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Archive for June, 2019

‘Future lenses for today’: Sony’s Yasuyuki Nagata talks high-end optics

11 Jun
Yasuyuki Nagata, Head of Sony’s global Interchangeable Lens business, pictured at the press event where US journalists got our first look at the new G Master 600mm F4.

We were in New Jersey recently, for the unveiling of two new Sony lenses – the G Master 600mm F4 OSS, and the more enthusiast-focused 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS. During the event, we spent some time with Yasuyuki Nagata, head of Sony’s global interchangeable lens business, to discuss the new products, and Sony’s approach to mirrorless lens development.


These products use technologies developed for the 400mm F2.8 – how has that product performed in the market?

The sales have been much higher than we expected – more than double. We thought at the first stages of development for the lens that there were only a few people who would shoot sports with our products – for example only Alpha 9 users, or photographers who shoot smaller small sporting events. But after we launched the 400mm, we have seen demand from many of the top sports photographers working at large events.

Do you have a sense of how many professional photographers are using that lens, versus enthusiasts?

Almost 70% of the [customer base] for that lens are professionals. But we have prioritized allocation for agency photographers. Availability is still capped – there is a long waiting list.

Who do you see as the target market for the new lenses?

Compared to the 400mm, the 600mm is more targeted at high-end amateurs. Photographers that shoot birds, wildlife, aircraft. Maybe 70-80% will be wildlife photographers. That’s why the market is bigger for the 600mm than the 400mm.

The 200-600 will appeal to the same audience [to some extent] but some people who use those kinds of lenses will use them with APS-C cameras. To get more reach.

The new GM 600mm F4 is a big lens, but it’s the lightest in its class, coming in at just 10g less than the similarly-styled Canon EF 600mm F4 III

What are the specific differences between the two new lenses that account for the difference between ‘G’ and ‘GM’?

With G Master lenses we always include the latest, innovative technologies. We never compromise. Always the latest technologies. With the 200-600mm, there are some compromises, for example in the materials, or the body. We didn’t use magnesium-alloy, or the [newer XD linear autofocus] actuator.

The key concept is ‘future lenses for today’

Affordability is also important for the G series, to expand the size of the market. And sometimes it’s practicality. We don’t actually need to use the XD linear actuators with a small focusing group for example [like the one in the 200-600mm].

What were the major priorities for the design of the 600mm?

Basically we’re targeting the best of the best. Without compromise. Every time we plan to make a G Master series lens, we aim for ‘no competition’. Which means the highest spec. We don’t compromise on anything. Autofocus, image quality, light weight. What I mean by that is we develop new technologies every time. So there’s not a particular standard for G Master, we just include innovative technologies every time. Technologies that didn’t exist before.

We’re always listening to our professionals. And after we launched the 400mm, a lot of professionals told us they wanted a 600mm. We also consider camera bodies that will come in the future as well. The key concept is ‘future lenses for today’.

All of the main controls on the 600mm F4 are the same size, and in the same position as those on the 400mm F2.8. This is deliberate, and intended to make it as easy as possible for photographers to use the lenses alongside one another at events.

So when you’re designing a lens like this are you planning for even more focus calculations per second and faster frame rates than the a9 can achieve, for example?

Yes.

If we assume that this is a lens that will be used by a lot of a9 photographers, what kind of camera do they want next?

They always request more speed, less weight, greater usability. I think that every professional photographer wants something different. We gather all those voices and we use that feedback to plan what we should do.

When you develop a lens like the 200-600mm, how important is the requirement for video shooting?

It must support video functions. Convergence from the video side is a very obvious trend, even in the US market. That’s why we use linear action autofocus actuators. Part of it is mechanics, and part of it is optics.

The integration with our camera bodies is much better than our competitors

In zooms we’re always trying to reduce focus breathing for example, and axial shift. All of the characteristics in zooms which [can] make it a challenge to use them for video.

How would you summarize the competitive advantages of these new lenses compared to existing products on the market?

If you shoot seriously, the 600mm is for you. The spec of the lens itself, its weight and its resolution is perhaps almost the same [as the current best competitive alternative]. But the integration with our camera bodies is much better than our competitors, I think. So if photographers want to maximize the performance of their camera body, they should use this lens. At this moment, there is no competition to the Alpha 9. Its performance is the best.

The 200-600mm is a more comfortable lens to carry, at a reasonable price. We want many customers to use the 200-600mm. And we made it compatible with our tele-converters. We want to expand that field.

The 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 is a pretty long lens, but a lot of that length is the removable hood. Unlike most lenses of its kind though, the zoom is internal, so it doesn’t get longer when zoomed in.

How much difference does the body make to lens focus performance? For example if someone is using a first generation Sony Alpha 7, how different will their experience of this lens be to someone using an a9?

It will be a totally different experience. We’re always saying that we try to see the future of cameras, and this lens is capable of much [faster] performance than the current specs of the a9. So this lens will be able to keep up with the next generation. It has much more potential [than the specifications of the current generation cameras].

Is the speed of electronic communication between the camera and lens a big part of that?

Yes. We hear some manufacturers talking a lot about the number of channels of communication between camera and lens, but if the autofocus actuators in the lens can’t keep up, it doesn’t matter.

The biggest challenge is keeping the size and weight down

When we design lenses we’re always thinking about the camera bodies. Compatibility between the mechanical parts, electrics, even software. These lenses are designed specifically for our mirrorless cameras.

What are the major challenges in making such a small, lightweight lens with such a fast autofocus actuator?

The biggest challenge is keeping the size and weight down. The optical components are determined largely by [the constraints of] optical physics. There aren’t any magic technologies to reduce the size of optical elements, and the diameter of the elements can’t be reduced because it determines the F number. The electronic parts on the other hand, like the autofocus unit, we can introduce innovative technologies which make the difference. Size and weight is the most difficult thing.

This schematic shows the weight distribution of the older 400mm F2.8 compared to the last-generation 500mm F4 for the DSLR A-mount. The new 600mm F4, like the 400mm, concentrates is weight towards the center-rear of the lens, which helps a lot when shooting with a monopod or for hand-held work.

What does Sony need to do with its optical lineup to become the number one manufacturer in terms of sales?

I can’t disclose future plans, but there are a lot of opportunities, both on the telephoto side and the wide-angle side. Every segment of the lineup, there are opportunities to expand.

What is the attachment rate for teleconverters with the 400mm F2.8?

It’s at least 10%. Teleconverter compatibility was a big priority with these new 200-600mm and 600mm lenses.

Clearly the GM line is where the premium technologies are introduced – will they filter down into consumer products?

It’s possible, depending on timing. Over time we’ll introduce new technologies, and then the [existing] technologies will cascade down, one by one. Lenses are on the market for a long time, not like bodies which can launch every couple of years. But lenses it’s easily more than five years. It’s very hard to compare the camera and lens markets.

You talk about these lenses as being designed for the next generation of cameras – how long do you think these lenses will stand as benchmark performers?

