Category: Photography

  • How to Choose Your Lightroom Export Settings for Printing

    If you haven’t yet printed some of your favorite photos, trust me you are missing out on a lot. The joy and pleasure that you get by looking at the prints cannot be matched by the digital copies. This article might excite those photographers who have gotten their photos printed at least once. But if you haven’t yet, this might be the beginning, give it a try!

    The majority of you may already be using Adobe Lightroom to post-process and color correct your photos. But did you know that you might be saving your final digital copy to be sent to the printer using the wrong export settings? Do not panic, this article will help you cross-check some of the key export settings that you want to follow.

    Getting the Dimensions Correct

    Trust me, this is one of the most basic and silliest mistakes that you might make while exporting the final copy to be sent for printing. To make sure that you get the dimensions correct, simply crop the image (if needed) using the desired aspect ratio the moment you import the photo to Lightroom. This will make sure that the final prints are in the perfect dimensions and you do not have to pay the printer extra to correct the ratio.

    Note: You can use a Virtual Copy to crop for print and leave the original for online.

    crop sizes and ratios in Lightroom

    Select the Correct Color Space

    A good quality print is one which has the most accurate color representation. If you have been getting a difference in colors between what you see on your screen and what you get on your prints, something might be wrong with the color space.

    The color space of a digital image is the most important aspect of accurate color representation in a print. You need to make sure that you are selecting the AdobeRGB or any other color space as advised by your printer. AdobeRGB is a larger color space as compared to the sRGB, which is the default color space in the export setting. To know more about the color space, read: AdobeRGB vs sRGB Color Space.

    Some printers may have their own custom color profiles, which they may or may not share with you. So, in that case, they would ask you for AdobeRGB color space file and later export the file as per their custom profile. If you are unsure about the printer, simply export the photo as AdobeRGB color space.

    Note: Many labs and printers in the USA use the smaller sRGB space, so if you send AdobeRGB files for printing you will get unexpected color in your prints when they come back. Be sure and ask the lab what they use and prefer beforehand.

    Once you have selected the color space, make sure to keep the Bit Depth as 16 bits/component. This will make sure that the color transition and falloff is gradual.

    Select the Correct Image Format

    Once you are done with selecting the required color space, it is important to choose the correct image format. You can go with the JPEG format but if you are opting for high-quality or a big print, save it as a TIFF. This file format has much more information as compared to a JPEG and is vastly accepted by the printers.

    Note: Again check with your lab first. Some will not accept a TIFF file.

    Select the Correct PPI (Pixel Per Inch)

    PPI in a photo print means the number of pixels that are there per inch of the photo. The ideal and the best possible quality is 300ppi, but you can also choose 240ppi if required. Basically, the more the PPI the better print quality you would get. If you are getting bigger prints and do not want the photo to look pixelated, try saving the photo with maximum possible PPI (ideally 300ppi in the case of prints).

    Note: Once again ask your lab. Some may have a standard PPI that they use and prefer. Canvas prints, for example, are often at 150ppi. 

    Finish up

    Once you are done selecting these four major export settings, you shall be good to export the file for prints. You can always experiment with these settings as there are no hard and fast rules. These were just some tips and suggestions I wanted to share as per my experience.

    One other thing to make note of is whether or not you are enlarging the image. Be careful when upsizing files as there are good and bad ways to do that, but that is beyond the scope of this article. Read more here: Image Size and Resolution Explained for Print and Onscreen

    The post How to Choose Your Lightroom Export Settings for Printing appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Make a Composite Wine Bottle Image using Photoshop Layers

    A wine bottle is always a tricky subject to photograph. The highly reflective nature of the glass makes it hard to use frontal lighting, while backlighting will not reach the label.

    In short, the perfect light for the glass will usually not work for the label and vice-versa, often leading to the capture of various images that are later on composited in post-production, creating the final image in this manner.

    Photograph wine bottle composite

    In this article, I will show you step-by-step, how this image was photographed and composited using Photoshop.

    Image capture

    This image was photographed with a full frame DSLR, a 100mm macro lens, and two speedlights.

    wine bottle photograph seen in the camera - How to Make a Composite Wine Bottle Image using Photoshop

    One of the speedlights was fitted with a yellow filter, this provided the background light. The other speedlight was fitted on a stripbox and provided the light on the bottle in different positions for different shots.

    Light areas

    Planning ahead and deciding which areas to light are key factors for the success of the final image composite.
    In this particular image, the areas that were lit for each image were as follows:

    • The label
    • Gold logo
    • The embossed letters
    • Light side light
    • The background

    Photograph wine bottle composite 03

    None of these images look good by themselves, but each adds its own contribution for the final result.

    Raw image development

    This is the stage where the Raw images are processed and the basic adjustments are applied. I start by adjusting the “background” image which will be the base for the composite.

    Even though the yellow filter used on the speedlight created a nice warm tone on the image background, I decided to make that tone even warmer, adjusting the yellow and green hue to orange, giving it a vintage ambiance.

