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Archive for May, 2017

This camera is designed to keep only the best photos

10 May

A new device called Trophy Camera uses artificial intelligence to compare its own photographs with the world’s most iconic images. During the comparison, Trophy Camera’s AI looks for specific characteristics common in photographs that have won World Press Photo yearly since 1955. Photos that show at least a 90-percent positive correlation with these notable characteristics are then uploaded to the camera’s own automated website. It’s a bit similar in spirit to Camera Restricta, a concept camera that uses GPS to prevent its user from taking clichéd photos.

Trophy Camera was created by media artist Dries Depoorter and PhD student/photographer Max Pinckers. Speaking to Co.design, Depoorter and Pinckers explain that their camera is a sort of commentary on what they see as the redundant photography produced by the ‘more automatized’ cameras that are becoming increasingly popular.

Elaborating on that, Pinckers said:

Press photography appears to be becoming a self-referential medium dominated by tropes, archetypes, and pop-culture references. What implications does this have on how we learn about the world through the images we are being shown? …By making this camera, we try to implicitly comment on the current status of photojournalism–which seems to be becoming more questionable in today’s visual landscape–along with the incredibly fast development of computer vision and the relevance of artificial intelligence in our time.

The camera itself is made from a Raspberry Pi Zero W, the computer’s Full HD camera module, a 128 x 32 monochrome OLED display, and a 5000mAh powerbank. Trophy Camera is currently part of an exhibition where photographs are taken; most of them are blurry and less than ‘notable,’ as shown on the camera’s automated website.

Via: Co.design

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Shoot Professional Portraits

10 May

Good weather is  when photographers like taking photos outdoors. A lot of photographers go to parks to take beautiful shots. But how can they stop taking casual photos and start creating professional portraits? This article gives you a lot of recommendations on how to create art photo portraits. Where to start? Of course, first you should begin planning your photo Continue Reading

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How to Crop to Exact Pixel Size Using Photoshop – with Phil Steele

10 May

If you’ve struggled to resize images to an exact pixel size watch this video tutorial by Phil Steele. He will show you exactly how to crop your images to fit a specific pixel size (like for a Facebook banner, etc.) using one quick step in Photoshop.

Crop to pixel size using Photoshop

Phil also mentioned that it’s a good idea to sharpen your image after cropping. Here is some help on that topic:

  • Photoshop Tip: Using the High Pass Filter to Sharpen Images
  • Smarter Sharpening in Photoshop using Adobe Camera Raw

If you want more Photoshop tutorials, try these:

  • How to Understand the Curves Tool in Photoshop
  • How to Use the Levels Tool in Photoshop
  • How to do Digital Blending in Photoshop to Create a Composite Photo
  • How to Create a Rim Light Effect Using Photoshop
  • How to Add a Sun Flare to Your Images Using Photoshop
  • How to do Non-Destructive Editing in Photoshop

Want more from Phil? Check out his Photoshop Basics course here. 

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Filmmaker and photographer collaborate to show natural beauty of ocean waves

10 May
 

How do you capture the beauty of an ocean wave with a single still image? You turn it into a cinemagraph, of course.

After discovering the potential of the Puppet Warp tool in Adobe effects, Dutch cinematographer Armand Dijcks started to experiment with creating ‘cinemagraphs’ of images of moving water, using Flixel Cinemagraph Pro to create the infinitely looping animations.

After perfecting the technique, Dijcks reached out to Australian ocean photographer Ray Collins for source images. Their collaboration, titled ‘The Infinite Now’ can be viewed above.

Read more about the process of creating ‘The Infinite Now’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Holy Housing: Stained Glass Walls & Ceiling Fill Cabin with Color & Light

10 May

[ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

The complete opposite of a minimalist Modernist glass-clad house, this rustic and homey backyard cabin exhibits hand-crafted details, rich dark wood and best of all: a gorgeous array of custom stained glass panels.

Built behind her home in Mohawk, New Jersey, this wonderful work of micro-architecture was constructed by glass artist and jewelry maker Neile Cooper as a private personal retreat.

Her Glass cabin is constructed from reused window frames and spare lumber, evidenced by all of the different shapes and sizes that add character and complexity to the structure. The gaps are filled in not with walls but rather with works of her own art, bringing the entire place to live with flowers, birds, stones, minerals and other natural subject materials.

