Category: Photography

  • VSGO Camera Sensor Cleaning Kit Review

    Cleaning your camera sensor for the first time can be a scary thing! But the fact of the matter is that it’s not as scary as many people make it out to be. Indeed if you get the chance to watch a professional sensor your camera, they’re pretty stress-free and just get on with the job, and while there is a (mostly!) good level of care, they’re not carrying on as if they’re performing open-heart surgery.

    Yes, our cameras are our babies. But they’re also tools and despite what we may think, they can handle a little bit of hard work and a good cleaning, too. In this article, I’m going to tell you about my experience cleaning my own sensors and using the VSGO sensor cleaning kit.

    VSGO sensor cleaning kit

    See below for the video demonstration.

    VSGO Sensor Cleaning Kit

    The first time I ever tried cleaning my own sensor was on my new Canon 5D MarkII. I remember being super nervous and thinking that I was going to cause some irreversible damage!

    Well, as it happens, I managed to put a big streak of cleaning fluid on the sensor and when I took a test shot I was horrified. I thought I’d scratched the sensor right down the middle! So I did a little bit of Googling to find that almost all modern sensors have some sort of protective layer in front of them to protect them from fools like me! I added a tiny dot of cleaning fluid, did it again and my sensor was sparkly and clean!

    It is scary, but it’s not hard to effectively clean your own sensor.

    I’ve used other sensor cleaning kits before. They worked fine, but they were just bigger and bulkier than this simple VSGO kit so I left them at home. With the VSGO sensor cleaning kit, I chuck a couple of swabs and a little bottle of cleaning fluid in my camera bag and I’m always ready should the need arise.

    Sensor cleaning demo

    I’ve put together this quick video to show you the exact procedure I use with these VSGO cleaning swabs, take a look!

    As you can see in the video above, it’s easy to see the bigger dust spots, they’re sitting there waiting to be wiped away. Many people like the idea of blowing those right off, but I prefer not to do that. I don’t like the idea of blowing the bigger bits of dust off of my sensor and straight into the shutter box or sensor cavity to blow around at a later date and make your sensor clean mostly invalid! Kinda like driving through a car wash that’s just had its washy bits coated in dirt, no thanks.

    In my few months of testing the VSGO cleaning system, I’ve found that with most camera sensors, you will only need one VSGO brush with a wipe from left to right. Then one more back from right to left using the opposite side of the brush and you’re done. But there have been one or two sensors that have required a couple of extra wipes!

    How do you know when to clean your sensor?

    When you’re out taking photographs and you close down your aperture (bigger f-number, for those of you that are newer to photography) for a deeper depth-of-field, you may notice little dark smudges, particularly around the edge of your photographs. Those cheeky little things are dust spots on the sensor (unless you had a pack of rabid pigeons flying around you looking for chips!)

    They’re not very obvious when you’re taking a photograph with a shallow depth of field, and many photographers are prone to using our lenses as wide as they will go for the most part, so it’s not an issue. But from time to time, given the right situation, you will notice them.

    In the photo below, I’ve bumped up the Contrast and Clarity in Lightroom to make the little smudge stand out a bit – pretty sure you’ll spot them!

     

    My experience with the VSGO sensor cleaning kit was a very positive one and I have a couple of swabs and a bottle of cleaning fluid in both of my camera bags. (Thanks to Jeff at ProTog in Melbourne for telling me about these kits!) There is no downside to buying and having the VSGO cleaning kit with you, so I award it five out of five stars!

    The post VSGO Camera Sensor Cleaning Kit Review by Sime appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    In this article, I’m going to talk about photography from a cyclist’s perspective, rather than the other way around. So here are some photography tips for cyclists to get the most of out of your cycling journeys.

    There are many reasons why people take up cycling; to get fit, lose weight, explore new places, and to have the feelings of exhilaration and freedom are among them. One thing exercise does for you is put you in touch with your own body and highlight any health issues you may have. For photographers, it also opens creative opportunities. On a bike, you’ll travel farther than you can by foot and see more than you would when driving. You can also stop more easily than you can in a car and aren’t forced to bypass great pictures.

    6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Cyclists tend to want slightly different things than regular photographers; they’re looking to record their adventure, rather than passively photograph what’s around them. That adventure might include an amazing sunset or two, but there will be more emblematic photos of cycling itself. Often the bike will be included in the picture, which has more aesthetic appeal to cyclists than non-cyclists. Cycling companions may also feature, of course.

    #1 – Camera choices for cyclists

    A touring cyclist that bedecks his/her bike with panniers may decide to carry an SLR on a cycling trip. However, most cyclists are looking for a camera that’s light and compact enough to fit in a jersey pocket. A smartphone is an obvious choice since it’s likely to be carried anyway. However, photographers may prefer something with a bigger sensor and higher image quality.

    There are a couple of candidates that immediately spring to mind as ideal cyclists’ cameras. The first of these is any of the Sony RX100 series. These are slim enough to be easily carried in a pocket, while also offering high image quality through a relatively large sensor. I sometimes carry this camera, which replaced an old Panasonic LX3. The latter was also okay, but lumpier than the Sony and less easy and comfortable to slip into a pocket.

    6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Sony Cyber-Shot RX100 MK I

    Choosing a light camera is especially desirable if you climb a lot of hills when cycling since gravity becomes your worst enemy. It’s no coincidence that the world’s fastest climbers among cyclists are either skinny, short, or both. Even if you’re slim, you don’t want to carry more weight on your bike than is necessary. Along flat roads, this is less of an issue, as wind resistance becomes the biggest obstacle to your effort.

    A second camera that is popular among cyclists is the Ricoh GR. This camera isn’t quite as compact as the Sony RX100 but it is ruggedly constructed and offers high image quality. The Ricoh has a fixed wide-angle lens as opposed to the zoom of the Sony, so is a little less versatile. I haven’t used a modern Ricoh GR but can attest to the quality of these cameras having once owned a film version.

