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Archive for June, 2019

Wildlife Photographer of the Year Disqualified Due to Image Manipulation

08 Jun

The post Wildlife Photographer of the Year Disqualified Due to Image Manipulation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Africa Geographic announced its 2019 Photographer of the Year title, awarded for a dark, captivating close-up of an elephant.

Just days later, the image was disqualified and the Photographer of the Year title revoked.

winning image

In a statement that’s become more and more familiar in past years, Africa Geographic explained that “post-production work by the photographer resulted in certain tears in the ears of the elephant not being accurately reflected.” This violated one of the Photographer of the Year entry rules:

“Entries should be a faithful representation of the original scene. Localized adjustments should be used appropriately. The objective is to remain faithful to the original experience, and to never deceive the viewer or misrepresent the reality.”

Africa Geographic provided another, unedited version of the same elephant:

elephant unedited photo

Note the holes and rips on the elephant’s left ear.

The CEO of Africa Geographic went on to say: “We are gutted to have missed this detail about the rips in [the elephant’s] ears…That said, we will take this on the chin and improve our systems going forward.”

When asked about the image, the winning photographer claimed that the violation was unintentional (that it accidentally occurred when he was “cleaning up the image,”) and the contest judges have accepted this explanation.

This brings to mind a few questions:

First, how unintentional was this violation? Looking at the disqualified photo, I have trouble believing that the photographer removed the holes and rips in the elephant’s ears by accident. Did the photographer not realize that such post-processing violated the contest rules?

What are your thoughts? Did the winning photographer know that they broke the rules?

And the second big question:

Should this type of editing be allowed? 

This is a much more difficult question, one that comes down to our values as photographers. Personally, I lean toward prohibiting this type of editing. There’s something important about showing an animal as it truly is, including all the hardships it’s faced, which I think the rips and tears in the elephant’s ears exemplify.

But I’d love to have your input:

What are your values when it comes to editing nature photography? What should be allowed in nature photography contests?

The post Wildlife Photographer of the Year Disqualified Due to Image Manipulation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Best smartphone cameras of 2019

08 Jun

There are plenty of factors to consider when choosing your next smartphone, and it’s not a decision that should be made based solely on any individual feature. But we hear from a lot of folks that camera performance is right at the top of the list of considerations when it’s time to upgrade, and we’re often asked which smartphone camera is the best.

While we rank the Google Pixel 3 as the best all-around smartphone camera, it’s important to consider your unique photographic needs. Here are the smartphone cameras we think are worth consideration for a range of use-cases.


If you’re well-versed in smartphone imaging terminology, skip right ahead. But if you’d like a quick primer, here are some of the terms you’ll see referred to frequently in this guide:

Computational photography: Image capture and processing techniques that replace traditional optical processes with digital, or computational, ones.

Portrait mode: A photo mode that mimics the blurry-background effect known as bokeh. It’s used commonly for portraits, but isn’t necessarily limited to that use case.

Night Sight: Specifically, a proprietary Google camera mode that captures multiple frames and combines them to create a final image with more detail and less noise in dark situations. Other manufacturers offer their own, similar, modes but the Pixel 3’s is especially impressive, thanks to its use of super resolution that makes the mode useful even for daytime shooting.

Hybrid zoom: A method for zooming that combines traditional optical zoom with computational techniques, allowing for better detail rendering at intermediary focal lengths than digital zoom alone.

Best all-around: Google Pixel 3

It’s certainly not flawless, but if there’s one mobile device to recommend above all others for pure imaging prowess, it’s gotta be the Pixel. Sure, you’ll have just one main camera lens at your disposal, but Google’s clever multi-frame image processing brings capabilities to a single camera that are downright spooky.

Night Sight does an impressive job of rendering very dark scenes, and can even be used to bring out even more detail in well-lit scenes (provided your subject isn’t moving too much). It even uses machine learning to provide more pleasing colors. Portrait mode handles tricky subjects like hair convincingly, videos are well-stabilized, and it’s all integrated with Google’s powerful Photos app.

So who shouldn’t buy a Pixel 3? If any of the following use-cases are your primary goal for your smartphone photography, then you should consider our picks in those categories. And of course, if you’re deeply entrenched in iOS and/or you can’t stand Android, you’ll probably be happier with the iPhone XS.

