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Archive for May, 2019

Adobe’s mobile video editing app Rush makes its way to Android

23 May

Adobe has just announced the release of Premiere Rush CC for Android. Previously the video editing app had already been available for iOS, Mac and Windows operating systems. To run the Android version, you’ll need a fairly recent and powerful device, such as the Google Pixel 2 or 3, Samsung Galaxy S9, S10 and Note 8 and 9, as well the OnePlus 6T.

Premiere Rush CC is meant to be a simpler alternative to Premiere Pro CC and Audition for mobile video editing on the move. It is aimed at Youtubers, vloggers and similar content creators.

In terms of feature set the app offers color correction and resizing, and the option to include motion graphics and audio adjustments among others. Finished videos can be directly shared to Youtube, Instagram and other channels and all projects are synced to the cloud for accessibility from all devices and data security. Projects can also be edited in Premiere Pro.

For those who want to try the app before buying, there is a free starter plan that lets you export up to three projects with 2GB of cloud storage free of charge. After that, you’ll have to subscribe to one of Adobe’s plans. You can use the app with a Premiere Pro plan which will cost you $ 10/month with 100GB of cloud storage for individuals. Team and enterprise plans are available as well.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography

23 May

The post Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.

Getting your favorite band into your photo studio might sound like a dream come true – but could quickly turn into a disaster if you don’t know what you’re doing! Not all bands know how to pose or position themselves for photographs, and it’s your job as a photographer to direct them. So before you find yourself having a crisis – unsure of how to properly get bands set up for their epic promotional shoot – check out your guide to posing bands in photography!

How is band photography different from other group photography?

I hear this question a lot in my line of work. How does band photography differ from, say, a group portrait at a sports game or a family reunion? Well, the short answer is – the intent is different. Though all types of photographs tell a story, band photography has to sell both the image and idea of the band. The poses, styling, arrangement, lighting, and everything in between is akin to the marketing of the music group itself. To make this even more complex, the audience members have to develop the right preconceived idea of what the music will sound like based on the picture! This is the same principle that is applied to album artwork.

Aimee Saturne

As well as this, the connection between all of the members in the band is different than that of family members or a sports team. Bands can be a complex series of relationships, some akin to kinship, others to sibling rivalry, and some can even be likened to business partners. Whichever is true for the band you are photographing, that unique relationship will come out in the photographs.

Does the genre of music affect the pose?

DIM7

In short, yes and no. The genre of music can impact every facet of the image, but not necessarily. Doubling back to the idea that a photograph of a band needs to sell their music, the genre portrayal can be a fundamental part of that goal. For example, metal music has a much darker, harder, and tougher edge to it than, say, a girl pop band.

Much of how I figure out how to pose bands has to do with three key factors:

  1. What is the stereotypical image for that genre? (This being said, the image does not have to be stereotypical – but there are some specific poses to include if you want to really push on the fact that the band plays a specific type of music).
  2. What image does the music evoke? (I find that closing my eyes and listening to some of the key songs pointed out by the band can provide a lot of inspiration. Music and imagery tie together, and whatever image is evoked by the sound is one that you should likely follow).
  3. What is the story the band wants to convey with their presence?

Aimee Saturne

Here is an example of how these three questions can drive a photo shoot.

Say that a five-piece, all-female symphonic metal band approaches you, with a melancholy and dark sound, whose story revolves around pagan rituals. With this in mind, the posing will likely be more rigid with the band members standing in a crescent formation due to the ritualistic nature. Their chins will likely be a bit lower down with a very slight hunch and legs tightly placed together, and eyes are looking directly towards the camera (whilst the face is slightly lower down).

Likewise, say an all-male pop duo approaches you with a very light-hearted, summer, beach feel to their music, with a tagline revolving around living every day in the moment. The posing will be very loose, fun, and expressive – likely a popular choice would be to place the two lads back to back with them looking over their shoulders at one another laughing and the arms placed in very relaxed positions.

As a photographer, much of our jobs revolve around bringing a static visual image to an ever-moving description.

Chasing Desolation

To express why genre doesn’t necessarily have to affect the pose, not all bands fall perfectly within a box.

That’s a good thing. Art shouldn’t always be easily categorized.

As such, some acts defy traditional rules and do not follow convention. Their images won’t follow convention either, and the posing may change drastically from the usual.

Common posing qualms

Of course, posing groups of people isn’t without its troubles.

Here are some of the most common posing “uh-ohs” you might encounter (with solutions, of course):

Not all of the band members are a similar height – someone might be very short or extremely tall

This is a very common situation you’ll encounter. Luckily, there are some clever solutions!

Firstly, if your band promotional image doesn’t include full body shots, simply place the member(s) on boxes (often called ‘apples’ in studios) that even-out their height.

If the band does want full body shots, play with perspective. Place the taller members further in the back and the shorter members closer to the front. A reverse V or U shape is an excellent idea!

Thirdly, get creative with levels and props. My go-to – which tends to receive favorable reviews – is to place one member sitting on a chair and pose the rest of the band around the chair. The taller members can crouch on the ground at the corners of the chair while the shorter members can stand around the chair. The frontman or frontwoman sits in the chair.

You can achieve a similar effect by posing on stairs, walls, rocks, or anything that allows one person to sit while the rest are crouched or standing.

Killin’ Candace

Everyone is wearing the same color clothing

I photograph primarily heavy metal and rock music, so this is something I deal with daily. Everyone wants to wear black in a black studio, against a black wall. The result, when done right, is super cool. However, when done wrong, the image suffers from “floating head” syndrome.