    Photograph wine bottle composite 04

    The compositing process

    After developing the RAW images, it’s now time to start merging all of the different images.

    I start by opening the “Background” image and giving it some basic corrections, like completing the right edge reflection with the clone stamp.

    Photograph wine bottle composite 05

    Next, I load the “Embossed Letters” image as a new layer that will stay on top of the “Background” layer and start the compositing process. For this process to work, it is imperative that all the images have the same framing and neither the camera or the object is displaced between shots.

    Layers and masking

    Even though there are many ways to create a composite in Adobe Photoshop, my favorite, and the one that allows more control, is the layer mask function.

    This masking process hides parts of the image while revealing the information that exists on the underlying layer. Just click on the layer mask icon in the layer panel, and a mask will be added to the selected layer. It might look complicated but it is, in fact, a simple process.

    White areas of the mask show what is on that layer, black areas show what is on the underlying layer (think of it as a hole you look through to see the layer below).

    Photograph wine bottle composite 06

    In this particular case, it is easier to invert the mask from white to black (Image>Adjustments>Invert) and paint in the areas you want to reveal from that layer by using a white brush.

    The exact same process was applied to the “label” and “gold Logo” layers. The “Left Side Light” layer was used to create just a fine rim light on the left edge of the bottle and give it a better separation from the background.

    Photograph wine bottle composite 07

    Refinements

    Now that it all starts to look much better, with all the bits and pieces that were used from each layer to form the composited image. So it is time to pay attention to the small details like small imperfections on the bottle, smudges or dust specs that may need to be fixed.

    Photograph wine bottle composite 08

    A higher zoom (100% or 1:1) will likely reveal problems that need to be solved.

    The icing on the cake

    Even though I could consider the image editing process finished by now, there is still a small but really important detail in my opinion – the table’s smooth wooden texture was not the right fit for the look I was trying to achieve.

    So, the right thing to do was to photograph an old beat up piece of wood that would fit the look of the overall image and replace the existing tabletop.

    Photograph wine bottle composite 09

    Now I load it as a layer on the final image and use the perspective command (Edit>Transform>Perspective) to adjust the flat wood image to match the perspective of the tabletop.

    Photograph wine bottle composite 10

    And for the final touch, I changed the blending mode of the “Wood” layer to darken, in order to make it blend smoothly with rest of the scene.

    Photograph wine bottle composite 11

    Final thoughts

    Even though I always try to get things as right as possible during the photography process, and leave as little as possible for the post-processing phase, the truth is that this compositing technique amazes me every time I try it. It is incredible the amount of detail control it offers.

    Give it a try, I am sure you will be amazed too.

    The post How to Make a Composite Wine Bottle Image using Photoshop Layers appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge: Trees – With Prizes from ViewBug

    Over the last two weeks, you’ve done images of spring in general, and then flowers last week. So for this week’s photography challenge, let’s see if you can see the forest for all the trees!

    Image by Adam Welch, dPS writer.

    Need some help? Here are some tips:

    • Tips for Better Forest Photography
    • How to Create a Dream Forest in Adobe Photoshop
    • 4 Tips for Taking Better Photographs of Trees
    • Tips for Doing Nature Photography at Your Local Parks

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Trees

    Joshua Tree National Park, California, by Anne McKinnell

    Image by Anne McKinnell, dPS writer.

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    Win Prizes from ViewBug

    We’re excited to introduce a sponsor and prizes for this week’s challenge. ViewBug is the World’s biggest photo contest community with over 70 contests always open for submissions. Win prizes, exposure, and the bragging rights. It’s FREE to join! This week, ViewBug will be awarding three winners prizes!

    One Challenge winner will receive 1 year of ViewBug PRO ($ 139 value) plus a free photography logo bundle ($ 59 value). Two Runners Up will receive a 1 year of ViewBug Premium ($ 59 value) plus a free photography logo bundle ($ 59 value).

    To Enter

    Participate in the challenge as you normally would (as described above) by posting your photo. To be considered for a prize you just need to complete the entry form below (or via this link) and submit your photo.

    The Contest is open continuously from 05:00am Australian Eastern Standard Time (“AEST”) on May 19, 2018 (03:00pm United States Eastern Daylight Time (“EDT”) on May 18, 2018), through May 26 2018, 04:59am AEST (May 25, 2018, 02:59pm EDT) (the “Contest Promotion Period”).

    Full Terms and Conditions Digital Photography School Weekly Challenge Trees – ViewBug T&C.

    Winners are announced on the Weekly Challenge Winners page on 2nd of June.

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    The post Weekly Photography Challenge: Trees – With Prizes from ViewBug appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Use Ordinary Items to Make DIY Photo Filters

    In photography, you can use filters in many ways to alter and/or enhance your images. But what if you don’t have any filters, or can’t afford the high prices to the top of the line ones? Time to rummage around the house for some things to make DIY photo filters!

