RSS
 

Archive for the ‘Photography’ Category

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera

24 Jul

The Sony a7 III is arguably the hottest and most popular full-frame DSLR on the market right now. It packs much of the power of Sony’s other full-frame powerhouses, the a9 and a7R III, into a camera that’s significantly more affordable.

If you’ve added the Sony a7III (or the a7R III) to your camera kit recently, here are 10 accessories you might want to buy as well to help you capture better photos and/or videos.

Side note: This article excludes specific lenses, flashes, and camera bags as recommended accessories since they’re hot topics in their own rights, but make sure you get some of those as well.

Sony accessories 01

1. Screen Protector

Both the Sony a7R III and a7 III are certainly very solidly built. You probably won’t need to buy additional protective accessories to shoot in most conditions (unless, of course, you plan on shooting in extreme conditions).

However, it’s a good idea to invest in a screen protector for the rear LCD screen. They’re cheap, relatively easy to apply, and they let you use Sony’s limited touchscreen functions. Just make sure to buy a screen protector that fits your camera model.

2. SD cards

Make sure you invest in at least a couple of SD memory cards to store your images in-camera. If you have multiple memory cards, a memory card wallet or holder is also great to keep them organized.

Size-wise, bigger is better given the larger file sizes of these cameras, so consider getting 32GB or 64GB cards. If you plan to shoot 4K video or take advantage of your camera’s blazing fast frames per second shooting, make sure you choose memory cards with a high write speed, such as this SanDisk 64GB USH-II SD card.

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera - SD cards

3. Camera strap

Both the Sony a7 III and a7R III come with dedicated Sony camera straps. They get the job done but can be difficult to remove in a situation where you don’t want a camera strap in your way (ie. shooting on a tripod). Thus, many photographers opt to purchase third-party camera straps.

The Peak Design Slide camera strap is especially popular right now since they have the ability to easily connect and disconnect from your camera as needed. Also worth checking out are Black Rapid camera straps, especially if you have two camera bodies and need a Double Camera Harness.

Photographers looking for a more fashionable alternative may also be drawn to the HoldFast Money Maker camera strap, which is handmade from genuine or vegan leather.

4. Lens filters

Both the Sony a7 III and a7R III require detachable camera lenses that you have to buy separately. This article won’t discuss specific lenses, but no matter which ones you end up with, you should definitely have a UV filter for each of your lenses.

Not only do UV filters minimize atmospheric haze, but they also protect the surface of the lens from scratches, dust, and most other external damage.

Other handy photography filters include a polarizer and neutral density filter. These are especially applicable if you plan to shoot outdoors.

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera

5. External hard drive

Today’s cameras are packed with more megapixels and high-resolution video recording capabilities than ever before. While this can be a great thing for creatives, it can be a bane on your digital media storage. This is especially true if you have the Sony a7R III, which is capable of producing massive 42-megapixel images.

To avoid filling up your computer, you’ll want at least one external hard drive, or ideally three total to make backups of your images after shooting. When selecting an external hard drive, consider getting a “tough” or version such as the LaCie Rugged Portable Hard Drive that will give you some extra protection, since hard drives can be notoriously easy to damage.

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera - computer and hard drives

6. Spare batteries and a battery charger

It’s somewhat arguable if these two accessories are needed. In case you haven’t heard, Sony drastically improved the battery life in the new Z-batteries that ship with the Sony a9, a7R III, and a7 III.

In my experience with the A7rIII, these new batteries last as long as the ones that power the Canon 5D Mark III. I find that I rarely bust through a whole battery in a full day of shooting still photography. However, it’s always wise to carry a spare battery or two, just in case.

As for the battery charger, you will probably need to buy one if you have the a7 III since that camera is reportedly not shipping with a battery charger in the box. Or, you can simply juice up your camera using the next recommended accessory.

7. External battery charger

One of the most refreshing parts about switching from a DSLR to a Sony mirrorless camera is the fact that you can charge your camera without removing the battery. Simply plug your camera into a wall outlet or external battery via the USB-C port to start charging.

Best of all, you can operate your camera while it’s being charged! As far as external battery packs go, Anker makes stellar options such as this one that is slim and capable of charging not only your camera but also your cell phone.

8. Tripod

Most photography articles include a tripod as a definite “must-have” in your camera kit, but I think this is a very arguable accessory, especially as camera technology improves. If you plan to shoot architecture, real estate, products, or in low-light scenarios, you definitely need a sturdy tripod such as this beastly Manfrotto tripod that is huge, but rock solid.

However, if you’re more of a run and gun shooter or looking for a more minimalist camera setup, you can get away with something like the Manfrotto BeFree travel tripod series, or even a GorillaPod.

In particular, I’ve found the GorillaPod to be ultra convenient. It’s compact and flexible enough to throw into your bag and have it as an option to quickly stabilize your camera as needed (if at all). If you do get a GorillaPod, be sure to get the 3K or 5K option, as any smaller models are often not strong enough to support Sony a7 cameras, or DSLRs in general.

Sony accessories - photographer with pack and tripod in the mountains

9. Timelapse trigger

If you’ve owned a previous model of Sony camera such as the a7R II or an a6000, you probably used the built-in Sony apps. These unlock a host of extra features such as built-in time-lapse.

Unfortunately, Sony removed those apps from both the a7R III and a7 III cameras. That means you can’t easily do built-in time-lapses anymore. Fortunately, there are other options such as the MIOPS Smart Trigger.

In Conclusion

There you have it, nine recommended accessories (besides lenses, flashes, and bags) that you should get for your Sony a7 III or a7R III camera. Would you add any accessories to this list? Please let us know in the comments below.

The post 9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera

Posted in Photography

 

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera

24 Jul

The Sony a7 III is arguably the hottest and most popular full-frame DSLR on the market right now. It packs much of the power of Sony’s other full-frame powerhouses, the a9 and a7R III, into a camera that’s significantly more affordable.

If you’ve added the Sony a7III (or the a7R III) to your camera kit recently, here are 10 accessories you might want to buy as well to help you capture better photos and/or videos.

Side note: This article excludes specific lenses, flashes, and camera bags as recommended accessories since they’re hot topics in their own rights, but make sure you get some of those as well.