The real key here is to ensure that every article of clothing is a different texture from one another. Everyone can wear the same color, but try to encourage the band to wear different textures.

For example, a shiny top with matte pants works great. If a band member has both a matte top and matte pants, throw in a textured scarf or a tie to break it up. Jewelry is also a great idea. The point is, the colors can all be the same, but the way the clothing photographs must be different from one another. This can affect pose positioning as well, as you don’t want the same texture to cross one another and look flat in an image.

You can also use lighting to help separate the subject from the background. For example, shoot your studio lighting behind the band so that it creates a rim light, which pushes them off of the studio wall.

Our Dying World

Someone is dressed elaborately and someone is not

Sometimes, a band member overdresses while others underdress. If you can’t swap out wardrobes or add accessories, then get extremely creative with posing.

When I was pursuing my visual communications degree, I had a wonderful professor drill into my head that the key to an effective image is having the viewer’s eye move around the entire frame rather than settle on one central point.

A great way to get the viewer to take in the entire image rather than settle on one point is to place the elaborately dressed band members around the less-elaborately dressed members on opposite ends.

Another solution is to use the flashy wardrobe to create lines that the viewer can follow throughout the image. A good way to create a line is to have the overdressed band member stretch an arm out to the other band members to encourage the eye to travel.

Bullet Height

You are shooting a large piece band in a small, constricted space

If you do backstage photography, you’ll run head-on into this issue (especially in Los Angeles. Unless the band is in a major theater like The Hollywood Bowl, your backstage experience will be cramped. Trust me on this one). The most efficient way to utilize small spaces is posing the band in levels. Have some crouching and some standing, some leaning on walls and some stretched on the floor! Think of keeping everyone in a square image ratio format. You’ll be able to pose even 11-piece bands in a small space (I’ve done it!).

Trash Deity

How does the lighting affect the pose?

The lighting you are using will make a difference in how you pose the band. If you’re shooting outdoors and are at the mercy of natural lighting (but don’t have a reflector), you will need to adjust head, hand, arm, and leg positions in order to make the best of the conditions you are working with.

For example, if you ended up shooting at high noon, keep chins up to avoid unflattering shadows on the neck. Likewise, make sure hands aren’t hidden in shadows so that they do not appear too dark.

Jyrki 69

If you are in the studio with more controlled light, this becomes a bit easier – assuming you have enough lights! Work with what you have, and find creative ways to pose the musicians in order to illuminate them in the most flattering way. If you don’t have enough lighting units to capture certain poses, avoid them altogether (unless you are a whiz at post-processing!).

Karim Ortega

(Pssst: reflectors are your best friend! Both indoors and outdoors. In outdoor situations, these help control the light. In indoor situations, if you don’t have enough budget for additional studio lights, you can use reflectors to bounce light and help it stretch further. Reflectors are budget-friendly solutions, and can even be made at home if you are DIY-savvy).

Is hierarchy in a band a real thing?  

Athanasia

With some bands, it definitely is! Generally, you want the frontman or frontwoman as the center of attention with the rest of the band members posed around. Some bands have more than one vocalist, and often the vocalists tend to be the central figures (not to be confused with importance. All members are important. A band does not function without all of its contributing talents). Guitarists and bassists tend to find themselves beside the singers naturally, and other instruments such as percussion and keys even further off to the sides.

Bullet Height

Most of the bands that step into the studio are live performers; that is, they have experience playing on a stage together. As such, the first thing I do is have them stand in my studio the way that they would arrange themselves on stage. I use that as the basis of where I pose everyone in the lineup. Many bands organically step into the spots that they are meant to stand in.

Posing a solo musician

Brandon Rage

Posing a solo musician opens up a door of massive possibility. Very little is out of your control here. However, remember, because you are photographing only one person, try to give the image as much interest and life as possible. Images are static; we have to make them move. The more dynamic the pose, the better, and the benefit of music photography is that you can get super-quirky with it!

Grant Webb

Remember that traditional posing rules also apply here. Flattering angles and flattering poses. Try to avoid harsh shadows on parts of the face or body that may make someone appear different than they are.

Aimee Saturne

Mess around with props as well. Props are great ways to give a client something to do with their hands or legs. They can also make an uncomfortable or nervous client much more comfortable as they have something to which to focus. Don’t assume that because a client is a musician that they love getting photographed – not everyone does. It’s your job to give them the best experience possible and make them love being in front of the camera with you.

Aaron Lee

My technique is to shoot with a high shutter speed and have the musician constantly move and change poses, encouraging even the weirdest of ideas to come through. More often than not, the weirder it seems, the better it looks. Also, making the client move continuously keeps them from pausing and overthinking.

… with instruments

Alexx Calise

Including their instrument is a common request from musicians, especially solo artists. Band photography often steps into the realm of endorsement photography for the various instrument companies that may be sponsoring the project. With solo artists, it’s fairly easy to get them posed with their instruments as you don’t have to consider the spacing with other band members.

Alex Crescioni

The key with instruments, however, is to ensure that the instrument does not cover any important parts of the musician’s body such as their face! The instrument should fit in very organically and not feel forced or uncomfortable. It’s okay to have the band member pose with, say, a guitar hanging just a bit lower than they play it – as long as everything looks natural.

Ace Von Johnson

Commonly, I have the musician play the instrument to feel more comfortable with the lens being there. Often, those candid moments look amazing.

Arielle Silver

Posing an odd number of persons

Posing an odd number of people in a band is arguably the easiest (outside of a solo musician). This is because you can adhere to many of the traditional (and very effective) band poses, such as the “U” formation, the “V” formation, and anything else that pushes the lead member to the front. The lead member that stands in front of the rest is a great baseline to use to pose the remaining band members. Moreover, you tend to keep your composition more even on either side as a result.