    8 DIY photo filters you can make at home

    In this first video from COOPH, see how you can use some everyday things you likely have around the house to make some fun and interesting DIY photo filters.

    Keep in mind that you may not get top-quality images or award-worthy ones this way, but the point is to experiment and have some fun and see what you like. Then you can decide if you like a certain technique and will use it whether or not it’s worth investing in a more expensive filter.

    Make your own photo filters

    Next up is a video from CNET with a few more ideas for DIY photo filters.

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    Get some colored cellophane, a wine glass, some plastic wrap and a bit of Vaseline and you’re ready to give this a go.

    6 Creative photography tricks

    This last one isn’t so much about filters as it is things you can put in front of your lens (that’s kind of like a filter right?) to alter the image. Again, it’s about being creative, thinking outside the box and asking the question, “What if?”

    ?

    How creative can you get? What other easy to find items have you used to make DIY photo filters or create other image effects? Please share in the comments below.

    The post How to Use Ordinary Items to Make DIY Photo Filters appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Ways to Improve Your Images and Take Better Vacation Photos

    Have you ever been on a vacation only to return home disappointed with your images? Many people take pictures while on holiday but find they are unsatisfied with their results. You can improve your chances of capturing better vacation photos by learning the basics and applying a few simple techniques.

    better vacation photos - trees in Namibia

    1. Choose the right equipment

    Firstly, you don’t need expensive equipment to achieve photos from your travels that are satisfying. If you’re looking to buy a camera, choose one that suits your needs and budget. Digital cameras now range from professional DSLRs to great compacts that can produce quality images. Even mobile phones can give you stunning results.

    Generally, a camera with more megapixels will provide a better picture resolution and higher quality images when printed. Whichever camera you decide to use, choose a compact with a good quality lens and broad optical zoom or a digital SLR with a zoom or telephoto lens depending on the subjects and angle of view you want to capture.

    For example, a wide zoom would help to photograph a wide sweeping landscape and a telephoto can be used to capture wildlife. Also consider the size and weight of your equipment and make sure you can carry your camera kit comfortably.

    Lion's roar Ngorongoro Crater Tanzania - better vacation photos

    2. Make mistakes

    A common mistake people tend to make is to pick up a camera and shoot a scene without giving any thought to what they are actually photographing.

    You can dramatically improve your images by learning from your mistakes and analyzing why an image may not look as good as the view that you saw when you took the image.

    Appraise your work and think about how you could improve your images next time. It’s good to recognize your mistakes, such as poor camera technique and poor composition and improve on those things next time around.

    Zhangjiajie China scene - better vacation photos

    3. Improve your camera technique

    A great photograph is rarely achieved without some initial technical knowledge and photographic skills. Learn the basics about your camera and how it works. Study your camera manual and read up on other technical areas such as depth of field.

    Know the limits of your equipment and how to use it effectively to create the style of images you want to capture.

    Handling your camera in advance of your trip can help familiarize yourself with the buttons and you will be more comfortable with how it works when you’re away. Time spent understanding your camera will help take your photography to the next level and make for a more enjoyable experience when on vacation.

    town with mountains and a lake - Take Better Vacation Photos

    4. Improve your composition

    A thoughtless composition can let your image down. Too many different subjects can complicate a scene. Look for features, shapes and patterns that may work in harmony to strengthen your images. Take time to manufacture your shot, trust your instinct and aim for a composition that you like.

    The image of trees and the towering sand dunes shows an example where the different subjects of the composition can work well together and strengthen an image.

    Camel thorn trees Deadvlei Namibia - Take Better Vacation Photos

    5. Focus on details

    You can choose to photograph specific and interesting subjects to improve your holiday pictures. Focusing on details allows you to reduce the number of variables in the frame and concentrate on the different shapes and forms that can be found within your subject.

    By shooting only a portion of a famous building or scene of nature, you can isolate an image to concentrate on the aspects that appeal to you. Try zooming in or moving closer to your subject to narrow your point of interest and make it stand out.

    scenice view of a town with church steeple - Take Better Vacation Photos

    6. Consider the time of day

    The quality of light varies throughout the day and can have a huge impact on your final image. Most holiday snappers go on vacation for a break, rest in the mornings and go out and shoot during the middle of the day. However, bright sunlight at noon provides harsh shadows and flat lighting.

    Try and shoot outside this time for better vacation photos and more dramatic light. Instead of sleeping in, set the alarm clock and get out early at least once when on vacation, or stay out late to capture the beautiful tones from the sun.

    The light at this time of day can make a pleasing difference to your images. Be aware of the effects light can create and use it to capture better images. For example, look for shadows and highlights that may improve your images by providing contrasting shapes.

    The Grand Canyon USA - better vacation photos

    Conclusion

    Taking photographs during a vacation is a wonderful way to improve your photography. By applying the tips above you can achieve better images while capturing lasting memories of the places you have visited that can give you immense pleasure for years to come.

