subject will look best in pinks or reds. Know the area you will be shooting, and have your subject wear the color that complements that background. A complementary color palette will make your photo stand out!

Example images of complementary color schemes below, and top.

Complementary Colors_1

Use a neutral background

If your subject is wearing really colorful clothing, there is an easy way to make that color really stand out. A trick to get your subjects to really pop is to take a closer look at your background. Find an area that is plain, with neutral tones. Colorful, busy backgrounds can be fun, but they can also make a photo too cluttered, and draw the eye away from the subject, especially if they are also wearing bright clothing.

Neutral Background_1

Too much color throughout the photo won’t cause anything to pop out at you. Backgrounds that are more neutral will cause the eye to look directly at the subject, and the colorful clothing or accessories they are wearing. Look for a duller background such as: a dirt path, a mountain, stones, or anything that has a more earthy tone.

Neutral background 2_1

Use a colorful background

You can still make the colors really pop out in your portraits, even if the subject is not wearing colorful clothes. If they are wearing white, black, or neutral colors, find an area in your environment with rich color. Look around for flowers, or brightly colored walls to place them near. With your neutral subject next to bright color, the colors will jump out.

Colorful background_1

Eliminate anything distracting

Finally, before you press the shutter, make sure that there are no distracting objects in the background, that will pull the eye away from the subject. Are there other people in the distant background? Trash on the ground? Different colored cars in a nearby parking lot? If you can see them through your camera, you will see these distracting things in your final picture.

Recompose your subject so you don’t see those people in the distance. Pick up any trash that might be on the ground near the subject. Eliminating anything that will distract from the subject, will make the subject, and the colors they are wearing, pop even more.

Colorful background 2_1

If you have used some of these tips to plan your portrait, the colors should look pretty nice without doing any extra work in Photoshop or Lightroom. If you’d like, you can use those programs to enhance the color even more. Levels, hue/saturation or selective color are some fantastic tools for creating brighter and bolder colors in Photoshop. Play around with the different tools and see if you can get your portrait bright and colorful.

Please share your portraits and any questions or tips you may have on this topic, in the comments below.

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Getting Started with Layer Masks in Photoshop – a Beginners Tutorial

09 Mar

Barn-DPSexample

Much of the power of Photoshop comes from its use of layers, which can best be thought of as transparency over your image. Layers have lots of benefits, like the fact that you can work on your image without affecting the pixels in the underlying image. But perhaps the most powerful aspect of layers, is your ability to affect exactly where, how, and how much of your changes will affect the underlying image. That is all done through layer masks. In fact, it might be fair to say that layers are really only effective because of layer masks.

What are layer masks? Think of them as filters that let you control the impact of the changes you make to your image. Just like you can change ordinary filters to determine what gets through them, so you can adjust a layer mask to control what changes. If that sounds confusing, don’t worry, and I will walk you through the basics of layer masks now.

How Layer Masks Work

To understand layer masks, it is best to start with the simplest form. A mask that does nothing – that is, it lets absolutely everything through from the layer you are working on, to the layer underneath – it is represented by solid white. This is referred to as a “reveal all” layer mask in Photoshop. When you look at your layers palette with a white/reveal-all layer mask, it will look like this:

Graphic1-WhiteLayerMask

When your mask is all white, any change you make on that layer, will apply to the underlying image. How do you create an all white image layer mask? Very often – as in the case of adjustment layers – one will automatically be created for you. Or, to add one yourself, just go to Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal All. You can also click on this button at the bottom of the layers palette to create one on the layer you have selected

Graphic2-LayerMaskButton2

An all-white layer mask is actually pretty useless. The utility of the layer mask comes when we start masking (hiding) things off. Before we get into that, however, let’s talk about how to create an all-black layer mask. As you might expect, a black layer mask works the opposite way as a white one, and lets absolutely nothing through to the layer underneath. You can make all the changes you want to this layer, and it will have no impact on your underlying image. Here is how it will look when you create one:

Graphic3-BlackLayerMask

To create an all-black layer mask, just go to Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All or press ALT while clicking on the same button used in the graphic above to make a white layer mask. Now that you know what layer masks are, and the basics, we can get into the real fun of them, which is where you have blacks, whites, and even tones of gray in the same mask.

