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Archive for June, 2018

Long-term test: Domke F6 ‘Little Bit Smaller’ shoulder bag

13 Jun

Domke F-6 ‘Little Bit Smaller’ bag
$ 109 | Tiffen.com

The F-6 ‘Little Bit Smaller’ bag is a similar but more compact alternative to Domke’s iconic F-2.

Domke is among the most famous names in the pantheon of camera bag makers, and for good reason. The company makes some of the toughest and most practical bags on the market. Traditionally aimed at photojournalists, Domke’s bags are usually tough, somewhat on the heavy side, very accessible, and capable of accommodating a surprising amount of gear. I’ve been using an F-6 for about three years now, and it’s accompanied me on trips all over the world. This is my long-term test.

Key Features:

  • Weight: 740g (1.6lb) with second strap attached, including foam insert
  • Exterior dimensions: width: 11.5″ depth: 7″ height: 7.5″
  • Interior dimensions (main compartment): width: 11.25″, depth: 5.5″, height: 7″
  • One outer zipped pocket, one inner zipped pouch, one open rear pouch
  • Comes with one 4-compartment foam insert (removable)
  • Machine washable (non-Ballistic and non-RuggedWear versions only).

Design

The F-6, also known as the ‘Little Bit Smaller’ bag belongs to what Domke now calls the ‘Heritage’ range, and shares a lot of characteristics with the venerable (and a Little Bit Bigger) F-2. Most obvious are the F-6’s box-shaped main compartment and distinctive clamshell top, which is secured with two sturdy metal clips to the front of the bag. The bag isn’t really ever ‘closed’ as such (even with the clips secured, it’s still possible to slip your hand into the main compartment if you try hard enough) but this design has the advantage of allowing quick one-handed access to either end of the main compartment without fiddling with any zips.

A large front pocket is big enough for a small mirrorless or rangefinder camera, but is most useful for odds and ends like memory card wallets, snacks and spare batteries.

There are two zips on the F-6 for less often-accessed compartments: one on the large front pocket, and another one inside the top cover that secures a document pouch sewn into its underside. This pouch runs the full length of the top cover, and it’s perfect for instruction manuals, maps or a paperback book or two. Unlike the main compartment, prying fingers will struggle to find or get access to this compartment, so when I’m traveling this is usually where I’ll store my passport and wallet. I’m telling you that in confidence – please don’t spread it around.

The F-6’s main compartment is surprisingly roomy, and can comfortably fit a 2-camera, 3-lens outfit, along with extras like an iPad, and a flash or two.
With the foam insert removed, the F-6’s main compartment is basically box-shaped. The base is lightly padded, but I usually add a little extra foam padding just in case of accidents.

The F-6’s main compartment is deceptively capacious, and without the included foam inserts it can easily accommodate a full-size professional DSLR and standard zoom. That’s a lot of weight, though. Where the F-6 really shines is as a bag for smaller camera systems. With the foam insert added, I can fit two slim mirrorless or rangefinder bodies and up to three lenses inside without the F-6 feeling overloaded.

A full-height pouch on the back of the bag is large enough for a notebook, 9.7in iPad Pro, or a couple of paperbacks

Total storage space is augmented by the front pocket, which I generally use for batteries, rolls of film, memory card wallets and other odds and ends but which at a pinch could also house a small mirrorless or rangefinder camera body. A full-height pouch on the back of the bag is large enough for a notebook, 9.7in iPad Pro, or a couple of paperbacks.

While the clip-to-close design isn’t entirely secure, it has the advantage of allowing very easy access to the main compartment without needing to put the bag down.
The clips are easy to undo by feel, meaning you don’t need to take your eyes off the action to reach down and pull out a camera.

I was inspired to write this review after a recent trip back to the UK to visit family, during which the F-6 amply demonstrated its Tardis-like capacity. When I’m in transit, I tend to use the F-6 to store my most valuable and delicate gear, so that I can keep it all in one place on my lap or by my feet and I don’t have to worry about anything getting bumped around in overhead bins or baggage holds. Over the past couple of years I’ve abused my F-6 in almost every way possible, but I think my recent trip to Seattle to London was the high (or low, depending on how you look at it) point:

  • Fujifilm X100F with 28mm lens adapter (main compartment)
  • Leica M2 (body-only, tucked vertically into the foam insert)
  • Leica 35mm F2 (foam insert)
  • Leica 50mm F2 (foam insert)
  • reading glasses (foam insert)
  • Noise-cancelling headphones (sitting on top of main compartment)
  • Bag of nuts (roasted, salted, tucked alongside the headphones on the top of the main compartment)
  • Sunglasses (front pocket)
  • Memory card wallet (front pocket)
  • iPhone power adapter and 1m cable (front pocket)
  • Spare X100F battery (front pocket)
  • 4 rolls of film (front pocket)
  • Dramamine (front pocket)
  • 9.7in iPad Pro (inside Logitech keyboard case – rear pouch)
  • Paperback (Tom Collins’ ‘Another Roadside Attraction’, thanks for asking – rear pouch)
  • Passport (British – inner pouch)
  • Wallet (inner pouch)
  • Keys (inner pouch)