    Do you have any other vacation photography tips and photos? Please share them in the comments area below.

    The post 6 Ways to Improve Your Images and Take Better Vacation Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Ways to Get Amazing Smiles from Your Subjects

    Photographing people is a deceptively simple process these days. It seems with the wide availability of high-quality photo equipment and digital editing software that every Tom, Dick, and Harry is now a professional photographer. The reality is that true pros know technical knowledge is not the only thing that sets them apart from the amateurs. Connecting with your subject when Continue Reading

    The post Ways to Get Amazing Smiles from Your Subjects appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • 7 Travel Photography Hacks to Get You Going Places

    One of the joys of travel is capturing all the new and exciting destination sites from your own perspective. Sometimes you make conscious decisions of what to leave behind and other times you realize you forgot to bring something, only after you got there. Whatever the case, a few travel photography hacks can help you save the day!

    view from a cave of the ocean - travel photography hacks

    1. Pack Light

    Many times, the biggest challenge in travel photography is whether or not you will be able to capture the essence of the place with the gear you packed. If you are going on vacation, you certainly do not want to take every lens you own. Other than adding weight, there is a chance that much of it will not be used.

     travel photography hacks - lagoon with trees and a boat

    This is a good reason to research your destination is to help determine what images you want to capture. Are you going to shoot more landscape scenery or trying to capture the people living there? Your decision will affect what gear you take with you.

    blue sky and beach -  travel photography hacks

    Additionally, a great way to determine what to take is by reviewing your last trip. Look at what you captured then and decide if it is similar to what you hope to capture now. Many times you will find that most of your photos were taken with the same lens. You can use Lightroom’s filtering system to gather that intel.

    For example, if you took both a wide and long zoom lens, but took most shots with the wide lens, then you can safely leave your long zoom behind.

    2. Pack Smart

    When you decide which lenses you need for your trip, pack well to protect them. It helps to remember that lenses are made mostly of glass, even when built with highly durable exterior bodies. An easy packing hack to avoid damaging your lenses is putting them inside thick socks. This cushions your lens during travel, whether inside your luggage (carry-on only, never check your valuable camera gear) or camera bag.

    photo from an airplane window -  travel photography hacks

    Optional: further secure your lenses by putting them (sock-wrapped) into shoes/boots.

    3. Make a Shot List

    You do not have to be a professional photographer to make a shot list. As you research your destination, there are no doubt certain things that you want to see and experience there. As you plan your itinerary, you can make a note of what you want to capture in that location.

    b/w architecture image -  travel photography hacks

    Take a note of your different points of interest and how you plan to shoot them. Sometimes this simple action can keep you from being overwhelmed when you get there. This will also help you determine what gear to pack (mentioned above).

    4. No Neutral Density Filter, No Problem

    If you did not pack neutral density filters for your trip, there is no need to kick yourself if an opportunity for a long exposure presents itself. It does take a little familiarity and processing in Photoshop, though. Compose your image and take between 15-20 shots with that composition.

    beach shot -  travel photography hacks

    15 shots taken of the same scene in short intervals.

    You need to shoot in burst mode or ensure that the intervals between your shots are as small as possible. Download your images and load them into Photoshop as layers.

    Photoshop layers -  travel photography hacks

    15 shots loaded into Photoshop Layers.

    Select Auto-Align Layers from the Edit Menu and Auto. Click OK when done. Next, convert your layers into Smart Objects. You do this by selecting the Layer menu, Smart Object and Convert to Smart Object. This step may take a few minutes to process.

    When that is finished, go back to your Layer menu and Smart Objects. In Stack Mode, choose Mean (or Median also works well). This process also takes a few minutes to run.

    15 images stacked in Photoshop - travel photography hacks

    The result, silky smooth water as if it had been shot with a neutral density filter and really long exposure.

    Bonus Tip: This method can also help you remove people from your photos.

    5. Tripod or Not?

    A tripod is that piece of gear that you benefit tremendously from, but when traveling you may be willing to concede. Again it comes down to when and what you are shooting. If you plan on capturing nightscapes or moving subjects, a tripod is a necessity. A good compromise is a tripod that converts to a monopod.

    shot of leading lines of a theatre seating area -  travel photography hacks
    Conversely you can leave the tripod at home. Depending on where you are going, a tripod can become a nuisance to lug around or may not even be allowed. This is when you have to get creative and make a supporting object your tripod. Tables, walls, rocks or anything stationary which supports your camera will stand-in for a tripod.

    b/w statue -  travel photography hacks

    6. Batch It!

    Chances are that you will shoot a number of images in one location with the same lighting and conditions. A quick way to edit a large number of photos with your style is to batch process them. Batch processing is applying the same edit across multiple images. In addition to Photoshop and Lightroom, there is other photo editing software available that can help you achieve this.

