Category: Photography

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Panoramas

    Gorge Heritage Walk Panoramas by Caz Nowaczyk

    Gorge Heritage Walk in Mt Buffalo National Park, Victoria in Winter on a sunny day by Caz Nowaczyk

    This week’s photography challenge topic is PANORAMAS!

    Panoramas are a fantastic way to capture the vastness and detail of the subject that you are shooting. Whether it’s a dynamic landscape or cityscape, panoramas always have an impact.

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on how to take panoramas and how to edit them together for the final product.

    Tips for Shooting Panoramas

    How to Shoot and Stitch a Panorama Photo

    21 Tips to Help You Create Better Panoramas

    How to Shoot Really Big Panoramas

     

    Tips For Stitching Panoramas in Post

    How to Match Exposures when Stitching Panoramas in Photoshop

    Step by Step Using Merge to Panorama in Lightroom

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Panoramas

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSPANORAMAS to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    New England Highway by Caz Nowaczyk - Panoramas

    Winter sunrise on the New England Highway, Llangothlin, NSW by Caz Nowaczyk

     

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Panoramas appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Why Limiting Free Users to 1,000 Photos on Flickr is a Smart Move

    Tim O'Reilly

    Yesterday Flickr made their first big restructuring announcement since recently being purchased by SmugMug. Beginning next year on January 8th, Flickr will limit free accounts to 1,000 photos. The previously offered free 1 terabyte of storage goes away. At the same time Flickr is returning their paid pro account to unlimited storage which had been their original offer before capping new Pro accounts at 1 terabyte back in 2013. If you were Pro before 2013 you were considered “old school” Pro and kept your unlimited storage, but new accounts were limited. Now all Pro accounts are back to being unlimited.

    In 1973 the artists Richard Serra and Carlota Fay Schoolman broadcast a short video titled “Television Delivers People”. In that video a simple assertion was made: the product of television. commercial television. is the audience. Television delivers people to an advertiser. Since then, various influential individuals from Tim O’Reilly to Steve Wozniak to Apple CEO Tim Cook have all repeated the mantra: “if you’re not paying for it, you’re not the customer, you’re the product being sold.”

    To put things more simply, there are two viable business models on the internet today to deliver service. There is a paid subscription model and there is a “free” model where business sell your data and make money on advertising everything from Butterfinger candy bars on Instagram to “brain force” pills via Alex Jones.

    Personally I prefer to pay for an ad-free online experience which is one of the reasons why I’ve enjoyed Flickr so much where I’ve had an opportunity to pay annually since I joined the service back in 2003. Flickr delivers a clean user interface, full high res photos, a compelling app for my iPhone, unlimited storage, kick ass organizational tools, a social community to engage with, search tools, stats, and much more.

    At $ 50/year (well technically $ 49.99 but I like to round up) I think Flickr delivers tremendous value. I have spent thousands of hours of my life on the site — thousands of ad-free hours not just for me, but for any of my friends or even strangers who happen to land on my photo page too. I am more than happy to pay this every year and will continue to do so until I die most likely. Hopefully I will figure out a way to even continue paying after I die as my personal life goal is to publish 1,000,000 photos before I die and then let that archive of work stand in all perpetuity after I am gone.

    So obviously Flickr works for me, but what about all those people who don’t/haven’t paid and just want to use the service for “free.”

    I believe that one of the reasons why Flickr was sold by Oath (who had purchased Yahoo’s content businesses) to Smugmug was because Oath realized that a hybrid subscription/free service doesn’t really work. It’s the same reason why Facebook is so resistant to offering a paid ad-free option to customers.

    Oath is basically an advertising company and when you are advertising at people you need to be able to advertise to your most profitable customers to make the service work. When you give your most profitable customers (i.e. the ones with money) the option to pay to opt out of ads they do and will. What you are left with is a bunch of accounts by heavy users who are either poor Americans or more likely poor overseas accounts or very light users who can put up with ads but won’t see very many because they are only on your site 2 minutes a week. Whatever the case, you are basically providing a terabyte of enterprise storage, bandwidth, support, etc., to customers who cannot economically be supported by advertising.

    In order for Flickr to survive it has to be a long-term profitable business. SmugMug knows a thing or two about how to do this as their primary model for over a decade has been entirely subscription based. As someone who wants to be able to host my photos on Flickr for the 50 remaining years I likely have left on this planet (and even after my death) in order to publish 1,000,000 photos, it’s important to me that Flickr has a long-term viable business model. This means that strongly encouraging free users (who are not currently paying their way) to migrate to paid Pro is important.

    I do think it is important for Flickr to offer a free account in order to give people an opportunity to try out the service to see if it is for them. 1,000 photos gives you plenty of opportunity to do just that. It gives you hundreds, even thousands, of hours to explore and enjoy the service without paying — but if you are a heavy user of the site and are using over 1,000 photos of space, at some point you ought to pay.

    By the way, Flickr’s original deal when I started with them was that they would only show your most recent 100 photos if you were a free account and the Pro account cost $ 60 (or $ 59.99) per year. So you might say the current account that gives you 10x that or 1,000 is 10x more generous than the original Flickr from way back.

