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Archive for January, 2020

Confirmed: Venus Optics working on new line of ultra-fast ‘Argus’ F0.95 lenses

21 Jan

Update (11:30 EST, January 20): Venus Optics has confirmed to DPReview that it’s working on not just one, but multiple F0.95 lenses. A Venus Optics spokesperson says Venus Optics does ‘not have further information about these lenses’ at this time and concluded their statement saying ‘As usual, we are just trying to create something unique, good quality and affordable for photographers.’ The headline of this article has been changed to reflect this confirmation.


According to a report from FujiAddict, Venus Optics, manufacturer of the Laowa lens brand, is working on a new ultra-fast F0.95 lens for DSLR and mirrorless full-frame and APS-C camera systems.

FujiAddict’s report, which says the lens will be denoted by the ‘Argus’ moniker, is substantiated by an image posted to Chinese social media platform Weibo that claims to show a frame from a presentation that simply shows the words ‘Laowa F0.95.’ At this time, no information is given regarding the focal length or specific mounts this purported lens will be available for. However, FujiAddict claims ‘Many are speculating it will be wide and my contact says they expect it to be between 20–35mm.’

As noted in the report, Venus Optics isn’t the first third-party lens manufacturer to create an ultra-fast prime lens. In addition to the legendary Leica Noctilux F0.95 lens, SLR Magic has a slew of ‘HyperPrime’ lenses for both still and cinema photography.

We have contacted Venus Optics in an effort to confirm this report. This article will be updated accordingly if we hear back.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DIY Photography: How to Make Your Own DIY Lightstick for Cool Photos!

21 Jan

The post DIY Photography: How to Make Your Own DIY Lightstick for Cool Photos! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

diy-lightstick

In this article, you’ll learn how to make your own DIY lightstick.

You’ll be able to use this to create fascinating light paintings, and the best thing is, you can do it on a budget!

The simple DIY lightstick is made with easily available household objects and a set of fairy lights. Once it’s made, you’ll be able to create beautiful light patterns during long exposure photos.

DIY-Lightstick

Using a light stick for light painting can transform a scene.

What is light painting

Light painting is a long exposure technique.

To achieve this kind of photo, you’ll need a camera on a tripod, and usually, the photo will be taken at night. The exception to this would be a studio that is completely dark – this too can be used for light painting.

Most people will know light painting as simply spelling something in the sky with a torch.

There are two main forms of light painting, kinetic light painting, and regular light painting. In this article, you’ll learn about using a light stick to create regular light paintings.

Image: There are light sticks out there you can buy. This photo was taken using a pixelstick.

There are light sticks out there you can buy. This photo was taken using a pixelstick.

Lightsticks you can buy

You can buy a ready-made lightstick.

Indeed, some of these are already quite cheap and will give you the chance to practice some of the ideas presented in this article. There are also those sticks that are more expensive.

It’s worth keeping the more expensive sticks in mind, as they will give you more options when compared to a stick like the one you’ll be shown how to make in this article.

  • LED light sticks – The creme of the crop are the LED light sticks made by pixelstick and magilight.
  • Glow sticks – The glow sticks often seen at parties and festivals. They’re cheap, and can be used for light painting.
  • Toy light stick – Head down to your local toy shop and pick up a light saber. Indulge your inner child, and it also makes some great photos!
  • Light painting swords – These are similar to kids’ toys, but are made specifically with photographers’ needs in mind. They are available through this site.
DIY-Lightstick

You’ll use tie straps to attach the wire to the tube.

How to make a DIY light stick

There are some very good cheap options when it comes to light sticks, and you might decide to pursue one of those instead of making a DIY lightstick. If you want a little challenge, then read on and see what you can make.

The supplies you’ll need

First of all, let’s gather the supplies you’ll need. You can find most at home, however, you may need to visit your local DIY store or look online for some too.

  • Battery operated fairy lights.
  • A piece of plumbing pipe. Around one meter long, and 2cm in diameter.
  • A plumbing pipe connection piece. A t-shape variety is best, and also 2cm in diameter.
  • A set of tie straps.
  • A copper piping half-circle bracket.
  • Wire cutters.
  • A saw.
  • Solder and soldering iron.
  • Electrical tape.
  • Glue gun.
  • Bungee cord.
Image: The battery pack needs to be glued onto the stick as well.

The battery pack needs to be glued onto the stick as well.

Putting the whole thing together

Now you have everything you need, take the following steps to put it all together.

The task is fairly simple. It’s really just attaching some fairy lights to a stick. Why the plumbing tube? That’s so you can break it down to a stick that’s half of its size in an easy way.

Attaching the fairy lights

  1. Take your length of plumbing tube and use the saw to cut it in half. The length of the 2 halves is optional. In my case, I went with 50cm.
  2. Attach the two pieces together using the connection piece.
  3. Now Attach the end of the fairy light wire to the end of your tube use a tie strap.
  4. Pull out the fairy lights to the length of the tube. Then give a little slack to allow the tube to be detached at the connection point.
  5. Use another tie strap to attach the fairy light wire to the other end of the tube.
  6. Run the wire back down the length of tubing again, and then attach the wire to the tube using another tie strap.
  7. You’ll now have excess wire and fairy lights left over. You could repeat steps 4,5 and 6 if you wish, or continue to the next part.
DIY-Lightstick

This stick divides into two. This makes it easier to carry around and gives you the option of using the stick at half its full length.

Putting the battery pack on, and finishing the stick.