    #2 – Cycling effort and its effect on creativity

    All cyclists enjoy riding their bike, but their reasons for doing so are often quite different. A performance cyclist who trains for races will very often not stop once during a ride, regardless of its length. Such a rider will typically go on long, moderately paced rides to build endurance as well as some high-intensity rides to improve strength and speed. Rides with a relaxed pace are more conducive to taking photos than those where the cyclist is barely able to converse.

    Rides with a relaxed pace are more conducive to taking photos than those where the cyclist is barely able to converse.

    6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Touring cyclists, I’d contest, are in a better position to take good photos, since they’re predisposed to admiring their surroundings and less bothered about performance. I’ve tried fast rides (“fast” only to me) and find it immensely difficult to stop during the effort, take a decent picture and move on. Whether it’s lack of oxygen to the brain or low glycogen levels, I always feel my chances of a good picture are reduced on faster rides. Photography, being a contemplative sort of pastime, needs a certain amount of attention before it can be done well.

    Photography, being a contemplative sort of pastime, needs a certain amount of attention for it to be done well.

    6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    The very act of getting up early for a bike ride may result in photos that you wouldn’t otherwise get. One type of motivation very often benefits another. Thus, even if you’re going on a fast group ride, there might be the chance of a good picture before you even reach the meeting point. Big cycling sportives, which are as much social events as athletic, should also provide a chance for good photos and are usually purposely designed to take in impressive scenery.

    Big cycling sportives, which are as much social events as they are athletic ones, should also provide a chance for good photos and are usually purposely designed to take in some impressive scenery.

    early morning photography - 6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Early morning bike rides for me often involve crossing the misty River Seine.

    #3 – Planning rides for photography

    Cycling adventurers like to explore new roads whenever possible. It’s fun to do this without any preplanning just by taking a random turn here and there. However, you can also plan a route on your computer using tools like Google Maps, MapMyRide, Ride with GPS, and Strava Route Builder. If you have a bike computer capable of navigation, you can load a route into the computer in the form of a TCX or GPX file and then follow its course out on the road.

    Strava route builder cycling photography - 6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Strava Route Builder, which lets you create routes and download them for use in a GPS bike computer.

    Some bike computers will randomly generate a route for you, though they might take you along roads or through areas that are unsafe, so you must be a bit wary of that. If you really want to predict photo opportunities, an app such as LightTrac (or PhotoPills) will tell you what time the light will be at its best at any given location. Not everyone wants to plan their journey down to the finest detail, but the possibility does exist.

    #4 – Bike Preparation

    Non-cyclists are unlikely to “get” this, but people who love to ride bikes also tend to like looking at them. Most cyclists appreciate a stylish or characterful bike. So, what is the best way to prepare a bike for photography?

    Here are some slightly tongue-in-cheek details that may make a bike portrait look better:

    • Remove any bidons (water bottles) from their cages for the picture.
    • Ensure the saddle is level.
    • Cut any excess from the steerer tube (an untidy protrusion that often exists when handlebars are lowered).
    • Match the colour of the handlebar tape to the saddle.
    • Line the pedal cranks up with the chain stay so they don’t cut across the bike frame (manufacturers do this in catalogue photos).
    • Install matching tires.
    • Remove saddle bags for the photo. (Impractical for fully loaded touring bikes.)
    • Gum wall tires outline the shape of the wheels nicely, but don’t hide dirt very well. They tend to offer a plusher ride, so you might buy them for aesthetics and comfort. Make sure they’re clean.
    fixie bike portrait cycling photography - 6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Portrait of a single-speed “fixie” bike, often considered to be the height of urban cool.

    Clearly, these are not all things that can be addressed out on the road, and you can attend to any or none of them as you please. The stuff you carry on a bike might be part of your adventure, so whether you remove it or not will depend on the story you’re trying to tell. On a bike ride of a couple of hours, most people don’t carry much, so don’t need to include it in a picture.

    mountain bike photography touring cycling - 6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Bike luggage is part of the story when touring.

    #5 – Background and composition

    However good your bike looks, you’ll let it down if you don’t set it against a pleasing background. If the background complements the color of the bike, so much the better. Nice light helps, too.

    If you’re traveling, of course, you’ll want to include some scenery in the picture or any iconic buildings and monuments. The same rules that apply elsewhere also apply here. Keep the composition as simple as possible and don’t include clutter or any unnecessary elements. Pay attention to detail and remove litter and unwanted objects. Use roads to create strong diagonals, which will lead the eye into the picture.

    6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    Cyclists well positioned along a road that leads the eye into the picture.

    #6 – Photos on the move

    Though it’s highly inadvisable among traffic, a lot of cyclists can handle their bikes well enough to be able to take a photo while moving. There are several possibilities here:

    • When moving at the same pace as a companion, you’ll be able to take a portrait with a motion-blurred background.
    • You can take photos of a cycling group up ahead, preferably on a quiet road or cycling path where you don’t endanger yourself or them by taking the photo.
    • You can take a selfie while riding, either from side-on or from the front. Holding the camera/phone at a high angle will capture any cyclists behind you, too.
    • When you’re riding with sympathetic companions, set the camera up before moving for a particular type of shot. For instance, a slow shutter speed will enable you to take a portrait while maximizing the effect of movement.
    cycling photography group rides - 6 Photography Tips for Cyclists

    When it’s safe to do so, you may want to photograph other participants in a group ride.

    Other photo ideas and summary

    There are various other types of pictures you might take as a cyclist. If you puncture a tire, you could photograph your bike in its state of disrepair and record the process of fixing it. Then there’s the obligatory café stop that’s part of the group-riding culture.