Clearly this is an insane amount of stuff to cram into a camera bag, but hopefully you get the point. The fact that the stitching has held up to several years of this kind of shameful abuse is also testament to the F-6’s strength and standard of construction, and I only wish I could say the same thing about my shoulder…

In use

In day to day use with a more realistic mirrorless or rangefinder kit, the F-6 is much more manageable. Of course, like all shoulder bags, it can still get pretty uncomfortable after a long day being carried around on my shoulder. The thick fabric strap is nicely textured and rubberized (so it never slips) but it’s unpadded and can dig painfully into my neck after a few hours. Alternating the bag’s position helps, and Domke also makes a dense foam shoulder pad for $ 30 which can be attached if you need a bit of extra padding. I have one and it works well, but it’s bulky and since I try not to overload my F-6 (despite what you might think from the list above) I prefer the way the bag handles without it.

Speaking of straps, the F-6 comes with a short, slim removable strap for hand-carrying the bag. It’s a nice idea, and does make the bag easier to pick up and carry if you’re traveling, but I find it gets in the way, so I relegated mine to the sock drawer – next to the shoulder pad.

A full-height pouch can be found on the rear of the F-6, which is perfect for an A4 notebook, or an iPad. This is my 9.7in iPad Pro, inside a Logitech keyboard case, pulled out diagonally for illustration.

In the years since I bought my F-6 I must have walked thousands of miles with it, but it’s held up remarkably well. The rubberized thread sewn into the strap is starting to break up in a couple of spot, the rear pouch has been buffed to a high shine against various (mostly blue, apparently) coats and jackets and there are small holes worn into its corners, but I reckon I’ll fall apart before the bag does. The more expensive F-6B (‘B’ stands for (B)allistic nylon) should theoretically hold up to the rigors of daily use even (B)etter. I should probably throw it into the washing machine at some point and re-wax the canvass but I’m not in any immediate rush.

Bottom line

Is the F-6 perfect? It is not. Although the main compartment has some padding on its base, it’s probably not enough to prevent damage to a heavy camera or lens if you drop the bag from any significant height. I’ve accessorized mine with extra padding from an old unused foam insert, and if I’m carrying a rangefinder, I usually add even more just to avoid any DIY roadside focus recalibration after a knock or fall.

If you’re outside in the wind and weather for several hours, you should expect water to make its way into the main compartment

The F-6 itself can take a fair amount of abuse, but there are limits. For one thing, it’s not particularly waterproof, even when brand new. The heavyweight waxed material does a good job of keeping light rain from getting in, but it soon gets soaked in heavier precipitation and if you’re outside in the wind and weather for several hours, you should expect water to make its way into the main compartment. Of course the older and more worn the canvass gets, the less effective it becomes at repelling moisture. On the plus side, it dries out remarkably quickly and doesn’t tend to retain dampness as long as you can air it out for a few hours.

This shot shows one of the F-6’s two main clips, which keep the top cover closed. As you can see by the chipped paint, they’ve already held up to a lot of heavy use. The downside of their sturdy metal construction is that they can scratch gear inside the bag if they’re allowed to dangle or fall into the main compartment.

I love the metal top cover clips for their sturdiness and the ease of access that they provide to the F-6’s main compartment, but because they’re metal they can (and do) scratch cameras and lenses if you let them flop into the main compartment when the cover is unsecured. Just another good reason to be strict about lens caps and protective filters.

I’ve already mentioned the included removable hand-strap – I don’t find it particularly useful, but as a keen cyclist, I wish the F-6 was compatible with a waist strap. When I’m riding my bike the F-6 flops around like mad. A waist strap would help keep it secure. It would also make me look a little bit like a bicycle messenger from the 1940s, and a little bit less like a man about to have a bicycle accident.

The final word

Despite these complaints, the F-6 is undoubtedly the most useful camera bag that I own for everyday photography. There are better options out there for large DSLR and multi-lens kits, but for day-to-day shooting with a compact system, the F-6 is hard to beat. With the foam insert removed, the F-6 is a useful bag for shopping, travel and daily use, too.

What we like:

  • Surprisingly capacious
  • Sturdy build, extra-tough stitching
  • Easy access to main compartment via clips
  • Large, secure inner pocket
  • Large, zipped front pocket
  • Well-sized rear pouch

What we don’t

  • Unpadded strap is uncomfortable when bag is fully loaded
  • Dangling clips can scratch gear if you’re not careful
  • Main compartment never entirely ‘secure’
  • Light padding on base of bag
  • Not waterproof

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Why I’m Downsizing from a Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 Lens to the f/4 Version

13 Jun

The Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 lens has been one of my most used since purchasing it several years ago. It’s a perfect lens for photographing either abstract, intimate or obviously, zoomed in landscapes. However, after borrowing the f/4 version from a local camera store during a trip to the Faroe Islands, I’ve decided to sell my current lens and replace it with the smaller and less expensive (almost $ 1000 less) f/4 version.

Before we get into why I’m replacing it, let’s look at why I went for the f/2.8 lens, to begin with:

Why I Purchased the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8

When I purchased my first full-frame camera several years ago (the Nikon D800), I started out with only one lens: the 16-35mm f/4. At the time, that was all I could afford and it was my main setup for close to a year.