Best for video: iPhone XS

The iPhone not only offers 4K/60p standard video recording (a notch above the Pixel’s 4K/30p) but it also offers HDR video capture at 4K/30p. This mode uses multiple frames for impressive dynamic range, and is simply some of the best footage we’ve seen from a smartphone.

The XS is a fantastic all-around camera in its own right, going so far as to even simulate optical properties of lenses like mechanical vignetting, so if you plan on consistently shooting a mix of stills and video it’s worth considering over the Pixel.

On the stills side, we’re particularly impressed by Apple’s decision to capture a wider (P3) color gamut and display high dynamic range photos in a manner that takes advantage of the HDR capabilities of the display – something no other phone (or camera) on the market does to-date. Not to mention that we’re partial to Apple’s color rendition over Google’s – the latter tends toward cooler white balance and less saturation.

We give the Pixel 3 an edge in our recommendations thanks to features like Night Sight and computational Raw (read up on all of that here) but the XS isn’t far behind.

Best portrait mode: Google Pixel 3

Oh, portrait mode: sometimes it’s pretty good, sometimes it’s okay, and sometimes it’s downright terrible. It’s a feature that’s very much a work-in-progress on every phone, but we think the best implementation currently is on the Pixel 3. Google uses its dual-pixel sensor as well as machine learning to identify subjects and backgrounds, giving a slightly more realistic, progressive blur. While others use similar approaches, Google’s additional use of machine learning to help the camera understand depth cues makes it stand out from the rest. It’s good enough for Instagram.

Best for zoom: Huawei P30 Pro

Huawei is the first manufacturer to bring folded optics to the smartphone market, packing a 5x telephoto lens into its P30 Pro alongside standard and wide-angle camera units. Other phones offer 5x digital zoom, but this tends to degrade image quality and the P30 Pro’s 5x optical zoom image quality is significantly better. Furthermore, it utilizes hybrid zoom to fill in the gaps between its standard and tele lenses for improved image quality compared to simple digital zoom.

Though it lacks the impressive optical telephoto reach, the Samsung Galaxy S10 and S10+ are also worth considering for more focal length flexibility. They each provide 2x telephoto and ultra-wide lenses in addition to a standard wide-angle unit. If the P30 Pro isn’t available in your area and you’re one of the Android faithful, the S10-series are also good all-rounders.

Best budget smartphone camera: Google Pixel 3a

Flagship phones have packed in more and more impressive features in recent years and likewise, MSRPs have ballooned right along with them – up to and beyond the $ 1000 mark. In this context, Google’s Pixel 3a is bargain for $ 400.

You can easily spend less on a phone by opting for a device that’s a generation or two old, but you’ll be missing out on the significant camera tech improvements available on current models. That’s why the Pixel 3a is sort of groundbreaking. By sacrificing a few features reserved for the flagship (the 3a lacks wireless charging, water resistance and uses a slower processor) and some nice-to-have imaging features (no wide-angle selfies) you’ll still get the latest camera tech and save a bunch of money.

Should I wait for the next round of flagship phones?

You don’t have to be James Holzhauer (YES RICHARD I KNOW THAT NOBODY OUTSIDE OF THE US WATCHES JEOPARDY JUST GIVE ME THIS ONE THING) to know that betting on new flagship smartphones debuting in the fall is a safe wager. Should you wait a few more months for the latest and greatest? That depends.

The next crop of phones will likely rely on machine learning for smarter algorithms to process images, isolate Portrait Mode subjects and offer more focal lengths and zoom ratios. Screens will get bigger and nicer, bezels will continue to shrink and the Battle of the Notch wages on.

With smartphone sales down there’s more motivation to make the next generation even more enticing

Things get interesting on the camera hardware side. Rumors point to Google adding another rear camera, and murmurings of a triple-camera iPhone are looking increasingly plausible. That’s good news for anyone with an eye on a budget model too: if the XS successor adds a wide-angle camera to the mix, then the XR successor may adopt the dual-lens module currently used by the flagship.

If nothing else, with smartphone sales down there’s more motivation to make the next generation even more enticing (and the ‘affordable’ versions more affordable). If you’re an early adopter or hoping for a few more features on a budget model, you might want to hold off. But if you’re upgrading from a phone that’s more than a generation old, you’ll probably be satisfied with the advancements present in the current crop of flagships for some time.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm GFX 100 review in progress

08 Jun
Our coverage so far is based on a camera running non-final firmware, so is focused on the handling and features, rather than the camera’s performance.