Sony accessories 01

1. Screen Protector

Both the Sony a7R III and a7 III are certainly very solidly built. You probably won’t need to buy additional protective accessories to shoot in most conditions (unless, of course, you plan on shooting in extreme conditions).

However, it’s a good idea to invest in a screen protector for the rear LCD screen. They’re cheap, relatively easy to apply, and they let you use Sony’s limited touchscreen functions. Just make sure to buy a screen protector that fits your camera model.

2. SD cards

Make sure you invest in at least a couple of SD memory cards to store your images in-camera. If you have multiple memory cards, a memory card wallet or holder is also great to keep them organized.

Size-wise, bigger is better given the larger file sizes of these cameras, so consider getting 32GB or 64GB cards. If you plan to shoot 4K video or take advantage of your camera’s blazing fast frames per second shooting, make sure you choose memory cards with a high write speed, such as this SanDisk 64GB USH-II SD card.

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera - SD cards

3. Camera strap

Both the Sony a7 III and a7R III come with dedicated Sony camera straps. They get the job done but can be difficult to remove in a situation where you don’t want a camera strap in your way (ie. shooting on a tripod). Thus, many photographers opt to purchase third-party camera straps.

The Peak Design Slide camera strap is especially popular right now since they have the ability to easily connect and disconnect from your camera as needed. Also worth checking out are Black Rapid camera straps, especially if you have two camera bodies and need a Double Camera Harness.

Photographers looking for a more fashionable alternative may also be drawn to the HoldFast Money Maker camera strap, which is handmade from genuine or vegan leather.

4. Lens filters

Both the Sony a7 III and a7R III require detachable camera lenses that you have to buy separately. This article won’t discuss specific lenses, but no matter which ones you end up with, you should definitely have a UV filter for each of your lenses.

Not only do UV filters minimize atmospheric haze, but they also protect the surface of the lens from scratches, dust, and most other external damage.

Other handy photography filters include a polarizer and neutral density filter. These are especially applicable if you plan to shoot outdoors.

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera

5. External hard drive

Today’s cameras are packed with more megapixels and high-resolution video recording capabilities than ever before. While this can be a great thing for creatives, it can be a bane on your digital media storage. This is especially true if you have the Sony a7R III, which is capable of producing massive 42-megapixel images.

To avoid filling up your computer, you’ll want at least one external hard drive, or ideally three total to make backups of your images after shooting. When selecting an external hard drive, consider getting a “tough” or version such as the LaCie Rugged Portable Hard Drive that will give you some extra protection, since hard drives can be notoriously easy to damage.

9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera - computer and hard drives

6. Spare batteries and a battery charger

It’s somewhat arguable if these two accessories are needed. In case you haven’t heard, Sony drastically improved the battery life in the new Z-batteries that ship with the Sony a9, a7R III, and a7 III.

In my experience with the A7rIII, these new batteries last as long as the ones that power the Canon 5D Mark III. I find that I rarely bust through a whole battery in a full day of shooting still photography. However, it’s always wise to carry a spare battery or two, just in case.

As for the battery charger, you will probably need to buy one if you have the a7 III since that camera is reportedly not shipping with a battery charger in the box. Or, you can simply juice up your camera using the next recommended accessory.

7. External battery charger

One of the most refreshing parts about switching from a DSLR to a Sony mirrorless camera is the fact that you can charge your camera without removing the battery. Simply plug your camera into a wall outlet or external battery via the USB-C port to start charging.

Best of all, you can operate your camera while it’s being charged! As far as external battery packs go, Anker makes stellar options such as this one that is slim and capable of charging not only your camera but also your cell phone.

8. Tripod

Most photography articles include a tripod as a definite “must-have” in your camera kit, but I think this is a very arguable accessory, especially as camera technology improves. If you plan to shoot architecture, real estate, products, or in low-light scenarios, you definitely need a sturdy tripod such as this beastly Manfrotto tripod that is huge, but rock solid.

However, if you’re more of a run and gun shooter or looking for a more minimalist camera setup, you can get away with something like the Manfrotto BeFree travel tripod series, or even a GorillaPod.

In particular, I’ve found the GorillaPod to be ultra convenient. It’s compact and flexible enough to throw into your bag and have it as an option to quickly stabilize your camera as needed (if at all). If you do get a GorillaPod, be sure to get the 3K or 5K option, as any smaller models are often not strong enough to support Sony a7 cameras, or DSLRs in general.

Sony accessories - photographer with pack and tripod in the mountains

9. Timelapse trigger

If you’ve owned a previous model of Sony camera such as the a7R II or an a6000, you probably used the built-in Sony apps. These unlock a host of extra features such as built-in time-lapse.

Unfortunately, Sony removed those apps from both the a7R III and a7 III cameras. That means you can’t easily do built-in time-lapses anymore. Fortunately, there are other options such as the MIOPS Smart Trigger.

In Conclusion

There you have it, nine recommended accessories (besides lenses, flashes, and bags) that you should get for your Sony a7 III or a7R III camera. Would you add any accessories to this list? Please let us know in the comments below.

The post 9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 9 Recommended Accessories for Your New Sony a7R III or a7 III Camera

Posted in Photography

 

How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

24 Jul

When you look at a white wall, how does it make you feel? Dingy? Cold? Warm and radiant? Modern? Sophisticated? Clean?

White and light gray, sometimes referred to as “neutral tones”, are some of the most powerful colors in the spectrum. We can distinguish many shades of white, and bounced light from a neutral source influences the tint of every other color nearby.

Neutral tones set the mood of an image more than any other colors. You’ve probably transferred a photo to your computer where the white balance was noticeably off: a night shot where everything was too green and cool, or an indoor photo that was orange. White balance is an easy fix in most photo editing software, but neutrals don’t end there: by tweaking them creatively, you can take your photos to the next level.

Sella towers - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

What are the sources for neutral tones?

It’s possible to have a photo without white and grays, but most of the time scenes are full of them. These are some of the more common sources in landscape photography.

Clouds

Those water-saturated cotton balls do a great job of reflecting light. On a sunny day they tend to be slightly warm, while storm clouds are a fantastic source for chilly gray tones. However, clouds are not a good source for neutrals when shooting after golden hour or before sunrise.

Overblown sky

When shooting after sunrise and before sunset, the sky will typically be overexposed if you properly expose the rest of the image. It’s not usually desirable, but in a few instances an overblown sky is a good source of white.