Athanasia

However, don’t let this fact make you lazy. Just because you can do a traditional “crowding around the lead” shot, doesn’t mean you should make it boring! After all, you’re photographing bands – play with various facets of music photography and keep it interesting.

… with instruments

The addition of instruments might seem daunting, but this is a brilliant opportunity to use the lines of the instruments to have your viewer’s eyes move around the frame. As well as that, this allows you to use the instruments as a way to direct the attention to the lead of the band.

Posing an even number of persons

Zeistencroix

The most common even-number band is two. I love posing two-person bands. There is such a dynamic range of posing you can do. The connection between each member in a two-person band is also really cool and unique. There are lots to play off here. Honestly, get as quirky with this as possible!

Batfarm

An added benefit to two-people bands is that they don’t take up much space. Whether you’re in a studio or an outdoor location, two people take up less space than three or more. You can fit in a lot of wickedly cool shots in smaller spots.

Ascent

The main things to remember are that both members need an even amount of attention in the images. Don’t try to have one overpower the other. It doesn’t look right in an image.

Our Dying World

Now, the difficult even-number bands are those of four, six, or eight members. The primary difficulty is that you can no longer arrange them in “V” formations or have one member in front of the other because there isn’t an odd number! As such, try staircase poses or diagonal lines. You don’t want either side of the frame to feel too empty or too busy; you have to even it all out.

The addition of a prop is an excellent idea to even out the composition. I like to pose even-number bands in a more square-ratio (and this isn’t just because of the rise of Instagram). This gives you more options for dynamic posing and is a good baseline to help pose even-numbered bands.

… with instruments

Much like with just the band members themselves, use the addition of instruments to comply with a square posing ratio even further. If you pose everyone straight, make sure that you have enough room for the guitar and bass necks. You can play with levels here too, like in the example image below.

Our Dying World

Bonus tips:

  • Straight backs! Pay attention to your client’s back and shoulders. If they are arching, straighten them out unless you’re going way more vogue and odd. In that case, over-exaggerate the arch.

Alex Crescioni

  • Make sure there is nothing in anyone’s pockets. You will thank me for this one in the editing room.
  • Don’t allow someone’s pose to block out a key part of another person’s body.

Brandon Rage

  • For the “stretching arms towards camera” pose, have the band member cheat and keep the arm lower. It may feel counterintuitive, but if they stretch out towards you organically, their face will be blocked.
  • Pay attention to how poses cast shadows on oneself and the people around them.

Final takeaway

In conclusion, all great posing arrangements start with a deep understanding of what your client is wanting and needing. Don’t be afraid to have some fun with it, but keep everything cool, flattering, and most of all – epic. This is the music industry after all!

Do you have any other tips to add to this guide for posing bands in photography? If so, please share with us in the comments below (and your band photos)!

 

The post Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.


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Camera-friendly Canadian airport cuts holes in perimeter fence for aviation photographers

23 May

Québec City Jean Lesage International Airport, often shortened to Jean Lesage International Airport, has made camera holes in a range of locations around its perimeter fence to allow photographers an unhindered view of planes taking off, landing and moving along its runways and taxi areas.

The airport has propelled itself to the number one spot for aviation photographers with the project. Metal frames surround the holes to prevent wire scratching lenses and accompanying signs to clarify the area is reserved for photographers.

The airport got together with local plane-spotting group YQB Aviation to identify the best angles for photographers and then created a total of 10 sites all around the airport that provide views of exactly what photographers want to shoot, seen in the image below:

Jean Lesage International Airport which recently won awards for its environmental practices and as an outstanding workplace, and which carried almost 1.8 million passengers in 2018, also hosted a 5km run on its runways earlier this month to offer locals a different view of the airport.


Photo credit: Images by Jean-Lesage International airport, used with permission.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos

23 May

The post How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

When I got started with family and child photography, I thought I had all my bases covered. Between my cameras, lenses, locations, and shot lists, I figured I was all set to create some amazing portraits that families would treasure for generations. Then I ran head-first into a practical problem for which I didn’t really have a good solution; where do people sit? All the camera gear in the world won’t help on location with no place for parents, kids, or high school seniors to sit and pose for their pictures. I finally made my own solution, which has performed flawlessly, and it’s something you can make in an afternoon with a few tools you might already have in your garage.

Before I built benches like this, I tried to use things I had around, such as bar stools, folding chairs, and even our living room coffee table. None of these really worked well or looked very professional. Once I realized I could construct my own bench props, my portraits improved almost immediately.

This tutorial is going to cover a sturdy single-person bench 16 inches high, 16 inches deep, and 18 inches wide. This design is easy to customize if you want something wider, deeper or shorter, but it’s a great place to start if you’re looking for a simple one-person option.

This boy is on a wider version of the bench you’ll build in this tutorial.

Materials needed

The wood and hardware you need to construct a photo bench are pretty minimal:

  • Two 2×4’s, 8-feet long
  • 3/4-inch thick wood, 8-feet long and 11-inches wide. I like to use low-grade utility shelving but any similar wood will work just fine.
  • 1.5-inch Deck Screws
  • A saw to cut the wood

The boards on the right, plus some screws, are all you need to build the bench on the left. It’s an easy afternoon project and your clients will appreciate having this highly practical prop. I spent about $ 40 on the four pieces of wood at a local lumber yard.