The Fujifilm GFX 100 is the 100 Megapixel medium format camera the company had previously promised. It’s a dual-grip mirrorless camera that uses the GF lens mount. The addition of on-sensor phase detection for faster focus and in-body image stabilization significantly expands the range of photography it can apply itself to.

This combination of high resolution, image stabilization and on-sensor phase detection looks to not only drive home its large-sensor advantage over full-frame, but also expand the types of photography to which medium format can be easily applied, making it potentially the most flexible bigger-than-full-frame camera ever.

  • 102MP BSI-CMOS 44 x 33mm sensor
  • On-sensor Phase Detection
  • 5-axis image stabilization
  • Continuous shooting at up to 5 fps
  • 4K video with 4:2:2 10-bit HDMI output
  • 5.76M-dot removable OLED viewfinder
  • 16 or 14-bit Raw capture

The Fujifilm GFX 100 will be available at the end of June with a recommended price of $ 10,000, including the viewfinder.


What’s new and how it compares

The camera’s 102 Megapixels are what attracts the attention, but the GFX 100 brings a lot more than that.

Read more

Body and handling

The GFX 100 uses a twin-grip design, and no dedicated dials which radically changes the way the camera handles. The duplication of control isn’t always successful.

Read more

Operations and controls

The GFX 100 brings the well-polished interface from the Fujifilm X-T3 but adds an even greater degree of customization.

Read more

Sample gallery

We’ve been shooting the GFX 100 in a range of circumstances, to see how adaptable it is.

Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Astropad 3.2 update shows it isn’t going away anytime soon—and teases a Windows version

08 Jun

Astropad may have been ‘Sherlocked’ with Apple’s announcement that the ability to use an iPad as a secondary display will be baked into macOS 10.15 Catalina as a feature called Sidecar, but that hasn’t stopped Astropad from updating its third-party solution.

Yesterday, Astropad 3.2 was released with a few new updates and a note from its founders saying they have no plans to stop Astropad development, even amidst Apple’s Sidecar announcement.

Astropad 3.2 brings along your normal bug fixes and under-the-hood fixes as well as a fix to minimize pixelation. According to the update notes, the development team re-engineered the data flow from Mac devices to iPads ‘in order to push data more efficiently between devices.’ This fix should mean pixelation is ‘significantly reduced’ when your iPad is connected to a Mac device over strong Wi-Fi networks or USB. Astropad notes the changes should especially be noticeable when scrolling through text documents and websites.

On iOS, Astropad Studio 3.2, Astropad Standard 3.2 and Astropad Mini 3.2 should all be available to update in the iOS App Store if you currently have the apps on your device. The macOS app should automatically update to the latest version, but if not, Astropad has a dedicated download page where you can manually download the updated version.

As for future plans, Astropad’s founders have written up a blog post explaining that Astropad isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Under the headline ‘We’re not going anywhere,’ the note reads:

We’ve spent the last five years building innovative products like Astropad and Luna Display that cater to true creative professionals. Our team has always doubled-down on delivering rich features, deep customization, and low-latency input. Why? Because that’s user-driven and that’s what we do.

So while Apple’s Sidecar merely scratches the surface of a Mac-iPad workspace, we went all in on the bells and whistles. What does this mean for you? If you have basic needs, Apple’s Sidecar may do the trick. But if you’re a pro, we’ve built Astropad to cater to your creative workflow.

Oh, and one more thing: the message from the founders also hints that a Windows version of Astropad is in the future. ‘We see a bright future in that exciting new space and we hope you’ll join us along for the ride,’ reads the message. ‘So while we may be the underdogs, we’re ready to charge head-on because we’re just as committed to creative pros as we’ve always been — whether that’s via Mac, PC, or beyond.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Analog gems: 10 additional film cameras worth buying right now

08 Jun

Analog gems part 2

Back in 2017 we shared our list of 10 excellent, affordable film cameras worth considering. Jump to today, in 2019, and public interest in analog photography has only continued to grow. So much so that we thought it was high time to revisit our original list and call out ten more film cameras worthy of your time and money.

