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How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Special Effects

26 Sep

In this article I’ll show you how to use a common household item, plastic wrap, to make creative images with colored filter special effects.

Plastic wrap (a blanket term for Saran Wrap, Glad Wrap and Cling Wrap) is a clear plastic film typically sold in rolls or boxes with a serrated edge. Usually used for sealing food items like sandwiches to keep them fresh for longer, plastic wrap is an incredibly versatile material. Great for a picnic or practical jokes, it’s also a useful tool for creative photography.

If you’re looking to add something a little different to your portfolio, plastic wrap is a simple, low-cost option. Using a rubber band, a camera, and some markers, you can easily create a colored filter out of plastic wrap – adding an experimental edge to your photographic repertoire.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Special Effects

The science

Like many great scientific discoveries, plastic wrap was discovered by accident. Ralph Wiley, a lab worker at The DOW Chemical Company was having trouble washing out a beaker which contained a substance he couldn’t scrub clean. He called the substance “Eonite” named after an indestructible substance created by chemist Eli Eon in the Little Orphan Annie comic book strip. DOW researchers adopted the substance, using it to create a greasy, dark green film they called “Saran” and shared it with the military to spray on fighter jets as a guard against sea spray.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color special Effects

A very subtle red and blue colored filter adds a little color to this image of a Ferris wheel.

Saran works by polymerizing vinylidene chloride with acrylic esters and unsaturated carboxyl groups to create chains of vinylidene chloride. What does that mean? Simply put, the process results in a film with molecules bound so tightly that very little can penetrate it. The chemists at DOW eventually removed Saran’s green color. They also removed an unpleasant odor the Saran emitted when exposed to oxygen. It was first sold for household use in 1953.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color special Effects

A surreal green shade created with a plastic wrap filter colored with green marker.

Plastic wrap in art

While handy in the lunchbox or fridge, plastic wrap is also a great material to experiment with creatively. Artists have used plastic wrap in sculpture, painting and as a prop for photography. Many well-known fashion designers have created clothing from layers of plastic cling film for the runway.

Because of its relatively clear composition, plastic wrap is great for forming a barrier between your camera lens and foreign materials. Recently, I applied a layer of Vaseline to plastic wrap stretched over the front of my camera lens. The result was a fine, misty effect without the agony of a greasy camera.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color special Effects

This image was captured using plastic wrap over the lens with a red section on the upper half and a green colored portion below.

Creating a colored special effects filter

You will need:

  • A piece of plastic wrap at least 30cm in length and width.
  • Camera and lens.
  • Permanent markers.
  • A few rubber bands.

Adding color

To create a colored filter for your camera, first you will need to add some color to your plastic wrap! The easiest way to do this is to stretch the plastic wrap over your lens and color in the plastic within the circle. However, this method is a little risky. If the plastic wrap is pierced, you will end up drawing on your lens or lens protector (cap).

Instead, take your lens cap or lens and place it on the plastic wrap. Trace a circle around the outside. Now you’ll know where you should color your plastic wrap to get full coverage of the lens. To minimize the use of plastic here, you can trace multiple outlines of your lens on the same sheet of plastic wrap as I’ve done below.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color special Effects

Use the same sheet of plastic wrap to create different effects, making it easier to keep for later and minimizing waste.

Finally, add color to the sectioned-off portion of plastic wrap, make sure you use quality permanent markers. Low-quality texters won’t leave any visible color on the plastic wrap and the ink from non-permanent markers simply slides off the plastic (onto your hands or something worse).

You can color in your circles any way you would like. For a full effect, color in the whole interior of the marked out circle with one or two colors. For a softer gradient, draw a light squiggle. You can color in the center of the circle and leave the perimeter clear, or vice versa. Don’t be afraid to experiment here!

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color special Effects

The effect of a portion of plastic wrap colored entirely green and placed over the front of the lens.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Effects

Coloring only the outer perimeter of the plastic wrap filter produces a fish-eye effect.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color special Effects

Create an eerie atmosphere with a thick layer of red permanent marker.

Time to photograph

When you are happy with the colors of your circles, select one and lay it carefully over the front of your lens. Fix the filter in place with a rubber band, but don’t pull the plastic wrap too tightly or it will split.

