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Why You Should Always Have a Client Pre-Consultation

14 Jan

The post Why You Should Always Have a Client Pre-Consultation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

Mimi Thian

Any time you have a client paying you for a certain type of photography, it is essential to get all of the details laid out before any real planning or photography happens. Getting all of this squared away beforehand can make the whole process go quicker. Everyone stays satisfied, and all involved know what to expect for the final result.

What is a client pre-consultation?

A client pre-consultation is where you and your client meet to talk about the details of the session or project. You can meet at your studio, a coffee shop, or the client’s home or place of business.

Whether it’s a portrait client, a model, a commercial project, or a personal project that involves more people, a pre-consultation is important because you’re able to settle lots of questions and details that will make the session go smoothly.

A client pre-consultation can also take place via a video conference service like Skype or Facetime. The point is to get in front of your client and talk about your project or session.

Choose a location or method where you can give your undivided attention to your client. Having distractions or being in a place that isn’t suitable for a meeting can often keep you from staying focused on the details.

For example, a coffee shop may seem like the best choice, however, choose a spot within the place that is secluded and quiet. Choosing a very popular or loud location can make it difficult to talk or hear each other.

Be prepared for each type of pre-consultation

Even though you need a pre-consultation for all photography sessions or projects, preparing yourself for each with the right questions and information can help you to have a more focused pre-consultation.

Wedding pre-consultation

Even though the process of weddings tends to be the same, each wedding is unique. That is why pre-consultations are really important, especially if the pre-consultation happens before the couple books you for the event.

Meeting with the couple before the wedding can help them to determine the days’ timeline in terms of photography.

Prepare your contract with a cover sheet that you can fill in with all the important details. For example, names of the couple, date of the event, details of the ceremony and reception location, number of bridesmaids, start times for important events, and any other notes that relate to the event.

Have another sheet or notebook prepared for essential notes during the meeting. As much as we’d love to have photographic memories, the truth is, when we meet people for the first time, we can get lost in conversations and forget small but imperative details. So a meetings sheet can help you write down anything you think is important without having to write it on the contract.

Write down anything. From the color scheme, types of flowers they are having, first dance song, how they met, through to the more important details like the photography style they like and if they want a second photographer.

All of these details are equally important to the bride and groom, and so they should be important to you as well. For example, it can help you on the day of the event to remember that the flowers they chose are in remembrance of a passed grandmother.

Leave time for the couple to ask you any questions that they may have. It doesn’t matter if their questions or concerns are a bit unrealistic. Settling any doubt in a friendly way can mean the difference between them choosing you or another potential photographer they may be meeting.

Also be prepared to showcase your work with your clients at the time of the meeting. Take a portfolio, albums, prints, a laptop with your website and galleries open. Sometimes, clients contact photographers by referral without really checking out their work. So, this meeting is a great way to have them fall in love with your work. Taking albums can also open the door to upsell and add products to the wedding coverage.

These are items you should bring with you to every pre-wedding consultation:

  • Portfolio, laptop, slideshow to show your clients
  • Albums and products you wish to upsell your clients
  • Contract and info sheet
  • Meetings sheet or notebook to write down extra information about the wedding
  • Copy of your collections pricing as well as a product price sheet
  • The contract for clients to view terms and conditions

Remember that you are the professional and the couple is coming to you not only to meet you but to get as much information about photography, the wedding process, and any additional advice that could benefit them. Your expertise will always be appreciated, and your friendly attitude can get the wedding on your calendar.

Portrait sessions of any kind

For portrait sessions, you may think that a pre-consultation is a bit much. However, once you do have a pre-consultation you will be happy you did. Each portrait session, be it a family session, senior session, or individual are all unique and important.

Here a face-to-face meeting may not be as necessary and can sometimes be done through email or messages. However, it might become a long drawn out process if you do it that way. If possible, have a face-to-face meeting with your client – whether physically face-to-face or via a video conference service.

Things to go over during the meeting:

  • Location and ideal time for the session
  • Wardrobe ideas and what would fit the concept of the session
  • How many people are attending the session
  • If children are present, their ages so you can prepare ahead of time
  • The style of photography they like, candid, posed, a mixture

During the client pre-consultation, it’s also important to have a portrait contract and a list of prices for your packages. That way, you can go over the pricing and what each package includes from the start.

Doing this gives your client the opportunity to ask any questions regarding the session beforehand avoiding any miscommunication or misunderstandings after the session has been completed.

Commercial or editorial projects

Commercial/editorial projects usually require quick execution and only allow a limited amount of time for you to photograph the concept. Depending on what your client is hoping to have as a result, you may have to have more than one pre-consultation especially if it is a new client.

Meeting with the whole team can also help the project go off with fewer setbacks. Everyone will be on the same page as far as concept, lighting, location, and all of the essential details of the project.

A pre-consultation is also a great time to go over the payment details of the project. The pricing and payment schedule is vastly different from portraits or weddings. Here, the circulation count should get discussed. Circulation covers how often the client runs your photographs in their marketing, advertising, or promotional material.

Also, discuss copyright and licensing during the meeting. You may want to be able to showcase the photographs in your portfolio, or sometimes, the client wants exclusive rights. Go over model releases and contracts during this time as well.

For these types of projects, the more questions you ask to get a clearly defined idea of the project can help you to get a better estimate for your work. The more information you get, the better.

In Conclusion

Pre-consultations are very important in all types of photography projects where you are dealing with a client who is paying you for your services. These meetings help you get a clear idea of what your client is looking for and what they are expecting to receive as their final product.

It can eliminate any doubts, answer questions, and help your client with your advice and expertise so that the project happens without any setbacks.

The post Why You Should Always Have a Client Pre-Consultation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


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Fujifilm X-T3 versus Fujifilm X-H1: The Best Mirrorless Camera for You?

14 Jan

The post Fujifilm X-T3 versus Fujifilm X-H1: The Best Mirrorless Camera for You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

Fujifilm was on a roll this year releasing a slew of gear including two very popular mirrorless cameras: the Fujifilm X-H1 and Fujifilm X-T3. Released a mere 7 months apart, these two cameras have amateurs and professionals alike wondering which is better suited for their needs.