The following tools will help you with the construction process, but your own situation might be different. These are what I used, but feel free to adapt as necessary. For instance, you could use a circular saw instead of a miter saw. This is a fun project to do with someone else, so if you don’t have any of these tools, you could ask a friend for help.

  • Miter saw
  • Table saw
  • Drill
  • Sandpaper or electric sander
  • Kreg Jig*
  • Kreg Jig screws 2.5-inches in length with coarse threads*
  • If you don’t use a Kreg Jig, you will need additional deck screws 2.5-inches in length.
  • Wood glue (optional)

A table saw is really useful for ripping the utility shelving to a uniform width of 3 inches.

*A Kreg Jig is a staple of a lot of DIY projects, but if you don’t have one already you probably don’t need to buy one just for this photo bench. Traditional wood screws will suffice just fine.

A view of the bench from below. You could probably construct it out of thinner, lighter materials but it would be far less durable.

Phase 1: Cut the wood

For this photo bench you will need to cut the following pieces of wood in the lengths listed below.

A miter saw makes this project a lot easier, but other cutting tools would suffice just fine too.

  • 2×4 boards, 7.5-inches long – 5 pieces
  • 2×4 boards, 15-inches long – 4 pieces
  • 2×4 boards, 15.5-inches long – 4 pieces
  • 3/4-inch thick boards, 3-inches wide and 16-inches long – 8 pieces
  • 3/4-inch thick boards, 3-inches wide and 18-inches long – 12 pieces

It’s a lot easier to cut everything first and then assemble the bench all at once.

Phase 2: Build the frame

If you have a Kreg Jig, you can use it here to construct the frame of the bench. But if not, you can just use traditional screws. If you want to have an extra-secure hold, you could use wood glue at the joints as well, but it’s not necessary. I would recommend against using nails though, as they’re going to wiggle loose over time and you want this bench to be as sturdy as possible.

A Kreg Jig is really useful but not necessary.

If you’re going with this method you’ll need to use your Kreg Jig to drill two pocket holes in each end of the 15-inch, 2×4 boards.

15-inch boards with two pocket holes in each end.

When you’re done putting pocket holes in the 15-inch boards you’ll repeat the process with the 7-inch boards.

7-inch boards with two pocket holes in each end.

Once your pocket holes are ready you can start assembling the frame of the bench. Secure a 15.5-inch board to each end of one of the 15-inch boards to make a U-shape.

This shape will form one side of the bench.

Repeat the process with the other two 15.5-inch board and another 15-inch board. When you’re done you will have two identical U-shapes.

Both sides of the bench, not yet attached to each other.

If you don’t have a Kreg Jig, or don’t want to go to the trouble of using pocket holes, you can use regular screws to attach the 15.5-inch boards to the 15-inch board. As long as you end up with two U-shaped pieces as shown above, you’ll be just fine.

After you get the U-shapes constructed, attach the other 15-inch board on the open end, but rotate it 90-degrees as shown below.

Attach the second 15-inch board to the open side of each U-shape.

Repeat this step with the other U-shape, which will give you two of these square pieces as you can see in the following image.

These form the sides of the bench, and you’ll need to attach them by first securing all the 7-inch boards to one side.

I find it easiest to attach all five of the 7-inch boards to one side, and then attach that entire assembly to the other side.

Again, I like to use a Kreg Jig and pocket holes, but you can just as easily use regular deck screws to do this. Don’t worry too much about appearances either, as if you use deck screws you won’t really see them in the finished product. They will be covered up with the slats you will attach in Phase 3.

The finished frame, upside down on my table saw which doubles as a small workbench.

If you do end up using pocket holes, you might find yourself working in some really cramped conditions when you insert the screws. A right-angle attachment for your drill can be a huge lifesaver in this step! Once you’re all done, flip the contraption over, and you’re all set for attaching the slats to the sides.

The brace in the middle gives the bench an extra measure of support. Kids can jump on this thing all day long and it won’t be harmed.

It’s important to know that this bench is designed to be sturdy as well as aesthetically pleasing, as you can see in the photo above. You might be able to find something similar at a store but it probably won’t be built this solidly. Also, it won’t stand up to years of use and abuse.

Note also the extra 7-inch board on top, which you can see in the above photo. This helps give even more structural support to the bench so it won’t buckle under the weight of people using it over the years.

Phase 3: Attach the slats

Once you have the basic frame built, you can get a little creative in how you want to finish everything off. I like to attach the boards about 1/2-inch apart, but you can space yours closer or farther. I wouldn’t go too far though, especially on the top where people will be sitting.

Attaching the boards is pretty simple: just place them where you want them to go and attach with deck screws. Other types of screws would work too, but I like deck screws because they are self-tapping and hold very firmly. Nails might work for this step, but I prefer deck screws because of their firmer hold.

I like to use four slats on each side as well as the top and space them about a 1/2-inch apart. But, this is also up to you. You might use fewer boards and make them wider. Or you may use several thin boards, or one giant board covering the entire surface. It’s up to you, and don’t be afraid to get a little creative. In this example, the 18-inch boards get attached to the front, top, and rear while the 16-inch boards go on the sides.

Drilling pilot holes will extend the work time required for this step, but it helps ensure the wood doesn’t crack and split when you insert the screws. When finished, all the basic work is done.

In the background, you can see a bench with some holes I cut out to make it easier to carry.

I recommend sanding the entire bench to smooth out any rough edges. If you have a jig saw you can cut holes for carrying as you can see in the photo above.

