Category: Photography

  • Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks

    For myself and many other photographers, probably you included, one of the more difficult parts of the hobby is figuring out where to shoot things like nature photography.

    If you have a big trip or a vacation planned, whether it be an exotic location or somewhere not so far away, then that question is answered for you. But for evening shoots after work, spontaneous sessions or weekend outings, a bit of planning is necessary. Enter the wonders of your local parks!

    Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks

    A park can take many forms and can exist in any location, and almost any country. It is generally defined as a “large public green area, used for recreation”. They come in all sizes, and each features their own unique variety of plants, animals, and landscapes.

    Parks can be as small as a local city or county park, a larger state park, all the way up to a massive national park. Their common thread is that they have been well-defined and set aside for public use, and are perfect areas to practice nature photography.

    Why shoot at a park?

    Parks are unique and useful to us photographers because they can be a testing ground for new equipment, a safe practice area for new techniques, or a fully-realized background for your real work.

    Parks are attractive because they are a (usually) safe, well-defined area, a miniature representation of the local environment. They give you a small, diverse biosphere of flora and fauna, all wrapped up in one package.

    Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks

    Parks are also numerous, and you have a lot to choose from, regardless of size or classification. Even national parks, with the fewest number of all the types, are plentiful. Over 100 countries worldwide have lands designated as national parks, including 59 in the United States alone. This doesn’t even count other sites in the national registry, such as forests, seashores, and historic sites.

    The bottom line is you’ll never have a lack of subject matter when visiting one of these areas.

    Preparing for the shoot

    Preparing for a photo shoot in a park isn’t really any different than most other outdoor environments. You’ll want to pack and check all of your normal gear, including:

    • Camera body – If you’re hiking to a location, you’ll probably want to keep the number of bodies down to one; otherwise, maybe bring a film or instant camera as well for backup.
    • Lenses – Again, you don’t want to weigh yourself down too much, but always bring lenses to cover most of the situations you’ll find yourself in. If you’re shooting landscapes, bring a wide-angle prime lens, or at least a zoom that covers focal lengths down to 18 to 24 mm.
    • Tripod – Some camera bags and backpacks have holders for your tripod. Otherwise, take this into consideration as tripods are often not heavy, but bulky and unwieldy to carry while tromping through the park with your other gear.

    Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks - use a tripod

    • Filters and other accessories – Don’t forget the little things such as UV filters, neutral density filters, remote shutter releases, and microfiber cloths to keep lens glass clean.

    Since you’re shooting outside, you also need to be prepared for events and conditions outside your control, such as the weather. Depending on the size of the park, there may be hiking and long walking involved. So, you’ll also need to plan ahead and consider items such as:

    • Appropriate clothing – Long sleeves and long pants for mosquito-prone environments, hats, extra dry socks for long hikes.
    • Items to protect against the sun – Sunscreen and sunglasses.
    • Defensive items to keep yourself safe – A knife, or bear spray, if you’re traveling into areas where bears are known to live.
    • Location tools – To help identify where you are and where you’re going, such as a GPS receiver, paper maps (absolutely the best idea), and a compass.

    Safety

    As with any outdoor excursions, you’ll need to plan ahead a little, both physically and mentally, when venturing out into a park, especially a state or national park or forest.

    First, just make sure you know what you’re getting into. If you’re going to a large, sprawling national park and have never been to the area before, then it’s pretty tough to physically scout the location before your shoot. The best you can do in that situation is to do as much research as you can online, or talk to friends or co-workers that have been to the area before.

    For a smaller park, or one that’s close by, the best idea is to scout the location first. What hazards are present? Native animals? Plants?

    Here in Florida, we have a tree (uncommon, but it exists in the wild) called a Manchineel. Everything about it from the leaves to the wood itself is extremely toxic. Even brushing up against it can end badly. These are the kinds of things you want to research well before you explore a park, especially the larger ones that may take you into more remote areas.

    photo of a lake - Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks

    Wildlife dangers

    On the fauna side of possible dangers, you have the local wildlife. Here in Florida, it’s primarily alligators and snakes, although some areas of our state are habitats for small populations of bears and panthers. First aid and snakebite kits are a smart idea for almost any wilderness area around the world. Other areas of the United States and around the world have larger animals that can pose a serious threat to explorers and photographers, such as bears.

    Black bears alone exist in approximately 40 of the 50 states in the U.S., and they, along with the other species, need to be respected and avoided. Many photographers and tourists have been making headlines in recent years by getting too close to bears, without thinking of the possible outcomes to themselves or the bear.

    While unprovoked attacks aren’t very common, it is very easy to surprise or startle a bear, and it’s always recommended to carry bear spray in the wild when in bear territory.

    What to Shoot

    The possibilities of subjects in an outdoor park are almost endless. Some of us will go just to shoot a sunrise or sunset, while others want to take home photos of local wildlife.

