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Creative Uses for the GIMP Jigsaw Pattern

26 Mar

The post Creative Uses for the GIMP Jigsaw Pattern appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Creative Uses for the GIMP Jigsaw Pattern

Are you looking for a fun way to display your photos? With the GIMP Jigsaw pattern, you can make your photos look like a puzzle in a single step. But why stop there? Take out some pieces or make a grid with it. Keep reading to learn how to use this filter and some creative applications for it.

Example of GIMPs Jigsaw Pattern

Make a puzzle

It may look like elaborate work, but actually turning your image into a puzzle is extremely easy. The GIMP Jigsaw Pattern is a tool that allows you to control the way you want your puzzle to look, then applies it to your image.

Let’s get started.

With your image opened, go to the menu and select Filters > Render > Pattern > Jigsaw.

GIMPs Jigsaw Pattern Menu

This will open a window where you can choose the number of pieces that will form the puzzle. You can also choose whether you want the shapes to have rounded corners or straight lines.

GIMPs Jigsaw pattern settings

You’ll also see a section called Bevel Edges with two sliders in it. This is like a carving effect, giving the illusion of tridimensionality.

There are no right or wrong values – it’s a matter of taste.

Here’s a comparison for you to get an idea of what it looks like.

GIMPs Jigsaw Patter Bevel Values Comparison
On the left, I had the values at the minimum: Bevel width: 1 and Highlight : 0.10
On the right I pushed them to the highest, so 10 and 1.0 respectively.

That’s all there is to it.

Choose the values you want in the pop-up window, and the GIMP Jigsaw Pattern does the rest.

Now, let’s see how you can break the puzzle into pieces.

Separating the pieces of the Gimp Jigsaw Puzzle

Make a template

Taking out a piece of the puzzle makes the image more dynamic – like you’re actually building it. However, unlike a real puzzle, we’re not just going to take it out from the puzzle we just made.

To make things easier, open a new white document. Here, in the blank canvas, you’ll apply the GIMP Jigsaw Pattern as you did on the previous exercise.

GIMPs Jigsaw Pattern canvas

This will serve as a template to select the pieces, hassle-free.

Now you can put in the photograph.

Go to the menu and select File > Open as Layers, and choose the file of your image. It will get placed as a layer on top of the jigsaw template.

Open As Layer in GIMP

Next, copy the layer with the template. You can do this by going to the menu and selecting Edit > Copy. While it’s there on your clipboard, select the image layer and create a Layer Mask. Do this by clicking on the button at the bottom. Then paste the template that you copied by going to Edit > Paste.

To set it onto the mask you created, you just need to click on the anchor button.

Then right-click on the layer and choose Apply Layer Mask. The mask and the layer will then merge together.

GIMPs Jigsaw Pattern into a Layer Mask

I know it sounds like a lot, but it’s actually very easy. And this way, you have everything ready to ‘cut-out’ all the pieces you want very quickly. Let’s try one.

Cut-out piece by piece

Select the piece you want to cut-out using the Fuzzy selection tool. Make sure to click on it while the template layer is selected. That way, you’ll get it with just one click.

To perfect the selection, go to the menu Select > Grow Selection and give it 1 or 2 pixels.

Select a piece from the Jigsaw

Cut out the piece in Edit > Cut and then paste it with Edit > Paste. To finalize the pasting, click on the New Layer button so that the piece remains independent.

With the Move and Rotate tool, you can position the piece. Then go to the menu Filters > Light and Shadow > Drop shadow. You decide the values depending on whether you want it dark and defined or blurred and lighter. Use the X and Y sliders to make it appear closer or further away.

Drop Shadow to the separate piece

You can repeat the process for all the pieces you want out of place. Just go back to your template every time you need to select a new one.

Create a jigsaw grid

Open a new document and create a new jigsaw as you did before. The number of pieces depends on the number of images you want to add. I don’t recommend too many because it could look messy. But, it’s entirely up to you.

GIMPs Jigsaw Pattern used as grid template

Add all the images you’re going to use by opening them as layers.

Then resize them with the Scale Tool and move them to fit each of the pieces of the puzzle. Don’t worry if they overlap in some places, you’ll fix that next.

Lay out the images for the grid on top of GIMPs Jigsaw Pattern

In the template layer, click on the piece you want with the Fuzzy Selection Tool. Then go to the corresponding image and click on the Add Layer Mask button. A pop-up menu will appear. Choose Selection from it, and click Add.

Mask the selected piece from the jigsaw pattern

That’s it.

Repeat the same for every image-piece combo until you complete your puzzle.

Have fun finding new and creative ways to use GIMP’s Jigsaw Pattern!

Example of GIMPs jigsaw pattern as grid

Supplementary Reading

  • If you’re not familiar with GIMP, check out this brief introduction.
  • If you want to edit your photograph before you turn it into a puzzle, learn here how to make them sparkle.
  • If you’re loving GIMP and want to take it with you, learn how to install it on a portable device.

The post Creative Uses for the GIMP Jigsaw Pattern appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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Artists and Explorers – What Photographer Type Are You?

25 Mar

The post Artists and Explorers – What Photographer Type Are You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

Artists and Explorers – What Photographer Type Are You?

What drives you to pull out your camera and take a picture? The answer to this question will help you understand your photographer type.

Does an image of a finished photo jump into your mind, and then you have to go out and make it? Perhaps you pick up your camera and walk out the door, not knowing where it will lead you.

Maybe you’re only compelled to photograph new places you’re traveling to, or your (grand) children as they grow up.

Understanding yourself as a photographer, and knowing what inspires you, is one of the best ways to grow. Once you know your photographer type, you can focus on the photography you love without feeling the pressure to be like other photographers.

“As a photographer, you need to develop a way of working that suits your personality.”

Tim Hetherington, Photojournalist

Let’s look at four photographer types; the traveler, the parent, the artist, and the explorer so that you can discover where you fit in and what your strengths are.

photographer type traveler
ISO 400 f/11 1/640 sec 14mm
I began my journey as the traveler type, mostly picking up my camera when I was on a road trip.