Much longer [than camera bodies], I think maybe about 10 years.


Editor’s note: Barnaby Britton

When I last spoke to Mr. Nagata in 2017, he spoke of the increasing importance of professional photographers to Sony, and his ‘dream’ of seeing Sony cameras and lenses at the Tokyo Olympics in 2020. With the new G Master 600mm F4, he and his designers have taken one step further towards that goal, providing a lens which – like the G Master 400mm F2.8 – represents an almost symbolic position in any ‘serious’ camera system’s lens portfolio. It’s clearly very important to Sony that the brand is taken seriously by professional sports and wildlife photographers, and with lenses like these – and cameras like the all-powerful a9 the company is making a very strong case.

In my opinion, the a9 is the most effective camera on the market today for shooting sports. A lot of people will argue the point, but I think the technical evidence, if you care to go looking for it, is clear. That doesn’t mean that overnight, professionals will ditch their Canon and Nikon gear for Sony, of course. Without the lenses – and the professional service support – that they need, the a9 is little more than a curiosity. According to Mr Nagata, the entire concept of the G Master lens lineup is ‘future lenses for today’. This means two things. Firstly, that the lenses should offer the kind of image quality which won’t look out of date in a number of years, and secondly, that they’ll be able to keep up with – and take advantage of – future Sony camera technologies.

Older D/SLR lenses were not designed for 20fps capture using on-sensor phase-detection autofocus

The a9 is a seriously powerful camera, capable of communicating with compatible lenses at a rate of sixty times per second, but at some point it will be replaced by something even more powerful, with a higher sensor resolution, and capable of even greater performance. A lens like the G Master 600mm F4, with its twin high-speed ‘extreme dynamic (XD)’ linear focus motors, has to be designed with this kind of development in mind.

While Mr. Nagata is perfectly candid that in terms of image quality and basic specs alone, it might look similar to existing lenses from other manufacturers (the newest version of Canon’s EF 600mm F4 being the most obvious reference point), those older D/SLR lenses were not designed for 20fps capture using on-sensor phase-detection autofocus. ‘No competition’ indeed…

Slightly further down the lineup, the 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 is a more mass-market lens. Despite its lower positioning, it’s actually likely to be more important to, and more widely used by, enthusiast photographers and DPReview readers. It’s not a small lens, but the internal zoom and focus keep it relatively compact when out and about, and in my experience of shooting with it, the versatility – and sharpness – is impressive. This is the kind of lens that Sony has to release, in order to ‘expand the size of the market’ and hit Canon and Nikon where it hurts – in the high-end enthusiast market segment.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DPReview TV: Hands-on with Sony’s new super-telephoto lenses

11 Jun
Chris and Jordan, along with Senior Editor Barney Britton, traveled to New York for a hands-on look at Sony’s newest super-telephoto lenses: the FE 200-600 F5.6-6.3 G OSS and the FE 600mm F4 GM OSS. Find out what they think so far, and vote to tell us who shot the best sample images.

Get new episodes of DPReview TV every week by subscribing to our YouTube channel!

Don’t forget to view the sample galleries and vote in the poll! (Below)

  • Introduction
  • Shooting soccer (football)
  • Halftime switch
  • 600mm F4 design and build
  • 200-600 F5.6-6.3 design and build
  • Sharpness
  • Teleconverter support
  • Video capability
  • The contest
  • Who are these lenses for?
  • Wrap-up

Have your say

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Who shot the best sample photos?
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Sony 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G FE OSS sample gallery

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_7871298865″,”galleryId”:”7871298865″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

Sony 600mm F4 GM FE OSS sample gallery

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Catalog Photos Like a Pro: ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 Review

11 Jun

The post Catalog Photos Like a Pro: ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Glenn Harper.

ACDSee software has been around since the earliest days of digital photography. For 20 years, it’s been competing with Adobe Photoshop. Today, with Adobe offering its top image-editing programs by subscription only, there’s more room than ever for alternatives. ACDSee offers a compelling subscription model of its own, but it also maintains a full suite of standalone products. Photo Studio Standard 2019 is among them, and I’ll review it here.

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 - default layout

The default layout in Manage mode of ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019. You can move things around as you wish and close any panes you don’t need.

Aimed at keen photographers with growing photo collections, ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 is ideal for sorting, finding, and viewing photos. It also has a set of editing tools that will quickly make your pictures look good for the web or printing. We’ll look at all this in detail. To avoid wasting anyone’s time, this program recognizes and opens raw files but it’s not a raw editor or metadata editor – it’s a pixel editor. You have no control over how raw files are processed and can only save 8-bit files.

Embedding ACDSee metadata into DNG files

Preview of a DNG file. You can embed ACDSee metadata into DNG files, unlike other raw formats.

This review of ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 will include the following:

  • Starting up
  • Manage mode
  • Photos mode
  • View mode
  • Edit mode
  • Other features
  • Conclusion

Starting up

One thing that struck me immediately about ACDSee software was how quickly it opened. Sometimes I wait 2-3 minutes for Photoshop CC to start. There are technical reasons for that, like the plug-ins I have loaded into it and its sheer girth. Perhaps it connects to my Adobe account, too. Whatever. Photo Studio Standard 2019 opens in around 15-20 seconds every time.

Manage mode

Digital asset management (DAM) is the great strength of ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019. In Manage mode, the software offers all you need for sorting and locating your images. Like many people, you may already have your folders arranged chronologically. This is handy for sifting through them using the folder pane of ACDSee, but the software gives you lots of other ways to find pictures.

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 - folder pane

Here, I’m using the folder pane in Manage mode to browse photos. I’m not the best organizer, but I do have most folders labeled chronologically.

Calendar pane

I latched onto the Calendar pane within minutes of opening ACDSee. Even if you have your folders arranged by date, it’s so quick to rifle through your photos month by month using the calendar. You can widen the search by choosing multiple months or use single days to narrow it. I used this feature straight away to dig out a few files I might’ve overlooked as potential stock photos.

Catalog pane

The ACDSee Catalog pane gives you several ways to find what you’re looking for: color labels, keywords, ratings, saved searches, categories, and auto categories. Of course, you have to add most of this info yourself to the images, but that’s easy using the software. Auto categories come from EXIF data, so you can filter results by the lens or aperture used, for instance.

cataloging photos with ACDSee software

There are various ways to filter photos in the Catalog pane, some of which rely on you having rated, keyworded, labeled, tagged, or categorized your photos already. In this screenshot, I’m looking at photos taken with a particular lens.[/

Map pane

ACDSee includes a Map pane. Drag your photo(s) onto the place where they were taken, hit Save, and the GPS coordinates are automatically embedded into the EXIF data. Cool! That wasn’t a feature I expected at this price point (Lightroom has it), but it does show how thorough this software is in what it does.

Embedding GPS coordinates into photos

Dragging a photo or several photos onto a spot on the map and hitting “Save” embeds GPS coordinates into the metadata.

