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A Step-by-Step Guide to Sky Replacement Using Photoshop

29 Sep

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Sky Replacement Using Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Picture this if you will: you’re out in nature with your hopes, dreams, and a camera to capture it all. You see the beauty of creation stretching out before you, so you carefully and patiently set up your gear to get the perfect shot. Finally, the sun moves to just the right spot, and you hold your breath while you press the shutter button. Then you realize the clouds are all wrong. You can wait for hours for the ideal opportunity to present itself, or you can do sky replacement using Photoshop to drop in another one. It’s not as difficult as it might seem and can lead to some exciting results.

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

The building is in Oklahoma, and I combined it with a long-exposure sky I shot in Kansas.

Before you get started with this operation, you will need two pictures: one with a boring sky and one with a breathtaking sky. If you’re just getting started, I recommend using two pictures shot at a similar time of day under similar conditions. If you replace a sunny sky with storm clouds, the lighting will be all different, and the results will look, well, Photoshopped.

Image: A scenic view in the middle of Kansas. The sky could use some clouds though.

A scenic view in the middle of Kansas. The sky could use some clouds though.

After finding a picture with a nice foreground, you need to get another picture with an interesting sky.

Image: I shot this in the Tallgrass Prairie Nature Preserve in another part of Kansas. These clouds...

I shot this in the Tallgrass Prairie Nature Preserve in another part of Kansas. These clouds would look great in the first image, and Photoshop can help.

The plethora of screenshots below might seem overwhelming, but this entire process is quite easy and a lot less complicated than it seems. Fire up Photoshop, follow along carefully, and you should have some good results in no time at all.

Step 1: Get rid of the boring sky

Open your picture with the sky you want to replace in Photoshop. If you’re not familiar with Photoshop, you’ll see that the Layers panel on the right side has your picture as the Background layer. It’s locked, meaning you need to unlock it or make a copy. Go with the latter route by right-clicking and selecting Duplicate Layer.

Image: Always work on a copy of the background layer so you can revert to it if you need to.

Always work on a copy of the background layer so you can revert to it if you need to.

Click the new layer in the Layers panel to make sure it’s actually selected. You will know it’s selected by the outline that you can see around each corner of the layer thumbnail.

Image: The currently selected layer has white borders around each corner of its thumbnail. Make sure...

The currently selected layer has white borders around each corner of its thumbnail. Make sure the original Background layer is hidden by clicking the eye icon to the left of its thumbnail.

Click the eye button next to the original Background layer to make it invisible. It’s still there if you need it for any reason, but if all goes well, you should be able to do the rest of this entire process using the duplicated layer.

The next thing you need to do is remove the sky, which you can do with a technique known as layer masks. Start by clicking the Selection tool and holding it down until the pop-up menu appears. Click “Quick Selection Tool.” While not perfect, this is a great starting point for people who are new to sky replacements. You can do some fine-tuning to get things just to your liking.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Sky Replacement Using Photoshop

Now click and drag in the sky and watch the selection grow until it covers your entire sky.

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

Use the Selection tool to create a selection around the sky in your original image.

This selection isn’t going to be perfect, but it’s a good place to start. You can refine things once you create your layer mask. As long as you have most of the sky selected, you’ll be good to go. You can also use the Magic Wand tool to select portions of the sky, and hold [shift] to keep adding new parts to the selection. This works well if you have clouds or other elements besides just the color blue in your sky.

With the sky selected, click the Add Layer Mask button at the bottom of the Layers panel.

Image: Click this button at the bottom of the Layers panel to create a Layer Mask. This lets you sho...

Click this button at the bottom of the Layers panel to create a Layer Mask. This lets you show and hide different parts of a layer.

The result might surprise you – everything in your picture is now gone except for the sky! (If you still see the original image, remember to click the eye to the left of the Background layer. This will make it invisible, but not remove it from Photoshop.)

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

The initial layer mask shows the sky, which is not exactly what you want for this operation. It’s a good starting point though.

Removing everything but the sky is the opposite of what you want to do! The fix for this is simple: invert your layer mask. Select your new layer mask by clicking on the black-and-white thumbnail in the duplicated background layer.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Sky Replacement Using Photoshop

Now invert the mask by pressing Control-I (Command-I on a Mac) or choosing Image -> Adjustments -> Invert from the menus at the top of your screen. Now we’re really making some progress since the sky is gone but the foreground remains intact.

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

Invert the layer mask to show only the foreground. With the sky out of the way you can now insert a new sky into the background.

If clouds, birds, or other elements of the original sky are still intact, you can remove them by using the Brush tool on your layer mask. (See Step 3 for details on how to do this.)

Step 2: Insert a better sky

There are a couple of ways to do this next step, and I’m sure you will probably develop your own workflow over time. Since this is just a tutorial to get you started though, it should work for most basic sky replacement.

Choose the File menu and then select Place Embedded. Navigate to the folder on your computer with the image you want and double-click on it. This loads the replacement sky picture into your current Photoshop document. You can then tweak the results to get just the right image you want. The image will load on top of the previous image, and you’ll see it at the top of your Layers panel.

Image: When you place a new image into your Photoshop document it will appear at the top of the list...

When you place a new image into your Photoshop document it will appear at the top of the list of layers, which means it’s the only thing you will see in the main image editing screen.

Photoshop layers work like a stack: whatever is on top is, literally, whatever you see on top of your picture. If you want something to appear underneath something else, just click and drag the layers to your liking. In fact, that’s what you have to do with your replacement sky. Click the layer you just inserted and drag it below the duplicated background layer.

Image: Click and drag the sky replacement layer so it’s beneath the copy of your background.

Click and drag the sky replacement layer so it’s beneath the copy of your background.

Now look at your sky picture! Just like magic, the original sky has gone and the new sky shows up in its place.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Sky Replacement Using Photoshop

Step 3: Clean things up

At this point, there are two common issues that generally need fixing. One is that the foreground has some errors that need correcting, like trees or other objects that are cut off or otherwise not showing up properly. The other is that the replacement sky doesn’t quite fit the empty space.

You can harness the power of Layer Masks to fix the first issue. Tap the Z key to switch to the Zoom tool, and click on your picture a few times to zoom in for a close-up view. Hold the space bar to switch to the Hand tool, and click-and-drag the picture to see the spots that need fixing.

Image: These trees don’t really need fixing, but I want to remove them for a cleaner horizon.

These trees don’t really need fixing, but I want to remove them for a cleaner horizon.

Make sure you select your Layer Mask and tap the B key to switch to the Brush tool. Right-click to adjust the size of your brush and other parameters like hardness and shape.

Image: Using the brush tool on the Layer Mask will show or hide specific parts of the layer.

Using the brush tool on the Layer Mask will show or hide specific parts of the layer.

Now click on the parts of the foreground you want to either remove from the picture or add to the picture. (Press the X key to switch between remove and add mode.) What you’re actually doing is painting white or black on the layer mask: everywhere you paint white is shown, and everywhere you paint black is hidden. You don’t actually see the white or black colors, just the results of painting them onto the image.

Image: A few clicks on the Adjustment Layer and the trees have gone!