While she is not in the business of building and selling small homes (alas), her jewelry work features similar themes as do many of her other stained glass creations.

Some of her unique wearable pieces use “real butterfly wings. The butterflies I use are farmed all over the world, and collected when naturally expired. They live out their short winged stage in a protected enclosure. Butterfly farming protects the natural habitat of the butterflies through conservation of the natural vegetation and leaves the wild butterfly population intact. I turn these fragile beauties into heirloom pieces, by pressing them in hand-cut glass and encasing them with a silver alloy. “

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[ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

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3 Useful Accessories for Landscape Photography

09 May

With photography being more popular than ever been before, it’s no surprise that there are also a whole bunch of accessories available on the market. Many of these are completely unnecessary items that you’ll most likely never need. In this article, I’ll introduce you to three accessories for landscape photography that you can manage without BUT will probably be used more than anything else. I wouldn’t be surprised if they end up as your favorite accessories that you can’t imagine photographing without.

L-Bracket

I’ve been using an L-Bracket for so long that I don’t even consider it to be an accessory anymore. For me, it’s become part of my equipment and I honestly don’t remember what my camera looks like without one.

An L-Bracket is a plate that is fastened to your camera body and serves as a connector between the tripod and the camera. The L-bracket is used instead of a regular quick release plate as it’s a much more flexible option. A clamp is placed on the tripod’s head to connect it with the camera.

3 Useful Accessories for Landscape Photography

Advantages of an L-Bracket

Now, you might be asking, “Why is that a better option than the regular plate which comes with the tripod?” Simply put, it eases your workflow.

Let’s say that you’re standing in the middle of a river and photographing a waterfall. You’re taking a horizontal image and you’ve got a good composition. After taking some images you realize that a vertical image will work better for that scene. With a regular plate, you’ll need to adjust your tripod head so the camera is tilted vertically. By doing this you most likely have to set up the composition all over again since you’re camera has now moved several inches to another side.

With an L-bracket, however, you avoid this problem. Simply disconnect the camera and clip it back into place vertically. In this case, the tripod hasn’t been moved which means you still have the same composition, just vertically instead.

Manfrotto L-bracket mounting a camera vertically on the tripod.

It wasn’t until I “lost” the clamp (connection between camera and tripod) in Iceland that I realized how valuable this tool has become in my workflow (I did find it again later at the airport – in my backpack…) Being able to seamlessly switch between a vertical and horizontal format has made this my favorite accessory. It does add some extra weight to your equipment but it will also protect the camera if you should be unlucky and drop it (still, I don’t recommend dropping it!)

Spirit Level

While this is a built-in function in many high-end DSLR cameras, a spirit level is an accessory that I strongly recommend one if you own a camera without the virtual horizon function.

Capturing images with a straight horizon can be difficult without a spirit level, especially when you’re photographing a scene that doesn’t have a defined horizon (in which case the grid view will help a lot). The spirit level is a handy little tool that will make this process much easier.

The spirit level is placed on the hot shoe (where you connect a flash to the camera). Many choose to leave it there at all times to avoid accidentally forgetting it at home. It’s not the most popular tool for those who don’t use a tripod since it’s placed on top of the camera. If you’re using a tripod, however, it can be essential.

Pre-Moistened Wipes

The last accessory I recommend is one that I have in my backpack at all times. In fact, I get worried if I only have one left.

Pre-moistened wipes are a landscape photographer’s best friend out in the field. We all know that creating beautiful images of landscapes often involve being outdoors in less than ideal weather. Either it’s windy, rainy or large waves are spraying you, having a couple pre-moistened wipes nearby will help you keep the lens clean at any time.

zeiss lens wipes - 3 Useful Accessories for Landscape Photography

Dust spots or dirt on the lens are constant battles and when it gets really bad it has the potential to ruin an image. (Unless you’re a post-processing ninja who’s willing to spend hours in Photoshop cleaning it up.)

I tend to always have a couple pre-moistened wipes plus a microfiber cloth in my pocket when I’m shooting out in the field. Most of the time, regular microfiber cloths will work great but in the most challenging conditions, you will want to use wet ones. This is especially true when photographing seascapes and the lens gets a thin layer of salt over it.