Sass de putia - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Water

Lakes and shorelines are my favorite method to introduce strong neutral tones to landscape photos. You can use bodies of water to reflect an overcast sky, and along the coast, you can shoot a long exposure to blur the white foam from the waves.

Both tend to create pure neutrals, so you can completely change the mood of an image with tiny adjustments.

Man o war - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Fog

The most powerful way to introduce mystery and dreariness, fog is often the largest source of gray tones in your image.

Hohenwerfen castle - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Snow

Winter photography enjoys the most magical source for neutral tones. Tinting snow just a bit cooler or warmer profoundly impacts the scene’s mood.

Mount hood - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Moon and stars

When shooting astrophotography, the stars tend to cast a cold white light, and the moon a warmer light.

Gimmelwald - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Haystack rock - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Architecture

Man-made structures that ought to be white or gray such as; lighthouses, white-washed brick houses, winding gravel roads, and expansive castles — are often the subject of an image. Consequently, they make a compelling neutral source.

South stack lighthouse - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Why are neutral tones important?

Out of the camera, even after editing, your neutral tones may not really be neutral. They may be heavily tinted. Introducing off-white into your neutral sources is an important technique for crafting compelling edits.

Keep in mind that the viewer will expect those subjects to look neutral, so if you push the white balance too far or don’t balance the warms and cools, it will begin to look over-edited. A tiny change in neutrals has 10 times the power of changing your colors and blacks.

So, in general, start with subtle adjustments and revisit the photo often under different lighting conditions. Some of the most common ways to pollute neutral tones are:

  • Pushing saturation or vibrance.
  • Over-saturating an image shot at a high ISO.
  • Shifting the white balance too far from pure white to bring out colors in the sky or a dark foreground.

With those caveats in mind, here are four ways your neutral tones can support the rest of the image.

Strumble head lighthouse - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

1. Neutral tones root an image’s color palette

With strong neutrals, viewers can believe almost any edits in an image: sunsets that pop, overly blue skies, or glassy teal water. But the moment you introduce color into an element that should obviously be white or light gray, the image’s believability disintegrates.

This is why split toning is rarely a magic pill for making a great photo. Toning the highlights and mid-tones often ends up tinting your neutral sources.

The foam in this shot of Spirit Falls (below) is pure white, but the rest of the image has been significantly warmed and tinted green to bring out the beautiful colors. The contrast between the pure white foam and warm greens creates the impression that the water is refreshingly chilly.

Spirit falls - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

2. Neutral tones help you resurrect the colors you remember

After shooting a stunning sunset, it can be disappointing to open the RAW image in your editing software and find that the colors are missing. In most cases, the detail and colors are there, but it’s up to you to revitalize them. Neutral tones will help.

Start by identifying elements in the photo that ought to be white or gray, then adjust white balance and tint accordingly. This will give you a great starting point.

It may still be underwhelming, but now that your neutrals are about right, start selectively bumping the saturation, temperature, and tint on the colorful subjects in your composition. You might add a graduated filter to the sky portion of the image and warm or cool it to help them pop.

Roads end - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Sunsets create a powerful contrast between the warm sky and cool shadows. The image of Road’s End above is primarily cool since the most of the image is in shadow.

However, the sea foam reflects both the warms and cools, so in post-production, I played with the global white balance until both tones came out. Afterward, I introduced a strong magenta cast to bring out the pinks in the sky and foreground.

3. Neutral tones set the overall mood

In reality, neutral tones are rarely neutral. By slightly tinting neutrals, you can communicate aspects of the scene. Here are some examples.

Time of day

Night photography is typically cooled, while sunset or midday photos are warmed. This shot of Mount Bachelor was taken after during civil twilight, so the only source of warm light was the grass in the foreground and hints of alpenglow on the snow. Everything else was left cool.

Mount bachelor - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Temperature

An overly warm image can communicate a hot day, and on chilly days, the overall white balance can be left cool. This is especially powerful if your image has a small, warm light source to draw the viewer’s eye.

Morning fog over this lake in Snowdonia introduced a neutral source and warming the color raises the perceived temperature.

Snowdonia - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Weather

Clear days can be tinted slightly pink to warm the scene, while an incoming storm should incorporate a greener tint.

Oregon is rich with various biomes, and Smith Rock State Park feels like a desert on a clear day. The strong magenta cast brings out colors in the rocks and reinforces the cloudless sky.

Smith rock - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Clarity

When the fog rolls in, it tends to chill the image and evoke mystery. A hazy day adds depth and layers to an image and tends to warm the image at golden hour.

In this shot from Bavaria, the haze on the mountain range adds warmth and communicates just how distant the mountains are.

Geroldsee - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

4. Neutral tones help to bring out or tone down a region

Neutrals don’t have to be the same color or white balance! They can help root the mood and color palette of a local section of the image.

For example, snow beneath some trees in the foreground should be cool, and snow on a mountain under sunrise should be warm.

The different white balances communicate the temperature contrast between the foreground and background. Furthermore, since cool colors recede while warm colors pop forward, the warm snow in the background entices the viewer’s eye up from the ice-covered lake in the foreground.

Lost lake -- How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

What if my image doesn’t have any neutral tones?

It’s not impossible to realistically edit images without strong neutrals. But since your viewer has no neutral reference to root the color palette, you will need a compelling balance of warms and cools to convince the viewer you didn’t artificially crank up the white balance.

This shot from the village of Brunate (below) doesn’t have any substantial neutrals. Although the fog could be considered a neutral source, it strongly reflects the colors in the sky. However, the overpowering warmth in the top left sky is balanced by cooler tones in the rest of the image, which keeps the white balance from being entirely warm and pink.

The contrast also draws the viewer’s eye from the village in the foreground to the beautiful sky in the background.

Brunate - How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Conclusion

Crafting realistic edits in landscape photography is a subjective experience. But by carefully preserving your neutrals, you grant yourself almost unlimited creative liberties in the editing process.

So next time you want a fall photograph to feel like a shot from Rivendell, identify the sources of neutral tones in your image and apply these techniques.

The post How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos

Posted in Photography

 

What are your greatest fears as a photographer?

24 Jul

In light of two big losses in the creative space – first that of Kate Spade and then that of the much loved and idolized Anthony Bourdain, there are a lot of questions being asked in the creative industry around success and personal happiness.

