Category: Photography

  • How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    Several years ago as I was just getting serious about photography, my only pieces of gear were a Nikon D200 and a 50mm lens. I was instantly enamored with the lens and almost overnight I stopped taking photos of my family and friends with a pocket camera. Instead, I preferred to bring my large DSLR setup with me everywhere because the resulting images were so good.

    However, the more I used it the more I became aware of its limitations and I once told my friend Ryan, one of two people who were instrumental in getting me started on my path as a photographer, that I liked the lens but it wasn’t very well suited to wildlife photography.

    He took umbrage with that assessment, and quite rightly so because that lens can be ideal for wildlife photography!

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    As I slowly reversed my position over the years I started to realize that the same principle holds true for all sorts of photography types. The camera gear you have, combined with the skills you possess, can work just fine if you simply adjust your perspective a bit.

    Whether you like to shoot portraits, sports, wildlife, astrophotography, nature, still life, or any other kind of images you can probably find a way to make it happen with the gear already on your shelf. The first steps involve some mental adjustments that can be somewhat difficult to wrap your head around but make all the difference in the end.

    Here are some tips to help you.

    Define your terms

    When I made that regretful statement about a 50mm lens not being suited for wildlife photography it was partly out of ignorance because I was a new photographer. But mostly it was because I didn’t understand what was meant by the term wildlife photography.

    What I had in mind were images of lions, tigers, and bears set against sweeping African vistas. There was simply no way I could get shots like that with a 50mm lens while living in a small town in the middle of Oklahoma. What I realized over the years was that wildlife photography can mean many things, and I didn’t need to put that term in such a small, limiting box.

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    Would you consider a turtle sitting on a rock at the edge of a college campus pond to be wildlife? At first, I did not, but now I most certainly do.

    Instead, I decided to expand it to include animals I would encounter in my normal everyday routine and even bugs and insects that were literally in my very own backyard. The simple act of re-defining what I considered to be wildlife photography made all the difference in the world to me and has helped me get shots of which I am quite proud and now find great joy in pursuing.

    What does it mean to you?

    The question for other photographers in a similar situation then becomes: what does [insert type of photography] mean to you? If you want to start photographing people do you mean close-up headshots? Full-body pictures? Street photography? Parties and weddings?

    You can even break this down further by looking at sub-genres and defining those terms to be what you want. When you think of a headshot your first mental image might be that of a magazine cover. But headshots can be any number of things and people can be photographed in infinite ways.

    The same thing goes for other types of photography as well. You might think sports photography means prize-winning shots of soccer players scoring a goal. But it might also mean shooting an archery competition or even a chess match. And those require very different skills and equipment compared to a football match.

    In short, don’t let your pursuit of a specific type of photography be defined by what you think it should mean or, even worse, what other people say. Let it be what you want it to be, then go out and pursue it.

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    Can wildlife photography mean shooting a spider on the side of your house? Of course! There’s no rule that says it can’t.

    Know what you’re working with

    Along with knowledge of your own perceptions of a certain type of photography, it helps to have a solid understanding of the gear you own and the skills you possess. That way you can play to the strengths of what is available to you while also understanding areas in which you could improve.

    As I started using my 50mm lens for more wildlife photography I developed a much clearer idea of what the lens could do and its limitations. That helped me understand the types of animal images I could get with it.

    For example, instead of zooming in on animals that were far away I learned to be patient and find ways of physically getting closer to animals. That wasn’t always an easy task, but it taught me a lot about myself and my willingness to get the shot I wanted. It also helped me understand that my humble little 50mm lens was capable of a lot more than I initially gave it credit for.

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    The best camera is the one you have with you

    Every now and then I would get lucky and have an animal cross my path. Then almost as if it were aware of what I was doing, it would pause and wait for a picture. Of course, this type of scenario is only possible if you have your camera with you instead of sitting on a shelf at home.

    No matter what type of pictures you are pursuing, by not practicing and not having your camera with you it will not help you advance. I also learned to conquer some of my fears and do what it takes to get the shot even if it makes me uncomfortable.

    I made this image of a snake after seeing it crawl across the street and into my front yard. Not knowing whether the snake was venomous or not (turns out it wasn’t) I made sure to keep my distance and have an escape plan ready. But I wasn’t about to let an interesting photo opportunity pass me by.

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    You’ll learn what gear you need

    Several years ago I took the following picture of a spider outside my house and thought it was decent. But it was not nearly as good as it could have been because my lens would not focus any closer. (Are you seeing a theme here? You don’t need to go far to take wildlife photos!)

    There were also problems with the picture from a compositional standpoint: the light is too harsh, the subject is somewhat unclear, and it’s not all that obvious exactly what is happening.

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    One of my earlier photos of a spider eating on an evening snack. Much like the grasshopper, this picture clearly has some problems.

    As I learned more about my gear while refining my skills I realized that I simply didn’t have what I needed to take close-up shots of bugs and insects. So I bought a set of close-up filters for about $ 35 that allowed me and 50mm lens to get much closer to subjects than before.

    I also spent time studying light, composition, mood, emotion, and other principles of photography because I knew I had a lot to learn in those areas. The result is a similar image that I took recently which, in my opinion, is far superior to its earlier counterpart.

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    It took several years and hundreds of shots before I was able to get a photo I was happy with.

    Use what you have to its potential

    The lesson here is that you don’t necessarily need to buy new equipment to get the kinds of shots you want. But you do need to know how to use what you’ve got and what you know.

    Are you shooting with the kit lens that came with your camera? That’s fine! Those lenses are great for wide-angle shots and short telephoto images, and you can get fantastic shots especially if you have plenty of light.