    Besides the obvious business model reasons why this is a smart decision for Flickr and their users, there are other important reasons this makes Flickr better as well. One of the things I noticed after Flickr began offering 1 terabyte for free to users was that many users simply began using Flickr as a backup site for all of their photos. Instead of sharing their best photos with a community, they simply dumped everything on their hard drive to Flickr and left and went away. These photos were then indexed for search and populated the service littering it with low quality content (screengrabs, 1,000 bad photos in a row of fireworks, 3,000 poorly composed photos in a row of somebody’s sister’s wedding, etc.). By focusing Flickr’s vision on photo sharing and community rather than simply another online photo backup dump this makes the visual experience better for those of us who are actually there to share photos and engage with each other.

    Also, if people are willing to pay for something they tend to put more effort into it. If you are paying for something and perceive it’s value you’ll care more, contribute more and be a part of something. These are the accounts that I value on Flickr the most.

    Yesterday morning I had an opportunity to talk to Don MacAskill (SmugMug/Flickr CEO) about this most recent decision that Flickr is making on the phone. Don is someone who cares deeply about Flickr and its community. How many CEOs do you know that spend an entire day interacting with users in an online forum about a big change like this?

    I truly believe that yesterday’s decision not only paves the way to make Flickr viable for many years ahead, but that it paves the way for Don and his team to continue to spend money growing and building out the site for the community that is there and loves the service so much.

    There are still so many great things that can be done with Flickr going forward. Groups need work. Search needs work. Community needs work. The app needs work. All of these things do cost money though and by getting rid of the massive storage/bandwidth demands of 1 terabyte free accounts and gaining more paid subscribers, this will allow Flickr to do this important work to continue making Flickr the best photo sharing site on the internet for all of us who are a part of the Flickr community and love the site so much.

    I do understand that people don’t always want to pay for things, but I think that the right people will pay for Flickr because it provides them tremendous value. I pay for my Adobe Lightroom subscription. I pay for my Netflix account. I pay for these things because they provide me value. This is also why I pay for Flickr and will continue doing so many years into the future.

    Unfortunately as we have seen with services like Friendfeed (purchased by Facebook) or even Google+ (in the process of being killed by Google) social networks oftentimes get shut down. It is very important to me that Flickr remains profitable for the long-term so that I can count on it being there many, many years from now. I think yesterday’s decision helps make Flickr more economically viable and sustainable many years into the future.

    You can find me on Flickr here.

    [disclosure, I know people and have friends that work at both Flickr and SmugMug]


    Thomas Hawk Digital Connection

  • 7 Tips For Planning the Perfect Photography Trip

    ?

    Are you planning your next photography trip? This video from Nigel Danson outlines 7 tips for planning the perfect photography trip.

    In this awesome video, Nigel covers in some detail the following points:

    1. Ensure You Take the Right Gear

    Use Adobe Lightroom (or other post-processing applications you may use) to check out your favorite shots so you can see what lens you used. Chances are, you will find a trend towards one or two lenses, helping you to rule out the ‘just-in-case’ lenses. Try to stick to just 2 or 3.

    Tripod – something that is lightweight, yet durable is a good choice.

    Lens cloth – helpful for drying and cleaning your camera.

    Portable hard drive – to download your images from your camera.

    USB Battery Charger – If you run out of battery power on-location you can recharge via the USB.

    Handwarmers (if in cold locations) – great for warming hands (and batteries) when in cold or icy climates.

    2. Be Sure To Test All New Gear.

    Check all the settings on any new camera gear to both make sure they work the way you expect, and so you know how to use them!

    3. Understand Your Location

    Research the location beforehand. Use tools like Google Earth to allow you to visualize a place in 3D. With Google Earth, you can get an idea of the scenic points that you can see from particular positions..

    Check maps for routes, trails, and locations to narrow down where you would like to visit.

    Make a google map of that area and plot your locations.

    4. Focus on Fewer Locations

    Plan out the best locations, so you don’t end up with just lots of holiday snaps. The more time you spend in a particular location, the more you can explore the light and angles, and get much better images as a result.

    5. Understand the Time of Year in Detail

    Understanding the time of year in detail means you have a better understanding of when the sun rises and sets in that place and its position in the sky. Where the sun sits dictates the composition of your shot. A good app for checking these things is Photopills. Also, check the weather forecasts.

    6. Research the History and Culture of the Location

    You want to tell a story about the location you are visiting. You want to let people know what it was like there (to accompany your photos either via blog or in person). Having a background to your images is excellent for these reasons. It is also great to have conversations with locals about the area.

    Employ a local guide while you are there to find out the best spots and to get background information.

    7. Explore Social Media and the Web

    Take a look at what other people are photographing in that location, and look to take photos in spots that are covered least. That way you aren’t just making the same images as everyone else!

    Be sure to follow some of Nigel Danson’s tips for planning the perfect photography trip.

    If you have any tips of your own that you would like to share, please let us know in the comments below.

    You may also find the following articles on our site useful:

    Beginner’s Guide to Natural Light in Landscape Photography

    5 Landscape Photography Mistakes That Keep Your Images From Standing Out

    Using Layers and Foreground Interest for Better Landscape Photography

     

     

    The post 7 Tips For Planning the Perfect Photography Trip appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Understanding Tonal Range in Photography

    Understanding tonal range in photography can be the last thing on a photographers mind.

    As we progress on our particular paths, there can be times when even the most mindful of us take some things for granted. The simple elements are sometimes overlooked first – such as a sloppy tripod setup or assuming our cameras settings are where we last left them.

