Category: Photography

  • Loupedeck CT Review – Could This Be The Best Editing Tool?

    The post Loupedeck CT Review – Could This Be The Best Editing Tool? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

    dps-loupedeck-ct-review

    If you’ve read my previous review of the Loupedeck+, you’ll know I am a massive fan and it is now a firm part of my editing routine. As I said in that review, it was something that I was honestly wary of before trying it, but something I do edit without now. So when I got the chance to do the new Loupedeck CT review, I jumped at it. 

    The Loupedeck CT is a completely new editing station. Loupedeck has marked this as their professional tool, designed to deliver a premium editing experience. Along with the dials and buttons familiar to those who have used the Loupedeck+, the Loupedeck CT features a touchscreen interface system of virtual buttons, that you can fully customize to your editing needs.

    Loupedeck CT wrapped in a cable

    Compatibility

    The CT is compatible with a wide range of software right out of the box. And it has the ability to add even more software via an ever-growing library of custom profiles.

    Here is a list of compatible software out of the box (takes deep breath):

    • Abelton live
    • After Effects
    • Audition
    • Capture One
    • Final Cut Pro
    • Adobe Illustrator
    • Adobe Lightroom Classic
    • Adobe Photoshop
    • Premiere Pro
    • System (Windows & Mac)

    Profiles exist for many more programs, including Davinci Resolve, Photomechanic, and Logic Pro X, amongst others. This is a serious list of professional software, and the ability to customize the Loupedeck CT means that there is an almost limitless opportunity to create your very own tailored workspace.

    A Loupdeck CT with the unit in action for colour grading

    Design and build quality

    The Loupedeck CT is very different from the Loupdeck+. It is much more compact in its footprint. The size is about the same as two mobile phones placed side by side. This smaller footprint not only makes having the CT on a smaller desk much easier, but it also means it is simple to add to your bag when editing on the road or on location. 

    The packaging looks and feels premium. It reminded me of an Apple device in the way that the quality oozes out before you even see the product.

    Jet black packaging with an embossed and foiled logo on the side really does make this product feel luxurious. It may sound silly, but when packaging is this good, I feel that it shows the importance of attention to detail to the company.

    Once the Loupedeck CT is removed from the packaging and those, oh so satisfying, clear plastic covers get removed, the quality of the Loupedeck CT shines through.

    A photo of the box of a Loupedeck CT against a black background

    The build quality on this device is excellent, with the device itself comprised of an aluminum top plate (save the virtual buttons workspace) with a solid plastic underside. All buttons and dials are all reassuringly firm, with the dials having a tactile click when turning, whilst the virtual buttons have haptic feedback, which you turn on or off.

    The center dial is used as a touch screen interface for some adjustments, and again, it works perfectly. It is responsive and has worked flawlessly during my time with the unit.

    This is a very well-made piece of equipment that is another step forward in quality from the already well-made Loupedeck+.

    The Loupedeck CT also has a Bluetooth chip, which will eventually, via an update, make the unit connect wirelessly.

    It also comes with 8GB of storage, which mounts as an external drive when you connect the Loupedeck CT. This storage allows you to save all settings and preferences within the device. So, when you transport the product, all your settings travel with you. This is great for those that travel regularly or use different computers for different projects.

    Ergonomically, the unit is made for one-handed operation. This is not to underestimate the amount of editing this thing can do on its own. Whilst the Loupedeck+ feels like something that is aimed to replace your keyboard, the CT feels like an addition to your keyboard and mouse. It is an incredibly powerful enhancement to your workflow.

    A closeup of the Loupedeck showing the different LED button colours.

    Buttons on the Loupedeck CT are backlit in a way that aids your use of the device. The buttons’ color shows how it is mapped at a glance. The three colors are green, purple, and blue.

    Green buttons are assigned to workspaces (of which you can have multiple per application). The purple buttons are assigned to actions (such as applying a preset or creating a copy of the image, etc.). Finally, the blue buttons are there to take you into page-based layouts. This allows you to create sub-menus within a workspace, such as a page dedicated to your image presets, without the need to change the entire workspace.

    Installing the Loupedeck CT

    Installing the Loupedeck CT is a simple affair. You just download and install the software from the Loupedeck website, then connect the Loupedeck.

    The Loupedeck itself is USB-C, which helps future-proof the product. However, it comes packaged with a USB-C to USB-A braided cable, which will be welcomed by a lot of people. The cable itself is of high quality, reinforcing the attention to detail that Loupedeck has put into this product. 

    The step Screen for the Loupdeck CT showing Lightroom Classic Settings
    The installation and setup is easy. But you will need to spend some time with the software to set the Loupedeck CT to your preferences.

    Learning curve

    The learning curve is the part of Loupedeck CT that is the thing that you will find hardest. It’s not that the CT is hard to use, in fact, it is the total opposite of that. It is more about remembering which button is where, how you have your dials set, and moving your hands away from existing workflows.

    With the Loupedeck+ everything is set and you quickly become accustomed to where everything is. However, whilst the flexibility of the Loupedeck CT is its strongest feature, it does mean you have a larger learning curve. As an example, when moving from Lightroom to Photoshop, the button layout changes, so it takes more time to become a power user across multiple software. 

    The initial setting up of custom workspaces will take time and effort from the user. However, this is the step that is essential for those looking to get the most out of this device.

    The software makes it simple to set up, but you need to customize the layout of the deck for your specific editing style. You will then need to do this on a software-by-software basis. This process may take a few hours, but it is so worth it. The profiles supplied by Loupedeck are great and get you started instantly, but every editing workflow is different and the Loupedeck profiles are unlikely to match your specific workflow.

    A view of the Loupdeck CT editing console in video editing mode
    As with the Loupdeck+, the CT makes using software easier. It does have a learning curve though, one for each software you use it with.

    The Loupdeck CT in use

    The first thing I noticed about the Loupedeck CT was its software awareness. Switching over to Photoshop from Lightroom, the Loupedeck instantly changed to its Photoshop workspace. There was no lag or waiting. It was ready to go. This smoothness is the same for every software. You can even set it up to control your Spotify, so you can keep your hands on the Loupedeck whilst you decide what music you want to  listen to whilst you edit. 

    This key feature makes the Loupedeck CT amazing for those who work in several different pieces of software. It really does make this device a huge step up from the Loupedeck+.

    I know when I reviewed the Loupedeck+, I said that video editing wasn’t great. With the CT, it really performs.

    Moving to Premiere Pro, you get the tools you use the most right at your fingertips. As someone who isn’t a huge video editor, it makes editing easier for me. I have also been experimenting with Final Cut Pro, and again, the Loupedeck saves me having to search through menus when I am looking for a tool.

    I am sure that in the hands of a more capable editor, this tool will be huge in speeding up workflow. For an amateur like me, it makes things easier and encourages me to dig deeper.

    This is also true of Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Audition, which I profess to be completely lacking in in-depth knowledge. However, I can see how this, in the right hands, will be incredibly useful.

    A person using a Loupedeck to edit colour in a photograph
    The centre wheel is one of the highlights of the CT. Being able to use it for things such as colour grading is so intuitive.