    Your camera might even have features you don’t know about, like fast autofocus or good high ISO capabilities that would make it well suited for sports or nighttime photography. The more you learn about what you have, the more photographic possibilities you will see open up right in front of your eyes.

    Manage your expectations

    No matter what type of photography you want to pursue it is essential that you have your expectations in line with the reality of what you are attempting to do.

    If you want to take amazing poster-worthy images of basketball players going for a slam dunk, by all means, go for it! Are you looking to capture some brilliant wedding photos and fun memories from the reception afterward? Or maybe you want to do like I did and get into photographing animals and wildlife.

    Have patience

    Whatever type of photography you want to pursue, know that you won’t get from here to there overnight. Getting the pictures you want takes years of practice, education, and an intimate knowledge of what your photography gear can and can’t do.

    Pursuing those photos is certainly a lofty and admirable goal and one that is obtainable given enough time and effort. But when you start out your photos will almost certainly not look like what you might be picturing in your mind.

    How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills

    Be like this cottonwood borer beetle and reach for the stars! Just know that it might take a little while to get there.

    Even if you can clearly define what you mean by portrait, sports, wedding, wildlife, landscape, real estate, or family photography and you have a solid understanding of your camera gear and your own abilities, your initial pictures will probably fall short of your expectations.

    That’s perfectly fine, and it’s all part of the process of growing as a photographer. As long as you don’t let your initial shots get you down. Go into it with an understanding that you have time and room to grow. In the meantime, don’t let anyone tell you your pictures aren’t good enough, you don’t have the right gear, or you aren’t as skilled as you need to be.

    This photo represents my White Whale: a goal I have been pursuing but always seems out of reach. I always seem to end up with images like this which are almost there…but not quite. Someday I would really like to get a shot of a bee drinking nectar from a flower, and I will keep at it until I finally get it.

    Conclusion

    What are some of your photography goals, and what are you doing to make those goals happen? Is there a type or style of photography you have always wanted to try but never thought you could do? Leave your thoughts in the comments below–I’d love to hear from the DPS community on this and hopefully help others find some encouragement and inspiration on their photographic journey.

    The post How to Make the Most of Your Camera Gear and Skills by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to use Macphun’s Luminar for Beginners

    If you haven’t used it before, your first question might be what exactly is Luminar? Simply put, it’s photo editing software designed by Macphun (available soon for Windows – download the beta version to try it here).

    It might differ a little bit from other photo editing software that you’ve used because it is a photo editor only – it does not include an image cataloging component. It is also a one-time purchase rather than a subscription-based product. Luminar’s workflow focuses on very easy-to-use presets that literally enable you to press one button and completely process your image, ideal for beginners.

    Luminar for beginners - white hibiscus

    Cropped and edited in Luminar using Mild Image Enhancer Preset at 85 opacity, plus a white balance adjustment.

    In this article, I’ll upload some images and take a whirl around the user interface so that you can understand where all the tools are, and what they do. After that, we’ll dive in with some basic editing techniques. In just a few paragraphs, you’ll have some great ideas on how to use Luminar to edit your own photos.

    Starting in Luminar Stand-Alone

    To start, click on the Luminar icon. The initial screen asks you to Open Image. Click the blue button to open a Finder  (or Explorer) window, navigate to your chosen image, select it, and click open. Your image opens in Luminar.

    Luminar for Beginners - Start

    Opening in Luminar from Lightroom

    If you prefer to start in Lightroom, right-click on your image, select Export > Luminar > Open Original Image. Your image opens in Luminar. Note: you can also select Edit in > Luminar.

    Luminar for Beginners - Lightroom

    If you made adjustments to your image in Lightroom such as lens corrections, cropping, straightening, spot removal or noise reduction – instead of choosing Open Original Image, choose “Use .TIFF with Lightroom Adjusters”. Or select Edit in > Luminar and choose “Edit a copy with Lightroom adjustments” from the options.

    The Top Toolbar

    Let’s take a quick look at the top toolbar inside Luminar. We’ll discuss where everything is and what they do but, just in case something doesn’t make sense, and you’re not sure what each icon does, hover your cursor over it. A tiny pop-up will appear and you can confirm that you’re looking at the right tool.

    Luminar for Beginners - top toolbar

    Luminar’s top toolbar.

    Side Panel

    Starting in the far right corner of the Top Toolbar is an icon that allows you to open and close the Side Panel, which is where you add Layers and Filters to make adjustments to your image. I prefer to work with the Side Panel open but if you need to see a larger version of your image, click this icon to toggle it off and give yourself a larger workspace. Click it again to toggle it on.

    Luminar for Beginners - Side panel open

    Here the Luminar workspace has the Side Panel toggled on. Note that if the icon is white, it is toggled off; if an icon is orange, it is toggled on.

    Preset Panel

    The icon for the Preset Panel is one to the left of the Side Panel one. Again, click the icon to toggle this panel on and off.

    Luminar for Beginners - Preset Panel

    When activated, the Preset Panel runs along the bottom of the Luminar workspace, giving you a preview of what each will when applied to your image.

    Layers and Histogram

    The next icon is the Layers panel. It looks like two sheets of paper in a stack. Because the focus of this article is on beginning techniques, we’re not going to talk about layers here. Just make a quick note of where this icon is so that when you’re ready to give it a go, you know how to find it.

    To the left of the Layers icon is the Histogram icon.

    Luminar for Beginners - histogram icon

    The Histogram icon is highlighted here in red, the Layers one is just to the right of it. Currently, Layers are turned off so it is gray.