    Photographic subjects on a bike ride are almost limitless, but those most relevant to your journey will often be bridges, roads, tracks, trails, grass banks, sweeping fields and vistas, wildflowers, woodlands, road signs, traffic, tanned legs and cool sunglasses.

    Most of all, enjoy your cycling and your photography. The two go hand in hand once you’ve found the right balance of exercise and creativity. Please share your cycling photos and tips below.

    The post 6 Photography Tips for Cyclists by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • 12 Tips for Practicing Good Camera Etiquette When Photographing Events

    It’s easy to get excited about having a good camera you can take with you to various events and activities. Being able to record the event in images to print or share is exciting and sometimes a nice thing to do for the people holding the event. But do you follow good camera etiquette? And what does that even entail? Let’s have a look.

    camera etiquette - concert photograph

    Low light situation with bright coloured stage lights made this shot difficult. I wanted to capture the colours of the lights, so I chose not to use my flash.

    People attending the event may appreciate being on the other side of your lens. Some people are uncomfortable when faced with big professional looking cameras. Other people just want you to sit down and stop blocking the view for everyone behind you.

    It can be a challenge to balance your desire to capture those special moments against a level of intrusiveness into the occasion. What are your options? What should you consider in advance?

    camera etiquette - 2 ladies dancing

    #1 – Is it appropriate?

    Some religious ceremonies may not be the place to take a camera along. Photographing other people’s children is now something to be done with caution for a variety of security reasons. Are you blocking the view of other participants? Are you being a distraction? Have you just blinded everyone with your flash?

    Were you asked to bring your camera along to the event and shoot? Have you got permission or approval to be shooting? These days it can be assumed that images will be shared online, not everyone may want to have their images shared, or to be tagged or identified in some way.

    You can share relevant images of an event without showing the faces of attendees

    #2 – Use discretion in your approach

    So you rock up with a big DSLR body, big long lens, and your camera is clicking away audibly over the hushed sounds in a church. People are looking at you over their shoulder, others are grumbling about you being in their way. Maybe your flash just scared the birthday boy and he is now crying and scared? Sound familiar?

    Being there with your camera doesn’t give you the right to impose or interfere with the event. Even a professional wedding photographer is there to be discrete, to capture the images without being the focus of the event. So standing up in the audience, blocking the view behind you isn’t okay. Distracting the performers or people involved with the loud shutter sound is not okay. Getting in the way of people to get the perfect shot is not the point of the event from everyone else’s point of view. They probably paid to be there too.

    If you can’t get into the front row easily, if you feel you have to use your flash in a dark venue, if you are getting in the way of attendees or other people, then learn to identify a better time and place to be shooting. Enjoy the event instead and put the camera away.

    good camera etiquette

    Flash was used in this instance with the permission of the dancer, who was performing for our camera club. I specifically wanted to throw the background into darkness so the bright colours of her outfit glowed.

    #3 – Get permission

    Have you checked that cameras and photography will even be allowed at the event? Plenty of concerts, plays and similar events specifically ban photography. Sometimes they will announce it on stage before the curtain rises. Some venues specifically ban professional looking equipment, so are you prepared to have yours confiscated at the gate?

    Depending on the country you live in, people have rights over how images of them are used. So they have the right to deny you the ability to take shots of them, especially at a private or family event. Not only should you ask for permission to shoot in advance, you should also clarify about what will happen to the images. Will you be sharing them online? Are people okay with that? Do you have model releases for images you might want to use commercially or in competitions?

    good camera etiquette

    This steampunk lady and her partner not only agreed to pose, they also signed model releases for me.

    Are you shooting architecture? Have you checked what approvals may be required? Many buildings that you may assume have public access are actually privately owned. Some do have limitations on photography, especially if it’s a busy space and you want to set up a tripod in the middle of it. It is easy to think you have the right to shoot anywhere you want, but to avoid an uncomfortable situation with a security guard or police, do your homework in advance.

    good camera etiquette

    A day out shooting airsoft was lots of fun – I was taken along by one of the organizers who made sure I followed all the safety protocols.

    #4 – Flash is rarely a good idea

    Many events are held in quite dark spaces like; concerts, plays, musical events, sports, dancing, etc. Everyone in the audience is sitting in the dark, watching the action happen under the stage lights. Imagine how annoying it must be for someone to stand near the edge of the stage and light up the place with a camera flash repeatedly. Imagine how annoying and distracting (and potentially dangerous) it must be for the performers to have the flash bombarding them.

    If you are in a low light situation where you cannot obtain good images with the gear you have, then put it away. If you need to do a lot of low light work, you may want to consider investing in a body with good ISO performance and a fast prime lens. But otherwise, don’t be the jerk with the camera spoiling it for everyone else by having your own fireworks show while you are trying to shoot.

    good camera etiquette

    Shooting an indoor swing dance event using a 50mm f/1.4 prime lens to maximize the use of available light and reduce the need to use flash allowed for more intimate images, as the dancers didn’t notice I was there most of the time.

    #5 – Avoid conflict

    Are you at a wedding or other event where a professional shooter has been engaged? Did you go up to them, introduce yourself, mention you had a camera and ask if it was alright with them if you grabbed a few frames for your own personal records? Did you gracefully put your camera away when they said no, that they didn’t appreciate an amateur getting in the way? Do you respect the wishes of the people organizing the event and allow the professional to do their job?

    Did you avoid conflict with someone being paid to do their job, or did you cause a scene or aggravate them with your attitude? Were you professional?

    If someone asked you not to take photos of them, did you agree? If someone asked you not to post images of them online, did you shrug and do it anyway? Did you consider your right to shoot and post more important than that of the people whose images you are using to promote yourself?

    Are you covered legally if something bad happens as a result of your photography interference?

    good camera etiquette.

    This lady walked into my shot and is saying oops!