    Landscape photographers can focus on grabbing a shot of that sunset, or other features of the environment, such as lakes, mountains, and rivers. Open, panoramic scenes captured with wide-angle lenses are a favorite, as are forests, trees and the changes in the color of leaves. Flowing water such as waterfalls or fast moving rivers are good candidates for a long exposure photo, and even plains and prairies can be framed into beautiful minimalist compositions.

    Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks

    There is a never-ending variety of flora and fauna that can be photographed, such as flowers, trees, plants, and animals such as small mammals, reptiles, and an endless variety of birds. Many parks have some species that are concentrated in that area and offer opportunities for us photographers that we can’t get anywhere else.

    Here on the west Florida coast, my nearest state park is home to the Florida Scrub Jay, endemic to this area, and concentrated higher in this one park than anywhere else. It’s almost a rite of passage to photograph one. Many parks around the world are home to their own species as well.

    Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks - bird

    Environmental Awareness

    Finally, we need to address an overall importance when discussing capturing images of our beautiful environment; we as photographers need to be nature’s greatest champions.

    I would suspect that most of us who love to be outdoors, already have a desire to be careful when enjoying our parks. But as we’ve seen recently in the news, not all of us take that into consideration. The commonly heard phrase, “leave nothing but footprints” may sound cliche, but it really is a best-case scenario of what we should strive for as we enjoy the great outdoors.

    Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks - bird photo

    The plants and animals that make their home in these areas were likely there long before we visited. It is our responsibility to leave the areas as we found them, without adding or taking away anything from the environment. This will ensure that future generations of photographers and explorers will be able to enjoy those areas too.

    What was your best experience visiting and photographing a park for nature photography? Where do you want to go that you haven’t been yet? And what tips would you give others who are ready to visit and document the great outdoors? Please comment and let’s discuss below.

    The post Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks by Tim Gilbreath appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Tips for How to Enhance the Mood in Your Foggy Photos

    I love photographs of foggy scenes. It can be a view of a busy street, a sprawling city skyline or a secluded mountain valley. Mist and fog are transformative and can give a well-known location a completely different feeling, filled with mystery and depth.

    How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos

    There are so many things you can do with your foggy images to give them the kind of mood and feel you want.

    In this article, I’m going to choose an image that features fog and edit it a few different ways. I’ll show you a few simple factors that you can put to use to help you learn to completely control the mood of your misty and foggy images.

    The Photo

    This is the photograph that was kind enough to lend itself to be a guinea pig for our little experiments.

    foggy image of a tree - How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos

    It’s an image I made early one morning in the mountains of Virginia and of course, it is a RAW file…for now. Below we’re going to look at how some easy changes can literally transform this photo.

    Contrast

    We all know about contrast to some extent. At its core, contrast is simply the difference between light and dark in an image. When there’s a big difference and the lights are bright and the shadows are dark the photo is said to be high contrast. The opposite is true with low contrast photos where there is a very little gradient between the lights and darks.

    The reason I’m refreshing you with a little Photography 101 is that fog inherently makes most images low contrast. You can choose to further reduce the contrast or bump things up as I’ve done in our first example.

    Here’s our test photo with a large amount of increased contrast (using the Contrast and Blacks sliders) applied.

    How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - higher contrast tree image

    A relatively large amount of contrast in a misty scene instantly changes the tone of the photo by adding a sense of brooding. The light areas become brighter and the shadows deepen. High contrast images, in general, have more impact but that’s more of a preference than a rule.

    Alternatively, you can choose to embrace the softness of foggy images and decrease the contrast even more. Now I’ve lessened the contrast using the Tone Curve to fade out the tree.

    How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - lower contrast tree image

    Low contrast can make your image extremely delicate which imparts an artsy, nearly abstract vibe. Oddly enough, low contrast foggy photos can be surprisingly workable in black and white as well.

    How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - b/w tree

    Color Temperature

    Believe it or not, color temperature has one of the most perceivable impacts on photos of fog and mist. Perhaps even more so than anything the feel of the photograph and how it conveys mood is determined by the temperature of the color tones.

    Now I’m going to take that high contrast version of the photo from the last example and change nothing but the color temperature. The version is nice and soothing cooled down. I adjusted the White Balance from 6150K to 4350K.

    How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - cool image of a tree

    Next, let’s warm the color temperature back up considerably from the base 6150K to 7350K

    How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - warmer image of a tree

    See what a difference that makes? Misty and foggy images with a cooler color temperature are more ethereal and give the viewer a more ominous, darker experience. On the flip side of the temperature coin, warmer toned images are generally viewed as more upbeat and comforting.

    It’s funny how changing the color temperature can have such a drastic effect on identical scenes.

    Brightness

    The overall all brightness of a photo is very subjective but when it comes to foggy photos there’s a very particular change you can make to your photo to take it from mundane to wow. “Wowdane” maybe? You know what I mean.