    Moving on to photography (the reason I am sure most of you are reading this), to sum it up, it is amazing. If the Loupedeck+ is a high-quality, off-the-peg suit, the CT is a custom-tailored suit from Saville Row; every button and dial customized to fit your editing needs. 

    In Lightroom Classic, it performs beautifully. Editing is effortless and the Loupedeck makes the whole process quicker, easier, and more tactile. The ability to customize a setup to be exactly how you want is something that gives this an advantage over the Loupedeck+ for those who use more advanced features regularly. This is shown in the ease of adding your own presets to buttons. Simply create the preset, then ask Lightroom Classic to update, and instantly, it is available to add to your layout. 

    It is when you move to Photoshop that the Loupedeck CT really shines. The ability to customize your button layout combined with size means using this with a mouse or graphics tablet is a joy. Also, the ability to use the touchscreen center button makes working in color an amazing experience. The Loupedeck CT is a much more enhanced experience than the Loupdeck+ when it comes to Photoshop.

    The integration with Adobe products is still deeper than with other software, though. Switching to Capture One Pro, the experience is simply not quite as fluid. Capture One is in Beta mode even though it comes pre-installed. In use, it lacks the level of integration found in Lightroom and can’t offer the same functionality. 

    This is due to Loupedeck relying on keyboard shortcuts rather than the software API. Loupedeck has released an enhanced plugin profile, which allows greater integration for Capture One users. This does help, but it relies on you having to set your keyboard to the US setting, which as a UK user, is an annoyance.

    I know discussions have taken place with Phase One on fully integrating the Loupedeck CT, and for many professionals who use Capture One, this would be a game-changer. Until that happens, the best way to describe the Capture One experience is good, but not as good as Lightroom.

    A closeup of the Loupedeck CT showing Adobe software symbols

    What I love

    There is a lot to love about this product. The main things for me are:

    • Size
    • Look and build quality
    • Unlimited customization options
    • Multi-software usage 

    What could be better 

    • Integration with non-Adobe products
    • No wireless option (although this may be coming)

    Is it worth it?

    This is the big question. This Loupedeck CT is not cheap. It currently retails at £469.

    It warrants that money to those who spend a lot of time editing and those who use a variety of software daily. It is much more suitable for a wider variety of programs than the Loupedeck+. If you use Adobe products, it is pretty much flawless.

    However, if you mainly edit in Lightroom, you will possibly be better served with the Loupedeck+. It has all the features you need and comes at a lesser cost. 

    The other question is whether it is better to invest in the Loupedeck CT or a graphics tablet. Again, this depends on your usage and editing style. Personally, I would make more use of the Loupedeck CT. However, you may not. 

    The Loupedeck CT is aimed at a certain group of people. To those that will get the most out of this product, the £469 price tag is easily justified in the time saving and workflow enhancements the CT will give them. The Loupedeck CT is no mere editing gadget – it is a tool that takes your editing workflow to another level.

    I really suggest you try a Loupedeck before dismissing it out of hand. Be warned though, you will probably fall in love.

    The post Loupedeck CT Review – Could This Be The Best Editing Tool? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


    Digital Photography School

  • The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly

    The post The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

    dps-corona-photography-workflow

    The bad medical virus

    While the planet seeks a solution to the pandemic problem, may I suggest we use this opportunity to participate in an innovative photographic exercise? This might be just the spherical ray of light (corona) we photographers need in the midst of a dark and scary time. Fortunately, photography is a very personal process. We all use digital devices to capture interesting subjects and express emotions, but none of those devices are multi-person in function. So why not step up your personal photography and share your projects more openly online with a Corona photography workflow.

    There are two obvious opportunities available to everybody that are both extremely safe while being very public. Why not join both the Facebook groups of your local photo club as well as the DPS Facebook group and (safely) start sharing more openly with thousands of your closest friends?

    corona photography workflow - flower - purple flower

    I’m appealing to the leadership of every photo and camera club to provide online assignments and challenges based on the subject of light. Publish each submission publicly and give recognition to all entries.

    The assignments and challenges can be announced on club Facebook pages and posted (in larger sizes) on club websites. This will not only promote activity within the clubs but will share those talents with the rest of the world’s photo enthusiasts. This kind of effort will show the heart of the digital photo community and will widen the family circle and lift the spirits of millions.

    Digital photography is a very dynamic and growing lifestyle, especially with the increased photographic capabilities of today’s camera phones. Photo clubs are comprised of all echelons of experience and all levels of equipment and now includes a growing number of phone photographers.

    We’ve all seen some pretty amazing examples of great pictures captured by camera phones, with several clubs even featuring dedicated internal groups. The software features within these phones are both mind-boggling and beyond the capabilities of many very expensive dedicated digital cameras.

    Add to this the ability of camera phones to immediately (and extensively) edit and post images to all forms of social media.

    The good digital viral process

    The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly

    Lifestyle photography is widely accepted, and the sharing of images is commonplace in our world culture. Since we all travel with these mini-marvels, virtually everybody can participate in this Corona photography workflow project, and with little effort, it will go viral quickly. This kind of virus is good. This way, personal creativity can be unleashed and shared almost without limits in either subject matter or interpretation.

    If well-coordinated, it can unite the minds and emotions of people and redirect emotions to a positive place while the medical world works diligently on an effective solution to the medical problem.

    Social community should be a goal that is openly promoted and encouraged by local photo clubs sponsoring “socially distanced” group activities and photo opportunities. Photo challenges can be organized online through a number of social media. During a time of world crisis like we are currently facing, the nervous human psyche can either suffer fear-overload or be creatively redirected. This is one avenue that we can all travel safely.

    corona photography workflow - flower

    Shared activities need not stop; they simply need to be redefined as virtual group activities. This new sharing can become interpersonal and actually create stronger bonds between individuals who otherwise might not participate in typical meetings.

    Social media has proven to provide a community sharing process that is even more inclusive than literal clubhouse meetings. This digital extension of the photo community clubhouse has a very real chance to involve persons from all aspects of society and age groups.

    Keeping your distance

    Digital cameras offer the ability to capture images from a distance and thus maintain and observe the six-foot protection rule. Even if you don’t have a telephoto or zoom lens, the higher resolution of cameras and phones allows image enlargement to reveal distant detail – especially since Internet images are usually restricted to around 1500 pixels (long dimension). No longer are photographers restricted to close proximity to the subject to capture significant detail.

    This resolution restriction can actually work to your advantage in this respect: you can enlarge images to a greater magnification with no noticeable loss of detail.

    Keeping your distance also allows you to capture images more candidly and thus more naturally. This is how you turn a limitation into an advantage.

    The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly

    While the normal reticence of sharing in public is a barrier that holds back some from participating in public meetings, with this online Corona photography workflow, sharing ideas and experiences might just break that barrier for some and provide them a fresh opportunity to participate. Now they can share a voice and increase personal involvement in a (socially and medically) safe environment.

    In social media, everybody is on level ground and has an equal chance to “speak up” and participate. Sharing is a vital part of the human experience, and this unique opportunity could provide that social spark that we need to get through this situation and be better for it.

    The Internet provides both good and not-so-good subject material and expression, but within the individual online club environment, this behavior can be more carefully monitored and even protected.