  1. Use the wire cutters to cut away the excess wire, leaving around 20cm to the battery pack.
  2. Strip away some of the plastic coatings on the wire on the side with the battery pack, and the side attached to the piping.
  3. Solder the two pieces of wire back together again. Make sure the correct wire is soldered together or the lights won’t work. When you cut the wire, two wires will be revealed on each side of the wiring. You need to solder this back together to re-complete the circuit.
  4. Use the electrical tape to cover up the soldered wire, or if you have it, plastic that shrinks when heated to cover the join.
  5. Test the lights, they should now work, and you should now have a light stick!
  6. Take the copper bracket and hoop it around the pipe, and touch it to the battery pack to ensure it connects.
  7. Use the glue gun and add glue to the joining section on the battery pack, the pipe, and the copper bracket.
  8. Hold everything in place until the glue has dried hard.
  9. Finally, run the length of the bungee cord through the piping, and knot it at both ends. The cord should be tight enough to hold the pipe together, but loose enough that you can easily detach the two halves of the stick.
DIY-Lightstick

The stick is now ready, it just needs the bungee cord put through the middle.

Light painting with a lightstick

Now you have a DIY lightstick you can use to create interesting light paintings.

Lightsticks work because of the repetition factor – lots of lights moving altogether in a uniform pattern. It’s best to keep your light paintings relatively simple. Use defined movements, like spinning around, to create light cones. Spin the stick around to create circles, or simply walking along with the stick to create light ribbons.

What you do creatively with the stick is now up to you, but enjoy experimenting!

Image: It’s usually a good idea to keep light paintings simple, with a defined message.

It’s usually a good idea to keep light paintings simple, with a defined message.

Conclusion

It’s always fun to make something for your photography. Have you ever tried to make an accessory yourself? Maybe it was for flash photography, something like a snoot?

Here at digital photography school, we love to hear from you, so please share your experiences. If you have any light painting photos taken with a light stick that you would like to share, that would also be great!

You may also like:

  • DIY Photography Backdrops for Still Life and Product Photography
  • 5 DIY Macro Photography Hacks for Stunning Macro Photos (on a Budget)
  • How to Make a DIY Photography Softbox
  • Try this DIY Neutral Density Filter for Long Exposure Photos
  • DIY Food Photography Props on a Budget
  • DIY Photography Backlighting for Beginners
  • How to Make a DIY Lens Hood to Eliminate Lens Flare
  • How to Make Easy and Affordable DIY Food Photography Backdrops

 

The post DIY Photography: How to Make Your Own DIY Lightstick for Cool Photos! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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Following initial reports, Fujifilm confirms ‘small percentage’ of X-Pro3 units have an EVF defect

21 Jan
DPReview reader and Fujifilm X-Pro 3 owner Etienne Waldron shared the above photo in an attempt to demonstrate the brightness issue with the EVF display inside his unit.

Following concerns shared in the DPReview forums and on Fuji X Forums, Fujifilm has confirmed to DPReview that a ‘very small percentage’ of its X-Pro3 cameras are experiencing an issue that impacts the electronic viewfinder. As reported by impacted camera owners, including DPReview reader Etienne Waldron, who kindly shared the photos in this article with us, this issue causes the display in the EVF to appear substantially overexposed, though the problem doesn’t impact the model’s LCD.

The brightness issue doesn’t just affect the image either—reports note it’s apparent throughout the menu as well.

The exact cause of this issue is unclear at this time, and Fujifilm’s below statement doesn’t divulge what exactly is going on, but it appears to be a hardware defect rather than a software problem. Fuji is merely advising impacted customers to get in contact with its customer service for help, with a Fujifilm spokesperson telling DPReview the following in a statement via email:

Our customers are always our number one priority. We take feedback to heart and always strive to provide the highest possible quality in our products. We are aware of the phenomenon affecting the viewfinder in a very small percentage of X-Pro3 units. We advise our customers to contact Fujifilm customer service directly to solve any questions or concerns they may have about the camera.

Note the difference between the flip-down LCD and the EVF.

This issue is particularly frustrating for users in light of the camera’s EVF-centric design. The model features a hidden flip-down LCD that limits the ways in which the camera can be used in the absence of the viewfinder. Because the defect is causing a very overexposed image, the EVF is essentially unusable for impacted camera owners. Unfortunately, replacing the faulty camera is the only known solution to the problem at this time.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Fragment 8 is a retro-inspired video camera that records to GIFs instead of film

21 Jan

Super 8 cameras were the consumer’s tool of choice for recording images before VHS and other video systems became affordable. The Fragment 8 from Loft Factory is a digital camera that aims to replicate the look, feel and image quality of 1960s and 70s Super 8 cameras using modern technologies.

It can record in either MP4 or GIF formats at 720p resolution on a 1/3 CCD sensor and is targeted of users of Instagram, TikTok and other social media platforms that can process short video clips and animated GIFs. It produces the characteristic Super 8 shutter sound and the frame rate can be set to either 9 or 24 fps for authentic results. An optional filter attachment lets you use three effect filters: Kaleidoscope Six, Star Filter and Radial Filter.

Operation is deliberately kept simple, with a fixed-focus lens, no manual controls and a built-in viewfinder. The camera features a tripod mount on the bottom of the handle and weighs just 250g (8.8oz), which should make it fairly portable.

The team behind the Fragment 8 is currently looking to raise funds for large scale production on Kickstarter and pledge options are plentiful. You can pledge as little as $ 78 for the Fragment 8 camera and one basic lens, or up to $ 128 which includes the camera body with genuine leather trimming, the basic lens, one rotating lens plate and three filter lenses. Shipping is estimated for May 2020.

More information is available on Kickstarter or on the Lofty Factory website.


Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition.


