Category: Photography

  • Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool – What it is and How to Use it

    The post Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool – What it is and How to Use it appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

    photoshop-elements-2020-smile-tool

    You’ve likely faced that frustrating moment when you can’t get kids or families to smile for a portrait. Maybe it’s even worse and you make people grumpier when you try to take their picture. If you look through your photos and wish there were more smiles, the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool can help with that.

    You can retouch facial expressions and not have to be intimidated by the process anymore. Photoshop Elements 2020 (a simplified version of Photoshop) allows you to put a smile on faces using a simple slider tool.

    Let’s look at how this tool works and the best situations to use it.

    frown portrait

    Photoshop Elements claims that the Smile Tool can turn a frown upside down. Let’s see if it really works that well.

    What is the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool?

    Photoshop Elements is a simplified version of Photoshop. Adobe has introduced many automations that make Photoshop’s essential tools easier to use. Photoshop Elements gives you the power of Photoshop without the overwhelming number of complicated features found in the full Photoshop program.

    The Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool allows you to easily put a smile on your subjects face using a slider rather than the usual complicated tools.

    So, if you’ve made a mess of faces with the liquify tool, this will give you better results!

    Before and after editing portrait facial features

    It took less than 10 seconds to enhance his smile.

     

    Who is the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool for?

    The Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool is for you if you want the power of Photoshop to retouch smiles without the learning curve of Photoshop’s many tools.

    If you’re hoping that you won’t have to make people smile anymore because you can “just fix it in post,” this tool isn’t for you.

    Think of this tool as an insurance policy. If you fail to make your subject smile for real, there is hope that this tool can help. But you should try your best to get a good smile in the first place.

    How does the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool work?

    This tool is very simple to use.

    1. Open your photo in Photoshop Elements 2020.
    2. Go to the Enhance dropdown menu.
    3. Then go to Adjust Facial Features.

    Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool

    Photoshop Elements will auto-detect your subject’s face.

    The Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool is now available as a slider on the right-hand panel.

    You’re ready to adjust the overall smile and even make fine detail improvements to the lips, eyes, nose, and face shape.

    But before you get too excited, you should keep your adjustments as small and subtle as possible. You can too easily distort a face.

    photoshop elements smile tool auto detect

    The tool has no problem detecting a face that takes up a significant portion of the frame. But it does have trouble detecting small faces, especially in a group photo.

    How well does the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool work?

    Adobe claims that you can transform frowns into smiles. Will it really work that well for you?

    Let me give you a spoiler. No, the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool won’t transform a frown into a smile. At least I couldn’t figure out how to do it.

    Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool

    I brought up the corners of his lips, which produced only a hint of positivity in his mouth. His eyes have also been enlarged. But how do you remove the furrowed brow? You can’t. It’s too late to fix this smile in post-production. The right moment to fix this smile was the moment the photo was being taken.

     

    Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool

    Again, even after extensive use of the tool, there is very little difference between these two photos. It takes more than upturning the mouth to make a frowny face look happy.

    What if you start with a neutral face?

    You can not fix a frown with the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool. But when you begin with neutral emotion the results are more impressive.

    Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool

    The first photo looks more serious, while the second has a small smile. Moving the slider too far seemed to produce a very fake-looking smile.

     

    Before and after editing a head and shoulders portrait

    Again, the tool works well when beginning with neutral emotion and adding a subtle smile.

    Sometimes it won’t detect a face

    While experimenting with different photos, I discovered that Photoshop Elements will often fail to detect all the faces in group photos. But I found that when I cropped in closer and the faces became more prominent, they could then be detected.

    I had to rotate a newborn photo so that Photoshop Elements would detect the face.

    Error messages when editing portraits

    Perhaps the program can only detect a face when a person is sitting upright.

     

    Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool

    Rotating the photo allowed the program to detect the face.

     

    Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool

    But upturning the lips and enlarging the eyes only produced an awkward expression.

    Begin with a photo that has potential

    The Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool will not turn a frown or awkward expression into a smile. You need to begin with a neutral expression or a small smile if you want the tool to works it’s best.

