RSS
 

Archive for January, 2020

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

04 Jan

The post 5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

If you want to capture amazing bird photos, you absolutely need to master your camera settings.

Because camera settings determine whether your bird photos look blurry or sharp, well-exposed or lacking details.

In other words, your camera settings can be the difference between a great photo and a mediocre photo.

Which is why this article is dedicated to giving you the five camera settings that every bird photographer should know.

That way, you’ll never struggle to choose the correct camera settings again.

Let’s get started.

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

1. Use Aperture Priority or Manual mode to set your exposure

First things first:

If you want to create beautiful bird photos, you have to make sure they’re well-exposed. This means that you need the right aperture and right shutter speed to create a bright, detailed photo.

How do you ensure that you capture a well-exposed bird photo?

You use Aperture Priority or Manual mode.

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Both of these modes are available via the Mode Dial on most cameras. Aperture Priority is the easier mode to use: It allows you to choose an aperture, while your camera selects a shutter speed based on its evaluation of the ambient light.

Manual mode forces you to choose both an aperture and a shutter speed. However, the camera viewfinder displays a bar that shows whether your choices will result in underexposure, overexposure, or an exposure that’s just right. If you use Manual mode, then you must carefully observe this bar to determine the best aperture and shutter speed for each photo.

If you’re a beginner, or if you’re shooting fast-paced scenes, Aperture Priority is generally the best choice. You can dial in a wide aperture (usually between f/5.6 and f/7.1), then allow your camera to choose a shutter speed. If the shutter speed is too low (more on that later!), then you can raise the ISO to compensate.

Manual mode is a bit trickier to use and takes some getting used to. Once you feel confident in your exposure skills, Manual mode might be the way to go. Manual mode is also a good choice if the background is changing rapidly, but the light on the bird remains the same (such as when you’re photographing a bird in flight). In such a situation, Manual mode will prevent the camera meter from changing your shutter speed in response to the changing background.

Here’s the bottom line:

To get a perfect exposure, you need to take control of your camera settings. And that starts by choosing a camera mode.

Both Aperture Priority and Manual will work. Start with Aperture Priority and, if you like, you can always work up to using Manual.

2. Use back-button focus to capture tack-sharp photos

Back-button focus is one of my favorite camera features because it’s just so amazingly useful.

Here’s why:

Back-button autofocus allows you to control your camera’s focus via a button on the camera’s back (sometimes labeled AF-ON). Rather than pressing the shutter button halfway to focus, then the rest of the way to capture a shot, back-button focus allows you to separate these two functions.

The shutter button is used for taking pictures.

And the AF-ON button is used for focusing.

This is invaluable if you want to focus and recompose, then track a moving subject, then focus and recompose again.

(You’ll want to make sure you’ve set your autofocus mode to AI-Servo, also known as AF-C.)

You see, if you press and hold the AF-ON button, it activates the continuous autofocus, which will track a moving subject.

But once you let go of the AF-ON button, the autofocus locks in place. Now the autofocus acts like one-shot AF, which locks focus and stays focused.

So if you come upon a bird that’s moving, you can track it via back-button focus. But as soon as the bird stops moving, you can let go of the AF-ON button, and test out different compositions, knowing that the focus won’t change.

The ibis in the photo below was moving along the water’s edge, but then stopped so I could grab this photo. I focused on the eye, but then reframed (a perfect situation for back-button focus!).

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Cool, right?

Plus, if you accidentally let go of the shutter button, you don’t have to deal with refocusing. Back-button focus stays locked in place.

That’s the power of back-button focus!

To set up back-button autofocus does take a bit of fiddling with camera settings, which is beyond the scope of this article. So take a look in your camera’s manual (or do a bit of Googling!). It’s worth it, I promise.

3. Use continuous shooting to nail the action shots

Bird photography often gives you the opportunity to capture amazing action shots. Photos of birds flying through the air, birds diving into the water, birds capturing fish.

But here’s the thing:

It’s easy to miss the action if you’re not prepared.

After all, birds move fast.

That’s why continuous shooting comes in handy.

Pretty much all cameras have a continuous shooting mode, these days. Continuous shooting allows you to fire off a burst of photos, generally between 5 frames per second and 15 frames per second.