    The Histogram itself has two triangles that can be clicked on and off as well. Solid orange triangles indicate this feature is on. When these alerts are on the triangles indicate if your image has any blown highlights/whites or blocked up shadows/blacks. If it does, they’ll be called out in red or blue respectively on the image.

    Luminar for Beginners - highlight alert

    The bit of red “paint” on the petal all the way to the left indicates blown-out whites.

    History

    Click the little clock icon to pull up the history of all the changes you’ve made to your image. If you’re not sure you like what you’ve done, click on any of the previous steps to get back to a point that you do like.

    Luminar for Beginners - History Icon

    Undo

    The curved arrow to the left of the History icon will undo the last step that you’ve made.

    Compare

    Possibly one of my favorite Luminar features, Compare is the little icon just to the right of the eyeball. Once you activate the comparison frame, you can slide the before/after line back and forth over the image to see how your adjustments are affecting it.

    Luminar for beginners - compare icon

    Preview

    The eyeball icon can be toggled on and off to quickly show you your original versus your edited image.

    Luminar for beginners - preview icon

    Zooming Icons

    There are four zooming icons. You can toggle between 100% and Fit to Screen or make incremental size changes by using the + (plus) and – (minus) icons.

    Luminar for beginners - zoom icons

    Side Toolbar

    Running down the right-hand side is a list of tools that are mostly more advanced so we won’t be addressing them gere. However, the Crop Tool, a scissors icon, is part of almost every workflow.

    Luminar for beginners - crop tool

    Luminar for beginners - pink hibiscusCropped to a square and processed using Quick and Awesome Workspace in Luminar.

    Filters

    Now that you know where all the tools are, let’s talk about how to use them to make adjustments to your image.

    Luminar calls each set of adjustments a Filter.  For example, the Tone Filter contains sliders that adjust Exposure, Contrast, Whites, Blacks, etc. Some filters, like the Polarizing filter, contain only one adjustment.

    Luminar for beginners - filter panel

    To add additional Filters to your image, click the + (plus) sign to open the flyout menu, scroll through it, select the filter you need and then adjust the slider.

    Luminar for beginners - Filter flyout menu

    Note: if you click the name of the filter it will be added and the flyout menu will close. But if you want to add more than one filter just click the little + at the end of the filter name and it will add that filter and keep the menu open so you can add more.

    Workspaces

    Luminar offers quite a few different Filters and as you are learning the program you may not know which is the best set of Filters to add to your image. One of the ways that Luminar helps you narrow things down is by giving you Workspace options. For example, let’s say your image is monochrome (or you want it to be). You can choose the B&W Workspace as a starting point. If it’s a landscape, choose the Landscape Workspace.

    Luminar for Beginners - Landscape workspace

    Luminar’s workspaces make it simple to use.

    The Filters included in each Workspace have been selected to enhance just the type of image you’re working on. The adjustment of each slider is left to your discretion.

    Luminar for beginners - wild horses

    Cropped and edited in Luminar using the Landscape Workspace.

    If you haven’t used Luminar before (or have, but not successfully), start with the Quick and Awesome Workspace. With some images, applying the Accent-AI Filter is all you may need to do. Activate the Compare feature so that as you adjust this Filter, you can see what it is doing. Add Saturation, Clarity, and Vibrance as needed. How do things look? Do you still need additional adjustments but are not sure which ones to apply? Now is the time to try Presets.

    Presets

    Presets are similar to Workspaces because in each Preset includes a select group of Filters. However, in Presets Luminar adjusts the sliders (or pre-sets them, get it?) to create a unique look. Usually the name of the Preset will give you a good idea of the look that Preset will create.

    Luminar for beginners - preset applied

    One of my favorite parts about Luminar Presets is that I can adjust the Opacity of them. In the photo below, the Image Enhancer Preset looks just a tad too strong. Dragging the Opacity Slider to reduce it to 65 was a perfect – and easy – solution.

    Luminar for beginners - wild horses

    Cropped and edited in Luminar using the Image Enhancer preset at 65 opacity, with no other changes.

    Four favorite Presets

    If you’re not sure where to start, or which Preset to choose, here are four of my favorites:

    • Happy Memories in the Travel set.
    • Warm Sunset in the Travel set.
    • Bright Day in the Outdoor set.
    • Mild Image Enhancer in the Basic set.

    To locate the Presets, click the Preset Menu icon in the lower right corner of the interface then click through the choices in each category. Once you find yourself using the same Presets over and over, add it to Favorites so that you can locate it faster. Just click the star on the preset to add it to your Favorites list.

    Luminar for Beginners - preset menu

    Applying Presets using Compare

    To choose the right Preset for your image, scroll through them with the Compare preview panel turned on. As you click on each one, you’ll see both your original image and how it will look after applying the Preset at 100%. That will help you learn how each Preset affects your image and eventually, you’ll find your own favorites.

    Luminar for beginners - bright day preset

    Fine-tuning Presets

    If the Preset you chose for your image looks good but not perfect, remember they can be used as just a starting point. Once you apply them you can decrease the opacity. You can also adjust individual sliders or add and delete Filters in the Side Panel.

    Luminar for Beginners - St Johns NL

    Cropped and edited in Luminar using the Bright Day Preset at Opacity 80, Vignette adjusted to -25, Blacks adjusted to +10.

    Saving your image

    If you started in Luminar, have completed work on your image, and want to create a JPG, Select File > Export to image then select the correct folder and rename the file as appropriate.

    If you plan to continue to work on the image, or might want to make changes in the future, select File > Save As to create a native Luminar file, then select the correct folder and rename the file as appropriate. That will retain any Layers if you used that feature as well as the History.