A few clicks on the Adjustment Layer and the trees have gone!

If you find that your sky doesn’t quite fill the empty space, you can solve that by just adjusting the size of the sky layer. Click the top layer, the one with the foreground, and adjust the opacity to 30%. That way you can see the background layer, the one with the sky, along with the foreground layer.

Image: Set the opacity of the duplicate background layer to 30%.

Set the opacity of the duplicate background layer to 30%.

The result looks like some kind of weird double-exposure error, but it will look fine once you finish the operation.

Image: You can now see the replacement sky and the foreground. This will help you adjust the replace...

You can now see the replacement sky and the foreground. This will help you adjust the replacement sky size and position to your liking.

Select the layer with the replacement sky and choose Edit -> Free Transform, or press Control-T (Command-T on a Mac). Then use the handles at the corner of the sky layer to enlarge it until it fills the empty space.

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

After pressing Transform, click and drag on the squares in the corner of the layer to change its size. Click and drag in the middle of it to change its position.

After you have resized the sky layer, press the [return] key to lock in the transformation. Then go back to the foreground layer and increase its opacity to 100%. This same process is also a great way to adjust the sky in the background even if there isn’t necessarily anything wrong with it. One example of this is if you want to adjust the sky to emphasize a certain portion where the clouds happen to be more interesting.

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

The same image as before, but with the sky zoomed in (i.e. Transformed) to create a more interesting picture.

Once you get the hang of this process, it’s pretty simple. You can do a lot of custom work simply by editing the layer mask you create in the first step. You can also do this just for fun, like the picture below where I replaced the blue sky behind this building with a giant squirrel. If you have kids, or if you just want to have some fun experimenting on your own, this is a great way to explore some of the capabilities of Photoshop.

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

Attack of the Giant Mutant Killer Squirrels!

Once you try sky replacement using photoshop on your own, I’d love to see some examples of your work. Leave the results in the comments below!

 

sky-replacement-using-photoshop

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Sky Replacement Using Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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The Fujifilm X-Pro 3: Marvellous or Mistake?

29 Sep

The post The Fujifilm X-Pro 3: Marvellous or Mistake? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

Image: A marvelous innovation or a stupid mistake? Whatever your opinion, the new Fuji X-Pro 3 defin...

A marvelous innovation or a stupid mistake? Whatever your opinion, the new Fuji X-Pro 3 definitely has people talking.

Cameras are pretty similar these days. We all want the same things. Better dynamic range, better high ISO performance, and better autofocus. 

Really, if you look at the majority of cameras out there at the moment, there are few things that set them apart. That was until Fuji dropped the X-Pro 3. 

They did what with the screen?

In an incredibly bold move (or stupid, depending on which blogs you read), Fuji has done away with the standard rear LCD screen of the camera. They’ve replaced it with a much smaller screen.

It simply displays the key exposure information, or in a nod to the film cameras of days gone by, an image of the film simulation you are using.

The rear screen is not entirely gone though (although they apparently considered it). Instead, it is hidden from view and accessed via flipping it down from the rear of the camera.

Fuji claim this is to stop photographers spending time “chimping” and spending more time with the viewfinder to their eye instead, concentrating on making images.

Pure photography

Fuji launched the camera at the recent Fuji Summit where the Fujifilm X-Pro 3 was announced with a theory of Pure Photography.

The 3 elements of pure photography are:

Carry and access

You need to carry the camera and access the subject. This stated the camera has to be small, light and discreet. They state the camera should be an extension of your eye. This is then followed by talking about the durability of cameras.

Find and frame

You need to find the subject and frame it to get the best composition. Fuji stated that the viewfinder is the most important part of finding your composition.

Shoot to express

This is simply pressing the shutter and capturing the photograph. You don’t need to check a rear screen or distract yourself, you simply need to press the shutter. 

This concept is definitely summed up in the Fujifilm X-Pro 3. Personally, the idea of removing distraction is appealing, and I’m sure I’m not alone. However, whether this camera has mass-market appeal remains to be seen. Fuji’s X-Pro line (including the x-Pro 1 and X-Pro 2) has always been a favorite of street photographers, and this is how Fujifilm are marketing the camera and the pure photography concept. They are marketing to those who want discretion and to focus purely on making the image.

I can imagine many wedding photographers loving this camera too. Not only for the discretion it offers when shooting, but for the fact that you will be thankful for the lack of a screen every time a tipsy relative asks, “give us a look.” It may even suit travel photographers.

OK, they killed the screen, but what else?

The Fujifilm X-Pro 3 had a couple of other things that are worth mentioning – starting with the choice of materials.

The use of titanium is something that Fuji has surprised many with. Titanium is more durable and lighter than the alloys seen in most modern cameras. Titanium is also notoriously hard material to work with, so we should applaud Fuji by the use of this in the X-Pro 3.

This means that the XPro 3 should stand up to the beating a working professional will give it.

Not only is it made of titanium, but it gives you three color options. You can get the X-Pro 3 in black, DURA black and DURA silver. DURA is a special type of coating that is ten times stronger than stainless steel in terms of scratch resistance.

It feels like Fuji built this camera for war zones.

Image: Available in 3 different finishes, two of which are designed to make the titanium body even m...

Available in 3 different finishes, two of which are designed to make the titanium body even more resistant to wear and tear.

The X-Pro 3 has Fuji’s hybrid viewfinder system. Fuji has upgraded this for the new model. It is set to be clearer, with a wider field of view and less distortion than previous models. The electronic viewfinder is also upgraded (as you would expect) to offer a higher frame rate, higher contrast, and a wider color space – finally, a set of specs that fit into the traditional camera upgrade.

The lack of a screen is something that differentiates the X-Pro 3 in Fuji’s camera lineup. In fact, this differentiates them from the camera market as a whole right now. Fuji has aimed this camera at a specific type of photographer. It remains to be seen whether there are enough of their market to allow this camera success.

If you want to watch the whole of the XSummit announcement, you can view it below. If you’re just interested in the X-Pro 3, skip to about 1:10 or so.

What are your thoughts on the Fujifilm X-Pro 3? Is it something that you are intrigued by? Or, did Fuji just make one hell of a mistake? Let me know in the comments below.

fujifilm-x-pro-3

The post The Fujifilm X-Pro 3: Marvellous or Mistake? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


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A Photography Shootout: the iPhone 11 Pro vs the Canon 5D Mark IV

28 Sep

The post A Photography Shootout: the iPhone 11 Pro vs the Canon 5D Mark IV appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

The iPhone 11 Pro has just been released, with a triple-camera setup (including a telephoto lens, a wide-angle lens, and an ultra-wide lens), a new Night Mode, and an upgraded front-facing camera.

A Photography Shootout: the iPhone 11 Pro vs the Canon 5D Mark IV

But despite all the new bells and whistles, iPhone image quality continues to lag far behind that of full-frame DSLRs and mirrorless bodies. And professional photographers simply don’t find iPhone photos up to their standards.

Right?

That’s what wedding photographers, Lauren and Jamie Eichar set out to test. They did a photoshoot with their new iPhone 11 Pro and their top-of-the-line Canon 5D Mark IV, then compared the images.