    The challenge

    Here’s what I propose that we adopt and promote without hesitation…

    Individuals:

    If you are not currently a photo club member (either local or online), join (at least) one right now; I am a member of several.

    Each local club has a website and a Facebook page. Even if you only read DPS articles and rarely comment, this will give you a chance to speak out (in a silent way) and let us hear from you!

    Search your favorite social media for online groups and clubs. There are dozens available, and many are geared to unique kinds of photography. There is rarely a fee involved, and your involvement is welcomed.

    I just started an online Facebook group called “Corona Camera Club” just to push back on the negative connotation and put a new twist to the term. This will be a group based on light, not darkness. The basic “focus” of the group will be on the lighter side of photography. I invite everyone to join in and start sharing photos and posting positive experiences. There’s enough negative energy in the world right now, let’s turn up the light and keep it positive.

    Club and group leaders

    Post challenges to your members based on weekly (or monthly) themes. Keep these themes upbeat and creative. Provide online access to articles and presentations that would normally be presented in your local club meetings.

    Contact all your members individually and encourage them to enlist one friend every week to join the group. This Corona photography workflow effort is like an old fashioned block party where all neighbors gather and share food and activities. Okay, we can’t eat online, but we can interact more frequently.

    Don’t hesitate to research group sharing opportunities available to businesses and online schools to conduct interactive meetings and turn them into online clubhouses. I certainly invite your current members to join our CCC Facebook group too. Let’s make this a universal family project.

    Get creative

    Take this opportunity to show your creative imagination. Share images that are upbeat, positive, and inspiring. We all need to be realistic about the problems and risks and our physical activities are restricted, but our minds can run wild. Use this time to brighten eyes and uplift spirits. I’m using this post to try out a personal interpretation of some of my nature shots.

    Finally, make your contributions and comments often and regular. Since this Corona medical crisis has limited our physical gatherings, let’s just gather online and channel our energies in a more positive collective enthusiasm. Use your computer, your tablet, and your phone to connect with friends and loved ones using all the services that are available. Love and camaraderie are contagious too, and this kind of infection is all good.

    corona photography workflow - flower - plant

    Let’s determine to find the lighter side of this dark cloud and turn the threatening negative into a big positive. When this scary time is over, the new friendships and associations will be all the deeper, and we can resume our lives on a higher level.

    Remember, the word corona only recently has been defined by a virus. One of the dictionary definitions of corona describes the super bright crown of light that surrounds the Sun. It’s time to get out of the darkness and dive into the light.

    Let’s participate in this Corona photography workflow and give this word a new meaning as we lighten up.

    The post The New Corona Photography Workflow- Shoot Privately but Share and Participate Publicly appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


    Digital Photography School

  • Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting

    The post Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

    ways to easily use lightroom yo find photos worth revisiting

    I don’t have to tell you these are abnormal times. Like many others in every profession, photographers are experiencing a huge decrease in business due to stay-at-home and social distancing restrictions. While we hobbyist photographers may not rely on photography for our income, we just aren’t getting out as much to take pictures. So, maybe this is the time to go “back to the mine” (your photo archives), to see if you’ve overlooked some diamonds in the rough worth revisiting. Let’s take a look at how to use Adobe Lightroom to find photos you might have passed over. Also, how to use it to do some cleanup you just never got around to before.

    Use Lightroom to find photos you might have passed over.  You could discover you have some diamonds in the rough just needing polishing.
    I’d passed this shot by after an edit session I did years ago following a trip to Trillium Lake in Oregon. Now, using Lightroom to find photos I’d passed over, I found it was a diamond in the rough, simply needing some polishing.

    See if this describes you

    You’re a photographer and make photos pretty routinely on trips, photoshoots, studio sessions, weddings, portrait work, or whatever genre of photography you do.

    You make dozens, if not hundreds of images, during just a single shoot.

    Then, you want to quickly edit and get the best shots to your client, perhaps print some, or post the best to social media. When done, you’ve cherry-picked the best shots, edited them, wrapped up and moved on.

    Left behind on your drive are perhaps the other 95-percent of shots that didn’t jump out at the time. There are quite possibly some good images still there that might only take a little extra editing to polish up, diamonds in the rough as it were.

    Perhaps the shots were taken years ago, maybe even with lesser cameras, but now with more editing experience, you have skills to bring them to life.

    There are also photos you’ll never use. Trash that just never got taken out. Images just taking up room on your hard drive.

    Let’s cover how to use Lightroom to find photos, flag them for a second look or clean them out.

    Get a DAM

    Lightroom is a very capable photo editor, but there’s little dispute that Photoshop is the more powerful program for really serious photo editing.

    Other programs have also risen to the forefront; Skylum Luminar, Phase One Capture One Pro, Corel Paintshop Pro, DXO Photolab, and ACDSee Ultimate. The list is growing and joined by many free and quite capable photo editing programs.

    Lightroom flagging, rating, and color-coding tools
    Using the Flags, Star-Ratings, and Color Codes in Lightroom is a great way to better manage your photo library.

    One of the greatest strengths of Adobe Lightroom, however, is as a Digital Asset Management (DAM) tool.

    In layman’s terms, that means it does a great job of organizing your photos, helping you search for images using keywords, ratings, color-codes, flags, collections, filters, and other means of organizing, sorting, and searching. At its core, Lightroom is a database program.

    Many photographers who have spent years learning Photoshop still use that tool for most of their editing but are now looking to Lightroom as a partner program for organizing their photo libraries. What they had previously done with Adobe Camera Raw and Bridge can be done with Lightroom, which if desired, can simply send images out to Photoshop for editing or be used as an editor and more.

    A jealous secretary

    A concept many new Lightroom users find hard to grasp is that the photos you work with while using it are not “in” Lightroom. Lightroom is strictly a note-taker, a “secretary” to use that term, that records everything about an image; where it is, the metadata, how you’ve rated, flagged, color-coded, keyworded, and otherwise tagged it.

    When you edit a photo in Lightroom, each and every step of that edit, text data, is stored in what is called the “catalog.” Your images are never altered, Lightroom just appends “notes” to them.

    I tell you that to tell you this – Lightroom is a “jealous secretary.” She will keep meticulous notes about everything you do with your images, so long as you use “her” to do the work.

    If you work with your images outside of Lightroom, say using the File Explorer in Windows or the Finder on a Mac, you are essentially working “behind Lightroom’s back.” She will let you know it too, losing track of where your images are and what you’ve done to them.

    Ever see a “?” mark on your Lightroom photo or folder? That’s your secretary scolding you. There are ways to recover from this, but my recommendation is if you are going to use Lightroom as your DAM program, keep your jealous secretary happy and do all your image management with her exclusively.

    Lost folders or photos in Lightroom.
    Question marks on folders of photos in Lightroom means the program can’t locate the item. This will happen when you use tools outside of Lightroom to move or change your image.

    A culling session

    If culling is not a term familiar to you, here’s a dictionary definition: “A selection of things you intend to reject.”

    In Lightroom, one of the first things you need to do to work with images is to “import” them. This is sometimes where people become confused. An “import” in Lightroom is simply a means of telling the program where your images are.

    Let’s use two examples of how this might work.