So whenever you go out to do bird photography, switch your shooting mode to continuous shooting.

And then, when the action heats up, start shooting burst rather than single shots.

That’s what I did for this little blue heron shot. When the bird began to hunt, I started shooting in bursts, so I could be sure to get sharp shots with the beak near the water!

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

Will you get a lot of throwaway images? Sure.

But you’ll also have a much better chance of getting the perfect image. So it’s undoubtedly worth it!

You do want to be careful, however, because your camera’s buffer can fill up quickly. When that happens, you won’t be able to shoot bursts until the camera has processed some of the images.

Just be mindful of your camera’s buffer.

And you’ll get some shots of a lifetime.

4. Choose a shutter speed of at least 1/500s (and probably faster)

If you want to capture sharp bird photos, then you have to use a fast shutter speed.

Because the shutter speed is what determines whether you freeze the scene, or whether it turns into one unpleasant blur.

Now, there is no one ideal shutter speed. If the bird in your scene is stationary, you’ll need a much slower shutter speed than if the bird in your scene is flapping its wings wildly.

But I can give you some recommendations that should ensure you get sharp bird photos, consistently.

First, if you’re shooting a motionless bird (for instance, a bird that’s sleeping or standing still), I recommend using a shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second. This is to compensate for the length of your lens because longer lenses result in more potential for camera shake.

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Second, if you’re shooting a bird that’s moving at a slow to medium speed, around 1/1000th of a second is a good choice. This will freeze the movement, but won’t force you to crank up the ISO to compensate for underexposure.

Third, if you’re shooting a fast-moving bird, you should choose a shutter speed of at least 1/2000th. If the bird is flying at high speeds, then 1/2500th, 1/3200th, or even 1/4000th is a good choice. Birds move fast, and you don’t want to end up with a blurry shot because your shutter speed was a hair too slow.

5. Use the lowest ISO you can afford for noise-free photos

In bird photography, shutter speed and ISO tend to balance one another out.

If you choose a slower shutter speed, you don’t need a high ISO; if you choose a high ISO, you don’t need a slow shutter speed.

Now, ISO comes with a big downside: The higher the ISO, the more noise you’ll get in your photos. And noise is pretty much always bad.

On the other hand, a high ISO increases the brightness of your photos, which allows you to use a lightning-fast shutter speed without worry.

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

So what do you do? How do you choose your ISO?

I recommend you start by determining an acceptable shutter speed. Use the guidelines in the previous tip if you’re struggling.

Then push your ISO up until you’ve reached your determined shutter speed – but don’t go any higher than you have to.

Because here’s the thing:

It’s better to get a noisy image than a blurry image. But the holy grail of photography is achieving sharp photos without noise.

So keep your ISO to a minimum.

And you’ll get the best possible shot.

5 camera settings every bird photographer should know: Conclusion

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Choosing the best settings for bird photography may seem difficult, but it doesn’t have to be.

Just remember the five camera settings that I’ve shared.

And you’ll be capturing amazing photos in no time!

If you have any other tips on bird photography camera settings, please share with us in the comments below, along with any photos you’d like to share.

The post 5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

Posted in Photography

 

OnePlus teases prototype smartphone with disappearing rear camera

03 Jan

OnePlus is expected to display its Concept One prototype smartphone at the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas next week. At this point there are no plans to put the Concept One into production, instead, the device is meant to showcase OnePlus innovation in mobile device tech.

Ahead of the show the company has already posted a teaser video on Twitter, showing an ‘invisible’ rear camera that can be hidden under the glass rear panel. According to OnePlus ‘color-shifting glass technology’ is used to achieve the effect.

The team at Wired already had the chance to have a closer look at the technology and reports OnePlus is using the same technology found in sunroofs to control the transparency of the glass panel. When inactive the camera is hidden under tinted glass. When the camera is in use, the tint can be adjusted via an electrical signal and the camera and lenses become visible behind the panel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on OnePlus teases prototype smartphone with disappearing rear camera

Posted in Uncategorized

 

TTArtisan launches 11mm F2.8 fisheye lens for Sony E-mount systems

03 Jan

Chinese lens company TTArtisan has announced the availability of its new 11mm F2.8 fisheye lens for Sony E-mount camera systems.