    You accomplish this by making use of your old friend in Lightroom, the Graduated Filter. I’m going to use the cool toned image from the last example but the only change I’ll make is to add some increased exposure in the top portion of the photo.

    How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - darker

    By brightening up the fog in the tree top the entire photo becomes more impactful and punchy. The fog seems to “glow” and becomes more like something out of the pages of a storybook.

    Experiment with your photo by moving the Graduated Filter around to add directional lighting or even opting for the Radial Filter to localize the effect even more. I use a Graduated or Radial Filters (or both) in virtually all of my landscape and nature photos and it becomes especially useful in those which feature fog or mist.

    Embracing the Haze

    Some final thoughts on working with images of mist and fog include using the suggestions above, but I also encourage you to revisit the same image more than once while editing. Look for ways to change the mood and tone of the photo by changing the color temperatures. Don’t be afraid to go to extremes with contrast.

    The great thing about working with these types of scenes is that they offer incredible creative opportunities for both you and the viewer.

    The post Tips for How to Enhance the Mood in Your Foggy Photos by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – New Things

    Last week your challenge was antiques or old things. So let’s change it up and do the opposite this week.

    I photographed my new Fuji X00F when I first got it.

    Weekly Photography Challenge – New Things

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Image by dPS writer Meredith Clarke.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – New Things by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Introducing the new Sony a7 III – Let’s see what all the fuss is about

    Sony recently released their newest full frame camera, available in April 2018 (at the time of this writing), the Sony a7 III. There’s been a lot of talk about it – let’s take a look at a few hands-on field tests to see what all the fuss is about.

    Official video for the Sony a7 III

    Check out some of the specs and features of the new Sony a7 III in this official product feature from Sony.

    Some of the specs for the Sony a7 III at a glance include:

    • 24-megapixel full-frame sensor
    • 5-axis image stabilization
    • 4K video
    • 693 focus points (same as the more expensive a9)
    • 10 frames per second mechanic shutter
    • 15 stops dynamic range
    • Dual memory card slot
    • Uses new NP-FZ100 battery with an improved life up to 710 shots per charge
    • Touch-screen for focus
    • Ultrafast tracking focus and eye focus

    Things missing:

    • No GPS
    • No time-lapse

    Sneak peak and predictions

    ?
    Dave Altizer from Kinotika goes over some of the specs of the Sony a7 III and why you might be excited about this entry-level full frame camera. Coming in at $ 2000, it has many features of its big siblings the a7R III and a9, without the big hit to your pocketbook.

    Early thoughts

    In this video from PhotoRec TV, hear why this photographer’s headline for the Sony a7 III is,

    “With this camera, there isn’t much to complain about!”

    He talks about some of the differences between the Sony a7 III and the a7R  III, as well as the high-end a9. Also, learn about some of the things he’s excited about in regards to this new camera including the longer lasting battery, dual slots, the joystick, USB-C, and touchscreen interface.

    Full hands-on review

    Finally, in this video go more in-depth with a hands-on review from Sony artisan photographer, Jason Lanier. He puts the camera through its paces testing the autofocus, burst shooting rate, buffer time, and more. This is a really helpful, real-world review that may help you decide if this camera is for you.

    If you found that one valuable he’s got another video where he tests Canon lenses on the Sony a7 III with amazing results. And he doesn’t even own a Canon camera body!

    What are your thoughts? I don’t know about you, but just watching these videos I was really impressed with its fast focus abilities. This could be a game-changer for sports or wildlife shooters, or even those doing video. Are you ready to give the Sony a7 III a try?

    The post Introducing the new Sony a7 III – Let’s see what all the fuss is about by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    There’s no feeling quite like the dread that sets in when you are reviewing your photos from the day and you notice that some of those stellar images you snapped are soft and out of focus. For photographers who like to shoot with a wide aperture, sometimes hitting your focus is like walking on a tightrope – and missing by just a tiny little bit can seriously ruin your day.

    An image showing accurate focus with a wide aperture - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    The watch is the focal point of this shot, and some careful technique helped ensure that it stayed tack sharp.

    Editing can do a lot to save a picture; you can make areas of it brighter or darker, you can modify colors and add your own distinctive style – but there’s no way to completely fix a shot where the focus simply missed.

    Fortunately, when shooting in controlled situations, there’s a useful trick for making sure each and every shot is in razor-sharp focus.

    Why are some of my shots out of focus?

    In a perfect world, cameras would adjust correctly to the lighting and dynamics of every shot and deliver focus with pinpoint precision. Unfortunately, reality gets in the way.

    There are a few reasons why your shots sometimes come out a bit soft, meaning that the camera has decided to focus a bit too far in front or behind the target you were actually aiming for.

    Lack of contrast

    Cameras determine focus based on contrast. When you try to focus on an object that doesn’t have much contrast, say a smooth white wall, for example, there isn’t contrast for the camera to lock onto. Sometimes the camera will hunt for a focus point, shifting back and forth for a few seconds, and then give up. Sometimes the camera focus will latch onto a different part of the picture, putting your true subject out of focus.

