The post Adobe Announces $ 1M Community Fund to Aid Artists During Pandemic appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
In response to the COVID-19 crisis, Adobe has announced a new Creative Residency Community Fund, designed to “help visual creators stay on track and achieve their dreams.”
The Fund is an offshoot of Adobe’s annual Creative Residency program, which supports several artists over the course of a year. But creatives have been hit hard by the coronavirus pandemic, leading Adobe to look for additional ways to support artists in need.
And so the Creative Residency Community Fund was born. With the support of the Fund, artists can undertake a project of their own or complete a project commissioned by Adobe.
The Fund has been given $ 1 million USD to offer creatives support through mid-2021. Several application deadlines have been established over the next year, and artists will be notified on a rolling basis of their acceptance into the program.
Successful applicants will receive a sum between $ 500 USD and $ 5000 USD to support the project. Applicants will also receive a Creative Cloud membership, in addition to “career guidance workshops.”
For those who are interested in applying, the details can be found on the Adobe website. Note that you must specify up-front whether you’d like to be considered for the personal project or the commissioned project. Your application will ultimately go before a selection committee, which will determine both the success of your application and the funds you’ll be allotted.
Creatives can apply from all over the world, though Adobe does require English proficiency (excepting Japanese applicants). Applicants must also be 18 years or older.
As for the type of project that will be successfully funded:
Adobe explains that they “always consider great projects of all types if they showcase Creative Cloud capabilities,” but will focus on:
Video
Photography
Photo art
Graphic design
Illustration
3D
Motion design
Product or interface design
So if you’re a creative that’s looking to complete a new project, go ahead and apply! The first application deadline is June 1st, though you’ll also have an opportunity to apply in September 2020, December 2020, and March 2021.
The post Adobe Announces $ 1M Community Fund to Aid Artists During Pandemic appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Have you dreamed of a simple yet feature-rich portable camera? Something that’s a step up from compact cameras but still small enough to carry around in your day bag? A camera that will deliver the image quality of an entry-level DSLR without the bulk? Oh, and still be affordable? The Canon m50 mirrorless camera just might be your dream come Continue Reading
The post Why Buy? Canon m50: A Real Review appeared first on Photodoto.
The post Review: Struman Optics Cinematic Lenses for Smartphones appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lee Herbet.
The argument of whether smartphones can take good photos or not has been settled – they can! In this article, we are going to have a look at a set of lenses for smartphones from an Australian company, Struman Optics. While there are many lenses for smartphones on the market, I found a manufacturer that many, including me, had not heard of. Read on to find out how they perform.
I remember Scott Bourne once said on a podcast that when he was shooting a wedding, he had an “Uncle Bob” turn up with a “nicer camera” than his DSLR. And no matter what camera “Uncle Bob” was using, Scott could use his iPhone and still take better images. This was because Scott was a professional photographer with 30 years’ experience, and “Uncle Bob” was, well, “Uncle Bob.”
I totally agree with Scott’s sentiment. It’s the skills and years of experience behind the camera, rather than the camera itself that creates a beautiful image.
Having said that, thanks to the computational power of our smartphones these days, that gap is narrowing.
So, the next stage in this photographic evolution is what accessories we use to make our images from our phones even better.
Shot on iPhone 11 Pro with Struman 18mm wide lens
What are smartphone lenses?
In this article, I want to focus on a set of smartphone lenses I have been testing from Struman Optics. I’ve been trying out various brands for years now to either give me a bit more zoom, a wider shot, or the ever-fun macro function. They were always okay, but not optically amazing.
In the last 3-4 years, that’s changed with some really great glass coming out for smartphones. Unfortunately, you always get what you pay for, so these better lenses do cost a bit more than the cheaper ones we’ve seen over the years. But they’re still not going to break the bank.
The lenses that I’ve been testing over the last two months are Struman Optic’s Cinematic Wide, Cinematic Portrait, and Cinematic Macro lenses.
Struman Optics do make more cost-effective lenses that are more suited to purely photography, but since I am primarily a filmmaker, I got the Cinematic trifecta. Of course, they are great for photos too.
The wide is an 18mm f1.8 equivalent, and the portrait lens is 70mm f1.8 equivalent.
All three lenses attach via what has become a standard screw-on back. The portrait and wide lenses also have a 37mm front, which means you could actually attach standard filters such as a Circular Polarizer or Neutral Density filter.
What’s in the box
Before I go into some of the individual features of the lenses, let’s first look at what they come with. They each come with a travel pouch, cleaning cloth, and phone adapter. Struman Optics do make phone cases that allow you to screw your lens directly on too. I went with that option, but I really like that they have the phone adapter included. That means you can use the lens with any phone or, even dare I suggest it, tablet. (Please people, use your phones as cameras before you use your tablets.)