Zeiss lens cleaning wipes.

What are your faves?

These are some of the accessories I recommend for landscape photography. What are your favorites?

The post 3 Useful Accessories for Landscape Photography by Christian Hoiberg appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Create Abstract Images With a Soft-Focus Look Using Vaseline

09 May

As a rule, sticky substances and photography don’t mix. For a beloved camera, any liquid substance is a cause for concern. So naturally, I was surprised when I stumbled upon a neat trick used by glamor photographers back in the day. Actresses of the 1920s and 30s were photographed in the soft-focus style that photographers like Alfred Stieglitz and Edward Steichen developed.

Arnold Grethe and Victor Georg, photographers of Vanity Fair used hazy focus, diffusion filters, and other techniques to soften the portraits of actors, particularly women. This stylized softness was adopted by American filmmakers who before then had stuck to the sharpest focus possible. Doris Day, queen of romantic glamor portraiture was rumored to have insisted that photographers use diffusion filters to soften the focus of her photographs. And sometimes, in a pinch, photographers applied Vaseline or petroleum jelly to the lenses.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

An abstract photograph of yellow flowers, taken with Vaseline or petroleum jelly applied to a clear filter. The waves in the image reflect the density of the petroleum jelly applied to the lens.

How to make a soft-focus look with petroleum jelly

Creating a diffusion filter with petroleum jelly is actually quite simple, and a lot less messy than it sounds. First, raid your bathroom cupboard for some Vaseline. If you don’t already have a supply, you can purchase a tub from your local pharmacy.

Next, you’ll need to apply the jelly to your lens. There are two ways to go about this. One method is to first stretch a layer or two of cling wrap over the front of your lens, forming a barrier between the jelly and the lens. Fix the cling wrap with a rubber band and double check for holes in the plastic before you start applying the jelly. The potential risk of this method is that the plastic might rupture, causing the jelly to ooze all over your lens instead.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

Alternatively, if you have a spare clear filter handy, you could smear petroleum jelly all over that instead. This is a little simpler and you can remove the jelly with alcohol wipes later. Either way, DO NOT apply the petroleum jelly directly to your camera lens – it won’t end well.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

This abstract photograph of water was taken with only a thin level of petroleum jelly applied to the center of the lens filter.

Method of application

Start off by adding very small amounts of petroleum jelly to your lens or cling-wrap rig. You can apply the petroleum jelly with your finger, a brush, or some additional plastic for varying results. I’ve found that if you use your finger to apply the jelly, it can leave abrupt areas that affect the softness of the resulting image. Even in very small amounts, the softening effect of the petroleum jelly is quite pronounced. The more you add, the more abstracted the resulting photograph will be.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

The direction in which you apply the petroleum jelly also has a significant impact on the outcome of your photograph. Swiping the petroleum jelly in one direction could result in a completely different effect to that of jelly applied in the opposite direction. Experiment with different application methods by tracing different shapes into the lens with your finger.

I also pack some alcohol or glass wipes in case I want to remove a portion of the Vaseline for artistic purposes.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

The direction that the petroleum jelly is applied impacts how the resulting photograph will look. For this image, I applied streaks of petroleum jelly around the outer edges of the filter. I then used a tissue to clear the center area. This resulted in a clearer view of the subject in the center of the photograph, and streaks of color on the edges.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

A balance between abstraction and soft-focus, this effect was achieved with different densities of petroleum jelly distributed over the lens filter.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

For this effect I used my finger to draw zig-zag patterns in the layer of petroleum jelly on my filter. The resulting image is clearly shaped by the sharp edges I traced.

How to Create a Soft-Focus Look With Vaseline

An abstracted image of tree branches with diffused light peaking through the leaves.

When finished, carefully remove the cling wrap or filter. You can wipe the filter down with some alcohol wipes before stowing it away for later use.

Try it

Give this fun abstract soft-focus technique a try and share your results in the comments section below.

The post How to Create Abstract Images With a Soft-Focus Look Using Vaseline by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Digital Photography – Is it the Death of Prints?

