RSS
 

Archive for the ‘Photography’ Category

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

09 Jun

Astrophotography has become increasingly popular in recent years, with good reason. There’s something about the night sky, stars, and The Milky Way that are fascinating to us. They remind us of how small we are and how huge the universe we live in really is. Photographing them can make for some pretty spectacular images.

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking - night photo with Milky Way visible

Digital Noise in Astrophotography

As camera technology has advanced, photographing the night sky has become possible for photographers of all levels and budgets. Low-light performance continues to improve, allowing us to photograph the stars at higher and higher ISOs. However, digital noise continues to be one of the biggest challenges for astrophotographers.

There are a number of different approaches to dealing with digital noise in your astrophotography, from your camera settings to the way you process them in post-production.

Digital noise is caused by a couple of things. Firstly, the camera sensor heats up as it exposes an image, causing an increase in noise. Secondly, an increase in sensor sensitivity, or ISO, can lead to more digital noise in your images. As both high ISO values and long exposures are going to lead to more digital noise, you’re going to need a strategy to deal with it in your astrophotography.

path to the ocean with Milky Way in the night sky - How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

Exposure Stacking

There is a technique called exposure stacking that is very effective in reducing the digital noise in your photos. You take multiple exposures with the same settings, stack them into layers inside Photoshop, align the stack, then Photoshop will create an image based on the median of all the stacked exposures. The final image will show the parts of your exposures that are consistent through each layer, like the stars. Because digital noise is random, and changes from one exposure to the next, it will not be visible in the final stacked image.

If you’re still following me, great. It sounds complicated, but I’m going to walk you through exposure stacking step-by-step and you’ll see it’s really not that difficult. It can take a little time to get right, but it’s totally worth it when you see the difference it can make in your night sky photos.

Milky Way beach photo - How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

Capturing the Stars In-Camera

There are plenty of other articles that will teach you in detail how to take great astrophotography, so I won’t go into it here. However, there are a few considerations that are required to get the exposures correct in order to be able to use the exposure stacking technique later.

1. You need multiple exposures with the same camera settings. You can take as many shots as you want, but I would suggest using a minimum of 10. Try to capture them as close together as possible to minimize movement of the stars between each exposure. The more time that lapses from the first exposure to the last, the more work will be required to stack them properly.

2. Turn off Long Exposure Noise Reduction. This is probably called something like “Long Exposure NR” in your camera. It will cause each exposure to take twice as long when it’s turned on, meaning there will be twice as much movement of the stars between exposures. It also means you’ll be double-processing your images, causing a reduction in image quality.

3. Make sure the stars in your photos are pinpoint. They need to be sharp and have as little streaking as possible. You can work out the maximum exposure time to create pinpoint stars based on the focal length of your lens using this tool.

Import and Develop in Lightroom

Again, there is a wealth of information about how to process astrophotography in Adobe Lightroom. All I do in Lightroom is check each exposure to eliminate any images that are unusable due to camera movement, do a basic edit, then open my selected images to Photoshop as layers.

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

Use “Open as Layers in Photoshop” to do exposure stacking. Go to: File > Edit In > Open as Layers in Photoshop.

The main things to remember here are that you make sure to sync your edits with all the exposures that you’ll be using and to avoid over-processing the images in Lightroom. Avoid sharpening and noise reduction at this stage of the process. Also take it easy on contrast, clarity, and dehaze. You can perform more creative edits on the final stacked image.

Aligning and Stacking Exposures in Photoshop

Ensuring your images are all aligned correctly is vital when doing exposure stacking. If they are not, you will end up with blurry stars. There are a couple of ways to align exposures. Try the auto-alignment method first and if it doesn’t do a good job you’ll need to use the manual method.

Auto Alignment

  1. Select all layers.
  2. Select Edit > Auto-Align Layers…
  3. Select Auto. Click OK.

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking - auto-align layers

Manual Alignment

    1. Make only the bottom two layers visible.
    2. Select the second layer and change its blend mode to Difference. You’ll see the image go mostly black with white specks. The white areas represent the parts of the two visible images that are not aligned correctly.

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

  1. Click Edit > Free Transform.

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking - free transform

  1. Click View and make sure Snap is unchecked.
  2. Zoom in on a corner, hold down command/control and move the corner box around until you see the white parts of the image line up and turn black. It will take some trial and error.

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

    1. Repeat with each corner of the image. You may need to go back to readjust a corner that you’ve already moved. It won’t be perfect, but try to get it as close as possible.
    2. Press return to exit Free Transform mode, then change the blend mode back to Normal.
    3. Make the layer you’ve just adjusted invisible and the next one up visible.
    4. Repeat with every layer, aligning each one with the base layer until they’re all aligned as well as possible.

Stacking Layers

  1. Make sure all layers are visible and selected.
  2. Right-click on one of the layers and click Convert To Smart Object.

How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

  1. Click Layer > Smart Objects > Stack Mode > Median.

<ol> <li>

Finish up

When Photoshop has finished working its magic, you should end up with an image that’s much cleaner with significantly less noise than you started with. Your stars probably won’t look quite as sharp when zoomed into 100%, especially if the alignment wasn’t quite right, but you’ll be the only person who looks that closely. Don’t forget to crop the edges that have moved during the alignment process.

Now you can apply any other creative edits you might like to your image. You can either do this while still in Photoshop or save the image and apply the adjustments back in Lightroom.

This may seem like a complicated process, but once you’ve done it once or twice you’ll get much quicker. If you’re anything like me, you’ll find the effort is worth it for the lovely, clean, noise-free astrophotography images it gives you.

The post How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Reduce Digital Noise in Astrophotography Using Exposure Stacking

Posted in Photography

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – Backlighting

09 Jun

Light is the most important thing in photography – you’ll hear that from many pros and teachers. There are many creative ways to use light, different colors of light, and direction of light.

This week we’re going to focus on one particular direction of light – backlighting – for this week’s photography challenge.

With the sun behind the subject here, it gives her a nice outline or rim lighting effect. A reflector was used to add light back into her face so it wasn’t too dark. 

There are many subjects that look great with backlighting – in particular flowers and leaves. As they are slightly translucent objects, the light comes through them and gives them a nice glow. Other items have unique shapes or texture are highlighted with backlighting.

The color of leaves really jumps out when they are backlit.

The sun hitting this yellow leaf from behind really makes it stand out against the dark wood of the old bridge.

This little cactus has all of its spines really stand out due to the backlighting.