    1. Returning from a shoot, I have my images on my camera card. I pull the card from the camera, put it in a card reader, open Lightroom and using the Import process. Here, I copy the files from the card to a location on a computer hard drive, be it an internal or external drive. Lightroom copies the images to that location, builds thumbnails for them, and stores the information in its catalog.
    2. I already have the photos somewhere on one of my computer drives. I use the Import function of Lightroom to Add the photos to the LR catalog. Lightroom does not move or copy anything, it simply now has information about those images and where they are.
    Using the Lightroom Copy method of Importing
    If you are importing images from a camera card into Lightroom and want it to copy them to a location on your hard drive, the “Copy” method is what you want.

    In both scenarios, the photo files are not “in” Lightroom, and not in a subfolder of that program. They are wherever you chose to store them. However, now your “LR secretary” is keeping track of them.

    Using the Import Add method of bringing images into Lightroom
    If your images are already on one of your computer drives and you simply want to be able to work with them in Lightroom use the Import “Add” function, not the “Copy” function.

    Once visible in Lightroom, the temptation is to look through them and start editing the ones that jump out at you. I’ve done that many times, in a hurry to get to the obvious “nuggets” and start editing them.

    Instead, I’d like to introduce you to a way to more formally, and with greater organization, go through a folder of images.

    The proper way to do this is when you first start working with that new folder of images. But, if you are like me, you might not have known to, were lazy and impatient, or for whatever reason just didn’t do this. No worries, it’s not too late for a proper culling session.

    Here are the steps:

    • Go to the folder where you have the images. You should be in the Library module of Lightroom and in the grid view (Hit “G” on your keyboard) so you can see all of your images.
    • Do some folder-level keywording. If all of the images in the folder were, for example, taken at the beach, you might want all of them to have that keyword to aid in searching later. Hit Ctrl (Cmd on Mac) A to select all of the images. Then click in the Keywords section at the right and type in the keywords you want. If you want more than one to apply to just certain selected images, pick those first and then use a comma between them. i.e., Fireworks, Still-Life, Sparklers.
    Keywording an entire folder of images in Lightroom
    This entire folder of images were shots of fireworks, so I selected all images in the folder and added the keyword “Fireworks.”
    Multiple Keywords in Lightroom for Selected Images
    Selecting several images within the folder, I added additional keywords – Still-Life, and Sparklers. You can have multiple keywords for an image if you separate them with a comma.
    • Time to quickly go through your images one-by-one. To move faster through the images, first, turn on Auto-Advance. You can either turn this on by going to Photo in the top pulldown menu and selecting Auto Advance or simply by holding down the Shift key while you work. Now bring up just the first image in Loupe View (Hit the Enter key).
    • For this first pass, you want to flag the images you want to keep and cull out the ones you know you’ll never use. Viewing each image, hit either the “P” key to flag the image as a Pick or “X” key to reject it.
    • If you just can’t decide, the right arrow key “>” to move on.
    Flagging images as Picks or Rejects in Lightroom and using Auto Advance to move through them.
    To quickly cull your images in Lightroom, turn on Auto Advance and then use the “P” key to flag an image as a Pick, the “X” key to mark it as a Reject, or just use the Right Arrow Key to move to the next image with no flagging. Note the white flags are picks, the black flags with an X are rejects.

    Try to be selective here. This does not immediately throw out any images and you can change your mind later. However, your objective ought to be to do some serious housekeeping, X-ing out the images you are unlikely to ever use, and Picking the ones you will probably want to edit later.

    Everyone is different. Some people are tidy and have no problem tossing things out they don’t expect to use. Then there are folks like me, packrats for whom this is a tougher task.

    Time to be brave. You can check to see which images you flagged with an “X” as rejects if you like. Hit “G” to go back to the Grid view. Now using the Library Filter (top of the grid), click the word “Attribute” and then click the Black flag. This will show the images you flagged as Rejects with the “X.” You can take another look at these if you have to and if you decide it is not one you want to be rejected, hit the “P” key to change it back to a Pick.

    Taking out the trash

    So let’s get rid of the rejects. To see what you flagged with an “X” as a reject, hit Ctrl- Backspace (Cmd on Mac). You will see two options:

    • Delete from Disk – This will permanently delete the images from your hard drive. You might still find them in your recycle bin if you accidentally pick this, but consider this the trash for the most part.
    • Remove from Lightroom – The files will remain on your drive, but you will no longer see them in Lightroom. This is the safer option if you are unsure, but it’s also like just putting your garbage in the hall closet. If you plan to clean the house, do it and don’t look back.
    The warning message will pop up when you are about to delete your rejected photos.
    Decision time. After you’ve using the culling step to flag your Picks and Reject images, hit Ctrl-Backspace. This question will appear. You can delete your rejected images entirely or, simply remove them from showing up in Lightroom but retain them on your drive. Choose wisely.

    Colors and flags and stars, oh my!

    If you were disciplined, using the Pick and Reject options helped you separate the wheat from the chaff, getting rid of things you’ll never use and perhaps freeing up all kinds of space on your hard drives. So now let’s use some tools to go a little deeper, helping you to organize and find images warranting further work.

    Lightroom lets you tag photos with several different things to add in organizing, sorting, filtering, and finding them. Let’s look at the options.

    • Sorting – There are many different ways to sort your images in the Library view of Lightroom. This doesn’t change anything but simply allows you to see them in whatever sort order you like. Some are obvious, like sorting by Capture time so you can see the images in the order you took them. Others, like sorting by aspect ratio, are less obvious but sometimes very useful. Say you need an image for a magazine cover and want a portrait-orientation image. Sorting by aspect ratio is the ticket. Explore what this very simple option can do for you.
    Finding photos with Lightroom - sorting by aspect ratio
    Using the Sort by Aspect Ratio option can be handy if you want to group your portrait and landscape orientation images together.
    • Color – You can flag your photos with any of five different colors (Red, Yellow, Green, Blue or Purple). What each color signifies is strictly up to you. Maybe you want to flag all of your very best images with Red, your Landscapes with Green, your images you want to edit with Yellow – whatever you like. To flag an image, click on the image(s) you want that color applied to, then click on the color patch you want to apply that color tag to. You can also use the keyboard shortcuts – 6-Red, 7-Yellow, 8-Green, 9-Blue. There is no number shortcut for Purple.
    Finding photos with Lightroom - Sort by Color
    If you’ve used color codes to identify different photo types, sorting by color can be useful.
    • Star Rating – How to apply a star rating is easy. When on an image, just click the number key for the rating you want to assign or use the star symbol on the toolbar at the bottom. What a certain rating means…that’s your call. Is a 5-star image your best ever? Is a 1-star image one that barely escaped deletion? What does a 3-Star rating mean? Whatever you come up with, be consistent and the rating system will be more useful.
    Finding photos with Lightroom
    Come up with your own scheme of using the star-rating in Lightroom and then sort by rating.
    • Flags – We already discussed flags earlier. Basically, they are a way to mark an image as a pick or a reject. Use several or none. You can use these tagging tools singularly or in combination, depending on how you choose to mark up your images. For example, a really great landscape photo might be a green, 4-star, flagged as a Pick image. The power comes in how once marked up, you can filter and sort your images.