Phase 4: Finishing

Now that you’ve constructed the basic bench, the sky is your only limit in terms of how you want the final product to look. I like to use tea-staining, which is inexpensive, non-toxic, and gives a lovely aged look to the wood. The results are inconsistent though, so you might prefer actual wood stain or even paint.

This is your chance to customize the look of your bench, so have fun and get creative!

Your clients will appreciate having a nice place to sit, stand, or otherwise pose when you are taking their pictures. And as a bonus, they’ll be doubly impressed when you tell them you made the bench all by yourself!

We’d love to see some pictures of your bench once you build it. Please share with us in the comments below.

 

The post How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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DJI AirSense will add aircraft detection to DJI drones starting next year

23 May

This morning, DJI hosted a panel of experts in the aviation field, including the Federal Aviation Administration’s (FAA) Jay Merkel and AUVSI’s Tracy Lamb, to discuss the implementation of airplane and helicopter detectors in its new consumer drones starting January 1, 2020. Every drone model weighing over 250 grams will have AirSense Automatic Dependent Surveillance-Broadcast (ADS-B) receivers installed.

AirSense technology, which is a product of over 30,000 hours of development efforts by DJI engineers on all security measures, works by receiving ADS-B signals from nearby airplanes and helicopters. It allows drone pilots to detect and avoid traditional aircraft nearby. ‘I was an F-18 pilot years ago, and when you’re going that fast, it’s really hard to see anything. … ADS-B is certainly one of those things that for all pilots, and for controllers as well, becomes a situational awareness tool’ said Houston Mills of UPS Airlines, at the panel.

AirSense is currently embedded in some of DJI’s enterprise-level drones including the Mavic 2 Enterprise. The manufacturer now aims to make the same level of safety and security available to consumers. Instead of relying on sound or sight, ADS-B can identify planes and helicopters from miles away, and display the location on the screen of the remote.

Along with the announcement, DJI has released a comprehensive 37-page ‘Elevating Safety’ white paper outlining efforts they have taken to ensure that drones and their operators remain compliant. One significant burden to innovation in improving safety measures has been the media’s numerous inaccurate portrayals of reckless drone use. Most claims, including the incidents at Gatwick and Newark airports, are still unfounded.

DJI stands by the fact that existing data on drone safety is inaccurate. However, they understand they need to continually focus on research, development, education, and advocacy for solutions that will improve safety. They’ve outlined their intentions with the following 10 points:

1. DJI will install ADS-B receivers in all new drones above 250 grams.
2. DJI will develop a new automatic warning for drone pilots flying at extended distances.
3. DJI will establish an internal Safety Standards Group to meet regulatory and customer expectations.
4. Aviation industry groups must develop standards for reporting drone incidents.
5. All drone manufacturers should install geofencing and remote identification.
6. Governments must require remote identification.
7. Governments must require a user-friendly knowledge test for new drone pilots.
8. Governments must clearly designate sensitive restriction areas.
9. Local authorities must be allowed to respond to drone threats that are clear and serious.
10. Governments must increase enforcement of laws against unsafe drone operation.

These 10 steps are DJI’s proactive plan for addressing the continual growth in the drone industry. It divides responsibility between the government, remote pilots, and the company to ensure drones continue to safely integrate into airspace.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Olympus’s TG-6 waterproof camera is a modest update to its predecessor

22 May

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Olympus’s Tough TG-5 is one of our favorite underwater cameras, and the company today introduced its replacement, the TG-6. The TG-6 is a modest update to its predecessor, with the majority of its changes related to macro and underwater shooting. The company also added an anti-reflective coating to the glass surrounding the sensor, to reduce flare and ghosting.

The TG-6 has the same design as its predecessor, though it’s LCD now has 1.04 million dots, compared to 460k dots on the TG-5. Unfortunately, we found that the display scratches just as easily as before: disappointing for a ‘tough’ camera. Its rugged credentials are unchanged: The camera is waterproof to 15m (50ft), shockproof from 2.4m (7ft), crushproof to 100kgf (220lbf) and freezeproof to -10°C/+14°F.

As before, the TG-6 has a GPS with a compass, manometer, thermometer and accelerometer. A tracking feature associates the location a photo with the data captured with above sensors (via an app).

The TG-5’s microscope mode has been improved upon on the TG-6, with the ability to enlarge the subject by over 44x while at its minimum focus distance of 1cm (0.2″). Microscope mode can be now used in program and aperture priority mode, unlike on the TG-5. The camera offers both focus stacking (now with a selectable range of shots) and focus bracketing.

The complete underwater system for the TG-6

On the underwater side, there are new underwater microscope modes, along with new white balance options for shallow, midrange and deep water shooting. As before, the TG-6 has a full system of underwater accessories available, including housings and flashes.

Accessories for the TG-6

Lastly, there’s accessories. The TG-6 continues to support the LG-1 light guide (ring light) and FD-1 flash diffuser, as well as the TCON-01 1.7x telephoto and FCON-T01 fisheye conversion lenses. New accessories include the FCON-T02 fisheye lens, which can switch from circular to diagonal views by adjusting the focal length. There’s also a new lens barrier (LB-T01) that you’d normally find on a point-and-shoot camera.

The Tough TG-6 will be available in your choice of red or black, and will be priced at $ 449 when it ships in late June. Prices for the numerous accessories are listed in the press release below.