When the filter is fixed properly to the lens, it’s time to get photographing. Because your camera will have difficulty focusing with the layer of colored plastic wrap in the frame, you should use manual focus over automatic. Because the filter will cut down the light reaching your sensor, you may also need to increase your exposure time or adjust your aperture accordingly.

Also, be sure to check the rubber band is fitted snugly around your lens. You don’t want it to come flying off, especially when photographing portraits!

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color special Effects

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Effects

Using colored plastic wrap can add an effect imitating the light leaks produced with partially exposed film.

Finishing up

Once you are happy with your photos, take them back to have a look on your computer. As I mentioned before, the filer may cut down the amount of light reaching your sensor. This could result in photographs that lack contrast. Photoshop is your friend here.

Open your images in Photoshop and adjust the Curves layer to increase contrast. For more intense colors you may also want to adjust the Vibrance and Saturation of the image with the Vibrance and Saturation tool.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Effects

Adjust the Curves tool for more contrast in your images.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Effects

Adjust the Vibrance and Saturation tool for more intense colors.

Your Turn

Once you’ve got some quirky plastic wrap photos, please share them in the comments below. And remember to keep your filters for later. You never know when you might need them. Fold them down or scrunch them into a loose ball, they last for ages. Have fun.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Effects

An apocalyptic scene created with red ink that completely covers the plastic wrap filter.

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Effects

How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Effects

Loosely fixing colored plastic wrap to the lens, mirrors the view through a window on a rainy day.

Pulling the plastic wrap taut reduces glare.

An image with a slower shutter speed creates light trails as if looking through a window with raindrops on the outside.

The post How to Use Plastic Wrap to Create Neat Color Special Effects by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Contest – Win One of 3 Online Photography Courses from New York Institute of Photography

26 Sep

Over the last few years here at dPS, we’ve run some incredibly popular competitions with one of our partners – the New York Institute of Photography – to give away to lucky dPS readers some of their great online photography courses.

Due to popular demand – we’re doing it again this week.

Contest

Win One of THREE Online Photography Courses from New York Institute of Photography

Contest – Win One of 3 Online Photography Courses from New York Institute of Photography

For this contest, NYIP is giving away THREE prizes.

Each will be won by a different dPS reader. Here’s what you could win:

Fundamentals of Digital Photography Course – worth $ 749

This is one of NYIP’s most popular courses. The beginner digital photography course is meant to help you master your digital camera.

  • Learn the basic functions of your camera so you can begin to shoot in manual mode.
  • Professional photographers will show you how to see the world like a photographer.
  • Complete a series of photography projects that help you practice your new skills.
  • Your teacher will work with you, review your photos, and help you improve throughout the program.
  • By the time you finish, you will have the skills and knowledge to take professional-quality photographs.
  • NYIP Graduates are eligible to become certified by the Professional Photographers of America (PPA).
Contest – Win One of 3 Online Photography Courses from New York Institute of Photography

Photo Credit – Dennis Asfour

All students get the benefit of online courses they can work through at their own pace, as well as one-to-one feedback from professional photographers on their work!

Contest – Win One of 3 Online Photography Courses from New York Institute of Photography

How to Win

To win this competition you’ll need to:

Watch the video below and visit the course page HERE:

Leave a comment below and tell us why you’d like to enroll in New York Institute of Photography. Please note: there is a limit of one entry per person.

Do this in the next two weeks and then on October 15, 2017, the team at NYIP will choose the best three answers and we will announce the winners in the following days.

The deadline to enter is October 9, 2017, Midnight PDT. Comments left after the deadline will not be considered.

By “best” – we’re looking for people who understand what NYIP is, what the course offers, and how it suits their needs. There’s no need to write essay length comments to win – but we’re looking to hear what you like about NYIP, the course and how it would help your development as a photographer.

This competition is open to everyone around the world no matter where you live, but there is only one entry per person, please. To enter – simply leave your comment below.

Don’t forget to share this post with your friends!

NYIP logo440x232black

Learn more about New York Institute of Photography here.

Disclaimer: NYIP is a paid partner of dPS.

The post Contest – Win One of 3 Online Photography Courses from New York Institute of Photography by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place

26 Sep

One of the common complaints I hear about photography is from people who struggle to find interesting things to take photos of. I understand the frustration. Some people are lucky enough to live in photogenic places that other people have to travel to see. But lots of people live in places where it’s genuinely hard to find interesting subjects for photography.