    In the same vein, the steadfast technical concepts of our photo work are misunderstood, misinterpreted or worse – completely forgotten. This malady spans every level of skill and afflicts both pros and hobbyists alike.

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 1

    Take as an example the most basic building block of any photograph; light. In our weirdly flexible digital age of post-processing, we can sometimes forget what is happening with the luminance values of our images.

    Our photographs are displays of contrast between light and dark, but the distance between the two are virtually limitless.

    A Brief Word on Tonal Range

    All that we’re talking about here today is the measure of brightness from complete dark to complete light. The range between the different brightness levels within our photos determines its degree of contrast. Take a look at this tonal scale:

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 2

    We move from complete darkness on the left (black) to complete light (whites) on the right. This scale applies for both color and black and white photographs. Now, let’s talk about each of these values and how they relate to your photography.

    Highlights

    Traditionally, I’ve always thought of highlights as the brightest portions of an image, which is not the case. At least not the case to the utmost extent. In truth, highlights can be considered the areas of a photograph which consist of high luminance values yet still contain discernible detail. Here’s an example of highlight luminance values:

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 3

    Notice that even though these areas are bright, there is still some discernible texture and detail to be made out within the bright spots. If we were to increase the exposure, in camera or with post-processing, it would become so bright that it would lose detail entirely, which brings us to our next point.

    Whites

    If we increase the brightness to the extent that our highlights become ‘blown out’ (where details are invisible), we have complete white.

    Even if the white area doesn’t appear white, it may be considered a total ‘white area’ due to the lack of detail. The following is an example of luminance considered total white:

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 4

    Depending on your photograph, it may or may not be desirable to push the exposure to the point of white-out. We’ll talk more about this as we discuss the relevance of tonal range in regards to constructing your images.

    Midtones

    A mid-tone is precisely that – all luminance values that are not dark or light are considered to be mid-tones. Most of the time our camera meter will attempt to expose for this average brightness when in ‘Automatic Mode.’

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 5

    While mid-tones help to ensure much information is contained in an image, a photograph consisting of only mid-tones lacks dynamics.

    Shadows

    Areas that appear as shadows are closely related to highlights albeit in the opposite direction. Shadows are the areas of a photo that are dark but still retain a level of detail.

    The above photo is a perfect example of more information in the shadow areas, so let’s use it one more time:

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 6

    These darker areas still possess information seen by the viewer. However, if we darken them to the point where that detail gets lost or ‘burnt out,’ then…you guessed it, they become a completely black luminance value.

    Blacks

    Any portion a photograph that has zero luminance is considered to be black. Much like the complete white areas earlier, these points within our images don’t have to be utterly devoid of color to be regarded as pure black.

    Let’s look at some shadows that are completely burnt out and retain no detail whatsoever:

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 7

    Completely black areas are so dark that you can see nothing. Consider them the ‘dark abyss’ within a photograph. Having these areas within your image isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so let’s talk about that now.

    Luminance Values and You

    If you ever open a conversation among a group of photographers about the suitability of brightness levels within a photograph, you’d see that the schism is split. Some photographers feel that images should contain no areas of complete black or complete white – that all portions of the photograph should present some level of detail for the viewer.

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 8

    Still, others contend that it’s perfectly fine to either burn or blow out some luminance values for the sake of contrast. Doing this means that there is an area of complete black and complete white so that all the other luminance values fall somewhere between those two absolutes.

    While it’s true that it is often desirable to deliver the maximum amount of visual information to your audience, this is not always the case. There are times when a crushed and burnt out shadow or a super-bright highlight are just what you need to bring a photograph home.

    Understanding Tonal Range in Photography 9

    Final Thoughts

    I’m happy to profess my opinion that there is no such thing as a set technique for each photograph you make. It might seem like a simple thing to remember, but it’s easy to overlook the importance of how different levels of brightness affect an image. Let’s take a quick run back through what we’ve learned about luminance values:

    • Highlights – Bright areas within a photo that still maintain detail
    • Whites – Areas of extreme brightness where there is absolutely no information(detail) remaining
    • Midtones – These are neither shadows or highlights but rather a middle value of luminance
    • Shadows – Darker areas of the image that still maintain detail
    • Blacks – Completely ‘burnt out’ portions of a photo that contains absolutely no detail

    Like most concepts in photography, it’s essential to have a full understanding of the tonal range falling within your photos. You should use this knowledge to strive for technical excellence and also so you know when to break the rules in favor of fulfilling your creative vision.

    How do you make use of tonal range in your images? Share with us your thoughts and images in the comments below.

    The post Understanding Tonal Range in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 1

    Towns and cities can be noisy, busy, stressful and congested but provide excellent subjects for photography. Taking great photographs of cities is not easy so here are six ideas to help you capture city scenes:

    1) City Skyscrapers

    Urban photography offers a great opportunity to document a cities environment.

    On a sunny day, most photographers choose to head out into nature, where the coast or a rolling landscape is usually only a short drive away.

    However, if you opt for urban landscapes, there are a whole manner of worthwhile subjects where you can point your lens. Skylines, architecture, famous landmarks and bridges are all beautiful examples of city elements worth capturing.

    Cities dominated by skyscrapers are visually exciting and provide a wealth of interesting buildings to view and photograph. You could find strong patterns, symmetry, dramatic lighting and different textures amongst high-rise buildings.