If you need more help on this topic, read: How to Understand Natural Light Part 3: Direction of Light – or How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Backlighting can make your subject in shadow so be conscious of that.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Backlighting

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Backlighting appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Weekly Photography Challenge – Backlighting

Posted in Photography

 

Video Tips: How to Photograph Lightning

08 Jun

Storms and bad weather doesn’t mean you have to stop shooting and go indoors. In fact, sometimes you can get more dramatic images in bad weather. So in this article, we’ve found two video tips to help you learn how to photograph lightning.

Adorama TV – Shooting Lightning

In this video, Mark Wallace gives you the 8 steps he uses to photograph lightning.

?

Here are the 8 steps Mark recommends:

  1. Set your camera to Manual Mode.
  2. Set your shutter speed to 30 seconds.
  3. Select an aperture of f/10.
  4. Set the ISO to 100.
  5. Shoot in RAW format.
  6. Set your focus on manual mode, and focus just shy of infinity.
  7. Use a wide-angle lens.
  8. Put your camera on a tripod.
  9. BONUS: Use a remote shutter release to trigger the camera.

Lightning Photography Tutorial

Next, photographer Pecos Hank has a great tutorial on photographing lightning.

?

He covers some of the same tips as the first video, and a few others as well such as the opportunity to also make a time-lapse of your lightning photos.

For other storm photography or chasing tips read:

  •  7 Things I’ve Learned from Photographing Storms
  • 5 Incredible Storm Photographers and Their Best Images

So get out there and photograph some lightning, but stay safe!

The post Video Tips: How to Photograph Lightning appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Video Tips: How to Photograph Lightning

Posted in Photography

 

How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

08 Jun

Inspiration and influence are important to every creative person. Being motivated to pick up your camera and make fabulous photographs is an essential part of your on-going development. But how to find inspiration for your photography?

It’s easy to get stuck in a rut. Always taking the same subjects, using the same lighting. Sticking with a composition style because you are comfortable with it. This will make you creatively stagnant. But how do you avoid that? Especially if you have enjoyed this method for some time.

wetlands landscape photo - How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

I don’t often take landscape photos. Now that we are living in a rural environment, landscape photography is my new challenge.

Find motivation in other photographers’ work

Stat motivated by looking at the pictures by photographers whose work you admire. I’m not talking about drawing an emotional charge from the photo of your girlfriend’s lunch she’s posted on Instagram. Find some successful photographers who have good collections of images that you love.

food photography - How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

If you like to photograph your food, push yourself to get more than snapshots.

Bookmark their website. Buy a real physical book of their work. Follow the photographer on Instagram. Research to find documentaries about the way they work and think. Find out what motivates and inspires them.

If you are not sure where to start, look at your own photos, especially ones you want to improve upon. What style are the images? What are your subjects? Are the images predominantly color or black and white? Search for photographers who like what you do and follow them.

How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography - desert image with one tree

I will continue to photograph the landscape around where I live. To find more ideas and inspiration I will be researching accomplished landscape photographers.

Check the source

To find the best, look at where their work is published. Or check out photographer’s collectives, such as Magnum. Or research which photographers have won major photography competitions, like Pulitzer or the Sony Photography Awards.

These days there are few magazines specializing in picture stories. National Geographic is always good for inspiration in general. Look up some of the historic magazines like Life, Picture Post, and Look. These magazines featured top photographers. The best fashion magazines may be a good place to look to trigger your creativity.

water buffalo - How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

The internet is also a massive source, but be careful. Anyone can publish their photos online (we all do) and call themselves an expert. Sources of photographs which are not self-published generally are more credible. I think you are more likely to find more experienced, successful photographers will have a body of work you can admire. But do look at Instagram and photo sharing sites like 500px. Seek inspiration from the best you can find in the genres you love the most.

Go to photography exhibitions

Exhibitions of photographs can also be immensely inspirational. Seeing actual photographic prints, framed and hung is such a pleasure. If you have galleries close to where you live, watch for dates they will have photography exhibitions.

When you travel, seek out the galleries showing the work of photographers.

Landscape photo of Thai mountains - How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

Books

I love photography books. I was bought up visiting libraries. Once I became interested in photography I worked my way through all the relevant books in my local libraries. Unfortunately, there were not that many. The ones which interested me most were the ones showcasing the photos of individual photographers. Books showing their photos and giving a little background on them, rather than the how-to books.

Now I have a collection of books on photography. Most of them are on individual photographers or are collections of photographs. Two of them are catalogs of Magnum exhibitions I have seen. I pick one up from time to time and am always uplifted, encouraged, and inspired to do better.

Tricycle taxi rider in a market in Chiang Mai - How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

I have been more drawn to street lifestyle photography and influenced by many magazine photo essays.

Pick your faves

Find yourself a selection of photographers whose work you admire and look at them often. Maybe they are more historic and no longer producing pictures. Keep looking back at your favorites and study why you like them so much.

More contemporary photographers will be updating pictures on their websites and Instagram feeds. My Instagram feed photos are from people who have taken a workshop with us and photographers who inspire me.

Natural light outdoor studio portrait of a Karen man - How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

I have been greatly inspired by the work of Irving Penn. Especially his use of a natural light outdoor studio.

I love the work of Irving Penn and have some of his books. You can find his images on Instagram, even though he passed away in 2009. I never get tired of looking at the way he exposed and composed his images. I’ve never been into fashion photography, but Penn did so much more than what he is most known for and it is the style of his work that has inspired me.

Documentaries on photographers can also provide insight. Seeing how they work and hearing them speak about it can be very motivational.

Photo montage of the Iron Bridge in Chiang Mai at night made in a similar style to Daivd Hocknet joiner photos.

The historic Iron Bridge in Chiang Mai. Photographed from three different positions and compiled into a photo montage.

Shortly after buying my first camera I watched a documentary about David Hockney. He was making one of his photo-montages he called “joiners”. I loved the process and results. Because of this one short video I was inspired and have been creating my own photo collages for over 30 years.

Many photographers are also teaching online. Find one who’s photography and teaching style you like. They will help keep you inspired and educate you at the same time.

Young Thai couple pose for a photo montage in Chiang Mai, Thailand. - How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

This photo montage was made for an exhibition I had at the Le Meridien Hotel in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Look at the work of other photographers who inspire you. Your style and your passion will be positively affected.

Remember, Picasso suggested, “Good artists copy. Great artists steal.” Copy what you like. Steal their ideas, and make them your own.

?

The post How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Find Inspiration for Your Photography

Posted in Photography

 

Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

07 Jun

Cleaning out my bookshelf the other day, I rediscovered a bunch of old photography books I bought from a second-hand store some time ago. Leafing through the pages and taking in that unmistakable “old book smell”, it got me thinking about the value of reading older books as opposed to shiny new publications and PDFs on a laptop.