    An image of a Christmas Tree ornament where the autofocus grabbed onto the wrong spot in the image - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    This shot was supposed to be focused on the red ornament, but finer details in the background and the flicker of lights grabbed the attention of the camera’s autofocus instead.

    An image of a Christmas tree ornament with accurate focus - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    After flipping over to manual focus and choosing the focus point more deliberately, the final shot looks a whole lot better!

    This can also be a problem in low light conditions. Once again, the camera doesn’t have any strong contrasts to grab onto and can miss its target.

    Bad focus caused by user error

    As much as we hate to admit it, user error can cause some missed focus problems too. If you lock your focus on a target, then either move the camera or wait too long and allow the target to move significantly from where it once was, the resulting shot isn’t going to be razor-sharp.

    Another common problem for shooters using autofocus is when the focus locks on an unintended part of the image, leaving the main subject blurry. One good way to counter this is to choose a more specific focus mode, such as single point focus.

    A chess board image with accurate focus managed using Live View - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    The focus of this shot is tight on the King, emphasizing the piece’s importance in the game.

    A chess board image with missed focus - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    Here the autofocus grabbed a different part of the frame, leaving this picture without a clear subject or purpose.

    Slow shutter speed

    Some blur that looks like missed focus could also be the result of using a shutter speed that is too slow. The resulting movement in the camera from pressing down the shutter button can blur out the fine details in your shot.

    If your shot isn’t turning out right, take time to consider whether it might be because of one of these common problems before you throw your camera at the wall in frustration.

    So how can Live View help me with focus?

    Live View is a mode where you can see through your lens using the LCD screen on the back of your camera. It can be used to pinpoint your focus in situations when your subject isn’t moving and your camera is on a tripod.

    The advantage of using the camera’s LCD screen is that you get a 100% accurate look at how the picture is going to turn out once you press the shutter button.

    Using Live View on a camera for accurate focus - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    The camera is set up in Live View mode, ready for precision focusing.

    Live view set to magnify the image five times

    In Live View mode, you can focus up to 5 times magnification.

    Live view set to magnify the image ten times - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    Some cameras can even zoom to 10 times magnification, helping guarantee that the focus is precise, even at f/1.8.

    This technique is mostly useful at wider apertures when your camera’s autofocus may miss its target, even with using single point focus. When shooting at a wide aperture of f/4 or lower, the margin for error is very slim. With an extremely narrow depth of field, missing your focus by even a couple of centimeters could make those crucial details in your shot looks soft.

    If you are taking a landscape photograph and are using a narrow aperture (such as f/16) to keep as much detail in focus, there is a lot more room for error.

    What about using the single point focus mode?

    For precision focusing, the single point focus mode goes a long way.

    This is a mode where you can choose just one point for the camera to automatically focus with, rather than allowing the camera to consider the entire scene.

    A good opportunity for using single point focus - Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images

    Single point mode was a good choice here in order to make sure the focus was accurate on the orange insect.

    When you need to nail a tough shot on a moving subject, single point focus is definitely the way to go. For stationary subjects, however, shooting in manual focus mode and using Live View to ensure your focus is tack sharp removes any potential for trouble. Even single point focus can have issues with accuracy in dark or low contrast situations.

    Read more here: 6 Ways to Use Live View to Get Sharper Image and here 4 Tips for Using for Live View to Get Sharper and More Creative Images.

    Less misses, more keepers

    Discovering what subjects you like to photograph and chasing unique moments with a camera is a thrill. And practicing your focusing technique and using tricks like Live View focusing can help you make sure you come home with more and more keepers after every shoot!

    The post Focus Challenges and How Live View Can Help You Get Razor-Sharp Images by Frank Myrland appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • 7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    I love rainy days. I always feel more productive when I can hear droplets hitting the ground or pinging off my umbrella. But apparently I’m in the minority, so on this rainy day I thought I’d compile a list of things that I like to do when the clouds open up.

    Feeling inspired but stuck indoors at home? Here are a few photography activities that are great for those rainy days or weekends at home, and sunny days too!

    1 – Rainy Scenery

    7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    An easy way to create atmospheric images on rainy days is to photograph dramatic scenes through the droplets on your window pane. The more droplets, the more drama and contrast your images will have.

    Try changing the focal length of your camera lens to reveal rainscapes in the distance or close-up of water droplets.

    2 – Get Close

    Macro photography is a great activity to do at home. Because the home is a relaxed environment, you’re free to take your time and get that perfect shot. Often, on location, I feel rushed to complete a shot as best I can in a limited amount of time.

    macro - 7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    But at home, you can slow down and experiment which is great for macro photography because it is such a sensitive process. You don’t need to look far for interesting subject matter either. Macro photography reveals a hidden world wherever you look.