And the results are surprising.

In fact, this is relevant to anyone wondering about the future of smartphone photography.

So I suggest you watch the video to see the images, side by side. As you look at the images, see if you can tell the difference. Ask yourself:

  • How would I feel about my images if I were only shooting with an iPhone 11 Pro?
  • How would I feel if I had my wedding photographed by an iPhone 11 Pro?

?

I’ll admit:

I’ve never been a fan of iPhone image quality. Low light performance is, frankly, terrible, and even the noise levels in good light leave a lot to be desired. Plus, the tiny sensor makes good bokeh practically impossible to achieve, and Apple’s attempt to rectify that (Portrait mode) is frustrating and unpredictable.

That said, these photos left me pleasantly surprised.

For one thing, Apple seems to have given Portrait mode a significant upgrade. Portrait mode on the iPhone XS frequently failed to find the edges of the main subject, which resulted in strange spots of blur and other image inconsistencies. But in the hands of these professional wedding photographers, the iPhone 11 Plus Portrait mode performs well. Certainly better than on the iPhone XS – though you’ll notice that zooming in on the Portrait mode shots does reveal frequent problems along the subject’s edges.

Also, the Portrait mode blur looks more authentic. While the bokeh produced by the Canon 5D Mark IV setup is clearly superior, the iPhone blur isn’t as far behind as it once was.

As for noise and sharpness, I don’t notice any issues when viewing the photos at a normal viewing size. But viewing the images large (which can be done here) shows significant noise and lack of clarity in all of the iPhone images. While this might not seem like a problem when posting small files on the internet, it becomes more serious if you decide to print your photos, especially if you’re looking to print large.

Also, note that Lauren and Jamie tested the iPhone in good light. My guess is that noise levels would increase significantly if doing photography indoors.

So again, ask yourself the questions I posed earlier. How would you feel about your images if you were only shooting with an iPhone 11 Pro? How would you feel about the results if you had your wedding photographed by an iPhone 11 Pro?

And share your response in the comments!

The post A Photography Shootout: the iPhone 11 Pro vs the Canon 5D Mark IV appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Nikon to Produce Mirrorless Crop-Sensor Camera and Two Z Lenses

28 Sep

The post Nikon to Produce Mirrorless Crop-Sensor Camera and Two Z Lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

nikon-z50

Up until now, Nikon has stayed out of the mirrorless APS-C (crop-sensor) camera space. They’ve let Sony and Fujifilm take the lead with their respective a6000 and X-T lineups. Even Canon, which stands at the back of the mirrorless pack, has produced its ‘M’ series.

But things are changing in the digital camera world, especially as DSLRs lose ground to mirrorless systems and DSLR lineups get shelved. Nikon, a (relatively) small company surrounded by big players, has pushed innovation, bringing out the full-frame Z6 and Z7 last fall. The Z7 immediately made waves in the mirrorless camera world with its 45.7-megapixel sensor and impressive low light performance.

And now Nikon is trying to do it again.

Recent rumors indicate that Nikon will soon be entering into the APS-C mirrorless world with the Nikon Z50, a mirrorless body with a 20-megapixel sensor.

Other reported specs include a 3-inch LCD, an 11 frame-per-second continuous shooting speed, and an electronic viewfinder.

For Nikon DSLR photographers who have been thinking about moving to mirrorless, this will come as a welcome surprise, especially if you’ve been put off by the high price of the Nikon Z6 and Z7. This new camera is aimed at the enthusiast crowd, with its electronic viewfinder and 11 fps continuous shooting speed putting it a cut above entry-level bodies.

The 20-megapixel sensor is a step down in resolution from competing Canon, Fujifilm, and Sony models, but the camera could impress in terms of autofocus and action shooting, possibilities that are hinted at with the 11 fps continuous shooting speed.

The Nikon Z50 should also give you access to the Nikkor Z lenses. The lineup is currently very heavy on wide and standard lenses, but that’s bound to change as Nikon dedicates more and more resources to its mirrorless engineering. And the Z50 rumors come alongside talk of two new Nikon Z lenses: the Z-Nikkor 16-55mm f/3.5-6.3 DX lens and the Z-Nikkor 50-250mm f/4.5-6.3 DX lens.

(Note the ‘DX’ label: Neither of these lenses can be used on full-frame mirrorless bodies.)

These are kit lenses, through and through, and it remains to be seen how they perform. But I have high hopes for Nikon’s mirrorless lineup, especially as it begins to round itself out.

Now it’s your turn: 

What do you think about the Nikon Z50? Is it something you’d be interested in? Or were you hoping to see a Z6/Z7 upgrade? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Nikon to Produce Mirrorless Crop-Sensor Camera and Two Z Lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Squares

28 Sep

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Squares appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is SQUARES!

Image: Benjamin Bousquet

Benjamin Bousquet

Squares are all around us. You can see them in windows, buildings, boxes, TVs, technology, picture frames, power boxes, children’s toys, tiles, floors, etc.

So go out and capture anything that has squares. They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. Just so long as they have squares in them! You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Image: Adli Wahid

Adli Wahid

Image: Ilze Lucero

Ilze Lucero

Image: Taylor Kiser

Taylor Kiser

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting SQUARES

The dPS Ultimate Guide to Food Photography

9 Creative Architecture Photography Techniques for Amazing Photos!

How to Tell Stories with Architecture Photography

The Ultimate Guide to Street Photography

6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography

6 Still Life Photography Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Weekly Photography Challenge – SQUARES

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSsquares to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

 

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Squares appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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How to Make a Cool David Hockney-Inspired Photomontage in Photoshop

27 Sep

The post How to Make a Cool David Hockney-Inspired Photomontage in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

David Hockney’s approach to art has made him one of the most influential British artists of the 20th century. Exploring the nature of photographic representation, Hockney’s distinctive method of photography is both thought provoking and physically engaging. In this tutorial, we’ll have a look at creating a simple David Hockney-inspired Photomontage in Photoshop.

photomontage-in-photoshop

The photography of David Hockney

David Hockney once said, “photography is all right if you don’t mind looking at the world from the point of view of a paralyzed cyclops-for a split second.”

However, in the 1980s, Hockney began to experiment with the photographic medium. Taking numerous Polaroid or 35mm photographs of a scene from a variety of perspectives, Hockney would then arrange the collection of images into a cohesive body, creating an almost Cubist rendering of visual reality. He called these collages and photo montages joiners.

This distinctive approach to image making was a reflection of Hockney’s dislike for photographs executed with a wide-angle lens. By creating his joiners, Hockney sought to reflect the process of seeing, creating a narrative based around visual experience.

How to make a simple Hockney-inspired Joiner

Step 1: Select an image

Image: Our source image

Our source image

For this tutorial, I’ll be using a photo I took of clouds. The photo is made up of strong shapes, forms and tones. When converted into a joiner, these elements are pulled apart to create a mangled scene that is consolidated by the overall character of the source image.

Step 2: Cutting

With your chosen image open, select the Rectangular Marquee Tool from the left toolbar (or type the letter M).