    Look for architectural or urban features that create interest and use a wide angle of view to convey a grander sense of the scene.

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 2

    Shanghai, China

    2) A Nocturnal Cityscape

    Cities are becoming more popular as destinations for short breaks. Overnight stays in cities provide an opportunity to photograph a nocturnal cityscape.

    One key advantage of shooting a city at night is you can work in all kinds of weather such as rain, snow or light fog.

    It is possible to do this because you are mainly focusing on elements that are characterized by darker tones with a few spots of color and light.

    When capturing cities in the dark, you don’t need to concentrate on the usual shadows and tonal gradations that are relevant in the daytime. You work purely with light.

    I suggest that you set yourself up before it gets dark so you can see what you’re doing and experiment with the changing light as it shifts from light to dark.

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 3

    MILLENIUM BRIDGE, London

    3) Reflected City

    Many buildings and city landmarks are so photogenic that they can be too familiar a subject to photograph.

    Instead of shooting the usual perspective of just buildings, concentrate on reflective surfaces that mirror back the surrounding architecture.

    You can find reflections in a pool of water, a polished surface or shiny glass (reflecting abstract patterns) and the bonnet of a car parked on a rooftop.

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 4

    Photographs of reflections are visually pleasing when executed correctly. To be most effective, select the maximum depth of field and aim to achieve an image that’s as sharp as possible.

    4) City Scenes by Night

    City centers become great light shows at night.

    They give an array of color from buildings to lights of passing cars. One tip I recommend is you capture the energy and excitement of a nighttime scene by including a human element.

    Doing so will make your images more dynamic and dramatic.

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 5

    Radcliffe Camera

    If you are shooting at night, you will need a slower shutter speed to capture the scene. Use this to your advantage by recording flowing traffic such as buses and taxis or colorful clouds.

    These can add motion to your city scenes or a splash of color to supplement the buildings in the background.

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 6

    Piran, Slovenia

    5) An Urban Landscape – Day Shots of the City

    Another way you can capture striking images of cities is to photograph the urban landscape.

    Perspectives can be obtained from ground level or by capturing the city from above. Overlook a city from a tower or a rooftop. Find interesting patterns, contrasting buildings or views of street life to photograph.

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 7

    University Church of Saint Mary the Virgin viewpoint

    When shooting from high elevations, if you have to lean out for your shot, make sure it is safe to do so. Secure your camera strap around your hand or neck to keep it safe.

    6) City Streets or Cityscapes From Afar

    6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes 8

    City streets provide intriguing and picturesque subjects such as human interest and variable light.

    You may find yourself walking past a location every day and not realize its potential. Until striking shadows from the sun transform it into a great composition that brings it to life.

    You don’t have to take pictures of city scenes only from close range. Take a step back and capture a wide shot of the urban landscape from afar. Seek out a viewpoint that allows you to obtain more context from an unusual angle.

    Conclusion

    Use these tips to go out and capture your best shots of city scenes and share your images in the comments below.

    The post 6 Tips For Photographing Better City Scenes appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Take Better Winter Landscape Photos

    Winter is personally my least favorite time of year – it’s cold, it’s depressing, there’s barely any sun out. But one thing that even I have to admit is that winter landscapes make for positively fantastic photographs – if you know how to approach them.  There are a couple of issues that even amateur photographers will notice when they take Continue Reading

    The post How to Take Better Winter Landscape Photos appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions

    As a photographer who captures rare and priceless moments, you can’t afford to have disasters during photo sessions. However, sometimes things go wrong regardless.

    If you have a recovery plan in action before anything goes wrong, you’ll never have to freeze up and panic at that moment. You’ll never have to fear a photo session getting ruined.

    If you psychologically prepare yourself for disasters in advance and rehearse the crisis in your mind, then you can switch to autopilot when it happens.

    Let me walk you through what to do when cameras fail, families fight, or photos fall short of your vision.

    Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions 1

    Knowing that you are prepared for any disaster will allow you to banish your worry and focus on the moment.

    1. Technology

    If you show up to a session with only one camera and one lens, you’re asking for a disaster to happen. You should always have a backup camera with you. Even if you have no intention of using it during the session, you need to have something to fall back on.

    I heard of a wedding photographer who showed up with one camera and one dead battery. The wedding was delayed for an hour while she searched around for somebody to help her find a battery. Don’t let that be you!

    Instead, bring two cameras and two lenses to every photo gig (along with spare batteries). I bring a Fuji camera with a 56mm lens. It’s the only camera and lens I’m interested in using.

    However, I keep a Nikon with an ultra-wide 10-24mm lens tucked in my camera bag (from before I switched to Fuji). It’s there in case I want a unique wide-angle photo. It’s also there in case of disaster.

    Golden hour, wide angle, landscape portrait, Disasters During Photo Sessions

    This is the sort of photo that I would take with my spare Nikon camera and wide angle lens. A couple of nice wide angle photos like this balance out the look of the photos taken with the portrait lens.

    Last spring, I timed a maternity session for the golden hour. If you’ve ever photographed during the golden hour, then you know how quickly the time passes. When the family arrived, I pulled out my camera, dialed in my settings, and then noticed with surprise that the battery was dead. ‘That’s strange; I always charge my batteries,’ I thought. I reached into my camera bag to pull out a spare battery and panicked when I realized I hadn’t brought any!