The traveler photographer type

You know you’re the traveler photographer type if you only pull out your camera when you go on a trip. You’re probably not concerned with being called a photographer and mainly want to take snapshots to capture places you travel to. But unlike typical tourists, you want those snapshots to look really good.

Here are some quick tips for the traveler photographer type:

  • Learn how your camera works, so you’re not distracted and miss the joy of traveling.
  • Master some useful composition elements to elevate your photos above sloppy snapshots.
  • Learn to see light and your photos will begin to look beautiful.
  • Practice new techniques on short day trips before you go on major travels.

The parent photographer type

You know you’re the parent photographer type if your baby or children inspired you to get a camera. Like the traveler photographer type, you might not be concerned with being called a photographer. You just want to take snapshots and capture special family memories.

But unlike most other parents or grandparents, you want those snapshots to look really good.

Here are some quick tips for the parent photographer type:

  • Learn how your camera works, so you’re not fumbling and missing moments.
  • Master some creative composition elements to elevate your photos above sloppy snapshots.
  • Learn to see light so that your photos will look beautiful.
  • Your daily family life will provide you with infinite opportunities to practice these techniques, and you’ll capture a lot of memories along the way.

It’s okay to just want good photos

If you’re the traveler or the parent photographer type, it’s okay to want good photos of your travels and your children without being totally obsessed with photography.

Learn the most powerful camera settings, the best compositional techniques, play with the light, and your photos will begin to transcend sloppy snapshots.

photographer type
ISO 200 f/4 1/2000 sec 23mm
Perhaps you’re even a blend of the traveler and parent photographer types. Things become more exciting when you blend two types together.

The artist photographer type

How do you know you’re the artist photographer type?

Easy! If you talk about making art with your photography, then you’re the artist type. Artists have a vision of exactly how they want their photos to look. Their goal is to go out and make the photo they’ve envisioned.

As an artist, you begin with a vision or at least a basic concept. You work toward making it turn out, and then produce a finished product like a print or collection of photos for some purpose.

When showing their photographs, the artist often says, “look what I made.” Whereas the explorer type often says, “look what I discovered,” or “look what I saw.”

Artists usually take a higher degree of control over the moment and their images. They are happy to transcend the original photo, adding textures, film grains, or swapping backgrounds, etc. Nothing will stand in the way of your vision!

Here are a number of other things that characterize the artist photographer type:

  • Posing and direction in portraits
  • The use of advanced Photoshop techniques
  • Referring to their work as fine art
  • Specializing in one form of photography
  • Selling prints
  • Food photography
  • Fashion photography
  • Stylized shoots
  • Studio lighting
  • Sticking with things for a long time
photographer type artist
ISO 400 f/4 1/2000 sec 56mm
I’ve always hesitated to call myself an artist because whenever I meet an artist photographer, I realize how unalike we are. We both have a camera, love photography, study light, and composition, but it seems like we have totally different goals for our work.

The explorer photographer type

If you’re the explorer photographer type then you don’t necessarily have much in mind when you pick up your camera. You wander off into the world and photograph new places, people, and things that you discover.

You might happen to travel the world, but you don’t have to travel far to be fulfilled as an explorer. Your own backyard or city likely keeps you busy.

When you photograph people, you’re not just making portraits, you’re exploring the people and relationships that you photograph.

Often enough, when you photograph an object, it’s more about the interesting light than the object itself.

You often find yourself telling others about what you discovered or learned while exploring.

This list characterizes many explorer type photographers:

  • Street photography
  • Travel photography
  • Nature and landscapes
  • You’re more of a generalist photographer
  • Photojournalism
  • Natural light
  • Candid, natural
  • New and unexpected situations
  • Lifestyle photography
  • Constantly moving on to new things
exploring childhood
ISO 400 f/5.6 1/1000 sec 45mm
Explorers are willing to go just a little bit further into the unknown. Just a little further into the murky places.

When it comes to photography, my mind is blank. I have no vision, no idea what I should do, not a clue about how my photos will turn out.

I’m more comfortable heading off into the unknown.

Throw me into a situation that I’m completely unprepared for and I’ll figure it out. That’s because I’m an explorer. I want to learn new things. I want to be thrown into situations that I’m not familiar with. And, for some strange reason, I want to do it with a camera in my hand.

“Taking pictures is like tiptoeing into the kitchen late at night and stealing Oreo cookies.”

Diane Arbus

How are the traveler and the explorer different from each other?

The traveler may only pick up the camera occasionally, and only during times of travel. The explorer is likely dedicated to daily or at least weekly uses of the camera.

The explorer can’t help but pick up the camera more often and is not limited to landscapes and new locations. They also explore relationships. Often, the explorer learns new techniques, not because the technique is necessary, but simply because they are compelled to learn new things.

art and exploration
ISO 1600 f/2.8 1/1000 sec 23mm

The common link between artists and explorers

Even if we have different goals, the common link between artists and explorers is our creativity. When a photographer picks up their Fuji mirrorless to explore the streets, they’re no less interested in light, moment, and composition than the fashion photographer who reaches for their medium format camera.

Perhaps one is more interested in documenting and learning about human nature, while the other is creating art pieces. Photography is big enough for all sorts of intentions.

Exploration and artistry as a supertype

Just as the traveler and parent types can be merged to create a deeper type, so can the artist and the explorer.

If you’re the explorer type, you may find that you have a huge body of work that you’ve done nothing with. Perhaps it’s time to elevate your exploration toward something that approaches art.

Every now and then, an artist might do well to wander off into the world without intentions to create but to just see what they discover. Your art may reach a deeper level the more you explore your world.

photographer type exploring
Don’t be surprised if your type seems a little fuzzy at first, but pay attention and it will come into focus.

What photographer type are you?

4 photographer types

Are you the traveler, the parent, an artist or an explorer?