Masking

Layer masks allow you to apply changes to some parts of the image, but not others. Just remember that wherever your layer mask is white, it will let the changes you made to the layer through, so that they apply to your image below. Wherever your layer mask is black, it will not let the changes through, so they will not apply to the image. Before we get into how to do that, let’s talk about when you might want apply changes to only part of your image.

Let’s take this picture of an old barn. I’m choosing this image because it will be simple to adjust using masks, as it only involves two main areas. As you can see, the sky is too bright, while the barn and foreground are too dark. In doing this for yourself for the first time, use a simple picture like this to get started.

Graphic4-BarnOriginal

As you probably know, you do not want to edit these two areas in the same way, so a global adjustment to the whole image won’t help. You can, however, use masks so that edits only apply to the areas you want. For example you might darken the sky like this:

Graphic5-SkyDarkened

Here I masked off the barn and foreground so that the darkening only applies to the sky. I used a quick Curves Adjustment layer to darken the image. As you can see, the mask of the sky is white (so the changes affect the image in that area), while the mask of the barn and foreground is black (so the changes do not affect that part of the image).

Now let’s do the opposite to brighten up the barn and the foreground. Once again, I’ll use a layer mask so that my changes only affect the barn and the foreground, so that it looks like this:

Graphic6-ForegroundBrightened

This is the same move I made above, but in reverse. I created another Curves adjustment layer to brighten up the image. Now the layer mask is white over the barn and foreground, which means the brightening effect shows through in those areas. The layer mask is black over the sky though, so the brightening effect does not impact the sky (which is already bright enough).

But how do you do go about creating these layers and masks? Let’s find out now.

Creating a Layer Mask with Defined Edges

There are different ways to mask off portions of your images. Sometimes you will want to create a mask with a hard or definite edge, while other times you will want to gently blend in the effect to a portion of your image. In this article I will cover how to create a mask on an image with a hard edge (I will get into blending in changes in a later article). The photo of the decaying barn used above will work just fine for this, so let’s stick with that photo as our example.

Step 1: Make Your Selection

To darken the sky in the image, the first thing you need to do is select the sky. To do so, click on the Quick Selection tool from your tools panel. Then click anywhere in the sky, and while holding the mouse button down, move around where you want to select pixels for your selection. Photoshop will automatically detect edges. To make the Quick Selection tool larger or smaller, use the square bracket ( [ and ] ) keys. If you end up selecting pixels you don’t want for your selection (and you inevitably will), press the ALT key (Option on a Mac) while clicking and it will remove them.

Graphic7-MarchingAnts

Photoshop is famous for providing several different ways of accomplishing the same thing. Making selections with hard edges is just such a case. You don’t have to use the Quick Selection tool. You can also use the Magic Wand tool, which will select similarly-toned pixels. Or you could use the Pen tool, or the Magnetic Lasso tool to draw the edges yourself. I could actually see a good case here for the Color Range command (Select > Color Range), which selects pixels of similar colors. Any one of those tools could work. While I want to point that out, I don’t want to get bogged down covering each of them. For now, just know that while I typically use the Quick Selection tool and did so here, there are other tools you can use to make the selection.

Step 2: Refine Your Selection

Once you make your selection, you can refine it a bit if you wish. Just bring up the Refine Edge dialog box and make adjustments there.

Graphic8-RefineEdge

If you do not like the selection, you can always clean it up a bit later. Once you have made the adjustments, you can use the Brush tool to add or subtract parts of the image from the mask (more about that in a minute).

Step 3: Apply the Effect

Now that your selection is created and refined, you are ready to put it into action. What we want to do is darken the sky. There are different ways to go about doing that, but what I’m going to use is a Curves adjustment layer. You don’t have to use this tool though, this same process will work when you create any sort of adjustment layer. If you are more comfortable using Levels or Brightness/Contrast, for example, use those.