    Decide right now what you’ll do when your camera stops working, or you make a foolish mistake as I did. Decide right now what your backup plan is so that when it happens, you can switch to autopilot and get the job done.

    Most likely, you’ll reach for your second camera. That’s what I did.

    I had no choice but to shoot the whole session with an ultra wide angle lens! It’s the last lens I would ever choose to photograph portraits.

    Golden hour maternity photo - Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions

    All of the photos in this article are from the photo session with the ultra-wide lens. You can let a family down with your mistakes, or you can rise above and make whatever you’ve got work. I’ve seen enough episodes of “Pro Photographer, Cheap Camera” to know that beautiful photos can be made with nearly any camera and lens.

    Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions 3

    During one session, I was waist deep in a river. There was one camera around my neck and one in my hand. After a few minutes, I realized I had been dunking the camera around my neck into the water. Panic rushed through my head and chest – I just drowned a $ 2000 camera. But I calmly walked ashore, packed away the camera and got back to work. Nobody knew but me. I allowed the need to capture memories to overcome the panic I was feeling in the moment. I could deal with the camera later, there was a family counting on me. Decide in advance not to let your negative feelings rule you.

    Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions 4

    I’m more concerned about the people I’m photographing than the gear I’m using. Personality knows nothing about cameras and lenses, it shines whenever it wants to.

    2. People

    Beyond technology, other disasters can happen during your photo session.

    How about a family that arrives at the photo session in miserable moods and arguing? They probably found it stressful getting ready for the photo session.

    It’s uncomfortable for the photographer and might even lead to the family completely blowing up at each other.

    You can get upset and stressed out (how dare they treat me like this as a professional photographer?), or you can diffuse the situation.

    These scenarios can be tricky to figure out. Try to get them focusing on something else by asking questions and bringing up topics they love. Focus more on the kids first. If you can cheer them up, their excitement becomes contagious. You’ll find the moment that the tension is released, the scene turns to laughter.

    Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions 5

    Laughter is so contagious. My wife always comments that I come home from photo sessions in a better mood. It’s because there is so much laughter.

    Challenging Kids

    Once in a while, families bring me very challenging kids. One mom came with her non-verbal child. He didn’t take direction at all, and immediately ran off into the woods! All of the photos from that session were candid because the child didn’t sit long enough to pose. It wasn’t until he rested with exhaustion that I finally got a photo of him and his mom.

    It was the first session where I thought I had failed. However, upon reviewing the photos, I discovered many wonderful moments, and the mom loved them.

    You need to begin every tough situation by telling yourself, ‘there is a way.’ I now know that completely candid photo sessions are possible.

    Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions 6

    As a photographer, I prefer candid moments over posed ones. Even when posing a photo, I wait for the candid moment to appear.

    Terrified Kids

    I remember one little guy who was terrified of cameras. Just the sight of one sent him into hysterical tears. Beginning with the phrase, ‘there is a way,’ I built a trusting relationship with the child. It naturally led to smiles and no fear of my camera. It took a while, but it worked.

    3. Photos that Fall Short of Your Vision

    Every master was once a disaster – T. Harv Eker

    You may feel like some photo sessions were a disaster because you weren’t happy with how the photos turned out. It is perfectly reasonable for creative photographers struggling with their vision. It’s part of how you grow as a photographer. Allow that dissatisfaction to push you harder next time. Learn from your mistakes and let them prepare you to avoid future disasters.

    Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions 8

    In the end, I learned that an ultra wide angle lens can lead to nice photos. I broke my dependency on my favorite lens. It makes me wonder what other disasters will help me grow as a photographer.

    What is Your Biggest Fear?

    Technology, people, and our lack of creativity threaten our photo sessions all the time. But if you create and rehearse your backup plan in advance, you’ve got much less to actually worry about.

    What’s your biggest fear about a photo session going wrong? Let me know in the comments and see if we can figure out your backup plan in advance.

    The post Recovering From Disasters During Photo Sessions appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Tips for Using Continuous Lights in Your Photography

    Lighting is an essential building block of photography. Learning how to use light to your advantage can transform an ordinary photo into an extraordinary one. Many photographers begin their journey working with natural light and I firmly believe this is is a great place to start. But depending on the circumstance, artificial light may be needed.

    When it comes to artificial light, there are many options to choose from. Speedlights, strobe lights and continuous lights are all at your disposal, not to mention the various light modifiers. But while it’s nice to have this variety, trying to work out which light source is best for your shoot can become overwhelming.

    Tips for using continuous lights in your photography

    The Difference Between Speedlights, Strobe Lights and Continuous Lights

    Tips for using continuous lights in your photographySpeedlights are portable, battery operated lights that can attach to most cameras through the hot shoe mount. They can also be used off-camera by attaching them to a light stand and then activating them via wireless triggers.

    Strobes are larger (and typically more powerful) lights that are attached to light stands and activated through wireless triggers. Both speedlights and strobe lights emit a powerful burst of light when fired.

    Continuous lights emit light the entire time you have them on. Years ago these lights were commonly used in video production. After using them they’d be physically hot, and you had to wear special gloves to break them down. (I remember those days.)

    Thankfully, continuous lights are now more powerful, more portable, and cool to the touch.