Let me know your photographer type in the comments and add a link to your photos if you can.

The post Artists and Explorers – What Photographer Type Are You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


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SLC-1L-10: [COVID DIARIES] Shoot the Kids

25 Mar

Hey, there's a pandemic. Have you heard?

Looks like we might be spending a lot of time in the house with our immediate family these days. Maybe that family includes kids. And maybe they are starting to go a little stir crazy.

Keep reading for some ideas for any lighting photographer who might be looking to make the best of some unscheduled family time.Read more »
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Exploring Your Home with Close-Up Filters

24 Mar

The post Exploring Your Home with Close-Up Filters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Exploring Your Home with Close-Up Filters Featured Image

Macro photography is all about exploring the wonders of the world around you from a very close distance. Macro lenses let you see the tiniest parts of the world in extreme detail, often exposing an array of colors and patterns hidden right before our eyes. Macro lenses are also expensive! However, if you find yourself stuck at home for a while, you can start exploring your home with close-up filters instead. They’re a cheap alternative to macro lenses and can transform the mundane into the magnificent!

explore your home with close-up filters
Nikon D7100, 50mm, f/4, 1/125 second, ISO 220, +10 close-up filter

The first thing to do is actually get yourself a set of close-up filters.

These are basically just magnifying glasses that you screw on to the end of your camera lens. They’re absurdly cheap, ranging in price from $ 10 to $ 30 for a set of four. Just make sure you buy a set that fits your lens! The front of your lens will have a thread size listed in millimeters; for most kit lenses it’s usually 52mm or 58mm.

Close-up filters are not a substitute for a true macro lens. But they do let you get up close and personal with everyday subjects in a way that will blow your mind. It’s amazing how simple everyday objects, even just normal items in your house, take on a whole new appearance when viewed at extremely close distances.

explore your home with close-up filters
Nikon D7100, 50mm, f/5.6, 1/30 second, ISO 1600, +10 close-up filter

A normal puzzle piece looks like a work of art when shot with a close-up filter. Every detail, from the texture on the flat surface to subtle scratches in the table, becomes clear and crisp.

explore your home with close-up filters
Nothing to see here. Just an unfinished puzzle…until you see it through a close-up filter.

What makes this sort of photography any different than just putting your camera close to your subjects? All lenses have a minimum focusing distance, which is based on how the glass elements inside the lens bend and shape incoming light. Most camera lenses are physically incapable of shooting objects closer than about 250mm. You simply can’t get very close to objects and still maintain focus

Close-up filters change all that.

All you do is screw one of them on to the front of your lens and everything gets magnified right before your very eyes. Exploring your home with close-up filters is a great way to see everyday objects in a whole new light. Suddenly you can take pictures like you never imagined, or thought you couldn’t get without spending hundreds of dollars on a macro lens.

Fun for the whole family

One of the best parts about using close-up filters is exploring your home with your kids. All their toys and games suddenly take on new life when viewed up close. Blocks, crayons, action figures, toy cars, stuffed animals, even their shoes can all make great photography subjects.

explore your home with close-up filters
Nikon D7100, 50mm, f/5.6, 1/45 second, ISO 1600, +4 close-up filter.

This behemoth monster truck scaled a mountain and did it without a scratch! Luckily, I was there to capture the moment of glory with my camera. Or perhaps my oldest son and I were just playing around with some close-up filters.

explore your home with close-up filters

That’s one of the most enjoyable parts about exploring your home with close-up filters: sharing the experience with kids. They can find fun ways to look at familiar objects and see photographic opportunities where you might have never thought to look.

explore your home with close-up filters
Nikon D7100, 50mm, f/5.6, 1/30 second, ISO 1600, +4 close-up filter

When my son and I were looking throughout the house with a close-up filter on the camera, it was amazing how even the most mundane objects took on new life. Even simple things like a video game controller took on a new life of color and perspective.

explore your home with close-up filters

The important thing to remember is that it’s about creativity, not high art. You might not find the next wall hanging for the Smithsonian in your house just by taking pictures with close-up filters. But you will see an amazing world of photography open up before your very eyes that you never knew existed.

Tips and tricks

If you’re going to give this exercise a try, here are a few things to keep in mind for good results.

1. Use a Tripod

While you may take great shots with close-up filters when shooting handheld, a tripod will almost always yield the best results. Even the smallest movements are magnified many times over, so it helps to have your camera as steady as possible. You’re also working with razor-thin depth of field, so unless you’re a neurosurgeon, it’s unlikely you will be able to keep your hands still enough to get the shot you are going for.

explore your home with close-up filters
This was my setup for shooting the picture at the top of this article. There’s almost no way I could have gotten the shot in focus without a tripod.

2. Focus manually (using live view)

If you have never tried manual focus before, exploring your home with close-up filters might be a good time to give it a try.

Autofocus is very difficult when working with extremely close subjects because depth of field is so incredibly shallow. Manual focus gives you more control over your photos and helps make sure the results are exactly what you want.

explore your home with close-up filters
Nikon D7100, 50mm, f/5.6, 1/30 second, ISO 1600. Is it a pile of laundry, or is it high art?

Live View is a great option if you are not used to focusing manually. Many cameras, especially mirrorless, have a feature called focus peaking that lets you know exactly what part of your picture is in focus.

DSLRs don’t usually have focus peaking, but you can often use Live View to zoom in on a selected portion of your image. This is great for making sure your close-up photos are tack-sharp right where you want them.

explore your home with close-up filters
It’s just laundry! But shooting with close-up filters transforms normal objects into works of art.

3. Use smaller apertures

Normally when you want nice-looking, out-of-focus areas on your pictures, you use a wide aperture. The same is true when using close-up filters. But, you’ll quickly find that shooting wide open results in a depth of field that is basically unusable. Stop your lens down to f/5.6 or f/8 to get good results.

explore your home with close-up filters
Nikon D7100, 50mm, f/5.6, 1/125 second, ISO 640, +10 close-up filter

In the above image, which is just a normal washroom soap dispenser, the depth of field is so insanely shallow that just the very tip of the pump is in focus. And that’s with using a small aperture of f/5.6! Shooting at f/4, f/2.8, or f/1.8 would be a muddy, blurry mess.