Sample gallery

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Press Release:

OLYMPUS TOUGH TG-6® RUGGED COMPACT DIGITAL CAMERA

Perfect for Outdoor Shooting with Tough Performance, Macro Functions and a Newly Developed Circular Fisheye Converter

CENTER VALLEY, Pa., May 22, 2019 – Olympus expands rugged and underwater shooting capabilities with the new Olympus Tough TG-6, a compact digital camera with reliable Tough performance for shooting anytime and anywhere. It features a blazing fast, wide-angle f/2.01 lens, back-lit high-speed CMOS sensor and powerful TruePicTM VIII image processor, providing the ability to capture stills and video with brilliant color and stunning detail. The Tough TG-6 is waterproof to a depth of 50 feet (15m)2, dustproof3, shockproof to 7 feet (2.4m)4, crushproof to 100 kgf5, freezeproof to 14oF (-10°C)6, and features a dual-pane protective glass construction for superb anti-fogging performance. Its Variable Macro System goes beyond the limits of the eye with ultra-close-up shooting up to 1cm from the front of the lens7. Full- featured underwater shooting modes and a new fisheye converter lens that supports circular fisheye photography are available for the Tough TG-6, along with a full lineup of other accessories for expanded shooting possibilities, making this truly the strongest field camera available.

Tough Performance for Shooting Anytime

Sealing throughout the entire camera body and double-lock construction on the camera battery cover are designed to provide waterproof performance to a depth of 50 feet for underwater shooting and excellent dustproof capabilities for use in dirty and dusty locations. Its floating construction protects the inside of the camera, clearing drop tests up to seven feet, and the reinforced body withstands loads up to 100 kgf. The Tough TG-6 is also freezeproof down to 14oF, and the nitrogen-filled, hermetically sealed dual-pane protective glass construction prevents condensation and fogging for reliable shooting even in locations with severe temperature fluctuations.

High-Quality Images

The Olympus Tough TG-6 is equipped with a high resolution, high-speed f/2.0 zoom lens and a high- speed back-lit CMOS image sensor, offering excellent high-sensitivity performance and allowing you to capture bright, richly detailed images in low-light settings, ideal for shooting fast moving subjects. Anti- reflective (AR) coating incorporated in the image sensor’s sealing glass minimizes ghosting and flares. The TruePicTM VIII image processor, found in the award-winning Olympus OM-D E-M1X® professional model, is featured on this model, reducing noise levels and improving resolution in low contrast areas. RAW data can be recorded and then edited in post-production using the Olympus Workspace image editing software.

Variable Macro System

Conquer macro photography and creatively capture intricate detail using any of the four shooting modes, opening a new world of macro shooting. This close-up shooting performance allows high-quality image capture of the microscopic world that the human eye cannot see. A closest focusing distance of 1cm is possible for close-up shots even in Program and Aperture modes for more flexible photography.

The Flash Diffuser FD-1 (sold separately) uses the in-camera flash to illuminate the subject, offering a significant increase in the amount of light. This increase in light allows for usage of lower ISO settings and faster shutter speeds, as well as an increased working distance. The FD-1 can also be utilized under water.

Microscope Mode

With Microscope Mode, users can capture high-quality, detailed images of tiny subjects that are difficult to see with the naked eye, such as the antennae and feet of insects, the veins of a leaf on a tree, snowflakes, etc. A maximum shooting magnification of 7x8 is possible when the optical zoom is set to the telephoto end and the subject is 1 cm away from the front of the lens, delivering magnified shots similar to using a microscope.

Microscope Control Mode

Switch display magnification ratios with the press of a single button similar to switching microscope objective lenses for observing and photographing subjects at 1x, 2x, and 4x. When the subject is 1 cm from the front of the lens while using this mode, the image on the rear LCD monitor can zoom in up to 44.4x.

Focus Stacking Mode9

Focus stacking mode captures multiple shots while automatically shifting the focus from the foreground to the background. Only the areas in focus are extracted and merged, resulting in a full pixel photo with a deep depth of focus. This is particularly effective for macro shooting when shots have a shallow depth of field and a narrow range of focus. Between 3 and 10 shots can be set on the Tough TG-6 so users can fine tune settings for different subjects and precision in their finished image.

Focus Bracketing Mode

With a single shot, this function captures up to 30 images while shifting the focus from the foreground to the background. Three levels of focal shift and number of shots can be selected to perfectly match the subject and shooting conditions. This feature is convenient for instantly setting the focal position when shooting flower petals or the wings of insects, etc.

The LED Light Guide, LG-1 (sold separately) uses the LED on the front of the camera to evenly illuminate the subject while the image is being taken. The LG-1 also assists with composing the image, acting as a constant light source to illuminate the subject.

Dive Deep Into Underwater Photography

To expand the possibilities of underwater shooting ever further, the Tough TG-6 is equipped with five underwater shooting modes optimized for various situations, allowing the user to capture sharp, colorful underwater photos at all depths. The popular Underwater White Balance mode now offers three options, providing appropriate color adjustment for deep water shooting. The new Fisheye Converter FCON-T02 (sold separately), for circular fisheye photography is now available, offering a versatile lineup of accessories to further expand shooting creativity.

Five Underwater Modes

  • Underwater Wide: Optimized for shooting in dim underwater conditions and capable of shooting in deeper water.

  • Underwater Snapshot: Records subjects using the natural lighting in pools and other shallow water for natural-looking photos.

  • Underwater Macro: Perfect for close-up shots of small subjects such as little fish.

  • Underwater Microscope: Captures even smaller subjects up to 1 cm from the front of the lens.

  • Underwater HDR: Dramatically recreates the scene without losing details in dark areas.

Three Underwater White Balance Modes10

  • Underwater Shallow: Recommended for use in water depths up to approximately 10 feet deep to improve the red tones that tend to occur in shallow water.

  • Underwater Mid-Range: Optimally tunes the color for general use in water from 10-50 feet deep.