In any case, all you will do now (with your selection still active) is click to create the Curves adjustment layer (or whatever type of adjustment layer you are comfortable with) and voila, the layer is created with a mask that has hidden the pixels you don’t want to change. It will look something like this:

Graphic9-HardEdgedLayerMask

If you use a Curves adjustment layer like I did, you just pull the line down to darken the picture. Pull it down to the left of the main cluster of pixels so that the curve is steepened through that main cluster. Of course, you may be using Levels or some other darkening tool, so just use those in whatever way you are comfortable.

Step 4: Repeat for Other Areas

In our example, we have now darkened the sky, but there are other problems with the picture. In particular, the barn and foreground are still too dark. How do we go about changing that? Pretty much the same way we did for the sky.

Start by making the selection. You can do it the same way as you did for the sky if you want. Just grab the Quick Selection tool and click around in the dark areas to create the selection. In this case, you can also just create a selection that is the opposite of the selection we previously created. That is, you previously made a selection of the sky and left everything else alone. Now you want to make a selection of everything else and leave the sky alone. To do that, you can just call up your old selection (Select > Reselect) and then tell Photoshop to reverse it (Select > Inverse). You now have a selection of everything but the sky, which is what you want.

From there, just create a Curves adjustment layer (or whatever tool you prefer to use) and apply the effect. Once you brighten the foreground, here is how it looks:

Graphic10-Lightening

Step 5: Cleaning up Your Masks

You may find, when you are done, that there are parts of the image that don’t look quite right. Perhaps there are pixels included in one of your masks that you didn’t want, or conversely you missed pixels that should have been in the image. You can clean up the mask after the fact. I find that the easiest way is to use the Brush tool.

Graphic11-Brush

Select the Brush tool on the tools panel. Once you do so, pay attention to the foreground color, that which the brush will use. If you set the brush to white, it will add to a selection (show the layer through the mask). If you set the brush to black, it will remove pixels from the selection (hide the layer with the mask). Some keyboard shortcuts to keep in mind are B to bring up the Brush tool in the first place, then D to make sure the colors are set to the default (black and white), and finally X to switch between black and white.

Graphic12-BrushControls

The Brush tool is great because you can set the hardness of the edge. Start by keeping it at its softest setting, and just changing the size of the Brush by using the bracket keys [ and ]. Use it to touch up the selection (mask) where needed (make sure you are painting on the mask NOT on the actual layer). Another tip is to press ALT (option on a Mac) while clicking on the mask in your layers palatte, which will cause the screen to display the mask only. That way you can see exactly where your mask is being applied. Press ALT again while clicking on the mask to go back to normal view.

Moving on From Here

This exercise will get you started using layer masks to make adjustments to portions of your pictures. Once you have done this a few times and start to master it, there are a lot of other additional techniques you can add to further enhance your photos. For example, while this article showed you how to use masks where you have defined edges, you can gradually blend in effects using masks as well. Further, while in this article we only affected brightness, you can use layer masks to affect color, brightness, and contrast to a great degree.

Of course, masks are not just for adjustment layers either. You can make changes on layers and control where and to what extent, the change gets applied. For example, you might sharpen or blur a layer, and then use a mask to apply that effect to only a portion of the picture. It also works well by making changes with a plug-in to a duplicate layer, then creating a mask to control the application of that plug-in’s changes.

When you use layer masks, you are well on your way to unleashing the full power of Photoshop. Get started with the techniques in this article, then you can add on other aspects from there.

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How to Use the Hue Saturation Adjustment in Photoshop – a Video Tutorial

06 Mar

Learning to understand and master the hue/saturation settings in both Lightroom and Photoshop can help you take your editing to the next level. If you want to see how it’s done in Lightroom check out: Understanding the HSL Panel in Lightroom for Beginners.

Hue Saturation Adjustments in Photoshop

If you prefer Photoshop, watch this video from Phlearn on how to use the Hue/Saturation adjustment tools in Phtoshop to change colors both globally, and locally in your image. He also goes over the Colorize function, and painting on your image with a color.

Have you experimented with Hue Saturation in Photoshop? Tell us what you’ve learned, and you’ve applied it to your images. Share the in the comments below as well.