Why did this happen? What could have triggered these terrible tragedies? How many more are silently suffering? Is there such a thing as too much success? And alternatively what does success truly mean to us creatives?

Taj hotel Mumbai India at Sunrise - What are your biggest fears as a photographer?

Before I go any further with this article I have to make some things very clear. This article is not intended to make light of the situation(s) that lead to the demise of either Kate Spade or Anthony Bourdain. If anything, I really want us, the creative industry, to really sit up and take notice of the challenges and difficulties we all face in achieving our own levels of success.

I still use my Kate Spade wallet. In fact, it was the first wallet I gifted myself when I landed my corporate job 15 years ago. There was something about the Kate Spade brand that really resonated with me at that time – it symbolized femininity, freedom, success, and achievement.

Anthony Bourdain inspired me to dream big dreams and instilled a love of travel and people unlike anyone else I had ever seen. The fact that both of these global icons were lost in such similar situations really pushes us to ask those difficult questions around success, hustle, and challenges that go hand in hand.

So let’s start by addressing some of the most common fears that we photographers face on a day to day basis.

Fear #1 – How to make money as a photographer?

Let’s deal with the elephant in the room – I don’t think there really is a correct way to answer this question. Just as there are hundreds of genres of photography – from the super-niche to the really broad – there are hundreds of ways to make money with your photography.

Some of the most commonly explored ones are around consumer photography services, photography education, product sales, commercial photography, visual branding, etc.

I am of the opinion that diversifying your portfolio to include a few different revenue streams is a smart way to do business as a photographer. Diversification not only gives you the creative freedom to explore different genres of photography but also encourages you to learn new techniques and skills.

Additionally, earning a steady income during the off-season helps reduce the anxiety around money.

Moody Summer Florals - What are your biggest fears as a photographer?

Florals as images for digital screensavers as well as postcards and thank you cards are a nice way to sell prints and diversify your photography income.

Fear #2 – How to learn all the required technical stuff?

Photography is as much a science as it is an art form. If you don’t believe me just take a look at your camera user manual. To really get good at the art of photography you need to understand the technical terms as well as the soft skills like composition, posing, communicating, etc. There is a lot of stuff to learn and understand to really excel in this craft.

Luckily there are many online classes as well as in-person workshops that teach and train you in various aspects of photography. While you can really learn a lot from free courses, articles, and videos, there is a lot of value to be had in workshops and classes. Not only do you get to connect with professionals in the areas that you want to specialize in, you also get to meet others who are in the same boat as you.

Don’t view other photographers as your competitors. Instead, view them as your peers. These are the people who understand you and the passion you have for this field because they have it too. Focus on building your community of friends, peers, and people who you can connect with when you have difficulties and challenges.

Having a strong support system is really important especially in creative fields.

Fear #3 – That you don’t have the right gear

Let’s break this down into one simple question. What does one need to create an image? The answer is a camera!

It truly does not matter what camera you have. Just google iPhone photography and you will find some amazing artists who are creating phenomenal work with just their phones. Similarly, if you search for photographers who use entry-level DSLR cameras, you will find many great photographers who still work with a basic DSLR camera and a kit lens!

You don’t need the latest full frame or mirrorless camera and pro-grade lens to create great images. Focus more on learning and understanding the technical skills than on the gear.

When you are just starting out, experiment with different cameras and lenses to see which ones feel right. Rent or borrow gear from other photographers so you can become good at creating great images no matter the gear.

For the first two years of my business, I only had one camera and one lens. I rented the gear I needed depending on the job which helped me keep my costs low. There are many ways of being successful without going broke.

Pelican Flying over the water -

You will need different gear to photograph wildlife than you would to do food photography for a restaurant. But that does not mean you need to go buy all the gear out there for each and every genre. Use the basics first and then add on when you are ready!

Fear #4 – That your work isn’t good enough

In any field of work, the only way to produce great work is to do the work. There truly is no such thing as overnight success. You might look at someone who seems to have achieved a lot (which is really subjective by the way) and think that they have it easy.

But you don’t see the true reason for that success. You don’t see the late nights, the hustle, the constant planning and execution, the anxiety over money, the failures, the challenges and the struggles. You don’t see them because they are generally not talked about openly.

So before you question how to produce great work, go ahead and consistently do the work. Get out there and photograph even when you don’t want to. Photograph in different lighting situations to understand light. Work with different subjects so you know how to interact and communicate to get the look you want.

Reach out and connect with other creatives and collaborate on projects. Everyone who wants to make it big is willing to do the work, are you?

Sunset on the water with a cruise ship

Great work – work that you are proud of – takes practice. So get out there and practice everyday.

Fear #5 – Not getting any clients, inquiries, and bookings

You can have the best portfolio, the best website and the perfect studio space. But it all means nothing if you are not getting a steady stream of inquiries and clients.

The only way to really get clients and bookings is to actively go seek them. One way to seek new clients is to put yourself out there as a photographer/creative artist. Network with people from different industries, pitch your work to your ideal clients, market your work effectively and the inquiries will come.

Sure this will take time but if you are in this industry for the long game then take the time to make a mark with your work.

Japanese temple in San Francisco

Fear #6 – That your portfolio isn’t diverse enough

Look, we all start somewhere and there is no shame in that. I remember when I first started building my portfolio I had a ton of pictures of my kids and those of my friends and family. I would practice every opportunity I would get with people I knew.

Slowly I started getting confident about my work and made it known that I was an aspiring family photographer. I didn’t focus on the sale but instead on building a network of clients. I networked with other photographers via in-person meetings as well as online forums and learned as much as I could about the business of photography.

 Moody white flowers photos

So when you are just starting out, put yourself out there. Ask friends and family if you can practice your photography skills on them. Reach out to others and see if you can collaborate.

There is no lack of ways to build your portfolio – you just have to get comfortable with asking.

Fear #7 – Not knowing how to market yourself

We live in a very different world now more than ever. Everything is online and everyone is online. Traditional forms of marketing like print ads, radio, and TV don’t do as well as online and social media marketing.

Since social media and online presence seems to be the new status quo, make sure you have an online presence. And remember social media is all about being social! So make sure you are being social online by sharing a little bit about you and not just your work. Work on building a relationship with clients and potential clients because people will only buy from brands (and people) that they know, like and trust.