These cameras were selected based on reader feedback, research and the staff’s collective analog lust. All of them can be found pretty easily on the second-hand market in good working order, most for a relative bargain. So get ready to hunt through your freezer for a long-expired roll of film, it’s time for Analog Gems Part 2.

Read Analog Gems part 1Note: cameras are arranged from least to most expensive.

Nikon EM

History: The Nikon EM was by all measures, a commercial flop for the brand. Yet decades later it has endured as Nikon’s smallest, lightest and best-looking (opinion) film SLR. Launched in 1979, this Aperture Priority-only camera was reportedly built with female shooters in mind – the stylish good looks are courtesy of famed auto designer Giorgetto Giugiaro. It’s anyone’s guess why the camera sold poorly; manufacturing stopped by 1982, but the theory is most women at the time preferred the EM’s fully-manual siblings to what is essentially a simplified, fashion-forward, budget model. Still, despite its entry-level status, the EM is as reliable as its pricier siblings from the same era.

If you’re after a small, handsome little camera that’s super simple to use, look no further

Why we like it: If you’re after a small, handsome little camera that’s super simple to use, look no further. The EM features a very accurate center-weighted meter that’s powered by two S76 or A76 batteries. A small button below the film rewind acts as a negative two stop exposure compensation when pressed. The camera is fully electronic in operation but can function on no juice with limited shutter speeds – an ‘M90’ mode locks the shutter speed at 1/90 sec, the camera’s standard ‘Auto’ mode sets the shutter speed to 1/1000 sec. The body is mostly built of a copper and aluminum alloy, though the top and bottom covers are polycarbonate.

Find one: These cameras are incredibly easy to come across in new, or like-new condition for between $ 20 and $ 75. They only come in black. The EM’s arrival on the scene also brought with it the introduction of Nikon’s budget E line of glass. Of this line, the 50mm F1.8 E and the 100mm F2.8 E are both impressive performers and quite compact in size. It’s very easy to find the former kitted with the EM on places like Ebay.

Also consider: The Nikon FM was a step up from the EM – they’re a little pricier and chunkier but come with full manual controls.

Konica C35 EF

History: The C35 EF is a compact rangefinder camera that debuted in 1975. It sports a very sharp 38mm F2.8 lens and the World’s first pop-up flash. Other than choosing to activate the flash or not, the camera is fully automatic in nature. A small red light on the back illuminates if the exposure is too dark and the flash is needed. Focus is set by choosing one of four zones.

Why we like it: A personal favorite of Andy Warhol, there’s something oh-so-appealing about these boxy little cameras. They’re fairly well-built, easy to use and an eye-catcher for sure. Perhaps most importantly, the lens is very sharp and metering/flash output tends to be accurate. The flash is powered by standard AA batteries. The meter uses a discontinued 1.35v mercury cell battery, however the MR-44 battery adapter will allow you to use a common silver oxide battery (392 or SR41) instead without any issues.

A personal favorite of Andy Warhol, there’s something oh so appealing about these boxy little cameras

Find one: You can find a C35 EF used, in good condition for between $ 20 and $ 75. They come in two varieties, the later version has a self timer (and a greater range of shutter speeds for the camera to choose from).

Also consider: The C35 EF3 debuted several years after the original C35 and sports a redesigned 35mm F2.8 lens. It’s also got a lighter body and has an even greater range of shutter speeds for the camera to select from. Available in 7 colors, including a cherry red variety, these can be a little trickier and pricier to track down than the original C35 EF.

Note: The C35 EF3 is shown above

Fujifilm Instant Mini 70

History: Launched in 2011, the Fujifilm Instax Mini 70 is one of the brand’s most-stylish and affordable instant cameras. As its name suggests, it uses the Fujifilm’s Instax Mini format, which comes in packs of 10. The Instax brand itself was actually first introduced back in 1998 and has grown extremely popular, especially in recent years.

Why we like it: Of all the instant cameras currently on the market, we picked the Mini 70 as our favorite thanks to its balance of price to features. It’s lightweight, looks cool and is very easy to operate. The camera’s powered by two lithium CR2 batteries which provide ample power for many packs of film. It’s also fairly well-built and offers some very basic manual controls (+2/3rd EV and flash on/off).

It’s light-weight, looks cool and is easy to operate

Find one: These cameras are still being made and can be purchased new in a wide variety of fun colors for around $ 50-75. We like Island Blue.