Select a small section of your image and right-click within the selected area.

Click on Layer Via Cut. The selection will be severed from the source image to create a new layer.

Image: Use the rectangular Marquee Tool to select and cut portions of your image

Use the rectangular Marquee Tool to select and cut portions of your image

Step 3 – Open a New File

Open a new file by selecting File -> New. Name the new canvas Joiner and select an image size that mirrors the dimensions of your source photograph.

Click OK, and a new canvas will open. This is the canvas we will create our joiner on.

photomontage-in-photoshop

Opening a new canvas. Set the height and width to the same dimensions of the source file.

Step 4: Drag and drop

Return to your source image.

With the Move Tool (V), select the recently cut section of the source image and drag it onto the tab of Joiner. The Joiner canvas will open.

Drag the cut selection onto the Joiner canvas. Place the selection in roughly the same location that it is on the source image. It doesn’t need to be exact.

Image: Dropping portions of the source image onto the Joiner canvas. Feel free to overlap the differ...

Dropping portions of the source image onto the Joiner canvas. Feel free to overlap the different layers, as this will contribute to the joiner aesthetic!

Step 5: Creating the Joiner Effect

Continue to cut selections from the source image, dragging and dropping them onto the Joiner canvas. You can cut similarly or randomly sized pieces – it’s up to you.

Once you’ve cut and transferred most of your source image to the Joiner canvas, it’s time to emphasize the joiner effect.

You want to cultivate a disjointed aesthetic, like misaligned puzzle pieces.

You can overlap, duplicate, stretch and rotate each piece to exaggerate this disjointed effect.

Make the edges of the joiner correspond, or allow components to poke out of the overall composition like a messy collage.

Be expressive with your perspectives, experiment with different combinations and don’t worry too much about neatness.

You can even place Curves adjustment layers among the image layers on Joiner to alter the exposure of individual pieces.

And that’s it! Once you are happy with your joiner, make sure to save it as a .PSD file in case you want to alter the arrangement later.

Image: A simple joiner effect created by overlapping the segmented portions of the source image.

A simple joiner effect created by overlapping the segmented portions of the source image.

When you’ve got the technique down, the sky’s the limit! In the image below, I cut my source image into much smaller pieces before placing them on the canvas. I also duplicated a lot of the layers to create repetition within the layout. The smaller the pieces, the more disjointed the image becomes, creating a greater sense of movement and altered perspective.

photomontage-in-photoshop

Conclusion

David Hockney is a man of many artistic talents. As a photographer, Hockney developed a distinctive style that plays with our sense of narrative and perception.

Experimenting with the joiner effect to create a Photomontage in Photoshop isn’t quite the same as taking a whole bunch of photos and arranging them together manually.

However, with a basic process that involves cutting, pasting, arranging and a little experimentation, we can get close to a Hockney-inspired effect.

Here is another of my own creations – I’d love to see yours! Post them in the comments below!photomontage-in-photoshop

photomontage-in-photoshop

The post How to Make a Cool David Hockney-Inspired Photomontage in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Practical Color Management – How to Set Up Your Printer to Match Your Monitor

27 Sep

The post Practical Color Management – How to Set Up Your Printer to Match Your Monitor appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

practical-color-management

Matching the color you captured with your camera and edited on your computer screen can be a very serious challenge to reproduce on paper. The various technologies involved in the processes differ significantly from one another.

If you’ve ever encountered problems matching the color of your printed pictures to the color you see on your computer screen, there’s a pretty good reason why. Color is not as simple to define as that box of Crayons you played with as a child. Practical color management can be very complex.

Image: Caption: Dealing with color was a whole lot simpler when you were a kid; a box of Crayola cra...

Caption: Dealing with color was a whole lot simpler when you were a kid; a box of Crayola crayons had all the answers. Life got a bit more complicated when digital color came along. Now you really have to think.

 

Reproducing color

Reproducing color is a complicated issue to deal with, especially when it comes to transferring pixels to paper. Color is very subjective, and matching the results from one system to another can produce some very different looks. The term “color print” can mean many different things, depending on the type of printing technology you’re dealing with. Just because the image on your screen looks great doesn’t mean that what comes out of your printer will faithfully reproduce that same appearance.

practical-color-management

Large format, inkjet, and offset printing are just two of the color reproduction processes.

 

There are dozens of unique color printing machines and technologies on the market today, and most are inkjets, though occasionally we print pictures on color lasers, dye sublimation printers and several other types of printing devices. This means that four completely different technologies are trying to produce four different translations of a single color image and trying to make them all look the same.

And that’s just the beginning of the challenges because even different models of each of these printers (even from the same manufacturer) will produce slightly different results.

practical-color-management

Dye-sublimation and color laser printers present two more challenges.

 

Inks from these different technologies get sprayed, baked, fused and pushed into the (usually paper) substrate, each reproducing color using a completely different method. Some inkjet printers utilize up to twelve different colors of liquid ink, while others print only four colors. Laser printers fuse colored powder onto paper in geometric dot clusters called halftone cells. Dye sublimation printers laminate just three (CMY) colors of dyes from plastic sheets onto a substrate, and printing presses transfer four (CMYK) colors of peanut-butter consistency inks at high speeds and under extreme pressure.

Each of these different technologies attempts to reproduce a similar appearance from the same original color image.

Printing papers open up yet another can of worms to deal with. Each paper stock (let alone other textures and surfaces) come in a variety of shades of “white” and varying surface types that absorb ink and reflect light differently. Some inks are absorbed into the paper surfaces while others sit on top of the paper. These dozens of variables result in hundreds of differing results.

Getting all these color technologies to appear consistent makes the proverbial challenge of “herding of cats” sound easy. Is it any wonder why you’ll see slightly different results from different printers?

Image: Colorants is the word that encompasses all color distribution, including solid and liquid ink...

Colorants is the word that encompasses all color distribution, including solid and liquid inks, dyes, and even toner powders.

Dealing with color has always been a major challenge, even for professionals. The first thing you should realize is that accurately matching color between the various technologies is technically an impossibility. If you think otherwise, you simply haven’t been around long enough! I’m not trying to frighten you with all these variables and problems, but the more you recognize the differences, the more prepared you will be to make them work.

Here’s the good news…there is a very workable solution to all this confusion. Recognizing the underlying issues of each is the first step to reaching a workable solution. Each convoluted challenge requires a relatively simple solution; one that the color science community has provided through a process called color management, or CM.

At the heart of color management is an integral step called “profiling.” Profiling in color science is a very good thing. It simply involves identifying each process’ uniqueness and compensating for that uniqueness.

Here’s how the process works.

Image: The all-encompassing color measurement process that defines how human beings see and identify...

The all-encompassing color measurement process that defines how human beings see and identify colors is known as the Visible Spectrum. It’s defined and monitored by this worldwide organization.

 

The Reference Standard

The International Commission on Illumination, also known as the CIE (the Commission Internationale d’Eclarage), is a worldwide federation of color scientists, researchers, mathematicians, and lithographers who have developed a systematic approach to addressing color issues. They have researched all the colors that the human eye can actually see and identify. While there are scientific instruments that can see even more colors than the human eye can, the standard for all color perception remains limited to what the average human eye can recognize.