Key Specs

Fujifilm X-H1 vs X-T3

Fujifilm X-T3

One of Fujifilm’s most popular cameras to date has been the X-T2, so it’s no surprise that many loyalists to the X-T line were awaiting the third generation. The Fujifilm X-T3 is the newest Fuji camera to date, using a brand new sensor and processor. As a result, it has quite a few advantages over all other Fujifilm cameras, including boosted battery life. It continues to enhance photography features with its larger sensor resolution (8% more pixels), 100 more focus points, faster continuous shooting (6 fps faster), and the inclusion of a flash sync port. Fujifilm also added a slew of video features such as 4K60p, higher bit rate (400mbps), and a headphone port. All in all, the X-T3 is made to entice today’s hybrid photo and video shooters.

  • Announced: September 2018
  • Fujifilm X-Mount
  • Comes in black or silver
  • 26MP – APS-C BSI-CMOS Sensor
  • No Anti-aliasing (AA) filter
  • ISO 160 – 12800
  • 3.2 Tilting Screen
  • 3690k dot Electronic viewfinder
  • 20.0 fps continuous shooting
  • 4096 x 2160 video resolution
  • Built-in Wireless
  • 539g. 133 x 93 x 59 mm
  • Weather Sealed Body

Fujifilm X-H1 vs X-T3

Fujifilm X-H1

Brand new to the Fujifilm X-Series lineup is the X-H1. It is the first X-Series camera to have in-body image stabilization (IBIS), which is essential for shooting more stable handheld video and lowlight photos. This is the main advantage that the X-H1 has over the X-T3.

  • Announced in February 2018
  • Fujifilm X-Mount
  • 24MP – APS-C CMOS Sensor
  • No Anti-aliasing (AA) filter
  • ISO 200 – 12800
  • Sensor-shift Image Stabilization
  • 3 Tilting Screen
  • 3690k dot Electronic viewfinder
  • 14.0 fps continuous shooting
  • 4096 x 2160 video resolution
  • Built-in Wireless
  • 673g. 140 x 97 x 86 mm
  • Weather Sealed Body

3 reasons to pick the X-H1 over the X-T3

1. Built-In Image Stabilization (IBIS)

As mentioned above, the X-H1 is the only Fujifilm camera to offer in-body stabilization. This means that even your lenses without Optical Image Stabilization (OIS) will be stabilized by the camera. With that said, if you use an OIS lens on the X-T3, you can still get a degree of stabilization even without IBIS.

2. Top LCD

The X-H1 physically resembles DSLRs in several ways, namely via its top LCD. This can be helpful for viewing and changing settings in the dark, and also for seeing your battery levels without turning the camera on.

Fujifilm X-H1 vs X-T3

3. Larger overall footprint.

Overall, the X-H1 is physically larger than the X-T3 and is closer in looks to the Fujifilm GFX camera line. The X-H1 is about 134 grams heavier and has a noticeably larger right-hand grip. While many people purchase mirrorless cameras with the idea of having a smaller, more compact camera, you may prefer the X-H1’s larger size if you have big hands or tend to use Fujifilm’s large red badge lenses.

4 reasons to pick the X-T3 over the X-H1

1. Enhanced Autofocus

Fujifilm made significant autofocus improvements to the X-T3, now offering 425 hybrid autofocus points. That’s 100 more autofocus points than both the X-T2 and the X-H1. Additionally, both face and eye detect have been enhanced and they are much more responsive and accurate on the X-T3 than on previous Fujifilm cameras. I will say, however, that Sony still leads the pack in terms of face and eye detect in particular.

Fujifilm X-H1 vs X-T3

2. Faster continuous shooting

The X-T3 also ups the ante in continuous shooting. Now able to shoot 11 frames-per-second (fps) with the mechanical shutter, 20 fps with the electronic shutter, and 30 fps in 1.25x crop mode with the electronic shutter. In comparison, the X-H1 also shoots 11 fps mechanical, but only 14 fps with electronic. If frames per second and continuous shooting are of importance to you, the X-T3 is your best bet.

3. Higher quality video settings

Despite the X-H1 being intended as Fujifilm’s video-oriented mirrorless camera, the X-T3 doesn’t skimp on video features. In fact, the X-T3 outperforms the X-H1 when it comes to bitrate (400mbps vs 200mbps), and its ability to shoot at 4K60p (compared to the X-H1’s 4K30p). Also, the X-T3 has a headphone jack to monitor audio–this is a feature you can only get on the X-H1 if you use the accompanying battery grip.

4. Lower price point

In addition to a new processor and sensor, the Fujifilm X-T3 also boasts a lower price point of $ 1499 versus $ 1899 for the camera body only. That’s a $ 400 difference that could be put towards a new lens or camera accessory.

Fujifilm X-H1 vs X-T3

Common ground – X-H1 and X-T3

Both the Fujifilm X-H1 and X-T3 have many features to make them viable competitors in today’s hot mirrorless camera market. Here’s what they have in common:

  • Wireless and Bluetooth connection
  • Smartphone camera control via an app
  • Articulating rear touchscreen LCD screens (but no selfie flip out screen)
  • Timelapse recording
  • 2 SD card slots
  • Ability to shoot in RAW and JPG (for stills) and f-log (for video)
  • Fujifilm’s famous film simulations, including the newest Eterna
  • Firmware updates that are actually helpful — Fujifilm is known for listening to its customer base and releasing significant firmware updates for cameras and lenses.

In Conclusion

As a newer camera with more photography and video features AND a lower price point, the Fujifilm X-T3 will probably be the camera of choice for most people. Even Fujifilm seems to have realized this as the X-H1 has dropped in price to be very competitive with the X-T3. However, if you’re a serious videographer who isn’t in a hurry to get a new camera, it is probably worth waiting to see what Fujifilm does with the next generation of the X-H1: the X-H2. Although nothing official about the X-H2 has been announced yet, Fujifilm is famous for taking customer feedback seriously and many Fuji enthusiasts believe the X-H2 will be the ultimate video camera. We’ll wait and see!