    7. Let’s Reflect

    There is no need to walk with a bulky or expensive reflector on your trip. Buy a piece of foam board to bounce light into your shadows. This cheap trick can save you from packing more and you only need apply it to some situations.

    city at night - travel photography hacks

    Conclusion

    With travel photography, most times you want to walk around with less gear (for both your comfort and safety). Once you have done your research and know what you want to achieve, there is no need to go with equipment that you will not use. Sometimes a few travel photography hacks can save you in a pinch.

    Please share some of your favorites with us in the comments area below.

    The post 7 Travel Photography Hacks to Get You Going Places appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 8 Beginner Tips for Images with a Better Background

    Are you taking too many photos where the background is distracting from your main subject? It’s a common mistake for beginner photographers to pay attention only to their main subject and not what’s in the background. You also need to carefully look at what’s behind your subject when you are composing your photos, and a better background is part of better overall images.

    Here are 8 tips to help new photographers achieve photos with a better background.

    1. Choose Plain Backgrounds

    statue against the blue sky - better background

    By getting down low and looking up at your subject, the sky can make a great plain background.

    Look for plain backgrounds and avoid strong patterns or clutter behind your subject. A single subject against a plain background will stand out better and make a stronger image. If what’s behind your subject is visually imposing it will distract attention from your subject.

    By taking your photo from a low angle the sky will make a good plain background, especially on a cloudless day or at night. Get up higher, above your subject, and a nice lawn or large paved area can work well. A long fence or the side of a building with no windows will provide you with an effective plain background as well.

    2. Give your Subject Some Distance

    Two people throwing water during Thai new year - better background

    Having some distance between subject and background you can blur the background so it’s not distracting.

    Don’t place your subjects too close to the background. If your subject is too close to the background you will have too much in focus and your subject will not stand out. By putting some distance between your subject and what’s behind it, your subject will be sharp and what’s behind can be blurred out, (if you use a wide enough aperture setting.)

    But you don’t always need to completely blur the background. Sometimes it’s good to still be able to see what’s going on behind your subject by having it only somewhat out of focus. This can work particularly well with environmental portraits where you want the background recognizable, but not be imposing.

    3. Crop in Tight

    Chilies at the street market - better background

    Cropping tight to this pile of chilies has eliminated the distracting background.

    Move close or zoom into your subject to avoid seeing most or all of the background. This will mean attention is given totally to your subject because there is nothing else in the photo.

    Coming in super close might mean not including the whole of your subject in the photo. This is okay. Cutting off part of your subject could be better than including the whole subject and some distracting background.

    4. Create a Balance

    vegetable vendors at a street market - better background

    Using the person and objects in the background, a balance has been created in this composition.

    When you find yourself in situations where you have no control over the background or how close it is to your subject you need to get creative in other ways to make the most of what’s there.

    Looking at the objects, shapes, and lighting in the background you might find you can use part or all of these things to help balance your composition and complement your main subject.

    5. Change Your Point of View

    Market vendor selling cooked sausages - better background

    The bright background here is unattractive and adds no meaning to the photo. It is just distracting from the subject and draws the eye away from the vendor.

    Market vendor selling cooked sausages taken during a Chiang Mai Photo Workshop

    By moving my camera position, now the background is darker and adds meaning to the photo because you can now see it’s in a street market.

    Sometimes to achieve a better background you will need to move your camera position.

    If you are setting up to compose a photo and are seeing distractions in the background, try moving your camera to the left or right, or get up higher or down lower. As you do, watch what happens to the background in relation to the subject. You may see that as the relationship between objects changes you create a balance in your composition.

    You might be able to hide distracting objects behind your subject or something else in your frame just by moving a little. Coming in closer can also help.

    6. Use a Longer Lens

    Street parade girl in costume - better background

    Here, using a long lens allowed me to only see the girl’s costume and nothing else in the background.

    Using a longer lens and moving back from your subject (rather than using a wide lens and being close) will greatly affect what you see in the background.

    A lens with a wider field of view will naturally take in more of what’s in the background. Changing lenses or zooming in can eliminate much more of the background. It will also help blur your background if that’s what you want.

    7. Frame Your Subject

    Young woman - better background

    The out of focus entrance behind my subject frames her nicely.

    Find some element of a background that can enhance your photo by framing your subject.

    If you want to use a natural frame for your subject it does not need to be in front, it can be quite effective if it’s behind them as well. Be careful though, if it is too strong it may visually overpower your main subject.

    8.Use Contrast

    market porter Thailand - better background

    Using the large indoor space as a background for this market porter standing in the street has created a good dark background.

    Look for backgrounds which are brighter or darker than your subjects. With careful exposure, you will be able to isolate your subject just because of the difference in lighting. This is one of my favorite techniques to really draw attention to my subjects, especially when I am photographing people.

    Whether I am working with a studio setup or making portraits on the fly, I love to work with a dark background. Be careful to make an exposure reading from a person’s face, if the background has significantly less light falling on it then it will be underexposed and darker than your subject. If the background is a dark color this will help also as it will reflect less light than your subject. This is more difficult to achieve with people who have dark complexions.