    Saving your image to your Lightroom Catalog

    If you started in Lightroom, it’s a snap to save your image. After you finish processing your image in Luminar, click the Apply button in the upper left corner of the interface. This saves your image and also catalogs it in Lightroom in the same folder as your original image.

    Your Turn

    Hopefully, you’ve been following along and processing a few images in Luminar as you were reading. Now take a minute to upload your best image for the dPS community and tell us about how you created it in Luminar. Which are your favorite Luminar presets?

    Disclaimer: Macphun is a dPS advertising partner.

    The post How to use Macphun’s Luminar for Beginners by Lara Joy Brynildssen appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • First Look: Phottix Juno

    A value-priced, all-manual flash with a built-in radio and a real warranty? Yeah, I'm interested.

    Today, a first look at the new Phottix Juno. Read more »
    Strobist

  • 6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod

    Most photographers will tell you that a tripod is invaluable and is usually the favorite accessory that they carry with them. While a tripod remains an essential piece of equipment, especially for low light photography, it is also usually the one piece of camera equipment that draws the most amount of attention.

    In some scenarios and places, you won’t be allowed to use a tripod so you have to find other ways of utilizing your camera to take the photo you want. Here are six tips to help you capture photos in low light without a tripod.

    6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod

    #1 – Raise the ISO

    The first option that most people will turn to is to raise the ISO setting in the camera. Principally, the ISO is the sensitivity of the camera’s sensor to light. The higher the ISO the more “sensitive” the sensor becomes to light which in turn means you can capture more detail in low light conditions. In simple terms, the darker your scene is, the higher you need your ISO. But before you start whacking your ISO up to 25,600, beware that raising the ISO also has a detrimental effect on the image.

    The higher your ISO setting, the more noise you’ll see in your photo. Too much noise and your photo will begin to start looking soft. The key to being able to use ISO effectively is to balance it with other elements such as shutter speed and depth of field to be able to capture the shot you want.

    Always aim to have your ISO as low as possible. Also, make sure you test your camera at different ISO settings before you use it for an actual photograph you intend to take.

    Taken at ISO 4000. It was the only way that I was able to capture a photo in this dark tunnel.

    #2 – Use Mirror Lock-Up and Live View Mode

    Have you ever taken a photo with a tripod, with good depth of field, at a slow shutter speed only to see the final photo on your computer is slightly blurred? This is one question that has often baffled novice photographers but there is a simple solution.

    When you press the button to take a photo, the mirror inside the camera flips up out of the way. This mechanical process can mean that there is a slight movement in the camera, which in turn causes a small shake, hence the blurred photo. To get around this problem, you can set your camera to Live View mode (when you get a live picture on the display of your camera) which essentially flips the mirror up permanently (until you switch off Live View mode) and means that when you take the photo you don’t get the movement the camera. Some cameras also allow you to “lock the mirror” without using the live view mode (so using your viewfinder).

    This issue would be the same when photographing without a tripod in low light conditions. So in this scenario, set your camera to Live View mode/mirror lock-up to avoid that small, unwanted camera shake.

    6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod

    #3 – Use High-Speed Burst Mode

    One of the great innovations of modern DSLR cameras is how much faster you can now take photos in burst mode. Using a high-speed burst mode is a really good trick to capturing decent photos in low light. But this only works when your shutter speed is just below the threshold of you shooting handheld.

    For example, if you can hold your camera steady enough to take a sharp photo at 1/60th, you may be able to get away with using high-speed burst mode and using 1/45th or even 1/30th of a second. This is because with high-speed burst mode you have less time in between photos for the camera to move and often you’ll find one or two photos sharp enough for use in the middle of the burst.

    Just remember to use high-speed burst as some cameras also offer low-speed burst option and aim for a good number of photos. You’ll also be well advised to try out this trick a few times to find out what your threshold is before you use it in a real-life situation.

    6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod

    #4 – Find a Ledge or Wall

    Often your best bet for capturing photos in low light is to find a ledge or wall that you can rest your camera on. Not only does this mean you can have your settings at pretty much exactly what you would with a tripod, but you can also often find interesting camera angles which are different to traditional photos you’d see taken with a tripod.

    One thing to be aware of is that you may need to raise your lens up slightly. Otherwise, you may see the ledge/wall in the foreground of your photo. You can use anything you can find or have with you to slightly tilt the lens upward.

    6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod

    I found a small ledge in this old church that I was able to rest the camera on to take this photo.

    #5 – Use Your Bag

    Over time you’ll begin to pick up tricks and techniques that you will use in your photography. One of the most useful that I have found has been to simply use my backpack. Put it on the floor and put your camera on top and you have a quick tripod without all the attention that a tripod brings.

    This trick has been really useful in buildings and places where tripods are not allowed like museums or galleries. You can put your bag on benches and even rest it on a branch of a tree (as I did once).

    6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod

    #6 – Train Yourself

    Like anything else photography is something that you can improve your skills. This is also true of actually being able to hold the camera steady. So start by practicing your stance and make sure that you are holding the camera as securely and comfortably as you can.

    Work on your composure and try to teach yourself to relax when you are going to take the photo. By practicing over and over again you may find that you actually can hold the camera at slightly slower speeds than you were able to before.

    6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod

    Conclusion

    There’s no question that if you want to capture the best possible photos at the best quality in low light conditions, then a tripod will give you the best results. But in situations when that might not be possible, using the tips and tricks above might help you capture the shots you need.

    Anything else? What tricks do you use to capture photos in low light conditions without a tripod?