Shortcuts pane

The Shortcuts pane offers a way of bookmarking files you know you’ll often need. It makes it that little bit quicker to find any special photos – perhaps a collection of your best-ever shots.

Image Basket

Another neat feature of Photo Studio Standard 2019 is the Image Basket. Normally, when I’m preparing a gallery for the web, I create a new folder on my desktop to work from. The Image Basket is a way of gathering original files together without having to copy them elsewhere.

Keywording in ACDSee

Keywords are an invaluable way of quickly finding what you’re looking for, but they can be time-consuming to add. ACDSee is ahead of Adobe in this respect. It’ll import any keywords you’ve added elsewhere to the IPTC data, but it has excellent keywording capability of its own.

Adding keywords to images

The ability to create large keyword sets of up to 250 is enough to satisfy any lexicologist. I wouldn’t normally need that many, but 40 or 50 isn’t uncommon. Adobe software is restrictive in this respect.

A welcome feature of the new ACDSee ‘Quick Keyword’ tool is the ability to use 25 rows by 10 columns of words (i.e., up to 250 keywords). In Lightroom, you can only have 9 keywords max per set – a source of frustration for many users. ACDSee has its own metadata field that is stored in the database rather than embedded in the file, but you can embed it into suitable file formats.

Photos mode

In Photos mode, ACDSee catalogs all images from the location(s) of your choice and puts them on display so you can scroll through them. Like the Calendar pane, it’s an easy way for you to search visually and find pictures. Hovering the cursor over a thumbnail brings up a larger preview with vital info such as image dimensions, file size, and folder location.

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 - Photos mode

Photos mode on the daily setting. You can scroll through your whole database, but it’s still divided by daily, monthly or yearly headings.

View mode

Double-click on a photo in Manage or Photos mode and you’ll bring up a large view of the image in ACDSee’s View mode. Various viewing options are available as well as useful editing tools like Auto Light EQ™ and Auto Lens. You can rapidly scroll through files in this mode and tag images or add ratings, labels, keywords, and categories. It’s an extension of Manage mode if you want it to be. Clicking on Edit mode from here takes the open picture into editing.

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 - View mode

View mode is the place to be if you want to browse large previews of your pictures. Double-clicking on any picture in Manage or Photos mode brings you here, too. You can also perform a few basic edits in this space or categorize photos.

Edit Mode

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 has plenty to offer in terms of editing but something has to be sacrificed at this price point, and that’s parametric (non-destructive) editing. Photo Studio Standard is a pixel editor only, so you make physical changes to rendered images. You can still leave the original file untouched, but as soon as you finish editing and save a file, there’s no going back and tweaking your adjustments. This is more important if you’re in the habit of reworking pictures or if you edit extensively and want your work to be reversible.

Repair

There are a couple of tools under the “Repair” heading. The red-eye reduction tool is something I’d probably never have a need for, but I tested this with a public domain image. Works well – easy to use.

Correcting redeye in photos

With this close-up view, I found myself wishing the size of the adjustment would go slightly larger, as it barely covered the dilated pupil. But still, the red-eye has gone. Most portraits won’t be as near to the subject. Photo: Wikimedia Commons.

One of the few glitches I encountered in ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 was a malfunction among the repair tools. I can get the Heal tool to work, and it does a nice job of blending the sampled pixels into a new area. But the Clone tool hasn’t worked for me even after a reinstall. I just get a blacked-out image. This appears to be a bug in the program, as it works flawlessly in other ACDSee software I have on my PC.

Add

Under the “Add” heading you can insert text into your photos or a watermark (the Watermark feature is new in 2019). The default watermark is the ACDSee camera logo, but you can use your own graphic if you want. There are also borders, vignetting, special effects and tilt-shift choices here.

tilt-shift photo effect

The Tilt-Shift tool makes Manhattan look miniaturized.

Personally, I’d be most likely to use vignetting out of these, as it helps direct the viewer’s eye and is a useful photographic tool. It can be fun to add borders to your photos, too, which you can customize in this case with a wide selection of textures or any color you choose.

I counted 54 special effects in ACDSee’s collection, and each is modifiable in some way. Even the ones that don’t instantly appeal might work for you with some adjustment, so there’s a lot to go at. Among my favorites are Collage, Lomo, and Orton. The latter is great for creating a dreamy look.

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 - Orton special effect

This is the Orton special effect, making a peaceful scene even dreamier.

Geometry

Under “Geometry”, ACDSee provides rotate, flip, crop, and resize tools. There are some thoughtful touches among these tools, like the ability to control darkness outside the crop area. The Rotate tool also has a cropping feature, so you can level the picture up if necessary and correct wonky horizons.

When resizing, the default algorithm is Lanczos, but it’s worth experimenting, depending on what you do with your photos. Lanczos gives a sharp result when downsizing, for instance, but if you want to back off that a little and achieve smoother edges, try Bicubic.

Exposure/Lighting

ACDSee offers some powerful tools under “Exposure/Lighting,” not least its excellent Light EQ™ technology alongside traditional tools like levels and curves. Light EQ™ is similar to curves, only better in some respects since it treats highlights, mid-tones, and shadows separately. That’s only possible to a degree using curves without layers.

ACDSee Light EQ technology

Here, I’m using ACDSee Light EQ™ to adjust the tone of the image. By having the Exposure Warning switched on, I can ensure a good tonal range without losing detail in the shadows or highlights. As soon as pixels appear in red or green, I back off the adjustment slightly. I have the histogram showing the blue channel, as that’s the nearest to clipping at both ends.

The auto buttons in these exposure/lighting controls are also worth a hit every now and again. Personally, I find the auto setting in Light EQ™ tends to make things too bright, but it might provide a better starting point.

You can set your black and white points using eyedroppers in levels and also define the clipping limits under “tolerance.” (Don’t worry if this means nothing to you – it’s only one of several options.

I should mention, too, that ACDSee provides an Edit Brush and gradients with many of these controls, so you can apply edits to selected parts of the image.

Color

Under “Color,” you’ll find White Balance, Color Balance, Convert to Black and White, and Color LUTs. The White Balance tool is excellent, though, like all white balance tools, it relies on neutral tones in the image to use as reference points.

You could also correct color using the Color Balance tool, especially in conjunction with the floating histogram. A good thing about the ACDSee histogram is you can stretch it out as far as you like for a detailed look at tonal distribution. There’s a hue/saturation tool alongside color balance.

Using the histogram - ACDSee software

You can make the floating histogram as compact or elongated as you wish.

“Convert to Black and White” is new to ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019. Based on the colors you know are in the image (e.g. blue sky), you can adjust their brightness to alter the contrast of the final result. This also lets you emphasize different areas of the photo. Good stuff! Contrast is also affected by the RGB percentages, which must always add up to 100. A high proportion of red usually creates more contrast in cloudy blue skies, for instance. Colorized monochrome images are possible, too, under Convert to Black and White.