The lens’ optical formula consists of 11 elements in 7 groups. It’s constructed of aluminum and brass and features an aperture range of F2.8-F16 with clicked aperture points.

It has a minimum focusing distance of 17cm, a ten-blade aperture diaphragm and weighs in at 485g. It is currently available to order for $ 215.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on TTArtisan launches 11mm F2.8 fisheye lens for Sony E-mount systems

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Why DaVinci Resolve 16 is the best video editing software for beginners

03 Jan

Blackmagic Design DaVinci Resolve 16
Free | blackmagicdesign.com

Resolve 16, a tool for all creators?

The explosion of user generated video content for websites like YouTube has led to the launch of several competing non-linear-editors (NLEs) aimed at consumers, which vary in terms of price, feature set and upgradability. So, how do you choose which one to use?

One great option is DaVinci Resolve 16 from Blackmagic Design. The software is available for free from Blackmagic, but it’s not the only low-cost entry in the NLE arena, so what makes it different, and why is it so attractive to users getting into video editing for the first time?

First, a little bit of history. Originally created by da Vinci Systems in 1985, the software was designed mainly for color grading and color correction and ran on hardware costing more that $ 150,000. It has evolved both in terms of features and pricing model since Blackmagic Design acquired it in 2009. The most recent version, Resolve 16, introduces a more streamlined and less complicated workflow for many users, particularly those new to using NLEs, to edit video.

First time users

Opening up the software for the first time can be rather intimidating for those who haven’t used an NLE before. The sheer number of windows and buttons can be rather daunting. The only NLE I can think of which doesn’t introduce this sort of shock is iMovie, however that program has limitations for users who might want to move their work into the professional arena.

When opening Resolve you’re initially greeted with a window that allows you to open an existing project or create a new one. Once you have a project open in the main interface, you’ll see a row of workspaces for various parts of your edit along the bottom of the window. Blackmagic calls them ‘pages’. These are termed Media, Cut, Edit, Fusion, Color and Deliver, and are arranged left to right in order to assist with the workflow. You can jump between pages at any point.

The newly introduced Cut page allows a more simplified workflow.

Is it complicated?

The introduction of the new Cut page in Resolve 16 has simplified some of the traditional workflow that was visually complicated. The inclusion of a page with fewer options will attract a number of new users. It’s very easy to quickly add shots to the timeline and trim them without having to invoke the more complicated Edit page, which can be a little complicated.

The quick export option allows access to some render presets without the need for the Deliver page.

That’s not to say that you have to use the Cut page since at any time you can jump between any of the pages. This might seem confusing at first, but it’s done in a way that allows you to use the more complicated features when you’re ready. When you start out, for example, you may find that you don’t need to use the Fusion page (for VFX work) or Fairlight page (for audio), but inevitably you will probably want to use some of the features these pages offer as your skills and requirements change. The other great thing about the Cut page is that a number of common functions can also be accessed there. For example, there’s no need to go into the Deliver page to render files as you can export your edit within the Cut page.

One thing you don’t get is any sort of guided workflow. Some basic previous knowledge is assumed, but there are plenty of excellent online tutorial videos available on YouTube from channels like learncolorgrading and JayAreTV.

The Fairlight page enables fine tuning of your audio with features like EQ and dynamics filters.

As with any new version of software , the launch of Resolve 16 brings a lot of added features and improvements. For example, with previous versions it was easy to start editing only to realize later that the key settings – resolution and frame rate – had not been set correctly. In the past this could mean that you had to start again for optimal results. This is no longer a problem with Resolve 16 as a new timeline can be created with the correct settings without the need to create a new project.

How much?

I mentioned this selling point in a previous paragraph, but what exactly is the cost of Resolve 16?…$ 0. Yes, that’s correct, you can download and use Resolve 16 for free. No time limited trial, no logo burn in and no limitation to the length of your final output.

Yes, that’s correct, you can download and use Resolve 16 for free.