Using the adapter, which is kind of like a clip, means you could also use the lenses on the front camera of your phone for better quality selfies. ?
Build quality
The lens cases are nicely made. They are not too thick and have a good rubber grippy feeling. The thing that stands out for me is that the screw connection that you screw the lenses into seems to be solid metal. This is good, as I’ve had lens cases from other brands made of less sturdy stuff that breaks on me when trying to attach a lens. This happened to me while I was on a trip to Hong Kong, which meant I couldn’t use those lenses for the rest of the trip. Going by the feel of the Struman cases, it’s unlikely to happen.
Struman Optics lens case
The build of all the lenses is top-notch. They feel solidly made and have an aluminum casing. I appreciate that they come with a back cap as well as a front lens cap. I am not sure about the red ring around them, which I guess is a nod to bigger lenses with red rings. But most people I’ve shown them to have really liked it, so what do I know about design?
Why use them?
One of the first things you may be thinking is, “why would I need these now that most new phone cameras come with 3 lenses: an ultra-wide, a wide and telephoto lens?”
Well, not all lenses are created equal.
For example, the ultra-wide on the iPhone 11 Pro doesn’t feature the pretty amazing low light feature that the wide and telephoto lenses have. So, if you want to take an ultra-wide shot in the dark, you could put the Struman wide on your wide, get the advantage of the low light feature and still have an ultra-wide image.
In the same way that sometimes the tele just isn’t tele enough, adding the portrait lens to the tele gives you even more reach.
One thing to note is that if your phone has an ultra-wide lens, then the lenses will most likely not cover the entire lens as it’s just too wide. You can get some interesting-looking shots with the lenses on the ultra-wide, though, so it may be worth a try!
Shot on iPhone 11 Pro with Struman 18mm wide lens
Finally, that brings us to the macro lens. This has a feature that I’ve asked Struman Optics to add to all of their Cinematic lenses. The macro lens has a focus ring!
Struman Optics 22-82mm Macro lens for smartphones has a focus ring so that you can “pull focus.”
Again, you may be asking, “what do you need a focus ring for when the autofocus on the smartphones is so good?” Well, that’s true, but your autofocus won’t always focus on the thing you want to focus on when you’re super close, such as with a macro shot.
Shot on iPhone 11 Pro with Struman Macro lens
The reason I’d love to have the focus ring on the other two lenses is for when I want to a focus pull when making videos. That’s when you adjust your focus from one subject in your shot to another.
Autofocus can do that, but you can’t tell the autofocus how fast or slow to do it, so having that focus ring would be great for that type of creative control in video.
One thing to be aware of is that if your phone has more than one lens, then you may have to use a third-party photo app to force the camera to use the phone lens that has your external lens attached. A few of these apps are Procam, Halide and Manual – all have their pros and cons.
Both the wide and portrait cinema lenses are $ 249 AUD and the macro is $ 199 AUD. Struman Optics also has a series of cheaper lenses focused more on pure photography. They are available from their website www.strumanoptics.com.au, and, yes, they ship all over the world.
Have you used these or any other lenses for smartphones? How have you found them? Let us know in the comments section!
Shot on iPhone 11 Pro with Struman zoom lensShot on iPhone 11 Pro with Struman 18mm wide lens
The post Review: Struman Optics Cinematic Lenses for Smartphones appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lee Herbet.
The post 5 Post-Processing Effects to Instantly Enhance Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Do you want some quick and easy ways to improve your images with post-processing effects?
Look no further.
Because this article will give you 5 excellent post-processing effects to take your photos to the next level, instantly. And best of all: You can use them in pretty much any editing program and on pretty much any photo!
Sound good?
Let’s dive right in.
1. Increase the contrast and saturation for more powerful photos
This effect is extremely easy, and yet sometimes easy is best:
Boost the contrast.
And then boost the saturation.
Because here’s the thing:
Most photos suffer from a lack of tonal contrast and a lack of color richness. This makes the photos look flat. They look uninteresting. They’re, well, boring.
But they can be quickly and easily spiced up…
…by doing a little work with the contrast and saturation sliders.
This image required a bit of a saturation and contrast boost before it really popped.
Note that pretty much every photo editing program offers both of these options in a basic form, though, you can choose to selectively edit tones and colors, as well. And while there’s definitely value in doing more careful tonal editing (via a curves adjustment, for instance), I like to start with the basic contrast slider. It gives me a sense of what the contrast will do to my image, and it’s a great starting point.
The same is true of the saturation slider. Sure, it’s possible to do more advanced adjustments by selecting individual colors. But it’s not necessary for this editing step. Instead, just push up the saturation slider a tad, and see how it looks.
Now, when working with the saturation slider, you do have an alternative:
Vibrance.