    The human face is too complex and meaningful to transform a deep expression with a simple slider. When it comes to scowls and frowns, the entire face is involved.

    Perhaps someday the tool will be able to detect the unique contours and subtleties of the emotions written on our face. But for now, you’ll need to use other magical powers to manipulate the human face.

    Yes, you can manipulate the human face without needing Photoshop or any other post-processing software.

    How to make people smile for real

    Your goal is a portrait of smiling people. You need a plan in order to make that happen.

    For most photographers, the plan is to just tell their subject to smile. That’s an okay place to start, but that doesn’t always work.

    You may have to confront the fact that you don’t always know how to make people smile or bring out the best in them. Perhaps you even upset people when you’re trying to make them smile.

    Here are three ways to help people smile for their photo without simply commanding them (or using Photoshop later on):

    • Energy
    • Comedy
    • Praise

    The amount of positive energy that you bring to the session will be reflected back at you. Negative energy will always come back worse, positive energy will always come back better. Do not bring harsh tones and negative energy to your photo sessions.

    Comedy makes people laugh. Notice that comedians don’t tell people to laugh, they just say funny things and (most) people laugh spontaneously. Be funny for the people you’re photographing and they will smile.

    Happy portrait

    People normally have a nice smile in real life but a fake smile for the camera. They need to be praised and told whenever they are showing a good natural smile. That way they know how it feels when they have a natural smile and can produce it for the camera. Also, praise will make them smile even more. Eventually, they’ll smile just because you tell them they have a nice smile.

    I’ve learned all this the hard way. As a family photographer, I could make other people’s kids smile but not my own. I made my kids miserable by becoming a dictator when I wanted a photo. Very few people smile when being bossed around by a dictator.

    I realized they will smile naturally if I stop barking orders and turn the photo session into a comedy routine. I got far better results as an engaging person.

    Dealing with grumpy kids during photo sessions

    The result of commanding them to smile.

     

    Making kids come alive for portraits

    The result of being a comedian.

     

    Use it sparingly

    The Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool will help put a smile on your subject’s face, but it won’t help you to become a better photographer or the sort of person that makes others happy.

    This tool is not for you if you consistently miss smiles and hope to fix them in post-production. I think the solution for all of us is to learn to engage other people and bring out the best in them.

    Be thankful for the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool, but plan to use it in case of emergency. You’ll feel really good letting people know that you don’t have to “Photoshop” the smiles in your photos.

    Have you used the Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool? What are your thoughts? Share them with us in the comments.

    The post Photoshop Elements 2020 Smile Tool – What it is and How to Use it appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Tips For Mastering Contrast In Your Landscape Photos (video)

    The post 5 Tips For Mastering Contrast In Your Landscape Photos (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    Okay. So you’ve taken your landscape photos and you are back at the computer with your RAW files, ready to start editing in Lightroom. Before you do, you may want to watch this video by Mark Denney, so you can learn 5 handy tips for mastering contrast in your landscape photos.

    ?

    You can achieve varying levels of contrast in a number of ways. See which sliders make the most impact and how they work to boost and drop contrast levels to different degrees. In some scenarios, you may want to enhance contrast, when light is flat, for example. At other times, such as when there are already severe contrasting light levels, where you may need to pare it back.

    So check out the video, see how you can use the various sliders in Lightroom and try them out on your images. Then, feel free to share your results with us in the comments section.

    You may also find the following interesting:

    • The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2019
    • 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips
    • How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo
    • How to Embrace MINIMALISM for IMPROVED Landscape Photos (video)
    • 6 Important Compositional Elements to Consider When Shooting Landscapes
    • Which Landscape Photography Camera Should You Buy?(video)
    • 6 Ways to Easily Improve Your Landscape Photography
    • Living Landscapes
    • Loving Landscapes

    The post 5 Tips For Mastering Contrast In Your Landscape Photos (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Pink

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Pink appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is the color PINK!