    #6 – Participate and be present

    How many times do you get asked along to a family event or social occasion? A few?  People are generally pleased to see you and chat and catch up about things. What happens when you bring your camera out? Are people then avoiding you? Do the invites stop coming?

    Ask yourself an important question at any event you are tempted to take your camera along to – especially if it involves family or friends. What is more important – the people you are with and the event you are celebrating or is it your camera and photography?

    Sometimes it is more appropriate for you to leave the camera behind, to actually be present and participate in the moment. To talk to and connect with people without the barrier of a camera lens between you.

    Pick your occasions, your sister may be delighted by your offer to shoot your niece’s first school play outing (but the school or the other parents may not be). Or you could sit in the audience and enjoy the special moment for what it is.

    good camera etiquette

    Don’t forget to enjoy the barbecue!

    #7 – Personal security

    Walking the streets, or being in a big crowd with expensive camera gear hanging off your shoulder can be a dangerous exercise. Camera gear is obvious, people see you using it, and the big flashy stuff is usually worth a reasonable amount. Are you paying attention to your personal security and that of your gear? Do you want to be out alone at night in the city getting the gritty street shots?

    Traveling to other countries is exciting, but they have different laws and situations. Have you studied in advance to make sure you are not causing any offences? Do you walk around with big branded straps on your camera and on your bags? Are you a walking advertisement for expensive camera gear just waiting to be grabbed when you leave it on a chair in a restaurant? Dress to blend in when you can.

    camera etiquette

    #8 – Don’t waste people’s time

    Is your camera all set up and good to go for the lighting conditions you might encounter? Or are you standing there fiddling with the buttons while your subjects stand there awkwardly, wondering what’s going on?

    good camera etiquette

    Be ready to capture the best and most genuine smiles.

    #9 – Engage your subject

    This may well depend on the circumstances, but an image of someone looking at the camera and sharing some emotion makes for a far more powerful image, than a furtive capture from the sidelines. Take the time to say hello, introduce yourself, and explain why you are taking pictures.

    Ask their name, if they are okay with you photographing them. Talk a bit about the event, get them interacting with you. Be sincere, everyone has an interesting story to tell, if only you take the time to listen. A few minutes is all it takes but the difference in the quality of the images will be huge. Plus it’s polite to treat people like people, and not just objects for your photography amusement.

    good camera etiquette

    I spent an afternoon with these lovely ladies at a Zombie Run and we had lots of time to get to know each other. So they were happy to spend some time lurching towards my camera when I proposed the idea.

    #10 – Don’t compete for attention

    If there are several photographers at an event clamouring for attention, you will get different people looking in different directions within the same image. The end result is not as nice as it can be, and can matter for things like group wedding shots. So wait your turn to get in front of the subject, don’t try to shoot at the same time as someone else (especially a hired pro doing their job!), and potentially ruin both your images.

    good camera etiquette

    I have the attention of two of the three guys, the one on the right is looking at another shooter next to me.

    #11 – Take no for an answer

    Some people hate having their photo taken, regardless of the situation or approach. There are many reasons for people not to want to be in front of your camera, so be respectful of their wishes. If they ask you to delete any images they are in from your memory card, then do it. If asked not to post images of people online, don’t. Your rights as a photographer are not more important than those of the your subjects.

    good camera etiquette

    #12 – Act professional even if you aren’t a pro

    Lots of photographers hope to make money out of their hobby and interacting with customers is a key part of the business. Even if you are new and learning, be professional and courteous. Eventually when you are taking paying customers, you will have developed good habits and hopefully a good reputation as well. It will pay off. Have a business card with some contact information to assure people you aren’t a creep with a camera, but a genuine photographer. Who knows, it might also generate some new business for you.

    good camera etiquette - dance troupe

    This troupe performed at an event I was at and while I was taking some portraits in the lobby they saw me and asked me to photograph them. As I was happy to do that, then they asked if I could get a shot of this guy doing a high kick. The lighting was terrible and my camera wasn’t really up to it, but I agreed, took a few shots, and emailed the best ones to them the next day.

    Conclusion

    Remember that when you turn up at an event with your camera, it isn’t about you and your photography. It’s about recording the event in a way that doesn’t interfere with it, or disturb the other people or patrons attending. Respect people’s wishes and privacy, ask permission, follow good camera etiquette and everyone will be a lot happier about the situation. Don’t be a jerk, no one appreciates that.

    The post 12 Tips for Practicing Good Camera Etiquette When Photographing Events by Stacey Hill appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    Have you ever received a beautiful bunch of flowers and wondered how they might look frozen solid? No? Well, me neither! Actually, up until recently, I was more interested in keeping flowers in a good old conventional vase. But photographers are a mighty creative bunch. Provided with some of nature’s most basic ingredients, we put our heads together and discovered an amazing way to create such wonderfully abstract photographs of frozen flowers. And with such beautiful results, I wish I had started stowing my floral bouquets in the freezer sooner!

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    Supplies

    You will need:

    • Flowers
    • Freezer
    • Water
    • Container
    • Camera

    Method

    Getting started

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    There are a few methods I’ve encountered for preparing photo-ready frozen flowers. One of those methods involves the use of liquid nitrogen, but I’m going with something a little less technical. To fully encase your beautiful flowers in a block of ice, you’ll need to gradually build up the surrounding layers of ice. Usually, you could go about filling any old tray with water, throwing it in the freezer and forgetting about it until summer. However, flowers contain oxygen, and oxygen is lighter than water. This means that chucking flowers into a full bowl of water and freezing it over is a no-go. The flowers will simply bob to the surface, stick out of the ice and wither away.

    Anchoring your flowers

    Instead, have a dig in your Tupperware drawer. I’ve found that a wide and relatively shallow plastic container works best, depending on freezer space. Fill your container with a few centimeters of water. Tap water has a foggier appearance when frozen, so use distilled water if you want a glossier effect. Place your flowers face-down in the water, arrange them how you like, and place the container in the freezer. The small amount of water will freeze over, trapping parts of the flowers and anchoring them so that they can’t float in subsequent layers of water.