Vibrance is a smart saturation. It enhances colors by selectively saturating colors that are less saturated, while also leaving skin tones alone. So if you’re hoping for a more subtle look, the vibrance slider may be the way to go.
I boosted both the contrast and vibrance to make this image stand out.
(In fact, feel free to try both. There’s no reason not to experiment!)
At the end of the day, it pays to start with basic edits (such as contrast and saturation). Just a little bit of editing can go a long way!
2. Pull up the darker tones for a nice cinematic fade
This is one of my favorite editing effects, however, it’s very easy to overdo (so be careful).
It’ll give you a faded, cinematic look, like this:
Start by accessing your tone curve, and placing points at the center and toward the bottom left:
Then carefully drag up the end point, watching the darkest areas of your photo as you do.
When you do this right, the deepest blacks in your photos will lighten, giving you a beautiful fade.
You can also experiment with the amount you actually pull up the tone curve (the more you pull, the stronger the effect). And you can try pulling down the tone curve just before the leftmost edge, to create a more contrast-heavy look:
The key is to experiment and see what you can come up with. No look is necessarily better than the others, just different. So test out many possibilities; you can even create presets out of your favorites.
3. Split tone with blues in the shadows and gold in the highlights
Split toning is all the rage in photography these days, especially with more fashion and portrait-focused photography (though you can definitely use split toning in landscape, street, and most other forms of photography). The idea is that you add different colors into the highlights and the shadows, giving a more creative feel to the image.
Here’s the split-toned look:
Do you see how the shadows are slightly bluer, and the highlights are slightly gold? While this is a look that is often overused, it can be a great addition to your photos when used with restraint.
In fact, I recommend you use the split tone I’ve previewed above as a starting point:
Blue shadows, gold highlights.
From there, you can start experimenting with other split tone options: yellow shadows, green highlights, orange shadows, teal highlights, even pink highlights, blue shadows (and so much more!).
Many of the best split tones use complementary colors (colors that sit opposite one another on the color wheel). Complementary colors contrast heavily with one another, which adds impact and depth to your photos, hence the popularity of those split-tone combinations. But bear in mind that you can also use analogous colors, which sit next to one another on the color wheel and bring a sense of harmony to your photos (blue and green are a great example).
In fact, the key to split toning is to think about the mood you want to evoke, and then choose color combinations that convey that mood!
Note that split toning is offered by most editing programs, but it may be a bit difficult to find. For instance, Lightroom puts its split toning panel just above the Detail module:
Once you’ve found it, have fun experimenting!
4. Selectively saturate the blues and greens for added impact
I’m a huge fan of selective color editing.
Why?
Because it allows you to both simplify and enhance the composition, which results in better, more powerful compositions overall.
Plus, it can just look plain cool.
Generally speaking, it can pay to selectively saturate the colors of your subject, especially if your subject is struggling to stand out against a colorful backdrop.
(Note that you can also desaturate the background colors, or even do both at once for an enhanced effect.)
But for a really neat effect, I recommend you focus on two specific colors:
Blues and greens.
That’s what I did for the image below:
You see, blues and greens tend to look really, really good when saturated more deeply. They’re not close to skin tones, so you don’t have to worry about messing up portrait shots. And they’re mostly in the background, so they just add a bit of pizzazz to your photos.
Of course, saturating blues and greens won’t always look good. There are situations where it just won’t work.
But generally speaking, richer blues and greens will serve to enhance your photos.
Now, to do selective color adjustments, you’ll need to work with individual colors. In Lightroom, this requires using the HSL sliders in the Develop module.
Just remember:
Don’t saturate just to saturate. Instead, do it if it improves your photos. Saturated blues and greens are nice, but only to a point. As with any good post-processing effect, don’t get carried away!
5. Use exposure gradients to add depth to your photos
Exposure gradients aren’t difficult to pull off, but many photographers never bother to learn how to create them.
Which is absolutely a mistake, because exposure gradients can take your photo from boring to life-like in two seconds flat.
First things first:
An exposure gradient simply lightens or darkkens a part of your photo in gradient fashion. So the effect gradually dissipates as it moves across your photo. Like this:
Now, this may seem like a silly effect, but think about what you could do if you put the gradient in the corner, just below where the sun sat in the sky. You’ll get an artistic, flare-like result.
Neat, right?
You can get even better results by warming up the gradient. That way, the light is slightly golden:
Flare-like effects are cool, but my favorite thing about gradients is how they add depth to images. The gradient gives an element of three-dimensionality that’s hard to produce otherwise, and for that reason alone, gradients are worth trying out.
Here’s the bottom line:
While you won’t always end up using the exposure gradient in your final image, it’s often worth a try. Because gradients can make a huge difference to your photos.
Plus, they’re very cool!
5 post-processing effects to instantly enhance your photos: Conclusion
Hopefully, you now feel like you can do a lot with post-processing, even if editing isn’t your strong suit.