The free version of DaVinci Resolve does have some limitations, although a lot of these may not be important for those just starting out or even the more advanced user. Some key limitations are that the free version doesn’t offer HDR support or timelines with a resolution greater than UHD 4K. You’re also limited to using a single GPU, and I’ve found that the rendering speeds with the studio version are appreciably quicker. This is because you can select native Cuda acceleration in the Deliver page if you have an Nvidia graphics card.

There are other limitations as well which are detailed here, although the linked table should only be used as a guideline since, at the time of writing, it hasn’t been updated to Resolve 16 yet.

The Deliver page enables multiple exports for different platforms.

Will it work with my hardware?

There are, of course, some minimum hardware requirements for Resolve but these are quite reasonable. (It would be great to get a definitive requirements list from Black Magic Design, but that doesn’t seem to be available.)

To give you an idea of what’s possible, I previously ran version 14 on a 2012 Macbook Pro and, although a little slow, it did work. My current setup uses an AMD Ryzen 1700x with 32GB of RAM, along with an Nvidia GTX 1070Ti, and it works well for me. That’s not to say things wouldn’t be much quicker with better hardware but that’s a nice thing to have rather than a necessity.

One of the many upgrade options: the dedicated Resolve 16 keyboard, which includes a real jog shuttle wheel.

What’s the catch?

So why does Blackmagic offer such a full featured video editor for nothing? Well, they’re hoping that you like the free version of Resolve so much that you want to buy into their ecosystem. The upgrade path to Resolve Studio costs $ 299, but Blackmagic also sells a number of related hardware products that will assist you in your editing. These range from a dedicated editor keyboard at $ 995 to a control grading surface at $ 1025, and even a full production suite which retails at a staggering $ 30,805. This might seem like overkill for people just starting out, but you should know that Resolve is also used in professional post production facilities world-wide. There are options for all budgets.

The next question is which version should you get, the free version or Studio? There’s no penalty in trying the free version and then upgrading later if you need features in the Studio version. Why upgrade? For me it meant faster renders, and time is money. I also considered some of the additional VFX filters that are included for $ 299 and it made sense for me.

You can also upgrade the Studio version without cost to the next version. I went from 15 Studio to 16 Studio without paying any extra. Traditionally, this has been a selling point of Resolve.

Resolve 16 offers comprehensive color grading tools, including power windows

Help, I’m stuck

In addition to YouTube there’s a very active user community via the Blackmagic forums where developers and industry professionals with hundreds of years of combined experience can help you out. There are always more features that could be included, and as the number of users of Resolve has expanded so have the feature requests. Blackmagic is listening, hence the introduction of the Cut page and the ability to create timelines in the same project that have different frame rates and resolutions.

There’s also the recently published Beginner’s Guide to Using Resolve 16, but at 444 pages it may take some time to get through.

Is it for you?

The short answer is, it depends. I’d say give it a go, after all it costs nothing to try it. If you find it difficult to use then try watching some of the videos linked above. I find myself watching some of them when new features are introduced or if I need to look at a function that I’ve never used.

There are many functions you may never use, but it’s great to know they’re available if you ever need them. If you’re not limited by the software, you can develop your skill set as and when required.

What we like

  • Free version works for most users
  • Modest hardware requirements
  • Available for Windows, Mac and Linux
  • Excellent support resources, especially via YouTube
  • Reasonable upgrade cost if you require additional functions ($ 299)

What we don’t like

  • Can appear intimidating to new users
  • Lacks some support documentation

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Why DaVinci Resolve 16 is the best video editing software for beginners

Posted in Uncategorized

 

DJI releases ‘GEO zone’ firmware update for the Mavic Mini

03 Jan

When DJI announced the Mavic Mini, its 249-gram drone that doesn’t require registration (unless used for commercial purposes), the general public was disappointed with the fact that it was missing some important features. One of those was the inability to unlock GEO Zones. Right in time for the New Year, DJI has released its latest firmware update, v01.00.0400, which also includes two important safety features.

The latest firmware update for v1.0.4, or later, of the iOS and Android version of the DJI Fly app now allows you to unlock GEO Zones. DJI also added in a feature that prevents you from taking off when the GPS signal is weak (GPS <8) and the environment light is too weak to safely operate the aircraft. This feature has been missing from all previous firmware updates, including those created for the DJI GO app, and will hopefully be implemented there, as well, going forward.