By that time I had saved enough money to add another lens to my backpack (only having the 16-35mm was quite limiting so I wanted to add more range before heading out on a two-week journey to the US).

Why I'm Replacing my Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 Lens with the f/4 Version

Though there are several other brands to choose between, I had already made up my mind that I’d go for Nikon’s 70-200mm. The harder choice, however, was whether I should go for the f/2.8 or f/4.

After much back and forth, and long discussions with other photographers, I ended up with the f/2.8. Despite it being heavier and more expensive, it seemed like the right choice as it has a wider maximum aperture. Even though I’m a landscape photographer (I don’t do much wildlife or portraits, etc), I figured the wider aperture might come in handy and be more important than the weight.

I’d say this is the perfect lens if you’re photographing:

  • Wildlife
  • Portraits
  • Macro
  • Concerts/events
  • Under low light
Why I'm Replacing my Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 Lens with the f/4 Version

Captured with my 70-200mm f/2.8 lens.

Why I’m Changing to the f/4

When looking through the images I’ve shot with my 70-200mm, only a fraction of them were captured at f/2.8. In fact, the majority of those are images I captured at concerts or other events for a local magazine, which I very rarely do anymore.

The fact that I rarely use an aperture of f/2.8 on this lens, combined with the fact that I’m spending more time hiking and need a lighter backpack, made it an easy decision to replace my current lens with the lighter 70-200mm f/4 lens.

Why I'm Replacing my Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 Lens with the f/4 Version

Captured with the 70-200mm f/4 lens.

As a landscape photographer, it’s rare that you need f/2.8, especially for the type of images I tend to capture.  It’s more important for me to save weight (1540 gm/3.2 lbs versus 850 gm/1.9 lbs) since my backpack gets quite heavy when carrying all my lenses and cameras, a tripod, and other accessories.

Though I only tested the lens for 10 days, I found it’s not a sacrifice of much image quality by choosing the f/4 over the f/2.8. Both the sharpness and autofocus are just as good in the former.

These are the main benefits I’ve found with the 70-200mm f/4 lens:

  • It’s almost half the weight of the f/2.8.
  • It’s smaller in size and takes less space in the camera bag.
  • Autofocus is just as good (in fact it’s better than on my old f/2.8).
  • Sharpness is just as good.
  • It’s nearly half the price of the f/2.8 ($ 2800 versus $ 1400 roughly).

The Consequences of Changing

Of course, sacrificing one stop of light is something worth mentioning, as this does come with a few consequences. While it might not be a big difference between f/4 and f/5.6, there is a significant difference between f/2.8 and f/4, especially in low light situations.

Why I'm Replacing my Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 Lens with the f/4 Version

If you use a tripod for all of your photography and you avoid photographing wildlife and other scenarios with a shallow depth of field, the sacrifice is minimal and most likely not even notable. However, if you tend to photograph handheld in low light situations and enjoy photographing with a shallow DoF, you might want to reconsider replacing the f/2.8.

Here are some of the sacrifices you’ll make when changing from f/2.8 to f/4:

  • You won’t get as good of a “bokeh” effect nor achieve as much of a shallow depth of field.
  • You’ll need to increase the ISO instead of opening the aperture in low light situations.
  • You will be more dependant on a tripod in low light situations.

That being said,  this was an easy decision and one that I wish I’d made many years ago. Do you have a 70-200mm lens? Which version do you have and why?

The post Why I’m Downsizing from a Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 Lens to the f/4 Version appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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The SeaLife DC2000 is the best tough camera you’ve never heard of

13 Jun

Introduction

The SeaLife DC2000 in all its 1″-type sensor glory, and near its natural habitat.

I have an addiction to small cameras with big sensors. I’ve owned a Ricoh GR, original Fujifilm X100 and still have a Nikon Coolpix A knocking around. The EOS M100 and 22mm F2 combo also fits the bill.

But with just how good 1″-type sensors have gotten lately and how well they can balance the compactness and speed of their lenses, I’ve been left wondering: Where are all the fixed lens, 1″-sensor compacts? The Canon G7 X II and G9 X II, Sony RX100-series and Panasonic LX10 all have short zooms in front of their sensors, and most manage to have pretty wide maximum apertures. Just think about how fast and yet compact a (possibly collapsible) prime lens could be on one of these.

I deliberately underexposed this image to protect the highlights and brighten up the Raw file in post. With smaller-sensor rugged cameras, this would result in way more noise than you see here, even at base ISO.
ISO 125 | 1/800 sec | F1.8

Which brings us to the SeaLife DC2000, a compact camera with a 1″-type 20MP sensor and a 31mm-equivalent F1.8 prime lens in a waterproof, shockproof body. Despite being, on paper, pretty close to the ideal pocket point-and-shoot for me, it is most definitely not marketed toward me. It’s really targeted at the diving community, not land-based photography enthusiasts. It’s also not manufactured by one of the more ‘traditional’ camera companies, and as such, doesn’t benefit from the years of refinements and iterations that the likes of Canon and Nikon can take advantage of.