     

    When to Use Continuous Lights

    Tips for using continuous lights in your photography

    Continuous lights are often overlooked in the world of photography. But sometimes they’re the best choice. If you’re an event photographer, you may find yourself shooting in a venue that doesn’t allow flash photography. In these cases, continuous lights may be permitted. Even if flash photography is allowed, you may still opt for continuous lights to avoid being a distraction. If it’s a sensitive event, setting continuous lights and leaving them on may be a better option.

    Continuous lights are also a viable option for portrait photography, especially for beginners. When using strobe lights, you can’t truly evaluate your lighting situation until they’re fired. Because of this, they often take more time to set up and adjust. (You need to keep taking photos of your subject and adjusting the lights until they’re right.)

    With continuous lights, you can see the lighting situation in real time, which helps you learn to see the best lighting situations and achieve your aesthetic goal. They generally emit an even stream of light onto your subject, allowing you to set them up once and then forget them.

    And many strobe lights need a moment to power up between shoots. Those few seconds could bethe difference between a perfect shot and a mediocre one. If you’re taking photos of a subject that might move around a lot such as children or pets, continuous lights may be the answer.

    Here are five photography tips to make using continuous lights easier and more effective.

    1. Get stronger lights

    Because of their design, continuous lights generally aren’t as powerful as strobe lights. To ensure you get a nice light source, opt for more powerful lights. I recommend an LED with at least 1000 bulbs. If it’s too strong, you can always dial it back. Better to have more than you need in these situations.

    2. Soften the light

    Tips for using continuous lights in your photography

    We want a soft light on our subject to avoid unwanted harsh shadows. Continuous lighting is no different. Use light modifiers to soften your light as much as possible, especially if you’re taking portraits. Whether you use softboxes or umbrellas is up to you. (I like using softboxes or scrims.)

    3. Check the color temperature

    Unlike most photography lights, some continuous lights let you change color temperature. In most cases you’ll want to make sure they’re set to daylight (around 5600k), which will give you the most natural look. Check your lights to make sure they’re set to the right color temperature.

    4. Turn off all other available lighting

    Because color temperature is so important, chances are the current lighting in the space will interfere and mix the color temperatures. Turn off all other light sources in the space to ensure the only light your camera is working with is the light you’ve provided.

    5. Use a three-point light system

    If you’re taking portrait, I suggest using a three-point light system, especially with continuous lights as they aren’t as powerful. The two front lights will be your key and fill, while the back light can serve as a hair light or be used to separate your subject from the background.

    Ready to Try Continuous Lights?

    I hope you consider using continuous lights next time you’re in the studio. The results may surprise you.

    The post 5 Tips for Using Continuous Lights in Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia

    As you advance with your photography, you may want to edit your photographs with more precise control. In this article, I discuss how to use Lumenzia Luminosity Masking Panel to easily edit sections of your image using Luminosity Masks in Adobe Photoshop.

    These masks allow you to control different aspects of your image without affecting others. You can manually create these luminosity masks, or you can use a product such as Lumenzia to make them for you automatically, as well as applying many commonly used adjustment layers in Adobe Photoshop.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 2

    Hoar Frost on a River Stone after Using Luminosity Masks

    Lumenzia is a luminosity masking panel that is an add-on application that works within Adobe Photoshop. It allows you to quickly create and efficiently use a wide range of luminosity masks for your image editing. To understand how Lumenzia works, because it is a little technical, you need to understand how Photoshop layers work.

    Lumenzia, in its most basic terms, is used within Adobe Photoshop to allow you to manipulate images with layer masks. For this article, all the references and images are for Lumenzia V6.0.  Lumenzia appears as a panel within Photoshop.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 3

    Lumenzia Panel

    Luminosity Masks

    Luminosity masks, also known as Luminescence masks, are a way of making advanced selections in Photoshop based on luminosity values. This method is particularly useful for images with a high dynamic range.

    For example, let’s say we are looking at the hoar frost ice ball image. It is a bright object on a dark background, where the exposure is likely to have been selected for the darker areas rather than the ice ball, making the ice ball more gray than white. The image is uneven because the white section (the ice ball) is underexposed. We could make a second exposure, this time exposing to account for the ice ball and then smoothly blend the area of the ice into the darker background.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 4

    Underexposed Original Hoar Frost Ice Ball

    There are many ways to make selections in Photoshop, but in this particular example, Luminosity Masks would allow us to select the over-exposed area because it targets luminosity values (i.e., the brightness of an area), and smoothly blend in the darker exposure. The image below shows the luminosity histogram for this image.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 5

    Ice ball histogram

    Luminosity masks are incredibly powerful because you can manipulate specific parts of your image. As with all masks, the key to remember is that white reveals and black conceals. There are multiple uses for these types of masks including fine-tuning images, highlight recovery, HDR images, black and white imagery, and general masking uses.

    Lumenzia is an add-on product for Photoshop CC that allows for the automation of using Luminosity Masks. The limits of what you use this tool for is related to your imagination and how far you want to manipulate images.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 6

    Bonavista Harbour at Night – High Dynamic Range

    What is a Luminosity Mask?

    In general, there are two fundamental characteristics of the data contained in the photographic information in digital form: Chromatic (color, hue, and tint) and Luminosity (brightness). Luminosity masks focus on using the brightness of the information contained in the image data to allow you to manipulate portions of the image selectively.

    There are some other great articles on dPS regarding Luminosity Masks. This being a fairly advanced concept, understanding how layers work in Photoshop is vital, or you may not understand much of this article.