Video with sample images and footage

Most comparisons were done in video form, so please check out the video below to see X-H1 and X-T3 sample video and photos.

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The post Fujifilm X-T3 versus Fujifilm X-H1: The Best Mirrorless Camera for You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


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Tips on How to Take Better Instagram Photos

14 Jan

The post Tips on How to Take Better Instagram Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

Instagram is a visual platform with millions of images vying for your attention. Styling with Instagram in mind is key! But first, know what your purpose is.

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

Know your purpose

You may be reading this because you have an interest in photography. You probably know that there is an array of lenses you can use but each lens has a specialty or a purpose. For example, the 85mm is great for portraits, the 14mm or 24mm for landscapes, macro/micro lenses for extreme close-ups, fast lenses for sports etc. In the same way, think of a style as your specific lens for a particular purpose, the purpose being your chosen genre on Instagram.

Genres

Before I offer tips, let’s look at a few genres: Portraits, Wedding, Interiors, Products, Flat-lays, Landscapes. But, as in business, the more niche you are, the stronger your account will look. So don’t just stop at these genres, niche deeper. For example, Black and White Portraits, Beach Weddings, Handmade Ceramics, Moody Landscapes.

If you like, you can go further: Black and White Wedding Photography, Fine Art Newborn Portraits, Beach Elopement Weddings, Handmade Ceramic Tableware, Moody Forest Landscapes, Dark Maximalist Eclectic Interiors…

Instagram followers tend to like consistency in what they see on your squares so be sure to leverage that. The more consistent your work is, the more you appear as an expert in what you are showing. Instagram gurus say that you can post 10% of other things. Particularly, those things that pertain to your personal life, which your followers may find interesting. However, keep the 90% consistent with the purpose of your account.

With that preamble out of the way, here are my tips on how to take better photos on Instagram for your chosen genre/niche. These are all my opinions so take what you find useful and leave the rest.

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

1. Interiors

I have found, from running an interiors page myself layered.home with a daily growing following, that photos which are taken further back at wide angles do well. The interiors audience is generally more interested in seeing a wider view of an entire room.

Not only that, wider views shot from a slightly angular position do better than those taken from a straight-on frontal view. Be mindful of your lighting too. Light coming from a window or one side is more appealing to the eye compared to bright, flat lighting where everything is evenly illuminated. So whenever you take photos, just remember side lighting.

If the side opposite the light source is too dark, you may want to add a reflector or a piece of white card to take the edge off the darkness. Of course, this will work easily with smaller spaces or objects but for entire rooms would it be more difficult. You would need to add an extra light if using artificial light or open more windows.

So they can take pictures at any time of day, some interior accounts use daylight-balanced continuous lighting. You just need to position them so that they look natural like window light. Turn off all lights and use only one type of light source, preferably natural light (this is where a tripod comes in handy) in order to avoid mixed lighting.

But this isn’t to say you can’t break the rules!

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

2. Portraits

It is better, as mentioned above, to stick to one type or style of portrait. For example, if you are after a brightly lit image with a very airy feel to it with a dreamy backdrop, try and keep that feel going in all your images. Don’t go bright one post and dark and moody the next.

If you photograph headshots, make sure your squares show a lot of headshots rather than a mixture of full body, super-close-up, half-length etc. Again you can have this variation but keep it to a minimum.

With one look at your nine squares, a follower should be able to already have an idea of your style and what type of photography your page is about. This goes with styling clothes too. You could go with a vintage touch for example, or a color palette kept to a minimum (usually up to four colors work). Unless your feed is all about rainbow colors or candy colors and in which case make that your purpose.

It is also important that your editing is consistent like your color treatment and tones. Stick to color and the same type of editing. From time to time, you could sneak in a black and white or a series. But again, only at a minimum.

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

3. Product

When it comes to product photography, you want to show the products close-up so the viewer can see the features and benefits of the product. There are tools you can use such as a small white lightbox (also known as a light tent) to illuminate your product evenly.

This is essential if you are after a white seamless background enveloping your product. Or you can go for naturally lit dramatic lighting by using side window light only from a 45-degree angle and creating more dramatic light and dark tone going on. You can also use a dark backdrop with window lighting from the front to direct total focus on your product.

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

4. Flatlays

This birds-eye-view style has become very popular especially when using intentionally-styled products within a context or a story. Technically, this is somewhat tricky because you lose the angles afforded by other points of view. To counteract this loss, add contrast to make your product stand out.

You need the flat lay image to grab attention. A symmetrical composition usually works here, where the product is in the middle (as shown in the photo above – taken with an iPhone) rather than using the Rule of Thirds. You can always use other minor elements around your main product to strengthen your composition with some asymmetrical touches without stealing the limelight.

A couple of very important general tips!

dps-tips-for-instagram-photosThe photos above were taken with an iPhone

On editing: Please, please do NOT over edit

I often see this on some Instagram accounts and, to be honest, it makes me cringe. Over-edited images have a way of looking unnatural.

Look closely at the four photos above. The first photo is straight out of the phone camera. The second has very gentle editing applied. The blacks have been slightly enhanced to look richer, and the highlights have been reduced to balance the image. It may not be dramatic, but it is a real depiction of the space and the items within it.

The third photo has blown-out whites, so you can’t see any details. Half of the wallpaper is over-exposed and the sheepskin is bereft of details. You can’t even see the fairy lights on it. The third image is over-edited. Technically speaking, what was an okay image to start with has become a bad image.

The blacks are the ‘clipped’ on the 4th photo, which is also too dark. Clipping is a photography term that means the intensity falls out of the minimum or maximum range. You do not see any details. In this instance, the blacks reach a point where the shadows of the plant blend into the wall. The cushion also blends into the skin it’s sitting on, and the whites of the framed prints have become blue.