Studies were developed that produced the CIE 1931 XYZ color space, a measured collection of about 7 million colors that are recognized by human beings with 20-20 eyesight. This study established what science calls the Visible Spectrum based on these colors. While there are many more “color frequencies” in the Electromagnetic Spectrum, they are beyond the scope of human eyesight. Human eyesight is based then on the Visible Spectrum.

The CIE has mapped this collection of measured colors as an odd-looking horseshoe chart representing all visible colors. The color industry recognizes this system as the basis for evaluating colors recorded, viewed, and printed on cameras, monitors, and printers. The particular intent of this system is to standardize the output of photographic images on various color printers.

Since every color printing technology produces slightly different color results, this single XYZ collection remains THE reference color space. It serves as the holy grail of color reference. The XYZ space is the central reference for judging and evaluating all printed color.

Here’s how the system works…

practical-color-management

Color correction depends on accuracy. That accuracy depends on the confidence that what you are seeing on your monitor is an accurate depiction of what’s contained in the digital image file. Profiling a monitor is the critical first step.

Monitor profiling

Today’s computer monitors produce quite accurate colors right out of the carton. However, if you want to guarantee that the colors you see on your monitor are exactly the same colors that came out of your camera, you need to take this extra step.

The process is simple. Purchase a puck-like device like the X-Rite i1Studio spectrophotometer. Then hang it in front of your monitor and run the provided software that makes your monitor dance with colors while measuring the strength and hue of the colors flashing on the screen. This light show produces a monitor profile that gets stored on your computer and subsequently adjusts and corrects any errant colors. This allows you to see the whole truth of the color file, no muss, no fuss.

Printer/paper profiling

This next process should be equally painless. Most paper manufacturers provide downloadable profiles they’ve developed for their most popular printing papers and a wide variety of popular printers. Should you have to (or choose to) develop your own printer/paper/ink profile, you can do so using that same X-Rite i1 Studio.

Here’s how you do it…

practical-color-management

The next step in reproducing color accurately, is making certain that the colors seen on the monitor are printed faithfully onto specific printing papers. Each paper surface and color (whiteness) affects the way light is reflected, and the color is perceived.

  1. A test chart of carefully defined color patches (based on this CIE XYZ color space) is printed from the software provided with the i1 Studio. The printed patch values are then measured by the i1 Studio comparing the printed patch values produced by the X-Rite reference chart to the known XYZ values established by the CIE. The difference between these patch values is recorded as a “profile” or evaluation. This profile reveals the color personality of each printer and paper tested, making a note of where the colors don’t match the test file.
  2. In the parts of the color spectrum where the printed color values differ from the reference chart values, minor adjustment instructions are made to either boost or diminish colors to more closely match the reference chart.
  3. This profile is then placed in your computer’s printer profile folder where it can be referenced by your printer every time you print a picture. The result of choosing the correct profile from the list of papers offered by your printer driver should result in a print that closely resembles the colors you see on your screen.

While there is a whole lot more detail involved in this profiling process, this basic explanation should give you a general idea of the procedure.

Every time you change the paper type or change the brand of ink, a unique profile should be developed to ensure the printer achieves the most consistent, repeatable results.

Precision profiling is a time-consuming chore, and most mortals have neither the time nor the access to these specialized devices to ensure absolute accuracy. However, printer and paper manufacturers use even more expensive versions of these spectrophotometer devices to test their products and develop very accurate printer/paper profiles. These profiles are freely available for download from each manufacturer’s site.

Setting up the printer

When it comes time to print your picture, there are certain issues you must address and set correctly in the print driver. There are generally two ways to have the color file prepared for output: either the printer driver or Photoshop will handle the chores. The choice is up to you, though I recommend that you allow Photoshop to do the work.

Image: Each profiled paper/ink/printer combination manage the way inks (colorants) are distributed b...

Each profiled paper/ink/printer combination manage the way inks (colorants) are distributed by the printer. Color Management is the discipline of controlling all of the major variables involved in the process.

If you choose to have Photoshop manage the Colors:

  • First, take note of the paper loaded in the printer. Remember, each paper type reacts to the colorant (ink, powder, etc.) differently, and your printer has no way of knowing what paper is in the hopper.
  • Second, choose File -> Print.
  • Third, choose Photoshop Manages Colors.
  • For Printer Profile, select the profile that best matches your output device and paper type.
  • Set the “rendering intent” selection to either Perceptual (which tells the printer to try to preserve the visual relationship between colors, which is what the human eye does) or Relative Colorimetric (this instructs the printer to shift the out-of-gamut colors to the closest reproducible color).
  • When available, always check Black Point Compensation as it adjusts the overall baseline for the deepest shadow point in the image.

If you choose to have the Printer manage the Colors:

  • First, realize that all of the controls for color and range in the image will be controlled by the printer and not by you.
  • Make certain that you pay close attention to all the items in the print dialog that appears after you click “Print” from the Photoshop dialog.
  • Since every printer and print technology differs, little further advice can be offered. This is not to infer that inferior results will occur, just that Photoshop relinquishes control to you and your printer’s manufacturer.

Final thoughts

If good-enough color is good enough for you, then the simple act of noting the general type of paper (coated, glossy, matte, etc.) available will suffice and satisfy your needs. However, if you extensively adjust your images for color fidelity in the editing process and demand absolute color accuracy, then employing accurate monitor and printer profiles is essential for practical color management.

The printer and paper manufacturers have done most of the hard work of producing and honoring accurate profiles. Your job is to make intelligent pull-down menu choices that will seriously affect your printing results.

It may not be rocket science, but it is color science.

Happy printing!

 

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The post Practical Color Management – How to Set Up Your Printer to Match Your Monitor appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting

26 Sep

The post How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

There are many ways using props can make portraits more interesting. Often photographing a person can be challenging. This can be so for both the photographer and the person being photographed. Using props can not only add interest to the portrait, but it can also help your subject relax more.

What are props and how can you use them effectively?

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

A prop is any element you add to a photograph which adds interest or meaning to your subject or the concept you’re creating. What you can use is up to your imagination. They can be anything from an ancient tree stump to a melting ice cream cone.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Props can add humor to photographs. Using a prop well with a nervous subject can help them relax. You can use props effectively to help contextualize your subject. Without a prop, a portrait may not convey much or any concept. With the addition of a prop, a portrait can take on a whole new meaning.

A prop is often used to add visual information about the person;

  • their occupation
  • hobbies
  • character
  • or location

Using props to help illustrate a story

When you’re illustrating a story using a portrait, adding a prop can add depth and meaning. A prop incorporated into a photo will tell more of a person’s story than a caption, or even a whole paragraph.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Making a series of travel portraits with a visiting friend I asked her to bring along her backpack. She was going to the station to purchase a ticket for a later date and would not have brought her luggage. Having it with her for the photographs helped to create more of a visual story.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

The location and the train tell part of the story. Having her backpack in the pictures lets you know she was traveling, not just there to meet a friend. The more relevant visual information you can include, the more interesting your portraits become. Well-used props help stimulate the viewer’s imagination.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Isolated studio portraits using props

Isolating your subject on a plain background is a popular method of taking a portrait. A subject on their own can produce great character portraits. But for many people, it can be somewhat intimidating.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Using a prop can help them relax and enjoy the experience more. Having something in their hands to concentrate on distracts them from your camera. Feeling less intimidated by it, they are more likely to give you vibrant expressions.