Invest in social media marketing and advertising as well as traditional forms of marketing. A lot of my work still comes from word of mouth and referrals, so make sure you are taking advantage of those channels as well.

Wedding couple against Chicago riverwalk background

Sharing and promoting your best work as part of your marketing campaigns is a great way to grow your reach and your business.

Conclusion

I hope these tips were helpful and shed light on some of the commonly expressed fears that others including myself regularly experience.

Please remember that you are not on an island without any help and nor are you the only one going through all these emotions and feeling of anxiety around your work. We all face these same issues time and time again.

The key is to objectively work through them and come out strong. If you are truly passionate about photography and want to make it a career, keep up the hard work and the fruits of your labor are bound to be as sweet as can be!

The post What are your greatest fears as a photographer? appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on What are your greatest fears as a photographer?

Posted in Photography

 

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

23 Jul

Shooting in low light conditions can result in beautiful photographs. But it also presents plenty of technical challenges for you as a photographer to overcome.

noodles in a person's hands - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

The main issues with doing low light photography are:

  • You may not be able to use a shutter speed fast enough to hand hold your camera without creating camera shake.
  • If you use a high ISO, your photos can be very noisy.
  • Shooting at a wider aperture might not give you the depth-of-field you need to get enough of the subject in focus.
  • Your pictures can be underexposed and lack shadow detail.
  • It may be difficult for your lens to focus in low light.

Working with a tripod can greatly reduce some of these technical difficulties, but what about situations where shooting handheld is usually a necessity, like street photography? Or in places where a tripod may be prohibited, like a restaurant or museum?

There are ways to take control of your camera to ensure you get the most out of these challenging situations.

urban street scene high viewpoint - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

Tip #1 – Use a Prime Lens

There is no denying that zoom lenses are convenient, but choosing a prime over a zoom lens can ensure that your images will be that much sharper.

Zoom lenses are constructed with extra glass elements that move in order to zoom. More elements within the lens contribute to lens diffraction, a phenomenon of optical physics that degrades the quality of an image. Lens diffraction is why a generic prime lens can often be sharper than a much pricier zoom counterpart.

2 images of a tree and leaves - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

Shot with an 85mm prime lens.

Tip #2 – Use Shutter Priority

We’re taught that the best way to get great photos is to always shoot in Manual Mode, but sometimes this isn’t the case. In low light photography, shooting in shutter priority mode will help you take better control of your camera.

Shutter Priority mode lets you set the ISO and shutter speed, while the camera will calculate the best aperture for the lighting conditions in which you’re working.

The shutter speed needs to be fast enough to prevent camera shake. Your settings will vary, depending on your focal length and the size of your camera’s sensor. A good approach is to start with the same number (as a fraction) as your focal length for a full frame camera, and then add a stop (double it).

For example, if you are shooting with a 50mm on a full frame camera, try 1/100th of a second and check your results. For a cropped sensor, double your focal length number and add a stop (so 50mm x 2 = 100 x 2 = 200 so 1/200th).

Keep in mind that this is only a guideline. It’s to be used as a quick baseline from which to start. Your camera, the lens you’re using, and the environment you’re shooting in are all factors that will influence your end result.

Tip #3 – Use a High ISO

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - tree with pink lights in it

Your images can be very noisy at a high ISO. Some cameras handle high ISO settings better than others, but the vast majority of DSLRs (and mirrorless cameras) these days have good ISO capabilities. At least good enough to give you a decent base file for post-processing.

Lightroom and Photoshop can fix noise effectively, but the best results can be had with a program called Dfine from DxO’s Nik Collection. (Note: Once available for free, this plug-in can now be purchased with the entire Nik Collection from DxO).

The software measures select areas of your image for noise and adjusts it automatically. You can also take control and selectively increase and decrease noise reduction intensity and type in different parts of the image.

Before beginning to shoot in low light, I recommend doing an ISO test to determine how far you can push it with your camera. Run a few images through your post-processing program of choice and analyze the results. If you need to do a lot of noise reduction, your images might end up looking too plastic.

Tip #4 – Use Back Button Focus

Many of us rely on autofocus these days, especially if we have less than 20/20 vision. Both autofocus and manual focus have their pros and cons.

For example, when using autofocus, it’s very easy for the camera to miss focus at wider apertures. Also, when a scene lacks contrast, which is often the case in low lighting scenarios, the lens may struggle to find focus. You can remedy this by focusing on the edge of a brighter spot in your frame and then recomposing.

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - images show in low light with back button focus

You’ll need to use focus lock, or back button focus so your camera doesn’t attempt to refocus once you try to recompose. Back button focus moves the trigger for focusing from the shutter button to the back of your camera. When your focus is not set with the shutter button, your camera will not attempt to refocus when you take a shot.

I always have my camera set to back button focusing, whether I am shooting in low light or not.

Low Light Portraits

If you need to shoot portraits in low light without a tripod, try image stabilization if your lens offers this technology. Image stabilization counteracts any minor vibration due to shaky hands.

An image stabilizer can help you shoot at a slower shutter speed that you ordinarily would with a lens that doesn’t have this function.

When shooting portraits, shoot at the lowest (widest) aperture possible. It will give you a narrower depth of field, which will help you blur out a busy background by letting it fall out of focus. If possible, use a reflector to bounce some light onto your subject’s face.

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - portrait in low light

This child portrait above was shot handheld, very late in the day, without a reflector. Despite using some of the tips outlined here, it still was underexposed. I was able to bring some brightness back by using Curves in Photoshop and lightened the right side of her face a bit to counter some of the dreaded raccoon-eyes you often get with low light portraits.

Post-processing can go along way toward counteracting some of the problems encountered in low light photography, but trying to get things as perfect as you can in-camera, will save you a lot of time and headaches later.

Low Light Landscapes

Shooting at the golden hour or blue hour, when the light is low, is an ideal time to shoot landscapes. But it also presents the same challenges. In this case, a good, sturdy tripod is essential.

Also, you’ll need a shutter release. Manually depressing the shutter button will cause a vibration that will introduce camera shake and cause your images to be less than sharp.

When shooting landscapes in low light conditions, use Manual or Aperture Priority mode and be careful not to underexpose, or you’ll end up with too little shadow detail.