ACDSee Convert to Black and White

Using the new “Convert to Black and white” feature, I’ve increased the brightness of cyan a fair bit to make the fire-escape steps stand out more. Then I’ve colorized the picture with sepia-like brown tones.

One of the best things in ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 Edit mode has to be Color LUTs. These let you alter the look of your photos (often drastically) via numerical color shifts. They’re like photo filters on steroids. ACDSee LUTs are good, but you can also download LUTs from the web and load them into the program.

Using color LUTs in photos

The lower half of this picture has the ACDSee “Turin” Color LUT applied to it. Look closely and you’ll see it’s darker with deeper blue windows and yet has a more cyan sky. You can use the Edit Brush or gradients on many edits.

Detail

Sharpen, blur, noise, and clarity all lie under the “Detail” heading. These are all pretty standard. The sharpen tool is like unsharp mask with amount, radius and threshold settings. Typically, you use a low radius for high-frequency photos with a lot of fine detail or a higher radius to bring out coarse detail across a wide area. A sharpening mask slider would be a nice bonus here if I were compiling a wants list. That would be quicker than selective sharpening with a brush.

Other Features

In case all the above isn’t enough, there’s more. For instance, the external editor feature in Manage mode lets you swiftly open images in other programs. Perhaps that will be Photoshop or it could be ACDSee Photo Editor 10, which would complement Photo Studio Standard well.

ACDSee also has a dashboard that gives you stats on equipment used, database size, and photo counts that show you how prolific you’ve been at various times.

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 dashboard

The ACDSee Dashboard, indicating prolific use of a Sony RX100 in my case. There are numerous other stats available.

You can create PDFs, PowerPoint files, slideshow files, zip archives, contact sheets, and HTML albums straight out of ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019, too. There really isn’t a lot you can’t do.

More new stuff

ACDSee also introduced AutoSave and Auto Advance features in 2019. AutoSave does away with the “do you want to save changes?” dialog when you move onto another image. Auto Advance is good for rating, labeling, or categorizing photos, as it moves onto the next image automatically once you’ve clicked.

Also new in 2019 are customizable keyboard shortcuts, support for HEIF files (used on later iPhones), and print improvements that let you adjust for differences between what you see on screen and what your printer produces.

Conclusion

As much as I understand the benefits of SaaS and subscription software models, I think there will always be a market for standalone products that consumers can update when they want.

ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 is, first and foremost, a great photo organizer. I’ve never seen better. It’s quick as a browser – doesn’t hold you up – and it gives you workflow choices. There are lots of nice touches to make tasks easier. It’s not especially advanced as a photo editor, but you can achieve a lot without layers, 3rd-party plugins, and even Adobe’s unassailable repair tools.

If like me, you prefer taking photos to organizing them, ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 is the ideal way to get your collection under control. It drills into your database from several directions and helps you find any picture. Many people will want to supplement the editing capabilities with other programs, but you won’t find much better than this for photo management.

Disclaimer: ACDSee is a paid partner of dPS

The post Catalog Photos Like a Pro: ACDSee Photo Studio Standard 2019 Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Glenn Harper.


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NYC’s iconic 101 Park Avenue skyscraper was turned into a giant camera last month

11 Jun

Photographer Brendan Barry, founder and director of Positive Light Projects and creator of numerous unusual cameras, recently transformed the 46th floor of NYC’s 101 Park Avenue skyscraper into a massive camera obscura. The camera was part of the larger Skyscraper Camera Project installation that was live from May 13 to 16 in the iconic Manhattan tower.

Barry, accompanied by photography students, looks over a negative captured as part of the Skyscraper Camera Project.

Barry has crafted different types of cameras out of a variety of unexpected materials, including a medium format camera built in a pineapple, a 4×5″ camera that incorporates a log and a 35mm ‘butternut squash camera.’

According to the CBS affiliate WLNY, Barry gathered with 20 photography students on Saturday, May 11, to blackout 160 windows in the 46th floor of 101 Park Avenue. Lenses were installed in the dark space, enabling the team to project large images onto screens inside of the skyscraper. Below is a short feature WLNY created on the project:

The project was conceived by Favorite Child Creative founder and director Nicholas Kalikow, according to The Phoblographer. The 46th floor of the skyscraper was available during that time, offering a 360-degree view of the Manhattan skyline and the unique opportunity for this installation.

One of the many images captured with the skyscraper camera obscura.

During the workshop, Barry and participants produced what may be the largest analog photographs of New York City; they measure up to 45″ x 93″. The photos were developed in an on-site darkroom. In addition to transforming the floor into a large camera, the team also created a functional camera replica of the skyscraper.

Below is a collection of behind-the-scene images from the project that Barry kindly shared with DPReview:

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Barry’s other work can be found on his website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DJI Studio quietly releases new STORM drone

11 Jun

When it comes to new releases, DJI isn’t exactly known for being quiet. Unplanned leaks typically surface in various online communities a few days ahead of every official announcement. Even with speculation leading up to an event in the form of photos and product descriptions, the world’s top drone manufacturer hosts glitzy, high-end affairs for media and industry insiders to introduce its new products. The Osmo Pocket, for example, launched last December at ‘Good Morning America’s’ New York-based television studio in front of a live audience.

This is why it’s surprising that DJI chose to officially introduce a new professional-grade drone, through a provider, at Cine Gear Expo in Los Angeles. The four-day event, which took place from May 30th to June 2nd, attracted top-tier creators in the technology, entertainment, and media industries. What’s even more perplexing is that the video announcing the release of the STORM was uploaded to DJI’s YouTube channel back in January and remained under the radar until DroneDJ first discovered it.

Why has DJI been relatively silent about STORM, along with its DJI Pro service which was released last December after being available in Asia for close to two years? To start, the STORM is not for sale. The Verge recently confirmed that one company outside of China, Helinet Aviation, based in the U.S., claims to own one and is testing it out.

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On display in the Helinet booth at Cine Gear will be the DJI STORM – the X8 drone made by DJI to seamlessly carry the industry standard DJI RONIN 2 gimbal. This drone is the only one in America. Cine Gear will be your chance to see this beast in person and grab some photos! @djiglobal @djipro BOOTH B106 in the B-Tank ?: @robgluckman_photography Helinet Aviation is the worldwide leader in aerial camera movement with solutions including Helicopter, Cinejet, Learjet, Moviehawk and Drone platforms led by world renowned Aerial Coordinator Kevin LaRosa II @k2_larosa Helinet Production Group: @k2_larosa @chad_daring @broby_thimpson @jfburton2 @aexandraalejandro @michaelfitzmaurice @fad2blk @dronepilotmike @cameronfitzmaurice @jaredslater @scherbas @bruno_04cl7 @airborneimages @bentonward @joe.kocsis @paddymoynahan @robgluckman_photography @jip_01 @steve_koster @insdangraming @tj.millard @mrsteelefpv @stingersswarm @helinetaviation @helinetmoviehawk @cinejet #philpastuhov #jasonlafargo

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How does a production company obtain access to this new-and-improved rig that can carry the heaviest, most advanced payload yet? It appears that DJI may be planning to offer the STORM for rent, packaged with the DJI Studio Custom Aerial Cinematography Service that includes a van and and professional crew. Comparable heavy-lift drones in its class, such as the xFold Dragon X12 start at $ 30,000.