    Retrieve the container after a couple of hours, making sure the flowers are partially frozen to the ice in the container. Once the flowers are secured, pour a few extra centimeters of cool water over the flowers and existing ice. Be careful not to add too much though – the ice below can thaw and release the flowers, starting the whole process again. Return the container to the freezer.

    Flowers fixed in place by a few centimeters of frozen water

    Final stages

    After another couple of hours (you guessed it) take the container out of the freezer again and add a few more centimeters of water. This time, you can add as much water as you like. But remember, the thicker the ice, the harder it will be for light to pass through the frozen block, cutting down the amount of light which will reach your camera’s sensor. However, ice will melt over time, so adding more water is better than adding too little. When you have added the last layer of water, take your container and pop it back in the freezer one last time.

    Once the uppermost layer is frozen, remove the container from the freezer and let it sit for 10 minutes or so. After the ice has separated from the container, turn the container upside down over a cloth. Gently tap the container and the ice should slide out. Voila, behold the beautiful results of your hard work!

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    In this image, the base of the container has created an impression in the ice. You can even out the surface by rubbing a warm dampened cloth over the uneven imprint.

    Photographing your creation

    Now that you’ve created your icy flower sculpture, it’s time to photograph it before it melts. I recommend positioning your ice block near a light source or window with natural light coming through. This allows light to penetrate the ice and the membrane of the flowers to create a more detailed subject. For my photographs, I leaned my frozen flower block against the glass petitions of my apartment balcony. Be sure to put a towel underneath the ice to avoid a wet puddle.

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    Positioning the frozen block of flowers against natural light illuminates the details and varying tones in the image.

    Experiment!

    Now that you have the technique down, have a go with different combinations of flowers and containers. Depending on the shape and length of a container, you can manipulate the density and trajectory of bubble trails frozen in the ice. Try adjusting the orientation of the container, or breaking and refreezing the ice.

    To make the rounded point encasing the rose head below, I lined the inside of a glass cup with a plastic bag. After anchoring the flower head to the first few frozen centimeters of ice, I gradually built up the layers of water to completely cover the rose. The air that escaped the rose was squeezed out and trapped inside the base of the glass, creating intricate patterns around the rose head. To make the ice more rounded, I simply wore the edges down with my hand for a minute or two.

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    The long bubbles suspended over the rose head are the paths of oxygen trying to escape

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    Line the inside of a glass cup so that the flower is easier to remove once it is completely encased in ice.

    Once completely frozen, I let the glass sit at room temperature, gently tugging on the plastic bag every 10 minutes or so. Eventually the plastic bag became separated from the glass, and I carefully lifted the ice from the cup, revealing the beautifully encased flower inside.

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    A single rose, completely frozen after being positioned vertically in a glass cup.

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    As water freezes, oxygen is squeezed out of the flower, leaving beautiful trails in the ice.

    Conclusion

    Frozen flower photography is a super simple way to give your floral images a unique edge. With a few simple tools found in the kitchen and a pretty selection of flowers, you can create a countless variety of beautifully intricate photographs. Whether you are looking to update your portfolio or searching for something to do on a rainy day, these eye-catching floral sculptures are definitely worth braving the cold.

    Share your frozen flower photos in the comments below! You could also give this a try: How to do Frozen Object Photography at Home.

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    The combination of ice and organic material is simple and striking, even as the ice begins to crack.

    How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers

    A small section of an autumn leaf protrudes from the ice.

    The post How to do Photography of Frozen Flowers by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Photo Editing Alternative – An Overview of ACDSee Ultimate 10

    As more and more people take up digital photography and want to get started editing, many are asking the question, are Adobe’s Lightroom and Photoshop my only options? ­­­At ACD Systems, they have their own editing software called ACDSee Ultimate 10, which allows you to do many of the same functions as the former.

    Adobe’s subscription model—membership and monthly payments—is a big turn off to many, particularly because if the price becomes too high, it will become unattainable, and then they will be left with nothing. We have already seen some price hikes recently. ACDSee Ultimate 10 could be perfect for those looking for an alternative to what Adobe offers.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Starting Up ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Without a doubt, you will scratch your head as you try to work out how to do things in ACDSee Ultimate 10, but this can be said for any new software you try. If you have used Lightroom, then much of it should be easy to work out, and there are a lot of similarities. If you have not used it or any other photo editing programs, then you will find a wide range of videos on their website to take you through how to use ACDSee Ultimate 10 and understand it.

    One of the biggest problems with Lightroom is how you must import your photos into it. With Ultimate 10, there is no need to import your photos as they are read directly off of your hard drive and displayed in the exact same folder structure you see in Windows Explorer (or Mac Finder). This saves you one step altogether, however, there is also an import function available, which you can use to apply some batch functions, such as renaming while extracting the photos off of your device.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    What Manage Mode first looks like when you open ACDSee Ultimate 10.

    Parametric Processing

    As you work your way through the videos, you will hear a lot about parametric processing. If you are like me, you have never heard the term before. It is another way of saying non-destructive, or in easy terms, you can save all your layers so you can go back to it and work on it some more, later.

    Using ACDSee Ultimate 10

    There are obvious differences between ACDSee Ultimate 10 and Lightroom, but you are also going to find a lot that is similar—perhaps even better. When you open it up, you can see in the top right corner the different modes that are available: Manage, Photos, View, Develop, and Edit. We will take a look at each mode and see how they compare with Lightroom and a little of Photoshop.