Your aperture should be fairly narrow, such as f/8 or f/11. Stopping down to apertures such as f/16 or f/22 can cause lens diffraction, in either prime or zoom lenses, no matter the quality. Shooting at f/8 will give you a good depth of field and enough sharpness. Not to mention, most lenses function at their best around this aperture.

Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions - marina at night shot

Bulb mode is also a great way to shoot landscape photography. This mode is mostly used for long exposures at night or in dark conditions and allows you to do an exposure longer than 30 seconds. You can keep the shutter open as long as required to get the shot in this mode.

If image sharpness continues to be an issue, taking three identical images with different focus points and blending them together using the focus stacking function in Photoshop is an excellent remedy.

Low Light Indoors

Sometimes you’ll need to shoot indoors in low light where you can’t use a flash, such as in a museum or a restaurant. You can choose to crank up your ISO and try Shutter Priority, as mentioned above.

For shooting subjects like food or still life indoors in natural light, shoot by a window and do a long exposure with the camera on your tripod. As long as you have some light, you can still shoot. Use reflectors to bounce some of the light back onto your subject.

Long exposures can be used for still life indoors pomegranate - Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

In Summary

The key to getting consistently great results shooting in low light is understanding the principles as outlined above. Take some time to practice and take notes on what you observe while trying to get a well-exposed image.

After a while, it will become second nature for you to know what to do in any given low light situation.

The post Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions

Posted in Photography

 

Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera’s Diopter – Here’s How

23 Jul

Have you ever looked through a camera’s viewfinder and only been able to see a blurry image even after focusing? If you are always seeing a blurred image the diopter is not set correctly for your eyes. This happens every time I pick up my wife’s camera. She is near-sighted and I am far sighted.

Demonstration of diopter blur photo - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

What your viewfinder looks like when the diopter is not set correctly for your eye.

What is a diopter?

The diopter is a small lens in your camera’s viewfinder. It allows you to match the focus of your viewfinder to your eye. So before I can see anything clearly through the viewfinder on my wife’s camera I must focus this small lens. She has to do the same when she uses my camera.

If your eyesight is good and you are using a camera that’s had the diopter adjusted, you will see a blurry image in the viewfinder. You will need to adjust the diopter to correct this so you can see a sharp image.

I am surprised by the number of people who join our workshops here in Thailand that tell me they never see anything sharp in their viewfinder. After a quick adjustment, they are often surprised by how sharp the image is appearing in their viewfinder.

sharp photo illustrating diopter setting - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

When your diopter is adjusted properly you will see a sharp image and a sharp information display.

The easiest way to see if your diopter needs adjusting is to look at the information and guidelines you see in your viewfinder. If you cannot clearly see the numbers and lines sharply this means your diopter is not set correctly for your eyes.

How to Adjust the Diopter

DSLR cameras with optical viewfinders and mirrorless cameras with electronic viewfinders all have diopters.

Diopter Adjustment Wheel - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How
Locate the Diopter Adjustment Control

The diopter adjustment control will most likely be a small wheel or slider close to your camera’s viewfinder. Most diopter controls are labeled with + and – signs.

Mount Your Camera

When you want to adjust the diopter it is best to have your camera mounted on a tripod or somewhere it will not move. You want to do this where you have a scene with good contrast. Something that your camera can autofocus on easily.

Focus Your Camera

Focus your camera using the autofocus. If you are using a camera or lens without autofocus you will need to look at the focus indicators in the viewfinder to ensure the lens is in focus. If your diopter is adjusted incorrectly for your eyes you will not see a sharp image in the viewfinder at this point.

photo of an eye - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How
Adjust Your Diopter

Start to turn the diopter wheel or move the slider. As the image comes into focus keep adjusting until you see a blurred image again. Now dial back your control so you see a sharp image (go back and forth until it’s as sharp as you can get). Now your diopter should be set correctly.

If you cannot see a sharp image in your viewfinder at any point of the adjustment you need to look at the display information. The exposure display in the viewfinder will come into focus at some point. If the display info is sharp in your viewfinder but the image is still blurry, you have a different problem.

The problem may be with the camera’s autofocus system or the lens. Here are a few suggestions for what to do in this situation:

  • Try changing lenses or zooming.
  • Make sure your lens is set to autofocus.
  • Attempt to focus manually.
  • Check focus using your camera’s LCD screen and Live View
  • Take your camera for repair.

Chinese Woman Photographer - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

Wearing Glasses or Contacts

If you normally wear glasses or contact lenses you can adjust your diopter to suit.  If you prefer wearing glasses while using your camera, adjust the diopter with your glasses on.

But if you prefer not to wear your glasses while using your camera’s viewfinder, make the adjustments while you are not wearing them. If your eyesight is quite bad you may not be able to adjust your diopter sufficiently though and may need to keep your glasses on.

Add-On Diopter Accessories

If your diopter will not adjust to give you a clear image in your viewfinder you might need an add-on accessory diopter. Not all camera models will accommodate these so you will need to check your camera manual.

Boy with glasses - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

Diopter adjustment is simple but can make a significant difference to your photography enjoyment. It is always good to see a sharp image when you look through your viewfinder.

The post Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera’s Diopter – Here’s How appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera’s Diopter – Here’s How

Posted in Photography

 

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

22 Jul

Blogging is a very important marketing tool for photographers. However, it can be quite a time-consuming task having to process the photos for each post in Photoshop or any other editing application. The BlogStomp software, in my opinion, has changed blogging for photographers.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

A collage of images made with BlogStomp.

What is BlogStomp?

BlogStomp is a simple blogging software that allows you to drag and drop the files you wish to use to create photographs the exact size that you want. You can make collages, or batch process many photos for a gallery, social media, or other storage devices. 

BlogStomp also lets you add your own logo to the final photos either on tabs or on the image itself. 

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

BlogStomp interface.

There are many features for personalization so that your final photos are ready to post where you want. It cuts the blogging process by more than half the time, especially if you are creating a rather photo-heavy post or gallery. BlogStomp also creates a folder on your desktop of the photos that you have “stomped” which makes it easier to find and upload them to wherever you are posting images.

Key Features

Image Processing

The most useful feature of BlogStomp is in the “Freestyle” tab where you can choose one or more photos to create collages. Here you can preview, modify, crop, add text, and choose the best layout to suit your needs. 