    The post 6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod by Kav Dadfar appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation

    Who doesn’t love a good sunset photo? There’s something about that colorful, ethereal time of day that strikes a cord with just about every person. But as appealing and ordinary as sunsets are, the ability to capture that magical time of day as a photo can be surprisingly difficult.

    Sunset Photos

    Photo by Martin Genev

    Yes, gear and camera settings are important. However, the ability to be in the right place at the right time of day is arguably the most important factor to photographing a sunset. Below, I’ll highlight several tips for planning

    Yes, gear and camera settings are important. However, the ability to be in the right place at the right time of day is arguably the most important factor to photographing a sunset. Below, I’ll highlight several tips for planning

    Find the best sunset location

    How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation

    If you’re visiting a new town and searching for an ideal sunset spot, your best bet is to do some online searches. Do a Google image search for “[location] sunset” and see what pops up. Better yet, visit stock image sites and enter similar search queries.

    In most cases, you’ll see sunset photos taken from one or two popular locations. It might take some digging to find out exactly where those spots are, but once you have the answer, you’ll know where to shoot.

    What time is the sunset?

    A simple Google search will tell you exactly when sunset happens in the location of your choice. Keep in mind, however, that the hour or so before sunset is the ideal time of day for most photographers, so you’ll want to show up at your chosen sunset location closer to Golden Hour.

    To really hone in the ideal times of day to shoot in a new location, the PhotoPills app is a handy tool. It’s packed full of information that can help you plan and execute outdoor photo shoots.

    PhotoPills Sunset Planner - How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation

    Image courtesy of PhotoPills

    Camera settings for sunset photos

    Your ideal camera settings for shooting a sunset depend on a variety of factors, but generally speaking, these are some rules to go by.

    Shoot in RAW

    When it comes to shooting the sunset, one of the biggest challenges is making sure your camera captures the same warmth and vibrancy that your eyes are seeing. You can typically make White Balance and Picture Style tweaks in camera (more on those below). But just in case, it’s also a good idea to shoot in RAW to give you greater creative control when you post-process the image.

    Set White Balance

    Leaving your camera White Balance set to Auto might suffice. However, if the color cast of your image is looking too cool or slightly off, try setting your White Balance to Daylight or Cloudy to warm up your shot.

    Shoot in Aperture Priority

    What shooting mode you should use is certainly debatable, but Aperture Priority will give you greater control over the depth of field. Shooting with a small aperture (f-step of f/16 or higher) will give you a large depth of field. This is ideal if you want more of your scene in focus.

    How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation

    Keep ISO Low

    To avoid excessive noise in your image, maintain the lowest possible ISO for the amount of light you have available. If it happens to be a cloudy sunset or you’re shooting a scene with lots of shadows, you might have to increase your ISO unless you use a tripod.

    Composition tips for unique sunset photos

    After you’ve got your ideal sunset spot secured, it’s time to start thinking about what kind of sunset image you want to capture.

    Keep this in mind: the way that most people photograph a sunset is to whip out their camera at hand, point it directly at the sunset and start snapping away. There’s nothing wrong with capturing the sunset this way, but it doesn’t always make for unique images.

    If you’re trying to think outside of the box and get an interesting sunset photo, try some of these tips.

    Zoom in

    How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation

    For most spontaneous sunset photographers, the camera at hand is their point and shoot or cell phone. These cameras are usually equipped with wide-angle lenses. Set yourself apart from the crowd by picking an interesting feature and zooming in.

    Shoot away from the sun

    Instead of shooting directly into the sun, consider pointing your lens in the opposite direction. The bright and often vibrant colors generated by the sunset can make the scene in the opposite direction equally alluring, without having to compensate for shooting directly into bright light.

    Wait for Blue Hour

    Every photographer has heard about Golden Hour, that magical time of day just before sunset. Lesser known is Blue Hour, that brief time of day that begins roughly 10 minutes after the sun has set (and before it has risen at dawn).

    Blue Hour Photography - How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation

    This image was taken just after sunset during Blue Hour.

    The sky isn’t as obviously colorful during Blue Hour as it is during sunset or Golden Hour. However, Blue Hour still offers a window of time when it can be best to shoot cityscapes or landscapes with deep blue tones in the sky. You will almost certainly need a tripod to shoot during Blue Hour as it is significantly darker without the sun. But the lesson here is that many more photo opportunities exist even after sunset.

    Over to You

    Do you have any tips for shooting sunset photos? Share your photos and tips below!

    The post How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation by Suzi Pratt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to do a Photography Alphabet Project

    Do you remember the ransom notes left behind by kidnappers and villains in movies? The notes made up of different letters cut out of magazines? My first encounter with the concept of a ransom note was while watching a movie called Baby’s Day Out. The 1994 movie, aimed at kids, tells the story of a toddler kidnapped by three crooks disguised as photographers (funny, huh?). The kidnappers then leave a ransom note constructed from letters cut from magazines. Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not encouraging kidnapping here, or any criminality for that matter. But this project does involve building up a photographic library of text, for artistic purposes only!

    How to do a Photography Alphabet Project

    Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not encouraging kidnapping here, or any criminality for that matter. But this project does involve building up a photographic library of text, for artistic purposes only!

    We encounter so much written language these days that it is often overlooked as a photographic subject. Written language in any environment is made up of an endless combination of fonts, colors, shapes, and applications. Of course, there are random text generators online, but automated programs won’t add anything to your photographic practice.

    By scoping out letters in the field you’ll train your photographic senses to seek out unusual subjects, an invaluable skill for any photographer. By concentrating on an unusual yet familiar subject, you can build up an interesting and varied typographic library. It’s a great way to view the world through the written word.