New Kickstarter Project Revives the Super 8 Retro Camera with GIF Format

“Fragment 8,” the World’s First Camera to Directly Shoot GIF’s is a Perfect Replica of a Super 8 Camera, Including Shutter Sound, 2-Minute Time Limit and Vintage Image Look

Introduced in 1965, Super 8 cameras launched a home movie revolution by giving regular people the ability to instantly capture a moment of their lives using a small, affordable hand-held film camera. The nostalgic feel of Super 8 movies is instantly recognizable in their characteristic faded color tone, graininess, slightly jerky motion and the short lengths (typically 3 minutes max per Super 8 film cartridge) which made them feel so spontaneous. A new Kickstarter project called the “Fragment 8 Retro Camera” has launched for a new camera that not only duplicates the visual look of Super 8 movies – in MP4 or GIF output so they can be shared online in seconds – but faithfully recreates the actual act of using a Super 8 camera itself, complete with clacking shutter sound.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fragment8/slice-of-life-fragment-8-retro-camera

Produced in Hong Kong by the Lofty Factory, Ltd., the “Fragment 8” camera uses modern digital technology to faithfully recreate the authentic look of Super 8 home movies, but with the convenience of USB output in either MP4 or GIF formats at 720p resolution. The Fragment 8 can shoot in either 9 frames per second or 24 and options include three different add-on lenses – Kaleidoscope Six, Star Filter and Radial Filter – for specialized effects – as well as a standard 17mm lens mount. The camera is faithfully made with a simple built-in viewfinder and focus-free operation. The artfully crafted curves are accented with optional genuine leather and there’s a standard tripod mount on the bottom. The camera weighs only 250 grams – easy to carry anywhere, all day.

Kickstarter pledges begin at HK $ 600 (USD $ 78) for the “Dare to Try” level which will be rewarded with one of the first 100 pieces of production in the “Classic Package” which includes the Fragment 8 camera, one basic lens and beautiful gift packaging. Kickstarter Early Bird pledges are HK $ 700 (USD $ 90) for the Classic Package (USD $ 128 retail value). The third Kickstarter level is at HK $ 980 (USD $ 128) for the “Combo Pack” which includes the Fragment 8 body with genuine leather, the basic lens, one rotating lens plate and three different filter lenses (Kaleidoscope Six, Star Filter and Radial Filter) and beautiful gift packaging (USD $ 198 retail price).

Reward delivery is estimated for May 2020.

The Fragment 8 camera was developed by Hong Kong software artist Manhin, who completed the ID & MD design and software development, in cooperation with the graphic and film director Chun Yin.

There’s nothing quite as uniquely beautiful as a Super 8 movie,” said Fragment 8 camera co- creator Manhin. “And the short Super 8 format makes perfect sense with today’s popularity of GIF loops and TikTok videos. Inspired by natural aesthetics, your story can be shared with friends at a new level with romantic and retro effects. You don’t have to fiddle around with

aperture, IOS, or white balance. All you need do is experience the gorgeous vintage feel in your own videos.”

“The Fragment 8 Retro Camera embodies the bright and soft appearance of the mid-century classic analog film. With natural tones, subtle color changes and slight discoloration, it makes a video of even the most mundane subject look artistic, nostalgic and well- composed,” said Fragment 8 co-creator Chun Yin.

FRAGMENT 8 TECHNICAL DETAILS

  • 1/3 inch CCD sensor
  • 720p HD resolution
  • Built-in viewfinder
  • 9 or 24 frames per second
  • MP4(H.264) or GIF output
  • F/2.5 with a 4-Element Lens
  • 17mm mount compatible
  • Electronic shutter
  • Focus-free
  • Li-ion battery pack
  • Aluminium, metallic printed ABS and Leather
  • 110 W x 90 H x 40 D mm (body)
  • 250g (body)

For complete information, sample videos, tech specs and to pledge, visit the Fragment 8 Kickstarter page at – https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fragment8/slice-of-life- fragment-8-retro-camera

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Venus Optics adds Canon M, Fuji X and Sony E mount options to its 4mm F2.8 circular fisheye lens

21 Jan

In addition to DPReview receiving confirmation that Venus Optics is working on a new ultra-fast F0.95 ‘Argus’ lens lineup, Venus Optics has also announced it’s adding new mount options for its 4mm F2.8 circular fisheye lens.

Now, in addition to Micro Four Thirds (MFT) cameras, the 4mm F2.8 circular fisheye lens will be available for Canon M-, Fuji X- and Sony E-mount camera systems. The updated models will feature the same optical design constructed of seven elements in six groups. The lens features a 210-degree angle of view, 8cm (3.14in) minimum focusing distance, seven-blade aperture diaphragm and weighs just 135g (4.7oz).

Below is a gallery of sample images, provided by Venus Optics:

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The new Canon M-, Fuji X- and Sony E-mount versions of the 4mm F2.8 circular fisheye lens are currently available on Venus Optics’ website for $ 200.

Venus Optics adds Fuji X, Sony E & Canon M options to the Laowa 4mm f/2.8 Circular Fisheye Lens

Anhui China, Aug 7, 2019 – Venus Optics, the camera lenses manufacturer specializes in making unique camera lenses, add new Fuji X, Sony E and Canon M variants to the Laowa 4mm f/2.8 Circular Fisheye Lens.

Laowa 4mm f/2.8 Fisheye lens is an 8mm equivalent fisheye prime specially designed for mirrorless cameras with APS-C and MFT sensors. On the contrary to the Laowa ‘Zero-D’ wide angle lenses, the new 4mm fisheye lens is designed to create an extremely distorted circular fisheye perspective.

210° angle of view The lens features an ultra-wide 210° angle of view. Photographers can take advantage of the dramatic field of view to capture more than what your eyes can see. A full 360-degree panorama can also be done using just 2 images as opposed to shooting 6 or more images with conventional fisheye lenses. This lens is also particularly good for VR photography, shooting virtual tour, skateboard shooting and spherical panorama.

Fast f/2.8 aperture The ultra-fast f/2.8 aperture makes it an ideal option for astro-photography and shooting in lowlight condition.

Focus as close as 3.14” (8cm) from sensor Photographers can take advantage of the super close focusing distance to capture some heavily distorted & impactful shots.

Drones friendly The MFT version of the lens can be mounted on DJI Inspire X5 drones to create some epic ‘God’s vision’ shots.

Outstanding sharpness Houses with 7 elements in 6 groups, the new 4mm has an outstanding sharpness throughout the frame. Along with the 210o ultra-wide angle, photographers can either ‘de-fish’ the image in post-processing or crop to transform the image into a rectilinear image.