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

On the right, you can see the various layout options as well as make your own custom layout.

Settings Tab

In the “Settings” tab, you can choose the image width, how much of a border or margin between photos you’d like to have, as well as add a tab underneath the photo. In this same tab is where you would add your logo.

You can also choose the output settings where you can customize the file names, set where you want your Stomped folder to be located on your computer, and configure how much sharpening you want for the final images.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

In the settings, you can change the layout size, border, margin, and select the template you want to use. In Output, you have the option of giving the files a specific name and choosing where you want the Stomped folder to be placed.

Freestyle Tab

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Add a color block and place it below or next to your photo.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Double-click to switch out photos in the layout.

Hitting the “Mix it up” button will cycle through different layouts using the photos that you have chosen to give you options. You can also double-click and switch the photos.

Batch Tab

The “Batch” tab will process all of the photos that you have in the sidebar individually to the size and settings that you have previously set up. This can save you a lot of time if you are uploading a lot of photos into an online gallery for viewing. 

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Batch process all of your photos at once.

Media Tab

The “Media” tab allows you to “stomp” the photos onto a storage device, like a USB stick, so that they all fit. This is really helpful when dealing with huge files that you want to keep all on the same USB, or similar storage device.

You can drag and drop your photos or choose from the ones that you have already previously “stomped”.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Don’t worry about storage space, this option will fit your images onto your media device.

BlogStomp also creates a folder on your desktop of the photos that you have “stomped” which makes it easier to find and upload them to wherever you are posting. 

The app will also let you know if your image is not the right size originally for the final output size. Which is helpful because this can mean the difference between publishing a pixelated image or a high-quality image.

Post Directly to a Blog or Social Media

You can stomp your photographs directly onto any of the following blog sites: WordPress, Tumblr, Blogger, ExpressionEngine, and Live Journal. Simply set up your blog details and begin writing. Use the stomped photos that you have created, add categories, and publish all from the same app.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Choose from these blog sites. Stomp Software says they will be adding more sites to the list soon.

Use BlogStomp to also post directly to Facebook or Twitter. Insert your login details and use the photos that you’ve stomped previously. 

In the Freestyle tab, you also have the option of sizing the photographs for Instagram or Facebook covers (above). This comes in handy when you’re publishing to social media often or using a social media app like HootSuite which requires the photos to be square in order to post to Instagram, for example.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Posting to Twitter with BlogStomp.

Upload to Gallery services

In the “Gallery” tab, you can set up any of the following gallery/proofing services: Shoot Proof, SmugMug, Zenfolio, and Photoshelter. It’s really easy to set up and get your galleries uploaded in half the time.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Why use BlogStomp?

I think it goes without saying that editing a wedding or image-heavy blog post in Photoshop or the like can take hours. Using BlogStomp as part of your workflow can help reduce the time that you are spending at the computer by processing your photos for your blog, galleries, storage devices, and social media in one fell swoop. 

I have been using this app for more than five years and it has served me well in so many ways. All of the photos in my past articles have been processed using BlogStomp. The photos that I use for social media are processed in BlogStomp.

Create marketing material in minutes with the collage layouts for both print and online. I have also used it for creating inspiration boards for future sessions.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

This is a final stomped photo with a white tab below the collage and my logo added.

In addition to saving you time, it is also really simple and easy to use. Each feature is easy to navigate without any extra hoops or steps. It’s a straightforward app that helps you blog faster and share your photos with the best quality. 

How much does it cost?

Finally, it’s priced reasonably for the amount of use that it will get. There are two options: Individual and Studio Pack. 

The individual option includes two installs on different computers and is priced at $ 49. The studio pack includes 5 installs on different computers and is priced at $ 89. It’s a one time fee and it really is the best value for an app like this. 

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

You can create many different collages with the features inside BlogStomp. Change the background in settings, add a stroke to the images, choose the margin size between photos, and add rounded corners all in the same app.

Other Stomp Software

BlogStomp is just one of three Stomp Software apps offered by the company. 

Album Stomp is a great software for designing albums and Album Prufr is proofing albums where your clients can preview and make changes. The company offers a bundle option for all three on their website.

Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Not convinced? The company offers you the opportunity to download a free trial before purchasing. You can use the full version with the app logo/watermark. This is great for learning to use the app and seeing first-hand whether this is an app that could work for your workflow.

In conclusion

Blogging can be a daunting task with hours of photo processing. But thanks to BlogStomp and the Stomp Software, blogging has never been easier and faster without compromising on image quality or style. 

Use this app as a part of your regular workflow and cut the time that you spend at the computer. Overall, the app is worth its value in both time and quality. Test the app for yourself before you make the decision to buy. You won’t regret it.

The post Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Review of BlogStomp Software for Photographers

Posted in Photography

 

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

22 Jul

Lightroom is an ever-changing ever-morphing evolution of the cutting edge of digital image processing. Quite literally, it seems like Adobe releases new features and updates for their upper tier consumer photo editing software extremely frequently. Now, some of these updates and new features are loved by the photographic community and others…well, not so much.

One of these brand new features, called the “Range Mask”, came along with the v7.2 release of Lightroom Classic CC back in February (2018) and it caused quite a stir. It allows you to incorporate masking with the local adjustment tools right inside of Lightroom V7.2 and later.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC - Death Valley

As with most fresh features in Lightroom, some photographers were a little bit skeptical about its actual usefulness in their editing workflow. It’s an interesting tool to be sure and after this, you’ll know everything there is to know about the brand new range mask feature in Lightroom Classic CC.

What is the Range Mask?

Before we get too far into the conversation let’s take a moment and briefly talk about masks as they pertain to editing photographs. A mask is simply a way for you to control what areas of a photo receive the edits you want to apply. There is a huge range of mask types and they vary quite infinitely in their applications.

Usually, masks are routinely used in Photoshop. The old adage “black conceals and white reveals” was born directly from the usage of layer masking inside Photoshop. For the purposes of understanding the range mask in Lightroom, just know that masks allow selective control over edits within a photo.

The new range masking feature provides you with two different methods for applying masks: luminance and color.