    How to do a Photography Alphabet Project

    How to do a Photography Alphabet Project

    Some history of the alphabet

    The first true alphabet was created roughly four thousand years ago in the land of Canaan. The alphabet, containing between 20-32 individual letters, didn’t contain any vowels so people had to guess what vowel sound followed each consonant based on what the word looked like. Despite this, the system worked and ended up replacing the complex system of Egyptian hieroglyphs.

    The new alphabet meant that people didn’t need to memorize thousands of different symbols, allowing more people to communicate through the written word. The Greeks added vowels to the alphabet – creating the first alphabet with a letter to represent every sound in a language. From there, the alphabet spread to Italy where it evolved into the Latin alphabet. The English alphabet evolved after the Romans took the Latin language to Anglo-Saxons England, who amalgamated the Latin and runic alphabet.

    Some letters are harder to find than others. For the letter Y, I had to get a bit more creative – borrowing the registration from an aircraft overhead.

    What you will need

    One of the great things about this project is that it doesn’t require any special equipment. You can simply grab your camera and you are good to go! However, there are a few items that you can pack to make your trip a little easier.

    Bring along a folded piece of paper and a pen to take a tally of the letters you photograph. This way you won’t have to constantly scroll through the photos you have taken previously to check if you’ve stocked up on a particular letter. This is also useful when tracking numbers or upper and lower-case letters you’ve photographed. To separate the tally of each letter more easily, I use a highlighter. That way you won’t get mixed up or add a mark under the wrong letter.

    Scouting for letters

    How to do a Photography Alphabet Project

    A rusty bus zone sign makes for an unusual addition to your alphabet stockpile.

    How to do a Photography Alphabet Project

    Like many subjects, once you start looking for something, you become attuned to the sight of it. This honing-in on detail is an invaluable skill for photographers, who often have to decipher both the detail and greater landscape simultaneously.

    For starters, try collecting letters to make up a phrase. Then go on to building the whole alphabet. The more variety the better. As an extra challenge, try photographing a different source for each letter or add numbers to the mix.

    I found plenty of material from traffic and warning signs alone. You may notice that many signs are made up of eye-catching colors. Red and yellow shades draw attention, so they are commonly used for warnings. By incorporating these bright colors into your collage, you’ll create a very attractive composition. You could even photograph the labels on tins and packets of food. Though if you’re doing this in a supermarket or grocer, be sure to check with the manager first.

    Signage, graffiti, names etched into concrete, there is an endless supply of letters for you to photograph. Post your results in the comments below and nobody gets hurt!

    The post How to do a Photography Alphabet Project by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    I believe it was Robert Capa who said, “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” While this is not incorrect nor is it bad advice, the fact remains that there will be times when our feet simply can’t do the zooming for us. To facilitate getting up close and personal without actually being up close and personal, photographers rely on telephoto lenses to bridge the gap between themselves and their subject.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    The Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 Contemporary Lens

    With each lens I evaluate with every passing year, I am fortunate enough to bear witness to the staggering advances lens manufacturers are making in the world of photographic optics. Today, there are many instances where aftermarket “non-native” third-party camera lenses either meet or even surpass the performance of their more expensive cousins manufactured by their respective camera brand. We now have a high-grade glass without the high-grade price tags. This is especially true when it comes to long range telephotos and fast primes.

    So, when the opportunity arose for me to get my hands on one of the newest budget-conscious telephotos, the Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary lens, I lept at the chance. I have a couple of friends who spoke quite favorably of this particular lens, so I had to see it for myself. Take a few minutes, sit back and relax, and let me tell you exactly why the Sigma 100-400mm might be a good choice for you if your bag is missing a good long-range zoom lens.

    Build Quality

    The main housing of the Sigma 100-400mm lens is made from a solid-feeling hard plastic. Being from the Sigma Contemporary line, it lacks the metallic-feeling TSC (thermally stable composite) construction of their Art series lenses. Even without this type of material, the lens feels incredibly solid in the hand and feels great. The zoom and focus rings are both rubberized and work smoothly.

    The Sigma 100-400mm is exceptionally balanced. Overall, for a lens of this size, it feels surprisingly nimble when mounted on my Canon 7D.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    Oddly enough, the balance seems to improve when the lens is extended out to its maximum focal length of 400mm. The lens hood included with this lens also offers a great hand-hold which facilitates easy “push/pull” zooming.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    The lens sports a zoom-lock switch which is quite useful for carrying around a telephoto lens. This prevents gravity from slowly extending the lens while hiking or walking. The zoom-lock switch on the Sigma 100-400mm firmly locks the lens into place at its 100mm focal length.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    Weather sealing

    The folks at Sigma have beefed up the weather sealing of their lenses considerably. As primarily an outdoor and wilderness shooter, I am constantly at the mercy of the elements. The weather sealing of this lens is superb.

    Something that I love to see is a visible rubber gasket on the lens bayonet mount. This type of extra assurance and protection against dirt and moisture making their way to my camera’s sensor makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside even when the conditions outside are decidedly not.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    One thing to note on the overall design of the 100-400mm is that it certainly has a lot of external switches. While these switches are each quite actionable and serve a purpose, they also make it difficult to manipulate the various lens functions without looking. With high range zoom lenses such as this such problems aren’t uncommon.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    Image Quality

    Sharpness

    The sharpness of the Sigma 100-400mm is wonderful for the price range of this lens. In fact, I was stunned to see just how crisp the images produced at the maximum apertures actually were. Both at 100mm and 400mm the sharpness was impressive.

     

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    400mm at f/9.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    100mm at f/6.3.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    400mm at f/6.3.