Aged coffee table books, magazines, essays, how-to encyclopedias, and guides – there is just something about old books that capture the heart. And they continue to be relevant today, sometimes in new and surprising ways. Here are some ways old photography books and magazines are still valuable.

folded book pages - Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

Why read photography books?

With the abundance of on-screen resources available nowadays, it’s easy to dismiss hard copies of books and magazines, even brand-new publications, as a step behind the cutting edge. But books, especially older ones, offer something that the modern iPad screen lacks. They offer an experience.

The physicality of the printed text lends the feeling of a place. And the presence of a physical book discourages multitasking, focusing the mind solely on reading and absorbing information. The smell and texture of old paper, tinted with age. The turning of the page – it all contributes to a sense of knowledge, history, and sometimes nostalgia too.

It’s the same for old magazines, with each glossy print serving as a time-capsule for photographic history.

pile of photography books - Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

Trends and culture

Studies have shown that reading physical books has a positive effect on the brain. It expands memory and imagination and inspires you, the reader, to develop new concepts and ideas. But older books have the additional charm of age, they are a photograph of their time.

But it’s amazing how little the groundwork of photography has changed. Although trends come and go, the foundations of photography have remained the same. Open up an old photography guide and you’ll see practical information that looks remarkably similar to many present-day photography guides.

Everything old is new again

Just like in fashion, trends in art are often recycled and re-invented. Recently, the “soft focus look” came back into vogue, gracing the covers of magazines and fashion shoots. Street photography has had a major resurgence on Instagram and the use of old film cameras over digital technology has also garnered popularity recently.

Old photography books are full of inspiration for trends like these, with guides on how to put them into practice and an abundance of imagery to study. You may even want to re-spark a trend on your own, plus, you might discover a few out-dated tips and tricks that will put you ahead of the trend.

close up of words on a page - Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

A sweet deal

Unlike hot-off-the-press publications that haven’t filtered through to the second-hand market, old photography books are often incredibly economical. You could purchase three older books for the price of one new one. Maybe even more! Recently I bought a whole stack of beautiful, full-color photography magazines for 10 cents a pop. I couldn’t believe my luck.

Try looking for old books and magazines at book fairs, online, used bookstores, charity stores, and garage sales. You never know what you might find, a special kind of excitement reserved for photographers and book lovers alike!

an open book with photos inside - Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

Back to basics

While we all know that editing and photography often go hand-in-hand, books that predate Photoshop and digital technology can introduce you to a world of photography with an often overlooked method of execution – getting it right in-camera.

With the ability to take thousands of photos in a single day, modern photographers can get in the habit of taking numerous photographs and hoping for the best. Older photography books and magazines that rely on film or limited memory space depict a slower, more deliberate methodology which can be a refreshing way of shooting.

inside a photo book - Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

Conclusion

Photography has a long history recorded by countless publications. While brand new books and magazines may have the advantage of cutting-edge photography, older generations of print material hold a nostalgic charm and an alternative perspective to current photographic trends.

And they are cheaper too! So next time you visit a charity store or a book fair, why not pick up a few older photographic book or magazines? You’ll be surprised how useful and inspiring they really are! Share some of your book finds in the comments below.

Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

The post Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Why Old Photography Books and Magazines are Still Valuable

Posted in Photography

 

5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

07 Jun

Having a brick and mortar studio when you are a photographer is such a huge and daunting step. There are so many overhead costs to consider such as rent, electricity, insurance and various other bills. It’s a worry to cover all these before you pay staff and yourself and still make enough profit to make a living. This thought can make one feel that having a studio is an impossible dream or is too of a big a step to take. But you can always start somewhere, so let’s look at some tips for how to setup a home studio.

portrait of 2 girls - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

How to set up a home studio

If you have a spare room in your home or a basement, that is a good place to consider as a home studio. You may be surprised at just how much space is needed to start a portrait studio. Not that much at all! In this article, I will show you how I have set up my little home studio which I have recently revamped to make into a dedicated portrait studio.

I live in London in a narrow Victorian house. These houses have a typical 2-up 2-down rectangular layout, short side across and long side from front to back, with a narrow corridor that runs on one side of the house all the way to the back. My house has two reception rooms (living rooms) and a dining room and kitchen at the back. I decided to make the first reception room (the front room of the house) into my studio. It has a bay window at the front which juts out of the house and provides nice ample natural light.

At first, I set up my backdrop on the opposite side of the window so it was facing the window directly. The reason for this was so that I could get a much wider area for shooting. However, this is not great for dramatic lighting with natural light flooding from the window, with the camera right in between the backdrop and the window. This lends itself to flat lighting instead which isn’t what I wanted for my studio.

In order to achieve a more versatile directional lighting and avoid flat lighting from the window, I use strobes at 45-degree angles to the backdrop to get the lighting setup that I like.

Recently, I have moved things around so that I can use dramatic natural light if I want without the need for strobes, although I still have the flexibility to add strobes and artificial light if needed. This is how I’ve done it.

#1 Make sure your backdrop is at 90-degrees to the window

lighting diagram 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

This angle gives you a lighting that is more dramatic as it is only coming from one side. If you position your subject so that the far side of the face is unlit, you could achieve lighting similar to the Rembrandt style or low-key portraits.

#2 It is ideal to have an L-shaped corner connecting your window light to your backdrop or wall

lighting diagram corner - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

Having this little dark, unlit corner between your backdrop and the window gives you a 45-degree angle lighting setup which is one of my favorite set-ups. The corner minimizes the light for you to be able to create a moodier image with only the front left of the face illuminated rather than full light flooding from the side.

In terms of artificial light, this is similar to controlling the amount of light hitting your subject either by the use of grids, a strip light or a snoot. You don’t want your subject awash with light as that would make for a rather flat lighting.

My personal preference is for having both light and shadows in my images so I can sculpt my subjects using directional light. If you don’t have such a corner, you can use a V-flat (two black pieces of mountboard taped together to form a V) positioned in the corner as shown in the diagram above.

#3 Paint your wall dark or use a dark backdrop

portrait of a happy girl on a dark background - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

You will be astonished at the difference a dark backdrop makes! It brings focus to the subject far more than a light backdrop can. It also lends itself to more artistic photos.

#4 Diffuse your window light

portrait of a girl in black - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

Window light, albeit coming from an angle, can still be a bit harsh. You can further soften this light by diffusing it with some white sheer curtains or voile or any fabric that can diffuse the light. The bottom half of my windows are frosted which means they are already perfectly diffused. I cover the top half with pieces of diffusion fabric to cut out the light.

#5 Use a reflector or light opposite the window

lighting diagram with reflector - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

Much like in a painted portrait, reflected light is a pleasing detail found at the edge of the unlit side of the face. A silver reflector can achieve this very well with a stronger reflective light result as compared to a white reflector. I find that the gold reflectors can make the skin too warm so I stick with the silver and warm up the overall image in post-production.