09 May

Fotografía, foto, photograph…all ways of saying the same thing. But what is this thing that we all strive to become better at doing and in turn share with the world? There was a time not so long ago that the idea of producing a photograph involved a good bit of skill, patience, and hard work in darkrooms making prints.

The only way for one’s work to make its way in front of the eyes of someone else was for it to be printed. Today, the capability of communicating our images to others digitally has virtually become boundless. We are accomplishing the same old thing in decidedly new ways.

Digital Photography - Is it the Death of Prints?

So, are we slowly bearing witness to the death of prints entirely? With the advent of digital photography, the world of photo making changed. The medium morphed into something more translucent for the masses. The craft became less organic; less physical. Making photographs, dare I say, became “easy.”

That’s not to imply that there aren’t incredible advancements being made to the photographic art directly as a result of digital photography and sharing. What we’re talking about here is a possible disconnection between craft and craftsman (or craftswoman) which happened slowly.

Digital Photography - Is it the Death of Prints?

Perhaps that disconnection is an inevitable natural step as we evolve as a photographic culture. Have we entered into the stages of some type of weird photogenic altruism? Are we missing something by not printing our work?

To print or not to print?

As it turns out we likely are shorting ourselves by not regularly printing our photographs but not in the way we might think. Why go through the problems of manifesting prints when they are, in the eyes of many, unnecessary for most people who shoot with digital cameras.

Printing costs money whereas digital storage cost nothing or next to nothing. Physical prints can’t be “shared” or “liked” on social media. They aren’t something that we can readily copy and paste somehow. And therein lies their value. Not in a monetary sense even though art prints and portraits are still profitable for some. The worth of seeing your own photographic work printed comes from something else.

Digital Photography - Is it the Death of Prints?

Digital photography is wonderful in terms of production, cost, and convenience. But it very well may be that it also lessens our own perception of the power derived from photography, which causes us to stop short of the full scope of the art.

The finality of a print is something that gives us as photographers total control over the end product of all our hard work. The print represents a cathartic culmination of everything that we know about making an image and we present that image to world confidently. Prints don’t rely on screen resolution, color modes, or other variables that plague the viewing of our work digitally.

Digital Photography - Is it the Death of Prints?

How many times have you viewed a photo on your laptop, your cell phone, or your home computer screen only to notice that in fact, you are viewing three different versions of the same photo? If you’re like me, it causes no small amount of photographic anxiety.

The resurgence of prints?

Lately, there has been somewhat of a possible resurgence in the understanding about the benefits of physical photographic prints. Take the increased popularity of Instamatic cameras which hearken back to Lomography and Polaroid-type cameras. Even Leica and Fuji now manufacture cameras that make singular self-developing prints that are one-of-a-kind expressions. Fuji has taken it one step further by also developing a photo printer which wirelessly prints images from your cell phone onto its Fuji Instax instant film.

Digital Photography - Is it the Death of Prints?

The rise in the popularity of the instant medium could mean that we are yearning to slow down and be more committed to our photography. We have become accustomed to swiping right, scrolling up, and clicking over. Could it now be that we are beginning to favor the exclusivity that comes from possessing a print instead of a digital file? Only time will tell what direction the trend will follow.

Final thoughts….

Digital images and physical prints are the twin manifestations of the same artistic vision. Should you always print your work? Perhaps not always. Not every digital photo you make will always be worth a print…but that’s up to you.

Whether or not the digital camera revolution signaled the end of traditional prints is not the issue here. Instead, digital photography, even with all its outstanding contributions to the photographic arts, has possibly caused us to lose sight of the endgame. Sure, sharing your photos so easily with the world is great. It’s an important part of the art of photography. But at the same time, we shouldn’t stop there.

Digital Photography - Is it the Death of Prints?

Print your work from time to time. If you have an image that speaks to you just a little bit louder than the others, print it; hang it on your wall, sell it, share it with a photo gallery. Do something more meaningful than just looking at it on your screen.

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5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

09 May

So what exactly is composition in photography and why is it such a big deal? Composition is the way you intentionally arrange or put together the visual elements in an image, in and around your subject. The goal is to catch the viewer’s interest and keep it wandering around your photo. While some people have an innate ability to “see” and compose great images, it is a skill that can be taught.

Once you have identified your subject, here are a few useful precepts you can use when composing your next great image.