    Why use Luminosity Masks?

    In times past and to this day, many photographers use techniques such as a white seamless background behind a portrait subject to allow for the background to be changed in post-production. Some other photographers use color to allow the background to replaced.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 7

    Cute Puppy on White Seamless Background

    The distinction between the two backgrounds is that the white background has different luminosity levels, making it easier to mask out the background manually. Colored backgrounds can create problems due to the color of the clothing worn and color from the background affecting the edges of the subject in the foreground. The lighting on the subject can also affect this. The colored background is a chromatic mask rather than a luminosity mask. Luminosity masks are used to solve this issue.

    Again, layer masks always work on the premise that white reveals and black conceals.

    Let’s look at three masks for the Ice Ball image:

    • ‘Lights’ (L2) Mask (just from the high end)
    • ‘Mid-tone’ Mask (just from the middle)
    • ‘Darks’ mask (just from the darker end)

    It’s the same image using the different masks. By using these masks, you can modify the image in those specific areas. The white areas are the selected areas of the histogram and the further you get from the selection, the darker the mask is. For the ‘Highlights,’ only the light values are white. For the ‘Mid-tone’ selection, only the mid-range values are white, making the highlights dark as well as the dark range. Finally, the ‘Darks’ selection shows the dark range in white.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 8

    Lights 2 Mask

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 8

    Mids 2 Mask

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 9

    Darks 2 Mask

    How do you create Luminosity masks?

    There are three ways to create luminosity masks. Firstly, you could create your own (time-consuming) and then automate this process. Secondly, you could purchase Lightroom or Photoshop presets that have someone else create an automated process for you. The third way is an add-in product that works within Photoshop. Lumenzia is an add-in product that works well.

    There are two issues with the first two methods of generating Luminosity Masks; the time it takes to set up and automate them and the size of the files that have them applied with layer masks. Using presets or actions to generate Layer Masks can significantly increase the size of the files within Photoshop because each layer is effectively an image. This process takes up hard drive space and can place extra processing power on your computer.

    Lumenzia uses Vector Masks instead of Layer Masks to rapidly create the Luminosity Masks. It allows for the rapid manipulation of images and discarding of masks is easy. All while keeping the image size smaller and more flexible.

    How does Lumenzia work?

    Lumenzia is an exciting product on its own as it allows you to efficiently control and automate many tasks related to Luminosity Masks. It integrates into Photoshop CC as a panel with simple button commands – many of which have instructions as you hover over them.

    It is a powerful tool, and while the initial concepts are simple, the learning curve for using the product efficiently may be steep for some. Luckily, there are also integrated video tutorials that are launched from within Photoshop directly from the panel (you require an internet connection for these to function). The purpose of this review is to give you a bit of an overview of how it works so you can see if it’s right for you.

    The Lumenzia Panel

    The majority of the panel shows the selections of the luminosity ranges you need – once you understand how to select the various luminosity levels. To illustrate, consider a standard histogram for an image.

    The RGB histogram shows the distribution of all the luminosity levels from pure black on the far left and pure white on the far right. The Lumenzia panel is divided up into sections. The top portion of the panel is the luminosity mask selection and preview area that allows you to see what you have selected.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 10

    Selection Portion of Lumenzia Panel

    This top section divides up the luminosity ranges based on the ranges you are looking to use. Visually, the buttons give you a clear idea of the luminosity range that the buttons select. The buttons can be combined and inverted.

    Once you press a selected range, a temporary selection appears and the layer buttons show.

    Look at the luminosity histogram and notice the buttons visually show (on the same horizontal line) an approximate distribution of the luminescence values being selected.

    The line of numbers (0-10), just above the bottom, is the zone values that Ansel Adams made famous as part of his processing technique.

    Once you select a range, a preview appears with a set of orange tabs. These are just temporary to show you how the mask looks.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 12

    Orange Preview Tabs

    The second section is the ‘Apply Panel.’ This panel allows you to use the mask on a common set of adjustment layer commands within Photoshop, such as curves, levels, contrast, brightness, HSL, and selective color. It applies the masks you have selected by creating an adjustment layer with the layer controls set up from the mask. The properties of the adjustment layer can then be modified.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 13

    Lumenzia Apply Panel

    The third section is the ‘Refine Panel’ for refining the mask you have selected. It allows you to group and combine your selections as well as work with edge refinement. This section of the Lumenzia panel is suited for more advanced users.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 14

    Refine Panel

    Conclusion

    Once you get familiar with Lumenzia, creating adjustment layers that work on your images with precision is fantastic. The online tutorials provide a wide array of examples of how to control all aspects of your images. The panels mentioned come with the full add-in program ($ 39.99 US), but there is also a basic free panel that helps you get a feel for how it works. The Lumenzia website can be found here.

    Using Lumenzia to control your images can help you produce dynamic results for your images.  Happy processing!

    Have you tried Lumenzia? What results have you had with it? Please share with us in the comments below.

    Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia 15

    Wansford Bridge

     

    The post Making Photoshop Luminosity Masks Easy with Lumenzia appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

    A tripod is an essential piece of equipment for a landscape photographer. Sure, you won’t always need to use it. But you’ll find yourself in situations where it can help you capture a high-quality image you wouldn’t be able to get otherwise.