The key word in editing is “enhance,” not “kill.” Use just enough contrast or blacks otherwise your photos may look entirely out of this world, and that in the negative sense of the word. Be gentle when moving those contrast, structure, shadows and blacks sliders as they affect the dark areas. Avoid using the saturation slider. It is better to add warmth and vibrancy rather than touching that saturation slider which can make your colors join the neon spectrum.

Be careful when using filters. Don’t apply the filters at 100% strength. Play around with the sliders to see how the photo looks. Start at 50% and go from there on both ends. Filters should generally be used at about 35% to make your photos pop. This approximation is assuming the picture is an okay photo from the start.

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

White balance

Be mindful of color cast in your image. A color cast is a strong shift in the overall color of the image that usually comes from artificial light such as tungsten, which leaves a very yellow or orange cast. Similarly, fluorescent lighting which gives off a green cast especially on the areas of the photo that are meant to be white.

Looking at the photos above, which one do you think has good white balance? Where is the white still white and the fairy lights have a warm glow?

You want a white balance that looks natural. That is, where the whites look white, not yellow, pink, magenta or green. Neutral white with added warmth is good. It doesn’t need to be perfectly white – especially for Instagram posts – but at least it still looks white without unnatural color tints.

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

Carousel

Take advantage of the carousel where you can post more images. Use it to hide what you want to post and show but do not want to be the front cover of your post. Doing so still makes your squares look consistently strong. However, you can deviate from your style and purpose behind the front image using this feature. For example, with interiors, you can add close-ups of the space or photos of products featured within the space.

With portraits, you can add other angles and viewpoints. You can use the “before and after” concept where your front page is the after and the carousel holds all the before or work-in-progress pictures. This feature is great for adding more content and value to your page without weakening your Instagram brand.

dps-tips-for-instagram-photos

Instagram is a powerful visual social media platform. However, with millions of images competing against yours, it is vital that you use strong images to stop people on their scrolling tracks!

I hope you found some of these tips helpful to grow your Instagram account!

The post Tips on How to Take Better Instagram Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.


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How to Photograph Children Under Five with Little to No Meltdowns

13 Jan

The post How to Photograph Children Under Five with Little to No Meltdowns appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

Photographing children under five can be really challenging. However, the most effective photographers are the ones who know how to avoid meltdowns that lead to children shutting down or simply, not wanting to participate at all. Read on to learn tips on how to photograph children without meltdowns!

Pose children with parents closeby can give them comfort and confidence during the session.

Choose the best time for the children

The best way to avoid a meltdown with children from newborn to five years of age is to choose the best time during the day that works best for them. That’s right, we’re working on the child’s schedule rather than the parents or even your photography calendar. This is because some children may be more alert after a good nap and others may be in a better mood after breakfast.

Catering to the child’s already existing schedule avoids any disruptions or over-tiredness. Having the session as part of the day’s activities also gets them excited to explore and play.

Bring snacks and toys

There is nothing more cranky than a hungry child. This goes for any child age 6-months and older. Kids need a snack or drink of some kind often. If your session is going to last from 45 minutes to more than an hour, it’s a good idea to have snacks and drinks on hand. Allowing children to have a snack during the session can also serve to give them a boost in energy and get them back into the session.

Ask the parents to bring the kids favorite snack and drink to the session as well as a snack that could be considered a reward or treat. These rewards/treats can help use bribery in order to get some smiles or to avoid a meltdown in the middle of the session.

Having parents interact and play with children can help relax them enough to get smiles.

Take breaks often to give the children a chance to snack and drink some water or juice. Take advantage that they are occupied to focus on the older children or on the parents.

Toys are a great way to keep children entertained and you can get a lot of real and authentic expressions out of the child when they are playing with their favorite toy. Sometimes, toys can bring comfort to children and help them to feel more relaxed around new strangers. Also, toys offer a distraction when you are photographing other members of the family all while keeping the smaller children from a tantrum or getting too bored.

Advise parents to avoid saying “no”

This is probably the one tip that will raise a few eyebrows among your clients, but it is really important to keep in mind. Children hear the word “no” over a hundred times a day, and sometimes this can bring about defiant behavior. Avoiding saying no can really help the child to feel more relaxed during the session.

Letting children play and have fun can make the session run smoother.

Not using the word “no” also gives them the freedom to explore, jump, play, run, and yes, even get dirty during the session. Giving children who are under 5 a great experience is really important. They will remember how much fun they had with you and your camera. The next time they see you for another portrait session, they won’t be so afraid or shy.

Let them get it all out of their system and have fun. The more they see this as a fun activity, the more willing they’ll be to cooperate. Of course, all within reason! If something is dangerous then a proper no is okay. For everything else, it’s a banned word for the whole session time.

This also gives you the opportunity to dictate how to say no without actually saying the word. For example, instead of having the parents say “no, don’t climb the tree” where the child will see this as their parents nagging again, you now have the lead to say instead, “hey bud, let’s go over here and see if we can find some sticks, that tree looks like it could have some ants on it.”

This makes you seem like the friend and keeps the parents from using a negative tone during the session. All together giving the child the impression that they are there to have fun and play. Giving you better expressions and eventually, they will listen when you ask them to look at the camera and smile.

Try posing other than smiling at the camera

Most children under five don’t have the patience to stand still for very long and smile at the camera. The most you’ll get from children of this age group is 30 minutes, with bribes! The best way to get them to participate longer is to capture them doing what children do best: play.

Children in this age group are learning so quickly and love to apply what they’ve learned or can identify all the time. This means that if they are at a park, they’ll want to pick up a stick and play. Show their parents and then jump around poking the dirt.

Which means, posed photos may not be what you expect with children so young. In order to capture the whole family together, for instance, is to pose all other members of the family in a way that when you join the smaller children, they are in direct contact with mom or dad. Either in their arms, next to one or the other, or on their laps. Laughing and telling jokes can help them to stay in place long enough for some good photos.

Having the family walk holding hands is also a great way to get the children more involved. You want them to play and explore but you also want them to participate in the more posed family photos as well.