  • Underwater Deep: For use with the new Underwater Case PT-059 (sold separately) in water deeper than 50 feet, particularly for improving the blue tones in photos.

Fisheye Converter, FCON-T02

The new Fisheye Converter FCON-T02 (sold separately) delivers both circular fisheye photography and diagonal fisheye photography via zooming control. It can function even underwater for zoomed-in shots. The Converter Adapter CLA-T01 (sold separately) is required to attach this lens. FCON-T02 is only compatible with the Tough TG-6.

Advanced Video Functions

The Olympus Tough TG-6 is equipped with Ultra HD 4K Movie, ideal for recording beautiful scenery in amazing detail. Full HD 120fps High-Speed Movie is also included to capture high quality split-second moments with playback in stunning slow motion.

Field Sensor System

The Olympus Tough TG-6 is equipped with a Field Sensor System, using tracking information obtained from various sensors in the camera to record data, including the GPS11, manometer, temperature sensor, and compass. Data can then be synced to photos and video and viewed in the free Olympus Image Track (OI.Track) smartphone app. Simply press the INFO button, even when the camera is off, to display data.

Pro Capture Mode

Never miss a shot! Pro Capture Mode shoots sequentially at 10 frames-per-second (fps) for 0.5 seconds before the shutter button is pressed fully, making it perfect for capturing shots where timing may be difficult, such as an insect in flight or a drop of liquid splashing.

High Definition LCD monitor

The new rear LCD monitor now features a 1.04 million-pixel high-definition resolution for improved visibility. The brightness and color saturation are optimally tuned for use outdoors.

Date Imprint

It is now possible to embed the date and time of capture into still images for convenience and reference later. Users can turn this feature on and off to best fit their needs.

Lens Barrier, LB-T01

The new lens barrier LB-T0112 protects the lens surface from scratches and dirt. The barrier opens and closes easily for smooth operation, even while wearing gloves.

Silicone Jacket, CSCH-127

This accessory protects the surface of the camera body from scratches. It also provides a solid grip on the camera when shooting during winter sports and water sports. LED Light Guide LG-1 and Flash Diffuser FD-1 can function with the silicone jacket attached to the camera.

Underwater Case, PT-05913

Designed exclusively for the Tough TG-6, this case can function down to a depth of 148 feet. The camera control dial is operable even when the camera is stored in the case for easy exposure compensation control underwater. Two external flash units for underwater photography (UFL-3) are compatible for multi- unit flash photography in a compact system.

Lithium Ion Battery Charger, UC-92

This new, compact battery charger can fully charge the Lithium Ion Battery LI-92B using a USB port in approximately 2 hours.

Pricing and Availability

The Olympus Tough TG-6 will be available in red and black beginning in late June 2019, with suggested retail prices of $ 449.99 USD and $ 579.99 CAD.

Accessory Pricing

PT-059 Underwater Housing: $ 299.99 USD; $ 329.99 CAD Lens Barrier LB-T01: $ 49.99 USD; $ 59.99 CAD
Flash Diffuser FD-1: $ 51.99 USD; $ 64.99 CAD
LED Light Guide LG-1: $ 40.99 USD; $ 40.99 CAD

Circular Fisheye Converter FCON-T02 & Adapter CLA-T01 Tough Pack Kit: $ 224.99 USD; $ 292.99 CAD Fisheye Converter FCON-T01 & Adapter CLA-T01 Tough Pack Kit: $ 139.98 USD; $ 139.98 CAD Teleconverter TCON-T01 & Adapter CLA-T01 Tough Pack Kit: $ 129.98 USD; $ 129.98 CAD
CLA-T01 Adapter: $ 19.99 USD; $ 19.99 CAD

Lens Cap LC-40.5 (fits on CLA-T01 Adapter): $ 7.49 USD; $ 9.99 CAD Lens Filter PRF-D40.5 PRO: $ 51.99 USD; $ 51.99 CAD

  1. At the wide-angle end of 25mm (35mm equivalent)
  2. Waterproof performance is JIS/IEC protection class 8 (IPX8) equivalent. All measurements are according to Olympus testing conditions, and do not guarantee protection from damage or malfunction under all conditions
  3. Dustproof performance is JIS/IEC protection class 6 (IP6X) equivalent. All measurements are according to Olympus testing conditions, and do not guarantee protection from damage or malfunction under all conditions.
  4. Compliant with MIL-STD810F. This model cleared drop tests under Olympus in-house testing conditions; however, Olympus does not guarantee protection from damage or malfunction under all conditions. Olympus in-house shockproof testing conditions: Drop height: 2.1 m, Drop surface: Plywood (lauan laminate), Drop orientation: 26 directions for each surface, each side, and each corner. Drop test was performed once for each direction.
  5. Kilogram force (kgf) is the unit for measuring force exerted on an object. All measurements are according to Olympus testing conditions, and do not guarantee protection from damage or malfunction under all conditions.
  6. The number of recordable still images is reduced at low temperatures.
  7. Super Macro setting required
  8. 35mm equivalent.
  9. Use of a tripod is recommended. Processing may take longer than usual.
  10. White balance can also be changed manually.
  11. GPS: Global Positioning System. To use GPS Assist data, information must be updated via the internet. A PC or smartphone with an internet connection is required. GPS Assist Data must be updated every 2 weeks. Depending on the country/region of use, different laws and regulations may be applicable regarding the use of the GPS function. Be sure to follow local laws and regulations.
  12. Cannot be used together with Silicone Jacket CSCH-127.
  13. The Field Sensor System will not operate properly when the camera is stored in the underwater case. Make sure to set the Log Lever to the off position when using the case. Use together with silica gel for best results.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Peak Design’s Travel Tripod is a re-imagination of one of photography’s basic tools

22 May

Peak Design is back at it again. This time, however, their crowdfunding campaign doesn’t involve a clever clip system or a new camera bag—it’s a tripod.