    Finding, filtering, and sorting

    So you’ve cleaned up your folders, eliminated the rejects, and flagged your images with color codes, star ratings, and perhaps added some keywords. (We didn’t get into keywording much as that can be an art unto itself. I refer you to this article to learn more about the power of this tool).

    Now we want to use this organization to help us find all our best lighthouse images taken in the past three years, for example. If we were good about marking up our images, we might have put the keyword “lighthouse” on them, flagged them with red (which we decided were our best photos), or maybe just made our top images 5-star.

    How do we use the markups to find what we seek?

    Use Lightroom to find photos with ratings, color codes, and keywords.
    Creative use of the Library filter in Lightroom can bring up just the image you’re looking for if you’ve properly labeled your images with star ratings, pick flags, color codes and keywords. Here, I was looking for all my photos that had the keyword Lighthouse, were 4-star images, and color-coded red.

    The better you are at marking-up your images, the greater the degree of precision you will have in finding that needle in a haystack when it comes time for that. I personally have over 100,000 images in my Lightroom catalog. (That’s a big haystack!) So, to use Lightroom to find photos requires some creativity with the Library filtering tool.

    You will be able to search through basic things you may have added; keywords, file names, folder names or anyplace else where text might be. You can search your Attributes, the star ratings, color codes, flags.

    Another very powerful Attribute is being able to search for unedited photos. Note the filter selection in the image below. Using that icon, I can have Lightroom show all photos for which Lightroom has no edit history.

    If I bring up a folder with images that were edited elsewhere before coming into Lightroom, they will also show up as unedited. But, assuming this is a folder with images that have been brought in directly off your camera card and never been touched with anything other than Lightroom, this is a fantastic way to show those “passed over nuggets” we might want to revisit.

    Use Lightroom to find photos.  Need to see all the images in your Library you've not edited?  Easy with the Lightroom Library filter.
    Using the Library filter, I’m able to see all the images for a particular year shot with my Canon 6D that are unedited by Lightroom. Creative use of the Text, Attribute, and Metadata filter in the Library Filter function of Lightroom can tell you much about your images and help you find that missing needle in the haystack.

    Searching through metadata can also be a powerful way to find photos. Without you even having to enter any information, your camera captures a wealth of data about each image it takes. (Have a look at my article on Irfanview which gets into metadata.)

    So, say you’re still looking for those lighthouse photos, but you never put keywords on them. Searching for “lighthouse” isn’t going to help. But say you do know you took the photos on a trip in September of 2017 and shot them with your Canon 6D. Putting just that information into the search filter in the Library module should greatly reduce the size of the “haystack.”

    The more precise you can be with your search parameters, the more precise your search will be. Explore all the search options in the Text, Attribute, and Metadata areas and how using them in combination can greatly help you find what you seek.

    Become a Collector

    Using the Library filter is a great way to search through your photos when you’re looking for something, particularly an ad hoc search for something you don’t need to find often. When you really want to tap the power of the database that is Lightroom, Smart Collections are really cool. First, let’s describe what a Lightroom collection is.

    Say you like to take pictures of flowers. Even when you’re out on some other kind of shoot, when you see a nice flower, you take a shot. Thus, you have flower pictures scattered throughout your folders. Now, how would it be to see all of those in one place, without having to move, copy, or duplicate anything? That’s what a Lightroom collection can be, a “pointer” to images that groups them all into one “folder” without moving anything.

    There are two kinds of collections in Lightroom.

    The first is a regular collection. You can add the photos manually. You can drag them from their folder location to a collection you have set up. Alternatively, if you designate a collection as the “Target collection,” while viewing that image in the Library module, you can just hit the “B” key on your keyboard to add the image to the target collection. You can also select multiple images in the Library module, hit the “B” key to add them all to the target collection.

    Remember that nothing really moves, no duplicates get made, no additional drive space is needed. Collections are virtual – only pointers to the original files.

    Collections can be very handy. When I’m gathering photos for an article, I will often create a Lightroom collection with the title of the article, make it the target collection, and then as I prowl through my library looking for photos I might want to use, I hit the “B” key on the keyboard and they are added to the collection. Fantastic!

    Be a Smarter Collector

    Collections are a great tool, but we can go a step further.

    Let’s go back to our flower photos example. If I took some flower shots every time I did a shoot, I want them to automatically show up in my Best Flowers collection without any additional work on my part? A smart collection uses filters and conditions like the Library filter but runs continuously in the background.

    To set up a new Smart Collection, go to the Collections tab in the panel on the left side of Lightroom. Click the + symbol. Select Create a Smart Collection. Then use the controls in that menu to set up the parameters defining what will be selected.

    So, if I set up a smart collection, name it “Best Flowers” and use the parameters where, for example, keywords contained “flowers” and the rating was 3-stars or above, any photo added meeting those conditions automatically appear in that smart collection without any additional work by me. Once built, your smart collections just work silently in the background of Lightroom. (I would just have to remember to be diligent about rating and keywording my flower photos each time I had some new ones brought in.)

    Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting
    Once you set up the parameters for a Smart Filter in Lightroom, it will watch for any images that meet those qualifications and add them to the collection. Here, I have a filter that looks for photos with the keyword “Flowers” that are rated 4-stars or higher. Now, if I’m good about rating and keywording my flowers photos as I take them and import them into Lightroom, they will automatically be added to this collection

    Another great use for a smart collection – make one to show all your unedited photos, wherever they might be in your library.

    Set your smart collection parameters to something like my example below. It has the Has edits set to False, the camera as the one I’m interested in, my Canon EOS 6D, the File Type Raw, and the Pick Flag is on.

    Now, unedited images I’ve flagged as Picks will immediately show up here as soon as I imported them in Lightroom. As I edit them, they will fall off this list. Think of this kind of Smart collection as your “In Box” of photos for editing.

    I can also use the other tools and filters we’ve discussed to determine if I will keep them at all. I can do additional culling here if I decide I won’t edit them and perhaps delete them.

    Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting
    Use a Lightroom Smart Collection to act as your “In Box” telling you which photos need editing. I’ve set this Smart filter to add photos that are not edited (Has Edits is False), where the file type is Raw, I’ve flagged the photo as a Pick, and the photos were taken with my Canon 6D. Smart Collections can be very powerful and the beauty is, as collections are strictly virtual, there’s no need for additional copies, folders, or duplicates that would take up more drive space.

    Also, remember images in a collection are just pointers to the original files. So if you click on an image in a collection and open it in the Edit module to make changes, you are also editing the photo in the folder where it really lives.

    Polishing up the diamonds

    When you can’t be out taking more photos, a good use of your time might be to use Lightroom to find photos worth revisiting.

    I’m betting that you’ve passed over many diamonds in the rough, and a trip back through the mine that is your photo library will yield some yet undiscovered treasures. Happy prospecting. For now, stay home, be well, and “Live long and prosper.”

    The post Ways to Use Lightroom to Find Photos Worth Revisiting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


    Digital Photography School

  • Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home

    The post Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

    dps-finding-beautiful-portrait-light-at-home

    It can be tempting to think that you need lots of money, space, and equipment to shoot great portraits. But using just your camera and a reflector, you can find beautiful portrait light at home to shoot in.