Another pertinent safety update is the requirement for compass calibration before takeoff if environment light is not sufficient or if the compass experiences magnetic interference. The latter is a leading cause of flyaways. The Mavic Mini is an entry-level drone that appeals to beginners who are especially susceptible to losing a drone. Anyone who remembers the disaster that took place in Las Vegas, when a drone flew off and landed on an airport runway, will appreciate this feature. To properly calibrate a compass, make sure you do so in an area absent of any magnetic interference.

A few other new features in the firmware update include:

  • Adjusted flight altitude and distance in payload mode.
  • Added warning prompt for battery cycles.
  • Reduced noise during self-diagnostics after powering on.
  • Fixed issue: linking was abnormal in some regions.

DJI has also noted that ‘the update may reset various main controller settings, such as the RTH altitude and the maximum flight distance, to default settings. Before updating, take note of your preferred DJI Fly settings, and readjust them after the update.’ If the update fails, it is recommended that users restart the aircraft, remote controller, and DJI Fly or DJI Assistant 2 for Mavic, and retry.

Red Zones are Restricted Zones. Users will be prompted with a warning and the flight won’t be authorized. Anyone who believes they have permission to operate in a Restricted Zone has to contact flysafe@dji.com or go through the Online Unlocking portal on DJI’s Fly Safe site.

When it comes to GEO Zones, unlocking a low-risk area requires a few taps or clicks. High-risk zones require prior approval, along with proof of credentials, and can’t be accessed within the Fly app. Basically, don’t attempt to unlock a high-risk or Red Zone, especially in close proximity to an airport, unless you know what you’re doing. Information, and other safety tips, can be found on DJI’s Fly Safe portal.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on DJI releases ‘GEO zone’ firmware update for the Mavic Mini

Posted in Uncategorized

 

DIY large format camera ‘Bertha’ shoots massive 1.1 x 1.1-meter slides

03 Jan

The Branco Ottico team in Italy has showcased ‘Bertha,’ a giant large format camera that can be used to capture 1.1 x 1.1m (3.6ft) slides. A report about the camera’s creation, as well as some images of the assembly process, were recently shared over at DIY Photography. The team explains that Berta is designed to ‘create unique works’ using the ROBA APPOSTA inversion kit chemical process created by Branco Ottico.

Bertha features a modular aluminum frame, a bellows draft measuring around 4m (13.12ft) in length and a 1000mm F6.3 lens. The camera can be used to capture portraits in macro mode, according to the team, which says they also have a mobile darkroom for capturing portraits outdoors. The team will tune the camera in early 2020, then take it and the mobile darkroom on a tour to capture portraits of people on the road.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on DIY large format camera ‘Bertha’ shoots massive 1.1 x 1.1-meter slides

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Insta360 teases a combined action, 360-degree, drone and 1-inch camera

03 Jan

Insta360, the company behind consumer 360-degree cameras, such as the Insta360 Go or One X, as well as professional models like the Pro 2, has posted a teaser video hinting at the launch of some kind of multi-purpose or modular camera on the 7th of January.

In the video footage of several electronics items being shredded in a blender is interspersed with various action-cam and drone-filmed scenes and viewers can read the sentence ‘our next camera combines an action-cam, a 360 cam, a drone, a 1-inch cam into one.’

It appears the company is close to launching a camera that is capable of providing the functionality of a GoPro-style action cam, presumably a consumer-level 360-cam like the One X, and a camera with 1″ sensor, like the Sony RX0. And presumably this camera or modular camera system can be used for aerial filming in conjunction with a drone.

This sounds like quite a unique concept that, depending on pricing, accessory compatibility and other factors, has the potential to appeal to a very wide range of customers. We’ll know more on the 7th of January when the new product is scheduled to launch.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Insta360 teases a combined action, 360-degree, drone and 1-inch camera

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Photoshop Sharpening for Beginners – Unsharp Mask, High Pass and Smart Sharpen Explained

02 Jan

The post Photoshop Sharpening for Beginners – Unsharp Mask, High Pass and Smart Sharpen Explained appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.

photoshop-sharpening-for-beginners

With the constant improvement of technology, it is realistic to expect tack sharp images straight out of your camera. Many times, though, the image appears sharper on your camera than when uploaded to your computer. This is because images need to be sharpened for their specified output. In Photoshop sharpening for beginners, we look at why and how to sharpen your images. Also, you will review some of the sharpening filters and techniques that help make a huge difference to the overall quality of your final edit.