So, what do you do when this happens to you? Here are some ideas to help you find interesting subjects and inspiration.

pink flower - How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place

Food photography

Okay, I admit that people taking photos of their brunch with smartphones and uploading them to Instagram is getting old. But don’t let this put you off taking food photos at home. The nice thing about food photography is that it combines two hobbies – cooking (or baking) and photography. If you’re a good cook, it could be the perfect subject you.

There are two sides to food photography. One is the ability to prepare food so that it’s photogenic enough for a photo. The other is to provide the right environment to show the food off at its best.

If you don’t have what you need already that does involve a small investment. Think chopping boards, wooden tables, hand-made plates, and so on.

For lighting, nothing more sophisticated than window light is required. But you can also use it as an opportunity to practice your flash skills. I made this photo below using natural light.

Interesting subject - How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place

Flower photography

It’s quite possible that you don’t need to look any further than your backyard for an interesting subject. Most people have flowers in the garden. If you don’t, perhaps you know somebody who does. There may also be a park or botanical garden nearby that provides an interesting selection of flowers to photograph.

To be successful you’ll need to get close to the flowers using extension tubes, close-up lenses or a macro lens. It’s a good way to practice your macro and close-up techniques.

I made this photo in a local park.

flowers - How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place

Build a studio

The advantage of photographing food or flowers is that you can set up your photos indoors. There’s no need to worry about the weather or light, as window light is beautiful enough for both types of photography.

But why not take it further and set up an indoor studio? It’s possible to create a studio in the smallest of spaces. If you have any doubts about this then check out Nick Fancher’s book Studio Anywhere. It’s full of ingenious tips and tricks for setting up a studio in the tightest of spaces.

Note you can read more from Nick in these dPS articles:

  • How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
  • Making the Most out of the Photography Stuff You Have Already
  • How to Create Dark Moody Low-Key Portraits with Minimal Gear

Get a model

Once set up, you need a subject. We’ve already looked at food and flowers, but you can take it a step further by finding local people to model for you. Whether you’re looking for models or characters, friends and family are a good way to start. Once you’ve got a few shoots under your belt – and the start of a portfolio – you can approach other people to see if they’d be interested in taking part.

I made this portrait using a single Canon Speedlite flash in a 90cm Lastolite softbox.

portrait - How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place

Start projects

Feeling inspired yet? My next tip holds the true key to finding interesting subjects in boring places. There’s no better way to become a better photographer than to start a project. They are so good for improving your photography skills that even pros regularly set themselves personal projects.

Projects can be simple, or they can be complex, expensive and time-consuming. But don’t feel intimidated by grand projects – you can get started with a modestly ambitious project.

For example, over the last few years I’ve spent time photographing dancers, craftspeople, artists, musicians, parkour and circus performers. Here’s a photo I made recently of a dancer.

dancer - How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place

The reward of these projects has been twofold. On one hand, I’ve made some interesting photos and portraits for my portfolio. On the other, I’ve met lots of new and interesting people and made new friends. I’ve had experiences that I would never have had if I had not created these projects.

Reach out to new people

The great thing about projects is that they give you an excuse to contact people who may be interested in taking part. For example, let’s say you’d like to start a project photographing dancers. There may be local dance schools you can approach or Facebook groups for dancers. You can get in touch, explain your project idea, and ask if anybody is interested in taking part.

The hardest part is getting started. After your first photo shoot, you will have some photos to show other people. Also, the person you photographed might be able to introduce to other people who could be interested in taking part.

Projects are a fantastic way of finding interesting subjects to photograph. I’m sure that wherever you live, no matter how boring it may seem, there are people nearby doing interesting things that could make a great photo project.

I made this portrait of a local singer after getting in touch by email and asking if she’d like to take part in a shoot.

singer - How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place

Conclusion

Hopefully, these ideas give you a head start on defeating boredom and finding interesting things to photograph in your area, no matter how boring or uninteresting it may seem.

Do you have any suggestions for finding interesting things to photograph? Please let us know in the comments, I’d love to hear them.


If you enjoyed this article and would like to learn more about the creative side of photography then please check out my ebook Mastering Photography. It shows you how to take control of and be creative with your digital camera, no matter what your skill level!

The post How to Find Interesting Subjects for Photography in a Boring Place by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

25 Sep

Many people struggle with the different elements of learning photography. Mastering the technical aspects of your camera, on top of applying all of the creative and technical concepts, can make it a daunting pursuit for many. Now, with digital photography the norm for most photographers, there is also the added element of learning post-processing if you are really going to become successful as a photographic artist.