    Try photographing plant life in your garden or droplets of rain on your window pane.

    macro - 7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    3 – Making Do

    Photography isn’t always about traveling around. Sometimes it’s nice to just stay home and relax with some in-house photography.

    You may interact with it every day, but your house is a treasure trove of photographic opportunity. But often, familiarity can fatigue the creative eye. What forgotten bits and pieces do you have hidden away in the craft box? Imagine yourself as a stranger seeing your home for the first time, what are the most interesting things you have on display? It’s amazing what you can uncover with a shift in perspective.

    Don’t be afraid to “make do” with a bit of craft. This little guy was photographed with a background constructed of aluminum foil and cardboard. Simply grab a piece of cardboard (the size is up to you, but the larger the cardboard the more light you will be able to reflect on your subject) and cover it with aluminum foil.

    Here, I sat the figurine on one end of the reflector and propped the other end up to form the background of the image. This is great for product photography too.

    7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    4 – Give Scanography a Go

    Scan-o-what? Scanography! Scanography is photography with a scanner.

    If you have a scanner at home, grab a few bits and pieces and try placing them on the scanner. Flat objects like flowers or paper work the best. Activate the scanner and review the results!

    It’s a simple project that yields some very interesting imagery.

    7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    5 – Revisit Older Photographs

    How long has it been since you looked back over your older work?

    On rainy days, I often enjoy revisiting files from a couple of years ago to see if I can uncover some hidden or forgotten gems. Nothing is more telling than the difference between your editing techniques a year ago compared to today.

    I’m always surprised by how much my editing has changed and improved, even in a short period of time. Often I’ll come across photos that are definitely worth a re-look and re-edit.

    7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home

    Before and after. My original edit for this image was a conversion to black and white. Recently, when I revisited this file, I realized that I was letting the beautiful colors go to waste!

    6 – Lightning Photography

    If you are stuck at home during an evening storm? If so, why not try your hand at a bit of lightning photography?

    Grab your camera and set it on a sturdy surface or tripod. Point your lens in the direction of the lightning, set your camera to Shutter Priority mode and select about 30-second exposure. At night, it’s best to set the ISO to the lowest setting possible.

    Don’t wait for the lightning to hit before pressing the shutter button, you’ll never catch it in time! Instead, depress the shutter and wait for the 30 seconds to lapse. With a bit of luck, you’ll capture a decent bolt while the shutter is open!

    More on lightning photography here: How to Photograph Lightning – the Ultimate Guide

    7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home - lightning

    7 – Make a Mood Board

    If you’re like me and you love to have plenty of inspirational material around, why not make a mood board?

    A mood board includes everything from prints to objects and notes or online sources, anything that informs and inspires your artistic practice. You can also make use of websites like Tumblr and Pinterest to create an online mood board to sort through the myriad of amazing images on the internet.

    Having a mood board can also be therapeutic when too many ideas start to become overwhelming. Drawing diagrams and making notes that you can view physically is a proven way of easing anxiety and increasing productivity.

    Conclusion

    So next time you find yourself stuck at home on a rainy day, count yourself lucky! Take some time to have a look around and change up your photography a little.

    The post 7 Ideas for Rainy Day Photographic Activities at Home by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not – The Art of Self Image Critique

    One of the common issues that amateur or newbie photographers often have is deciding which photos to include in their portfolio or website. The great thing about photography is that it is subjective, and every person will have different ways of assessing if they like a photo or not, doing an image critique.

    You should always aim to photograph what you enjoy with your own unique style and vision. But sometimes, especially if you are looking to earn money from your images, you will need to consider other people’s tastes and needs. Here is a quick guide on how to know if your photo is good or not.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    1. Is it Technically Good?

    Different photographers have different workflows, but often for most, it starts with actually checking if a photo is technically good because let’s be honest, a blurred or poorly focused photo isn’t going to make it into your portfolio.

    So a good first step when evaluating a particular photo is checking that it is sharp with good tonal range, good contrast between shadows and highlights and focused correctly on the right part of the scene.

    Of course, there might be occasions when a photo might be slightly off in terms of focus, for example, but it still works and if you want to showcase it in your portfolio that’s fine. But the majority of the time, a blurred photo can be discounted.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    Image not sharp and not completely in focus.

    2. Is it Missing Something?

    Sometimes you can look at one of your photos and you can tell that it is missing something.

    It might be a quiet cobbled street that just looks empty without a person in the shot. Or it might be a landscape image that’s missing a point of interest. These are the type of photos that you look at and think, “I wish I had done this” or “if only there was something or someone in that spot”.

    If you think that about one of your images, then it’s probably missing that certain something that would make it a great photo.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    Whilst it’s a nice landscape and sunrise, there is no point of interest. Would have improved with a boat in the lake or similar point of interest.

    3. The Stop Test

    One of my favorite tests when I edit a collection of my photos is what I call the “stop test”. As you flick through one of your galleries of photos – whether that’s on your smartphone, your computer, or even your camera, there are usually some photos that make you stop.