    Almost everyone will have at least one room in their home with natural light from a window that could make a great portrait. It’s just a case of figuring out where the best light in your home is. Sometimes this takes a little trial and error, but as long as you get a good grasp of the basics, you should be able to shoot some great portraits at home!

    Open up your aperture

    Shooting indoors often means less light than if you were shooting outside or with studio strobes. To get some more light into your camera, try opening up your aperture and setting it to the lowest number possible.

    Opening your aperture up to let more light into your camera also has the effect of creating a shallow depth of field. A shallow depth of field has real advantages when you’re shooting at home – it can blur out the background and any unwanted clutter.

    portrait light at home
    ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/320th sec

    Alternatively, if you need to place your subject right next to a wall that isn’t as great a background as you hoped for (like above), try hanging a large sheet of paper behind them. The result would be like going to a studio with a paper backdrop. Or if you fancy something completely different, try creating a more creative backdrop!

    Get your subject to turn their face towards the light to make it fall in a very flattering way that illuminates their features. If you turn their face slightly back towards you then you can create the classic “Rembrandt light” that fine art photographers love so much (just turn their face towards you enough to create a “triangle” of light on the side of their face away from the window).

    By just changing the way your subject faces, you should be able to experiment with broad and short lighting with just a single window. If you have a patient subject, then a single window and a model can be a great way to learn about new kinds of lighting while finding lovely portrait light at home.

    Shoot in the bathroom

    I’m not even messing about. Bathrooms often have incredible light because of all the white, reflective surfaces. Even a bathroom with a small window can have lots of light bouncing about just waiting for you to photograph it.

    portrait light at home
    ISO800, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/1100th sec

    If you want to fill in some shadows, or even add a bit more directional light, you can experiment with using a reflector. You can use the silver side to add a bright, directional light in a room like this by bouncing light into the brighter side of the face. Alternatively, you could use the white side of a reflector to just gently lift any shadows that you get, to make the light more even.

    Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home
    ISO1600, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/3000th sec

    Don’t be afraid to push up your ISO either if you want to capture a fast-moving or unpredictable subject like a pet. Most modern digital cameras can now go quite high with the ISO without seeing any problems in the images.

    I shot the images above at ISO 1600, with an extremely fast shutter speed as my cat zipped around the house from dark to light spots. I had the camera set to Aperture Priority mode, so the camera chose its shutter speeds. Aperture Priority mode is a great choice for shooting portraits indoors because it lets you make creative choices about aperture and depth of field without having to worry about shutter speed.

    Experiment with the time of day

    As the sun moves, the light will change in different parts of your house. Make it your mission to observe and try out the light as it changes throughout the day if you want to find the good spots for beautiful portrait light at home.

    Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home
    Left: ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/280th sec
    Right: ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/2000th sec

    I took both of the above shots in the same room, sitting in almost exactly the same place. The difference was the time of day. The shot on the right with the hard light was taken in the bright morning light. In comparison, I took the image on the left in the afternoon when the sun had stopped shining directly into the room.

    portrait light at home

    Patches of light and shadow can make for really interesting photographs as you let them play across the face or body of your subject. Be sure to experiment with how they create different effects both in the photographs themselves and when you post-process them afterward (increasing the contrast can work really well for light like this).

    Use what you have

    When I first moved into my home with its large room designated as my studio, I shot almost exclusively with strobes. I would shut out all of the natural light so that I could concentrate on just using my studio lights. I hadn’t even considered that I might have beautiful portrait light at home.

    portrait light at home
    ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/240th sec

    One day, though, I just wanted to grab a quick self-portrait. So I opened the curtains and photographed myself in the morning light.

    On inspecting the files later, I discovered that this light was unexpectedly beautiful. Now I shoot regularly sat face-on to this big window in my studio with no additional lighting or reflectors because I discovered it was simply wonderful light.

    Learn from my mistake – test out every window in your house for portraits, at different times of the day.

    When you move into a new home, make it one of the first things that you do. Don’t wait several years to realize that you already have wonderful natural portrait light at home!

    I’d love to see your portraits using the natural light in your home. Please share them with us in the comments section!

    The post Tips for Finding Beautiful Portrait Light at Home appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


    Digital Photography School

  • Peak Design Donates 100% of Profits from Travel Tripod Launch to Charity

    The post Peak Design Donates 100% of Profits from Travel Tripod Launch to Charity appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    dps-news-peak-design-donates-profits

    Peak Design, the camera carry company based in California, launched their Travel Tripod in early April.

    And they donated 100% of the profits to charity.

    The Travel Tripod has been making waves ever since it was funded on Kickstarter, where the promise of a stable, compact tripod drew in 12 million USD from nearly 30,000 donors.

    Fast-forward a year, and the Travel Tripod was ready to launch as two separate products:

    A carbon fiber option and an aluminum alloy option, both offering unprecedented compactness and stability as a pro-level travel tripod solution.

    peak design travel tripod in use

    Then, in the weeks prior to the launch, Peak Design announced its intentions to donate all profits to two charities:

    The CDC Foundation, for COVID-19 relief, and Climate Neutral, an organization that works to combat climate change.

    As explained by the Peak Design CEO:

    Now more than ever is the time for us to act on our core values and ensure that our employees, contractors and retail partners can find economic shelter in a product we’ve spent years developing…Peak Design is also in a unique position to offer financial support to those that are solving the problem. To be able to donate in a time of need speaks volumes to the company we’ve built over the last ten years.

    Now that the launch is complete, Peak Design has released their numbers; the company sold over 2000 tripods, culminating in a whopping $ 218,000 USD donated to the CDC Foundation and Climate Neutral.

    the peak design travel tripod is extremely compact

    For those who are interested in the Peak Design travel tripod, it offers:

    • A weight of 2.81 lbs (1.27 kg) for the carbon fiber model
    • A weight of 3.44 lbs (1.56 kg) for the aluminum model
    • A weight capacity of 20 lbs (9.1 kg)
    • Minimum height of 15.2 in (38.5 cm)
    • Maximum height of 60.2 in (153 cm) with the center column raised
    • Setup in 9.8 seconds
    • A ball head with a phone mount

    You can pick it up for $ 599.95 USD (carbon fiber) or $ 349.95 USD (aluminum).

    Now over to you:

    Do you own a travel tripod? And how does the Peak Design Travel Tripod compare? Share your thoughts in the comments!

    The post Peak Design Donates 100% of Profits from Travel Tripod Launch to Charity appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • How DSLR Lenses Work: DSLR Lenses Explained

    A camera lens is arguably the most important part of a photographers set-up, to the point where most professional photographers would rather shoot with an ok camera body as long as they had a top-quality lens rather than the other way around. However, if you are just entering the world of DSLR lenses, at first glance they can be a Continue Reading

    The post How DSLR Lenses Work: DSLR Lenses Explained appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • How to Do Digital Scrapbooking – A Fun Activity to do Indoors

    The post How to Do Digital Scrapbooking – A Fun Activity to do Indoors appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    dps-how-to-do-digital-scrapbooking

    Have you heard of digital scrapbooking? It probably sounds a little weird because a scrapbook is associated with crafts and handiwork. But it’s also a way of preserving and displaying your memories with a specific look that can be recreated digitally.