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

Learning Photography and Aging

As you scratch your head trying to put all the pieces together, you may not have realized that you are exercising many aspects of your brain. Studies have found that digital photography keeps your brain sharp and your mind in good shape.

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

I have watched one of my family members pursue digital photography well into his 90s. I always thought there was something about this activity and the creative process that was keeping him active and on track. But I never put much thought into it until I read this study from the University of Texas on digital photography and aging.

The study shows . . .

During the University of Texas study, six groups of individuals aged 60–90 were studied over a 10 week period. Each group was engrossed in a specific activity for 15 hours a week. The primary activities under observation included digital photography, digital quilting, and a variety of activities like playing cards and socializing. Only the groups doing quilting and photography improved their memory abilities when confronted with these continuous and prolonged mental challenges.

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

The results of the University of Texas study showed that digital photography is the best activity to participate in for aging baby boomers interested in maintaining their cognitive health and development.

Benefits of learning digital photography

What were the benefits? The most significant improvement was found in their use of words and phrases as well as their recognition of conceptual and visual imagery. The reason digital photography came up so high in this cognitive study is that it uses many parts of the brain to be successful.

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

It affects the creative and technical sides of your brain in both the shooting and post-processing. It also uses memory to make all of the functions work together. These benefits apply to someone who is shooting in full manual or partially automatic programs on their camera and are using advanced Photoshop or similar post-processing programs.

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

How it works

Here’s an example of some of the brain functions that are used when you create an image: When you are out on a photo shoot, and you want to create a compelling image, it takes some time to think about how to creatively compose the scene. Then, you need to choose the aperture and shutter speed settings based on the best creative application for the image, applying your memory of how the camera works.

Some of the high-end cameras these days will give you a decent point and shoot shot, but if you are intentionally going to create something of value, you need to put some technical thought into the image. At the same time, when you are setting up a shot, it helps to think through what you might do for post-processing the image once you get home.

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

Now that you have conquered the technical aspects of operating the camera, you need to bring the image into post-processing. Whether or not you are using Photoshop or Lightroom, you still need to have some technical ability on the computer and knowledge of how the program works. All of these activities together require memory, creativity, and cognitive abilities to perform these tasks correctly. This is all good exercise for your brain.

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

What does all of this mean for you?

The process of creating a digital image is fun, creative and clinically proven to be good for your mind. Just like we need to keep our heart healthy with diet and exercise, we also need to keep our brain active as we age. It’s not just the activity, but learning new and mentally challenging subjects that is the important part of this puzzle.

If you continue to pursue and learn digital photography well into your later years, it will serve as a good way to keep your brain and memory functions sharp.

Does that sound like a good plan for you to continue practicing the craft of digital photography as you age?

Learning Digital Photography May Have More Benefits Than You Think

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My Top Recommended Equipment for Night Photography

24 Sep

Being a Norwegian it’s hard not to be somewhat fascinated with night photography. Our winters are long and dark and when the skies are clear that means great opportunities for night photography. However, it wasn’t until I moved to Spain that I got even more obsessed with photographing the stars and I’ll admit that it’s slightly more comfortable doing so wearing shorts than three layers of clothes.

My Preferred Equipment for Night Photography - milky way shot

A lot can be said about the essential camera equipment for night photography, but in this article, I’d rather look at the equipment that I rely on in order to capture the images that I prefer. Photographers who execute more niche techniques such as star trails and deep space photography would probably add an item or two to this list.

That being said, I strongly recommend using the equipment mentioned in this article. I believe it will be hard for you to capture great images of the night sky without (most) of them.

The Camera…

The camera is your most important tool as a photographer – there’s no way around that. While upgrading your camera is expensive there are certain elements that you should consider if you desire to do better night photography.

Since you’re dealing with low-light at night you depend on using a high ISO in order to capture both the beautiful stars and the details in the landscape/scenery surrounding you. Unfortunately, entry-level cameras have a tendency to not rate well at higher ISO values. Already at a lower value such as ISO 800, they begin introducing a How to Avoid and Reduce Noise in Your Imagessignificant amount of noise. There are a few workarounds for this such as the median technique, but I won’t be getting into that in this article.