Image: F/5.6 1/200/ ISO800 @420mm

F/5.6 1/200/ ISO800 @420mm

Why sharpen?

Before we delve into the photoshop sharpening tools, it is important to know why and when you need to sharpen your images. The premise of sharpening is that it increases the contrasts around the edges in your image.

As previously mentioned, you need to sharpen images for their specific output types. This means you sharpen an image displayed on the internet differently than one meant for print.

Sharpening is also very useful when it comes to correcting smaller focus issues. For example, if you are shooting a portrait and the focus is on the ear instead of the eyes.

Sharpening the subject’s eyes brings the attention back where you intended. In other genres of photography, use sharpening in pretty much this same way. Sharpen the areas you want to draw the viewer’s eyes to and decrease the sharpness in areas you want to “fall away”.

Photoshop-Sharpening-for-Beginners

Sharpen for your respective output: web vs print. Details make a difference F/11 1/250 ISO200 @10mm

Keep in mind that while sharpening takes your image to the next level, there are times when it is not needed. While sharpening a person’s eyes and lips can take their portrait to the next level, you want to avoid sharpening their skin!

How to sharpen

As with other editing techniques, Photoshop sharpening filters are destructive (when applied directly to your image). Use layers and smart objects, to maximize the following sharpening tools and avoid permanently changing it.

Bonus Tip: When post-processing, save the application of your sharpening technique for last.

Unsharp Masks

While the name “unsharp” sounds like a tool that would make your images less sharp, this counter-intuitively named filter is, in fact, a sharpening tool. Interestingly enough, it was regarded as the best tool to sharpen images in earlier iterations of Photoshop.

While it is still useful, some of the other tools afford you a greater amount of control.

Photoshop-Sharpening-for-Beginners

Photoshop sharpening for beginners notes: When you sharpen an image too much, it starts to look a little noisy.

To use Unsharp Mask:

  • Duplicate your original/background layer
  • Right-click on your new layer and choose “Convert to Smart Object”
  • Go to Filter -> Sharpen -> Unsharp Mask. This brings up a dialog box with the options: Amount, Radius and Threshold

 

Remember, we said that sharpening basically increases the contrasts around the edges in your image? Well, building on that will make these sliders easier to understand.

Use the Amount slider to increase or decrease the amount of contrast in the edges of your image.

Radius manages the level of detail. So a smaller radius will manage the smaller details, while a large radius affects a bigger area.

The last slider, Threshold, affects the areas of higher contrast.

Photoshop Sharpening for Beginners – Unsharp Mask, High Pass and Smart Sharpen Explained

When using these sliders, a good starting place is to figure out your radius first. Do you want to sharpen the smaller details or the larger ones? If you are still unsure how to work with Photoshop sharpening for beginners, experiment!

In this example, push your radius up and then work back down until you affect the areas that you want. From here, you can start moving around the other two sliders until you get your desired results.

One of the downsides of using Unsharp Mask is that it is Layer specific. This is because it affects your entire image, so you need Layer Masking to discard areas that you don’t want sharpening.

Smart Sharpen

The Smart Sharpen tool is like a child of Unsharp Masks, as it gives you some more options. One of the cool things with Smart Sharpening is that it ignores skin detail and focuses on areas with higher contrasts e.g. eyes, eyebrows, lips.

Use the same workflow as above to access the Smart Sharpen filter. The dialog box gives you more advanced options than the previous Unsharp Mask. Amount and Radius work the same way as previously described.

Image: F/5.6 1/1600 ISO100 @420mm

F/5.6 1/1600 ISO100 @420mm

A drop-down menu allows you to remove different types of blurs such as Gaussian, Lens and Motion blur. Lens blur is the most common removal used in this menu.

Image: In Photoshop CC, your menu looks a little differently but has all the same options. Additiona...