The reflector does have to be positioned really close to the subject to make it more effective. If you don’t have an assistant who can hold it in place for you, get a free-standing reflector arm that you clip the reflector into thus making it easy for you to position it as needed.

two different portraits of girls - 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

dps-portrait-home-studio-tips_0000

Using strobes

If you want to use or add artificial light such as strobes or continuous lighting, consider a portable studio kit that you can fold and hide away when not in use. Here you can find suggestions of equipment to use for your portable studio kit.

There are many possibilities and things that you can do with this type of setup. Even with just one flash (like this tutorial), you can create dramatic home studio lighting. Another fun thing you can do with flash is creating double exposures.

These images below were taken in exactly the same spot as those above. But this time a gridded softbox was placed on the right as the main light instead of using the natural light coming from the window on the left.

dps-portrait-home-studio-tips_0000

I hope you found this article helpful. Please share images taken in your home studio, and if you have one or more tips on how to create portraits in a small studio space please share those too.

The post 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits

Posted in Photography

 

How to Capture and Sculpt the Color of Light

07 Jun

The Basic Mechanics of Capturing Light

When the light of a scene enters the camera lens, it is dispersed over the surface of the camera’s image sensor, a postage-size electrical circuit containing millions of individual light receptors. Each receptor measures the strength of the light striking it in a metric called “lumens.” Each receptor on this sensor records its light value as a color pixel.

Color of Light Camera Mechanics

The camera’s image processor reads the color and intensity of the light striking each photoreceptor and maps each image from those initial values, producing a reasonable facsimile of the original scene. When this bitmap of pixels is viewed from a distance, the eye perceives the composite as a digital image.

Two important light issues must be addressed when capturing a photograph: light dynamic range (exposure) and color balance (temperature).

Light (Dynamic) Range

The full range of light that exists on a sunny day is virtually impossible to capture with your digital camera. Light range is defined as the dynamic difference between direct sunlight and absolute darkness.

Even though the image sensors in today’s digital cameras continue to improve, corralling all of nature’s dynamic range of light remains a futile challenge.

Color of Light Range

This statement is easier to understand when you consider the fact that camera sensors register far less light than the human eye, and not even the eye cannot tolerate unfiltered exposure to the sun. Any more than a couple of seconds of direct sunlight will absolutely damage several different parts of the human eye.

Fortunately, your body won’t allow you to stare directly into the sun for any longer. The light emitted from the sun is the strongest, most brilliant, and purest form of light in the universe. Luckily, very few scenes you will want to capture with a camera will involve shooting directly into the sun.

Camera settings

Most cameras have an automatic program mode that adjusts the three settings in the camera that affect exposure: f-stop, shutter speed, and ISO. The A/Av (Aperture Priority) mode allows you to set the size of the lens opening (f-stop) while the camera automatically sets the shutter speed. The S/Tv (Shutter Priority) mode lets you set the duration of the shutter opening (shutter speed) while the camera automatically adjusts the size of the lens opening.

Your camera’s ISO (International Standards Organization) setting adjusts the light sensitivity of the camera’s image sensor, allowing you to capture scenes in dim or bright light.

Color of Light A S ISO

The Histogram

Your camera provides a small graph, called a histogram, that roughly indicates how well the camera is set to capture the scene. This graph displays the range of light coming through the lens and approximates the current light distribution that will be captured under the current settings. By adjusting the three settings mentioned above, you can shift and somewhat distribute this range of light so as to best record the full range of light.

My best advice about using the histogram in your camera is to adjust the big three controls (aperture, shutter speed, and ISO) to center the graph on the scale. While this won’t guarantee the most dynamic use of the tonal aspect, it will give you the latitude to adjust that tonal information in post-processing.

But remember, the histogram reads light range but doesn’t address the issue of color balance at all. Which brings us to the next point.

Color Balance

Setting your camera to capture the correct color of light is not as simple and straightforward as it might seem. It is certainly not as automatic as the Auto White Balance setting might suppose. You should understand what your camera means by AWB before you bet your pictures on it. I’ll explain this in some detail below.

Even if you are shooting in RAW mode, it’s a good idea to evaluate the light temperature of the scene and set your camera accordingly. RAW processing will allow you to change the color balance in post-production, but good estimating will certainly shorten the processing time.

Color of Light WB

Select the appropriate color (White Balance) in your camera’s settings.

Color of Light

Every scene’s color cast is influenced by the temperature of the light illuminating that scene. When the scene is captured outside, the sun’s position in the sky and the influence of cloud cover alters the colors of the light. Your camera offers two ways to compensate for the differences in color temperature (White Balance).

Auto White Balance

The Auto White Balance (AWB) sensor in your camera will seek any prominent white or neutral subject in the scene and will shift the entire color balance of the scene in an effort to neutralize the tint of that element. The assumption when using the AWB setting is that you (1) desire the current lighting condition to appear perfectly neutral in color, and (2) are certain that recognizable and visible elements in the scene are truly neutral in color.

Color of Light Presets

This series of shots were made under cloudy skies while on my lanai (porch). The preset White Balance settings used were: top left: Shade; top right: Cloudy; bottom left: AWB; and bottom right: AWB with flash fill.

Any cloud cover interfering with the sunlight will have a slight influence on the neutrality of 6500° (natural sunlight) lighting. Once again, be aware that AWB takes that slight shift in color out of the equation. Most of the time, this is a good idea. But if early morning or late afternoon (golden hour) lighting is to be recorded accurately, that AWB setting will try to neutralize those warm colors and you will, therefore, lose the mood.

Color of Light AWB

Top: the lack of an absolutely neutral color in this dominantly warm-toned outdoor scene fooled the camera’s AWB setting. So the khaki colored seat cover and the rattan chest were neutralized in the top photo. Bottom: setting the camera’s white balance to Cloudy correctly recorded the scene.

Preset Color Balance Options

Your camera offers several presets to offset any known color casts caused by specific lighting situations.

Daylight sets the camera to record scenes under typical midday outdoor lighting. For outdoor photo situations under normal weather conditions, Daylight is a safe bet. The Daylight setting’s color temperature is balanced for sunny days and photos that are taken in direct sunlight. Daylight is the most neutral of the three outdoor settings and provides rich, natural-looking colors on sunny and even partly-cloudy days.

Color of Light Daylight

The camera’s Daylight setting is ideal for bright sunny days. I love to shoot nature shots in the strong sunlight of mornings, particularly between the hours of 8 and 10 AM.