Some STORM specs:

  • Comes equipped with eight propellers
  • Max speed: 49.7 mph (Sport mode) / 37.2 mph (GPS mode)
  • Operating temp: -10°C/14°F to 40°C/104°F
  • Flight time: 8-15 minutes
  • Max Payload: 40.8 pounds

Compared with DJI’s professional-grade Matrice 600, which starts at $ 5,000 and can carry a payload of around 5.9kg (13lbs), the STORM can handle up to 18.5kg (40.8lbs). This allows cinematographers to place and easily maneuver more sophisticated cameras on its DJI Ronin 2 PTZ gimbal including Arri and RED models.

U.S. representatives for DJI have not confirmed if more STORM models will be made available in the near future, stating they will have to check with Shenzen, China-based headquarters.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make Friends and Collaborate in the Photography Industry

11 Jun

The post How to Make Friends and Collaborate in the Photography Industry appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.

Have you ever seen or been a part of a photography conference? Or even just walked into a camera store and spent some time observing people interacting in the store? It is as if we photographers speak another language, live in another world, or even belong to a cult. Of course, I mean this without any form of disrespect. Photographers and photography enthusiasts are a class apart. We all get excited about new lens and gear, talk in F-stops and ISO settings, and some of us save for years and years to buy a particular brand of camera or lens!

Ballet inspired styled shoot collaboration with other wedding vendors Karthika Gupta

The photography industry is growing in leaps and bounds – not only in technology but also in the number of people who are aspiring photographers or even hobbyists. With easier access to gear and a wealth of free education around, photography is a career choice for almost any generation. However, it also means that many people are doing the same or similar things. Most photographers, at some point or another, think about industry competition to get ahead of the curve in the kind of money and work they think they need to get ahead.

I want to assure you that making a living is possible in this space. There is more than enough work to go around. Your peers and colleagues are not out to ‘get you’ or ‘steal work from you.’ Let go of that scarcity mindset and instead think of how you can collaborate with your competition in ways that can become a win-win for both of you.

Often times, the colleges and friends you make in the industry do more for you than you could imagine. They send their overflow work your way, and you make genuine friendships with people who speak the same language as you. You also get to collaborate on creative projects that improve your own skill as an artist.

There are several ways you can make friends and collaborate in the photography industry.

1. Attend conferences and photography related events

There is nothing quite like getting a bunch of photographers in a room to talk shop and discuss the latest and greatest gear and techniques. The energy and the learnings at such events are incredible. Most conferences and events get the best speakers and teachers, so this is a great way to increase your skill set and also meet some of your mentors and peers.

As someone who has started to speak and teach at conferences and events, I am just as nervous to get up on stage as you might be to come to an event! However, I am so happy to meet and mingle with my people – folks who love photography as much as I do.

So go with an open mind and be willing to put yourself out there to make genuine connections and friends.

Food styling and food photography workshop Collaborate with other photographers Karthika Gupta

I had the opportunity to attend a conference and took some food styling and food photography classes. While there, I made some amazing friends who, to date, have been very supportive of each other’s work.

2. Join local groups

If traveling for a conference or an event is not your thing, thanks to apps like Meetup and Eventbrite, there are plenty of local chapters and groups that are photography specific. Some groups routinely go out and photograph. Others have workshops and classes where members exchange ideas and knowledge. Find what works for you and be open to give as much or more than what you receive.

3. Connect with photographers who you admire

I have to admit; this one is one of my favorite ways to connect with others in the photography space. Most photographers are on social media because it is such a great visual tool to showcase your work. So I find it easy to find photographers whose work I admire on social and engage with them regularly. Sometimes it is a ‘like,’ other times it is a comment or a direct message (DM). Nothing crazy or weird, I just say hello and compliment them on something that I find enjoyable. This is not a place to ask favors or ask for work. Instead, this is a place to connect and be social. The more you engage, the more you become a familiar face. Then when the time comes to collaborate or work together, let that organically happen.

Don’t ask open-ended questions or ask to pick their brain. Instead, do your research and ask intelligent questions. Ask about their motivation or inspiration or an accomplishment that they are proud of. Perhaps you could ask how they get over a creative slump…anything that humanizes you and them.

Collaborate with other photographers Karthika Gupta

I collaborated with another photographer who I met online. I stayed at her house for the weekend and created some amazing work that I am most proud of to date.

4. Be friendly and cordial

Always be friendly and cordial. No matter the stage of business you are at, always remember you too started at the bottom of the ladder too. Just because you have ‘achieved’ success doesn’t mean you have to be rude. On the flip side, to the person who is reaching out to other photographers, do the same. We are all in this together. You will make genuine friends when you are honest and genuine yourself. You will just put people off when you are insincere.

5. Offer something of value – no, it’s not always money

I am of the school of thought that money is not the ultimate form of success. Yes, we need money to survive – to put food on the table, pay the rent and other necessities like that – but there are many people out there who are motivated by something other than money.

Find your passion and find what feeds your soul. The money is sure to follow.

When working with others, offer something of value. When you are collaborating with other creatives, put your best foot forward so that the collaborative effort is worth its weight in gold. That way, it is a win for everyone included.

Styled shoot and portfolio building Karthika Gupta

I conducted a styled shoot for new wedding photographers, and as a result, collaborated with many vendors who got photos in exchange for products and services – a win-win for all.

6. Pre and post follow through is important and essential

When collaborating with other creatives, communication about expectations and outcomes is critical. It is important everyone is on the same page so that each party knows what they need to put in and what they are going to get out of it.

Communication can be as formal or as informal as you all agree. Typically everyone pitches in or brings something of value (time, talent, props) to the table. After the collaboration, people share each other’s work, give critique and sometimes even share images for each other’s portfolios.

No matter what process you use, make sure everyone agrees.

It is also important to do a debrief on the collaboration. Figure out what worked and what didn’t. How can you all make it better next time? Make sure to address any issues so you can all walk away with a positive experience.

Collaboration isn’t just with other photographers. It can also include vendors and businesses in your area of specialty. You can make a trade of goods and services in exchange for photos. Here pre and post-follow-up are critical so that all expectations are met.

Collaborate with vendors and businesses not just other photographers.

Collaboration, when done properly, should be a mutually beneficial arrangement. By collaborating with others, you get to learn, improve yourself, and help others as well. It is a very healthy and creative way to inspire and be inspired while working on something atypical.

Have you collaborated on some great projects? Share your experiences with the dPS community in the comments below.

 

The post How to Make Friends and Collaborate in the Photography Industry appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.