In Photoshop CC, your menu looks a little differently but has all the same options. Additionally, it includes a useful option to reduce noise.

Smart Sharpen also allows you to create presets. This is helpful if you are sharpening a batch of images at similar focal lengths. Remember, when you apply your filters/filter preset to a Smart Object, you can further adjust/refine it.

High Pass Sharpening

Another photoshop sharpening for beginners is the High Pass Sharpening technique. While it is a little more advanced than the other tools, you can still easily apply it. It is not a filter found in the Sharpen Menu like the Unsharp Mask and Smart Sharpen filters. What it is, however, is a combination of steps that sharpens your image.

To process with High Pass Sharpening:

  • Duplicate your layer
  • Desaturate your new layer. It seems like a strange step, but since sharpening increases saturation around your edges, your image may start to look surreal.
  • Right-click on your desaturated layer and choose “Convert to Smart Object”
  • Go to Filter -> Other- > High Pass. Your entire image now turns to gray, and when you move the radius slider, you will see the targeted detail areas affected.
Photoshop-Sharpening-for-Beginners

Left: Using High-Pass in the default normal mode, see how your edges are defined. Right: Using High-Pass in Overlay Blend Mode allows you to see your changes in real-time

There is, of course, an alternate way to this gray image where you see your edit in real-time.

Prior to the last step above:

  • Select your desaturated layer and go to Blend Modes
  • Select Overlay
  • Then go to Filter -> Other -> High Pass and adjust

 

Photoshop-Sharpening-for-Beginners

At full size, you don’t always see that the eyes are not as sharp as they can be. Like Smart Sharpen, the eyes and lips are sharpened, but the skin is unaffected. F/7.1 1/125 ISO100 @70mm

Note: This sharpening technique is the only one that lets you apply sharpening with different blend modes.

Conclusion

Remember, sharpening should be the last step in your post-processing workflow. These filters and techniques in Photoshop Sharpening for Beginners will take your image to that next level. It helps to know when and why to sharpen an image and as with all processing, applying correctly makes a huge difference to your final image.

Do you have any other photoshop sharpening for beginners tips you’d like to share? Please do so in the comments!

The post Photoshop Sharpening for Beginners – Unsharp Mask, High Pass and Smart Sharpen Explained appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Photoshop Sharpening for Beginners – Unsharp Mask, High Pass and Smart Sharpen Explained

Posted in Photography

 

We’ve updated our Sony a6100 sample gallery

02 Jan

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_7727683859″,”galleryId”:”7727683859″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

Sony’s a6100 is the perfect entry-level camera for folks looking to step up their photography game to something more powerful than their phone. We’ve updated our sample gallery to give you a better sense of its capabilities.

See our Sony a6100 sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on We’ve updated our Sony a6100 sample gallery

Posted in Uncategorized

 

New Year’s Resolutions for Creative Photographers

02 Jan

The post New Year’s Resolutions for Creative Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

new-years-resolutions-for-creative-photographers

It’s that time of year when your friends and family begin to bug you for your New Year’s resolutions. So, in this article, I’ll share with you some possible New Year’s resolutions for creative photographers.

Apparently, humans started making New Year’s resolutions four thousand years ago. So you’re in good company if you want to make some this year!

new-years-resolutions-for-creative-photographers

You might be considering pledging to go to the gym more or stop biting your nails (but we know you’ll never last past January). So instead, why not think about how you might use the new year to make some changes to your photography? You never know, they might even stick for longer than a month!

Reflect on the past year

Take some time to review the photos that you’ve taken during the past year. Pick out the ones that you like the most and try to think about why they make you feel that way. Are they perhaps full of happy memories? Or did they mark a moment when you understood a new technique?

Consider turning your favorite photos from the year into a photo book to permanently make a record of what you achieved. Think of it as being like a journal of your hobby that you can look back on in the future to see how much your approach to taking photographs has changed.

New Year's Resolutions for Creative Photographers

It could be that many of the things you enjoyed most about photography over the past year were the experiences. Maybe you enjoyed spending time with certain other friends who are into photography or going to different places. Make a note of those experiences you enjoyed the most, and we’ll come back to it later!

Don’t be afraid to take risks

Taking risks with your photography can be a useful tool to help you improve. Cameras are tools that are meant to be used and they can always be replaced.