Super Tiny & Lightweight The lens is extremely tiny and lightweight. Measuring only 1.77” (45mm) long and weighing 4.7 oz (135g), the lens is so small that can be put into pocket for shooting anywhere, anytime.

Huge Depth of Field The depth of field of this lens is so deep that no focusing operation is required. Simply park the focus ring at infinity focus and stop down the lens to around f/5.6, everything will be in focus.

Pricing & Availability The lens is currently available to order from authorized resellers and in Venus Optics official website (http://www.venuslens.net/). It is ready to ship now. The ex-VAT retail price in US is USD 199/pc. Pricing may vary in different countries.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Tips to Get Out of a Photographic Rut so You Can Get Back to Doing What You Love!

20 Jan

The post 5 Tips to Get Out of a Photographic Rut so You Can Get Back to Doing What You Love! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

tips-to-get-out-of-a-photographic-rut

Creative ruts happens to the best of us. Fortunately, there are many ways to combat the dreaded photographer’s block. Here are 5 tips to get out of a photographic rut and back into doing what you love!

Tips to get out of a photographic rut

Canon 5D MK II 50mm lens with Kenko extension tubes, f/1.8 at 1/80th of a second ISO 800

Research

Books research photography

Canon 5D MK II Canon 50mm lens with Kenko extension tubes, f/8 at 1/40th of a second ISO 200

Getting stuck into some artistic research is one of my first tips for getting out of a photographic rut. Whether it’s online or in-print, checking out what other photographers have done can stimulate fresh photographic approaches.

Having a look at contemporary photography can inform your practice with new perspectives. In addition, brushing up on your photo history can give you the motivation to expand on tried-and-true photographic methods.

Don’t limit yourself to researching one area of photography either. Branch out into different genres you are curious about. And don’t forget to explore other types of artistic practice. A lot can be gleaned from disciplines like painting and sculpture – practices that rely just as heavily on light and composition as photography does.

Create a visual diary

visual diary for photography

Canon 5D MK II Canon 50mm lens f/5.6 at 1/40th of a second ISO 100

Often, writers find that putting ideas on paper helps stimulate creative thought. It’s the same for photographers too.

A great way to organize your favorite research discoveries is to create a visual diary. Visual diaries (or art diaries) have been kept by artists for centuries as a way to consolidate ideas and cultivate inspiration.

Grab a blank visual diary (a portable size works best) and start to add prints, drawings, paintings, notes, journal entries, rubbings, whatever! The idea is that your visual diary is your own physical expression of the creative process. When organized into a visual diary, your photographic trajectory becomes clearer. It can be as neat or messy as you like, don’t overthink it and have fun!

Pick a theme

Tips to get out of a photographic rut blue abstract

Canon 5D MK II Canon 50mm lens with Kenko extension tubes, f/2.2 at 1/320th of a second ISO 100

Another tip to get out of a photographic rut is to choose a single theme to photograph. Pick any theme; abstraction, the seasons, portraits…anything that you find interesting or challenging.

Selecting a specific theme focuses your creativity. Having a theme also simplifies your photographic process, defining a clear goal for you to work on. Furthermore, when you work within a theme, you start to uncover interesting perspectives about a subject you may never have considered before. This feeds your creative momentum, helping to lever you out of photographer’s block.

Try something new

Trying something new camera tossing

Canon 5D MK II Canon 50mm, f/2.5 at 1 second ISO 100

Photography is made up of an endless amount of techniques and approaches. This provides photographers with many great tools to get out of a photographic rut. Trying something new can be exciting, and it can re-frame your whole photographic practice, kick-starting your creative flow and getting you back in the game.

Investing in new equipment is one way to change-up your photography, but simpler (cheaper) ideas work well too. For example, trying out portraiture or getting into black and white photography can help just as much. You could try photographing a new location or embark on a 365 project. You could also try camera tossing or set your sights on street photography – the choice is yours.

Keep a camera with you

Tips to get out of a photographic rut camera diana

Canon 5D MK II Canon 50mm lens with Kenko extension tubes, f/1.8 at 1/80th of a second ISO 200

Creativity can be fickle, and inspiration can strike at unexpected times. If you are in a photographic rut, capitalizing on these bolts of inspiration is important. The last tip to get out of a photographic rut is to keep a camera with you, ready for action.

Today, many people have a camera constantly within reach on their phones. Concepts like composition and settings on a camera phone are similar to a dedicated camera. This means that taking photos with a camera phone can, in itself, flex your photographic muscles. In addition, you can also record interesting subjects on your phone to return to later with a dedicated camera.

For me, I try to keep a small, plastic camera with me in my pocket or bag. There’s something about having a camera that inspires me to keep a lookout for new photographic opportunities. The whimsical nature of a plastic camera adds an element of surprise to photography too.

Conclusion

Photographic ruts are a stubborn burden suffered by many photographers. Luckily, taking active steps can alleviate the symptoms of a creative dry-spell.

While these tips are drawn from my own experiences, it is by no means an exhaustive list.

Have you been stuck with photographers block? Let me know your tips to get out of a photographic rut in the comments.

The post 5 Tips to Get Out of a Photographic Rut so You Can Get Back to Doing What You Love! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

20 Jan

The post Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

kf-concept-carbon-tripods

Recently, I was given 2 new K&F Concept Carbon tripods to test out.

Founded in 2011, K&F Concept is not a new player in the photographic industry, but they have wasted no time forging a name for themselves into a very niche market. Like most things coming out of China, their products are well designed, innovative and offer great value, so I was excited to get my hands on these tripods.

 

The TC2834L Explorer Series carbon tripod

First up is the K&F Concept TC2834L Explorer Series carbon tripod with a CL40 ball head.