Luminance Range Masking

If you’re a Photoshop user, think of luminance masking as a boiled down version of luminosity masks. Don’t sweat it if you’ve never used luminosity masking in Photoshop. Just know that the luminance mask applies local adjustments based on the brightness range you select.

luminance slider - An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

This means that you can apply any edit from a local adjustment tool to only the shadows, highlights, or mid-tone luminance ranges that you choose. The luminance masking function also features a “smoothing” slider. This controls the intensity of the masking effect from hard to soft.

Color Range Masking

Conceptually, the color range mask works just as the luminance range mask except instead of basing its masking on brightness it relies on the color ranges you select with the dropper tool.

color range mask - An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

The dropper tool lets you select a large color palette by clicking and dragging the eye-dropper over an area of your photo.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Using the eye-dropper tool to select the color range.

Alternatively, you can also select up to four (five without the large area selected) highly specific color areas by shift+clicking each desired point.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Using the dropper to select up to 5 target colors for the mask range.

It’s important to note that you can not use both the luminance and color range masks within the same local adjustment tool at the same time. However, you can create a new local adjustment (or duplicate one) and “layer” the masks as many times as you see fit.

How to use the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Alright, let’s get down to business and look at an example of how the luminance and color range masks work. It’s extremely easy and can yield some impressive results once you get the hang of things.

Using the Luminance Range Mask

Here’s an image from an awesome night I spent in Death Valley a couple months ago.

death valley no-edit An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Let’s say I want to use the Gradient Filter tool to brighten up that foreground and bring out a little more detail around the two people crouched by the fire.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

That looks okay, but it definitely caused the highlight portions of the sky to be a little too bright for my taste. To solve this, I’ll apply a luminance range mask.

Simply select “Luminance” from the mask selection drop-down. Next, adjust the slider so that most of the highlights are excluded from the gradient filter adjustments and voila! The sky is no longer overexposed yet the foreground is now much more visible.

And since you can use the range mask with any edit in the local adjustment tool kit I went ahead and added in a little clarity and highlight boost to really make the foreground pop.

To truly demonstrate the effect of the luminance range mask I’ll tick the “show selected mask overlay” box at the bottom of the view window (the keyboard shortcut to show the overlay is O). The areas in red are the portions of the image where the gradient filter has applied its edits.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Gradient Filter applied without a mask. See how it is affecting parts of the sky as well.

Next, let’s have a look at the effect of the luminance range mask.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Gradient Filter with the Luminance Mask applied. Notice how the sky is now less affected in the bright areas.

Notice how the red masking recedes from the highlights in the skyline? It’s not overly obvious in this example but it will be incredibly apparent when we take a look at the effects of the color range mask.

Using the Color Range Mask

We’ll stick with the same photo from earlier for this example. But this time I’m going to use a Radial Filter to brighten up the fire and add some saturation to make the orange glow of the flames stand out more from that gorgeous purple of the desert night.

First, let’s see how a normal Radial Filter looks when applied to the area in question.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Radial Filter applied in Lightroom Classic CC.

Sure, it definitely brightens and adds saturation to the fire but it also added the adjustments to the entire filter area.

To remedy this, I’ll use the color range mask. I begin by using the‘shift+click and drag method to select the majority of the fire area color. Next, I set the Amount slider for the color range mask virtually to zero so that the mask really targets just those oranges and reds. This is the result:

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

And remember how I said you could immediately discern the effects of the color range mask? Well, look at the mask overly before the color masking was applied….

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Radial Filter without masking.

…and now check out the incredible selectivity of the color mask.

An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Radial Filter with color range mask applied.

Final Thoughts on the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

The new range mask feature borrows the power of Photoshop layer masks and brings it home to the warm safety and comfort of Lightroom. While the range mask is admittedly nowhere near as versatile and customizable as say a luminosity mask in Photoshop, it does have its own excellent merits when it comes to taking more control of your local edits.

With the luminance range mask, you can fine-tune where your edits are applied based on the brightness levels within the photo. This is hugely beneficial when working with highly contrasted scenes and works great for black and white images.

The color range mask harnesses the power of color to let you creatively select exactly which tones will receive your adjustments. As you saw in the examples above, the color range mask is an excellent way to really bring out the contrast when working with complementary colors.

If you haven’t updated to the Lightroom Classic CC v7.2 or later then I urge you to do so now. Take the new range mask feature for a spin and let us know what you think in the comments below.

The post An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on An In-Depth Look at the Range Mask in Lightroom Classic CC

Posted in Photography

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – Simplify

21 Jul

It’s time once again for the weekly photography challenge. This week your job is to do LESS! Yup, that’s right we want you to put less in your photos. Simplify your images down to one easily identifiable subject with a minimalist composition and simplicity.

Simplify – you don’t need to see the whole thing to get the message here.

How else can you simplify? Perhaps get rid of all color and shoot monochrome or convert to black and white later? Here are some ideas for simplifying or getting minimalist.

  • How to Simplify and Improve Composition with Normal or Long Lenses
  • 4 Tips for the Minimalist Photographer
  • The Minimalist Landscape Photographer: What do you really need?
  • Tips for Minimalist Photography in an Urban Environment
  • 5 Guidelines of Minimalist Photography to Help Improve Your Work

Here’s an example of a really busy landscape scene. Now let’s simplify it!

Get closer to the subject so it’s super obvious to viewers what you want them to look at. Less is more! 

Weekly Photography Challenge – Simplify

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Simplify appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Weekly Photography Challenge – Simplify

Posted in Photography

 

Tips for Using a Reflector the Right Way Outdoors

20 Jul

A reflector is easy to use, right? Just open it and put it under your model’s chin. WRONG!

Using a reflector may seem really simple but most new photographers make one big mistake with them. They put them in the wrong place to make flattering light on their subject.

Tips for Using a Reflector the Right Way Outdoors

In this video from Joe Edelman, see how NOT to do it, and get some tips on how to use a reflector the right way.

Items mentioned in the video:

  • California Sunbounce Mini-Reflector – $ 149
  • 32″ Soft white/silver reflector by Rogue – $ 29.95

Find other dPS articles about reflectors here:

  • 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
  • 10 Ways to Use a 5-in-1 Reflector
  • Tips for Using Reflectors to Create Beautiful Portraits
  • DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
  • Choosing the Right Color Reflector for Your Photography

The post Tips for Using a Reflector the Right Way Outdoors appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Tips for Using a Reflector the Right Way Outdoors

Posted in Photography