I took a series of photographs for a small drama school. Using props helped the students feel more at ease. They were confident performers, but many of them were not so comfortable in front of the camera. Including props allowed their tutor, who was assisting me, to encourage them into character.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

A single prop keeps a studio portrait simple and adds meaning that would not be evident without it. Creating concepts for stock photography in this manner it’s possible to facilitate a whole series of photos.

Including props will add depth and interest to a series of photos of the same person. It can be challenging to take more than one or two different portraits of a person on an isolated background. Using props will give you more diverse options for what you can achieve.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Bring your own props or use what’s available

Often asking a person to bring along their own props can help create a meaningful portrait. Using items that they relate to and tell something about themselves will add genuine feeling to the portraits.

I asked this friend if I could photograph her and also what she’d like to use as a prop. Immediately she replied, “ice cream.” She loves ice cream so it was appropriate and meant she’d enjoy the photo session. The weather was so hot that even with the air conditioning blasting the ice cream melted quickly. We went with the flow and used the prop for additional makeup as well. It was a fun session.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Any well-established portrait studio has a diverse selection of props. Your subject doesn’t have to own a prop. If they can choose from a selection you have, they might find something that lights up their imagination.

Even simple things that are common can work as props. Having someone read a book or make a phone call can help them focus on what they are doing and not on your camera.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Finding props on location helps to incorporate your subject in the place. Having them pick up some produce at the market, or interact with some part of the environment can make for a more illustrative portrait.

Conclusion

Working with props definitely adds diversity to photographing people. Use the props to support your subject. Having the prop and subject in the same frame is not enough. Encourage them to interact with the props in different ways. The way your subject relates to the prop is important. This will influence the feel of the photo.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Work to develop a healthy relationship between your subject and their props. This is part of your job as a photographer. Doing this, you’ll create more entertaining portraits.

Have you tried using props for a portrait session? Let me know in the comments below the props you have found helpful during the session. Also, what type of props help make the most interesting portraits?

 

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The post How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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Review of PaintShop Pro 2020 Ultimate: A Photoshop Contender?

26 Sep

The post Review of PaintShop Pro 2020 Ultimate: A Photoshop Contender? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Glenn Harper.

Not for nothing is Photoshop called the “industry standard” for graphic design and photo editing. The moment you defect to another product, you start missing stuff. Can Corel Paintshop Pro 2020 Ultimate do the job just as well? It’s a comprehensive standalone program with lots of extras thrown in for free.

New stuff

This edition of Paintshop Pro (PSP) introduces several new features, including a touch-ready Photography Workspace, a SmartClone Tool, and a Refine Brush for ultra-precise selections. There are improvements to existing tools, too. We’ll cover these things during this review as well as looking at preexisting features.

Paintshop Pro Photography Workspace

The new touch-ready Photography Workspace may not suit everyone, but it’s uncluttered and armed with enough tools to rifle through many pictures.

Raw processing in Paintshop Pro

Paintshop Pro Ultimate comes with Corel Aftershot 3 raw processing software as well as its own in-built raw conversion. Since many of our pictures start out as raw files, it seems apt to look at these facilities first.

Aftershot 3

Aftershot 3 is a pared-down version of Corel’s Aftershot Pro, which you can upgrade to for a modest sum. The latter lets you create Lightroom-style catalogs, so all changes to images are stored inside the program instead of in separate XMP sidecar files. Although not as sophisticated as the pro version, Aftershot 3 Standard offers much more than the in-program raw conversion tool of PSP 2020. A notable exception to this is DNG support, but it does have lens corrections, layers and Perfectly Clear auto image enhancement. The latter works well with layers since you can adjust the opacity to achieve optimum results.

After shot 3 - Perfectly Clear

Reducing the opacity of Perfectly Clear on an adjustment layer often gives a nice result.

An early problem I had with Aftershot and Paintshop Pro 2020 was that neither liked my custom monitor profile, so I had to switch to a generic Adobe RGB profile to make the color look acceptable. It took some head-scratching before I realized why raw previews looked so bad.

With that problem temporarily solved, I found the software eminently usable, though I think Corel should include a histogram in the standard Aftershot version. The pro version has enough to commend it without cutting essentials from its little sibling.

zPerspector plugin Corel Aftershot 3

Adjusting perspective in Aftershot 3 using the zPerspector plugin.

Aftershot is rebranded Bibble software, which was highly rated in its time. It includes access to many plug-ins, such as the Wavelet Sharpen plug-in and the zPerspector perspective correction plugin. These are useful add-ons. I’d recommend that you trial Aftershot thoroughly before buying or upgrading. Remember, the Pro version won’t catalog your DNG files if you use them. You need proprietary raw files. As well, Paintshop Pro doesn’t like Adobe’s enhanced DNG files.

Working in Paintshop Pro 2020

The first thing to do in Paintshop Pro 2020 Ultimate is to choose from three workspaces: Photography, Essentials and Complete. The new “touch-ready” Photography workspace is inviting since it doesn’t distract you with a bewildering set of tools. It’d be a good place to start for beginners. But if you’re coming from years in Photoshop, you’ll probably skip to the Complete workspace where all things are possible.

Adjustment Layers

Just like Photoshop, Paintshop Pro 2020 gives you the choice of editing photos on adjustment layers or independently. Some of the editing choices are not available as layers, though you can always apply these to a duplicate layer. All adjustment layers have built-in layer masks for selective editing.

Color and Tone

Paintshop Pro offers most of the features you’d expect in an advanced pixel editor when it comes to correcting color and tone. There are a few things you may not have seen before. For instance, the “Histogram” adjustment layer is a kind of advanced blend of Levels and Curves.

The “Histogram Equalize” adjustment in PSP 2020 evens up the tonal range of the image, often brightening it. You need to be careful with this if you don’t want to blow highlights. More useful, I think, is “Local Tone Mapping” at its default low settings. It seems to have a very subtle HDR effect that perks many photos up.

Smart Photo Fix - PSP 2020

Smart Photo Fix lets you alter the software’s One Step Photo Fix adjustment, and as an alternative starting point, it’s pretty good. PSP did a decent job with the photo in the screenshot, though it could still do with brighter whites.

Conspicuous by its absence in Paintshop Pro is any form of clipping display or exposure warning. If it’s there, I never found it. To me, this is a must-have feature, since it shows you what you’re losing with tonal or color adjustments and whether it’s likely to matter. I don’t expect it to be missing in a wide-ranging package like Paintshop Pro.