At a glance:

  • Material: Carbon Fiber
  • Net Weight: 1440g
  • Max Height: 1500mm
  • Height without Central Axis: 1235mm
  • Min Height: 430mm
  • Max load: 15kg
  • Price: $ 299.99 (at the time of writing)

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

First thoughts

The tripod comes in a really nice carry bag with all the necessary Allen keys to maintain it. There are also a set of three screw spikes in the accessory bag that I wasn’t expecting.

My first thoughts were correct, and these were to replace the rubber grips on each leg for those times when you need a little more traction. Simply screw off the rubber pads and screw in the spikes. It’s super easy and a very nice addition that you won’t get with many other tripods.

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Locking system

K&F Concept has used twist-leg locks to reduce weight and folded size rather than the more traditional lever lock. Aside from the weight and size, the other advantage of the twist legs is their slick design. I have always found that levers tend to snag on the straps of my camera bag when trying to remove the tripod. Whilst, not a huge inconvenience, it generally results in me having a little wrestle with my camera bag.

With the twist-lock, you eliminate this issue.

The primary leg join is a very unique and innovative design that allows the photographer to get the camera as close to the ground as possible. You simply pull the red leaver out and tilt the legs up to one of the other two notches before pushing it back in to securely lock the legs in place.

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Tripod size

The tripod is made up of four carbon fiber sections to keep the weight to a minimum and keep it to a compact height.

One of the most notable aspects of the TC2834L is the lack of center column attached to the tripod. Instead, this comes as a separate section that needs to be screwed onto the tripod when needed. Whilst this achieves its goal of a more compact size tripod, it does mean an extra piece to carry as the column doesn’t attach to the tripod (something that would have been nice to be able to do).

However, I haven’t found this to be a huge problem as the standard height of the tripod is 1235mm, which is more than an adequate hight. Plus, generally having a center column raised on a tripod, is not a great idea as it can mean camera shake through any sort of movement.

I never use this, so actually not having the center column means less weight to carry.

After feeling how light the tripod is, I was a little concerned that it may struggle to support a camera and a 70-200mm lens in anything less than perfect conditions.

Thankfully, I was proved wrong. It proved to be very steady and held up as well as any other travel tripod I have used even in blustery conditions.

The tripod is made up of four carbon fiber sections to keep the weight to a minimum and keep it to a compact height.

One of the most notable aspects of the TC2834L is the lack of center column attached to the tripod. Instead, this comes as a separate section that needs to be screwed onto the tripod when needed. Whilst this achieves its goal of a more compact size tripod, it does mean an extra piece to carry as the column doesn’t attach to the tripod (something that would have been nice to be able to do).

However, I haven’t found this to be a huge problem as the standard height of the tripod is 1235mm, which is more than an adequate hight. Plus, generally having a center column raised on a tripod, is not a great idea as it can mean camera shake through any sort of movement.

I never use this, so actually not having the center column means less weight to carry.

After feeling how light the tripod is, I was a little concerned that it may struggle to support a camera and a 70-200mm lens in anything less than perfect conditions.

Thankfully, I was proved wrong. It proved to be very steady and held up as well as any other travel tripod I have used even in blustery conditions.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Ball head

Sold separately to the tripod, the KF-LC40 ball head may just be the best ball head I have ever used! Beautifully designed for ease of use, the ball head has a slick feel.

It uses the Arca Swiss locking system, which is great as this has now become the universally preferred locking method. This means all your old accessories and L-brackets will work seamlessly with this ball head.

The cleverly designed locking lever is placed a little behind the nodal point, making it much easier to adjust when a camera is attached. It does make the ball head a little bigger, but it’s not an issue, and it allows extra space for more substantial support in the ball head.

However, it’s important to remember that the ball head is sold separately.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Verdict

This is a fantastic sturdy, lightweight, pro-level compact tripod that is a joy to use and even easier to carry.

With a price of just $ 299.99 (remember, ball head sold separately) and 30 days, no-questions-asked return policy, there isn’t much to not love about this tripod.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Lightweight Travel Tripod

Next up is the TC2634 (Blue) carbon fiber lightweight travel tripod;

At a glance:

  • Material: Carbon Fiber
  • Net Weight: 3.7 pounds
  • Max Height: 1500mm
  • Min Height: 430mm
  • Max load: 15kg
  • Price: $ 182.28

First thoughts

Like its bigger brother, this tripod also comes in a nice bag with all the same accessories. However, no spikes this time.

It’s amazingly lightweight and compact but still incredibly sturdy. This all makes this tripod perfect for a travel photographer.

You could easily carry this tripod around with you all day without any problem. This is a huge benefit for someone like me who leaves the hotel very early in the morning and ends up having to carry their tripod all day.

This tripod also has a great little trick up its sleeve. One of the legs detaches to become a stand-alone monopod. Just unscrew the ball head and attach the newly removed leg, and you are ready to shoot.

Monopods are great for busy cities and festivals, so it’s nice to have one as easily accessible as this is.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Locking system

Like the TC2834L, the TC2634 uses a twist leg lock, which is great for all the reasons mentioned above. But what this tripod does differently is its 180-degree locking system that makes the tripod even smaller when packed away. It is a little fiddly to get the ball head in the correct spot to make sure all the legs lock closed to be as compact as possible, but you get used to the method after a few uses. This makes the folded up tripod just 430 mm in height!

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Tripod size

Given the compact size of this tripod, you could be mistaken for thinking it is going to be pretty small and not sturdy. This is certainly not the case. Whilst it is not as sturdy as the larger TC2834L, it held up fantastically well in all conditions except a fairly fast flowing river where there was some noticeable shake.

However, I expected that, as this tripod is not designed for that purpose. You can’t have super compact and lightweight without some sacrifices. To help avoid any shake issues, the center column has a hook that can be weighted down to add extra stability.

With the 180-degree leg locking system, it means you can get your camera as low to the floor as you wish. The camera will be upside down, but that’s nothing a rotate tool won’t fix in post-production.