Wide Angle Lens

Besides the camera itself, you’ll also need a lens in order to capture an image. There are many different types of lenses available on the market but to get the best possible images during the night, make sure that you choose a lens with a large maximum aperture. This means that you can use an open aperture such as f/2.8 (which lets in more light).

My Preferred Equipment for Night Photography

A subtle display of Northern Lights in Lofoten.

While it might be a personal preference, I find that wide-angle lenses give the best results for night photography. Somewhere between 14-24mm is typically the best.

A Tripod

The last of the three most expensive tools is a tripod. Since you’ll be working with shutter speeds of 15-30 seconds, or even several minutes if you’re making a star trail, you depend on keeping your camera still for that long. This is hard to do without a tripod.

Unless you’re planning on photographing in harsher conditions, you don’t need to buy the most sturdy and solid tripod. However, I still recommend that you choose one that is somewhat solid and will last for a while. Low-end tripods have a tendency to break more easily and in the long run, it will cost you more than one of a higher quality.

Remote Shutter

If you plan to photograph star trails or do exposures longer than 30 seconds (i.e. use Bulb Mode), a remote shutter release is required. You don’t need to spend a lot of money on this and a simple one will do the job. However, I prefer to use one that has a small LCD screen that shows the time of your exposure and allows you to lock up the remote button.

When working with exposures shorter than 30 seconds a remote shutter release isn’t essential. In those cases, you can simply use a 2-second timer or delayed shutter release.

Natural Night Filter

The last of the tools I keep in my bag when doing night photography is a filter that I’ve grown to become a fan of during the last few months – especially when photographing in areas with light pollution.

The Natural Night Filter (I use NiSi’s but other brands such as LEE also have similar products) is made to reduce the amount of light pollution and give you a crisp image. Yes, this is relatively easy to fix in post-production but I find that the more light pollution there is the better the filter works.

Other non-camera related tools

Besides the tools mentioned above, there are a few more items I won’t leave home without when doing night photography. While all of them aren’t used in combination with a camera and don’t have a direct impact on the image itself, they are essential to get the shot:

  1. Extra layers of clothes (at least when photographing in the Arctic!).
  2. Powerful headlamp.
  3. Extra batteries for your camera (if it’s cold keep one on the inner pocket of your jacket).
  4. PhotoPills app – a great tool for planning your night sessions

My Preferred Equipment for Night Photography

What are your preferred tools for night photography? Let me know in a comment!

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How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

24 Sep

If you enjoy photographing your pets, and dogs, in particular, this article will help you take better action photos of dogs. Learn what camera equipment to use, the best settings, and general tips for success.

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

The Camera Body

If you want to take better action photos of dogs, I recommend a camera body with a fast burst rate. From my experience, five frames per second is the minimum. If your camera has a faster frame rate than that, you are going to increase your keeper rate as long as your approach and technique are on point, which we will get to shortly. I personally use Nikon’s D610 and D7000 and have great success with photographing dogs in action.

The Camera Lens

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

I recommend long and fast lenses. I’ve tried to photograph action shots with the 50mm f/1.8, and the Tokina 100mm f/2.8, with very little success. While both of these lenses are incredibly sharp, they are soft wide open and do not focus well on moving subjects.

Longer lenses with fixed apertures generally focus on moving subjects much faster than shorter lenses. They also keep you and your camera gear safer. Think about it. If you have a 45 point Border Collie running full speed right at you, you need to get the photograph and get out of the way quickly.

A longer lens will give you the time you need to move once the dog starts to fill the frame. I personally use the Nikon 300mm f/4 and sometimes I’ll even throw a teleconverter on it for extended reach and cleaner bokeh.

Camera Settings

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

Setting Your Autofocus

I recommend locking your autofocus directly in the center of the frame. When photographing action shots of animals you don’t have time to be moving the focus point around. I also suggest using AF-C (Continuous focus mode, called Servo on Canon), which may also be called autofocus continuous, AF-Continuous. This is the setting I always use when trying to get action shots of dogs.

Set your Camera to Burst Mode

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

Make sure you check your camera drive setting. I know it’s common sense, but make some kind of reminder, though, a checklist you look at before capturing action shots. I’ve been photographing animals for over a decade, and still screw this up sometimes. It wastes time if you don’t have your camera set to burst mode and also wastes the dog’s energy. Dogs can only run for so long and you need every opportunity you can get within that time frame.