The Peak Design Travel Tripod has been eleven years in the making, according to Peak Design CEO Peter Dering. Tired of conventional tripod designs, Dering set out to rethink the tripod from the ground up, but following through on the dream would prove far more difficult than he imagined.

The goal of the Travel Tripod, which will come in both aluminum and carbon fiber variations, was to design a tripod that removed all of the empty, negative space found in conventional tripod designs, and they managed to achieve just that. DPReview was sent a pre-production sample to take product photos of for this article and as you can see in the images, not a single bit of space was wasted throughout the tripod’s design.

The legs are contoured to the triangular center column, the cams to unlock the legs are stacked and can all be opened at once, and the cleverly thought out ballhead fits inside the contours of the legs to fold up into a unit that’s no larger in diameter than a Nalgene water bottle and shorter than two Nalgenes stacked on top of one another. The aluminum and carbon fiber versions weigh 1554g (3.43lbs) and 1210g (2.67lbs), respectively. When packed, the tripod measures just 6.35cm (2.5in) in diameter and 39.37cm (15.5in).

The Peak Design tripod folded up next to a folded up Manfrotto 190XB with a trigger-style ballhead.

The head itself, which can support up to 9.1kg (20lbs) and reach a maximum height of 152.4cm (60in) with the legs and center column completely extended, uses a rotating dial around the edge to loosen and lock the head in position. Cameras are mounted onto the head using Peak Design’s Capture Clip mount and snap into place with a quick latch that’s secure on its own, but can also be locked using a secondary rotating dial.

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In addition to the tripod, the kit includes a Capture Camera Clip and dedicated carrying case that has a little pocket with an included hex key for tightening and loosening various elements of the tripod.

For a full run-down of the tripod and its specs, head on over to out our more thorough hands-on and to crowdfund the tripod, visit the Kickstarter campaign. A pledge of $ 289 will get you the aluminum version and a pledge of $ 479 will get you the carbon fiber version. The first tripods are expected to ship December 2019.


Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Honor 20 Pro launches with F1.4 aperture and dedicated macro camera

22 May

Huawei sub-brand Honor has launched its new flagship smartphone and, as rumored, the Honor 20 Pro is the first smartphone to come with an F1.4 aperture in its primary camera. But that’s not the only news. The new model also comes with a dedicated 2MP macro camera that has been optimized for image capture at a subject distance of only 1.5 inches (4cm) and uses a F2.2 aperture.

The primary camera features a 48MP Sony IMX586 1/2″ Quad-Bayer sensor that produces 12MP image output. The lens is optically stabilized.

The tele lens has an equivalent focal length of approximately 80mm and an F2.4 aperture. It also comes with OIS. Finally, there’s a 16MP ultra wide-angle camera with a 117-degree field of view and F2.2 aperture.

A AIS Super Night Mode captures several frames in quick succession, discard the blurry or otherwise unusable ones, and merges the rest into one high-quality low-light image. The 48MP AI Ultra Clarity Mode uses similar methods for additional detail in bright light.

The front camera offers a 32MP pixel count and is located inside a hole in the 6.26” 1080p+ LCD display. The device is powered by the same Kirin 980 chipset as the Huawei P30 Pro and comes with 8GB of RAM and 256GB storage. The 4,000mAh battery can be charged from flat to 50% in 30 minutes.

The Honor 20 Pro will be available soon at a price point that makes it look like an attractive alternative to some more established competitors. The device will cost you €600 ($ 670) in Europe. No pricing information for other regions has been released yet.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Godox announces redesigned X2T with Bluetooth and better handling

22 May

Chinese flash manufacturer Godox has released details of an updated trigger that will have a redesigned button layout, a larger display panel and Bluetooth to allow flashes to be controlled from a smartphone.

The Godox X2T has the same hotshoe for shoot-through flash as the X1T, but now has individual buttons for each flash group on the top panel to make selection and adjustment quicker and easier. The control dial has also been moved to the base of the unit, to make it accessible to the photographer’s left hand.

Other new features include a wider display panel with a new and clearer user interface, as well as a quick-lock for the foot instead of the old locking wheel. A scanning setting automatically detects the most secure channel, and Bluetooth support allows users to control and trigger their flash units using the GodoxPhoto app on Android and iOS smartphones and tablets.

As before, the trigger will be compatible with Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm, Olympus/Panasonic and Pentax cameras and their respective TTL systems. The X2T uses 2.4GH for a wireless control range of up to 100m, and can operate across 32 channels with 99 wireless ID settings. It has a USB socket for firmware updates and is powered by two AA batteries.

The company has yet to reveal pricing or when it intends to begin shipping, but you can find more information on the Godox website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: A curated collection of street photography from 1838 to 2019

22 May

YouTuber Guy Jones, who specializes in sharing historical images, footage, and audio, has uploaded a new video highlighting street photography from 1838 to 2019. The video provides viewers with a curated look at street photography from past generations, including images of New York City, London, Paris, Philadelphia, St. Louis, San Francisco, and other destinations.

According to a note on the video, all of the images have been remastered and color adjusted. A full list of audio accompanying the images can be found in the video’s description. Viewers interested in seeing other similar content can find a huge catalog of historical images through the Library of Congress website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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