Key features

  • 20MP 1″-type BSI-CMOS sensor
  • 31mm-equivalent F1.8 lens
  • Without housing, waterproof to 18m/60ft and shockproof to 1.5m/5ft
  • Full manual and aperture controls
  • 80MB internal storage, microSD slot
  • 1080/60p video recording
  • 3.5in / 9cm close focus
  • Assortment of underwater and above-water scene modes
  • Battery rated to 200 shots (CIPA)

I’ve been carrying the SeaLife DC2000 around with me over the past couple of weeks and attempting to use it as I use my Nikon Coolpix A – a fun snapshot camera to have on me that takes better quality images than my smartphone. Here’s what I found.

Image quality

The sensor / lens combo on the SeaLife DC2000 is plenty sharp, with moiré apparent on the building in the distance.
Processed in Adobe Camera Raw | ISO 125 | 1/320 sec | F4

First of all, the DC2000’s image quality is pretty darn good. With what is likely the same sensor as a Sony RX100 III, you can expect good dynamic range and low light performance, particularly if you shoot Raw. The JPEGs out of the camera are solidly above-average with pleasing color most of the time, but sharpening and noise reduction are a little aggressive (no real surprise there). White balance strays a bit to the cool side, but whether you like that or not is really a matter of personal taste.

The lens is a great performer at all apertures

One criticism I have is that the tone curve applied to JPEGs can result in highlights that are a little abruptly clipped; it doesn’t happen all the time, but I was happy to have Raw files to play with to smooth the highlights out when this happened. Though there are an abundance of scene modes (I almost exclusively shot with it in Program Auto or Aperture Priority), it’d be nice to see some JPEG fine-tuning adjustments on future models.

I don’t mind some intentional lens flare, but those sensitive to it will wish for a hood as the DC2000 can lose contrast with bright light sources near the edges of the frame. That said, despite having a flat glass protective element in front of the lens, flare is reasonably well-controlled.
Processed in Adobe Camara Raw | ISO 125 | 1/1000 sec | F5.6

I have to say I’m impressed with the lens on the DC2000. It’s a good performer at all apertures, is more than sharp enough edge-to-edge and even makes some decent sunstars. I just didn’t expect this sort of quality from such a compact lens in a small waterproof body, and it’s nice to be pleasantly surprised here. That said, there can be some green and purple fringing (lateral chromatic aberration) on high-contrast edges (see the image of the backlit trees earlier on), particularly if you’re shooting backlit subjects and brightening in post. There’s no profiles to correct this automatically in Adobe Camera Raw, but it’s easily taken care of manually with a few sliders.

In use

The 1″-type sensor really makes a difference when the ISO value climbs.
Processed in Adobe Camera Raw | ISO 1600 | 1/125 sec | F1.8

Alright, so the images out of the DC2000 are pretty darn good. But what’s it like to use?

It’s a mixed bag. As you’d expect from a rugged waterproof camera, build quality is exceptional. The camera feels dense and solid, and though most buttons feel a bit mushy (a side-effect of the sealing no doubt), the shutter button has great feedback and an easy-to-feel distinction between the focus half-press and a full press to capture an image. The mode dial is likewise better-feeling than I expected.

The controls, though, are downright strange if you’ve ever used a digital camera from one of the more established manufacturers.

While the actual controls take some getting used-to, the layout is at least familiar.

When browsing your captured images in playback, you go back by hitting ‘up’ on the four way controller, and forward by hitting ‘down.’* You will forget this, even after shooting with the camera for several weeks, and you will occasionally hit ‘left’ to go back. This will rotate your image 90 degrees counter-clockwise. You will then curse under your breath as you prepare yourself to hit that same mushy button three more times to turn the photo the right way around, with each press being followed by a pronounced delay if you’ve been shooting Raw files. There’s also no way that I can find to view your shooting settings in playback.

However, once you enable the ‘delete’ function for eliminating single or multiple images, ‘left’ and ‘right’ on the directional pad become the method for browsing images.

The controls are downright strange

As far as the Raw files go, they’re great to process but frustrating to capture. With around five full seconds required for the camera to write the huge 40MB files to the microSD card, this is not your next ‘caught moment’ burst camera. My old Coolpix A positively smokes the DC2000 in terms of interface and shooting responsiveness, regardless of whether I’m shooting JPEGs or Raws.

A macro mode helps you get up-close-and-personal with your subjects.
Out-of-camera JPEG | ISO 125 | 1/1000 sec | F4.5

There’s also a wireless button that does absolutely nothing most of the time. Only after you’ve established a connection to your smart device with the ‘Link 123 Plus’ app does the wireless button bring up a menu option to automatically send each image to your phone. You can’t reassign it. I just downloaded my files from the card at the end of the day.

Lastly, when you go to change exposure parameters, you must press the ‘OK’ button before you can then adjust them by pressing up/down on the four way controller. Curiously, they work the opposite way I would expect, though, with ‘up’ lengthening the shutter speed and widening the aperture. You get used to it, but there’s still a bit of a disconnect there.

Some of this should be qualified, though, that simply putting the camera into ‘P’ or Auto modes gives generally good results for casual shooting (much of the gallery was shot this way). Unfortunately, if you’re hoping to fire off a quick shot or two to check settings (or if you’re underwater, check framing), this does little to mitigate the lag if you’re capturing Raw files.