    Digital Scrapbooking using GIMP

    It’s also a fun activity for the whole family, and you can do it indoors. Keep reading to learn how to do it and even keep the crafting involved if you like.

    Prep work

    Selection

    As you would do with any kind of album, you need to go through your photos and select the ones you want to include. Sometimes it’s easier if you choose a topic for it, especially in scrapbooking as the embellishment will be guided by it. For example, you could choose your first trip to the beach.

    Digital Scrapbooking indoor family activity

    If you want to make the most out of this exercise, you can even organize all those files that you’re reviewing. There are many programs dedicated to this, some of the most popular are Lightroom or ACDSee.

    Decoration

    The most characteristic thing about scrapbooking is the embellishment.

    You can add notes, frames, and all sorts of decorations around the photos. Digital scrapbooking is not different, what changes is the way you do it. However, if you want to keep some of the craftings, it’s also possible.

    Let me give you some examples and ideas.

    • Stock Images: This is the fully digital version. You can buy or download images from different websites. Unsplash and Pexels are great sites for free stock images. If you’re just using Google, always keep an eye on the licensing permissions of each photo so you don’t infringe any laws.
    • Photograph objects around the house: This is not exactly crafty, but it does involve your own creativity. Do you have flowers, fruits, or any home decors that can match the topic you’re working on? Photograph them! Best if you can put it in a neutral and contrasting background, as you are going to cut them out later. This is great when you want to involve more people in the activity – that way everyone can go find their favorite objects to include.
    • Make your own: This is just like the one before, except that you don’t use things that you already have. Instead, you make them, especially for this project. You can do some origami figures or ‘age’ a piece of paper with tea and coffee stains to use as background. This version is the one that includes more crafting and stays closest to the original tradition. It’s especially fun if you have kids. Once you have everything done, photograph it to use in your digital scrapbook.

    Digital Scrapbooking

    I’m going to do my scrapbook in GIMP because it’s free software, and this way, anyone can follow. You can also use Photoshop as the main feature you need is to work with layers. Just keep in mind that the individual tools and effects would be different.

    Get your images ready

    Okay, now that you have the photos of your elements, you need to have them ready for use in digital scrapbooking. That means that each one is cut-out so that it can interact freely with others.

    For this, you can do the work right inside GIMP, or you can use any of the many free tools to remove backgrounds that are on the market. I’ll show you how to do one here in GIMP.

    Open your image and make a selection around your subject using any of the selection tools from the panel.

    There is no right or wrong when choosing the tool; it depends on the image you’re working and your skills. For example, here, it’s easier to use the Rectangle because of the shape of the object. However, I could also use the scissors or the path tool to draw the edge manually.

    Selection tools

    Once you have it, go to Select > Invert so that it’s the background that gets selected. Then right-click on the Layers dock and choose Add an alpha channel from the menu to allow the transparency and finally go to Edit > Clear.

    Remove backgrounds

    Now save your image in GIMP’s file extension by using Save As or Export to save as .png, which will make it available for other programs while preserving the transparency. Repeat the process for all the images you’re going to use and save them in the same folder for easy access.

    Create your layout

    To create the layout for your scrapbook, you need all the elements in the same document. To do this, you need to go to File > Open as Layers. Select all the files and click Ok. This will open one document with each photograph as an independent layer.

    Digital Scrapbooking is done in layers

    You can now use the Move, Scale, and Rotate tools to arrange your layout.

    Keep in mind the order of your layers, as the ones on top will cover the ones below. So, if you want things to overlap, you can drag and drop the layers to change the order.

    Summer layout

    Once you’re happy, you can start adding notes, which is another important component of a scrapbook.

    Add some text

    There are many experiments you can do to play with your text. Here are a couple of simple ideas to get you going.

    Use the Text tool to write a title, note, date, or whatever you want to include. If you click and drag, you can create a specific area where the text will fit. Then choose the font you like.

    In my opinion, the ones that simulate handwriting are the best for digital scrapbooking.

    Digital Scrapbooking includes notes

    You can later change the Blending Mode to incorporate it more naturally into the image or create different effects. You’ll find this menu on top of the layer panel.

    GIMP's text effects

    Another choice is to type directly in the background. Then use the Rectangle Select Tool and draw a selection around it. Then go to Filters > Light and Shadow > Xacht Effect which is a default script included in GIMP – 2.10, which is the latest to the time of this article.

    This will create a 3D effect that simulates a tag for your text.

    Add some text to embelish

    And there you go, add as much or as little as you like.

    You can use it as a template and just change the image, or you can follow the same steps to create different layouts.

    Have fun using digital scrapbooking to design albums, screensavers, wallpaper for your computer and so much more. I hope you enjoyed it!

    Digital scrapbook summer layout

    Try digital scrapbooking out at home and share your results with us in the comments!

    The post How to Do Digital Scrapbooking – A Fun Activity to do Indoors appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Create Sun Flares Using Luminar 4 and Photoshop (video)

    The post How to Create Sun Flares Using Luminar 4 and Photoshop (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video from Anthony Turnham, you’ll learn how to create sun flares using Luminar 4, either standalone or as a plugin in Photoshop.

    This effect can be a great addition to any landscape photo or portraits, especially if you feel your image is lacking something special. This effect can possibly give your image extra life and dynamic.

    Anthony takes you through this tutorial in an easy-to-follow way, making it easy for you to create your own sun flare.

    Try out this technique and share your resulting photos with us in the comments section.

    Do you have other methods for creating sun flares? Share those with us too!

    You may also like:

    • How to Easily Make Images ‘Pop’ with these Luminar 4 Tips
    • How to Use the Luminar 4 Pro Tools Panel
    • Portrait Editing with Luminar 4 – Using Artificial Intelligence
    • Luminar vs Lightroom: Three Reasons Luminar is Better (and Two Reasons It’s Not)
    • Easy Color Grading With LUTs and Luminar 2018
    • Tips For Editing the Colors in Landscape Photos Using Lightroom (video)
    • Editing Gently: 3 Tips for Processing Realistic Landscape Photos

    The post How to Create Sun Flares Using Luminar 4 and Photoshop (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills

    The post Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    dps-black-and-white-photography-exercises

    Black and white photography exercises can help you gain an understanding of how it differs from color photography. Concentrating on black and white images helps develop your photography in many ways.

    “Color is descriptive. Black and white is interpretive.” ~ Eliott Erwitt

    Boy calling in a market.
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D700, 120mm, 1/800 sec, f/2.8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

    Thinking in black and white

    Loading a black and white film into your camera forced you to think in black and white. This is different with digital photography because it’s easy to convert a color image to monotones.

    There are plenty of tools to help you do this. The Nik Software Silver Effects Pro is a superb Photoshop plug-in for converting color images to black and white.

    Purposefully photographing in black and white is different than converting during post production. A photographer must think differently when their intention is to create photos without color. You see in color, so you must learn to disregard the color and think in black and white. Good black and white photography is not about taking the colors out of a photo.

    Black and white photography relies on contrast and tone range and how these relate within your compositions. You must learn to look at the tones, not the colors, as you compose your photos.

    Light has a huge influence on the tones in a photograph. The camera records reflected light to make photos. The amount and quality of the light used defines how a subject will appear when you take a photo of it. Hard light or soft light will produce very different results. This is the same with color, but it’s more pronounced in black and white photography.