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BCN Retail report: Japanese camera market still in decline

11 Jun
Graph: BCN Retail

Analyst firm BCN Retail, which collects daily sales data directly at on- and offline points of sale, has published data (Japanese) on the camera market in Japan for the fiscal year from April 2018 to March 2019. With almost all big manufacturers based in Japan, the domestic market is an important indicator for global trends and unfortunately, things have not improved from previous years, according to the numbers.

At 37.3 percent of all units sold, Canon remains the market leader, but Nikon has been able to increase its share, according to BCN, thanks to improvements in compact camera sales, and now stands at 26.7 percent. Sony is a solid number three at 13.1 percent but can rely on the highest average per-unit price. Olympus and Fujifilm follow on the next positions with 6 and 5.8 percent respectively.

In terms of units sold, these numbers are bad news for almost all manufacturers, though. Canon is down 1.3 percent year-over-year, Sony 6.6 percent, Olympus 13.8 percent and Nikon even 15 percent. Only Fujifilm has been able to increase the number of units sold—by an impressive 19.4 percent.

The picture slightly shifts when looking at revenue, though. In money terms, Fujifilm’s sales increased by only 0.6 percent. Sony, however, managed to expand sales by a whopping 14.5 percent, thanks to a focus on high-priced premium models in its camera lineup.

At the other end of the spectrum, things do look pretty dire for industry giants Canon, Nikon and Olympus whose sales value went down by 11.4, 28.5, and 21.3 percent respectively.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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When is the Best Time to Photograph the Moon?

10 Jun

The post When is the Best Time to Photograph the Moon? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter West Carey.

Moon phases are a key to understanding when you should be out taking photos. These days it’s easy to predict where and when you will see the moon for the type of photos you want to produce.

First let’s start with some tools you might want to look into, then options for different moon phase photos.

Tools

Astronomers have known the secrets of the moon’s phases and timing for eons. Ancient civilizations built monuments and shrines in regard to locations of the sun, moon and stars long before computers were invented. Our modern tools are a little easier to access.

Newspapers and Websites

Not into learning full astronomy? My first suggestion is to Google the phase you’re looking for. It’s that simple. One of the top sites that will appear in the results is Time & Date. You can find all the phases of the moon, based on the location of your Internet connection, right here. If the location isn’t correct, simply search for your city and the site will give you all you need to get started.

Another great option (that also has an app, but it is so much better on a large computer screen) is The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE). I wrote about using TPE here on DPS and they have a Web App available for those who don’t use phones and their apps.

The US Navy has a simple site that allows you to print out a year’s worth of times for any location on the planet.

Don’t have an Internet connection while you travel? Newspapers still print the information for the moon and sun phases (as well as setting and rising times).

Apps

Everyone loves a good app, and there are three that I keep loaded on my phone for photography purposes. All of these apps will show you the angle of the moon at any time, its phase, and some even help you calculate the best time to photograph the moon.

Full moon over Washington’s Cascade Mountains

My choices are:

    • Photo Pills   (DPS astrophotography instructions)
    • LightTrac
    • Photographer’s Ephemeris   (DPS full moon instructions)

Catching the Full Moon

The best time to photograph the full moon is the day before or after a full moon. Why’s this?

A full moon is marked at the height of its path across the heavens and this is often after midnight. Let’s say the moon reaches the height of its fullness at 12:26 am on July 2nd. This means the full moon actually rises on the day BEFORE that which is marked on the calendar. Throw in use of Daylight Saving Time and the timing can be wonky.

Full moon rising above Washington’s Cascade Mountains and Puget Sound

Going out the day before the moon is actually marked as full means you’re catching the moon rising just about at the same time as the sun is setting. So the sun is lighting the moon and often the foreground of your scene. This gives a nice, even lighting to your scene.

The same can be said for shooting the full moon setting the day it is marked on the calendar.

Late at night, you can still capture great images of the moon. However, you have to understand that the contrast difference between the moon (a giant reflector in space) and the black sky will be immense. This means you will lose detail in the moon if you attempt to hold the shutter open long enough to exposure the foreground. Some creative light painting can come in handy in this case.

Full moon and chorten with the Himalayas in the background. Mong La, Nepal

Half/Quarter Moons – Daytime wonders

Some people call them half-moons because half of the moon is illuminated. Some call them quarter because they are at the quarter phase of a full cycle. Either way, they look the same.

Half-moons will rise or set in the middle of the day. It matters on whether the moon is waxing or waning, meaning if it is getting closer to full or further away in its cycle. This is a good time to use an app or Astro calendar to plan ahead.

You’ll be best served by catching a half moon when it is rising or setting, just like with a full moon. Having it closer to the foreground subjects will help it appear larger. Let me give you an example.

Here’s the half moon rising in Canmore, Alberta, Canada just behind the Rocky Mountains.

Half moon and the Canadian Rockies

Nice and large when using a long lens and the moon is close to the ground. It is fairly high in the sky here as I am looking way up at the mountain.

Now, here are two examples with a nearly half moon over Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, and another of it over Seattle, Washington.

See the issue? It’s still a half moon, but later in its cycle, when it is far from foreground objects, it is relatively small and loses some grandeur.

Slivers or Crescents

Slivers, or crescents, are visible just before and after a new moon. Look for them a couple of days before and after the new moon and, just like full and half, try to find a time when they are low on the horizon.

Crescent moon setting over the Himalayas

You will also notice the sliver will seemingly rotate as it crosses the heavens and this may affect your composition choices. As with the half moon, you will have even more trouble giving the moon prominence in a mid-day shoot when it is high in the sky.

Lunar Eclipses

Lunar eclipses are all the fashion these days with this or that news source touting, “This will be the last blah, blah, blah for decades!”  But don’t let them fool you; lunar eclipses happen often enough – about once a year. However, their location can be the biggest issue. Let’s go back to Time & Date’s site for more info on upcoming lunar eclipses for the next 10 years. You’ll need to click on the “Lunar” tab once on the page.

Not all of those eclipses will happen in your neck of the woods, so you’ll have to click through and see where they will happen. As with solar eclipses, when the sun is blotted out by the moon, people will often travel far and wide for lunar eclipse shots.

A full lunar eclipse, at its height, means the moon will be completely in the shadow of the Earth. Because of the distance between the Earth and moon, some light still slips past the Earth, which causes it to have all colors except red stripped away. This is why lunar eclipses are sometimes called blood moons.

Again, having a foreground subject helps because the eclipse often happens high in the sky. The whole sequence of the moon moving into and then fully out of the Earth’s shadow can take a little over an hour, and you should plan accordingly. The colorful and best ‘action’ of the eclipse will span maybe 5-10 minutes.

More tips on capturing lunar (and solar) eclipses are found in this DPS article.

New Moon or No Moon – Photograph the Stars

When the moon’s not out, it’s a great time to photograph the stars. And my, oh, my, do we have a batch of great articles to help you with that!