4. Shoot in Manual Mode

Working with close-up filters is a great way to experiment with manual mode on your camera. Not manual focus, but manual exposure control where you set the values for aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Each of these parameters has a specific effect on your image, and when shooting close-up, you can easily see the effects that these parameters have. The stakes are low, the creativity is high, and if you’re stuck at home, you probably have some spare time to learn something new.

If you’re not sure where to start, just keep your eye on the light meter. Adjust aperture, shutter, and ISO until the meter shows that your image is properly exposed. Take a shot, and then change the aperture so it’s smaller. You’ll need to compensate by making the shutter speed longer, but that’s okay since you’re using a tripod.

Notice how the depth of field is different on the photo with a smaller aperture.

Keep experimenting with these, and pretty soon you’ll start to develop a good understanding of how to master your camera’s manual mode.

explore your home with close-up filters
Nikon D7100, 50mm, f/8, 1/15 second, ISO 1600, +10 close-up filter. Why did my son want to take a picture of a piece of cereal? I have no idea. He liked the final image though, and that’s what really matters to me.

Conclusion

Exploring your home with close-up filters is a great way to pass the time. Moreover, it’s also an outstanding opportunity to see the world around you in a whole new way. The possibilities really are endless. If you have ever wanted to try macro-style photography, this is a great way to do it without breaking the bank.

If you have any close-up shots you would like to share, or any tips I forgot to include, leave them in the comments below!

The post Exploring Your Home with Close-Up Filters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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Learning to Embrace Lens Flaws to Add Character and Nuance to Your Images

24 Mar

The post Learning to Embrace Lens Flaws to Add Character and Nuance to Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

Learning to Embrace Lens Flaws to Add Character and Nuance to Your Images Feature

As I grow increasingly “long in the tooth” so to speak, I look back over the last twenty years or so since I first picked up a camera and reflect. I entered the professional arena of photography relatively late, being in my mid-twenties before I began to think about photography more in terms of a profession rather than simply an enjoyable hobby. Since then, it’s been a wild ride. I’ve used all sorts of lenses and have been fortunate enough to evaluate a host of lenses for published tests, many of which can be found right here on Digital Photography School. As of late, I’ve noticed a marked difference in the way I approach lens flaws in my reviews.

A lens with lens flaws can be viewed as an asset

This has caused me to reevaluate how I approach not only my own professional lens tests but my attitudes towards my own lenses and personal photography.

Why do some of us expend our energy searching for a “perfect lens” and feel that a lens’s flaws are determinants of our work? This is the question we’re going to examine today.

Come along with me for a unique investigation of the attitude we often take towards lens flaws and why many of these individual nuances are completely paradoxical and can actually bolster the creative magnetism of your photographs.

A question of character

Consider for a moment what you might consider to be the “ideal lens.” Not in terms of focal length or aperture but rather the quality of the image it is capable of producing. Think about its sharpness and contrast, the way it renders colors, its vignetting, and distortion.

Naturally, I think many of us would like a lens that has maximum sharpness from corner to corner, crisp contrast, zero distortion and vignetting while producing true, rich color tonality.

Why do we think this way?

Lens flaws such as vignetting are sometimes added in post-processing
24mm, 1/640th sec at F/2, ISO 320

What I mean here is why do we feel as if a perfect lens equates to a lens which carries no inherent flaws?

I think we can all agree that issues such as massive chromatic aberration aren’t desirable in any situation. However, I suggest we should begin to embrace other behaviors present in our lenses more as inherent character traits that can enhance our photos rather than issues to be avoided.

Going further (and likely stepping on a few toes), the approach that lenses ought to present the scene or subject as optical perfection could be viewed as quite a photo-modernist attitude.

We find ourselves bombarded with highly-advanced digital cameras capable of enormous resolving power.

Naturally, and rightfully so, we seek out lenses that we feel will bring out the most potential from our cameras. And yet, many of these lenses tend to present themselves as benignly unobtrusive tools that only serve to channel light into the camera while adding as little flavor as possible.

These are new concepts for a new time that have not always been so, at least not intentionally.

Woman crouching to make a photo in the desert
24mm, 1/200th sec at F/10, ISO 80

An unfortunate byproduct of this “lens sterilization” approach is that many, especially those who are just beginning their journey as photo makers, feel a looming sense of inadequacy if their lens or lenses present themselves with so-called lens flaws.

This is a dangerously slippery slope that can often breed the notion of gear dependency over-reliance on one’s own creative opinion and self-expression.

Famous lens flaws

It’s arguably true that some of the best examples of the benefits of embracing the flaws present in your lens come from the recent resurgence of photographers opting to use vintage film lenses with their modern digital cameras. Not only are these lenses relatively inexpensive compared to more modern lenses, but they also carry unique characteristics that have come to be desired.

Case in point, the fabled Helios 44-2 lens.

The Helios 44-2 has lens flaws which are prized
My beloved Helios 44-2

The interesting thing about the Helios (and other vintage lenses) is that it offers a distinctive “swirly” bokeh that has become prized by portrait photographers and others. 

Even more interesting is this swirl is brought about by the type of technical “flaw” with the lens elements, which results in the signature spherical aberration of the bokeh. 

You can also approximately simulate this effect in Photoshop, which I describe here in this article.

The lens flaws of the Helios 44-2 caused the distinctive swirl bokeh in this photo.
Made with the Helios 44-2 at F/2, 1/320th sec and ISO 320. Note the distinctive swirling of the background.

There are, of course, other lenses that have been embraced due to their inherent optical qualities as of late. These include the cult classic Kodak Aero Ektar, the Zeiss Jena series, and the Lomography Petzval along with many others.