Also consider: The Fujifilm Instax Wide 300 uses the brand’s largest format instant film and is both easy to operate and well-built. It’s certainly a chunky beast of a camera, but that’s par for the course in this format.

Olympus OM-1/N

History: The Olympus OM-1 is a small, lightweight SLR that debuted in the early 1970’s at Photokina. It was originally called the M-1, which didn’t make Leica too happy (given their existing M-series rangefinder line), so the name was later changed to OM-1. Purely mechanical in nature, the OM-1 offers only manual controls. The OM-1N was a slightly updated model offering a redesigned wind lever, and some improvements designed to make it easier to work with a flash.

Why we like it: The OM-1 features a large viewfinder packed into a small, light SLR. It’s an attractive little camera that has some unusual design elements, like its shutter speed dial around the lens barrel. These cameras are very well-built and only need batteries to operate the meter, which takes a now-discontinued 1.35v mercury cell battery. But not to worry, there’s an adapter for that too – the MR-9 battery adapter will allow you to use a common silver oxide battery (386).

It’s an attractive little camera that has some unique design elements

Find one: These cameras can easily be found in good condition for between $ 50 and $ 150 in the two-tone silver-and-black variety. An all-black version is also available but for a good bit more cash. The OM-1 often sells with the original kitted 50mm F1.8 lens.

Also consider: The Olympus OM-2 can be purchased for just a little more than the original OM-1 and gives you automatic exposure controls as well as manual controls. There’s also no mercury battery to worry about . However the camera is fully electronically controlled, so power is needed to use most shutter speeds.

Photo by Alan Drummond

Pentax MX

History: The Pentax MX was released as a professional-level camera in 1976 during a time when competition in the SLR market was stiff and SLRs were getting ever smaller. The MX remained Pentax’s flagship until the 1980s. Externally similar to the Pentax ME, the MX is purely mechanical and offers only manual controls. The ME on the other hand is electronically-controlled with both manual and auto functions. The former was geared toward professionals, the latter toward enthusiasts.

Why we like it: The Pentax MX is a handsome camera – it’s among the smallest and lightest SLRs on our list (second to the Nikon EM) and very well constructed. Operation is fully-mechanical, so if the battery dies (two LR44 batteries) you only lose the lightmeter. Controls are simple and direct – the viewfinder is impressively large.

The Pentax MX is among the smallest and lightest SLRs in our list

Find one: The Pentax MX can be found in good condition for between $ 75 and $ 200, often with the original kitted Pentax 50mm F2 included (splurge on the much nicer 50mm F1.7 if you can find it). The two-tone silver-and-black models are far easier to find than the all-black finish.

Also consider: The Pentax ME is similar in size and weight to the MX and can be found for considerably less cash. It doesn’t have the same reputation for reliability as the MX and requires batteries to operate (except at 1/100 sec), but it is still a very good bang for your buck.

Photo by Pierre-Jean Parra

Canon T90

History: Introduced as Canon’s flagship camera in 1986, the T90 is also arguably the most advanced FD-mount camera ever made. The year after its debut Canon unveiled the all-electronic EF-mount on EOS cameras with support for autofocusing lenses, effectively nailing the coffin shut on future FD development. Still, the T90 offers a ton of modern features – like a top plate display, multi-function control dial and incredibly sophisticated ambient and flash metering modes, plus 4.5 fps burst shooting – in a tough, beautiful body. Its release also ushered in a more curvaceous era of Canon SLR design, one we’re still very much in. The Current EOS-1D X Mark II owes a lot to the T90, after more than 30 years.

Why we like it: It’s almost impossible to hold the T90 and not think about modern Canon DSLRs – so much of their ergonomic excellence is rooted in this camera. From a usability standpoint, the T90 is a pleasure to shoot with – it’s powered by 4 AA batteries. Nicknamed ‘The Tank,’ these cameras can take a lot of abuse. Did we mention 4.5 fps continuous shooting?

The T90 offers a ton of modern features like 4.5 fps burst shooting

Find one: There are some common T90 problems to keep an eye out for, like sticky shutters and faded top plate LCDs, but it’s not hard to find one in great working order. Good condition models can be had for between $ 150 and $ 250, body-only. And because the FD mount was discontinued, lenses for the T90 are often a bargain. Just be aware, almost every second-hand T90 will be missing its original eyecup.