    Sometimes it might just be a split second longer than usual, but you did still pause briefly from continuing to flick through the set to look at that one photo.

    This is usually a good sign that there is clearly something about that particular shot that grabs your attention. If it can grab your attention it might grab the attention of others as well.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    4. Are You Being Sentimental?

    One thing that is really easy to do, as a photographer, is to get sentimental about a photo. Regardless of how detached you want to make yourself when editing your photos, there will still be that part of you that remembers what it took to capture the shot.

    It might have been that you spent hours getting to a location or maybe it reminds you of a memorable encounter with someone interesting. No photographer is a robot and we are all guilty of being sentimental about some of our images.

    So try to ask yourself, if you are unsure about an image, if it is actually a good photo, or you are just being sentimental.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    Even though it took a while to get up to this point to be able to capture the photo, the lack of light means the image doesn’t work.

     5. Is it Different Than What Already Exists?

    In this era of digital photography, often the biggest challenge is capturing unique photos. But that is also a good test of whether you should include a photo in your portfolio or not.

    It could be that the photo you have taken is perfectly fine, but if you have managed to capture something unique that doesn’t already exist, then it might be a great photo. The key is to search what already exists and see if your image is better or different than others.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    6. Can You See it Being Used?

    Even if you are not planning on selling your photos, trying to envision them being used in real life scenarios can often be a good guide as to how good they are.

    When you look at your image can you imagine it being used on the cover of a magazine or to illustrate something for a feature or story? Can you see it on a billboard, flyer, or even a postcard? If you can imagine your photo in those scenarios then it’s probably a good photo and you should include it in your portfolio.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    7. Go With Your Gut

    For all of the different ways that you can critique or evaluate a photo, sometimes you just have to go with your gut feeling.

    Sometimes you could be proved right and that image that you were unsure of, leads to work or even ends up making sales. Always remind yourself that photography is subjective and at some point, we all look at a photo we’ve taken and just have a good feeling about it.

    How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not - The Art of Self Image Critique

    Taken at a local market in London, it was a last minute decision to submit this image to my agency. Since then it has made over $ 350 worth of sales.

    Conclusion

    These are just some of the ways that can help you assess if a photo is good or not. But remember that these are not hard and fast rules that you should adhere to all the time.

    Not every photo will fall into every point above and that doesn’t make it a bad photo. Use these points as a guide when you are really stuck on an image and if in doubt go with your gut feeling.

    Read more on image critique tips in these dPS articles:

    • How to Critique Your Images Objectively: Ask for Other Points of View
    • Constructive Photography Critique: How to Give and Receive with Grace
    • 4 Ways Self-Critique Can Improve Your Photography

    The post How to Know if Your Photo is Good or Not – The Art of Self Image Critique by Kav Dadfar appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • 5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject

    Being in front of the camera is daunting, to say the least, not to mention staring at a big black lens in front of you. I understand how my subjects feel because I totally hate being photographed. In this article, I’ll give you five portrait posing tips to help flatter your subjects.

    1. Relaxed posture

    5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject

    Getting your subject into a relaxed posture is easier said than done! But relaxing for portraits is definitely not synonymous to slouching. I tell my subject to close their eyes and take some deep breaths, give their arms and hands a good shake, breathe out, and then open their eyes.

    It’s easier for men. I tell them to relax into their normal stance and give them instructions from there. For men, it is generally a slouching issue. I tell them to straighten their spine and not to slouch. This makes them look taller and leaner and gives them square shoulders rather than droopy. However, this posture can look a bit stiff too so I ask them to gently breathe out as this releases the tension on the shoulders.

    Relaxing for women is a little bit trickier but the above is a good start. Sometimes it helps them to imagine that a string is attached to their spine and I am pulling it gently upwards. The key word here is gently!

    2. Weigh distribution

    5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject

    I get women to stand with one leg slightly behind the other and to put their weight on the back leg. With the weight distributed more on the back hip and leg, I get them to lean their upper body forward toward me to balance the weight distribution and slightly twist their body to either the left or right.

    It’s a very subtle chest-forward-booty-back pose and you really want it to be subtle. It is important to make sure that you are not looking up at your subjects but that your camera is ever so slightly looking down at them. This pose and your camera angle combined gives your subject a more flattering and leaner look. Don’t overdo the looking down angle, a slight camera tilt will do. This is not the bird’s eye view pose.

    Men don’t need to redistribute their weight backward and forwards like women. I find that an even central distribution of weight works better for them. Getting them to put their thumbs in their pockets helps achieve this. If I feel they need to slightly loosen up, I just tell them to gently breathe out.

    3. Leaning

    5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject

    With their spines straight, find a wall or structure your subjects can lean on. I usually start with having them lean with their backs flat against the structure and I instruct them to pull away from one side until I feel the right angle is achieved.