The Petzval, purposefully engineered to offer heavily swirling bokeh and vignetting, is especially interesting.

The bottom line here is there could very well be a predominantly apparent splitting of the schism with photographers choosing lenses that offer more inherent character. This makes for more unique photos as it is left to the user to determine the exact application where and when these lenses work best.

Embracing the imperfections

Let’s face it, there are many cases where we have to make do with the lenses we have, myself included.

I used my very first digital camera for years with only the “kit lens” included with the camera.

The lens wasn’t considered an upper-tier piece of glass, but it was all I knew and, for me, it was beautiful.

Looking back, I can’t find a fault other than my assumption that it wasn’t good enough because it was the lens that came in the box. This is highly revealing of the common mentality of today’s photographic climate. It’s quite easy to look at our gear as the scapegoat for what might be lacking in our photography simply, well…because.

Camera and lens being held

There’s no denying that we all evolve as photographers and with that evolution, we must recognize that we will eventually outgrow our tools.

This doesn’t mean we shouldn’t shy away from our lenses because they might exhibit properties that are undesirable by the common mentality of our age.

Your lens isn’t sharp corner to corner? It has a heavy vignette at its wide-open aperture?

Think about these problems from a practical standpoint for a moment. How often do you add in a post-crop vignette in Lightroom during post-processing? Do you ever add an intentional Gaussian blur?

These questions hint at a deeper insight into our own approach to photography. Could it be that the very characteristics that we desire in our photographs tend to be viewed with a negative connotation depending on the context?

What’s the endgame?

The purpose of these thoughts is to show that the merits of any camera lens are truly based in the eye of the beholder.

Sure, there are some poorly-made, un-sharp monstrosity lenses out there that hinder rather than help you make the photographs you want. At the time, many of the lens flaws we have been conditioned to abhor possibly aren’t as detrimental as we might think once we drill down and identify for what they are.

This is the main objective of this article.

It could very well be that the old cliche’ of “the best lens is the one you have with” carries with it connotations which extend past mere practical convenience. This is especially applicable if you are new to photography.

As a professional photographer who has used some of the best modern lenses on the market, I can tell you my favorite lenses have been those that fit my own proclivities, regardless of their inherent flaws and quirks.

Lens flaws can make for great photos with character
Made with the Helios 44-2,

So I will leave you with this bit of hard-learned wisdom; there are no perfect lenses, just as there are no perfect photographs or perfect photographers for that matter.

All lenses have some measure of flaws, no matter their cost. Just because you might be using a “kit lens” or one that happens to have several so-called lens flaws, doesn’t mean that you can’t go out and make terrific photos as long as you shoot what makes you happy.

The post Learning to Embrace Lens Flaws to Add Character and Nuance to Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Everything a Beginner Should Know to Improve Their Street Photography

24 Mar

The post Everything a Beginner Should Know to Improve Their Street Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.

Everything a Beginner Should Know to Improve Their Street Photography Featured Image

Street photography may seem simple on the surface, just a lot of waiting around looking for an interesting moment to happen. However, the reality is that it is one of the most difficult forms of photography. Particularly at the beginning, it can be very hard to improve in street photography.

The best moments don’t occur very often, and when they do, you have to be aware enough to see it quickly. You have to be brave enough to capture it, and your camera has to be set right.

A lot has to go right, but when it does, that’s when the magic happens. There is a specific set of tips that are important to learn early on that will make all of this much easier and, eventually, second nature.

Fear and timidness

Improve Street Photography
1/150th at F8, ISO 1600

Fear and timidness are two of the toughest obstacles to overcome for new street photographers. If you don’t feel this way, then skip to the next tip! But most people have a lot of difficulty with this aspect at first. It takes time to overcome, but the less timid you can become, the faster you will be at capturing the best moments.

No matter how tasteful your photography is, street photography is a little creepy! We’re kind of stalking people on the street a bit. But it’s important to know that we’re doing this for a reason. We like people and we want to create interesting photos of our society.

The fear aspect will get better with time – the more you shoot, the easier it will get. But it can help early on to capture some street portraits to get you comfortable. You will quickly realize how many people will be flattered by what you are doing.

Another important thing to know is how to deal with a situation if you are caught.

I just like to smile and be honest. I tell the person that I was photographing the area and the people and culture, and I thought they looked great! Flattery can get you a long way.

If the person seems uncomfortable after you speak to them, offer to delete the shot. You don’t have to, of course, but it’s the right thing to do.

And always be careful about who you photograph. Sometimes, a photograph is just not worth the chance of getting yourself in trouble.

General camera settings

Street Photography Camera Settings
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I typically prefer to shoot on Aperture or Shutter Priority settings. Since you are usually going back and forth between different levels of light, this allows you to focus on the scene itself instead of going back and forth on your camera settings. In steady lighting conditions, Manual Mode works very well, though.

Raise your ISO up! I typically use ISO 400 if I am in pure sunlight, ISO 800 in light shade, ISO 1600 in dark shade, and ISO 3200-6400 for dusk into night.

Raising the ISO allows you to have a faster shutter speed to freeze motion. It also gives you more depth of field to make sure you capture the focus correctly, or if you have multiple subjects at different depths.

On Aperture Priority, f/8 is usually my ideal setting whenever possible. It allows enough depth of field but also enough light to enter the camera. And as it gets darker, I will go down with the aperture.

Finally, I always try to keep my shutter speed above 1/250th of a second to freeze motion in people. The key on Aperture Priority is to pay attention to your shutter speed as the lighting gets darker, to make sure that it does not dip too far below 1/250th.

Prime lenses

Improve Street Photography

Prime lenses are made for street photography. They are smaller, lighter, and less noticeable. Also, the act of using a single focal length will make you much faster and more intuitive with the camera. Using one is a key way to improve your street photography.

Zooming constantly will just slow you down and keep you off balance when a moment occurs. With a prime, you are ready when something happens.