Should you buy one?

This is a tough one. I’m absolutely in love with the idea of this camera, but am having a hard time rationalizing purchasing one.

Out-of-camera JPEG | ISO 125 | 1/800 sec | F5

If you’re in the market for a tough camera, like the Olympus TG-5 (a perennial staff favorite), the SeaLife DC2000 will absolutely reward you with higher-quality images if you can live without the zoom. It’s a great beach or vacation camera that can stand up to a fair amount of abuse. Power-on is quick, and you can also take an image quickly after startup. And then you’ll have to wait five seconds before the next image if you’re shooting Raw.

I can’t help but wonder how wide an aperture they could give this sort of prime lens if it were retractable and could forego the environmental sealing. That said, the SeaLife files stand up pretty well to those from my Nikon, and because of that sealing, I’ll never get dust on the sensor (this is an ongoing battle I have with retractable-lens cameras that I always seem to be on the losing side of).

I’m going to keep hoping and praying for one of the established manufacturers to make something that can approach the philosophy of the DC2000, but with greater responsiveness and more modern controls (though it’s possible SeaLife could address some of my qualms with a firmware update). If you can live with the operational quirks, it’s easy to recommend the DC2000 on the merits of its image and build quality. And of course there’s something to be said for the camera that’s always with you to also be able to take a knock or two.

Sample gallery

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*Our Senior Editor Barney Britton was kind enough to educate me on early Nikon digital bodies, such as the D1, which also have this control philosophy. Without going into detail, I’ll say that was before my time as a photographer.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Instant Magny 35 is a film back that turns SLRs and rangefinders into instant cameras

13 Jun

NINM Labs has launched a Kickstarter campaign for Instant Magny 35, a film back that transforms rangefinders and 135 SLR cameras into instant film cameras. The film back supports Fujifilm Instax Square film and doesn’t require any camera modifications. The instant film back is described as ideal for rangefinders and SLRs from Pentax, Leica, Olympus, Canon, and Nikon.

The Instant Magny 35 film back replaces the original camera back, featuring a total of three attachable components. Once connected, the camera with instant film attachment can be used normally. According to NINM Labs, Magny features an aluminum lens barrel, enlarging optics film back, and an ejection unit.

Features include a built-in dark-slide, on-off switch to prevent accidental shots, automatic film feed, a film ejection button, and an LED film counter. The film back is powered by four AAA batteries. Without the batteries or film, the Instant Magny 35 weighs about 485 grams / 1lbs.

NINM Labs is seeking about $ 50,000 on Kickstarter, where a single Instant Magny is offered for pledges that start at 778 HK$ / $ 99 USD.

Via: DIY Photography

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Lowepro introduces FreeLine BP 350 AW with all-new QuickShelf technology

13 Jun

Camera bag manufacturer Lowepro has launched the FreeLine BP 350 AW, an all new camera backpack for mirrorless and DSLR kits that features the all-new QuickShelf technology.

On the outside, the bag doesn’t appear much different than Lowepro’s other offerings. The bag is constructed of a ‘high-grade Carbonate Coated Nylon 66 exterior’ with ‘weather proof YKK zippers and robust exterior attachments featuring premium metal clips.’ If the weather-resistant fabric isn’t enough to protect your gear in harsh weather, Lowepro also includes a matching All Weather AW Cover.

Like all good things, it’s what on the inside that counts. This is the first bag from Lowepro to feature its new QuickShelf technology. According to Lowepro, QuickShelf is an ‘adaptive interior divider system [that] unfolds into 3-tier shelf or folds flat to remove for open interior space.’ In addition to the three tiers, pop-in lateral dividers and an additional gearbox help further divy up the space so you can better organize your camera kit as you see fit. Two easy-access side pockets with additional storage serve as a quick way to get to your gear, even while the backpack is still on your shoulders.

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According to Lowepro, the FreeLine BP 350 AW can hold a full-frame DSLR alongside a mounted 70-200mm F2.8 lens, as well as a drone and other lenses or accessories. They don’t show any mirrorless-only kits in the photos, but from the looks of it, it could easily hold a pair of full-frame mirrorless cameras and a few lenses.

The FreeLine BP 350 AW also features Lowepro’s trademarked CradleFit laptop compartment that can fit up to a 15″ laptop and an ActivZone Back Panel for more comfort when carrying a lot of gear.

The FreeLine BP 350 AW is available now for $ 260.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Really Right Stuff updates its entire tripod line-up with new features, better ergonomics

12 Jun

Tripod manufacturer Really Right Stuff has released updates to its entire product line. The company, which recently moved its operations from California to Utah, has revamped all 17 of its tripods, with improved components and features from top to bottom.

Like all of its previous tripods, each Really Right Stuff tripod is hand-assembled in the United States. The ‘Mark 2’ versions include both ergonomic and feature changes compared to the original versions.

One of the most notable changes is the addition of multiple 1/4″-20 sockets around the base of the tripod. These additional sockets provide more options for attaching accessories, such as Really Right Stuff’s phone mount and optional carry strap.