But taking risks doesn’t have to be about putting yourself and your equipment at risk. Sometimes it can be about pushing your boundaries and taking creative risks.

The worst that can happen when you take a creative risk is that you get a photograph that isn’t as good as you hoped it would be. And if that happens, you don’t have to show anybody! But when a creative risk takes off… that’s when risk-taking really becomes worth it.

Take your camera everywhere

The famous hockey player Wayne Gretzky said that you’ll miss one hundred percent of the shots you don’t take. He’s not wrong – if you don’t have a camera with you, then you won’t be taking any photos!

New Year's Resolutions for Creative Photographers

Two years ago, I realized that I wasn’t taking my camera out and about with me because it was too big and heavy. Shortly after, I ‘side-graded’ to a more compact camera that was easier to take with me everywhere that I went.

My photography improved almost immediately. I was simply taking more photographs and getting more practice. Over time I also found that I was finding more excuses to take photographs because I was enjoying photography more than I ever did previously!

Say ‘yes’ more often

It’s too easy to say no to opportunities that crop up. You might think about the other things that you ‘should’ be doing. You might think about the money that you could be using for something else. But how much would it really hurt if you said ‘yes’ a few more times during the upcoming year?

Say yes to a photographic adventure with a friend. Say yes to a new kind of photography. Also, say yes to new styles and techniques that someone offers to show you. And, say yes to things that are outside of your comfort zone.

You might not enjoy everything that you photograph as a result of saying yes, but then you’ll certainly know for the future when to say no!

Plan your year in advance

Each year I buy an almanac, and I first use it as a convenient list of key dates and celebrations that I might want to explore photographically. But a good almanac book will have so much more than just a calendar.

New Year's Resolutions for Creative Photographers

Divided into monthly chapters, almanac’s have tide tables, information about the night sky, and what flowers are in bloom that month. It’s a guide to what you should see in nature, and some almanacs even have seasonal recipes.

Imagine if you let the almanac be your guide for photography over the coming year? You’d shoot everything from seascapes, wildlife, and cultural celebrations to food photography.

Start a passion project

The first thing to know about passion projects is that they don’t have to change the world. They don’t have to be big, dramatic, and meaningful; they just have to satisfy you and your desire to take photographs.

I like to use passion projects as a way to help me be more attentive to the world around me or to work on skills.

This year I have been setting aside the time to shoot a self-portrait every month to improve my portrait photography. While working in London as a photographer, I documented my changing walk to work for several months, as industrial development happened around me.

Use it as an excuse to get out and about and photograph things that you might not normally photograph. A friend of mine, this year, has been visiting every UK Cathedral and photographing them all. He sees parts of the world that he’s never seen before – despite them being virtually in his backyard!

Set some goals

Setting goals for your photography can be a good way to figure out how you’re going to spend the next year. Goals can help inform the trips you take, the accessories you buy, and ultimately the pictures you make.

new-years-resolutions-for-creative-photographers

Take a few minutes to consider what you really want out of your photography hobby. Is it perhaps more time for yourself with a camera? Or do you want to win a local photography club competition? Think about what you wrote down when you considered what you’d enjoyed most over the past year photographically.

Once you’ve come up with a few goals, start thinking about how you can achieve them. Do you need to take a specific trip to photograph some wildlife? Or do you need to book a workshop with a photographer who’s style you love?

Whatever you write down, make sure you tuck these ideas away in a safe place so that you can keep looking at them throughout the year. That way, you’ll find it easier to stay on track and achieve your goals.

Take more photos!

Everything I’ve talked about in New Year’s Resolutions for Creative Photographers is just a way to try and help you shoot more photographs that you love over the coming year.

new-years-resolutions-for-creative-photographers

By working out what you enjoy photographically, and where you want your journey to go over the coming year, you can start to make a plan to help you achieve your photographic goals.

Do you have any New Year’s resolutions for creative photographers you’d like to share? What are your goals for the upcoming year? What are you doing to try and do differently? Don’t forget to tell us in the comments!

The post New Year’s Resolutions for Creative Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on New Year’s Resolutions for Creative Photographers

Posted in Photography