I prefer a 35mm and 50mm focal length depending on what I am shooting. Both are wide enough to capture complicated shots that mix foreground and background, and they allow you to get close and intimate with your subjects.

Acting

Improve Street Photography

When some people think of street photographers, they think of the photographers that jump out in people’s faces to take a photograph. It just does not have to be done in that way to get great, candid, close shots. I find the opposite approach to work much better.

I prefer to act like I am just looking around at something above or behind the subject I want to capture, and I carefully get myself in position. They just think I’m probably a tourist looking around, and while they notice me, they continue in their own world without realizing I’m photographing them.

I also take very quick shots where nobody notices. That way, you don’t have to do any acting in these situations. But, acting comes in handy very often.

Finally, you don’t always have to walk around while photographing. Pick an area with foot traffic and wait around. Doing this allows your subjects to enter your personal space instead of entering their space. It also allows you to get very close and nuanced photographs with much less chance of people noticing what you are doing.

Emotion and gesture

Emotion and Gesture in Street photography

One of the keys to creating interesting street photography is showing emotion and feeling in your images. One of the best ways to do that is to capture those emotions and feelings in your subjects.

Pay attention to the looks in peoples’ eyes or the gestures in their bodies. Try to see who is walking around wearing their emotions on their sleeves, so to speak.

I would rather photograph a non-descript person with incredible emotion over the flashiest person just walking down the street emotionless.

Getting closer

Getting Closer for Street Photography

This is a general tip for improving most photography, but it is especially difficult for street photography. The closer you get, the more intimate your moments will feel.

But you don’t have to put so much pressure on yourself at first. Start from further back and over time, work to get closer and closer. This is a process that can take a little time to get comfortable with.

Spontaneity and intuition

Everything a Beginner Should Know to Improve Their Street Photography
1/250th at F9, ISO 3200

At some point, you need to become fast with your camera to capture some of those split-second moments. Embrace your intuition and work to become spontaneous and fast with the camera.

You will miss a lot of photographs this way and come back with a lot of bad ones (why editing is so important), but the special photographs will be special.

If you feel that there is the potential for a great photograph in your gut, just stop thinking and go for it. The worst that can happen is you will delete the photograph later on.

Imperfection

Imperfection in Street Photography

Unlike some other forms of photography, perfection is not celebrated as much in street photography. We’re looking for real and unplanned moments, and these moments are not perfect.

Sometimes the best way to improve your street photography is to just loosen up.

What matters is that the photograph is interesting and it looks good. Everything else is gravy. If the photograph has those qualities, who cares if it’s skewed, a little blurry, highlights are blown out, or if there’s an element in the way. That’s the real world.

Sometimes these aspects will ruin your photograph, of course, but just as often they’ll ground the moment in reality.

Photograph in busy and quiet places

Improve Street Photography

As you are learning and getting comfortable, it’s very important to practice in busy places with a lot of foot traffic. This gives you many chances for great photographs and it’s easier to work in a candid way as well. This is how to work out the kinks and develop your technical skills and overall awareness.

But it is equally important to photograph in slower and quieter areas too.

These areas can be just as interesting and even more so than the busiest areas. It can take some time to get used to photographing here and figuring out what makes a good photograph, but you will be much better off for trying.

Conclusion – take photos for yourself

Improve Street Photography

Street photography is about taking something that is internal, capturing it in the real world, and then showing those ideas in your work.

It’s not worth taking photographs that you think other people will find interesting. Ultimately, your work can only become so good that way.

Shoot what you think is the most interesting and forget about everyone else. Over time this is how you will develop a strong and distinct voice.

And most importantly, get out there and shoot as often as you can. That is the real way to improve your street photography.

Do you have any other tips to improve street photography that you’d like to share? Please do so in the comments, along with any street photos you’d like to share.

The post Everything a Beginner Should Know to Improve Their Street Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.


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The Canon EOS R6 Will Have Dual Card Slots, 20 FPS Shooting

23 Mar

The post The Canon EOS R6 Will Have Dual Card Slots, 20 FPS Shooting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Canon EOS R6 Rumors - The Canon EOS R6 Will Have Dual Card Slots, 20 FPS Shooting

The Canon EOS R5 has been attracting a lot of attention recently with its 45 MP sensor, blazing-fast shooting speeds, and 8K video.

So much attention, in fact, that you’d be forgiven if you weren’t aware of Canon’s other soon-to-drop mirrorless model, the EOS R6.

To be fair, the EOS R6 hasn’t been officially announced by Canon. All the information we have on it comes from rumors, but this type of rumor tends to be pretty accurate, and there’s little doubt that the EOS R6 will debut in 2020.

So what can we expect from this new mirrorless body?

First, the R6 will have a full-frame sensor, but one that packs just 20 MP, making it Canon’s lowest resolution EOS R model to date.

Not that 20 MP is insufficient for most purposes, of course, but it comes as something of a surprise, especially given that Canon’s enthusiast full-frame mirrorless model, the EOS RP, features 26 MP.

Fortunately, a low-resolution sensor can often make way for other features, such as high continuous shooting speeds. On that front, I have good news:

The EOS R6 will shoot up to 12 frames per second using the mechanical shutter and 20 frames per second using the electronic shutter, putting it above many of the action-centric cameras currently on the market. If you’re looking to shoot sports or wildlife, that’s more than enough speed for top-of-the-line images.

The EOS R6 will also offer in-body image stabilization, making it the only Canon mirrorless body, aside from the upcoming R5, to do so.

And if all these specs weren’t interesting enough, we have a new EOS R6 rumor on the docket, suggesting that the camera will offer dual card slots, but will also have an EVF and build quality that can’t match the R5.

So what, exactly, is this camera shaping up to be?

It’s highly likely that Canon engineers are working on a professionally-oriented sports body (often dubbed the EOS R1), but this is almost certainly not it. The lack of a rugged build, plus the lower-resolution electronic viewfinder, suggests that the R6 will be an enthusiast camera rather than a professional one. Plus, I can’t see Canon releasing another 1D-type camera, just a few months after the 1D X Mark III was announced.