    There was slight edge softening while at 100mm f/5 and at 400mm f/6.3. The incredible thing about the sharpness, which I feel speaks to the true quality of this lens, was only noticed while I was examining test images for this review at 3:1 magnification. Look closely at these two photos. The first was made at 100mm.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    100mm

    The second is the same scene but zoomed to 400mm.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    At 400mm.

    Look closely at the left side of the clock tower. Here, let me help you. Below is the same image magnified in post-processing to about 1:1.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    The Same image viewed at 1:1 (100%) in Lightroom.

    Yes, those are wasps or some other type of insects swarming around the clock tower! Considering the small size of the insects coupled with the distance, approximately 600 yards, the resolving power of this lens is exceptional.

    Chromatic Aberration

    Chromatic aberrations detected with the Sigma 100-400mm are barely worth mentioning. At 100mm using a relatively wide f/5 aperture, there is a minutely observable purple/magenta fringe in high contrast areas. Other than that, there is nothing remarkable to speak of with this lens.

    Autofocus Performance

    Fast and responsive is the best description I can give to the 100-400mm Sigma autofocus. The AF performed well and focused locked well while in AI Servo mode on my Canon. The autofocus was quite silent and worked great for not disturbing “temperamental” wildlife.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    Can you spot the hiding deer?

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    There she is, A 400mm reach helps out immeasurably.

    Optical Stabilization

    The point of vibration reduction, sometimes referred to as optical stabilization, is where the Sigma 100-400mm didn’t exactly impress. Not that the OS didn’t work but the overall improvement was not as drastic as I have observed with some other lenses of this type.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    With no stabilization.

    Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens

    With OS1 Mode turned on.

    There are two OS modes present on the 100-400mm not including the “Off” mode. They are OS1 and OS2. The OS1 mode is general OS. This serves to reduce multi-directional camera shake and what I generally left the lens set to during my tests. OS2 is geared exclusively towards panning with the 100-400mm and works to reduce single plane vibration.

    Customization

    Sigma offers a USB dock so that firmware and custom modes can be uploaded directly to the lens via computer with the Sigma Optimization utility. That’s where the custom mode switch comes into play. You can customize Autofocus and Optical Stabilization functions within the lens. I have never used the functionality but if you want ultimate control over every aspect of your gear, this is a great option.

    The Tripod Collar Conundrum

    The common complaint I’ve gathered about the Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 is concerning the lens’s tripod collar; there isn’t one. This comes as somewhat of a surprise to some photographers, myself included. Although, it seems to be of more importance to some than others.

    Personally, the lack of a tripod ring is not a huge problem for me. The featherlike balance of the lens negates the need for a tripod mount in my opinion. Still, if you plan on using the lens with a smaller, adapted camera body, the weight of the lens could be an issue. If you want a lens with a tripod ring or collar, this might not be the choice for you.

    Final Thoughts on the Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3

    So, what’s the bottom line on the Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens?

    First of all, the sharpness is outstanding. Even at its widest aperture, the sharpness is exceptional with very little edge softening.

    The build quality is more than capable of serving as a “go-to” telephoto for sports and outdoor work and the beefy weather sealing only enhances the workability of this lens.

    If you absolutely MUST have the capability of a tripod collar then look elsewhere because the Sigma 100-400mm lens simply doesn’t have one. If you don’t care about that, then for around $ 799 USD, this telephoto from Sigma won’t fail to impress.

    The post Review: Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary Lens by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    Solo indulgence in any form of creative expression can leave you in a vacuum unless you are completely confident and never lack inspiration. I don’t think I know anyone like that. Being a photographer, whether for a living or as a hobby, is often something people do on their own. Here are 6 reasons you should hang out with other photographers, they’re cool.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    #1 – Build Photography Friendships

    If you are interested in photography, meeting other photographers is a great way to make new friends. It’s easier to talk with people who have the same interests as yourself. A conversation about common topics flows more readily and remains more engaging.

    One of the greatest advantages of being friends with other photographers is going places together. You can enjoy spending more time taking photos without being harassed that you’re taking too long. Which is what usually happens when you go places with people who don’t have a camera.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    #2 – Enjoy Diversity

    Meeting other photographers who have interests in different subjects can lead to fresh inspiration. For example, if you love photographing landscapes and become friends with someone who loves photographing people, you can inspire, encourage and challenge one another. This is a wonderful way to learn and explore different subjects, methods, and styles of photography.

    Getting together with photographers who have more or less experience than you brings lots of opportunities to learn, and teach. You will see things differently and use alternative camera settings than other photographers.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    Talking about what you do and how you do it can be a fun learning experience. Spending time making photos with others and sharing your experiences and ways of working will help you become a better photographer.

    #3 – Share Experience

    If you are new to photography, being around other photographers is one of the best ways to learn more. Naturally, it’s advantageous to read and do courses, but photographing with others and sharing the experience is also valuable.

    How you each set your camera, choose what to photograph, how to compose an image and loads of other things can seem overwhelming when you’ve just bought your first camera. Talking about these things with other photographers will teach you more effectively than just reading or doing courses.

    Reviewing your photographs with someone you trust will also be encouraging and help you grow in your creative expression. If you only ever look at your photos alone and do not get any feedback on them it’s very easy to stagnate and not develop creatively.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    Having someone more experienced help you choose your best photos and give you constructive feedback can lead to new understanding and different ways of taking photos that you may not think of on your own.