Don’t be afraid to reschedule if necessary

Sometimes, you will get a child who isn’t willing and has multiple meltdowns that were simply unavoidable. If this does occur, offer the family to reschedule the session for another date and time that best suits the child’s schedule and mood.

This is the great thing about portrait sessions as they can be re-done in order to best suit the child who perhaps wasn’t in the mood for photos that day. Reassure your client that rescheduling is the best option and that it is completely okay and happens with children.

Sometimes you won’t get smiles out of children but it’s important to try and get a good solid portrait of them anyway.

Make sure that you exhaust all of the options before deciding that a reschedule is necessary. Sometimes, a child might just need a quick snack break or a break in general. Focus on taking photos of the parents or the other siblings to give them a rest. If all else fails, rescheduling could be the best solution.

Sometimes children open up toward the end of the session. Like this little girl. On the left was at the beginning and on the right, she was smiling toward the end of the session.

If you can’t reschedule, try and get as much as you can from the child before they completely shut down. Work quickly and let the child know that you know they are tired, hungry, or don’t like photos but if they do well they can get a prize. Here, allow the parents to say whichever prize they want to offer. This can sometimes get a few last smiles and give you enough photos.

In conclusion

Children under five years of age aren’t always easy going and willing to take portraits, however, using these tips can help get the most out of them before they burn out. Try and follow their lead and make sure that they have a fun time at the session. This will help them to feel more comfortable the next time they are in front of your camera.

The post How to Photograph Children Under Five with Little to No Meltdowns appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


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Create Powerful Black and White Photos with the Photoshop Gradient Map

12 Jan

The post Create Powerful Black and White Photos with the Photoshop Gradient Map appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

In this article, you will learn how to use the Photoshop Gradient Map tool to transform your “meh” color images into incredible black and whites that go “WOW.”

When you think about it, a black and white photograph doesn’t make sense. No, really. At it’s most basic level, black and white photography presents us with a version of our world that we know is not accurate. The colors we normally see get shown to us in values of white, black and gray. We know a black and white photo isn’t true-to-life and yet a strong black and white photograph can transcend the sum of its parts. It can transport us to visual spaces which provoke emotions that even the brightest color photograph cannot achieve.

Even though a black and white picture is called “black and white” seldom are they merely tones of gray. A strong black and white image often present subtle color tones in the shadows, highlights, mid-tones or sometimes all three. Moreover, when it comes to concocting a black and white photo from a digital color image file, the way in which you approach your conversions can make or break the entire photograph.

However, not all methods are created equal. I’m about to show you one of the best ways I know to effectively convert and tone a photo to black and white. We’ll do this using a quiet little tool in Photoshop called the Gradient Map. When it comes to taking a digital black and white photograph from “meh” to “WOW” the Photoshop Gradient Map will be your best friend.

What is the Gradient Map?

The Photoshop Gradient Map is essentially just what it sounds like; a way for you to map out and control the color tones of different luminance values within your photo.

Toning with the gradient map can be shockingly simple (as with this lesson) or as delightfully complex as you choose to make your adjustments. Ok, enough talk, let’s get started. Let’s take a RAW color photo and begin the process of converting it to black and white, followed by toning it with the gradient map in Photoshop.

Begin with basics

To begin, I highly recommend you use a RAW image file. Doing so offers you the greatest amount of wiggle room to adjust the values within the photo after you convert it to black and white.

I’ve started with a photo opened in Lightroom to complete some basic edits. However, you can complete the entire process right inside of Photoshop. Preferably, converting the image to black and white and toning with the gradient map should be one of the last steps in the process. Of course, editing can take on a life of its own, so don’t hesitate to dynamically adjust your photo at any stage. Here we have the RAW file after some core edits in Lightroom.

You may be asking “why not just convert to black and white right now?” I don’t recommend converting the photograph to black and white before opening it in Photoshop. The reason for this is because it completely robs you of the vital color information that allows adjustments of the individual color luminance values.

Next, I’ll kick the image over to Photoshop….

Now the real fun begins! Come on…it really is fun.

Conversion and Toning with the Gradient Map

After you open your image in Photoshop, convert it to black and white. To achieve this, add a black and white adjustment layer.

Although it’s not necessary to do so, feel free to name this layer something specific. At this point, you can adjust the individual color luminance values to your liking. See, I told you there was a reason to hold off on converting until this step.

Now that you have a nicely converted black and white photograph you can jump into the toning process by adding a Gradient Map adjustment layer. Click on the Gradient Map icon just as we did with the black and white adjustment layer.

Doesn’t that look magical!

Kidding.

There are a couple of things we need to do after we select the Gradient Map. Depending on your default Photoshop settings, your view could appear slightly different than mine. Don’t worry, though, the steps are the same.

To select your gradient, click on the gradient drop down:

Then click the Settings Wheel to open up your toning options and make sure that Photographic Toning is selected.

You’ll be prompted to confirm you want to change to a new gradient. Click OK because you absolutely do.

Each of those little boxes represents a color gradient scheme you can select to tone your image. Think of these as gradient presets. For this photo, I’m going with an old favorite of mine, Platinum.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and find the flavor that you like for your photo. Remember, everything here is non-destructive so simply click the “undo” button at the bottom of the gradient map window to start over.

At this point, we are nearly finished with the bulk of our toning using the gradient map! Yes, it is that easy. However, before we go, I want to show you how to customize the gradient should you choose to do so. A gradient map adds color across the tonal values of your image. You can control just how it applies this by clicking the gradient (and even create new ones). Doing so opens up the gradient adjustment panel.

From this panel, we can adjust the individual values of the gradient to change color density and contrast. There are limitless combinations and color schemes available. So again, allow yourself to tinker, tweak, test and otherwise go completely wild with your gradients to see how they affect your photo. I’m not joking; the possibilities are endless. Didn’t I tell you this was fun?

Last but not least, you can also adjust the layer blend mode and opacity of the gradient layer in the Layers Panel. Play with the percentage levels until you get the effect right.