Speaking of attaching stuff to the tripod, Really Right Stuff has also added a weight hook to the underside of all 17 tripods. This not only gives you a convenient place to store your bag, but also acts as a ballast to keep your frames steady in windy environments.

The legs of the tripods now have sealed twist locks for extending and retracting the legs during use. Really right Stuff says ‘the new sealed twist lock minimizes the amount of contaminants, such as sand and grit, that gets caught inside the twist locks.’

Computer rendering showing the internal structure of Really Right Stuff’s new sealed twist lock.

Also, opening and closing of the legs should take less effort due to an added vented clevis. Really Right Stuff notes that the added air vents ‘prevent pressure gradients from building up, allowing smoother leg extraction and collapse.’ To show just how much thought went into what seems like such a small detail, Really Right Stuff explains how the ‘inward-facing vents also ensure air flow is directed towards the center of the tripod and away from mounted lens elements.’

The new tripods are also designed with interchangeable feet, which can be swapped out to one of the three options Really Right Stuff offers.

Lastly, the Mark 2 version of the tripods now feature an updated Sure Grip that uses the same hex screws as Really Right Stuff’s L-plates. So, if you’re shooting with a lot of Really Right Stuff gear, you’ll now only need to carry around a single tool.

To view more information on the second-generation tripods, head on over to Really Right Stuff’s announcement page. B&H is now taking pre-orders for the Mark 2 tripods, which start at $ 500.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Technical Camera is an iPhone camera app for advanced users

12 Jun

Dire Studio today launched Technical Camera, an iPhone app aimed at mobile still photographers who prefer manual control over auto modes, along with artificial intelligence and a range of interesting features.

The app offers a highly customizable interface, with manual exposure and focus, compensation and locks, focus peaking, and fully configurable auto ISO. The Smart Function Keys feature lets you customize the function of on-screen buttons and you can set the direction of the virtual dials in the user interface.

Advanced users will also appreciate the ability to shoot in Adobe RGB color space and – as far as we are aware – the ability to define image settings for different albums and shoot directly into these albums is unique. For example, you can set a small image size and turn geotagging off for images saved into a “Notes” folder, but toggle Raw capture and maximum image quality for your “Prints” folder.

If you are using a dual-camera iPhone the Framing Previsor feature should be useful as well. It allows you to preview the tele camera’s angle of view on the wide-angle camera’s live view image, giving you a direct comparison between the two lens options. In addition there are highlight and shadow clipping alerts and a range of grids to choose from.

Lastly, Technical Camera also looks like an interesting app for the users of super-wide-angle accessory lenses. The app can correct the distortion of a number of popular lenses and also offers basic corrections for non-supported lenses. More information and a list of all supported lenses can be found on the Technical Camera website.

The app is compatible with newer Apple devices running iOS 10.3 or later and can be downloaded now from the App Store for $ 6.99.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector

12 Jun

In this article, I’ll give the virtues and benefits of shooting simply, with only one light and a reflector.

Lighting is often perceived as a complicated beast, but does it have to be? Sure, in terms of technical aspects, there’s an awful lot to learn before you can truly master lighting. There are also plenty of techniques that involve numerous light sources at various power outputs, rigged together with any number of modifiers.

But are these necessary? If you want to learn every aspect of lighting inside and out, then the answer is yes. However, when you are a beginner, I would argue that it’s far too easy to get bogged down in those complications when in reality, you could conceivably go an entire photographic career without touching them.

One light

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - b/w portrait of a lady

With a single light source and a reflector for fill, you have enough creative options in terms of lighting that you could go an entire lifetime with nothing more and still fill a diverse and varied portfolio. Technically the reflector is a second light source if you want to get into that, but it’ll be referred to as a reflector for our purposes here.

You may not want to and it’s more than likely that once you’ve got the basics of lighting down, you’ll want to dive deeper and deeper until you get to those ultra complicated set-ups, but it is possible. One light set-ups can give you both dramatic, shadowy photos which ooze mood as well as bright, cleanly lit images with plenty of detail throughout.

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - 6 images of portraits of ladies

On top of that, there’s only one light to set up, only one light to modify and only one light to meter. If you’re working with limited time, say 20 minutes to set up, take a few shots and get out of there.

Four, five and six light set-ups just aren’t going to be an option. Of course, it’s also a whole lot easier to lug around one light then it is to take five.

Terms you need to know

This article will cover examples that are based in a studio where all ambient light is cut out (with one exception) and bounce is controlled through light placement or flags. As such, the light and the reflector are the only things lighting the images and each has its own respective role.

Key Light – The key light is your main light source. In these instances, it’s the actual strobe. It could just as easily be any other type of light source such as a window or a street light. This is the main light that you will be shaping your subject with.

Fill Light – In these examples, the fill light is the job of the reflector. When placed opposite the key light, the reflector bounces light back onto your subject and fills in the shadows. This helps to reduce contrast and also tends to lead to more flattering images of human subjects. A fill light does not have to be a reflector. Again, it could be any light source that acts independently of your key light to fill in shadows on your subject.