    One of the best ways you can learn to do this is by practicing black and white photography exercises.

    Portrait of a man in the studio
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D800, 35mm f/1.4, 1/100 sec, f/4, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

    Choose one subject for these black and white photography exercises

    Find one or two interesting subjects to photograph for these exercises. You may even choose to set up a small still life scene with various objects you have around the house. This will allow you to make comparisons and see differences.

    You need to find things you can move around and place in different locations.

    Look for things that are not all black or all white. A mixture of tones will produce the most helpful results. If you photograph something(s) with white, black and mid-tones you’re going to be able to see the effects more clearly in your photos.

    The main aim of these black and white photography exercises is to help you develop a better understanding of tone. Don’t try to make masterpiece photos that you’ll hang on your living room wall. If you do, that will be a bonus.

    black and white photography exercises example one
    Soft light, outdoors on a cloudy day using Averaged light metering. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/800 sec, f/8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering.

    Lighting for black and white photography exercises

    The reason you need to photograph something you can move is so you can photograph it in different locations and lighting conditions.

    The type of light you photograph your subjects in, directly affects how they will look. Using hard light will produce very different-looking black and white photos than when you use soft light.

    Strong light creates high contrast, no matter what tone your subject is. Soft light makes an even exposure much easier. Think about the quality of light and how it affects the look and feel of your photographs as you work.

    Hard light

    Place your subject in a location with hard light. Outside on a sunny day is ideal because you’ll be able to see where the shadows fall.

    If you can’t manage that, using an on-camera flash with no diffuser will produce a hard light. You’ll need to take test images and study them to see where the shadows fall.

    Take a series of photos from the first angle you think of. Expose some normally. Use averaged metering and set your exposure so the meter reads zero, or let your camera choose the setting if you use an auto mode.

    black and white photography exercises example two
    Hard light, outdoors on a sunny day using spot metering from the highlight on the steel jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/800 sec, f/11, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

    Next, expose for the highlights.

    Take a light meter reading from the brightest part of your composition.

    To do this, set your camera’s meter to spot and point the spot at the bright area to take your reading. If you use live view, your camera may display the way your photo will look when you use manual mode. This way, you can adjust the exposure for the highlights based on what you see on your monitor. On many mirrorless cameras, the viewfinder will display the exposure the same as this when you are set to manual mode.

    After taking a few photos with these settings, use the same technique to set your exposure so the shadow areas will be exposed well. Take another series of photos.

    black and white photography exercises example three
    Hard light, outdoors on a sunny day using spot metering from the darkest area on the black jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/250 sec, f/11, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

    If you’re finding this exercise valuable and you have time, repeat this process.

    Move around your subject and make compositions from different angles. Remember, the first angle you think to take a photo from is the most obvious, but not always the most interesting. Look at the way the light is falling on your subject and how the shadows look. Repeat the process and take photos at the three different exposure settings.

    Soft light

    If you’re photographing outdoors in the sun, move your subject into a shady area. Find somewhere outside where there’s still plenty of daylight.

    If you’re inside and have been using your flash, take this next series of photos without using your flash. You may need a tripod if there’s not much light.

    black and white photography exercises example four
    Soft light, outdoors on a cloudy day using spot metering from the highlight on the steel jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/2500 sec, f/8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

    Repeat the same series of exposures as you did when you were photographing in hard light. Think about the tones in your composition when you are making your exposure readings and looking at the results.

    If you’ve been photographing outdoors, move your subject inside and away from any windows or other strong light and repeat the whole process. This lower contrast situation will produce different results again. The variation will be subtle, but it’s interesting to see.

    During this process, make notes about what you are doing and your thought process. You don’t need to record your camera settings as these are included in the EXIF data. Instead, write down what you are observing with the tones, light and shadows. Why did you take photos from these angles? How has the light and tone affected the way you’ve chosen to compose your photos?

    Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills
    Soft light, outdoors on a cloudy day using spot metering from the darkest area on the black jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/80 sec, f/8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

    Make the most of shadows

    Especially in hard light, shadows have a major impact on black and white photography exercises.

    Think about where the light is coming from in relation to where you are with your camera. How does this change the way the composition looks when you move around your subject? How does it change when you move your subject?

    This is easier to see when you are working with the sun as your light source. Using flash, you’ll need to refer back to your monitor often to see the variations. Look at the differences in the shadow areas in the different sets of photos. How different do they look when you exposed for the shadows and when you exposed for the highlights?

    Woman sewing with an old machine
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D800, 35mm f/1.4, 1/200 sec, f/3.2, ISO 160, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering.

    Think creatively

    Once you’ve uploaded the photos to your computer. Select one image from each setup and each exposure setting. Simply desaturate all of these photos. This is not an ideal means for converting your photos to black and white, but it will suffice for this exercise.

    Now look at these and compare them. Think about the way they look and the differences between the exposure settings. Consider how the various light has had an effect on the tone of your subjects.

    Under hard light and soft light, you’ll notice the tone of your subjects looks different. Each set of photos taken at the various exposure settings will produce very different results. This is particularly noticeable with those taken under hard light.

    Worker at the street market
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D800, 50mm f/1.4, 1/400 sec, f/4, ISO 250, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering.

    Choose one photo from each set to make some further post-processing adjustments. Work with the sliders for:

    • contrast,
    • shadows,
    • blacks,
    • highlights
    • and whites.

    Experiment with these various settings. Play with them. Discover how much impact post-processing has on these black and white photography exercises. What you can do with post-processing monotone images is beyond the scope of this article, so just have some fun with it.

    I’d love to see some of your best results and know what you learned by doing this exercise. You can share your photos and thoughts in the comments section below.

    The post Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Window Light

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Window Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    Since many of us are still limited to where we can go, this week’s photography challenge topic is the WINDOW LIGHT!

    window light reflected on walls
    The window light here has cast shadows on the floor. I also made this black and white and boosted the contrast. © Caz Nowaczyk

    Window light is the way that the sunlight comes through a window or glass door and creates interesting light-play on walls, floors and other surfaces. It creates shadows, it can sometimes create colors. Anyway, get your cameras out and capture the way the light falls through your windows.

    You can also play with them in post-processing if you like – make them black and white, or boost contrast. The possibilities are endless.

    I look forward to seeing your shots!

    window light reflected on walls
    I loved the way the light made this little bokeh balls of light on the wall. © Caz Nowaczyk
    window light reflected on walls
    This was the light reflecting through blinds onto the wall and ceiling. They made for interesting shapes. © Caz Nowaczyk
    Weekly Photography Challenge – Window Light
    Morning sunlight streams through my front glass door, which has an ornate metal pattern. It creates interesting shapes in the shadow on the wood paneling. I decided to boost the contrast and make this one black and white too. © Caz Nowaczyk

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for photographing WINDOW LIGHT

    How to Achieve Great Black and White Photos in Editing

    How to Use Color Temperature in Black and White Conversions

    How to Create Silky Split Toned Black and White Photos Using Luminosity Masks

    12 Tips For Indoor Natural Light Photography

    How to Split Tone Black and White Photos in Lightroom

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSwindowLight to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Window Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School