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2 Quick Ways to Add a Sunflare in Photoshop

28 Feb

Sunflares can make an otherwise dull image, look pretty dramatic. It’s very tricky to get good images of a sunflare in-camera, especially when using natural light only, as the contrast between the light and dark parts of the image is often too great that no amount of Active-D lighting can fix. Thankfully, we have Photoshop and many special effects like sunflares can be magically created, added, or enhanced, using this software’s mind-blowing functionality.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial

Why add a sunflare?

Special effects, such as a sunflare, ultimately boil down to the photographer’s personal taste. Here are a few reasons why sunflares may be added in post-processing.

  • To exaggerate the sun’s rays.
  • To enhance contrast and inject drama.
  • To hide unwanted clutter.
  • To achieve artistic effects, for example if you are aiming for a dreamy and romantic effect, or soft and hazy ambience, such as the image above right.

When not to add a sunflare?

When you discover the magic of Photoshop, you can easily get carried away by the excitement of adding special effects, and there’s the danger that you add it on all your images, even when completely out of context, out of place, or totally unnecessary. I suggest avoiding sunflares when:

  • There is no sun at all or any large light source, in the shot.
  • When it makes the image look completely fake, when you really mean for it to look natural.

How to add flare in Photoshop

As is the usual case in Photoshop, there are always several methods to do something. This tutorial focuses on two ways of adding a sunflare.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (1)

1. Method one: Using the LensFlare filter

Adding a bright sunflare to the image above won’t make much difference to an already washed out sky and part of the building. First of all you would need to create contrast by darkening the image. Copy the image on a new layer using CMD/CNTRL + J, and darken it using a Levels adjustment layer.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (12)

Merge the background copy layer with the levels layer, by selecting both layers and typing CMD/CNTRL + E to merge them. Now you have a new darkened layer. Make another copy of the new darkened layer, then work on this new layer with the sunflare.

When you add sunflare, it is automatically added on the layer as part of the image, and not on a new layer by itself. So to be safe, keep a copy of the darkened layer which you don’t touch. Always work on the new copy with the sunflare, so in case you make mistakes or need to reposition your sunflare, then you won’t need make a darkened layer all over again. You can just delete the layer you are working on, and duplicate your untouched dark layer, to start adding a new sunflare.

In Photoshop, bring up the Lens Flare from the top menu bar using the Filter>Render>LensFlare drop down menu.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (1)

You can experiment which type of lens flare you want to add, by clicking the circles next to the type of sunflare option, and adjusting the brightness intensity by moving the slider. Click OK when you’re happy with your choice, and the sunflare will be superimposed on your image on the same layer.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (8)

Once the sunflare is applied to the image, add a layer mask, and using a soft black brush, remove some of the sunflare from areas you want to protect such as faces (make sure to paint on the mask, not on the layer).

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (9)

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (14)

To finish, I added a photo filter on top, to warm up the image. Below is the image before and after the sunflare has been added. It is always a good practice to save the image with sunflare as a new JPG file, and always save your Photoshop file (PSD) with all the layers in tact, in case you need to revisit it again in the future.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (3)

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (2)
2. Method two: Using overlays

The built-in sunflares in Photoshop have very limited choices, as you have seen above. There are far more interesting sunflares of all shapes and colours available, in the form of overlays.

Below is an example of an image with a faint sunflare added in Photoshop, using one of the built-in choices above. I don’t think this is dramatic enough. In this example, I am exaggerating the sunflare by adding a sunflare overlay.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (5)

First darken the image with Levels, as in the first method above, using a layer mask to protect areas you don’t want to be darkened. Then apply the overlay on the entire image, as shown below.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (11)

Change the layer blend mode to Screen, which makes all the dark areas of the overlay disappear, and you will only be left with the light areas superimposed on your image.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (10)

Below is the final JPG image with the new sunflare overlay, with the whole image darkened for more contrast.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (4)

Below is another image about to be treated with a sunflare overlay, but this time way more exaggerated than the example above.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (7)

The overlay is so strong, as you can see on Layer 1 below, I have applied a levels layer to brighten it a little, and a layer mask to gradually remove some of the overlay from areas I wanted to protect.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (7)

Below is the final image with an exaggerated sunflare overlay, that looks like it has been photographed through a warm filter over the lens.

special-effects-sunflare-photoshop-tutorial (7)

A few things to note when applying special effects

  • Be subtle and experiment with the opacity to achieve the desired effect.
  • Darken surrounding areas to emphasize flare, especially on a very bright image.
  • Mask off special effects from faces, and areas that clearly do not need it. The built-in sunflares in Photoshop have circular flares that appear too perfect and hard-edged. You can always mask some of this away to take the edge off, and soften the flare effect.