Correcting perspective

I’ve gotten used to being able to correct perspective in architectural photos, so I was keen to see what Paintshop Pro offers in this respect. In fact, the Perspective Correction tool in PSP is very good, albeit without the full-auto option of ACR or Lightroom. It’s the work of a few seconds to correct most photos, and that’s good enough for me.

correcting perspective - Paintshop Pro 2020

This is all you need do to correct verticals in Paintshop Pro. Not automated like Adobe’s solution, but easy.

Cloning (& the new SmartClone tool)

The regular cloning tool in Paintshop Pro is fine for most cloning work, but now we also have the SmartClone tool. This is useful if you want to lay textures or patterns over another area of a photo or even a different photo. Three blend modes are available for different effects: Original, Blend, Black and White. The first gives you regular-type cloning, the second tries to blend color and texture by reducing opacity, the third clones only texture by desaturating the selected area.

smart clone tool and paint brush - Paintshop Pro 2020

I used the SmartClone tool to superimpose Proust’s face onto a separate image of the beach at Cabourg – a scene he’d have known well. By placing the clone onto a duplicate layer with a layer mask, I was able to refine the original rectangular selection using the Paint Brush with “Smart Edge” tool.

A neat feature of the SmartClone tool is the ability to save selections as presets, so you can use them with future images. This tool is not an equivalent to content-aware fill in Photoshop. It has its own uses and controls. Paintshop Pro offers Object Remover and Scratch Remover tools to intelligently fill in areas of an image, though you have to be reasonable in your expectations as to what these things can do.

Selection Refine Brush (new)

I never need to make intricate selections in my day-to-day photography, but perhaps that makes me a good candidate for testing the new Selection Refine Brush in Paintshop Pro 2020. I had trouble even accessing it at first until I realized the chosen selection tool must be docked for the button to appear. Despite this shaky start, I was soon impressed.

I started with a quick freehand selection around the edge of the subject and well within the hairline so that any intricate hairs could be selected later with the refine brush. The brush does such a good job at picking out fine detail that it’s a waste of time to attempt precision yourself. You can further refine the end result with global corrections such as smooth edge or feathering.

Image: In this photo, everything not in red is selected. You can see the Selection Refine Brush has...

In this photo, everything not in red is selected. You can see the Selection Refine Brush has done a very good job of selecting strands of hair. This was the work of just a few minutes, and I’m a novice at selections. (Photo: Pixabay)

Once you’re happy with the selection, you can output it in various ways. It’s easy to copy and paste the selection with transparent background onto a new image if you want, or you can edit it further on a new layer. Whatever your aim, it’s hard to imagine other software doing a much better job in getting you to that point.

Dealing with Chromatic Aberration

Fixing chromatic aberration, even in its most common purple fringing form, is one of the great strengths of Photoshop. Other programs struggle to compete. Paintshop Pro’s “One Step Purple Fringe Fix” introduced an artifact the first time I used it and didn’t completely remove the fringing. On the other hand, “Chromatic Aberration Removal” in PSP 2020 gave a good result. Taking as small a sample as possible seemed to help. Based on this, it might be better to leave chromatic aberration in a raw image and fix it in the rendered version, unless you have advanced raw conversion software on your side.

Image: Using the Chromatic Aberration Removal tool in Paintshop Pro to remove green fringing. Radius...

Using the Chromatic Aberration Removal tool in Paintshop Pro to remove green fringing. Radius and color range settings help to fine-tune the correction. (You may need to view this full size to see the difference.)

Sharpening

Paintshop Pro offers four sharpening methods: Sharpen, Sharpen More, Unsharp Mask, and High Pass Sharpening. These are familiar choices. Unsharp Mask lets you choose radius, strength and clipping settings. It also includes a set of presets you can pick from according to your intended use for the image.

High Pass Sharpening focuses sharpening on edges.  Most programs give you a grey overlay with this feature so you can clearly see the effect of your edit, but that’s not possible in Paintshop Pro. Instead, you have to eyeball the image directly.

There is another route to high-pass sharpening in PSP where you do get the grey preview: create a duplicate layer and go to Effects->Edge Effect->High Pass. Choose an Overlay, Hard Light or Soft Light blend mode.

high pass sharpening - PSP 2020

You get this useful preview if you sharpen your photos using Edge Effects->High Pass in PSP 2020. It’d be nice to see this in the High Pass Sharpen tool, too, but you get a regular preview there. As you can see, the grey overlay makes it easy to see what your sharpening settings are doing.

The noisier your photo is to begin with, the wiser it is to avoid global sharpening. If you have a clean file to work with that you want to quickly publish online, a simple Sharpen or Sharpen More adjustment will often look fine.

Plugins

A great feature of Paintshop Pro is its compatibility with Photoshop plugins (those with 8bf, 8be, 8bi, and 8ba extensions). A lot of the time they work fine, though I noticed the color goes flat in my Nik Collection Viveza 2 plugin if the preview is small. This is a known problem with other Photoshop alternatives.

Paintshop Pro’s compatibility with PS plugins is not an insignificant factor when weighing up the software. In fact, a range of downloadable plugins and scripts is available as soon as you buy the product – some of them free.

Time Machine

Paintshop Pro also offers the fun “Time Machine” photo effect. This teaches you something about photographic history and attempts to replicate photos from different eras, ranging from the daguerreotype in 1839 to the cross-processing look discovered in the late 1950s to early 60s. You can add appropriate borders to each effect if you want. Below is the “Early Color” preset in action with James Joyce obliging as the subject.

Review of PaintShop Pro 2020 Ultimate: A Photoshop Contender?

Extras

As well as Corel Aftershot 3 raw conversion software, Paintshop Pro 2020 Ultimate comes bundled with a host of other goodies. Here’s the full inventory:

  • GRFX Studio: gives access to 1000s of photo effects.
  • Parallels Toolbox: a suite of tools to keep your computer running smoothly.
  • PhotoMirage Express: turn stills photos into eye-catching animations.
  • Painter Essentials 6: lets you paint, draw and sketch as well as automatically adding painting effects to photos.
  • Aftershot 3: raw conversion software (good, but lacks some of the near-essential features of the pro version).
  • Creative Collection: free pack of many extras available for optional download.
Paintshop-Pro-2020-review-img3

As well as letting you create original artworks, Painter Essentials 6 can generate “paintings” from your photos.

Other new features of PSP 2020 include copy-and-paste layer styles; quicker text rendering, editing and text wrap; faster Pic-to-Painting transitions; and an improved depth-of-field effect.

shallow depth of field - flower photography

Paintshop Pro lets you apply arty shallow-depth-of-field effects with the improved Depth of Field tool.

Conclusion

Corel Paintshop Pro 2020 Ultimate is a vast photo-editing package that doesn’t leave you wanting for much. But it’s lacking in places. The absence of a clipping display or exposure warning that I could find is almost a deal-breaker for me. I use that all the time when adjusting color and tone. Also on my wants list would be gradient maps. There are surprising omissions and inconsistencies in Paintshop Pro. That aside, it’s not unlovable.

black and white conversion - GRFX Studio

The Classic B & W effect in GRFX Studio creates some pleasing black and white conversions and gives you plenty of control over the result.