Shade shifts the colors toward orange to compensate for the bluish interference of nominal clouds. When the weather conditions are normal (sunny) but your subject is located in the shade, the scene’s color temperature actually changes slightly. If the camera’s white balance setting is Daylight, and the people are in the shade their skin tones will lack the sun’s warmth because the sun’s rays are not hitting the subject directly.

Color of Light Shade

Even though there was plenty of sun outside, the flowers were located entirely in the shade. So the white balance was set to Shade to retain the warm greens of the leaves in this shot.

Cloudy offers a yet stronger orange shift to compensate for completely overcast (stormy) skies. When the weather conditions are overcast and clouds block the direct sunlight, the bluish color of the clouds actually removes the warmth of the sun.

On the color wheel, blue is directly opposite yellow. When these two colors influence each other, they dull each color’s intensity. When the blue-gray clouds block the sun they diminish the sun’s (yellow) warmth. For this reason, the Cloudy White Balance setting introduces more color warmth into the scene.

Color of Light Cloudy

Quite obviously this picture was taken under stormy conditions. If the camera’s white balance wasn’t set to Cloudy (or Overcast), the little boy’s skin would appear a lifeless gray.

Flash provides a very similar color temperature lighting as Daylight and is intended to prepare the image sensor for artificial daylight or “Speedlight” type flash devices.

Color of Light Flash

The camera’s automatic use of the flash in the “fill” function provided just enough light to balance the sunlight coming through the side window. Careful placement of the subject allowed this simple lighting to deliver a professional look.

Tungsten shifts the colors toward the blue end of the color range to compensate for the warmer shift of incandescent lights.

Fluorescent attempts to compensate for the greenish cast of gas-charged fluorescent lights.

All of these presets attempt to correct non-neutral lighting conditions.

Color of Light Tungsten

The even warmth of tungsten lighting is best captured with your camera’s Tungsten WB setting. While Auto WB does an acceptable job of interpreting tungsten amidst other types of lighting, when table lamps are in the picture, Tungsten color balance is the right choice.

Custom White Balance

Among the other color balance settings, your camera offers a custom lighting (Custom White Balance, PRE on Nikon cameras) setting. With that option selected, you hold a neutral gray (18%) card in front of the lens and press the shutter button. The camera will read and lock in the color temperature of the light reflected from that card. That reading you take will now become the standard for the camera’s white balance until you select another setting.

Color of Light Color Checker Gray Card

When in doubt about mixed lighting conditions, the use of a gray card for establishing accurate color balance is the most accurate way to go.

Conclusion

The takeaway truth here is that you have very powerful exposure and color balance tools at your disposal. Whether you shoot with an expensive DSLR or a smartphone, take your art seriously. Invest the time to learn something new about photography every day.

Stay focused.

The post How to Capture and Sculpt the Color of Light appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Capture and Sculpt the Color of Light

Posted in Photography

 

5 Genuinely Useful Photoshop Actions

06 Jun

I use Lightroom for basic editing and raw conversions, but I still like to tweak my photos in Photoshop. Mostly, that’s just about familiarity. I’m a Photoshop addict. Technically, it makes sense to do as much editing in the raw convertor as possible—perhaps all of it—but I like the blank canvas that is Photoshop more than the frog-marched workflow of raw convertors. Besides, there are still things you can see and do in Photoshop that aren’t possible in Lightroom.

Although I might spend a fair while in Photoshop doing labor-intensive things, for the most part, I’m looking to edit photos quickly and naturally so they might be broadly acceptable for publication. I want my pictures to look good without going down the path of fancy effects, which would often narrow their salability.

Create photoshop actions

One way I can quickly tweak photos in Photoshop CC is to have a collection of Actions available. This article will show you five useful Photoshop Actions (available for download at the end of the article) curated and/or adapted by me that have nothing to do with 1970s summery film effects, light leak effects, or anything like that. Those are for another day.

Make Buttons for your Actions

Before we get down to the Actions, consider putting your Actions window into “Button Mode” once you’ve recorded or downloaded them. This makes actions more usable since it avoids you having to scroll down to find them. Nothing is faster than single clicks to get your images looking good, even if you have to back up sometimes.

You can customize the colors of your Action buttons if you want, perhaps assigning a different color to each type of edit.

Photoshop actions button mode

Observe and Adapt

One of the purposes of this article is to show you some neat tricks in Photoshop that you can incorporate into Actions. You’ll be able to see what’s happening and use the same tools to achieve different or better things. These Actions also make use of channel masks, which enable precise, flawlessly nuanced selections of color and tone for different types of edits.

Channels selections, Alpha channel, Photoshop CC

These Actions make heavy use of channels, selections, and layer masks.

Action #1 Saturation Boost

Ever since “vibrancy” was introduced, the use of saturation masks has diminished. The purpose of a saturation mask is to gradually mask the most or least saturated areas of an image, depending on whether you invert the selection or not. We can still use such a mask to create a saturation boost Action. It is made using Photoshop’s HSB/HSL filter.

HSB/HSL filter

The HSB/HSL filter has a psychedelic effect on the image.

An inverse saturation mask addresses the least saturated areas of the image more strongly, but there’s still an outside chance of clipping the RGB channels with it (i.e. overexposing or underexposing them and losing detail). In this Action, a “blend if” blending option has been added to give extra protection to shadows and highlights.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer (Cmd/Ctrl + J).
  2. Apply an HSB/HSL filter (RGB & HSB settings) to the duplicate layer – it will turn a weird color.
  3. Invert the colors of the layer (Ctrl/Cmd + I).
  4. Select the green channel under “channels”, right-click and create a duplicate channel (label it “Sat Mask”).
  5. Go back to layers and delete the duplicate layer.
  6. Back in channels, Ctrl/Cmd + click on the “Sat Mask” channel you just created (you should see marching ants on your open photo at this point).
  7. In layers, create a hue/saturation adjustment layer.
  8. Add +25 of saturation in the hue/saturation dialogue box (or any value that might be useful).
  9. Go to Layer > Layer Style > Blending Options.
  10. Under Blend If > This Layer, move the sliders inwards to 245 and 10 (or in that vicinity).
  11. Hold down the Alt key to split these sliders into two, moving the inner halves to values of 70 and 160. This feathers the selection to avoid harsh transitions in tone. Click “OK”.
  12. Delete the “Sat Mask” channel.
  13. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge all layers.

50-50 view of HSB/HSL filter and regular photo.

If the effect of the Action is too strong or weak for your liking, you can hit Ctrl/Cmd + Z to unblend the layers and alter the saturation value. Then simply blend again. This action is much the same as using the vibrancy slider only in fast button form.