Instead, the EOS R6 is shaping up to be a Canon 6D, of sorts. A camera with excellent full-frame image quality, but lacking the durability of a true pro body, and probably limited in other areas (such as customizability).

But note that the EOS R6 is no simple rehash of the 6D series. The presence of in-body image stabilization and ultra-fast shooting speeds suggest that Canon has thoroughly “mirrorlessed” this new model, and the result is likely to make quite a splash.

While the EOS R6’s release date is currently unknown, and the situation with coronavirus is causing production delays, look out for an announcement in May.

Now over to you:

What do you think of the EOS R6 rumors? Who do you think this camera is meant for? Would you be interested? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post The Canon EOS R6 Will Have Dual Card Slots, 20 FPS Shooting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow

22 Mar

The post File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

file management tips in photography

As you gain more clients, this also means that you’ll have to start implementing a more efficient workflow so that you can work quickly and get your images to your clients. In this article, we’re going to explain some file management tips to help you stay organized session to session.

file management tips

What is a photography workflow?

A workflow is a process in which a photographer has a file management system in place that helps them to get images edited and processed faster and more efficiently.

Basically, it’s a way to organize your images so that you can get them to your clients much faster. The way that a photographer manages their workflow can be different from person to person depending on what they photograph, their workloads, and what the end goal for their clients is.

file management tips

In time, you’ll be able to implement these file management tips so that your workflow is quick, and you’re able to deliver the images to your clients faster. You’ll also access the images on your hard drives quicker when you need them because they’ll be nice and organized.

Uploading the images

The first of the file management tips regards uploading your photos to your computer. Some like to go straight into Lightroom or the editing program and upload the images directly.

However, I recommend that you first upload your images onto your actual hard drive. This can be directly onto your computer’s hard drive, an external hard drive, or both. Uploading to both is the best option since sometimes computers can shut down or stop working and you wouldn’t want to lose your photos!

file management tips

Make sure to copy the images from the memory card rather than moving them. Doing this means if the upload didn’t go smoothly, you still have all of the images safe on the memory card.

Here are the steps to organize the Upload of your images onto your computer or external hard drive:

  • Create a folder with the year 2020
  • You can now create separate folders for the types of sessions you do. However, this is not required and it depends on how you want to manage your files.
  • Create a folder and name it according to the shoot date, last name of your client, a dash, then the location or something specific. For example 2020.03.06 Burns Family – Secrets Resort Puerto Vallarta
File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow
File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow

The location is optional, but it does help keep the information to the session together. It’s also good for searching later on when you want to find a location photo to post on social media or otherwise.

Renaming the images

Renaming images can seem like an added step, however, keeping the naming simple with numerical sequence, adds more organization in the end.

It’s tough when looking for an image by the original image name of IMG_ when it would be much quicker to remember the name and then look for an image that way.

file management tips

Rename with the last name, a dash, then the sequence number, for example, Burns-0001. Use more than three zeros so that you can safely number the images when you have more than one hundred images.

If you have more than a thousand, use another zero. This can keep all of your images organized and you won’t get jumping numbers from 01 and 11.

file management tips

When you import the images into your editing program, the renaming stays and will get saved the same when you’re finished editing. This is really helpful especially when the family wants a particular photo to order. They can simply use the sequence number and you can quickly find the image in the edited folder.

Importing into Lightroom

Now that you’ve organized the session into the yearly folder, session folder, and have renamed the files you’re ready to import into Lightroom.

Some photographers like to import the images straight from the memory card into Lightroom but creating the folders seems easier in Finder than in Lightroom. However, with time, you can choose how you want to import the photos that help your workflow work for you.

file management tips
Choose the “add” option a top to import the photos.

There are two different options to choose from when importing. You can simply add the photos, which is the simplest choice seeing that we’ve already backed them up onto your hard drive in the desired folders. Or the COPY option, which will create a duplicate of your image into a specific folder on your desktop. This usually creates a copy in another place and can take up unnecessary storage on your computer.

File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow
Check the box Add to Collection and this window will popup. Name it with the year and shoot date so your catalog stays organized as well within Lightroom.

We’ll go with the ADD option today since we have put the originals in the specific folder we made earlier.

Check the Collection option and put them into a Collection with the date and name – just like we did in the source folder.

File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow

This will make it easier to find the folders in the left sidebar while editing without making multiple duplicates or without getting lost in the Import or Folders section.

File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow

Now we’re ready for editing!

Organized editing

In Lightroom, editing can seem like a lot of work. However, you’ll want to go through this process so that your workflow is quicker and editing time is minimized.

Use the color tags to choose your favorites. This is how I personally tag the photos using the number keys:

  • Number 9 is Blue for chosen images
  • Number 8 is green for additional editing – usually when I have to swap out ahead or do some major editing.
File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow

After you’ve used the color of your choice for the chosen photos, at the bottom of the screen is a Filter option. Choose the blue square (or the colors you’ve chosen), so that all you see are the photos tagged Blue.

The great thing about using the filter and colors is that if you missed a photo somewhere, you can turn off the filter and go back and choose more photos to edit or tag.

File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow
Here at the bottom right-hand corner, you can toggle the color filter to show or not show.

Alternatively, you can untag a photo and it will hide it from view. Then you can just edit the blue-tagged photos without additional clutter.

Using the color tags in the toggle on/off filter modes keeps your photos organized, in the same folder, and easy to edit.

Exporting your final images

The final of the file management tips is exporting your final images.

After you’ve edited your photos it’s now time to keep them organized so that you can find the final edited photos with ease.

Go into the Library window, with the color tag filter ON, choose all of the images you’ve edited with the Select All option, and click Export.

File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow
We have only the blue tagged photos highlighted. Toggle the color filter on, select all images with that filter and then hit Export.