    But how do you choose the right tripod? There are hundreds (if not thousands) of options out there, with prices ranging from $ 10 to more than $ 1,000. How do you know which one will best suit your needs? Should you just go for the most expensive tripod you can find? It must be the best, right?

    Not necessarily.

    Why You Need a Tripod

    Before we get into the best options for you, I want to go over a few key reasons why you need a tripod.

    Tripods are essential for capturing razor-sharp images, especially in low-light situations where you want to keep your ISO low.

    While increasing the ISO lets you use a quicker shutter speed, it can introduce unwanted grain/noise and reduce the overall quality of your image. But keeping the ISO low means you’ll need a longer shutter speed. (Yes, you can adjust the aperture. But I won’t be talking about that here).

    Capturing a sharp image using a shutter speed of 1/10th of a second or slower with a handheld camera is almost impossible. It’s very difficult to avoid any camera movement which, with such a slow shutter speed, means you’ll introduce some blur into the image.

    How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

    Mounting the camera on a tripod lets you use slower shutter speeds and still capture sharp images. The camera sits still on the tripod, so you don’t have to worry about the motion of you holding it.

    Using a tripod also allows you to use even slower shutter speeds and capture long exposures (i.e. images that make use of extra slow shutter speeds).

    What to Consider Before Buying a Tripod

    The first tripods I bought were cheap $ 20 aluminum models from the local electronic shop. While most photographers start with such a tripod, I strongly advise you not to buy one. For landscape photography, they simply won’t do a good job. In some situations, they may even do more harm than goods. These also break more easily than something of a higher quality.

    So what should you consider before purchasing your next tripod? Here are a few things to keep in mind:

    • Price and quality (i.e. what does your budget allow?)
    • Flexibility
    • Weight (aluminum vs carbon)

    Taking these topics into account before you buy will make it easier to find the best one for your needs.

    1. Price

    The first thing most of us consider is the price. Photography equipment is rarely cheap, and if you want quality you need to pay for it. As I said earlier, a tripod can cost you anything from $ 10 to several thousand. But are more expensive tripods necessarily better?

    In general, yes. A $ 1,000 tripod will outperform a $ 200 tripod in most tests. But that doesn’t mean it’s the right one for you. Ask yourself what you need. What type of photography do you do? Do you need the most expensive model? For most people, the answer is no.

    Chances are a mid-range ($ 200) tripod will be more than adequate and perform perfectly in most scenarios.

    2. Flexibility / Height

    What about the specs? Should you choose a short one or a tall one? Can the legs spread wide, or are they locked into a fixed position? Flip-lock or twist-lock?

    Let’s start with the height. In most situations, you won’t need a tall tripod. But there may well come a time where you need that extra leg length. Is it worth paying extra for? If you often find yourself in rivers, rocks or rugged seascapes, then yes. But if you’re not into extreme landscape photography and mount your tripod on flat and stable ground instead, I wouldn’t bother.

    While a tall tripod is nice, it’s also nice to have one that lets you get close to the ground. For this image, the tripod held my camera just a few centimeters off the ground, which allowed me to get extra close to the flowers.

    How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

    So what’s more important to you? Having a tall tripod, or being able to take photographs from a low perspective?

    The good news is that some of the more expensive tripods can give you both. While they can stand close to two meters tall, they can also lay more or less flat on the ground for those extremely low perspective shots. 

    3. Weight

    The final thing to consider is the tripod’s weight. This is important, especially if you head out on long hikes to reach particular destinations. Your backpack can get quite heavy once you add all the gear you need, so the last thing you want is unnecessary weight from a tripod.

    Now, a lightweight tripod doesn’t necessarily mean a low-quality tripod. In fact, some of the best tripods out there are lightweight. You just need to make sure they’re sturdy and can support the weight of your camera. However, these tripods are rarely cheap and are often found in the higher end of the price range.

    If you’re an avid hiker and tend to go a long way to photograph your subjects, I strongly recommend looking into a lightweight carbon-fiber tripod. These tripods are just as sturdy (if not more sturdy) than the heavier aluminum alternatives.

    How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

    But if you’re not into hiking, weight might not be such an issue. In fact, if you photograph in rough conditions you may prefer the extra weight. When photographing beaches in Arctic Norway I depend on having a sturdy tripod that won’t break when hit by waves or move when the waves are receding. In these situations, a low-quality travel tripod is far from ideal. Even strong winds can make these tripods vibrate, leading to blurry images. A heavy and solid tripod is a much better option.

    What types of landscapes do you normally photograph? And what do you need to capture those scenes?

    Which Tripod is Best for You?

    Unfortunately, I can’t answer this question for you. It really depends on who you are and the kinds of photographs you take. But when you’re ready to buy one, consider what I’ve talked about and ask yourself what you need. Do you need a light tripod you can easily bring on long hikes? Do you need a sturdy tripod that can handle wind and rough conditions? Perhaps you need a combination of the two.

    And what about the price? Do you really need the most expensive model, or will a medium-priced alternative do the job?

    Answering these questions should help you narrow down the options, and help you find the tripod that is best for you.

    Personally, I have two tripods: a lightweight travel tripod I can bring on long hikes, and my main tripod that’s a little heavier (and more expensive) but solid enough to use in even the roughest Arctic conditions.

    Let us know what tripod you ended up choosing. We’d love to hear about it.

    The post How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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