Action #2 Mid-Tone Contrast +50

This relatively simple action injects contrast into the mid-tone to highlight areas of an image and leaves shadow areas untouched. Adding contrast in this way also intensifies the color. It’s akin to a curves adjustment, leaving the lower part of the curve untouched.

Photoshop contrast

Although it’s hard to appreciate in a side-by-side comparison, perhaps you can see the snappier highlights and slightly increased mid-tone saturation to the left side of this image. Shadows remain untouched.

Method

  1. Go to the channels palette and click on the RGB channel while holding down the Ctrl/Cmd key. This creates a selection on your background layer.
  2. Switch to your layers palette and hit Ctrl/Cmd + J keys, which will paste your masked selection onto a new layer.
  3. Go to blending modes (top left of the layers palette), and select Soft Light. Contrast is added to the mid-tone/highlight portions of your picture.
  4. Adjust the layer opacity to taste (set at 50% in the supplied Action).
  5. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge down the layers.

Action #3 Refined Clarity

This Photoshop Action is similar to the previous one in that it’s a type of contrast adjustment which protects the shadows. The main difference is that this one uses Clarity, which it borrows from ACR.

In terms of appearance, this Action reveals more textural detail than a straight contrast adjustment by emphasizing edges and small changes in tone. It affects the saturation less.

Clarity slider, clarity settings

The image on the left has some Clarity applied to it, but the shadows are protected to avoid the kind of crunchy look that occurs with a similar amount is applied in a raw converter (right).

(The Clarity slider gives much the same effect as “high radius, low amount” Unsharp Mask sharpening, which was a thing about 10 years ago.)

If you want to give flat images extra pop with a greater impression of depth and detail, this Photoshop Action works well. Once again, it uses a Blend If modifications to refine the result, avoiding the grunge that often makes excessive Clarity unsightly. By tapering the result from shadows to highlights, it does most of its work in the mid to high tones.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer (Ctrl/Cmd + J).
  2. Label the layer “Clarity”.
  3. Open ACR by clicking on Filter > Camera Raw Filter.
  4. Drag the Clarity slider to 100% (ignore the harsh result).
  5. Click OK and be returned to Photoshop.
  6. Open the blending options (Layer Style > Blending Options or double-click to the right of the layer name).
  7. Go to Blend If > Underlying Layer. Hold down the Alt key and drag the right-hand side of the shadow triangle on the left all the way to the far right.
  8. Click OK.
  9. Adjust the layer opacity to taste (the supplied Action is set to 60%).
  10. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge layers.

Action #4 Shadow Noise

In recent years, the Auto button in Lightroom and ACR has improved to such an extent that I sometimes click on it as an alternative starting point. The result is akin to a mild HDR effect. In particular, it tends to cut out the high contrast in images.

Photos that are intended for sale (however optimistically) don’t generally benefit from being loaded with hard-to-see, blocky detail.

In an image such as this one, I might hit Auto in the raw converter to unblock some of the shadows (as is the case in the top section of the picture: notice the railings, man’s coat, and architectural details).

Of course, the problem with bringing out shadow detail is that it invites noise. Depending on your camera and its settings, it might invite a lot of noise. If we create a Noise Reduction Action using a channel mask, we can target the darkest areas of an image. What’s more, the mask is perfectly feathered, so it will seamlessly apply more or less noise reduction according to the tones of the image.

On the right side of this image, you’ll note that the brighter areas are masked off (redder areas) and thus excluded from noise reduction.

The downside of creating a Photoshop Action for noise reduction is that normally you’d adjust the settings according to the properties of each photo. However, there’s nothing to stop you creating several noise reduction actions for different picture profiles. As well, you could integrate a noise reduction plugin that assesses each picture individually.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer and name it “Reduce Noise”.
  2. Apply noise reduction to the duplicate layer.
  3. Go to channels and Ctrl/Cmd + Click on the RGB channel, creating a selection.
  4. Hit Shift + Ctrl/Cmd + I to invert the selection.
  5. Click on “Save Selection as a Channel”.
  6. With the selection visible (marching ants) go back to layers and add a mask to your duplicate “Reduce Noise” layer.
  7. Delete the remaining extra channel (“Alpha 1” if you didn’t rename it).
  8. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge the layers.

Action #5 Web Sharpen

Sharpening is a contrast adjustment, where adjacent edges are made brighter and darker according to their tone to create the illusion of sharpness. The aim is to emphasize these edges without overdoing it and creating haloes.

One way you can control sharpening is with a luminosity mask, which automatically modifies the amount of edge contrast applied depending on how bright or dark it is. The beauty of this is that it’s subjective. Like other channel masks, it fades the effect of your edit based purely on the content of the image. The only control you have to think about is opacity, which might be greater or smaller depending on the size of the image.

channels mask, luminosity mask, Photoshop

By applying a luminosity mask, sharpening is proportionately reduced in the darker parts of the image (shown as deep red). This ensures that less attention is given to any noisy shadow areas, which we don’t want to sharpen. The Action also shields bright highlights from sharpening using a Blend If setting.

I find that this Action at 10% opacity works well on web images of between 800 and 1200 pixels wide.

Method

  1. Create a duplicate layer and name it “Sharpen”.
  2. Open channels, hold down the  Ctrl/Cmd key and click on the RGB channel, creating a selection.
  3. Click on the “Save selection as channel” icon at the bottom of the channels palette. A new channel will appear called “Alpha 1”.
  4. Deselect it by hitting Ctrl/Cmd + D or by clicking Select > Deselect.
  5. Click on your “Sharpen” layer to make it live.
  6. Go to Filter > Unsharp Mask and select a high value of 400-500, a radius of around 0.8 to 1.2, and a value of 0.
  7. Ctrl/Cmd + click on the “Alpha 1” channel in the channels palette (the selection will reappear as marching ants).
  8. Go back to the layers palette and with your “Sharpen” layer selected, click on the “Add layer mask” icon. This modifies the sharpening effect.
  9. Click on Layer> Layer Style > Blending Options.
  10. Move the right-hand slider under “This Layer” to 245.
  11. Holding down the Alt key, split the left-hand side of this slider and move it to around 220.
  12. Click OK.
  13. Adjust the layer opacity to taste (the download action is set at 10%).
  14. Delete Alpha 1 channel.
  15. Ctrl/Cmd + E to merge layers.

Photoshop Action Crashes

Occasionally, for reasons unclear to me, Photoshop Actions seem to crash and will not thereafter work without a Photoshop restart. A sure sign that this has happened, aside from inaction and error messages, is that the button in “button mode” changes color.

Download the Set

Download these actions here for free. To install: open the download directly into Photoshop or load from within Actions.