    Sometimes, this pose ends up as just one shoulder leaning. The important thing is that the resulting image does not look like your subject is missing a limb or shoulder as can happen sometimes if you are not careful with the angles.

    4. Chin forward

    5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject

    Women are extremely conscious about double chins and their faces not looking as lean as they’d like in their images. A bad habit that many women do instinctively when they are photographed is to tilt their chins upwards thinking this removes any double chins.

    This looks very unnatural and awkward and gives them a longer neck and a shorter face. When you speak to people, you don’t stick your chin up at them, do you? Instead of chinning up, I get them to push their chins forward and down a touch. This gives them a slight stretchy pain on the back of the neck and feels unnatural, but looks really flattering.

    The forward action eliminates the double chin and tipping the chin slightly downwards makes the face look leaner.

    You can modify this pose slightly by asking them to point their chins towards one shoulder and if the shoulder is droopy, they can lift the shoulder bone up a touch. This not only gives them a taller and leaner posture but adds angles as well to improve the composition of the image.

    5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject - chin out

    5. Connection

    On any of the above and at any point during the session, breathing out helps your subject be more at ease so just remind them to do so. You also want them to always have a connection, just like the direction of the chin connecting to the direction of the shoulder for some angles.

    Their gaze also needs to connect to either their body or their environment. You don’t want your images to look like the subject is in a vacuum. Looking straight at the camera connect them to the viewer. If you are shooting outdoors, you could instruct your subject to look at the horizon in the far distance or a tree nearby.

    If they are holding something like flowers or a coffee mug, you could ask them to look down at what they have in their hands. Check that they don’t look asleep though so adjust your position and take a few images.

    5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject

    Conclusion

    I hope these 5 quick portrait posing tips are helpful for you when you do your next photo session. If you have any other posing tips please share them in the comments below.

    The post 5 Quick Portrait Posing Tips to Flatter Your Subject by Lily Sawyer appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography

    Over the years I’ve learned some hard lessons when it comes to landscape photography and the obligatory use of a tripod. Love them or loath them, tripods are an essential piece of kit for landscape photography. With these 5 simple tips I hope to help you love your tripod and improve your photography experience.

    1 – How to shoot vertical with your tripod

    When you need to shoot a vertical image you’ll find it much more comfortable to tilt your camera to the left (counter clockwise) when using a ball head. If you tilt it to the right (counter clockwise) you’ll discover that things get really cramped, especially if you want to get your camera low to the ground and you can’t physically fit your arm in the space you’ve got left.

    How to go vertical on your tripod - 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography

    Tilt the tripod head to the left!

    Most cameras also have the battery compartment under the hand grip on the right side so when you need to change batteries you’ll find it much easier if your camera is tilted to the left (counter clockwise). If you look at the image above you’ll notice all of the camera controls are easily accessible on the top of the camera.

    2 – Don’t force it

    Don't force tha camera on the tripod - 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography

    An example of the camera being forcibly adjusted. Instead of stressing the clip, simply adjust the ball head.

    I often see my beginner students trying to use brute strength to reposition the camera on their ball head tripod. The result will eventually be a broken ball head, and on one extreme occasion I actually watched the camera pop out of the clip and plummet to its untimely death.

    So if you need to reposition your camera simply loosen one of the locking mechanisms on the ball head, reposition it, and then tighten the locking mechanism. You’ve paid for all of that engineering, you might as well use it.

    3 – Let go of the tripod

    Hands off your tripod - 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography

    Unless you’re worried it’ll blow away, let go of your tripod!

    Sounds obvious right? I’ve been shooting professionally for a few years and yet I still occasionally do this. It makes sense to hold on to your tripod when shooting in gale force winds. But in most circumstances you won’t need to do that and you’ll capture much sharper images without the vibration of your hands touching the tripod.

    The purpose of a tripod is to keep your camera perfectly still so that you capture a beautifully sharp image. Touching it defeats the purpose – so hands off!

    4 – Make sure everything is locked down tight

    Tighten Up Your Tripod - 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography

    A common problem with tripods is that the screw which attaches the clip mount to the ball head can often work itself loose. Be sure to always carry the correct hex key for those rare but vitally important moments when you’ll need it.

    I also recommend that you make sure that all of the other locking mechanisms on your tripod are firmly locked down. If there’s even the slightest amount of play in any of these you’ll have problems later during post-processing if your images don’t line up and you planned on blending multiple exposures.

    Check that the legs lock securely as well – the screws may need to be tightened from time to time. Sometimes the legs work themselves loose and can slowly close in on themselves causing movement during your exposure, or worse – the entire tripod to collapse.

    5 – Empty the water out of the tripod legs

    If you do a lot of shooting in rivers, lakes, and oceans, you’ll discover that your telescopic tripod legs magically suck in and store water. To avoid a surprise drowning of your camera, be sure to remove the camera before you pick up the tripod and tip it upside down as water from the legs will pour out of the top of the tripod – all over your precious camera.