Now you can further adjust your photo right here in Photoshop, or back in Lightroom. Or, if you are finished, you can save and export.

Final thoughts on Gradient Maps and Black and White

With just a few simple layers in Photoshop, we went from this…

to this…

to finally this…

Black and white photos are more than…well, just black and white. Think of some of your favorite black and white images. Are they merely two colors or are they something more? Whether it be film or digital, most “black and white” images that move us possess color tones that create a sense of mode or aesthetic comfort that touches us on a creative and emotional level. Using the Photoshop Gradient Map to tone your black and white photos is one of the easiest and most effective ways to create advanced black and white’s that stand out. Once you begin making use of the Photoshop Gradient Map, you may wonder how you ever managed without it in the first place!

Do you use the Photoshop Gradient Map? Share with us some of your images below.

 

The post Create Powerful Black and White Photos with the Photoshop Gradient Map appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits [video]

12 Jan

The post How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this week’s video from COOPH Master Chrissie White, you’ll learn how to use five lighting scenarios to create expert studio portraits.

Here are the 5 tips:

1. Natural Light and Reflector

Place your model next to window and place reflector on the opposite side of the face to create balanced light. For even light, shoot when the light isn’t coming directly through the window.

2. Side lighting

Side lighting creates a moody atmosphere for your image.

Place one light on to one side of the model and black card on the opposite side. This casts a shadow on one side of your models face so the light is split down the middle. if you don’t want it too moody, place a white card on the opposite side instead. That way the models face won’t be in complete shadow.

3. Butterfly lighting

Butterfly Lighting is commonly used for beauty lighting. It is an even light on the model. Place the light in front of the model and above them. You can also use a reflector underneath their face to even out the light.

4. Split lighting

This lighting is dramatic and flashy. Great for shooting athletes and fashion models. Place 2 lights approx 45 degrees behind the model. To soften and make less dramatic, add a butterfly light to the front of the model.

5. Backlighting

Place your light source behind the model to create a hair or rim light. Place another light in front of model or a white card to add some fill to remove the shadow from the face.

Add colored gels to the light to add color and drama. Use cellophane or gels. Be careful of hot lights though.

TIP: Look in the eyes of models for ‘catch-lights’ to see what type of lighting a photographer used.

 

You may also find these articles helpful:

One Speedlight Portrait Lighting Tutorial

6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Evey Photographer Should Know

10 Ways to take Stunning Portraits

How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits

Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash

How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut

 

 

The post How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Light Trails

12 Jan

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Light Trails appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is light trails!

Tree Top Circus © Caz Nowaczyk

Your photos can include light trails from vehicles, light painting, or any other moving light source. Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Some Inst-piration from some Instagrammers:

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Johan Weesie (@jowie_pictures) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Carlos Bolivar (@photo_charles) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Om Prakash Sethia (@om_prakash_sethia) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by RECYCLED PHOTOS (@recycleartz) on

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Phutter Blog (@phutterblog) on

 

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting Light Trails

How to do Long Exposure Photography and Light Trails at Night

Stacking Light Trails for Night Photography Special Effects

How to Create Dynamic Photos of Car Light Trails

How to Photograph Light Trails from the Back Seat of a Car

7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

How to do Light Painting and Illuminate Your Photography

Long Exposure Photography 101 – How to Create the Shot

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – Light Trails

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

 

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSLighttrails to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

 

Feature Photo by Alen Rojnic on Unsplash

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How to Customize Your Lightroom Workspace for Better Workflow

11 Jan

The post How to Customize Your Lightroom Workspace for Better Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

Although it is sometimes overshadowed by its powerful cousin Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom is a robust post-processing program in its own right.

Lightroom is designed with simplicity in mind, however, it still offers a lot of options and can be confusing to new users.

This article assumes you have a basic familiarity with the appearance of the various panels in the Lightroom, and gives you some tips on how to customize your Lightroom workspace for better workflow and productivity.

Lightroom Workspace in Grid View-Darina Kopcok-DPS

The Lightroom Workspace in Grid View

Modules

Lightroom is organized into seven Modules: Library, Develop, Map, Book, Slideshow, Print, and Web.

You can find these modules in the uppermost right-hand corner of your screen. This panel or bar is called the Module Picker.

Customize Lightroom Workspace-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Each of these modules contains a set of tools that work specifically within that module.

For example, if you want to design and print contact sheets of select images from a shoot, you would navigate to the Print module, where you would find the required tools to do that.

You will find, however, that there are some modules that you rarely (or even never) use.

Most users of Lightroom spend the majority of their time in the Library and Develop Modules. Therefore, Lightroom gives you the option to hide these modules from view if you wish.

To set up which modules you would like to remain visible, right click on the module panel to bring up a pop-up menu:

Module Panels in Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

The panels that are visible are noted with a checkmark. To make the module invisible, simply click on it to uncheck it in the menu.

For example, I never use the Book and Slideshow modules, so I have those checked off in my own Lightroom workspace.

The missing modules are still available under the Window menu; you can use keyboard shortcuts to open them.

Keep in mind that if you do this, Lightroom will automatically add the missing module back to the Module Picker.

Window View Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

Panels

Lightroom Panels-Darina Kopcok-DPS

In the above image, the following are noted:

A. Library Filter bar
B. Image Display area
C. Identity Plate area
D. Panels displaying photos
E. Filmstrip
F. Module Picker
G. Panels for working with metadata, keywords, adjustments
H. Toolbar

There are four panels in each of the Lightroom Modules. Only two panels – the Module panel and Filmstrip panel – appear in all of the different modules in Lightroom.

For example, the Library module has a top Module Panel, the Navigation panel is located on the left-hand side. The right-side panel is mostly for Metadata, while the bottom panel is where the Filmstrip appears.

Develop Module has Develop and Preset panels instead of Navigation and Metadata.

Tabs are small panels inside of panels.

Below are the various tabs in the Develop panel in the Develop Module in Lightroom:

Tabs in Develop Module Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

You can customize your workspace to display only the panels you want.