    Image: Photo by dPS writer, Megan Kennedy © Megan Kennedy

    Photo by dPS writer, Megan Kennedy © Megan Kennedy

    This is a fun challenge. You can capture the color pink in so many ways. You can use minimalist photography, macro, flowers, landscapes (think pink sunsets, or wildflowers), cityscapes, abstracts or people wearing pink clothing. The pink can be a major part of the composition or be more subtle, like in the portrait below by dPS writer, Matt Murray. There are so many options!

    So, check out these pics to give you some ideas, have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    Image: Photo by dPS writer, Megan Kennedy © Megan Kennedy

    Photo by dPS writer, Megan Kennedy © Megan Kennedy

    perfect-macro-photo

    Photo by dPS writer, Jaymes Dempsey © Jaymes Dempsey

    urban-landscapes-for-portrait-shoots

    Photo by dPS writer, Matt Murray © Matt Murray

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting the color PINK

    Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color PINK and its use in Photography

    How to Use Color in Your Photography to Give Your Photos the Wow Factor

    How to Use Vibrant Colors in Photography with Great Success

    How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

    Understanding the Basics of Color

    Tips for Doing More Spectacular Sunset Photography

     

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSpink to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Pink appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Tips for Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations So You Can Get the Best Shots

    The post Tips for Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations So You Can Get the Best Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

    tips-for-cyber-scouting-photo-locations

    You’ve saved money to go to that great photo spot, marked your calendar, put in for vacation time, and are already thinking about the photos you want to make. The trouble is, you’ve never been there. Your time will be limited. You want to be able to use it to make pictures, not scouting to find where to go and when to be there for best locations and light. How can you “know before you go?” Welcome to the “Twenty-Twenties,” a time when cyber-scouting photo locations can be the next best thing to being there.

    GPS City of Rocks - Idaho

    Where is this? You tell me. Cyber-scouting photo locations will teach you how to see before you go, log GPS coordinates, and then get to the specific spot once you’re near. 1/100 – f/11 – ISO 200. Now, plug these coordinates into your browser and tell me where this is – 42°4’55.464″N 113°43’31.974″W

    Cyber-scouting?

    I thought I’d coined a new term, but a quick Google search proved otherwise.

    Many people who are planning trips now “cyber-scout” the internet to pre-plan their journey. Hunters, backpackers, vacation travelers – all kinds of folks have discovered the usefulness of these online tools.

    It only makes sense that we, as photographers, tap into the ability to see photos and survey sites we’re planning to visit before we even get there.

    My photo buddy Dan and I made a dream-trip a few years ago, photographing New England in the autumn. Living 2,600 miles away in Idaho, it wasn’t like we had much familiarity with the area. As we’d only be there less than a week, scouting once we had “boots on the ground” wasn’t going to be possible.

    Wasting time getting lost wasn’t an option either.

    Avalanche Falls, Flume Gorge, New Hampshire

    Had I not done some cyber-scouting for photo locations before my New England Trip, I’d never have known about Avalanche Falls in the Flume Gorge of New Hampshire. Moreover, I would have never been able to make this shot. 5 seconds, f/20, ISO 200

    Dan prefers not to see too many photos of a spot before he goes, concerned it will overly influence what he shoots. He’d rather see it with “new eyes” and create unique compositions.

    I can appreciate that viewpoint, but I’m different.

    Planning a trip, pre-visualizing the locations, seeing the spots, and anticipating being there is like getting two trips in one. It’s a virtual-reality vacation, plus a real-reality trip where, once I’m there, I already have some familiarity. Different strokes, I guess.

    It worked though – I became the planner/navigator, and he just made great shots on the trip. (He’s a much better photographer than I, but that’s another story for another day.)

    Pre-Planning a photo trip with Google MyMaps

    Once I located locations we might want to go, I plotted everything out using my GPS coordinates and Google MyMaps.

    Where to be and when to be there

    When asked the secret to his great photos, a famous New York spot-news photographer is thought to have originated this photography quote –

    “f/8 and be there.” – Arthur “Weegee” Fellig

    The idea is that being at the right location at the right time is more important to make a great photo than all the technical equipment and technique combined. So, when you are planning to photograph somewhere you’ve never been, how do you know what are good locations, and what are good times to be there?