Also consider: The Canon T70 is the boxy, more 80s-looking predecessor to the T90. It offers a top plate LCD, continuous shooting (a lackluster 0.7 fps) and multiple metering modes. Unlike the T90 it is a fully-automatic camera. You can find them for around $ 50.

Nikon FE2

History: We wavered back and forth between recommending the FE2 and the FM2 and ultimately chose the former as they’re easier to find in good condition, for a decent price. These two mid-range cameras are very similar both in design and in terms of their reliability – both are also relatively light and compact for an SLR. The FM2 was released in 1982 and only has manual controls, while the FE2 was released in 1983 and has both manual and automatic controls. The ‘M’ in FM2 refers to it’s purely mechanical design, the ‘E’ in FE2 refers to its electronically-controlled design.

Why we like it: The FE2 can be operated in a fully manual capacity or in an aperture priority mode. Conveniently, you can adjust exposure compensation by + / – 2 stops (available in third stop increments) when shooting in aperture priority. Metering is center-weighted and accurate. The camera is powered by two S76 or A76 batteries and will still work with no batteries, albeit in a limited capability (only 1/250 sec and bulb). These cameras are very well built and easy to come across in good working order.

These cameras are very well-built and easy to come across in good working order

Find one: You can expect to pay between $ 150 and $ 250 for an FE2 in nice condition, though that price seems to slowly be creeping upwards. They come in both all-black as well as two-tone black and silver. If you score a particularly minty one you can likely expect it to serve you for many years to come.

Also consider: The original Nikon FE can be had for a bit less money than the FE2, and you don’t sacrifice much (slower top shutter speed, flash sync speed, no TTL flash). On the other hand, for more cash you can get yourself the purists’ camera in a Nikon FM2.

Photo by Paul Chin

Konica Big Mini BM-200 or 300-series

History: There are a few different varieties of the Konica Big Mini that came out in the early 90’s – including several with zoom lenses. For simplicity’s sake we will focus on the non-zooming BM-200 and 300-series (which are quite similar). These lightweight point-and-shoots sport the same sharp 35mm F3.5 lens and are fully-automatic in nature. Two LEDs in the viewfinder let users know whether autofocus can be achieved and whether the flash will fire.

The flash output is well-balanced and the lens is impressively sharp

Why we like it: Big Minis are simple to use and provide excellent results – the flash output is well-balanced and the lens is impressively sharp. There’s also something to be said for their understated rectangular design. They can, however, be a tad fragile due to their mostly plastic construction. But treat a Big Mini with a little TLC and it’ll likely keep on snapping for years. One more note of caution: Be careful not to open the rear door too far when loading/unloading a roll as doing so can tear a crucial bit of electric ribbon. This is the primary failure point on these cameras. The Big Mini is powered by a CR123 battery.

Find one: These cameras can be found in good condition for between $ 150 and $ 250. They come in both silver and dark grey.

Also consider: The Big Mini F sports an even faster 35mm F2.8 lens and same boxy form-factor but tends to cost a fair bit more than its slower siblings.

Nikon F100

History: The Nikon F100 is a modern film SLR released in 1999, the same year as the Nikon D1. Slated right below the flagship Nikon F5 (and later F6) in the company’s film SLR lineup, it sports many pro-level features like Nikon’s excellent Matrix metering (as well as spot and center-weighted), 4.5 fps shooting, automatic bracketing and a variety of autofocus modes.

The F100 operates and handles a lot like a modern Nikon DSLR

Why we like it: The F100 operates and handles a lot like a modern Nikon DSLR – it looks like one too. It’s these familiar controls and use of the F-mount make it the perfect camera if you’ve got Nikon glass and are curious about trying your hands at film shooting. The F100 is also well-constructed, though a tad hefty for a film SLR – power comes from 4 AA batteries or an optional MB-15 battery pack. One word of caution: The rubber covering on the back of these cameras has a tendency to get sticky with age – this can be rectified with some careful (and time-consuming) scraping.

Find one: Because the F100 came out toward the end of the film era, these feature-packed cameras can be found for relatively little cash. Pick one up in good condition for $ 150-250. They only come in black.