Reflector

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - studio setup with one light and a reflection

In all of these examples (except one that’s annotated), the reflector used is a large, cheap 5-in-1 reflector. You can buy one of these from just about anywhere that sells photo equipment for around $ 20 or less. Sure, there are expensive versions, but in my experience, they’re not worth the extra money. Get a good sized (32″ or 42″) cheap one and take it everywhere. Don’t be too precious with it and let it get dirty, battered and warped through use. They’re easily replaced.

If you don’t want to buy one, reflectors are pretty easy to make. White foamcore, posterboard, cardboard painted white, or a styrofoam insulation are all easily turned into reflectors.

Modifiers

Since the specific focus of this article is portraits, all of the modifiers used range from fairly big to huge. This is so that the light was as soft and flattering as possible. You can absolutely use a single hard light source with a reflector, so don’t consider the absence of examples of hard light here to be some kind of rule against it.

Example 1

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - color portrait of a lady

This shot is about as simple as it gets. The subject was placed a few feet from the background. The light source was a 5-foot octabox which was placed at forty-five degrees from the subject. The distance of the light was determined by watching how the modeling light fell on the subject and where the catchlights were in her eyes. It ended up about five feet away.

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - studio setup behind the scenes shot

Because the octabox is quite a big modifier, it would have been possible to get away without using a reflector. The soft light the large modifier produces would wrap around the subject in a pleasing way. It also means that the subject could turn and face any direction she wanted for posing.

Regardless, I still chose to add a reflector to bring up the shadow side. It was placed as close to the subject as possible so as not to interfere with composition.

Example 2

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - dark moody portrait

Much like the first example, this image was created with the light source at a 45-degree angle to the subject. This time, the modifier was a mid-sized 2×3′ softbox.

To get the softest quality of light, it was placed as close as possible to the model without interfering with image composition. There are few things as annoying as having to retouch the corner of a softbox or a beauty dish out of every frame.

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector- lighting setup

This time, the reflector was turned slightly away from the light source. This was because I didn’t want the full surface area of the reflector to be filling in the scene as I wanted to retain some of the dramatic lighting that the single smallish light source provided.

Example 3

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - two images of a girl in studio

This is exactly the same set up as the previous example, all that changed here was the modifier.

The softbox was exchanged for a beauty dish to increase contrast and add drama. The reflector was turned slightly so that it had maximum impact on the shadow side.

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - lighting setup in the studio

Example 4

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - b/w images in the studio

To really take advantage of the contrasty lighting possible with one light, I opted for a large, gridded beauty dish in this example. Again, placed at forty-five degrees (notice a pattern here?), the light fall-off is much more abrupt than here, as compared with the bigger softboxes.

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - dramatic studio setup

At 120 cm, this particular beauty dish is quite a bit larger than normal. As such, it is still quite soft, with a bit more wraparound than its smaller, more normal sized siblings.

A silver reflector was added to bring up the shadow side of the subject in order to ensure separation from the background and to keep the shadows from becoming pure black.

Example 5

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - lighter portrait of a girl

In a previous article, I wrote that you may very well never use a gold reflector. I’ve been thinking about that a lot since I wrote it and endeavoured to do exactly that. Instead of using the gold side of a normal 5-in-1 reflector, I used a Westcott Omega reflector, on which the gold is far subtler and less intrusive, making it much, much more flattering for portraits.

The key light in this image was a five foot octobox. If you look at the catchlights, you will see two other light sources. To camera left, there was a wall of windows which was underexposed by a stop to act as fill. To camera right is the gold reflector.

By adding a single light source to the ambient light, you get an incredible amount of versatility of what you can achieve.

Example 6

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector - studio portrait

This image was created exactly the same way as the previous one with the same octabox and the same gold reflector. This time, however, the power output of the flash was turned up so that it killed the ambient light from the windows. The reflector was also placed slightly to the rear of the subject in order to bring detail back into her hair.

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector

Example 7

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector

One technique that I really love is to place the light source directly in front of the model (it’s okay to move it to the side a bit so that you can shoot past it) and as close as possible. With a single light, this can create some lovely, dramatic images. This was done with a large beauty dish.

The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector

The white reflector was placed flat and rested on the subject’s knees. This results in a makeshift clamshell technique, but instead of two lights, you’re only using one.

Wrap-up

I could go on and on and on about this. The point here is to remind you to never forsake the power of simplicity when it comes to lighting techniques.

Sure, those set-ups with half a dozen lights, three reflectors, nine flags, your neighbor’s dog and a Swiss passport are great and you should absolutely explore them. Just be mindful that not every job has to rely on such complexities. Stripping things back to basics can, and does yield wonderful results.

Tips

Here are a few tips and trick to help you get the most out of your single one light source set-ups:

  • For portraiture, get the light in close. The larger the apparent light source, the softer the light. The softer the light, the more flattering it is for the subject.
  • Don’t just introduce a reflector blind and leave it there. Watch what it’s doing. Use modeling lights and learn to see the subtle differences the reflector creates. It’s hard at first, but with practice, you’ll start seeing the changes.
  • Meter with and without the reflector. As the reflector is acting as an independent light source, you can meter its exposure. If you want a specific ratio, or you know you want your fill two stops underexposed, meter it.
  • Don’t be afraid to turn the reflector at funny angles. If it’s a large reflector, in particular, you probably don’t want or need the whole surface area in use. Turn it any which way that provides the effect that you’re looking for.
  • You don’t shoot with off-camera lighting. So what? All of this applies to window light as well. A light source is a light source.
  • Don’t have a reflector? Buy one right now. Seriously. Stop what you’re doing and order one right now. They’re important and they’re not expensive. Godox sells one for less than $ 15.
  • Use these techniques on anything. I’m a portrait photographer, so the focus here has been portraits. But every single aspect covered here can be used when lighting any subject at all. Flowers? Check. Animals? Check. Food? Check.