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Ball head

This is a very sturdy and well-designed Arca Swiss 360-degree ball head. It’s a little smaller than I would normally like, but this doesn’t affect performance in any way. Unlike the previous tripod, the ball head is included with this tripod, making this an even more attractive option.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Verdict

This tripod is quite a lot smaller than what I normally work with, so I was a little skeptical beforehand. But it turned out to be great, and I really enjoy using it. So much so that I will be adding it to my own photography kit.

It’s a great option for a city break and offers more than enough support for the DSLR or mirrorless systems.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Overall

I have had my existing tripod for almost 15 years, and I never thought that I would replace it with anything other than just a newer model when it was time.

But having tested these tripods, I must confess that I am now using them instead of my existing tripod.

Note: The author was given these tripods and ball heads free of charge to test and was offered no incentives. This review is an unbiased opinion of his experience in using the products provided.

The post Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.


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The Canadian Internet Registration Authority has created a free and funny stock photo library

20 Jan
A lumberjack checking out a hockey player is a Canadian take on the ‘distracted boyfriend’ meme. Photo courtesy of CIRA/.CA.

The Canadian Internet Registration Authority (CIRA), the organization in charge of Canada’s ‘.ca’ top-level domain, has published a series of stock photos that poke fun at Canadien stereotypes. In a bid to get more people to add something ‘uniquely Canadian’ to their projects, they’re offering up their library of stock images for free.

Photo courtesy of CIRA/.CA

Anyone can use small, medium, large or extra-large sized images from the library, though they ask for an email address to access the extra-large 4K files. All CIRA asks, in return, is that a credit along the lines of ‘photo by CIRA/.CA,’ along with a link back to their website, is included.

Photo courtesy of CIRA/.CA. Also, no, this is not long-lost relative of Jordan—so far as we’re aware.

CIRA has their own version of the popular ‘distracted boyfriend’ meme, featuring a hockey player, and other distinct nods to Canadian culture including a moose interacting with backpackers and a lumberjack taking a swig of maple syrup. Anyone with the desire to add to this collection of images is encouraged to contact CIRA.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Nikon D750 vs D780: Should you upgrade?

19 Jan

The Nikon D750 vs D780: Should you upgrade?

The Nikon D750 was one of the best enthusiast-and-up DSLRs on the market at the time it was announced and is still a popular workhorse for many photographers today. Its 24MP sensor is still very competitive but its video specs in particular are looking very outdated.

If I were a D750 shooter today, ‘should I upgrade?’ would be a question on my mind. Our own Dan Bracaglia had some thoughts of his own on this, but let’s take a slightly deeper dive into just what Nikon’s updated, and whether those updates are worth it.

Autofocus

Probably the first thing most D750 owners will start to notice if they move across to the D780 is the improved autofocus. The D750 is certainly a capable camera in this regard but the D780 gains a couple of updates that should boost its performance.

In conventional DSLR mode, the D780 uses the same 51-point AF module as its predecessor but the AF system is informed by information from a 180,000 pixel metering sensor, rather than the 91,000 pixel sensor in the D750. This, combined with algorithms derived from those of the D5 professional sports camera, should significantly improve the D780’s AF performance, particularly in terms of subject tracking.

Even more significant will be the autofocus improvements in live view mode, which we’ll come to in a bit.

Newer sensor and JPEG engine

Although both cameras have sensors that come with 24MP, the unit in the D780 is a newer design, either identical or closely related to the one in Nikon’s existing Z6 mirrorless camera. This means it has a BSI (backside-illuminated) design and, more significantly, dual-gain architecture. In essence, this allows the camera to have maximum dynamic range at base ISO with improved noise characteristics at higher ISO values where absolute DR isn’t as crucial a consideration.

We would expect the D780 to produce better JPEGs compared to the D750

We’d expect the D780 to offer a slight upgrade over the D750 for Raw shooters, but one that’s only really visible in comparison and that won’t come close to justifying upgrading.

On the other hand, Nikon’s JPEG engine has improved by leaps and bounds over the past five years. We’ll have to do some more testing to be sure, but we’d expect the D780 to produce JPEGs with better sharpening, more pleasing color and more sophisticated noise reduction compared to those from the D750. And that also makes those JPEGs that much better for sharing over the updated Snapbridge wireless system that the D780 supports.

But that 24MP sensor isn’t all about BSI and dual-gain architecture. It also comes with…

On-sensor phase detection

The D780 has on-sensor phase detection, which provides the kind of distance information needed to quickly drive DSLR lenses. It also gains the AF tracking system from the Z-series cameras, including Face and Eye detection modes. The Face and Eye detection will be a distinct improvement for portraits and people pictures, compared with the D750.

The D780’s live view interface is directly borrowed from the Z-series cameras. This means it works slightly differently that the through-the-viewfinder system: AF tracking needs to be actively cancelled, and always resets to the central position, rather than a pre-selected one, and the Face / Eye detection modes feels like it’s been glued on top of the interface rather than designed to be part of it.

But if you’ve only shot with a DSLR before, you’re likely to be immediately impressed by how well the live view AF performs. Particularly for taking pictures of people, it can be fast, simple and dependable, in a way that even Nikon’s 3D Tracking system isn’t.

Video

Along with live view autofocus, one of the clearest enhancements on the D780 is its video performance. This is immediately apparent from the fact it can shoot up to 4K/30p or 1080/120p, rather than the 1080/60p of the D750, but it runs a lot deeper than that.

For a start, the vastly improved AF and tracking of its live view mode extend to its video shooting, meaning the autofocus is faster, smoother and more reliable (the difference between being usable and unusable, basically). In addition, the D780 gains Nikon’s latest approach to video settings, which lets you configure different settings, including different button customization, if you wish. You can have the video mode mimic your stills settings if you like, but you can also set it to use a different color mode, or white balance setting if you prefer, meaning it’s easy to jump back and forth between stills and video shooting.