And, as I said, these effects aren’t actually hard to use. Just give yourself a bit of time to learn how to produce the effects, then start practicing.
You’ll soon be processing gorgeous photos!
Do you have any other post-processing effects tips you’d like to share? If so, please share them with us in the comments. We’d also love to see your post-processing effects results, so feel free to share those too.
If you are interested in further post-processing tips, why not try out Jim Hamel’s Lightroom course.
The post 5 Post-Processing Effects to Instantly Enhance Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The post Creative Photography Exercises to do at Home (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.
If you are stuck at home and bored, why not try some of these great creative photography exercises to get you upping your photography skills and relieving your boredom at the same time?
You can do so with this great video from our friends over at Cooph, who have gone to the effort of compiling some of their great at-home creative photography exercises into one video.
Some of the techniques include:
Photography with Food and drinks – using things like coffee, avocados and more.
Kitchen Views – inside the fridge, using your sink, dishes and cutlery. Using your cupboards as black boxes. Explore food coloring and dish soap.
Make funky installations – use projections from your computer onto people or objects and photograph them. Use colored gels on your camera or lighting gear.
Office visions – Use a lens ball and text, use office items in an unusual way. Draw your own props to photograph.
So try out some of these exercises and share your results with us in the comments below!
You may also like:
7 Ideas for Creative Lens Ball Photography
Stunning Photo Ideas Using Coffee
6 Methods to Create Dynamic in Your Photography
Challenge Yourself by Photographing One Object
5 Fun Tips for Photographing Water
10 Photography Projects You Can Work on From Home
Stuck at Home? – Ways Still Life Photography Can Keep Your Skills Sharp
10 Things You Can Photograph in Your Home
Exploring Your Home with Close-Up Filters
The dPS At-Home 7-Day Photography Challenge – Week Four
The post Creative Photography Exercises to do at Home (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.
Get creative and by photographing in your fridge. You can use macro, or wide shots. You can leave things in your fridge or take them out and photograph them in a different scenario. Whichever way you choose to go, be creative, and tell your story.
Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.
Tips for photographing IN THE FRIDGE
Stuck at Home? – Ways Still Life Photography Can Keep Your Skills Sharp
Simple Methods for Creating Better Still Life Images
Creative Macro Photography – A Guide to Freelensing
Five Ways to Take Your Macro Photography to the Next Level
Reverse Lens Macro: How to use it as a Great Learning Tool
6 Still Life Photography Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Food Photography – When to Use Natural Light (and When Not To)
The dPS Ultimate Guide to Food Photography
Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.
Share in the dPS Facebook Group
You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.
If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSintheFridge to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.
The post Weekly Photography Challenge – In the Fridge appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.
The post Facebook Announces Secure Transfer of Photos/Videos from Facebook to Google Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
If you need a way to quickly move all your media from Facebook to Google Photos, then you’re in luck.
As of this past Thursday, you can transfer photos and videos from Facebook straight over to Google Photos.
For those who are unfamiliar:
Google Photos is the default photo application on Android devices, but it’s also available for Apple users. It’s a great way to store photos of all types, including smartphone shots, personal snaps, portfolio images, and more.
In fact, the app features essentially unlimited storage capacity (though there are caps on file sizes). Since Google Photos uses cloud storage, you can view stored images from all of your devices, as well as on the web (at photos.google.com).
As for the Facebook integration:
In just a few clicks, you’ll be able to take photos you’ve uploaded to Facebook and copy them on over to Google Photos.
Why is this so useful?
For one, Google Photos packs an excellent search function. So you’ll be able to navigate through your photos more quickly on Google Photos versus Facebook.
Google Photos also includes advanced photo organization capabilities that Facebook lacks, so you can carefully catalog and curate thousands of images with ease.
Now, if you’re interested in using this transfer function, just follow a few simple steps.
(Note that the process is slightly different on desktop versus mobile, but the general path is the same.)
First, head over to your Facebook “Settings.”
On mobile, scroll down until you find “Transfer a Copy of Your Photos or Videos,” and select this option. On a desktop, you’ll need to click on “Your Facebook Information.”
Then select “Transfer a Copy of Your Photos or Videos.”
Facebook will prompt you to enter your password. Then you’ll be asked to select a destination for your photos; right now, Google Photos is the only choice, but Facebook has indicated an interest in adding additional options in the future.
You’ll also need to indicate whether you want to transfer your photos or your videos. Note that you can always start with photos but come back and transfer videos later.
Hit “Next.” You may be asked to enter your Google Photos password and, once done, you’ll need to confirm that you wish to transfer your media.
Finally, click “Confirm Transfer”, and you’re done!
So for anyone looking to add Facebook images to Google Photos, go ahead and try this function out!