I hope you have enjoyed this little tutorial in adding a sunflare special effect in Photoshop. Do you have other tips and ways to add sunflares in post-processing? Please share them in the comments below.

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How to Use the Channel Mixer in Photoshop to Change Colors in Your Images

24 Feb

There may be times when you want to play around with some elements in your images. Perhaps you want to change a color to a more suitable one in post-processing. One of the tools you can use in Photoshop is the Channel Mixer. It is a simple process that allows you to change the color of any element in your image to any other color under the rainbow. The Channel Mixer adjustment is widely used for making good black and white image conversions, correcting color casts, and exaggerating color. But why not use it for fun too, such as changing the color completely!

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0007

Before you start, however, there is one vital thing you must know, if you want to work in Photoshop in a non-destructive way: layers and masks.

The examples below are from a photoshoot I did with my girls. I did not like the colors of their capes, and didn’t have any other alternative, so Photoshop was to be the answer.

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0000

The first thing you need to do once your file is opened, is to select the area where you want the color changed using either the quick mask mode, or one of the lasso tools. While your selection is highlighted, add a channel mixer adjustment layer and your selection will automatically be added as a layer mask. Click on the channel mixer icon to the left of the layer itself and a window pops-up.

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0001

There are three values under the output channel: Red, Green, and Blue . You need to bring up each value and move the sliders until you get your desired color. It will take a little experimenting, and going backwards and forwards between the three colors, until you arrive at your chosen color. When the color change is vastly different, you will notice that the RGB values individually requires major changes.

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0002

You need to keep an eye on the total value for each channel, aim to keep it within 100%. A warning is displayed when you go over 100%, as this means the color output is too bright or dark, and you are losing data in the darkest areas or the highlights. A negative value means you are adding more of the colour to the channel, and a positive value means you are taking away.

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0003

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0004

Once you have decided on your new color, don’t forget to check the edges and carefully mask around if necessary. When the new color is a lot darker than the original color, such as on the image below, more meticulous masking is necessary to clean up the edges. In some cases, painting the highlights with the same color is needed for the image to look natural. You may also have to adjust the opacity of the brush, or the adjustment layer as required. The important thing is to make sure the image looks believable, if that was your original intention.

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0005

Once you have changed the color and cleaned up your masking work, check the overall look, and adjust the background accordingly.  In the case of the image below, the original background looked too bright for the new moodier look so I darkened it to go with the scene I was after.  There are various ways of darkening an image in Photoshop. The method I used here was to duplicate the original image (duplicate layer), and change the Blend Mode to Multiply. You can then mask out any areas you don’t want to get too dark, or change the opacity of the layer, as done on the image below.

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0006

You will notice that I have added additional layers such as levels for brightening some areas, and photo filters for warming up or cooling down other areas. It is essential to have a good look at the overall picture, not just the isolated area and selective changes you have made. This is because our perception of color is relative and mostly dependent on the colors around them. Here are the before and after images (below).

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0010

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0008

Your Photoshop play doesn’t have to end in isolated color changes. You can experiment in many various ways to achieve any look you desire. In the image below I decided to go for a more monochromatic look. This involved selecting the background, applying another channel mixer adjustment layer, and moving the sliders on each RGB value until I got the color I was after.

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0009

Or you can throw all caution to the wind and go totally crazy. You can add and remove colors from each channel at purely 100% in a mix and match fashion, and see what array of unrealistic looks you get, such as the magenta image below – for fun!

channel-mixer-photoshop-tutorial_0011

I hope this has been a little helpful tip for your Photoshop play.  Do you have other ideas on how to use the channel mixer to achieve various effects in Photoshop? Share them in the comments section below please.

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