Overall, the D780 is a very capable video camera. It’ll even output 10-bit Log footage to an external recorder, if you’re taking things really seriously. Panasonic’s S1 and S1H are some of the only full-frame cameras to offer significantly better video specs. That’s a huge step forward from the D750.

What’s similar?

Many of the rest of the D780’s specs are broadly similar: it’ll shoot at 7fps rather than the D750’s 6.5fps, but that’s unlikely to make much of a difference. Switch to live view and electronic shutter mode and the D780 will deliver 8fps or 12fps if you’re willing to take the slight dynamic range penalty of dropping to 12-bit mode. However, electronic shutter risks movement being distorted by the rolling shutter and increases the range of situations in which you’ll see banding from the flicker of artificial lights, so it’s not useful for all applications.

The optical viewfinders are the same, too: pentamirror finders with 100% coverage and 0.7x magnification.

Also, the D780 still has an in-body (screw drive) focus motor and AI tab, to allow its use with a broad range of older F-mount lenses. The D750 had both features, but notably the FTZ mount adapter for the Z-mount cameras doesn’t.

What’s different

The D780’s rear screen still tilts up and down on a rugged-feeling cradle like the D750’s did, but the dot-count has doubled and it’s now touch-sensitive, making the camera much more usable in live view mode.

The other big difference is that the D780 uses Nikon’s Snapbridge communications system, rather than the more conventional Wi-Fi system on the D750. Snapbridge maintains a constant Bluetooth connection between a smart device and the camera, which makes it quicker to establish a Wi-Fi connection.

We weren’t impressed with the early implementations of Snapbridge but it’s gained a lot in the way of features and stability since then. There’s an option to auto-send 2MP versions of every image you shoot, you can set the camera to transfer images you’ve marked in playback mode (these transfers will happen even when the camera is off), or you can browse the images on the camera from your phone. It now supports Raw and video transfer over Wi-Fi, along with geotagging of images based on phone location and extensive remote control of the camera.

The D780 has a new shutter mechanism, capable of 1/8000 sec exposures. The downside is that its shutter shock at moderate exposures is more pronounced than on the D750. You can work around this by selecting ‘Electronic front-curtain shutter’ in the menus and always shooting in Quiet mode (apply the minimum 0.2 sec exposure delay when resolution is really critical), but it’s worth being aware of.

What’s missing?

Not all of the D780’s specs are an improvement on the older model, though. The D780 repeats some of Nikon’s recent product planning decisions that omit some features that were included in the D750.

The most immediately apparent difference is the lack of internal flash. Nikon says the camera can be better weather-sealed if you don’t include a pop-up flash, but anyone looking to use the D780 with off-camera flashes will have to consider the significance of that trade-off for their shooing. You can mount a variety of flash commanders to the hot shoe or push a WR-R10 radio transceiver into the Remote socket on the left of the camera, if you have the latest radio-controlled Nikon Speedlights.

The other obvious omission on the D780 are the connectors to allow duplicate controls on an accessory grip. There’s nothing on the base of the camera and nothing in the battery compartment meaning that, if Nikon does decide to offer a battery grip, it’ll be like the one for the Z6 and Z7, that just adds room for a second battery.

We suspect a lot of users will find the D780’s rating of 2260 shots per charge more than sufficient (especially considering it’s common to get more than twice the rated number, depending on your usage). However, there will be some users that liked the extra reassurance or improved portrait-orientation ergonomics that an accessory grip offers.

Batteries and memory cards

The D780 uses the latest EN-EL15b battery. It looks like a slightly more angular version of the existing EN-EL15 batteries, the distinction being that the ‘b’ variant can be charged over the camera’s USB socket. The D780 can still use the older 15a and 15 batteries but without USB charging, and with significantly reduced battery life if used with the original EN-EL15 batteries not marked Li-Ion20.

Interestingly, like the D750, the D780 continues to use twin SD card slots, now compatible with the newer UHS-II cards. This may seem odd, given the closely-related Z6 uses the more exotic XQD card format. But there’s not much that the D780 does that would demand higher throughput that the 90MB/s rates maintained by the latest v90 SD cards.

Equally, if we see the D780 as an F-mount alternative to the Z6, then it makes sense that it should maximize its backwards compatibility in terms of cards as well as lenses and (to an extent) batteries.

Should I buy a D780?

Considered in isolation, the D780 is a tremendously well-rounded, capable camera, much as the D750 was, but with that capability now extending to video as well as stills shooting. However, it’s also worth considering the question ‘why would you buy this instead of a Z6?’

The Z6 was launched for $ 300 less than the D780 and that was over a year ago, so the current price difference is even greater. The Z6 uses Nikon’s latest lenses, and clearly represents the direction the company and its development efforts are going in, so what would prompt people to still buy a DSLR?

The most compelling reasons would be either because you have a significant investment in F-mount lenses, your style of shooting demands an optical viewfinder, or simply that you prefer using an optical viewfinder. In which case, the D780 looks like a great do-everything option, and one that has been appreciably improved, compared with the D750.

We suspect this is a trend we’ll see from Canon and Nikon for at least a generation or two of camera releases: a variant of their latest mirrorless cameras, built into (perhaps modestly updated) versions of their DSLR bodies, since both companies have die-hard DSLR users. The breadth of the model range might contract, over time, making it less likely that there’ll be a model at the price you want to pay, but there are enough Nikon lenses out there that there’ll be an audience for Nikon DSLRs for a while yet.

Should I upgrade from my D750?

Whether it’s worth upgrading from a D750 is a more difficult question. If you primarily shoot stills, it might not be. There are certainly improvements in terms of image quality particularly on the JPEG side of things, but these alone are unlikely to justify the cost of upgrading. If you only shoot stills through the viewfinder, and haven’t found yourself hankering for improved AF tracking, then it probably makes sense to stick with the D750.