Choose the same folder your images are in, but create a subfolder with the words EDIT (or you can choose whichever name is best for you). This will create a folder within the original source folder on your hard drive.

File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow

This keeps all of the images from that session in the same location, which makes it easier to find later on.

file management tips for better workflow
As you can see, the edit folder appears in the family session folder with the RAW files. The final jpeg images are named the same for easier referencing.

In conclusion

These file management tips will help you categorize and catalog your sessions so that you have a more efficient photography workflow from start to finish.

File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow
When you search for the images you can now do so with the name or date. Makes looking for images much simpler when you have your files organized.

Do you have any other file management tips to better organize your workflow? Share with us in the comments.

The post File Management Tips to Create a More Efficient Photography Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


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Great Photography Ideas for When You Are Stuck Indoors

22 Mar

The post Great Photography Ideas for When You Are Stuck Indoors appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

Great Photography Ideas for When You Are Stuck Indoors featured image

In Australia right now, it’s bushfire season. And this year, it has been a particularly bad one. That means that for a significant part of the Summer so far, I’ve been stuck indoors trying to avoid noxious bush fire smoke. To top it off, now we have the Coronavirus to contend with. Usually, the majority of my photography is based outside. But to keep myself sane, I’ve been busying myself with photography projects around the house. Here are some tried-and-tested photography ideas for when you are stuck indoors.

photography ideas for when you are stuck indoors abstract lines
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Photograph the ordinary

When you’re stuck indoors, it can seem like the subject matter is limited. However, under the eye of the camera, ordinary objects can become extraordinary.

As photographers, we are trained to seek out unusual and distinctive subject matter, so day-to-day objects can fall by the wayside. But responding to the subjects in your immediate environment can offer a new creative perspective, expanding your photographic repertoire.

photography ideas for when you are stuck indoors objects
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Try blurred or unfocused photography

Photographers generally strive to achieve sharply focused images. But if you’re stuck indoors, shifting your technique a little can be a refreshing change. Blurry or deliberately out-of-focus photography can render unexpectedly beautiful results.

During a longer exposure, try physically moving your camera around to cultivate streaks of light. Or, instead of focusing on achieving pin-sharp photographs, switch your camera to manual focus and embrace an intriguing blurry aesthetic.

photography ideas for when you are stuck indoors plant abstract
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Adopt abstraction

Abstract photography is a field of photography that doesn’t rely on objective subject matter. Instead, abstract photographers aim to convey ideas by focusing on the emotive experience of image-making and viewing.

There are plenty of subjects found indoors that you can use to generate abstract images. Try isolating subject matter with macro photography, or focusing in on interesting textured surfaces.

photography tips for when you are stuck indoors color abstract
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Pretty polarization

In terms of photography ideas for when you are stuck indoors, this has to be one of my favorites. This little project involves photographing the stress-points of plastic objects.

While it might not sound particularly exciting, taking photographs of polarized plastic reveals colorful, otherworldly visual attributes in materials that are often taken for granted.

With a polarizing filter, a computer screen and a selection of plastic objects, you can investigate the materials around you in a whole new light. Have a look at the full guide here.

Great Photography Ideas for When You Are Stuck Indoors

Get into physiograms

Another great photography idea for when you are stuck indoors is physiography. Physiography involves recording the movements of a swinging light suspended over a camera during a long exposure. Because the light source needs to be suspended from a sturdy roof or beam and the project needs to be performed in the dark, physiograms are a great photography idea for when you are stuck indoors.

Check out the how-to here.

Great Photography Ideas for When You Are Stuck Indoors
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Switch it up

This photography idea for when you are stuck indoors is a simple one – change it up a bit!

Photography at home can impact your practice in every environment. So, if you are inclined to photograph in color, why not take advantage of your time indoors and practice black and white photography instead?

If you shoot in aperture priority, try switching to shutter priority.

If you are used to shooting landscapes, try focusing on details around the house. Have a go with a lesser-used lens, or even have a go at improving your camera-phone skills.

Study time

Whether it’s online, in a book or a magazine or on a podcast, there is a wealth of information about photography available. Reading up on photography is a great photography idea for when you are stuck indoors. Study new techniques, brush up on your photographic history, revisit camera theory…the options are endless.

Grab a book or kindle etc, settle in and get some knowledge.

photography ideas for when you are stuck indoors study books

Re-visit old photos

If (like me) you have a steadily growing stockpile of digital images that need a little TLC, you’re in luck. Being stuck indoors is a great time to revisit those old files hidden in the depths of your hard drive.

If you aren’t in the mood for photography around the house, editing old photos is a great alternative. Plus, you may find some gems that somehow went under the radar!

Great Photography Ideas for When You Are Stuck Indoors
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Conclusion

Being stuck indoors may seem like a real pain…until you realize the wealth of photographic opportunities around you! Whether it be experimenting with abstraction, polarization, or physiograms, or taking some time-out to study or re-visit old photos, there are plenty of photography ideas for when you are stuck indoors.

The hard bit is choosing which one to try first!

The post Great Photography Ideas for When You Are Stuck Indoors appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Next-Level Selfies – 7 Tips for Creative Self-Portraits (video)

21 Mar

The post Next-Level Selfies – 7 Tips for Creative Self-Portraits (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

Since one of our “At-Home, 7-Day Challenges” is fun selfies, I thought I’d share this video from our friends over at Cooph who give some fun, creative ideas that will take your selfies up a notch.

So, check out the video, get some ideas, then head over to our 7-day challenge page and share your selfie images with us (or share them right here on this page too), as we’d love to see them.

Enjoy!

You may also like:

  • 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
  • Self Portraits – 7 Tips for Going Beyond the Basics
  • A Quick Exercise to Help You Take Better Self-Portraits
  • Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
  • Expand Your Creativity by Taking Self-Portraits
  • 18 Stunning Self Portraits

The post Next-Level Selfies – 7 Tips for Creative Self-Portraits (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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