    Karin hill tribe woman taken during a Chiang Mai Photo Workshop

    Using my outdoor studio I am able to easily have a plain, dark background.

    Conclusion

    Next time you are out and about with your camera, remember to pay attention to what’s happening behind your subject as well. The background can make or break a picture. It can support a subject or be a total distraction. Practice using these tips to create better backgrounds and I am sure you will begin to see an improvement in your photos.

    The post 8 Beginner Tips for Images with a Better Background appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    A common question among those starting out in macro photography is, “What lens should I choose?” Given the number of options, this is difficult to answer and depends on a number of factors (physical requirements, budget, subject, style, etc.). There is no one ideal macro lens. However, this article will provide a guide to choosing the ideal macro lens for your needs, focusing on three main considerations: focal length, image quality, and price.

    macro photography abstract hibiscus - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    A Note About Image Quality

    When it comes to choosing lenses, photographers often focus on image quality, especially sharpness.

    I am happy to tell you that, for macro photography, this is generally less of an issue. Why? Macro lenses are incredibly sharp. Even lenses on the lower end of the price spectrum offer professional-level sharpness, especially when stopped down slightly. I have used a half-dozen macro lenses over the course of my photography career, and I have never been dissatisfied with the level of sharpness.

    However, this does not mean that low-end macro lenses are indistinguishable from the pricier options. Expensive macro lenses do often provide better sharpness and bokeh.

    macro photography flower abstract - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    Furthermore, cheaper macro lenses do sometimes have problems with chromatic aberration (generally purple and yellow fringing that occurs in the high contrast parts of images). This can be corrected with post-processing, but I prefer to avoid chromatic aberration whenever I can. When I discuss different lenses below, I note any chromatic aberration problems that I’ve experienced.

    Focal Length

    I will center this discussion around focal length; this is an easy way of narrowing down potential macro lenses because focal length often determines and limits your macro photography options.

    Macro lenses can be classified into three focal-length categories: short (35-60mm), mid-range (90-105mm), and long (150-200mm).

    The Short Macro Lens

    • Pros: Lightweight and inexpensive.
    • Cons: Less impressive bokeh, short working distance (bad for insects).
    dahlia abstract macro photography flower - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    I took this dahlia image using a short macro lens, the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

    Short macro lenses tend to be used for more casual macro outings, or as “all-purpose lenses” that you switch to macro when needed. They’re easy to store, easy to carry, and pretty inexpensive. They’re also easier to hand-hold because of their small size.

    However, a big drawback with short macro lenses is the short working distance. Working distance refers to the distance from the end of the lens to the subject. In order to do high magnification photography with, say, a 60mm macro lens, the subject has to be extremely close to the lens. This can cause problems. First of all, insects generally require a bit of distance when photographed, so getting close often isn’t an option.

    macro photography tulip abstract flower - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    This tulip photograph was taken with a Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

    Additionally, your head (or your camera) might cast an unwanted shadow onto the subject, depending on the lighting conditions. Shorter lenses also tend to have less pleasing bokeh.

    However, if you are looking to do casual macro photography with more portable equipment and strong image quality, then a shorter macro lens might be just the thing for you.

    If you’re a Canon shooter on a budget, you should look at the Canon 60mm f/2.8 (at $ 399)or the Canon 35mm f/2.8 IS (at $ 349). The latter offers image stabilization, which can often be quite useful for handheld macro photography. For Nikon photographers, look at the Nikon 40mm f/2.8G (only $ 225).

    How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens - tulip macro photo

    Another tulip photograph that was taken with the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

    If you’re a photographer with a bit more to spend, you should consider the Nikon 60mm f/2.8G (at $ 596) or the Tamron 60mm f/2.0 for Nikon ($ 524) and for Canon ($ 524).

    Finally, you might consider the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D (at $ 517). This lens is near and dear to my heart because it was the first macro lens I ever purchased. I was always quite impressed by its sharpness. It is worth noting that the autofocus is quite slow, but I always use manual focus when shooting macro (and you probably should, too!), so this was not a problem.

    60mm nikon macro photography tulip flower - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    A final photograph with the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

    Mid-Range Macro Lenses

    • Pros: Larger working distance, somewhat inexpensive, very good bokeh, lightweight.
    • Cons: Working distance still fairly short.
    macro photography abstract purple flower - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    A flower image that was taken at 105mm.

    Mid-range macro lenses are my personal favorite among the macro options. They are a great option for flower photography, especially more abstract level flower photography like I tend to do. Why?

    First of all, these lenses are relatively lightweight, which means that I can hand-hold them without much trouble at all, even in low light. This allows for much greater flexibility.