Photographing Running Dogs

When I photograph dogs running, I aim to get them looking straight into my camera lens. I want the dog running directly toward me, and I focus on as much eye contact as possible. So to consistently get great photographs of dogs running in this manner, you’re going to need some help.

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

What I do to accomplish this is have the dog owner or an assistant stand fairly far away from me. I will then position myself on my belly, using my camera bag to stabilize the lens. I try and keep my back to the sun when outdoors. This will help me get the shutter speed that I want to photograph the dog running. I shoot for 1/1250th of a second to 1/2000th.

I’ll first take a test shot to make sure my exposure is right. Then I have the assistant throw a tennis ball right at me. I usually tell them to try and hit me with the tennis ball. This sends the dog running full speed, right at me. I will also instruct the assistant to quickly move to the left or right as soon as the ball is thrown. This saves me tons of time later in post-processing by not having to remove them from the background with Photoshop.

Photographing Dogs Catching Frisbees

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

This is a little trickier and complicated to pull off compared to photographing running dogs. The goal is to get the dog in mid-air right before he is about to bite down on the Frisbee. I use pretty much the exact same camera settings and approach that I do for photographing dogs running.

I do change one thing, though, and that’s the camera shooting angle. I like to shoot from the hip. Meaning the camera is around my hip level. I’m not actually shooting from the hip, but kneeling down on one knee. Following the dog chasing the Frisbee, I bump the focus until the dog is close to the target. Then holding down the shutter button, I burst out some shots until the buffer gets filled.

Photographing Dogs Jumping

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

This is simpler than capturing the two types of dog action shots mentioned previously. It definitely requires an assistant to pull off consistently, though. You also don’t need a lens as fast or long to photograph docs jumping compared to the other types of action shots. Although, I prefer using long lens simply because it makes a smoother, more out of focus background.

Here’s how to do it. Position yourself so the dog is in only one-third of the camera frame or less. Check your exposure. Have an assistant hold up a toy, a tree branch, or whatever the dog is interested in enough to jump up and grab. Have the assistant hold it up high, with their arm extended as long as they can. This is incredibly helpful when it comes to post-processing.

Look out for the Safety of the Dog

How to Take Better Action Photos of Dogs

You can photograph a dog all day just lying around and looking cute. When dogs are running and chasing Frisbees, they get tired. If you are doing a pet photography session and want action shots, this is going to happen incredibly fast.

The dog owners don’t always prepare for it, but I’ve done this many times, and I always prepare. I keep several bottles of water on me, along with a collapsible drinking bowl. If the dog is panting heavily, give them a rest. If they drink a 16-ounce bottle of water in less than a minute, you may want to wait a while before attempting more action shots.

Some factors that you need to consider when shooting action shots are how hot it is, the dog’s age, and the breed. Certain dog breeds handle heat better than others. This is also true for exercise needs. If you are a professional pet photographer, you should be well aware of what the dog’s exercise needs are as well as how well they handle the heat.

Conclusion

So I hope that you find these tips helpful for taking better action photos of your dogs, or those of your clients. Any action photography takes some practice so keep at it and you’ll start to have more keepers over time. Please share your dog action photos in the comments below, we’d love to see them.

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How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

24 Sep

Almost every camera can do a panoramic shot. A lot of apps and software can create a “little planet” image. So how can you capture that beautiful view and still stay creative? Try going vintage! In this article, I’ll show you how to do a patchwork-style collage (called a Joiner Collage) so you can do any panorama in an original way and end up with a one-of-a-kind image.

What is a Joiner Collage?

Back in the 80s, an artist called David Hockney was studying how human vision works and experimenting with an idea he created called Joiners. Using Polaroids at the beginning and commercial 35mm film later, he shot one subject from many different angles and then put them together into one image creating sort of a patchwork pattern.

Following on this idea, I’m going show you how to do some digital panoramas. By following these steps, you can capture any subject from every point of view that you want. Here is a panoramic I made of Milan that I’ll use to show you all the steps.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

How to make a Joiner

To start this project you already have to be thinking about it from the moment you make the photos. Three things you have to consider:

  1. You will want to shoot all the photos that you are going to need so that you don’t find yourself in front of the computer with a piece of your scene missing.
  2. If you decide to go with a regular shape like a square or a rectangle then try to visualize how many pieces you need per side and divide your scene like a grid (e.g. Five photos for the horizontal side and three for the vertical side).
  3. You need to set the resolution to a lower setting than you might be used to, because all the files will be combined into one (I’ll explain how further along). If you shoot each one at 25 MB for example, or the highest your camera can shoot, it will probably be too big for your computer to handle.