Conclusion

In terms of variations on these techniques, this article hasn’t been anywhere near comprehensive. Honestly, using a single light and a reflector will give you an infinite variety of techniques to use in your photography.

When you’re starting out, I strongly encourage you to explore these as much as possible before moving on to more complicated set-ups as you may find, that most situations would benefit from the simplicity.

The post The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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€80K Oskar Barnack Award finalists announced

12 Jun

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Leica has released details of the twelve finalists for this year’s Leica Oskar Barnack Award, one of who will take the €35,000 (approx. $ 41,000) top prize. Organizers say that 2500 photographers submitted work to the competition this year, and that 110 countries are represented in the contest that looked for portfolios of 10-12 images demonstrating ‘the relationship between man and the environment in the most graphic form’.

The winner will be announced at a ceremony in Berlin in October, with the best portfolio earning the photographer a €25,000 cash prize as well as €10,000 of Leica M equipment. The best new photographer will win an M camera and lens kit of the same value along with €10,000, and the ten runner-ups will receive €2500.

Above you’ll see a single image from each of the portfolios, but to see all the images and to get a better sense of the issues and stories they cover, visit the Leica Oskar Barnack Awards website.

Press release

Leica Oskar Barnack Award 2018: The twelve finalists have been chosen

During European Month of Photography (EMOP, Berlin), the finalists’ project portfolios will be presented in a major exhibition in the ‘Neuen Schule für Fotografie Berlin’ from 10th to 31st October 2018

The twelve finalists of this year’s Leica Oskar Barnack Award (LOBA) have been chosen. The complete portfolios from the categories ‘Leica Oskar Barnack Award’ and ‘Leica Oskar Barnack Award Newcomer’ can now be viewed at www.leica-oskar-barnack-award.com

This year, around 2,500 photographers from a total of 110 different countries submitted entries to the LOBA competition.

This year, the jury was again impressed by the large number of entrants and the high quality of the portfolios entered in the competition. “With every new year of the competition, it is remarkable to see how intensely and creatively the entrants fulfil the thematic requirements of the LOBA. We have consciously maintained the theme of ‘the relationship between people and their environment’ since the first request for entries to the LOBA competition in 1979. Today, this theme remains as valid as it was in the past – in fact, we could even say that it is now more important than ever before”, says Karin Rehn-Kaufmann, Art Director & Chief Representative Leica Galleries International.

In addition to Karin Rehn-Kaufmann, the members of this year’s LOBA jury were:

  • Mark Lubell, Executive Director ICP – International Center of Photography (USA)
  • Markus Hartmann, Hartmann Projects (Germany)
  • Terje Abusdal, Photographer & LOBA winner 2017 (Norway)
  • Christian Wiesner, Artistic Director, Paris Photo (France)

The winners and finalists of the LOBA will be honoured in the course of a formal ceremony in Berlin on 10th October. The portfolios of all twelve finalists will then be on view from 10th to 31st October 2018 at a major exhibition in the ‘Neuen Schule für Fotografie’, Brunnenstrasse 188-190, 10119 Berlin. The LOBA Catalogue 2018, presenting the winners and finalists in detail with comprehensive portfolios and interview, will be published to accompany the exhibition.

With prizes amounting to a total cash value of around 80,000 euros, the LOBA is one of the industry’s most prestigious photographic competitions. The winner in the main category will be honoured with a cash prize of 25,000 euros and Leica M-System equipment (a camera and lens) valued at an additional 10,000 euros. The winner of the Newcomer Award will be honoured with a cash prize of 10,000 euros and will also be presented with a Leica rangefinder camera and lens. In addition to the two main categories, ten further submissions to the competition will each be honoured with prizes of 2,500 euros.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Samyang officially announces 24mm F2.8 AF lens, available in July for $400

12 Jun

Just a week after we came across leaked images of the lens, Samyang has unveiled its latest Sony autofocus lens, the AF 24mm F2.8 FE.

Samyang calls the lens ‘tiny but wide’—and rightly so. This lens weighs just 93g and measures 37mm from front to back without the hood or rear lens cap. The FE mount means it works with full-frame Sony cameras, including but not limited to the A9 and A7 IIII.

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The optical design of the lens is made up of 7 elements in 7 groups. Three of the optical elements are aspherical lenses and two are high-refractive lenses. The lens also features ‘ultra multi coating’, which helps minimize chromatic aberration and undesired light dispersion.

As the leaked images suggested, the lens features a minimum focusing distance of just 0.24m/0.79ft and has a rubberized focus ring for when you want to take things manual.

The Samyang AF 24mm F2.8, which retails under the brand name Rokinon in the United States, will be available in July for $ 400.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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