  • How To Plan Astrophotography With The Photopills App
  • Astrophotography Made Simple
  • How to Choose a Lens for Night Sky Photography
  • Reducing Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking
  • How to Add More Interest to Your Astrophotography With Light Painting

Conclusion

Moon photography is a fun and challenging subject because the moon is constantly changing phases and its location in the sky. Thankfully, we have plenty of tools at our disposal to track and plan for great moon photos. While full moons are alluring, try your hand at the other phases, too.

Feel free to share your photos of the moon with the dPS community in the comments below.

best time to photograph the moon

 

The post When is the Best Time to Photograph the Moon? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter West Carey.


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Fujifilm plans to bring back NEOPAN 100 Acros black and white film by the end of the year

10 Jun

Fujifilm has announced it will re-start black and white film manufacturing this year and will bring out a new version of its former Acros film. The new NEOPAN Acros 100 II will feature finer grain and the company claims it will be the sharpest black and white film on the market.

In a press release on the Fujifilm Japan website, President Kenji Sono explains that after the company stopped production of monochrome film last year many of its users asked for production to be started again. Part of the issue for the company, he says, was that some raw materials in the film were hard to source. For the new film alternatives have been found and the production process radically changed to account for them.

Using ‘Super Fine particle technology’ the company has achieved an extremely fine-grained emulsion that produces what are described as 3-dimensional results. Highlight details are also much improved over the way they were rendered in the previous film.

NEOPAN Acros 100 ll is due to go on sale towards the end of the year and will be available in 135 and 120 formats.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm X100F versus Ricoh GR III: Which is better for you?

10 Jun

Fujifilm X100F vs. Ricoh GR III: Which is better for you?

The Fujifilm X100F and Ricoh GR III are two very different cameras, but they’re broadly aimed at the same audience – camera-savvy enthusiast photographers who want a high-quality compact camera without sacrificing manual control or sensor size.

As you’d expect, the X100 and GR lineups each have a hugely loyal user base, built up over several years, and upgrades come slowly. But with the recent launch of the Ricoh GR III, and the continuing success of the X100F (with no signs of it being replaced any time soon) this seemed like a good time to compare the two models, to help you decide which one better suits your needs.

Focal length

Let’s deal with perhaps the most fundamental difference between these cameras first – the Ricoh GR III offers an equivalent focal length of 28mm, whereas the Fujifilm X100F provides a 35mm equivalent medium wideangle. Which of these focal lengths suits you better is of course down to personal taste, and your preferred style of photography.

As a very rough, casual comparison, 28mm is a loose proxy for a human being’s widest field of vision, whereas 35mm more closely matches your field of attention. As such, 28mm is great for images where you need to fit more in, or provide more context for your subject. Being slightly tighter, 35mm is more of an everyday ‘do everything’ focal length. It’s wide enough to make framing pretty easy for casual snapshots, but not so wide that your subject gets lost in the frame.

Verdict: Tie (depends on preference)

Adapters

But wait – it’s not quite as simple as all that. While the X100F and GR III offer native equivalent focal lengths of 35mm and 28mm, both can be paired with adapters to increase their lens’ versatility further. Fujifilm’s $ 349 screw-in WCL-100 II 28mm adapter is excellent, and increases field of view with very little image quality penalty. Another adapter, the TCL-100 II (also $ 349) can be used to magnify the lens’ effective focal length to 50mm. You might find that sharpness drops a little when the 50mm adapter is used (especially at close focusing distances) but if you enjoy shooting at 50mm, the added versatility might make the resolution penalty worth it.

Meanwhile, the GR III can be paired with the GW-3 wide converter ($ 149, plus adapter ring) to take its native 28mm equivalent lens all the way out to 21mm. We haven’t used the new adapter yet but performance of the older GW-2 adapter for the GR/II was excellent, which is encouraging.

The downside to adapter solutions for both cameras is that they add considerably to the size and weight of the cameras, not to mention additional cost.

Verdict: X100F wins for the added versatility of 28mm + 50mm equiv. converters.

Lens speed

Aside from their native focal lengths, another key differentiator between these two cameras is the speed of their lenses, expressed in terms of their maximum apertures. The Fujifilm X100F offers an F2 maximum aperture (equivalent to ~F3 in full-frame terms) while the GR III’s lens is slower, at F2.8 (~F4.2 equiv).

The difference in maximum aperture has a couple of important effects. For one, you’ll have more ability to blur backgrounds and isolate your subject from the faster lens of the X100F, aided also by its longer focal length. You’ll also be able to shoot at lower ISOs in lower light with the Fujifilm without resorting to a tripod. On the other hand, the wider lens of the GR III, and its stabilized sensor (more on this in a minute) mean that the low-light disadvantage is somewhat mitigated (assuming static subjects) and you may not need a tripod except in very dark conditions.

Verdict: Tie. Too many variables.

Stabilization

Ah yes – about that. Perhaps the most impactful upgrade to the GR III compared to its forebears is the addition of sensor-based image stabilization, which allows hand-held shooting down to at least 1/10sec without any trouble, assuming normal conditions (i.e., you’re not shooting from a helicopter or standing outside in a strong gale).

The addition of stabilization mitigates the limitations imposed by the GR III’s relatively slow lens when it comes to low-light shooting, and allows for creative options like creatively introducing blur (from flowing water, traffic, people walking by, asteroids striking the earth, etc.). The Fujifilm X100F has no such system, either optical or sensor-based, which is a major plus point in favor of the Ricoh.

Verdict: Ricoh GR III’s in-body stabilization means more options in low light.

Sensor

As a casual glance, the sensors in the Fujifilm X100F and Ricoh GR III look like they could be the same. And in fact, at a hardware level that might actually be the case. Both provide 24MP worth of resolution and on-sensor phase-detection autofocus pixels, and image quality is broadly comparable. Image quality is also in line with many of the best 24MP APS-C cameras on the market when it comes to Raw detail and dynamic range.

The difference is in the filter arrays. Ricoh uses a conventional bayer-type filter array, whereas Fujifilm uses its own proprietary X-Trans design. If you’re a JPEG shooter, there’s a definite – albeit subtle – advantage to X-Trans when it comes to critical detail retention, across most of the X100F’s ISO sensitivity range. And the X100F is well-suited to JPEG shooting, thanks to its suite of excellent Film Simulation modes, which replicate the look of classic Fuji film emulsions. We’re less enthusiastic about the JPEG output from the GR III, particularly in terms of color.

On the other hand, the more conventional design of the GR III’s sensor means that its Raw files play rather better with third-party Raw converters than those from the Fujifilm. While the difference isn’t massive, and Capture One deserves a mention as one of the software suites that actually does a great job. It might make a difference if you’re a Raw shooter with (for example) an established Adobe Raw workflow.

Verdict: Ricoh GR III’s more conventional Raw files are more flexible.