5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

1. Simplicity

Now that you have your subject in mind, the first question is how do you showcase it so there is no doubt of your intent? Keeping it simple is a good approach, as clutter can distract or even make it difficult to identify your focus. Most times in landscape photography, you have no control over what is around your subject. Here the use of lighting can reduce clutter, as the brighter areas of your photo will draw the eye in. You can also find an angle that helps you remove any

Most times in landscape photography, you have no control over what is around your subject. Here, the use of lighting can reduce clutter, as the brighter areas of your photo will draw the eye to them. You can also find an angle that helps you remove any strong elements that can detract the focus of the object. Thus use only what you consider necessary components. Good composition is as much about what you leave out as it is what you include.

Good composition is as much about what you leave out as it is what you include.

5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

2. Lines

You have no doubt heard the term lead-in lines – which are lines that direct the eye where you want it to go. This is a powerful tool in composition and can add a three-dimensional feel to your image. It does this by creating movement and can take away that static/flat feeling.

Lines can be literal (such as roads, streams, power lines, or fences) or implied (those that link different subjects in the frame). While diagonal lines are considered the strongest, you are not limited to it as experimenting with horizontal, vertical and converging lines can also be a source of inspiration.

5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

3. Oddities

If you have more than one subject in your image, choose an arrangement with an odd number of subjects (at least three e.g. three rocks or trees). Similarly, you can frame or surround your main subject with two objects to add visual stimulation. Odd numbers within a frame are said to be more pleasing and comforting to the eye.

5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

Side Note: In landscape photography, even numbers in the frame can seem less natural and informal, although an even number of subjects can produce symmetry. This is just something to keep in mind if you are breaking the “rule of odds”.

4. Interest

The easiest way to create interest is by having a foreground element in your shot which adds extra depth and dimension. Following on from the point above, you can feature a subject in the foreground, middle, and background, keeping them harmonious or having subjects that complement each other. Complementary subjects are those that have some association (e.g. they are the same color, similar appearance, or add to your story in some way). On the opposite side of this, you can use juxtaposition to create some tension in your image.

Other ways to add interest can be showing the scale of the scene by including an object or person or even by framing your photo in an interesting way.

5. Rules? What Rules?

Most composition articles start with the rule of thirds. This rule divides the image into thirds horizontally and vertically and suggests that you arrange your subject and other important elements near these division lines or at their intersections. The objective is to be more visually pleasing, as placing your subject in center of the frame stops the eye there and takes away from the movement you are trying to create and use to your advantage.

5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

It is a classic rule that is widely used with great results, so it is an excellent place to start as a beginner. However, what if you want to create a perfectly symmetrical image, such as a mountain with its perfect reflection in a lake? What if you have just as much interest in the sky as in the ground? An image like that will clearly not follow the rule of thirds, would it?

When you are out in the real world looking at the scene before you, these rules become more like handy suggestions. You need to allow your subject to influence your composition and not force it to conform to the “rules”. Therefore knowing the rules helps you decide when it is okay to break them, this is a skill you will develop over time.

5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography

Conclusion

Composition is important. To get a sense of how important, think about the impact of what you perceive as a really good or bad image. First, analyze the elements and how they work or do not work together. Identify the subject(s) of the photo and break it down into which compositional “rules” are present or broken. Are there lead-in lines? Is there a point of interest in the foreground or odd numbers present? Remember to move around your scenery and try different angles for your composition and in time you will know which rules to apply or ignore.

Please share any images you have created that use one or more of these tips, in the comments below.

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Low-Key Photography – Highlighting Darkness

09 May

Black is the new black. Low-key photography is a style where the main elements are darkness and negative space. It’s an excellent way to create a certain mood or to use contrast to highlight a subject, such as an item, gaze, or outline. These dark images might suggest a dark mood – loneliness or danger – but they don’t have to! Darkness can also be used to create a sense of safety or adventure, for instance.

You can create a low-key photograph in a variety of ways. It can be an underexposed or high-contrast photo; it can be made in the studio, at home, or outdoors; the subject matter can be anything from a landscape to a tiny detail. The main thing is to create something overwhelmingly dark. As darkness is the absence of light and light is the main ingredient of photography, this is a pretty simple recipe.

lo- key photography

Still, low-key photography might be a bit of a challenge for a complete beginner, as you need to know how to manually control the exposure of your pictures. But don’t let that discourage you from trying.