  • To open or close all the panels in a group, hit -> Command-click (Mac) or Ctrl-click(Windows).
  • To open or close one panel at a time, simply Option-click (Mac) or Alt-click (Windows) on the panel header.
  • To show or hide both side panel groups choose Window ->Panel -> Toggle Side Panels, or press the Tab key.
  • To hide all of the panels, including the side panels, the Module Picker and the Filmstrip, choose Window -> Panels -> Toggle All Panels, or press Shift-Tab.

Lightroom Panels-Darina Kopcok-DPS

If you don’t use a panel often, you can hide it form view: Control-Click (Mac) or Right-Click (Windows) on any panel header in the group and choose the panel name.

Change the Screen Mode

You can also change the screen display to hide the title bar, menus, and panels.

Choose -> Window -> Screen Mode, and choose an option from the drop-down menu.

Full Screen Mode Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

When in Normal, Full Screen with Menubar, or Full Screen Mode, press the F key to cycle through them.

If you’re on a Mac OS, note that Full Screen mode and Full Screen and Hide Panels mode both hide the Dock. If you don’t see the Minimize, Maximize, or Close buttons for the application, press the F key once or twice until they appear.

Press Shift-Tab and then the F key to display the panels and menu bar.

  • Command+Option+F (Mac) or Ctrl+Alt+F (Windows) to switch to Normal screen mode from Full Screen with Menubar or Full Screen Mode.
  • Shift+Command+F (Mac) or Shift-Ctrl+F (Windows) hides the title bar, menus, and panels.

To dim or hide the Lightroom Classic CC workspace, choose -> Window then -> Lights Out, then choose an option. Press the F key to cycle through the options.

Identity Plate

You can brand your Lightroom with the logo of your photography business through the Identity Plate Setup.

It’s not going to impact your workflow in any way, but this is a cool customization you can make to appear more professional when working with clients and utilizing tethered capture.

Identity Plate Editor in Lightroom-Darina Kopcok-DPS

To access the Identity Plate Setup click on a Mac -> Lightroom and choose -> Identity Plate Setup from the drop-down menu. For Windows, go to -> Edit and choose -> Identity Plate Setup.

Under Identity Plate, choose -> Personalized and Custom.

Click on -> Use a Graphical Identity Plate and then -> Locate File to navigate to wherever you have your logo saved on your computer.

However, if you don’t have a logo, you can still customize the text that appears in Identity Plate by changing the font, size of the font, and the color of the module names.

To sum up

A customized workspace can help you improve your workflow and therefore efficiency when working in Lightroom.

Hopefully, some of these tips will help you navigate Lightroom a bit more easily and has given you some ideas on setting up the interface in the way that works for you.

The post How to Customize Your Lightroom Workspace for Better Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


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9 Pioneering Women Who Shaped Photographic History

11 Jan

The post 9 Pioneering Women Who Shaped Photographic History appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

The history of women photographers dates back to the beginnings of photography itself. Yet while names like Ansel Adams and Man Ray have floated to the top of the photographic vernacular, the contribution of women in photography has been diluted or erased from history altogether. In this, photography is no less guilty than other forms of art. Yet there is no doubt that the omission of women, both unintentionally and intentionally, leaves a gaping hole in the narrative of photography.

In this article, I turn the spotlight on women who shaped photographic history. These 9 women (and many more) asserted their presence through both technical and artistic ingenuity. Here is a brief recount of their stories.

Julia Margaret Cameron (1815 – 1879)

A portrait by Julia Margaret Cameron. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

Julia Margaret Cameron received her first camera as a gift from her daughter in 1863. Cameron threw herself into photography, crafting portraits and staged scenes inspired by literature, mythology, and religion.

Cameron rejected the meticulous photo-reality sought after by her contemporaries. Instead, she favored a dreamlike softness saying “…when focusing and coming to something which, to my eye, was very beautiful, I stopped there instead of screwing on the lens to the more definite focus which all other photographers insist upon.”

The revolving door of luminaries in Cameron’s home provided her with ample opportunity to produce piercing character studies of some of the most famous people of the period. Her portraits represented some of the earliest examples of art meeting formal practice.

Cameron was a prolific photographer. Over 16 years, Cameron created more than 1,200 images – a staggering amount considering the laborious process involved to create each finished piece.

Mary Steen (1856 – 1939)

Mary Steen excelled at indoor photography. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

Mary Steen was a photographer and feminist from Denmark, Scandinavia. She excelled at indoor photography, a particularly difficult field due to the lack of electrically powered light sources available at the time.

In 1888, Stern became Denmark’s first female court photographer, a role that involved photographing both Danish and British royals. In 1891, she became the first woman on the board of the Danish Photographic Society.

Steen was also a member of the Board of Directors for the Danish Women’s Society. Together with Julie Laurberg, she photographed leading figures in the Danish women’s movement. In 1896, Steen started working as a photographer to Alexandra, Princess of Wales, the later Queen of England.

Steen encouraged other women to take up photography. She campaigned for better conditions at work, including eight day’s holiday and a half day off on Sundays. Leading by example, she treated her staff well, paying them fair wages.

Imogen Cunningham (1883 – 1976)

“Succulent” by Imogen Cunningham. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

Known for her botanical, nude and industrial photography, Imogen Cunningham was one of America’s first professional female photographers.

After studying photographic chemistry at university, Cunningham opened a studio in Seattle. Cunningham drew acclaim for her portraiture and pictorial work. Subsequently, she invited other women to join her, publishing an article in 1913 called “Photography as a Profession for Women.”

Cunningham never confined herself to a single genre or style of photography. In 1915 Cunningham’s then-husband, Roi Partridge posed for a series of nude photographs. The nudes achieved critical appraise, despite being a taboo subject for a female artist at the time.

A two-year study of botanical subjects resulted in Cunningham’s opulently lit magnolia flower. She also turned her lens toward industry and fashion.

It was Cunningham who said “which of my photographs is my favorite? The one I’m going to take tomorrow.”