    It is fair to say that Photoshop does offer a lot more than this program. However, as many people prefer using Lightroom, this could be a really good alternative for them. You can certainly do all the same edits that you can do with Lightroom. However, it’s when you start getting into the more advanced image manipulating where you would normally use Photoshop that you may find limitations withACDSee Ultimate 10.

    See a feature comparison between Lightroom and ACDSee Ultimate here.

    Manage Mode

    The Manage Mode is very similar to the first window you find when you open Lightroom, the Library Module. On the left, you see a column with all of the folders on your computer. It displays the folder structure you have on your hard drive, so there is no searching through unfamiliar territory. The way Lightroom does this can be confusing and it can be hard to find directories.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10 - manage mode

    Taking a look around to see what is in Manage Mode.

    Underneath the above, you will find details about the selected image, such as the camera model, the size of the image, and what your settings were. Then under that, you will find a histogram of the image.

    The middle section is where you see the contents of the selected folder and any subdirectories that may be in it. Each thumbnail indicates what type of file it is, RAW, PSD, etc. It is still possible to put ratings and labels and such on your images. There are categories and keywords that Lightroom users will be familiar with, which can be used the same way in Ultimate 10. This section works like a proofing sheet, which allows you to see all of the images in the folder.

    In Lightroom, you can get a preview of the image by pressing the spacebar, however, in Ultimate 10 you use View mode to get a larger view of your images. To get there you can double click or press enter with the desired image selected. In the right-hand column, all the EXIF data that is available in the image is found there. There is the same additional information that you find available in Lightroom.

    Photos Mode

    In this mode, you will get a small preview of every image that you have on your computer. It is almost like a list, in order. The images will be sorted by the date they were taken, and you can do rearrange to sort by day, month, or year. It is a great way to help you find photos when you can’t remember where you put them, especially if you’re like me and don’t use categories or keywords.

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    How Photo Mode appears.

    In Lightroom, you could only do this with the photos that you have imported. In Ultimate 10, it doesn’t matter; it will show every image that is on your computer.

    View Mode

    In View Mode, you will get a larger view of the selected image. Underneath the image, there is a filmstrip with all the photos in the selected folder so that you can navigate between them. There are also some basic functions you can apply to the image if you want to make some changes. However, this mode is more for viewing your photos and figuring out which ones you might want to work on.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Opening View Mode.

    In this mode, you can add ratings, labels, and set your categories. To rate an image, click Ctrl/Cmd plus the number you want to assign to it, or to label an image press Alt/Option then the number according to the color you want to apply. You can do many other things to the image as well. There is a small menu on the left just above the filmstrip, or you can right-click on the image to get options as well.

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    Some of the functions you can do in View Mode.

    Develop Mode

    This is the mode that seems to most resemble Lightroom and is your workspace. It is laid out differently and you will find all the adjustments in the left-hand column. Many of them are the same, though to get to each of the sections you will find these modes; Tune, Detail, Geometry, and Repair near the top that you click for various adjustments. Each one of those modes have different tools you can use to make the various changes to your images.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Opening an image in Develop Mode.

    A lot of the processes are set out differently, but they often have the same names. There are titles for each one which, like Lightroom, are menus and when you click on them new adjustments can be accessed. The plus sign means it is closed and when it’s opened, it turns into to a minus sign.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Looking around Develop Mode and the Tune Mode.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    What is available in Detail Mode.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    What you can do in Geometry Mode.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    A quick look at Repair Mode.

    Develop Presets

    In ACDSee Ultimate 10, you can save your develop settings as presets, either globally by mode (Tune, Detail, Geometry, Repair) or by tool group.  You can then apply saved presets to a single image, or a batch of images in Manage Mode.

    Develop Brush, Linear Gradient, and Radial Gradient

    These three tools similar to Lightroom’s Adjustment Brush, Graduated Filter, and Radial Filter. They can seem a little strange at first if you are used to Lightroom. The Develop Brush doesn’t have an erase button, so how do you remove the parts you did by mistake? By right clicking and going over the part you no longer want. This is actually much better, and makes your workflow much faster.

    In Lightroom, when you want to use the Graduated and Radial filters, you click on them and then draw a line on your image. With Ultimate 10, once you click the Gradient button, the Gradient will appear on your image, and then you move it, enlarge or shrink it, or rotate it to where you want. There are specific places on the gradient to do that. The cross in the middle is used to move it, the hook from the cross rotates it, and the squares on the dotted lines are used to resize it. It is different but doesn’t take long to get used to. If you want more than one gradient, you will find a section with the icon and a blank square above it. To apply another brush, just enable the next checkbox.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    How the Graduated Filter works.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    How the Radial Filter works.

    To make them disappear once you are done, click on the icon for the tool and the program will unselect it.

    Edit Mode

    Edit Mode is very similar to Photoshop, however, again, it is set out a bit differently. In this mode, you can do a lot of fine-tuning. You can use layers and make adjustments.

    The tools are along the top under the menu bar, and the edits that are available are down the left side. On the right, you will find your layers panel, and the layered adjustments are down the bottom of that panel. Underneath those, you will find where you can add new layers, masks, or duplicate layers.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Opening up into Edit Mode.

    When you have different layers, you will also find the rubbish (trash) button will appear there. Highlight the layer you want to delete, and press the button. Though you could simply press delete on your keyboard as well.

    The feathering option is different and you don’t set how much you want to feather until you have added the mask. You press the mask button and the settings for it will appear at the bottom of the layers panel.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Adding layers in Edit Mode.

    Edit Presets/Actions

    While you can also save presets in Edit mode, perhaps even more useful is the tool they developed to address the general limitations of batch editing. ACDSee Actions allow you to “record” any and all adjustments you make in Edit mode, and then to apply them to other images, (individually or to a batch), by “playing” them back (like Actions in Photoshop). It’s as simple as pressing a Record button before you start editing, pressing Stop when you’re done, and then choosing a name to save the action under.