    That is precisely the reason for cyber-scouting photo locations.

    A GPS primer

    Locations can be referred to in many ways. The simplest is the place name. Photographer friends we told about going to New England said a not-to-miss spot was Acadia National Park. Good general information, but how about specific spots?

    Okay, “be sure to get to the Bass Harbor Lighthouse,” they said. Traditionally, we might have found the spot with a paper map, written directions, and perhaps some coaching from the locals.

    Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse in Google Earth

    A search for the Bass Harbor Lighthouse on Google Earth and there you are.

    These days we have GPS (Global Positioning Satellite) navigation equipment, in our cars, on our phones, and in many other devices. Any spot on Earth with an unobstructed line-of-sight view to four or more GPS satellites can be precisely defined.

    The Bass Harbor Lighthouse is at 44°13’19.27N, 68°20’14.79W.

    The first set of numbers is how far north of the equator the place is, the second how far west of the Prime Meridian – unless you’re in the Southern Hemisphere.

    Places south of the equator and east of the Prime Meridian have GPS coordinates like this: 33°51’23.68S, 151°12’53.49E. These are coordinates for the Sydney Opera House in Australia.

    Copy and paste those coordinates into your web browser, and you’ll bring up a map of those precise spots.

    Sydney Opera House GPS coordinates in Google Earth

    In the southern hemisphere, the GPS coordinates are slightly different. The Sydney Opera House in Australia is “down under” with coordinates south and east of the Prime Meridian.

    We’ll come back to why you want to know this in a bit. In the meantime, stick a pin in that spot while we explore other ways to develop a list of locations you want to visit on your photo trip.

    Books

    You remember books, right? Those paper things we read before we had computers, tablets, phones, and other devices?

    If the spot for your trip is well-known, the chances are good that someone will have written a book about it. For our trip, we picked up “Photographing Acadia National Park,” by Colleen Minuk-Sperry. It turned out to be a great resource.

    We later took a workshop with Dave Long of Blue Hour Photo Ventures. Dave has written numerous e-books on great New England photo locations and has included the GPS coordinates of each spot, making cyber-scouting them online and later getting there a breeze.

    Find out if there are good books written about your intended photo location.

    Location Websites

    Do you think there’s a spot no one has written about on a website? 

    Guess again. 

    Say your boss decides to send you on a business trip to Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland. (If he does, he might be telling you something). Should you take your camera? 

    Where is it, and what’s there? 

    Google “Top Photo Spots in Ittoqqortoormiit” and yup, you’ll find photos. You’ll find companies giving photo tours. You’ll find photos on 500px by others who have been there. 

    Even though it is one of the most remote places in the world, you can still cyber-scout it and know what you’ll see before you go. (Or I can view the photos a friend of mine in our photo club took when he visited Greenland with noted landscape photographer Art Wolfe. Unbelievable!)

    Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland with Google Earth

    Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland is listed as one of the most remote populated places on earth, yet cyber-scouting photo locations with Google Earth makes it easy to take a “virtual tour.”

    My point is, it’s unlikely you’ll find a place anywhere in the world not discussed and pictured on the web. Plugin the GPS coordinates (70.4849752,-21.9729592) for Ittoqqortoormiit (don’t worry if you can’t pronounce it), and off you go, no sled dogs required.

    Photo websites

    I couldn’t even begin to name all the online sites where photographers post their photos. Cyber-scouting photo locations on such sites can be a virtual tour of the area you plan to visit.

    See a spot you like? Make a note of the place name and then search for it. 500px is a favorite place of mine. For our Acadia National Park trip, I found over 7,000 photos. Heck, even for Ittoqqortoormiit, there were 81 photos the night I checked.

    Bass Harbor Lighthouse, Flickr

    Flickr alone had over 6,000 posted photos of the Bass Harbor Lighthouse when I checked. I think there might have been half of those photographers there the day we visited! Iconic spots have become even more known since the internet.

    Another good photo location to check is Flickr. (They had over 1,500 photos of Ittoqqortoomiit when I looked.)