Also consider: The Nikon F90 series debuted a few years prior to the F100 and offers many of the same features, but with only a single autofocus point. They can be found pretty easily for less than $ 50.

Photo by Ángeles Andrade

Fujifilm GS645S

History: Fujifilm made some wacky-looking medium format cameras in the 80’s and this one is no exception – just look at that bumper. The GS645S belongs to the greater GS645 family of compact, fixed lens medium format cameras, all of which shoot a 4.5 x 6 image. The ’S’ model offers a 60mm F4 lens that produces a 35mm (35mm-equiv.) field of view. Focusing and exposure controls are all located around the lens. There are no auto settings.

Because it shoots 4.5 x 6, you get 15 shots per roll

Why we like it: The GS645S is an excellent small and lightweight medium format option for street or travel photography. The lens is sharp and the camera is well-built. Power comes from two LR44 batteries. Because it shoots 4.5 x 6, users get 15 shots per roll. And though the default vertical orientation takes some getting use to, the camera can easily be operated vertically (for a horizontal field of view).

Find one: These cameras are slowly creeping up in price but can usually be found in good condition for between $ 300 and $ 450.

Also consider: The GS645S’ siblings are also worth your consideration. The original GS645 features a collapsible 75mm F3.4 lens and the GS645W features a 45mm F5.6 lens. You’ll pay around the same price for these models.

The wrap

There you have it, 10 cameras ranging from 70’s SLR classics to odd-ball 80’s compacts. As always, feel free to suggest other great analog camera buys in our comment section below. And for more analog fun, jump back to our original list: Analog gems: 10 excellent, affordable film cameras. Feel free to leave suggestions for Part 3 in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Fog

08 Jun

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Fog appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is FOG!

Sydney Herron

Go out and capture open plains, forests, mountains, bridges, or animals. Just be sure there is a beautiful mist/fog around it! They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Lukas Neasi

Image by © Jaymes Dempsey

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting FOG

4 Tips for Photographing Fog to Create Mystical Images

Tips for How to Enhance the Mood in Your Foggy Photos

How to Make Use of Foggy Surfaces for Abstract Photography

How to Use a Black and White Filter to Improve Your Photos

4 Key Elements to Help You Create Stronger Landscape Photography

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – FOG

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSfog to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Fog appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Facebook will reconsider nudity policies following large nude photo shoot near NYC HQ

08 Jun

The National Coalition Against Censorship (NCAC) has announced that Facebook will ‘reconsider’ its policies related to ‘artistic nudity’ following a large nude photo shoot that took place in front of the company’s NYC headquarters. In April, the NCAC launched the #WeTheNipple campaign that called out Facebook and Instagram over its nudity policies.

‘Social media has dramatically increased artists’ ability to reach–and build–their audiences,’ the NCAC said as part of its campaign. ‘Unless their medium is photography and their subject is the body.’

On its current policy page detailing the subject matter, Facebook states, ‘Our nudity policies have become more nuanced over time.’ In providing an example of this ‘more nuanced’ approach, the company explains:

For example, while we restrict some images of female breasts that include the nipple, we allow other images, including those depicting acts of protest, women actively engaged in breast-feeding, and photos of post-mastectomy scarring. We also allow photographs of paintings, sculptures, and other art that depicts nude figures.

At this time, Facebook explicitly bans images that feature ‘real nude adults’ across a variety of categories. An exception is made for images that feature nude figures in ‘paintings, sculptures, and other art,’ but critics point out that the social network has repeatedly removed artistic images depicting nudity in the past.

On June 2, American photographer Spencer Tunick, who has a long history of organizing large nude photo shoots, captured artistic images of 125 people posed nude in front of Facebook’s New York City headquarters. The images, which have been shared on Instagram (probably NSFW), feature nude participants using ‘male nipple stickers’ and prints to cover the parts of their bodies prohibited from display by Facebook’s nudity policy.

According to NCAC, Facebook’s policy team will convene a group of its employees and stakeholders, among them being artists, museum curators, and activists, and explore ‘how to better serve’ the artists on its platform. The NCAC says it will be collaborating with Facebook on convening this group in order to make sure its policy ‘is well-formed by external experts and perspectives.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Kodak plans coating trials for 120 format Ektachrome E100 film next month

07 Jun

Kodak Alaris has given a boost to those waiting for newly resurrected Ektachrome E100 to be introduced in formats larger than 35mm with an announcement that it will be testing a new coating process at the end of next month to make roll film. The company has said in the past that the process for coating 35mm film and 120 roll and sheet films is different and that the method used to make the initial reintroduced format isn’t the same as that needed for wider formats.