    If you forgot to begin recording before you started editing, you can simply use the Undo button, press Record, and then press the Redo button. You can even preview the effect that an action is going to have on an image before applying it. This really speeds things up and ensures that you can apply anything in a batch.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Using Actions.

    Overall Impressions of ACDSee Ultimate 10

    Without a doubt, ACDSee Ultimate 10 is a good alternative to Lightroom. It has a lot of similar functions, and many of the things that you do in the first, you can do in the second. How you use it is always going to be different and finding your way around the settings and functions will take time, but that is the same with any software.

    If you are someone that doesn’t use Photoshop but you would like to start working with layers, then Ultimate 10 could be a good way to start.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    The final image.

    Owning or Renting

    With the latest release of Lightroom, everyone was told that it would be the final one that you would be able to buy outright. All future releases will come under the Creative Cloud subscription plans. This has made a lot of people nervous. Meanwhile, many are frustrated that while they have purchased it, there are still functions that are only available if you subscribe to Adobe.

    At ACD Systems, they understand this frustration, and you can buy all their products so you own them. Or, if you want the benefit of getting updates and having the latest version, you can also subscribe. The choice is yours.

    If you are unsure of what to do, their Live Chat is available, along with email and phone numbers for you to call as well. To take a look at the Ultimate 10 follow this link, ACDSee Ultimate 10.

    ACDSee Ultimate 10

    A quick look at the website where you can find videos.

    Finally

    ACDSee Ultimate 10 is a great program for anyone who wants to get into photo editing. While there is a learning curve, that is true for any other editing software that is available. For most photographers, Ultimate 10 will have everything they need to do the image adjustments they would like. Give it a try and tell us what you think.

    Disclaimer: ACD Systems is a paid partner of dPS

    The post Photo Editing Alternative – An Overview of ACDSee Ultimate 10 by Leanne Cole appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Lighting 103: Avoiding Cross Contamination

    Abstract: When complementary-gelled lights are falling on the same plane, they can easily rob each other of color. So it is important to make sure your lights are hitting different areas, with minimal overlap.

    Above is a two-speedlight portrait against a white wall. White walls are the natural enemy of a gel, and practically live to wash out your color. Especially when using two flashes with dense, complementary gels. Knowing how to keep your multi-colored lights operating on different planes will help you retain more saturated color.

    Let's walk through the portrait above to get a better look at how our two lights are working separately—and together—in a variety of ways.Read more »
    Strobist

  • Hiking Cameras Compared

    If you’re looking for the best hiking camera to take with you on your future treks, then you’re going to need one that’s fit for hiking. There’s a difference between a good camera and a good camera for hiking, and this is what this guide is going to be able to answer for you. First, we need to look at Continue Reading

    The post Hiking Cameras Compared appeared first on Photodoto.


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  • DEAL: Save 62% on Our Lightroom Presets Today

    $  19 Presets

    This week as part of our Mid Year Sale we’re excited to offer you any of our Lightroom Preset packs at a massive 62% discount.

    Yesterdays deal on our eBook range had an overwhelming response (we were a little worried our servers wouldn’t cope for a while there) but today we’re taking things up a notch with an offer that those of you who use Lightroom will love.

    For the next 30 hours you can pick up any one of our 101 Presets collections for just $ 19 USD.

    They normally retail for $ 49 so this deal is a steal – grab yours here.

    These beautiful presets have been created by some of our favourite photographers, so that you can convert your photos from average to amazing with just one click, saving you a whole lot of processing time.

    Here are the 3 presets packs you can choose from:

    • 101 Lightroom Presets by Cole Joseph (a great all round pack for all kinds of photography)
    • 101 Landscape Lightroom Presets by Todd and Sarah Sisson
    • 101 Lightroom Portrait Presets by Rachel Devine

    Each pack contains 101 presets that we guarantee to make your pictures pop and save you enormous amounts of time post processing your images.

    But don’t wait too long to get your presets – this deal ends in just on 30 hours from now!

    Note: You’ll need a copy of Adobe Lightroom to be able to use these presets, and as always, we offer a 60 day satisfaction guarantee on these presets.

    The post DEAL: Save 62% on Our Lightroom Presets Today by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    Get 53% OFF Kevin’s Long Exposure Photography eBook on sale now at SnapnDeals until July 11th.

    First of all, I want to clarify for you what type of long exposure photography this article discusses.

    You won’t be learning any techniques regarding the creation of photographs at night, or in the low light levels that you might experience with architectural interiors, (even though those examples do require longer exposures).

    No, the type long exposure photography that this article refers to most often occurs in bright daylight.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    Perhaps, you’ve already studied up a bit on this genre of photography? Maybe you’re familiar with the streaking clouds and creamy waves of water, which are often depicted in long exposure photographs.

    The reason that the long exposure technique is so awesome, is that it creates an illusion of motion in a still image. That look of motion creates a visual presence that is virtually impossible to mimic using post-processing software.

    You may have even purchased gear for long exposure photography such as; neutral density filters, graduated neutral density filters, a camera release, and a good sturdy tripod. Once you know how to assemble all of that gear, it seems like the photo creation process should be pretty straightforward. Right?

    Well, it’s not. And, you likely realize this if you’ve been disappointed in some of your results.

    A photographic fail that often occurs in long exposure photography is because of the subject selection, and that’s what you will be learning about in this article. You’re going to get some important tips on how to evaluate and choose, a subject for the best long exposure photography.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    Selecting a subject for long exposure photography

    Subject selection is extremely important to successful long exposure photography. In fact, the subject selection process is so important that it can radically alter the technical steps in your creation of the image.

    First, and foremost, in the subject selection process is that something needs to be moving. It’s the motion that creates the tension in the composition. You probably already realize that there needs to be motion.