    Second, a mid-range macro lens offers a perfect working distance for flower photography. I like to get very close to the flowers that I am photographing. Not so close that I am nearly touching the flower, but not so far that other flowers, leaves, and branches get in the way.

    macro photography Canon 100mm f/2.8L rose abstract - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    A rose image which was taken with the Canon 100mm f/2.8L.

    Third, these lenses offer high-quality optics for what is often a very low price. For example, the Tamron 90mm f/2.8, (which is generally the least expensive of these mid-range macro lenses at $ 649), affords images with outstanding sharpness and bokeh.

    If you desire to do insect photography, or if you often photograph with a tripod and want the increased image quality of a 150-200mm, I would recommend looking at a longer macro lens. However, if you are interested in doing handheld flower photography or if you’re on a budget but want a more dedicated macro lens, I recommend one of those mid-range lenses mentioned above.

    First among the less expensive options is the aforementioned Tamron 90mm f/2.8 for Nikon and for Canon. At one point in time, this was my workhorse lens. While I had occasional issues with chromatic aberration, the sharpness, bokeh quality, and price more than made up for it. Another option around this price-point is the Tokina 100mm f/2.8 for Nikon and for Canon.

    daisy abstract macro photography bokeh - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    This daisy image was taken with the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 (non-VC) lens. I love the bokeh this lens produces.

    Looking toward medium-level prices: the Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM gets great reviews, as does the upgrade of the previously mentioned Tamron 90mm f/2.8, which has been modified to offer vibration compensation technology. Sigma also offers the 105mm f/2.8 macro with optical stabilization.

    macro photography abstract Canon 100mm f/2.8L - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    I took this image with my favorite lens: the Canon 100mm f/2.8L.

    Finally, on the pricier side, we have the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G VR ($ 896) and the Canon 100mm f/2.8L IS ($ 749), both of which offer vibration reduction/image stabilization.

    I must say, if I had to pick one lens to use foreverout of all the lenses that I’ve owned or even held in my handsit would be the Canon 100mm f/2.8L. It’s pin sharp, the image stabilization allows for shooting handheld in low light, and the bokeh is a dream come true.

    Long macro lenses

    • Pros: Best working distance, generally excellent bokeh and image quality.
    • Cons: Heavy, often very expensive.
    macro photography abstract dandelion Sigma 150mm - How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens

    I took this high magnification image with the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 (non-OS).

    Longer macro lenses tend to have astonishingly good image qualityfor a (generally hefty) price. The bokeh and sharpness on the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 (for $ 1099), for instance, is excellent.

    macro photography aster abstract bokeh Sigma 150mm macro - macro lens

    I’m very impressed with the bokeh offered by the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 macro lens.

    These lenses also offer the best working distance of the bunch, which is often essential for insect photography.

    Another advantage of the longer working distance is the ability to use a creative macro technique: shooting through out of focus flowers.

    sunflower abstract macro photography Sigma 150mm macro lens

    A third image was taken with the Sigma 150mm macro. I shot through several other flowers to give this image a colorful wash.

    Yet these lenses are quite heavy, which makes hand-holding for long periods difficult, and doing so in low light nearly impossible. You’ll want to consider these lenses if you wish to do high-level insect photography, or if you desire top-notch image quality and don’t mind the weight or price.

    The long macro lenses include the less expensive Sigma 150mm (non-OS), which is a bit harder to find, but offers excellent image quality and is built like a tank. It’s my backup macro lens (after the Canon 100mm f/2.8L), and I turn to it when I want a bit more working distance.

    Next, we have the Tamron 180mm f/3.5 and the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS.

    And then, offering stunning image quality with a high price tag, are the Nikon 200mm f/4 ($ 1792), and the Canon 180mm f/3.5L ($ 1399). While I have not used either of these lenses, I have read rave reviews of their optics, especially the Canon 180mm f/3.5L.

    macro photography abstract coneflower Sigma 150mm macro lens

    This is another image taken with the Sigma 150mm macro. I shot through another coneflower to give this image a purple wash.

    Conclusion

    While most macro lenses allow for high-quality images, different ones will meet certain needs better than others.

    To summarize:

    • If you are looking for a more general purpose lens for casual macro shooting, choose one of the short-range lenses.
    • But if you are looking for a more serious macro photography lens and prefer to shoot handheld with greater flexibility, go with one of the mid-range lenses.
    • Finally, if you want to shoot insects or want perfect image quality, choose a long macro lens.

    Still uncertain about which lens to purchase? Ask your questions in the comments section below, and I will do my best to help!

    macro photography abstract flower - macro lens

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  • More Lessons from the Masters of Photography: Edward Weston

    In any art form, we have those who seem to transcend the medium itself. Those who by their very accomplishments earn the respect and admiration of those who view their work. We call these esteemed individuals “Masters”. In photography, there great names that we hold high because their photographs move us on some emotional, nearly spiritual plain. We see these people as masters of photography not simply because of their level of technical skill but how their application of those skills makes us feel. At the same time, we strive to reach that same level of proficiency.