Once you have all the images, organize just the ones are you going to use, all into one folder.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Merging the images

Now open the folder in Bridge and select all images. You can easily do this by holding the Shift key while clicking the first and then the last file; it will select all the images in between as well (or Cmd/Ctrl+A for select all).

With all the photos selected you can now go to the menu Tools > Photoshop > Load Files into Photoshop Layers.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

The result of this command is exactly what its name suggests. It will open one image composed of all the selected images as layers. However, the file will be the size as an individual image, so you need to make room to fit all of them.

Go to menu Image > Canvas Size and a window will pop up with the current measurements. In the drop-down menu choose Percentage and multiply it by as many photos you will line up in your panorama, plus one. So if you are doing a panorama of 5×3 you need to put a percentage of 600 x 400, that way you will have also some blank space to play with.

I like to leave the point in the center so that space will be created evenly on the sides. But you can move that around depending on how you feel it’s easiest for you to spread your images out on the canvas.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Arrange the Joiner collage

Now all you have to do is use your creativity and arrange the photos to create your Joiner collage.

To make this task easy, use the Move tool from the tools panel. Tick the Auto-Select choice and choose Layer from the drop-down menu from the settings of the tool. This will allow you to just click on each image and move it without having to go back and forth to the layers panel. The tool will select it automatically.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Tweak your final image

That’s it! Once you have the final layout you can add some adjustment layers if you want to fine-tune the levels, contrast, saturation or anything else on your panorama. Add a background color if you decide to incorporate some negative space around your Joiner, and flatten the image.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

You can also add some effects if you want to create different versions of the image. For example, you can turn it into negative.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

You can also do an abstract or surreal panorama by duplicating layers, forcing perspective, and anything you can imagine.

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Keep in mind that David Hockney, the creator of the Joiner worked mainly with portraits, so you don’t have to limit yourself to panoramas. Try all sorts of subjects, the sky is the limit!

How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image

Conclusion

I hope you give this fun and easy technique a try. Please share your Joiner collage images in the comments below. We’d love to see what you create.

The post How to Make a Joiner Collage for a Retro-Style Panorama Image by Ana Mireles appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Video Tutorial – How to Work a Scene to Find the best Light and Composition

23 Sep

In this short video tutorial, photographer Mike Brown takes you on a photo walk looking for images. Watch as he scans the scene and finds the best camera angle, waits for the right light, and frames the shot for the best composition.

Go on a photo walk and see how Mike goes about working a scene, before quickly snapping a photo and moving on. Take your time, look around. If you see something interesting explore the scene a little. Have patience as well.

Some key points you can learn from this tutorial include:

  • Sometimes you need to wait for the light to change.
  • Simplification is often a good thing.
  • Move around the scene, and put things in the foreground as well.
  • Use shadows for more creating more dramatic images.

The post Video Tutorial – How to Work a Scene to Find the best Light and Composition by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Square

23 Sep

This week for the photography challenge let’s keep it simple and look for shapes. One in particular – the square.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Square

Look for square subjects. You can even crop your image into a square and make a composition that is suitable for that format. Shooting for a square is a bit different than using the regular camera format – try it and see how you do.

Share your images below:

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

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My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

22 Sep

Lightroom is a mature, fully featured photo-processing app. It has tools bursting out at the seams, from lens corrections to color corrections and even camera styles and mode emulations. That doesn’t stop you from having some favorites though. These are the ones that I seem to use on every photo that I choose to edit.

My five favorite Lightroom sliders

So, here are my five favorite Lightroom sliders in no particular order. I’ll use two different photos to walk through but will give other examples as well. Here’s our two starting photos, both raw files that have been exported as JPEG with no settings applied.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

#1/2 – Shadows/Highlights

My first two favorite sliders are used as a pair. The Shadows slider changes luminosity of the darker areas in the photo. The sliders in the Basic panel are all interactive and affect each other, so pushing the Shadows sliders to the right will also affect the darkest part of the photo typically controlled by the Blacks. Because of this, you’ll often need to bring the Blacks slider down a bit to compensate.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

The first photo with Highlights at -100 and Shadows at +100. Notice how it resembles HDR tone mapping.