Gertrude Fehr (1895 – 1996)

An example of solarization, a darkroom technique used by the New Photography movement in Paris that can now be emulated in Photoshop

After studying at the Bavarian School of Photography, Gertrude Fehr apprenticed with Edward Wasow. In 1918, Fehr opened a studio for portraiture and theater photography.

During 1933, the political climate forced Fehr to leave Germany with Jules Fehr. Settling in Paris, the couple opened the Publi-phot school of photography. The school specialized in advertising photography, a pioneering program at the time.

Fehr participated in the New Photography movement in Paris. Exhibiting artists alongside Man Ray, Fehr explored the artistic boundaries of photography, producing photograms, photomontages, and solarized prints.

During the 1930s, Gertrude and Jules Fehr moved to Switzerland. There, they opened a photography school in Lausanne, now known as the Ecole Photographique de la Suisse Romande.

Fehr gave classes in portrait, fashion, advertising and journalistic photography at the school until 1960 when she dedicated herself to freelance portraiture. Both her teaching and photography paved the way for contemporary photographic art.

Trude Fleischmann (1895 – 1990)

Trude Fleischmann with her work. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

After studying art in Paris and Vienna, Trude Fleishmann apprenticed with Dora Kallmus and Hermann Schieberth.

Fleischmann opened a studio when she was 25. Working with glass plates and artificial light, Fleishmann created deftly diffused portraits of celebrities. Her studio quickly became a hub for Viennese cultural life.

In 1925, Fleishmann took a nude series of dancer Claire Bauroff. Displayed at a theater in Berlin, the images were confiscated by police, winning Fleischmann international fame.

The Anschluss forced Fleischmann to leave the country in 1938. After settling in New York in 1940, she established a new studio where she resumed photographing celebrities, dancers and intellectuals including Albert Einstein and Eleanor Roosevelt. Her introspective and atmospheric portraiture is viewed as art suffused with technical prowess.

Dorothea Lange (1895 – 1965)

Dorothea Lange’s “Migrant Mother”. Image courtesy of Wikipedia

Known for her work documenting the depression, American photographer Dorothea Lange’s “Migrant Mother” became a symbol of hardship and resilience in the face of economic collapse.

The majority of Lange’s early studio work centered around portraits of the social elite of San Francisco. With the commencement of the Great Depression, however, Lange transitioned from the studio to the streets.

Applying techniques she had developed for photographing portraits of wealthy clientele, Lange’s unapologetic studies led to her employment with the Farm Security Administration. There, she continued to document the suffering of victims of the depression. Soon, her powerful images became an icon of the era.

Described in her own words, Lange used the camera as “…an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera”. Her unflinching study of the human condition in the 20th century shaped photojournalism in a way that continues to resonate today.

Grete Stern (1904 – 1999)

A self-portrait by Grete Stern. Image courtesy of Wikipedia

Originally a graphic designer, Grete Stern studied under Walter Peterhans in Berlin where she and Ellen Auerbach opened a well-regarded studio, ringl+pit.

Emigrating to England in 1933, Stern then traveled to Argentina with her husband, Horacio Coppola. They opened an exhibition literary magazine Sur hailed as “the first serious exhibition of photographic art in Buenos Aires.”

By the mid-1940s, Stern was well established in Buenos Aires. She worked with women’s magazine Idilio, illustrating reader-submitted dreams through photomontage. Stern incorporated feminist critiques into her pieces which became popular with readers.

In 1964, Stern traveled Northeast Argentina, producing over 800 photos of Aboriginals in the region. The body of work is considered to be the most significant Argentinian record of its time.

“Photography has given me great happiness,” said Stern in 1992. “I learned a lot and [said] things I wanted to say and show”.

Ylla (1911 – 1955)

Ylla photographing a toucan. Image courtesy of Wikipedia – ©Pryor Dodge at the English Wikipedia [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)]

Animal photographer, Ylla (Camilla Koffler) originally studied sculpture under Petar Palavicini at the Belgrade Academy of Fine Arts, moving to Paris to continue her studies in 1931.

Working as an assistant to photographer Ergy Landau, Ylla began photographing animals on holiday. Encouraged by Landau, Ylla started exhibiting, opening a studio dedicated to pet photography shortly after.

Ylla’s first major book, Petits et Grands was published in 1938. That same year she collaborated with British evolutionary biologist Julian Huxley for his book Animal Language.

During 1941 Ylla immigrated to the United States. She opened a new studio in New York, photographing a miscellany of animals from lions and tigers to birds and mice.

In 1955, Ylla fell from a jeep while photographing a bullock cart race in India. She was fatally wounded. Her New York Times obituary read that Ylla “…was generally considered the most proficient animal photographer in the world.”

Olive Cotton (1911 – 2003)

“Teacup Ballet” by Olive Cotton. Image courtesy of Wikimedia

Describing her process as “drawing with light”, Olive Cotton’s Teacup Ballet has become synonymous with her artful command over light and shadow.

After studying English and Mathematics at university, Cotton pursued photography by joining childhood-friend Max Dupain at his studio in Sydney.

Besides assisting Dupain, Cotton also perused her own work. Cotton and Dupain were married briefly and she ran the studio in his absence during the war. She was one of the few professional women photographers in Australia at the time.

In 1944, Cotton married Ross McInerney, moving to a property near Cowra, NSW. Cotton gave up work as a professional photographer until 1964 when she opened a small photographic studio.

In the early 1980s, Cotton reprinted negatives she had taken over the past forty years or more. The resulting retrospective exhibition in Sydney in 1985 earned her recognition as a key figure in the development of Australian photography.

Conclusion

It’s impossible to cover the sheer number of women that have embodied the tenacity and creativity of a photographer’s spirit in a single article. With this piece, however, I hope to have encapsulated some of the resolves of the generations of women who have shaped photographic history. And although we aren’t all the way to achieving equality yet, thanks to the female photographers of the past and present, we’re a lot closer than we used to be.

 

The post 9 Pioneering Women Who Shaped Photographic History appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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