Body size

The Fujifilm X100F is styled after the classic rangefinder cameras of the 1960s and 70s, and it’s around the same size as a Canonet or Yashica rangefinder (if you’re old enough to remember either). It’s a small camera, and will fit comfortably into a jacket pocket or handbag but it won’t slip into a shirt or trouser pocket. You’ll probably need either a hand strap or conventional neck strap to keep it secure when shooting.

On the other hand (no pun intended), despite having a sensor-based stabilization system built into the body, the GR III is an impressively small camera. Compared to the X100F, the GR III is genuinely shirt-pocketable, and when turned off it takes up remarkably little space in a pocket or bag. Annoyingly, the GR III lacks proper strap lugs so it won’t accept just any conventional strap, but the slim (included) hand strap is probably all you’ll need. Obviously if you enjoy shooting with a viewfinder attached, the GR III becomes a lot less compact, which leads me on to my next point….

Verdict: Ricoh GR III is genuinely pocketable.

Viewfinder

…the GR III does not have a built-in viewfinder, whereas the X100F does. And in fact, the X100F’s viewfinder is one of its best features. Unique to Fujifilm, the X100F features a ‘hybrid’ finder which can be switched between a high-resolution electronic view, and an optical view with exposure and focus information overlaid. Personally, I use the X100F almost exclusively in EVF mode, but a lot of photographers swear by the immediacy of the optical view. Impressively, the X100F can offer a version of the classic rangefinder focus aid by overlaying a portion of the live view feed in the optical finder. It’s hard to describe in words, but works well if you’re a fan of manual focus.

With the GR III, on the other hand, you don’t have the same options. While simple optical finders can be attached (and Ricoh will sell you one, for quite a lot of money) you miss out on in-view focus or exposure information, and there’s no option to add an external EVF.

Verdict: Fujifilm X100F’s built-in hybrid optical / electronic wins by a mile.

Flash

Another thing missing from the GR III compared to the X100F (and in fact previous GR models) is a flash. Possibly for internal space reasons, possibly for battery life reasons (or a combination of both) Ricoh deleted the internal flash on the GR III, and own-brand external flashguns add considerably to the size of the camera. The Fujifilm X100F on the other hand features a small built-in flashgun. It isn’t the most powerful in the world, but is useful for low-light social photography and fill-in purposes when shooting in daylight. And both cameras have leaf shutters, allowing flash synchronization at very high shutter speeds.

Verdict: The Fujifilm X100F wins.

Touchscreen

What Ricoh’s engineers took away with one hand, they gave back with the other – in a significant upgrade compared to older GR models, the rear screen is touch-sensitive, and can be used to quickly place the AF point, and scroll through / zoom in to captured images. Some traditionalists might be tempted to disable the touchscreen (and the camera’s physical controls are there to take over if you’d prefer to go that route) but we’ve found that the addition of touch sensitivity makes a positive impact on the GR III’s handling experience.

The X100F is a more control and dial-heavy camera, and offers a conventional, non touch-sensitive screen. Whether this makes a huge difference to your purchasing decision is as much about personal preference as anything else, but with the camera held out away from your eye, it is easier to quickly position a focus point by touch on the GR III than it is with the AF joystick on the rear of the X100F. If you’re typically a viewfinder shooter, the lack of touch-sensitivity on the X100F might not bother you all that much.

Verdict: The Ricoh GR III’s touch-screen does make some key operations easier.

Control interface

The Fujifilm X100F is the fourth in a line of X100-series cameras which really set a template for the X and G-series mirrorless cameras that came later. A key part of the appeal of the original X100 was its (for the time) novel ‘retro’ styling, and every subsequent model in the lineup has shared a consciously old-fashioned hands-on design philosophy, with physical dials for key exposure settings, alongside the usual modal buttons and rear controls.

Arguably, you don’t really need all those dials, and personally I think the X100F is over-endowed with control input points. I haven’t used a physical shutter speed dial since the Nikon F4, so when I shoot with the X100F, mine stays locked to ‘A’, but some people swear by it. And they look great, which I suspect is part of the point. The downside to the X100-series’ distinctive styling is that the cameras do tend to attract attention. Be prepared to be asked, ‘is that a Leica?’.

Control interface (con’t)

The GR III on the other hand offers a simpler, more subtle, less cluttered control interface which arguably better suits its specifications. A simple exposure compensation toggle on the rear doubles as a modal control for quick access to key shooting settings, and a dial on the upper right of the top-plate serves as the main input for exposure settings. Meanwhile, a lockable exposure mode dial provides a simple (and visually clear) means of moving between PASM and automatic exposure modes. As as already been mentioned, the touch-screen on the rear of the GR III helps to simplify some actions, like setting the AF point and navigating through captured images.

In the end, the choice comes down to two things – how you like your cameras to work, but also how you like them to look.

Verdict: Personal preference (but the Ricoh GR III is more streamlined).

Battery life

This one is pretty straightforward – while neither offer spectacular stamina, battery life from the X100F is pretty ok, whereas battery life from the GR III is decidedly less ok. Both cameras will probably get you through a day of shooting without any issues, but we’d be much less confident about leaving the house without a spare battery for the GR III. One of the most welcome upgrades in the X100F over its predecessors was a more powerful battery, and its CIPA rating compared to the GR III speaks for itself (390-330 shots compared to 200).

In reality, in a single shooting session with minimal image review, both cameras should be able to capture a lot more shots per charge than the CIPA figures suggest, but there’s no escaping the fact that the GR III’s battery is on the skinny side.

Verdict: The Fujifilm X100F wins with roughly twice the battery life of the GR III.

Movie mode

Arguably, neither of these cameras is really suited to serious movie shooting, but of the two, the X100F is a far more convincing video camera. While not spectacular, its maximum video resolution of 1080/60p is fine, with a good degree of control over exposure. Focus is AF-C or manual only, but it’s still usable, and there is a socket for an external mic.

The GR III on the other hand offers a very thin video feature set. Although it also boasts 1080/60p resolution, exposure is locked to ‘P’ and there is no option for adding an external microphone.

Verdict: The Fujifilm X100F is the better of the two (but neither are great).

Summing up

So which of these two cameras is best for you? Aaaaaaall together now: It depends.

Obviously that’s the answer – that’s always the answer! You know how this works by now. If you value compact size over the convenience of a viewfinder, go for the GR III. If you’re one of those people that just doesn’t ‘get’ 28mm for some reason, go for the X100F. If you like to shoot a lot in low light but you don’t carry a tripod, the GR III is a better choice. If you want the camera to shoot video, frankly I think you’d be mad to consider either of them, but in a pinch the X100F is the less terrible of the two. Etc., and so on.

At the end of the day, both are excellent cameras with their own strengths and relatively few serious weaknesses. They’re just different. If you have the money, there’s actually a pretty good argument to made for buying both the X100F and the GR III, and using them alongside one another. Both cameras together will still take up less space in your bag than most mirrorless ILCs with a zoom lens.

Ultimately, you’re a grownup. You know what you like, and you know what you need. You’ve got this! Feel free, as always, to share your thoughts in the comments and let me know if I missed anything!

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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