    In this installment of Lessons from the Masters of Photography, we are going to examine the work of Edward Weston. We will look at the photographs and also the man to see what valuable lessons they can teach us about photography.

    Edward Weston

    Edward Weston - masters of photography

    Edward Weston by Fred Archer- 1915

    Weston was born in Highland Park, IL on March 24th, 1886. He began photography at the relatively young age of 16 when he was given a No. 2 Bulls-Eye camera by his father. The camera used 3 ½ inch roll film and Weston used the incredible little box to make photographs around Chicago where he spent a large portion of his childhood.

    After moving to California in 1906, he worked as a surveyor and began working in photography essentially as a “door-to-door” photographer. A couple of years later, Weston would return to Illinois to attend the Illinois College of Photography where he became proficient in darkroom and camera techniques. Finally, in 1911, he opened his first studio in Tropico, California. The rest, as they say, is history.

    Edward West went on to become one of the most dominating forces in the world of photography and is now considered by many to be one of the first great American photo makers. His work ranges from landscapes to fine art nudes and still life. In this article, we’re going to look at a few of the many lessons you can learn from the great Ed Weston, one of the Masters of Photography.

    There are no Rules

    How many times have you stopped yourself from placing a horizon dead center in a composition because it isn’t generally considered correct? Have you worn out the Rule of Thirds?

    Do you always want to retain detail in the shadows each and every time? If you ever don’t make a photo in a certain way because it isn’t the “correct way”, then you are limiting yourself and your work…and Ed Weston would likely agree with me.

    More Lessons from the Masters of Photography: Edward Weston - man looking up on a forest of tall trees

    Weston believed there were no set “rules” to composition, He saw photography as a progression in self expression and would photograph the scene or subject based on what he felt, not necessarily based on any set rules.

    When you photograph, always remember that while there a few technical constraints the majority of the creative side of your photograph is completely up to you. Be like Edward Weston and don’t hold back just because what you want to do is unique.

    Beauty is Everywhere

    If you look at some of Weston’s most celebrated works, you’ll see that they consist of everyday items that you might have in your home right this second; lettuce, sea shells, even a toilet. In fact, what is considered to be one of his most famous photographs is nothing more than a bell pepper.

    More Lessons from the Masters of Photography: Edward Weston - pepper #30

    Pepper #30 by Edward Weston, 1930/Image courtesy Sotheby’s

    Weston made the everyday commonality of objects disappear. One of my favorite quotes by him is as follows:

    “This then: to photograph a rock, have it look like a rock, but be more than a rock. Significant presentation – not interpretation.”

    What’s Weston telling us here? Is he just being overly dramatic as some of us photographers tend to be (as my hand slowly raises)? Or is he saying that we should see the things around us not only as what they are but also what they could be?

    sand dunes - More Lessons from the Masters of Photography: Edward Weston

    Dunes, Oceano By Edward Weston, 1936

    Beauty and therefore photographic material surrounds us all. Don’t overlook something because it appears simple. Instead, attempt to see its beauty photographically and learn to use your camera to show that quality in your work.

    Use Simple Techniques in a Grand Way

    Something I found surprising as I learned more about Weston is that most of (if not all) of his photographs were contact prints. This means that the negative is placed directly on top of or in very close contact with the printing paper. A contact print is the same size as the negative it is birthed from and in the case of Weston that was usually 8×10 inches.

    silhouette of a camera on a tripod - More Lessons from the Masters of Photography: Edward Weston

    Can you imagine that? All these great photographs were printed with extremely simple methods using nothing more than a negative, a piece of paper sandwiched in a wooden box, and light. The magic happened when Weston would add in the most important thing of all; his immense skill.

    You see, Weston might have used simple tools, but the way in which he used them made all the difference. In your photography, never forget that amazing things can come very very simple means. The important thing is learning how to use the tools you do have expertly. Don’t believe me? That Pepper #30 from earlier…it was shot in a tin funnel on Weston’s kitchen table.

    Some Final Thoughts on Edward Weston

    I realize as I close out this article that it is March 24th, Edward Weston’s birthday. Oddly fitting as I think back on the legacy and lessons he left us to help better ourselves as photographers.

    Weston was a master of making the simple profound. He used simple techniques and wasn’t afraid to bend the accepted “rules” in order to get the photography he saw fit. As you continue on your photographic journey I urge you to learn more about Edward Weston and his wonderful work as you discover more ways to become a better photo maker.

    Read other dPS articles on the masters of photography here:

    • More Lessons from the Photography Masters: David Burnett and Vivian Maier
    • Lessons from the Masters: Robert Capa and Jerry Uelsmann
    • Cartier-Bresson and Stieglitz – Study the Masters of Photography to Become a Better Photographer
    • Masters of Photography: Bruce Davidson, Master of the Subway
    • Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
    • Masters of Photography – Ansel Adams
    • Photography Lessons I Learned Growing Up Around Ansel Adams

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