But, as always, also read the fine print and see if there are any privacies or image rights you may be giving when integrating these options.
The post Facebook Announces Secure Transfer of Photos/Videos from Facebook to Google Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The post Sparkling Water Still Life – Put some Fizz in your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
Often the key to making a good photo is to show the commonplace in a whole new way. Bombarded by so many visual images each day, photo viewers need something that breaks the rules, that looks different to make them pause on your photo. This sparkling water still life technique will challenge your photo skills. It will teach you how to compose and light still life subjects, give you practice with editing tools and techniques, and help you create interesting images. Maybe best of all, you’ll have some fun.
Strongly backlit and filled with flash, these tulips were shot submerged in a vase of sparkling water. The image was flipped vertically in post-production. Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm f2.8macro lens – 1/20 sec. f/11 ISO 200
Perhaps another plus to this kind of photography (I write this holed up at home during isolation), is it can be done at home on the kitchen counter or wherever you like to work. You can then post your creation online, giving us all the enjoyment of viewing your image.
Shall we get started? Break out the bubbly!
Citrus slices make good subjects for this kind of photography as they look like they belong in sparkling water. Sliced thin, they are translucent, lending themselves to backlighting. Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – Left – 1/4 sec. f/22 ISO 800 Right 1/30 sec. f/8 ISO 800This image was lit from below with an LED flashlight and from behind with a Lumecube Air.
What you’ll need
Sparkling water
You can use various kinds of carbonated waters or sodas (perhaps champagne if you’re feeling decadent). What you’re after are the bubbles. There are no rules here and so use what suits your vision.
For the images here, I found seltzer water well-suited to the purpose. It is crystal-clear, has good carbonation, and with no sugar added doesn’t leave a sticky mess when it comes time for cleanup.
The colored pencils were taped together, clamped to the rectangular vase, and lit from below with an LED flashlight.
Glass container
What you use will depend on the image you’re trying to create. I found a rectangular glass vase with flat sides well-suited for the purpose. A small aquarium could work well.
Of course, if the subject and the theme you seek are different, wine or champagne glasses could work too. The only consideration here is to think about how the glass may distort anything placed inside it.
Essentially the same shot, but substituting different color backgrounds for different looks. Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – 1/10 sec. f/11 ISO 800
Subjects
There is no end to the items you might choose to submerge for a sparkling water still life photograph. I found that things that seem consistent with the theme to be good choices. The kinds of things one might find in a watery-bubbly environment.
Fruits and flowers can be good choices. You’ll also see I used shells and other aquatic items. Of course, other items with good color and interest become even more interesting covered with bubbles.
A quick dip into some science behind all of this – items with rougher surfaces, those with more nucleation sites where bubbles can form, can be more interesting. The flowers in my shots demonstrate this concept. Bubbles won’t form as easily on smoother, non-porous surfaces.
The surfaces of the roses and stem have many “nucleation sites” where the CO2 bubbles in the seltzer water can form. Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – 1/30 sec. f/8 ISO 800
Cleanliness
Most often, you will be shooting close-up, very possibly with a macro lens, for this kind of photography. The smallest of items, scratches, and dirt on the glass container, dirt and other material suspended in the water and such, will all show up and perhaps even become places where bubbles might form.
You should scrupulously clean the container you will be using before you get started. Doing so will save you lots of time later trying to remove unwanted specks from your photo digitally.
These shots illustrate some difficulties you might have. The image on the left is straight out of camera. The slow shutter speed of 1/10th second was insufficient to freeze the motion of the bubbles leaving streaks. The starfish was buoyant and floated in the container which wasn’t large enough to allow it to fit fully in frame. The image at right is edited to remove some distractions, but this wasn’t going to be a keeper. Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – 1/10 sec. f/22 ISO 800
Setup
Using your cleaned container, place the subject(s) you want inside before adding any liquid. Consider whether the subjects will float. Even if they are just slightly buoyant, once they are covered with bubbles, they are apt to get some extra lift. Be ready with some clamps, wire, tape, or other means of keeping them submerged and where you want them.
Compose and frame your shot. Depending on the subject size and how close you need to be, you may find a macro lens is needed. Other alternatives could be extension tubes, close-up filters, or a reversed-lens.
If you don’t need to be as close, you might put your camera further away and zoom into the shot.
NOTE: Do all of this before adding the water to the container. The bubbles will dissipate with time and you don’t want that happening while you’re still setting up.
Different containers will change the look of your subject, but the curved glass of this glass does distort the image the liquid in the submerged portion of the rose magnifies it making it seem larger than the above-water portion of the flower and the curve of the glass adds other distortions. Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – 1/2 sec. f/20 ISO 800
Lighting considerations
This image shows lighting from below with a LED flashlight and from the front with a Lumecube Air.
This is a great opportunity to experiment with lighting sources and techniques.