The Highlights slider affects the brighter parts of the image. I use this most often to bring back detail in these areas. A great trick for underexposed photos is to increase Exposure to brighten the photo, then bring down the Highlights slider to rescue lost highlight detail.

Together the Shadow/Highlights pair act as tone mapping controls in Lightroom. By bringing Shadows to +100 and Highlights to -100, you can get a natural look faux HDR photo from a single photo. In fact, the Auto control in Lightroom’s HDR tool sets Shadows to +70 and Highlights to -100 most of the time, which isn’t too far off this cool look.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

The second photo with our faux HDR settings applied.

I’ll generally apply this to any landscape or cityscape as a Lightroom Preset, and then refine it as needed.

#3 – Clarity

During the development of Lightroom, the Clarity slider was called Punch, which is a great way of describing what it does. Contrast work across the whole image. Clarity, on the other hand, tends to increase or decrease edge contrast on the tones that are neither the darkest nor lightest tones in the photo. 

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Clarity slider set +43.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Basic panel settings so far for photo number one.

Pushing it to the right intelligently creates more punch in the image, without increasing contrast in the blacks and whites.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Clarity +25

On portraits, Clarity is like a grit slider, bringing character to male portraits.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Before and after Clarity +52 has been added to this male portrait (right).

Moving Clarity to the left softens out those mid-tones. While I’ve seen other mention that it doesn’t affect the colors, I feel that it does add a small amount of saturation. This soft look is great for skin, especially female portraits. I don’t use it globally in those case though, I use it as a local adjustment with the Adjustment Brush tool, allowing me to apply it only to specific areas.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Here’s what negative Clarity looks like. While it’s softened the skin, it’s also softened all the mid-tones in the photo.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Here’s the same setting, but only applied to the skin. It makes a huge difference and provides an effective way to retouch skin in Lightroom.

#4 – Vibrance

Sticking to the Basic panel, Vibrance is located in the Presence section right below Clarity. Vibrance is a special form of Saturation. Saturation works by increasing the intensity of each color until they’re a pure tone. Too much can be garish, and this is where Vibrance steps in.

Vibrance works on a more relative scale. It affects colors that are already saturated less than muted ones. This means it takes a lot longer to look garish and balances out the saturation of all colors in the photo.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Our first photo with +31 Vibrance added to the previous settings.

Our second photo with Vibrance +23.

The Vibrance slider in Lightroom has one other trick up its sleeve though. It prevents skin tones from becoming saturated. This means you get to increase the saturation of your portrait location, without giving an Oompah Loompah tone to your subject. That’s a big win in my opinion.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Even with Vibrance of +50, the skin tone still looks reasonably natural, avoiding the orange look that Saturation would have at a similar setting.

For landscape photos this does mean Vibrance pushes greens and blues more than reds and oranges, so for sunsets and sunrises, I usually mix Vibrance and Saturation evenly.

#5 – Dehaze

Dehaze is a Lightroom CC only feature. You can use it in Lightroom 6 with presets though. It’s not as convenient, but access to the feature via presets is still useful even if you don’t have the Dehaze slider. 

The Dehaze slider is located in the Effects panel.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Dehaze of +60 on a foggy shot from Venice.

Dehaze is aptly named as it removes haze from an image. That sounds simple, but it’s really doing a lot of work to figure out what’s happening in the photo, so it knows which areas are affected by haze, and applying the correction based on the haze at that point in the photo.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Photo one with Dehaze +30

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Photo two with Dehaze applied.

It works as an effect on images without haze as well, where it increases contrast and saturation. It does tend to darken the photo, so you generally need to boost exposure as well when you’ve used it. Dehaze can also be used in reverse, to increase the haze in a photo, giving it more atmosphere.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Negative Dehaze can make a photo look foggy.

Haze in and of itself isn’t a bad thing and does add mood to a photo. It’s when areas of the photo are more substantially affected than others that it comes into its own. For these times, Dehaze is available as a local correction via the Adjustment Brush, Graduated Filter, and Radial Filter.

My 5 Favorite Lightroom Sliders

Develop settings for our second photo.

And you?

So those are my five favorite Lightroom sliders. Do you have any favorites that you use all the time? Please add a comment below and let us know.

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