    It’s also a good idea to do this before putting the tripod back in your car, tent, or camera bag. The last thing you want is a soggy tent.

    Want more tripod tips?

    I’ve got more tips where these came from so please let me know if you’d like to see more. If you’ve got your own tips to add please post a comment and let me know what tripod lessons you’ve learned the hard way.

    The post 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography by Gavin Hardcastle appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • How to Add a Lens Flare Effect in Photoshop

    Do you put a hood on your lens to avoid lens flare? Are you always moving and reframing so that the light source is behind you? Then you have missed out on some great creative opportunities. But not to worry, in this tutorial you can learn how to add a lens flare effect in Photoshop.

    Before after lens flare effect tutorial

    What is lens flare?

    A lens flare usually occurs when you have an intense light source hitting the camera either directly or by reflection. This light then gets scattered inside the lens and creates visible marks on your photo like colored circles, starbursts or a haze that covers the image.

    How it’s manifested and how big the flare is depends on the intensity of the light, the angle at which it hits the camera, and also the elements inside the lens that cause the refraction. You can recreate a lens flare in Photoshop by going to Menu > Filter > Render > Lens Flare.

    Photoshop Lens Flare Filter Tutorial -

    A window will pop up where you’ll see a thumbnail of the picture, just click on the area where you want to place the source of the flare, typically in the brightest point. You can also adjust the brightness of the flare, just by dragging the slider.

    Finally, you can choose the type of lens. As I mentioned at the beginning, lens flare is caused by the scattering of light inside the different parts of the lens and therefore lenses with different components will cause different kinds of flares. When you are done just click OK.

    Photoshop Lens Flare Filter Tutorial Menu

    That’s pretty straightforward right? But the result is pretty basic.

    35mm Prime lens flare effect Photoshop tutorial

    Well, there’s a bit more to it in order to really make the most of this effect. You probably noticed that you set up your flare only with a thumbnail preview, therefore you would probably want to go back to it for adjustments after you see it in the full-size screen, but this is not possible.

    So the first trick to mastering the lens flare effect is to turn it into a Smart Filter.

    What is a Smart Filter?

    Smart Filters is a tool to apply filters in a non-destructive way, so you can adjust, remove, or hide it as many times as you like. To do this go to Menu > Filter > Convert for Smart Filters. A warning window pops up to tell you that in order to make your filters Smart, it needs to convert the layer into a Smart Object, click OK.

    To learn more about Smart Objects you can read about them in my previous tutorial How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop.

    Now you can now go back to apply the filter as you did before: Menu > Filter > Render > Lens Flare. Each time you want to go back to change anything you just have to double-click on the filter.

    Photoshop Lens Flare Smart Filter Tutorial

    You can now go back and adjust the brightness, type of lens and re-position the light source. That’s better don’t you think?

    50 300mm zoom lens flare effect Photoshop tutorial

    Map out where to put your flare using coordinates

    However, you still have to do this in the small thumbnail which can be difficult to do if you want to place the flare in a really specific spot. To overcome this problem, there is a simple way to get around it.

    Before you open the filters, decide where you want to put the source, zoom into the image and check the coordinates. If your Info tab is not already opened, you can get to it by going to Menu > Window > Info or just pressing F8. There you will see all the color information for each pixel but also the exact coordinate of it in the spaces called X and Y.

    Just hover over the place where you want to place your source and take a note of the coordinates.

    Info Coordinates Photoshop Lens Flare Filter Tutorial

    Now that you know where you want to put your lens flare you can go ahead and do your filter normally. Setup the filters as Smart Filters and then go to Render > Lens Flare filter. Adjust the brightness and type of lens that you want.

    To position the source this time though, hold the Alt key when you click on the thumbnail and a new window will open. You can then enter the exact coordinates you selected before.

    Position Photoshop Lens Flare Filter Tutorial

    In the end, just process the image as you would normally for exposure and color and you’re done!

    105mm Prime lens flare effect Photoshop tutorial

    One last trick!

    When you want to change the direction of the flare, you won’t find this as an option offered in the adjustments of the filter. What you can do is apply it separately and then move it.

    First, create a new layer by going to Menu > Layer > New Layer and fill it with black. You can do this by going to Menu > Edit > Fill and choose to use Black as Content. This new empty black layer is where you’re going to apply your Lens Flare without turning it into a Smart Filter because there’s no information to protect in this layer.

    Photoshop Lens Flare Filter Tutorial New Layer

    With the Lens Flare being independent of the main image, you can move it around as you want. Just select the layer by going to Menu > Edit > Free Transform and then you can rotate and move it until you’re satisfied.

    Photoshop Lens Flare Filter Tutorial New Layer Free Transform

    There you have it, three tips to really master the Lens Flare in Photoshop. Please show us your best results in the comments section below.

    Lens flare effect tutorial Photoshop

    The post How to Add a Lens Flare Effect in Photoshop by Ana Mireles appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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