Technically speaking, you should make sure you don’t have a lot of light reaching the sensor, by using shutter speed, aperture, and ISO – the histogram should be heavily left-biased. Most of the time these kinds of photos can be made using a very low ISO, so always start with that if you can – that way, you can make sure your photos are as high-quality as possible.

low-key photography

Let’s use some examples to get an idea of how low-key photographs can be created. When you browse through the pictures, try to pinpoint the mood of each photograph and what role the darkness plays in it. Is it playing a supporting role – for instance, creating an opportunity for something else to be the focus? Or is the darkness the main point of the photograph?

Let’s begin!

Using flash or shooting in the studio

Using a flash might seem like a surprising suggestion for a style which is defined by a lack of light. Yet, it’s perhaps the easiest way to accomplish exactly what you want, since it gives you precise control over the amount of light that’s used (and where it falls). A black background helps, but isn’t required. The important thing is that there’s a large enough difference in light levels between the highlights and the rest of the image.

low-key photography

ISO 100, 1/125th, f/10.

This photo was made in a studio, with a black background, two flashes, and a good friend. Leather or another textured, dark material works really well for this kind of photography.

low-key photography

ISO 100, 1/125th, f/8.

To get this profile image, I used two flashes behind and slightly to the right of the model, one higher up and one lower down. This photo could have worked with most backgrounds, as long as the flashes are strong enough.

low-key photography

ISO 100, 1/125th, f/8.

To light a very specific area of this scene, I used a snoot over my flash.

Using natural light for low-key portraits

To get a low-key portrait in natural light, the most important thing you need to watch out for is that the light source is confined by something, such as a window or a door. You also want the spot where the subject is located to be much darker. The examples below show this in two different ways.

low-key photography

ISO 400, 15 seconds, f/7.1,

Calling this ”natural light” is perhaps a stretch, since it’s coming from inside a house at night. Still, the same applies; it’s a restricted light source shining into a relatively dark space. This time, the space is outdoors and the light source is indoors.

low-key photography

ISO 640, 1/200th, f/2.8.

Here, the subject is sitting in a room with daylight shining through a window with curtains. The background was actually a white wall, but since the light from outside wasn’t shining directly onto it, it was dark enough to turn black in this picture.

Using natural light – textures

Low-key photography is a great way to bring out the feature of a subject that is hard to notice when it’s well lit.

low-key photography

ISO 400, 1/60th, f/2.8.

I found a lot of subtlety in the whites of this wilting flower once I underexposed the shot. The background was very busy, but it became almost completely black once I exposed the shot the way I wanted. I added a slight vignette to darken some lighter spots in the corners of the shot. Another nice thing about this style is that it’s easy to extend a black background if you want more space or to make slightly lighter parts black in post-processing.

low-key photography

ISO 3200, 1/200th, f/5.6.

Sometimes there are also nuances to be found in the blacks. This crow, and its beak, were on a table next to a window (the joys of knowing biologists!) which only got indirect light from outside, so the light levels were very low. Still, it was enough to capture the shades and shapes of the beak.

low-key photography

ISO 4000,1/125th, f/4.

The lighting of these crow feathers was the same as for the above photo. The focus on an all-black scene let all the textures and tones be expressed.

Low-key landscapes

Do you prefer landscape photography? No worries, the low-key photography style works wonderfully for that, too! A night scene usually works very well, but clouds are also very useful. They might make the sky less bright, but they also create interesting light patterns on the ground.

low-key photography

ISO 500, 1/250th, f/8.

An overcast day and an industrial, urban scene provided a great opportunity to capture something dark.

low-key photography

ISO 100, 1/320th, f/8.

The clouds added some nice texture to the sky. But what I was most grateful to them for in this picture was the spotlight effect they created on the landscape.

Conclusion

Experimenting with low-key photography is a great way to get creative – there are so many ways to do it! I hope this basic introduction has whet your appetite to try it out. I’d love to hear from you and see some of your creations in the comments section below!

The post Low-Key Photography – Highlighting Darkness by Hannele Luhtasela-el Showk appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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