    The second, and perhaps less obvious component is that some element of the photograph should be rock steady. This isn’t an absolute, and sometimes if everything is moving it can lead to some pretty cool results. However, in general, you will want some aspect of your photograph to be rock steady and sharp.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    The image above is an example of a long exposure photograph where everything is moving. It’s a pretty cool result. However, if you’re not interested in an abstract look something needs to be still and sharp in your image. Otherwise, your photograph will simply look out of focus.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    Look for contrast

    The next important factor is to search for contrast.

    With long exposure photography, you will often be pointing your lens at clouds, water, or moving crowds of people. The movement of these subjects, as they blend through the image (as a result of their motion), tends to fall into the highlight end of the histogram scale (very light tones to absolute white).

    Look at the image above. You’ll notice that most of the movement is captured in the bright highlight to the upper mid-tone scale of the histogram.

    If you don’t want your photograph to look flat you need some tones on the far shadow end of the histogram. Some good solid shadows, or dark objects, are needed to balance off the highlights. If you don’t include something on the dark end of the scale, your image may look lackluster.

    How do you accomplish that? Primarily, through your choice of the angle between the camera point-of-view, the subject, and the light source. A proper angle creates shadowing.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    In lieu of that, you can also manipulate tones in post-production to create a full range of tonality.

    The main point

    If you’re looking at your scene, and you hold your arms out straight to the left and right, the light source should be coming from somewhere in front of your arms. If the light source is behind your arms, it will likely not provide you with the contrast that you’re looking for through shadowing.

    There is one exception.

    If the scene contains objects that are dark or very black, then the angle of the light becomes less important- as those photographic elements will provide the necessary contrast.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    In this image, there was almost no directional light for this long exposure shot. This resulted in very low contrast.

    Although the image above could have been made using much shorter exposure time, it was important to give the water enough time to create the long sleek ribbons of highlights. This image was exposed for 30 seconds.

    The original camera raw file was completely flat in contrast. There were plenty of highlights to work with (as a result of the long exposure technique), however, there were no contrasting shadows, and they had to be created in post-production.

    Angle of view

    Your next concern in subject selection is the angle of view from the camera to the source of the movement.

    If you look at the left image below, the red arrows point toward the photographic elements that were intended to highlight the long exposure effect. Yet, you can barely see the effect.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    There are two factors that will control how well you will see the effect in your long exposure efforts.

    The first issue is the length of time for the exposure. You may think to yourself, “If a 4-second exposure looks good then a 30-second exposure will look amazing!” This isn’t necessarily the case. An extended long exposure can actually wipe out the effect if it’s too long. Much depends on the overall scene.

    The second issue is the one that’s depicted above, and that is the angle of view; from the camera point of view to the elements creating the motion. If the motion is lying in a plane that is too parallel to the camera point of view, then the motion becomes minimized.

    Look at the image on the right above. In that example, the camera is looking down onto the movement. The angle between the plane of movement and the camera point of view has been increased resulting in a more dramatic capture of the motion.

    When choosing your subject, keep in mind the angle of view between the camera and the motion.

    Could the left image above been better? It could have worked out more successfully if the camera had been moved closer to the cliff.

    Could a change in the lens focal length, say to a longer telephoto, have helped? That wouldn’t have helped much as the angle of view would still be too low.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    This leads to your final decision in the subject selection process for long exposure photography.

    Lens selection

    What focal length are you going to need for your shot?

    Long exposure photography works best when using a focal length that falls somewhere between an ultra wide-angle to a very moderate telephoto lens.

    Longer telephoto lenses don’t lend themselves well to long exposure photography because they accentuate camera movement. This is true, even if you’re using a sturdy tripod and a camera release. It doesn’t take much movement to soften an exposure of 20-seconds or longer. You may not even perceive the movement.

    Vibration from the wind, or even the vibration of the ground beneath you, can ruin your images. For example, if you’re set up on a bridge deck, you may not even feel the very slight motion of the bridge in a wind or when cars pass. However, enough consistent movement of the camera will ruin a long exposure.

    Working with lenses in the 14-85mm focal length range will help you get sharp pictures. Keep this in mind as well, it’s helpful to look for a windbreak if there are any near your intended camera angle.

    Once, you’ve chosen a subject, using even slight variations on the focal length of your lens, or camera position can lead to some exciting and varied results.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    In the image above, an 18mm lens was used to capture an expansive looking landscape. The long exposure technique highlighted the waterfall, which becomes a major element of the composition, even though it is fairly small in the frame.

    How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography

    After experimenting with several longer focal length lenses, and not being happy with the results, a simple camera move of about 100 meters resulted in a much different photograph while still using the same 18mm lens.

    To summarize the key considerations for subject selection in long exposure photography:

    1. Something in the scene needs to be moving (most often clouds, water, or crowds).
    2. Unless attempting an abstract, something in the scene needs to be steady and completely in focus.
    3. Look for subjects that have natural contrast, or visualize how you will create the contrast in post-production.
    4. Select a subject, or subject angle, where the light source is not behind the camera to achieve good shadowing for contrast.
    5. Choose a subject, or camera to subject angle, that isn’t parallel to the camera point of view. You want the camera pointing downward or upward toward the subject.
    6. Choose a subject, or a camera to subject position, that allows you to use a focal length lens that falls between 14mm and 85mm. Be mindful that if you use a lens that is too wide, the effect might be pushed back and not very visible. On the other hand, if you use a lens that is too long, you may have issues with camera motion. Be experimental. Check your results right there on the camera LCD screen for sharpness and the motion effect.
    7. The Wind is always a concern in long exposure photography. When choosing your subject, look for a windbreak that you can use at the camera position.

    Get 53% OFF Kevin’s Long Exposure Photography eBook on sale now at SnapnDeals until July 11th.

     

    The post How to Select a Subject for Long Exposure Photography by Kent DuFault appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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