Working in a glass container gives you the opportunity to light from almost any direction; top, bottom, front, back, left, right, or a combination of these. Whether you use flash, continuous lights, natural lighting, whatever you can come up with – it’s all up to you.
Definitely use this exercise as an opportunity to play and explore. Digital film is cheap. This shouldn’t be a one-and-done kind of shoot. Make lots of shots, exploring lighting placement, various apertures and shutter speeds, light modifiers, whatever you like.
Same subject, front-lit on the left, back-lit on the right. Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – 1/13 sec. f/22 ISO 800Same image, different backgrounds. Experiment with different things! Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – 1/10 sec. f/11 ISO 800
Backgrounds
The addition of bubbles to your subject will cause it to become a “busier” composition. Having a patterned background is apt to distract or overly complicate the image.
I find solid backgrounds, and often plain white or black to work best. (I’ll get into the advantages of those simple white or black backgrounds in a minute.) Again, this will depend on the look you are trying to achieve, but do give consideration to not only your subject but the background.
Canon 6D with Tamron 90mm macro lens – 1/13 sec. f/16 ISO 800
Editing and cleanup
I can almost guarantee your image will need some work in editing after the shoot. Simplifying and cleaning up things you don’t want will be necessary.
Adjusting highlights, shadows, white and black levels, and cloning out distractions will all improve your photo. Whatever your editing tools of choice might be, use this exercise as a means of teaching yourself more about what you can do and how to do it.
My tools of choice are Adobe Lightroom Classic and Photoshop.
Having a white or black background can help a lot in that with adjustments, the adjustment brush, the histogram highlight and shadow clipping tools, and the spot healing tool, I can often do whatever I need in Lightroom alone.
For tougher cloning or healing operations, I may escalate the edit into Photoshop.
Images with color backgrounds are apt to be more challenging. Again, use this exercise as a means of learning tools and techniques you might not have previously explored.
When editing an image in Lightroom with a black or white background, you may purposely want to have the background go totally black or white. Turning on the highlight/shadow clipping tools will show 100% black (0,0,0) areas in a blue highlight, totally white (255,255,255) areas in red. The “J” key is the shortcut to toggle this off and on. You can then use the adjustment brush, automask, and other LR to “paint out” distracting elements.
Flip it
Often while making a sparkling water still life, your subject will be down in the liquid. Don’t overlook the simple ability to flip your image vertically during editing to put it in a more natural viewing position.
Have fun!
Maybe the biggest reason for this table-top photo exercise is it is fun. You will be amazed at how you can make otherwise simple subjects much more visually exciting with the addition of some bubbles and creative lighting when you make sparkling water still life photos.
So, if you have to stay home, why not find ways to creatively use your time to expand your photo skills and make some nice images?
Give it a try, post your creations in the comments section of this article and be well my friends.
The post Sparkling Water Still Life – Put some Fizz in your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
The post How to Create Mandalas in Photoshop Using Stack Modes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
There are so many facets to Photoshop that even regular users can sometimes be surprised by new ways to use particular features. Stack Modes is one of the tools in the Photoshop repertoire that I’ve only just started really playing with recently. And, it turns out, the function is great for generating intricate patterns and even mandala-like designs. In this tutorial, I’ll guide you through the steps to create mandalas in Photoshop with Stack Modes.
Can I use Stack Modes?
First things first – unfortunately, Stack Modes aren’t available in all versions of Photoshop. For this tutorial, I’m going to be using Photoshop CS6 Extended. Doing a little research, it looks like Extended and CC versions of Photoshop have the stack mode function. However, if you don’t have the Stack Modes tool required for this tutorial, you can try creating something a little similar here.
What are Stack Modes?
So what exactly are Stack Modes?
The Stack Modes function works by combining a group of image layers with similar content into the one image. For example, astrophotographers may use Stack Modes to combine hundreds of shots into one frame.
Stack Modes can also be used to reduce noise and remove people and objects from photos. It’s a pretty nifty function!
What are mandalas?
Throughout history, mandalas have seen numerous incarnations and applications. Meaning circle in Sanskrit, mandalas are a geometric array of symbols and designs made for spiritual, meditative and artistic purposes.
In modern terminology, mandala is a phrase sometimes used to describe other circular visual arrangements like spirographs and scientific diagrams. The term mandala may also be used to describe the meditative or visual quality of an artwork.
How to create mandalas in Photoshop with Stack Modes
Setting up
To create mandalas in Photoshop, the first step is to pick a single photograph to work with. Something with a few colors and small details is a good bet. I’m going with the flower seen below:
Open your image in Photoshop and right-click on the image layer in the Layers Panel. Select Duplicate Layer… and click OK at the prompt.
Select the Background layer in the Layers Panel (not Background copy) and hit Delete.