If you only shoot stills through the viewfinder then it probably makes sense to stick with the D750

However, if you would like a camera with the simplicity and accuracy that eye-detect AF brings, it’s well worth a look. It’s also certainly an easier camera to shoot at high and low angles, thanks to its much more usable live view. Most of all, if you have even the slightest interest in video, the D780 is a significantly better camera. If nothing else, it’s a great way to get that familiar DSLR feel with the option of experiencing what Nikon’s Z-series cameras are like to use.

But then, if it’s the video and mirrorless features of the D780 that make you want to upgrade, maybe you’d be better off with a Z6.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road

19 Jan

The post Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

portable-portrait-studio

It is wonderful having a permanent studio to work in. But imagine being able to pack that studio into your camera bag and take it with you anywhere you want. You can do this by creating a portable portrait studio.

The problem is, portable studios tend to take up a lot of space.

I traveled from school to school with a portable studio. But it would take up my entire car, leaving no room for a passenger!

Half the fun of being a photographer is embracing constraints. So I decided to see how minimal I could get with a portable studio. Could I create a studio that fits into one small camera bag?

This is an important project because when you are confident that you can make nice portraits with minimal gear, you can take your studio down any road and into any situation. Your limits fade away, and the whole world becomes your studio.

portable portrait studio

This is my portable portrait studio. One camera, one lens, two speedlights, a rainbow of colored gels, one light stand, one umbrella, one reflector, and one piece of white fabric.

A studio is a place to study. By making your studio small and portable, you can study anywhere you desire.

Three things to consider as you travel with your portable studio

1. The person

The person you’re photographing is more important than your gear, your schedule, or anything else. Put all your focus on the person you’re photographing in order to achieve a good portrait. I tested out my new studio with a person, but if you don’t have a model you can practice with toy figures.

2. The light

When you need to make a portrait, look for a good light source.

A larger light source creates softer shadows and a smaller light source creates crisp shadows. Often, softer shadows are pleasing for a portrait.

The first thing I look for is a large window for my light source. If I can find a large window, then I don’t even need to use the lights in my bag. In that case, my portable portrait studio whittles down to a camera and a reflector.

But if I need to create my own light source, then I use a speed light and umbrella or softbox. By itself, the speedlight is a small light source. But the umbrella converts it into a larger light source and softens the shadows.

3. A clean background

You don’t want distractions in the background of your photo. Either keep the background clean and simple or make it part of the story. There isn’t much in your portable portrait studio, so you’ll have to work with the backgrounds you find on location.

The goal for all of these photos is a simple portrait with nice light and a clean background.

Portraits with a large window

Let’s begin with a simple scenario using a large window as the light source.

When you place your subject near the window, and you expose properly for their skin tone, much of the background will fall into darkness.

portable portrait studio

This is not a pleasing environment for a portrait. However, don’t be concerned with what the whole room looks like, only how your final portrait will look. Notice where the girl is positioned in relation to the window.

 

portable portrait studio

The large window has created soft shadows on her face. The catchlights bring her eyes to life. There are some distractions in the background that could have been taken care of with a slightly different composition. 50mm, ISO 1600, f/4.0, 1/400 sec.

Portraits with a small window

Smaller windows can produce harsh shadows. The secret is to keep your subject as close to the window as possible. The closer they are to the window, the larger the light source becomes in relation to your subject.

Image: She is placed extremely close to the window.

She is placed extremely close to the window.

 

portable portrait studio

The light on her face is quite nice but the background is distracting. 50mm, ISO 1600, f/4.0, 1/400 sec.

 

Image: I moved her to the other side of the window.

I moved her to the other side of the window.

portable portrait studio

I used the wall as the background for the portrait. 50mm, ISO 1600, f/4.0, 1/320 sec.

A portrait using a neutral-colored wall

I found a really good bit of neutral-colored wall but it was not near a window. This is when you need to set up your speedlight and umbrella.

Neutral color background

This patch of grey wall will be perfect as a background.

 

portable portrait studio

The umbrella illuminated both her face and the wall but didn’t cast any harsh shadows. 50mm, ISO 100, f/8.0, 1/200 sec.

 

Creating a white background

You can create a white background by using a white wall or a white piece of fabric in your portable portrait studio. Make sure to illuminate the white background with the second speedlight in your bag.

how to make a white background for portraits

The white piece of fabric will be taped to the wall to use as a background. The second speedlight will light up the fabric so that it turns pure white instead of grey.

Creating a white background

 

portable portrait studio
Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road

Turn any background into black

You can turn any background black with two simple steps.

  1. Move your subject as far away from the background as you can
  2. Light your subject with your speedlight but don’t let the light fall onto the background (this is why we’re keeping the background so far away).
how to make your background black

The background is about 20 feet away

 

portable portrait studio

You may need to darken the background a tiny bit more in post-processing. 50mm, ISO 100, f/9.0, 1/200 sec.

 

Make a colored background with gels

You can turn that neutral wall a different color using gels on your speedlight.

how to use gels with your speedlight

Place the colored gel over the speedlight to transform the color of the wall.

 

portable portrait studio
Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road

Go crazy with the light!

There comes a moment in every session when you just have to try something completely different.

Being a fan of backlight, I put both speedlights with colored gels in the background and pointed them right toward the camera.

portable portrait studio

Don’t settle for the same old photos every session. Always try at least one new thing. This was her favorite photo.

 

How to make your studio infinitely larger

It’s good to have a permanent studio as a home base, but even a full-scale studio can become a limiting place. Figure out the minimal amount of gear that you need to make a portrait, pack it into one bag and then go and explore your world with your portable portrait studio.

Here are more tips for portrait lighting as you travel:

  • 5 creative portrait lighting tricks using only phone light
  • How to create awesome portrait lighting with a paper bag an elastic band and a chocolate donut
  • 6 portrait lighting patterns every photographer should know/
  • One speedlight portrait lighting tutorial
  • 5 places perfect natural portrait lighting
  • How to use an outdoor studio for natural portraits
  • Portrait lighting project rainy day

The post Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


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