Finally

If an Action doesn’t improve the photo as you’d hoped, you can delete or add elements as you wish, perhaps with different settings or to refine the result. I hope this article inspires you to experiment with some of Photoshop’s more powerful tools. Good luck!

The post 5 Genuinely Useful Photoshop Actions appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 5 Genuinely Useful Photoshop Actions

Posted in Photography

 

Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

06 Jun

Shopping for a tripod may be one of the most complicated endeavors a photographer can take on. Lights, lenses and other accessories are pretty easy. Most things on the market in these instances are relatively similar and the differences can be negligible. With tripods, that is not the case.

There are so many options at every price point on the market that it’s hard to choose. In my case, I went through various models at the cheaper and middle-grade ends of the market with varying results. At first, the cheaper models were fine. All that I used them for was tabletop work, where if I didn’t knock it by accident, there was little chance of movement.

But as I started to get outside more for landscape photography, the downfalls of using a cheap tripod became apparent immediately. Upgrading to middle-grade models did little to solve the problem. Still fine in a studio environment, they always underperformed on location.

Finding the Right Tripod

Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

This all changed when I visited the Manfrotto stall at a trade show in the UK. At first, I thought it was going to be another case of being overwhelmed by choice with no apparent differences in the various models. That was more or less exactly what happened. That is until I spotted the Manfrotto XPRO Ball Head. Within two minutes of fiddling about with it, I knew that it was exactly what I had wanted for the past few years.

With a tripod head chosen, I just needed to find a set of legs. Going through the selection of tripod legs, none of them felt right. They were all either too heavy, too short, or the controls were too awkward. Just as I was about to give up, I spotted the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod. It was perfect. Lightweight, a maximum height just above my eye level, sturdy carbon fiber construction and easy, but firm controls added up to everything I had given up on finding.

The Legs

The Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fibre Tripod has a few relevant features.

Carbon Fiber Construction

This is pretty self-explanatory, but the carbon fiber build on this tripod is excellent. Despite being quite lightweight at 4.6 pounds (2kg), it’s still tough as nails.

I once gave up on a landscape location after 15 minutes because of gale force winds. When I got home, I realized the frames were all sharp with no signs of camera movement.

This thing is sturdy. Any of the other half dozen tripods I’ve used in the past decade or so probably would have snapped in half on that occasion. (An exaggeration of course, but it doesn’t feel like one.)

landscape scene - Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

I gave up on this location after 15 minutes because of really strong winds. When I got home, I realized the tripod held its own and there was no sign of camera shake despite the weather.

Here’s a little bonus:

All of my previous tripods have been aluminum. As it’s difficult to operate tripods with thick gloves on cold winter days, they were quick to become painful when used or carried for any amount of time. One of the first things I noticed about this tripod is that the legs never got truly cold, even in the worst weather.

At first, I thought I was making this up and it was psychosomatic, but when you have poor circulation as I do, these things are really noticeable. A bit of research showed that heat conduction with carbon fiber is vastly lower than it is with aluminum. If you have poor circulation and carrying cold metal in the winter is painful to you, even with gloves, try carbon fiber. It may give you a bit of relief that you weren’t expecting.

Controls

All of the clasps, knobs, and levels on the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod work beyond well. All of the knobs can be tightened with small movements and loosened just as easily. Gone are the days where I would have to spend ages tightening down a knob with all my strength only for it to still not be tight enough. In this case, Manfrotto’s engineers have outdone themselves. Twist and go.

The clasps that hold the legs in place are strong, but they’re designed so they are easy to use, even while wearing thick gloves. At first, it seemed like getting the clasps open was a bit tough. But once you get used to the amount of pressure you have to apply to get them to open and close, you begin to appreciate how much force is keeping the legs in position.

Just don’t close your fingers in them. That would hurt a lot.

leg clasps on the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

The clasps on the legs are strong and require a bit of effort to open and close, but they do their job really well.

Height

Without the head, the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod has a maximum height of 66.9” (170cm). This stat alone could have caused me to not give this tripod a second glance had it been any shorter. There have been too many occasions, when on location, that I couldn’t get the shot because I couldn’t get the tripod positioned over a normal size barrier like a fence or railing.

It was frustrating, which is why height was a major consideration in choosing my next tripod. The problem is, every single tripod I looked at that had a similar height and the taller ones were significantly more expensive. This tripod, however, sits at exactly the height I was after and was just inside the budget I was willing to spend.

Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head - tripod height

Fully extended, the Manfrotto 055 comes to (just about) my eye level, making it the perfect height for me.

Spirit Level

tripod spirit level - Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

The body of the Manfrotto 055 features a spirit level that moves independently from the rest of the tripod and the head. You can put it in any position around the center column. Although the XPRO ball head features two spirit levels already, this third one makes sure that you have visual access to a level at all times.

Size

Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

When folded up, the Manfrotto 055 is small and easy to carry around.

Despite being just shy of six feet when fully extended, when it’s compacted the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod folds up quite small. With the head detached, it fits neatly into the small carry-on suitcase that I fly with. On location, I can slip one of the legs through the straps on the side of my camera bag and it only sticks out a few extra inches.

Tripod Design

detail of tripod leg - Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

It may be a weird thing to say about a tripod, but this one sure is pretty.

As an aside, it’s worth mentioning the design aesthetics of both the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fibre Tripod and the XPRO Ball Head. Considering that we’re talking about a tripod, they both look really good.

The carbon fiber legs feature a pleasing pattern and the whole thing has a generous dose of metallic red that looks good to the eye. Now, aesthetic design is the last thing that you should ever consider when choosing a tripod, but as it exists here, it’s worth a mention.

Perhaps it’s a symptom of that fabled Italian design, or perhaps it just reflects the price point. Either way, don’t buy a tripod because it looks good, but this one does all the same.

The Ball Head

In short, the Manfrotto XPRO Ball Head is a dream. As mentioned, it’s exactly what I have always wanted in a tripod head.

tripod ball head - Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

If you don’t know what a ball head is, imagine an old trackball mouse (if you can). The tripod plate is mounted on the ball which in turn moves freely in its mount until you clamp it down. This allows you to move the camera freely to any position within the head’s range of movement, and clamp it into position with the twist of a knob or two.

Ball heads are ridiculously convenient and easy to use.

Dedicated landscape photographers whom may balk at the thought of jaunty angles may choose other options, such as pan and tilt heads, but I shoot landscapes for fun when I can. The versatility and ease of use of a ball head in the studio or for a portrait session make it ideal for multiple disciplined photographers.

Ball Head Controls

ball head controls - Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

Both knobs that hold the ball in place (yes, there are two) are strong and tighten with short, effortless movements.