    #4 – Collaborate

    Collaboration on photographic projects is a lot of fun. Spending time working on the same subject with a common purpose, maybe a gallery show, book or website, with other photographers can really stretch you creatively and help you grow. Each photographer will see things differently and your styles will complement or contrast the other, and add a richer dynamic to your project.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    #5 – Best Friends

    I bought my first camera (a Nikkormat FTN) from a friend who wanted to upgrade. We have another friend who loved photography and the three of us would go out often to different places to take photos together. I learned a terrific amount from these two guys and we had a lot of fun together.

    We’d also review the photos we’d made on previous excursions.  That usually meant sitting around a slide projector for hours enjoying one another’s photos and planning where to go on our next photography outing.

    Over the years I have had photographer friends, some professional, some hobbyists. They’ve been some of my best friends. Now I am married to a photographer and it’s wonderful always having someone to share the experience with, getting constructive informed feedback and continually encouraging one another to do better.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    #6 – Meet Photographers

    There are many ways to meet other photographers and make friends. Local meet-up groups, camera clubs, online groups and forums (like the dPS facebook group). I’m sure if you go down to your local camera store and talk with the owner they would know other keen photographers they could introduce you to.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    Concluding Recommendations

    One other recommendation I would make is to hang out with other photographers who have a similar way of enjoying photography.

    Some people love to go out as much as possible and explore new ways of making great photos. Other people like to spend time discussing equipment and what their next purchase will be. Others still discuss technical details for hours on end.

    6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers

    Finding yourself with people who love the tech side of photography if you’re one who loves to just get out and photograph can be discouraging, so choose your friends carefully. Have fun!

    The post 6 Reasons You Should Hang Out With Other Photographers by Kevin Landwer-Johan appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Super-Charge the Spot Healing Brush Tool in Photoshop

    The Spot Healing Brush Tool is often used in portrait photography to remove blemishes, wrinkles, and other distracting elements. By default, this tool works great, but sometimes you will need to add an extra level of control to get the results that you want.

    In this tutorial, you will learn how to use the Spot Healing Brush Tool with Content-Aware to quickly remove blemishes and other imperfections from your photos.

    Getting Started

    First, create a new layer to work non-destructively (Shift + Ctrl/Command + N).

    Then select the Spot Healing Brush from the Toolbar. Make sure that “Content-Aware” is the selected Type and that “Sample All Layers” is checked in the Options Bar.

    How to Super-Charge the Spot Healing Brush Tool in Photoshop

    Spot Healing Brush Tool – Normal Mode

    With the Spot Healing Brush Tool active, just paint over any distraction to remove it. In most cases, the Spot Healing Brush Tool will do an excellent job in eliminating the problem.

    02 spot healing comparison

    However, there are times where the Spot Healing Brush Tool will destroy the original detail and texture found in the photo, giving you very unrealistic results.

    In the example below, the Spot Healing Brush Tool removed the wrinkles under the eye by adding a skin texture that made the image and problem worse.

    03 spot healing normal

    Left before using the Spot Healing Brush. Right – after using it in Normal mode.

    Using Modes to Enhance the Spot Healing Brush

    For a more realistic result, you need to keep as much of the original detail as possible and only remove the distracting element.

    To do so, first consider the blemish, wrinkle, or distraction you are trying to remove. Is it darker than the skin tone? Or is it brighter than the skin tone?

    If the distraction is lighter, select Darken from the Mode in the Options bar. If the distraction is darker, select Lighten. In this case, the wrinkle is darker than the skin tone. That means that we want to lighten the wrinkles. So in the Options Bar, under Mode, select Lighten.

    04 lighten

    With the brush mode set to Lighten, Photoshop will only replace pixels that are darker than the good portion of the skin. Since the wrinkles and other skin distractions in this photo are darker than normal skin tone, only the distracting elements are removed, leaving more of the original texture surrounding it intact.

    Notice that as you paint over a wrinkle, you don’t lose the original highlights and you keep a lot of detail. The example below shows the results between using Normal and Lighten to apply the same correction.

    05 spot healing normal

    Comparing results from different brush modes. Left: Spot Healing Brush in Normal Mode. Right: Spot Healing Brush in Lighten mode.

    Additional Notes

    To work faster, keep in mind that you can switch between Modes by holding the Shift key and pressing the + or – keys.

    This technique also helps you remove blemishes in areas that contain detail that you would like to keep.

    In the example, below you can see how by using the Lighten mode we were able to remove the skin blemishes while leaving the white hair strands intact.

    06 spot healing forehead

    This technique works in this case because the hair strands are lighter than the skin tone, and the blemishes are darker than the skin tone. The Lighten Mode makes the Spot Healing Brush target only darker pixels, so the fine white strands of hair are left intact.

    This tutorial is part of my Content-Aware series on YouTube. There are more videos there if you would like to learn more about how content-aware works in Photoshop.

    The post How to Super-Charge the Spot Healing Brush Tool in Photoshop by Jesus Ramirez appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Video – How to Shoot Stunning Photos at Sunrise and Sunset

    In another video from Practical Photography, get some really good tips on how to shoot at sunrise and sunset to get the most epic images.

    Follow along as two photographers go head to head in a little friendly competition to get the best sunset and sunrise photos. Get some practical tips that you can use in your photography at these magic hours as well.

    Need more sunrise and sunset tips? Try these dPS articles:

    • 4 Reasons Shooting at Sunrise and Sunset Will Help You Take Better Photos
    • 8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images
    • 7 Uncommon Tips for Winter Sunrise Photos Near Water
    • Tips for Location Scouting to Get the Perfect Sunset Photograph
    • Tips for Doing More Spectacular Sunset Photography
    • 5 Tips to Take Better Sunset Photos – and Why Not to Photograph the Sunset Directly

    The post Video – How to Shoot Stunning Photos at Sunrise and Sunset by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School