Kodak Alaris said directly then that it was very likely that medium format and sheet film sizes of the color transparency film would be made available, and has since confirmed that 120 and sheet films will be made this year.

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We know you’re anxiously awaiting the arrival of larger format Ektachrome E100 Films. We are diligently working on bringing them to market, with a wide coating trial of the 120 format film planned for late July! Photo of Pei Ketron @pketron Photo by @jonblack___ #ektachrome #e100 #kodakprofessional #believeinfilm

A post shared by Kodak Professional (@kodakprofessional) on

In recent posts on its Kodak Professional social media accounts, Kodak Alaris has said directly that it will be testing coating processes for 120 roll film, saying ‘We know you’re anxiously awaiting the arrival of larger format Ektachrome E100 Films. We are diligently working on bringing them to market, with a wide coating trial of the 120 format film planned for late July.’

The posts are accompanied by a picture of a girl holding a Pentax 67 medium format camera, but which was shot as part of an early trial of the 35mm format version of the film. The side of the picture is marked ‘Ektachrome 100 in 120?’

We shall have to wait and see. The company’s T-Max, Portra and Ektar emulsions are already available in sheet formats, but to special order. For more information on Kodak films see the Kodak website and the Kodak Professional Ektachrome E100 technical data sheet.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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FRAMES Chapter 2: What it’s like to shoot the Queen’s Cup steeplechase horse race

07 Jun

From horsepower to horse power, ‘FRAMES Chapter 2’ shares a behind-the-scenes look at what it’s like to go from the streets and courses of Formula 1 and World Endurance Championship racing to the first type of racing photographer Jamey Price fell in love with—horse racing.

Unlike the ‘FRAMES Chapter 1,’ which showed what it took to cover a 24-hour endurance race, ‘FRAMES Chapter 2 ‘follows Price as he covers the 23rd Queen’s Cup in Charlotte, North Carolina. As Price narrates throughout the video, the steeplechase horse race presents a unique challenge, both similar and different to motorsports races.

Throughout the six-minute video, we see what it takes to capture the various races throughout the day and, spoiler: it involves a lot of remote cameras (both DSLRs and GoPros), a day of planning, plenty of patience and sacrifice in terms of deciding what shots you capture and what ones you have to hold onto until next year.

Price was kind enough to share a few behind the scenes photos with DPReview:

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The video was filmed and produced by Austin Gager. You can find more of Jamey’s work on his website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make a DIY Photography Softbox [video]

07 Jun

The post How to Make a DIY Photography Softbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this video by DIY FixMan, you’ll learn a cool, easy way to make a DIY photography softbox!

Materials and tools

What you will need to make your own DIY Photography Softbox:

  • A lamp
  • A cardboard box
  • Knife
  • Hot glue
  • Aluminum foil
  • Spray Paint (optional)
  • an hour of your time

Steps to making your DIY Photography Softbox

  1. Cut out your cardboard to a size that will fit your lamp.
  2. Ensure you cut the angles of the sides so they are the same so that they will piece together.
  3. Get your foil and cut it to the size of your cardboard pieces (use your cardboard as a template to trace around.
  4. Attach your foil to the individual pieces of cardboard. Masking tape works fine for this.
  5. Attach one of the longest sides to a short side using the hot glue gun. Then attach the other sides – holding in place until set.
  6. Once set, take your lightbox frame to a well-ventilated area and use your spray paint to paint it.
  7. Once dry, fix in your long lamp.
  8. Attach to a stand using a bracket.

Editors Note: You could also cut a piece of white material and attach it to the front of the softbox with velcro so you can diffuse the light.

 

You may also find the following helpful:

  • Try this DIY Neutral Density Filter for Long Exposure Photos
  • DIY Photography Backlighting for Beginners
  • How to Make a DIY Lens Hood to Eliminate Lens Flare
  • How to Make Easy and Affordable DIY Food Photography Backdrops
  • How to Make Your Own DIY Light Box with Tape, Paper and a Window

 

The post How to Make a DIY Photography Softbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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