Like the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod, the controls of the XPRO Ball Head are very well designed and easy to use. Movements of the knobs that hold the head in your desired position are slight, yet they hold fast without any slippage.

On top of that, there are two knobs to hold the ball in place, creating a layer of redundancy when it really counts. The same applies to the other mechanisms and controls. They all work perfectly and in the time I’ve been using the tripod, nothing has slipped yet.

Spirit Levels

levels on the tripod ball head - Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

The Manfrotto XPRO Ball head features two spirit levels in perpendicular orientations that make it easy to ensure that your shots are level.

Price

You may be thinking that I’m waxing a bit too lyrical about the virtues of this tripod and head. I promise, it really is that good, but there is a significant downside. All that greatness comes at a cost.

At $ 379 for the legs and $ 139.95 for the head, this is not a cheap piece of equipment. If you’re using it a lot, that price is fine, but if you’re looking for a tripod for the occasional landscape foray, this tripod is probably not for you. Likewise, if you’re only using it in a studio for static subjects, you can easily get away with a less expensive model.

Conclusion

As you can gather from the write-up, this tripod works very well when in use. It’s sturdy, with easy controls that work quickly and fluidly. It’s lightweight and does what it says on the box.

If you’re looking for a quality tripod and head combo that’s a workhorse, do consider the Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and the XPRO Ball Head combo. It does exactly the job it’s meant to with finesse. Yes, it’s an expensive bit of kit, but the price point reflects the quality.

A good tripod is a great investment, one you will not have to repeat if you choose wisely.

The post Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Review: Manfrotto 055 Carbon Fiber Tripod and XPRO Ball Head

Posted in Photography

 

Enter for a Chance to Win One of NINE Photomatix Licenses!

05 Jun

Enter the Photomatix “Spring in HDR” Photography Contest Today!

Over the last few years here at dPS, we’ve run very some very popular competitions with our partners to give away some of their great photographic products to lucky dPS readers.

We are lucky enough to be able to do it again today!

Enter to Win One of NINE Photomatix Licenses

For this competition, HDRsoft is giving away THREE Photomatix Pro Plus Bundles, THREE Photomatix Pro, AND THREE Photomatix Essentials.

HDRsoft, the maker of the popular Photomatix software and pioneer of HDR photography post-processing, bring you the “Spring in HDR” photo contest.

What is HDR, you ask? HDR stands for “high dynamic range.” In simple terms, dynamic range is basically just the difference between the lightest light and darkest tones in a scene. HDR photography lets you capture a high contrast scene as you saw it. Take three or more photos with different exposures and merge them to create one stunning HDR image.

With spring in full swing, let’s have fun and SPRING into HDR!

These prizes are designed to help every level of photographer create impressive HDR pictures. Each prize will be won by a different dPS reader.

Photomatix Pro and Essentials offer the dPS readers High Dynamic Range photography software to:

Merge bracketed photos to HDR

  • Load photographs taken at different exposures (a.k.a. bracketed photos) to merge them into a single HDR image.
  • You can leave your tripod at home. Photomatix will align your bracketed photos for you.
  • If there are moving objects or people between the bracketed shots, Photomatix will remove them via its ghost removal tools.

Adjust the HDR image to your liking

  • Choose from a wide variety of styles, with built-in presets from natural looks right through to surreal or grunge effects.
  • Try different HDR styles and fine-tune the HDR settings to find enhancements that work best for your photo.

HDR Photo by Manarola Wojciech Toman, created with Photomatix Pro.

Prizes

Three grand prize winners will win the Photomatix Pro Plus Bundle, a $ 119 value. Three second prize winners will win Photomatix Pro, a $ 99 value. Finally, three third place winners will win Photomatix Essentials 4, a $ 39 value.

HDR Photo by Manarola Wojciech Toman, created with Photomatix Pro

THREE Grand Prizes

Photomatix Pro Plus Bundle – a $ 119 Value

Bundle of two products:

  • Photomatix Pro 6
  • Tone Mapping Plugin for Photoshop

3 second place prize winners will receive Photomatix Pro 6 – $ 99 Value

Photomatix Pro is a standalone program (running on Windows and Mac) to create HDR photos with the look you want, from natural to artistic, using one-click presets and a large range of settings.

  • Merge bracketed photos to HDR.
  • Automatic alignment of hand-held photos.
  • Advanced ghost removal tools.
  • 6 HDR styles (Tone Mapping / Fusion).
  • Over 70 HDR settings and 40 built-in presets.
  • Create an HDR “Look” with a single photo.
  • Native RAW file support.
  • Brush Tool.
  • Options for real estate photography.
  • Batch processing.
  • Plugin for Lightroom included.

Three third place prize winners will receive – Photomatix Essentials 4 – $ 39 Value

Photomatix Essentials is an easy-to-use standalone program (running on Windows and Mac) to create HDR photos with the look you want, from natural to artistic, using one-click presets and streamlined settings.

  • Merge of bracketed photos to HDR.
  • Automatic alignment of hand-held photos.
  • Automatic ghost removal.
  • 4 HDR styles (Tone Mapping / Fusion).
  • 33 HDR settings and 30 built-in presets.
  • HDR “Look” with a single photo.
  • Native RAW support.
  • Plugin for Photoshop Elements included.

Learn a little more about Photomatix Pro 6 HERE

How to Win

To win this competition you’ll need to:

  1. Download a free trial of Photomatix Pro or Photomatix Essentials from HERE
  2. Load a bracketed photo set or a single photo of your favorite shots in Photomatix Pro or Photomatix Essentials, to create an HDR photo and adjust it to your liking.
  3. Post your HDR photo in our comments section below, include a few words about what you like about the software…and of course, a few words about your HDR photo. It’s as easy as that!

Do this in the next month and on or about July 20, 2018, the team at HDRsoft will choose the nine best photos and comments, and we will announce the winners in the following days.

Deadline to enter is July 6, 2018, 04:59 pm AEST (July 6, 2018, 02:59 am EDT). Photos and comments left after the deadline will not be considered.

Please click HERE for full contest rules, terms and conditions.

There’s no need to write essay length comments to win, just what you like about Photomatix and/or HDR. Don’t forget to include your HDR photo in our comments section below. We encourage you to have fun and be creative!

This competition is open to everyone, no matter where you live. To enter – simply leave your photo and comment below.

HDRsoft will be offering a 25% discount on Photomatix when we announce the winners. Make sure to get your trial now and watch out for the announcement after July 20th!

 

 

Learn more about Photomatix HERE

Disclaimer: HDRsoft is a paid partner of dPS.

The post Enter for a Chance to Win One of NINE Photomatix Licenses! appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Enter for a Chance to Win One of NINE Photomatix Licenses!

Posted in Photography