Next, click on Image on the top toolbar. Select Canvas Size… and (roughly) double the height and width of your canvas so we have room to expand the design.
Click OK.
Adjusting layers
Drag your image to the top of the canvas. Right-click on your image layer in the Layers Panel and select Duplicate Layer… hit OK at the prompt.
With the Move Tool selected, click on the image on the canvas to select it (one layer will be behind the other).
Hold the Shift key on your keyboard down and drag the selected image by the top-middle transform control icon towards the bottom of the canvas, flipping the image to mirror the remaining photograph so it looks like this:
Select both layers by depressing the Shift key and clicking on each layer in the Layers Panel.
Right-click on either layer icon and select Merge Layers. The two layers will merge into one. Drag the merged image to the left edge of the canvas.
Right-click on the layer in the layers panel and hit Duplicate Layer… and Click OK at the prompt. Hold down the Shift key and click the left-most transform icon and drag the duplicated layer towards the right edge of the canvas, flipping the second layer to mirror the first. Like in the example below:
Making room
We have a pretty cool image now, but we aren’t finished yet!
To create mandalas in Photoshop, we need to extend the canvas further to accommodate the rest of the layers we will be making.
Click on Image->Canvas Size… and add an extra hundred-or-so cm’s to the height and width of the image. Don’t worry if the canvas looks too large, we can always crop it back down once the mandala is finished.
Back to layers
Okay. In the expanded canvas, select our two layers by holding Shift and clicking on both layers in the Layers Panel. Right-click and select Merge Layers.
Next, right-click on the merged layer and click Duplicate Layer… Click OK at the prompt. Hold down the Shift Key and rotate this newly created layer to form a cross-like structure.
Duplicate one of the layers again and rotate it so that it looks like mine below:
Duplicate the layer again and rotate it so that your image looks like this:
You can continue adding layers with the duplicate/rotate process until you are happy with the look of your image, or you can leave it as is.
When you are ready, select all the layers in the Layers Panel by holding Shift and clicking on the first and then the last layer in the Layers panel. Right-click on the selection and select Convert to Smart Object. This will combine your layers into a single Smart Object.
Making the mandala happen
With all this duplicating and rotating, the final step to creating mandalas in Photoshop is pretty straight forward. With your Smart Object layer selected, click Layer (in the top tool bar) then click on Smart Objects->Stack Modes. A range of options like Entropy and Kurtosis will become available.
You can look up the exact mathematics behind each setting here, but basically, each option is an algorithm that blends the layers together a different way. Select one and see how it looks…and if you don’t like it, simply undo it and try a different mode.
Here’s my result using the Maximum Stack Mode:
The result from using the Maximum Stack Mode
Final touches
Now you have your mandala, the rest is up to you! You can adjust the colors of your creation or increase/decrease the contrast…you can even invert the colors via the Curves Adjustment Layer and see what that looks like.
You can create mandalas in Photoshop forever – the possibilities are endless! It’s a great opportunity to experiment and explore.
If you’ve created a mandala with this method, go ahead and share below!
The post How to Create Mandalas in Photoshop Using Stack Modes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
The post 5 Tips for Doing Photography While Social Distancing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Are you having a hard time doing photography while social distancing?
Do you need some help determining what and how to photograph during these difficult times?
90mm | f/2.8 | 1/320s | ISO 320
You’ve come to the right place.
Because as hard as it is to deal with the current situation, there are still photographic opportunities everywhere.
You just have to know how to see them!
So if you’re looking to capture some great images, even now…
…read on.
1. Go on walks and photograph the scenery
Plenty of countries are currently in full lockdown, which means that you can only leave your home for exercise.
But while you’re out walking, why not take some pictures?
Obviously, don’t approach people on the street or linger too long in one place.
But there are plenty of gorgeous parks out there where you can capture some stunning landscapes as you walk along.
An image taken on a recent walk. Canon EF 24-70mm f4L lens|70mm| f/8.0| 1/20s| ISO 200
And if you don’t live near a park, just go for a walk around your neighborhood! Take some photos of trees waving in the sunlight, of flowers starting to bloom in gardens, and more.
The opportunities are endless. The key is to be open to more unusual, spontaneous images.
By the way, I’d recommend using a telephoto lens for this, such as a 70-200mm zoom; that way, you can stay on paths and avoid approaching houses and other people.
I’d also recommend going out at sunrise or sunset, when the light is warm and golden. That way, you can capture gorgeous skies, gorgeous clouds, and just take in the beautiful world.
2. Capture gorgeous macro photos in the garden
It’s now officially spring in the Northern Hemisphere.
With spring comes flowers, and with flowers comes the potential for beautiful macro shots.
Get your closest-focusing lens, or a dedicated macro lens if you have one, and go out into your garden.