Some of the tools in Paintshop Pro 2020 Ultimate are exceptional. My new-found ability to make complex selections with the Refine Brush was a bit of a revelation. And there are tons of special effects, so there’s no excuse not to be creative. Paintshop Pro seems to lean that way – towards the visual editor who doesn’t care so much about the math and more about how the photo just looks. And maybe that’s not a bad thing.

 

Have you used Paintshop Pro 2020 Ulitmate? What are your thoughts? Share with us in the comments!

 

paintshop-pro-2020-ultimate

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Gear Review: 4 New K&F Concept Filters Put to the Test

25 Sep

The post Gear Review: 4 New K&F Concept Filters Put to the Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

I have always been an advocate of carrying as little camera equipment as possible. In fact, most people are surprised to hear how little I carry with me on any trip. Besides the obvious weight to carry, it also means more things to lose or have stolen. But whilst carrying less is always better, there are some things that I simply can’t live without. Filters are one of the sets of accessories that I always take with me as they are essential for my photography. So when given four new K&F Concept filters recently, I was very excited to put them to the test.

k&f-concept-filters-put-to-the-test

Why should you use filters?

As advanced as digital cameras are these days, they still occasionally need some help to capture photos the way you want. Often the big issue in photography is light. Too much of it, not enough, too harsh, in the wrong place…if only you could control outdoor light like in a studio.

Filters can help a photographer control light in varied circumstances. There are lots of filters that all fill different objectives. Two of the most common filters are neutral density filters and polarizing filters.

Polarizing filters

Polarizing filters help to remove unwanted reflections from non-metallic surfaces. For example, if you are photographing water or through glass, they can help ensure you keep reflections to a minimum. In addition to this, they also help to boost the saturation in images (especially blues and greens). So, they are very useful for photographing things like waterfalls.

Neutral Density filters

Neutral Density filters help to reduce the amount of light that enters the camera. This allows you to select a slower shutter speed to create motion blur (when photographing water during the day or moving clouds). However, even in day to day photography, you may sometimes find ND filters useful to help avoid overexposure at wide apertures.

k&f-concept-filters-put-to-the-test

Square filters vs screw-on filters

There are two types of filters these days – square filters and screw-on filters.

Square filters are either square or rectangle and attach to a holder attached to your camera. As the name suggests, screw-on filters screw onto your lens directly.

There are pros and cons for using both. Historically, I have always used square filters, so this was a good test to see how I get on with using screw-on filters instead.

Gear Review: 4 New K&F Concept Filters Put to the Test

The filters tested

The four filters tested for this article are:

  • 77mm ND8-ND128 Variable Neutral Density ND Filter Nano Coated
  • 77mm Variable ND2-ND32 Neutral Density and Circular Polarizing Filter Coated
  • 77mm Circular Polarizers Filter, K&F Concept 77MM Circular Polarizer Filter HD 18 Layer Super Slim Multi-Coated CPL Lens Filter
  • 77mm ND2-ND32 Variable Neutral Density ND Filter Nano Coated

 

Packaging

My first impression of the filters was of the beautiful and secure packaging they arrive in. They come in a hard cardboard box with the filter itself placed in a hard plastic case inside the cardboard box. The filter is further protected inside the plastic box wrapped in a plastic bag and placed on a piece of foam. The plastic box that they come in makes them really easy to get in out to use when needed as the lid flips open. The circular polarizing filter comes in a slightly different plastic box which twists open but is still secure inside due to some rubber ridges. This stops the filter rattling around the case.

I will need to stick some small stickers on the plastic boxes and write the filter on them to make them easier to find – something that is currently lacking on the plastic boxes. Other than that, the packing is very impressive.

k&f-concept-filters-put-to-the-test

k&f-concept-filters-put-to-the-test

Build and ease of use

The frames of all of the filters, except the circular polarizer filter, are made from an aluminum alloy (the polarizer filter has extra-tough magnalium). Even though they are very slim in design, they certainly feel rigid with no real bending even when forced.

The glass itself on all the filters is coated optical glass (to help reduce reflections) that is waterproof and scratch-resistant.

k&f-concept-filters-put-to-the-test

Performance

Overall, all of the filters performed very well. As someone who has always used square filters, I was skeptical about the quality and how they would affect the image. I deliberately headed out during early afternoon as I wanted to test these filters in harsh light. Below are the images taken using these filters.

Gear Review: 4 New K&F Concept Filters Put to the Test

Circular Polarizer Filters

I conducted the first test with the circular polarizer. Below are two images taken from the same place only seconds apart. The image on the left was with no filter. In the image on the right, you can see how the reflection from the water has been removed using the K&F Polarizer Filter. In addition, you can see a boost in the blue in the sky a little. There is a very slight vignette on the top left corner, but this is so minor that it can easily be removed in post-production.

Gear Review: 4 New K&F Concept Filters Put to the Test

ND2-ND32 Neutral Density

I conducted the next tests with the two ND filters. Both filters easily screwed in and were subsequently easy to remove with no jamming at all. Both filters performed very well with no color casting or vignetting. I also didn’t come across the X cross-issue that might sometimes occur with variable ND filters.

Image: From the left: ND2, ND4, ND8, ND16, ND32

From the left: ND2, ND4, ND8, ND16, ND32

ND8-ND128 Neutral Density

The thing that I found so useful with these variable filters is the ease of transporting them and the amount of space saved in my camera bag. To be able to carry two ND filters that cover such a wide range is definitely something I feel is worth including in my camera bag.

Image: From the left: ND8, ND16, ND32, ND64, ND128

From the left: ND8, ND16, ND32, ND64, ND128

ND2-ND32 Neutral Density and Circular Polarizing

The final filter tested was the ND filter with the circular polarizing filter. Whilst I was really impressed with the other filters, this is the one that I really found useful. Normally in a situation like this, I screw on my circular polarizing filter, then screw in my filter holder ring, put the holder on, and add the filters I need before I’m ready to shoot.

This filter does all of that. You can see below how using the filter gives you a longer shutter speed to achieve smooth water, and also removes much of the reflection as well. This helps bring out the details on the river bed.

Image: No filter on the left, ND16, ND32

No filter on the left, ND16, ND32

Conclusion

As mentioned, I have always been skeptical of using circular or screw-in filters. However, I am thoroughly impressed with the K&F Concept filters I tested out. The image quality is superb and the added benefit of just using one filter and adjusting the gradient without having to stack filters is really useful.

The thing that really impressed me about these filters is how premium they look, feel, and perform. In fact, I did not notice any difference between these K&F Concept filters and my very expensive current square filters.

Another huge benefit of these filters is the cost. For example, at the time of writing the 5-stop variable ND and CPL filter is priced at $ 89.99. In other words, you are getting six filters for that price. Individually purchasing good quality filters will be a lot more expensive. This will obviously help anyone starting out and wanting to build their accessories up without spending a small fortune. I, for one, will be adding these filters to my collection.

Note: The author was given the K&F Concept filters free of charge to test out. But he is not paid or affiliated with K&F Concept and his review is honest and unbiased and based his personal experience of using the products.

 

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The post Gear Review: 4 New K&F Concept Filters Put to the Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.


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