You can easily photograph flowers like these in the garden! Nikon 60mm f2.8 lens | 60mm| f/5.0| 1/200| ISO 320
Look for flowers, and try to capture some beautiful colors, textures, and even more abstract flora shots.
I recommend doing macro photography on cloudy days, because the diffused light will help bring out flower colors.
I also recommend getting down low, on a level with your subject, so you can portray the world from a more intimate perspective.
By the way, if you don’t have any flowers, that’s okay!
You can still photograph plants, trees, buds, or even weeds. The beauty of macro photography is that there are subjects everywhere.
3. Spend time creating a studio in your home
If you’re like me, you’ve always wanted to create a photography studio in your home.
But you just haven’t had the time.
Imagine what you could do with a studio (after all the social distancing is over, that is!).
You could do portrait photoshoots.
You could do pet photoshoots.
You could create all sorts of still life setups.
You could do high-speed photos of balloons popping, or of colored water, or of products, or of food…
Really, you can do tons with a proper studio.
A home studio is great for capturing photos of pets! 55mm| f/6.3| 1/160s | ISO 250
So why not set it up now, while you’re stuck at home?
Here’s what you need:
First, some sort of backdrop. A black tablecloth will work just fine for many purposes, but you can also use a large, white slab of cardboard, a proper photography backdrop (these can be purchased online), or even an interesting wall.
Next, you’ll want at least one light source. You can use natural light, in which case you should simply position your studio near a window (ideally with the window light coming from slightly in front of your setup, so you have light falling on your subject from the front and side).
You can also use artificial light, which is what I’d recommend; this gives you more options and limits you less in terms of shooting on poorly-lit days and at night.
If you do go with artificial light, you’re going to want several speedlights at the very least. I recommend two for beginners, though three is also a good number, and one is adequate if you’d like to keep costs down. These speedlights will need to be held up with light stands, so you’ll want a couple of those.
You’ll also need light modifiers. Options here include umbrellas, softboxes, diffusers, snoots, and more. Though I’d recommend going with a couple of basic umbrellas because these are great for softening the light and easy for beginners to get the hang of.
Last, if you’re doing any sort of product or still life photography, you’re going to want a table. A simple wooden option works well, and it doesn’t have to look new. A bit of texture can make your product shots and still lifes even more interesting!
And speaking of still life photography:
4. Level up your still life photography skills
If you’ve ever considered pursuing still life photography, now is a great time.
You can do still lifes with a studio setup, as discussed above.
Or you can do still lifes without much of anything, except a few subjects, some window light, a table, and a wall.
The latter method is practically free, and it can result in stunning shots. So it’s a great way to get started with still life work over the next few months.
For basic still life subjects, fruit is a great choice (I’m partial to pears and apples, but you can use basically anything).
Flowers, including cut flowers you can grab when checking out at the grocery store, are an excellent option, as well.
In fact, you can do all sorts of cool photography with flowers or fruit. While it’s possible to do classic still lifes, you can also do more abstract shots, like this:
This type of black background, illuminated flower setup is something you can work on when doing still life photography. Canon EF 100mm f2.8L Macro | 100mm | f/2.8 | 1/100s | ISO 200
Given the current situation, I don’t recommend taking trips to the store just to buy still life subjects.
But if you’re already at the store, there’s not much harm in grabbing a couple of extra apples or a bouquet of flowers.
And, by the way:
You can also do still life photography using objects you find in your home.
Objects such as bowls, plates, silverware, vases, jugs, antiques, and much more.
So don’t feel like you have to go out into the world to get subjects. Some of the best subjects are right in the house with you!
5. Get to know your camera while stuck inside
Cameras are complicated.
Which means that there are probably things you don’t know about them, but should be familiar with if you want to capture the best possible photos.
So, whenever you get the chance, I recommend you turn on your camera and explore.
Start with all the external buttons. Do you know what they can all do?
Then dig into the menu items. Scan over every single option.
While getting to know my camera, I snap a lot of random pictures to test out functions. This is one of my most recent ones! Canon EOS R | Canon 24-70 f4 lens | 70mm| f/4.0 | 1/160s | ISO 3200
And as soon as you hit something you’re not sure about, or you’re not completely familiar with…
…look it up.
(You can use your camera manual, or you can just do a quick Google search.)
If it’s an especially useful feature, then make a note. And ensure that, the next time you get a chance to do some photography, you try it out.
Make sense?
And by the way, every camera is different. So if you have multiple cameras, I recommend you follow this tip for each and every one of them.
That way, when things are better, you’ll feel much more at home with your camera.
Conclusion
Hopefully, these tips will help you continue to improve your photography while social distancing.
Because while things are tough, it really is possible to keep up your photography!
So good luck, and stay safe! And, as always, share your photos with us in the comments section!
The post 5 Tips for Doing Photography While Social Distancing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
You must be logged in to post a comment.