    Many of the photos posted there have the GPS coordinates recorded, and with a few clicks, you’re off on your virtual tour.

    Come fly with me

    What if you could send your “virtual drone” off on a mission cyber-scouting photo locations? That’s pretty much what you have with Google Earth.

    “Fly” to a location, see it from different angles, zoom in, look for place names, see photos others have taken there, and get the GPS coordinates.

    It’s a great way to scout a spot before going.

    Bass Harbor Lighthouse Summer Sunset - Google Earth

    Use the emulation mode of Google Earth to enter the date and time, turn on the sun, move the slider and see when and where the sunset will be. On 8/18/20 it will be straight up the shoreline from the lighthouse and set at 7:31 p.m. EDT.

    Let’s fly over the Bass Harbor Lighthouse. Which would be the better angle – shoot toward the east or west? What if I want to get the sunset?

    If I’m there on a particular date, where will the sun set, and at what time? How will it all line-up? Google Earth can emulate all of that.

    Fly to the spot, activate the sunlight slider, enter the time and date you plan to be there, and move the slider to watch how the light moves across the landscape. Cool huh?

    The wildcard is what the weather will be when you’re there.

    You can anticipate the weather a couple of days out with weather apps. You can decide if you should go or maybe seek an alternate spot.

    Another reason for cyber-scouting photo locations is to have a “Plan-B” should the weather not cooperate.

    There are also a bunch of good weather apps useful for photographers. Even with all my best scouting, the evening we went to the Bass Harbor Lighthouse, the sunset was a bust with heavy cloud cover. Some things still can’t be totally planned. Still, I thought I made a decent shot, regardless.

    Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations - Bass Harbor Lighthouse on a cloudy day

    It’s hard to make a unique shot of this location, especially with a few dozen other photographers all standing a few feet apart hoping for a nice sunset. All my cyber-scouting still couldn’t conjure better light. You do what you can.  6 seconds – f/11 – ISO 200

    Make your shot different

    One problem with going to an iconic photo location is that so many other photographers have probably been there already (you’re likely to find a pack there when you go), and made thousands of shots.

    Take advantage of the ability of Google Earth’s fly-over capabilities to look for different compositions. Check the landforms, angles, the way the light falls at certain times of the day, and how you can create different and interesting images.

    When you find a spot, “drop a pin.” Note the GPS coordinates, and then you’ll be able to find that unique spot once you’re onsite.

    Golden Gate Bridge from Vista Point

    If you ride a tour bus and get off at Vista Point, you can make this shot. It’s not bad, but it’s sure not unique. Thousands of tourists get essentially the same shot every day.

    Let’s use an example.

    If you go to San Francisco, you’re probably going to want to photograph the Golden Gate Bridge. If you ride a tourist bus and do what a jillion other people have done, they’ll stop at Vista Point on the north side of the bridge. Line up with a thousand other photographers (and even more “happy snappers”), and take the same basic shot everyone gets.

    Yawn.

    Instead, use Google Earth for cyber-scouting the location.

    You might learn if you went to Marshall’s Beach over the southwest side of the bridge, you could get a much less-photographed vantage point. With some creativity, good light, and a dose of photographer’s luck, your shot won’t be like the one the folks on the tourist bus will take thousands of times each day.

    Cyber-scouting for photo locations - Golden Gate Bridge from Marshalls Beach - Google Earth

    Send up your “virtual drone” with Google Earth, “fly” around and you might spot this much more interesting and less photographed vantage point of the Golden Gate Bridge from Marshall’s Beach.

    Back on the ground with the Peg Man

    Another way for cyber-scouting photo locations is to make friends with the Google Maps “Peg Man.” That’s what some call the little character you can move to a spot and get a virtual POV (Point-of-View) look at the area, much as if you were really there.

    Let’s head back to Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland.

    Open Google Maps and search for the place (if you can spell it). If not, perhaps you saved the GPS coordinates – 70.4844397,-21.9701898?

    Click on the map that appears in your browser to open Google Maps. Now look for the Peg Man, he’s that little guy at the bottom right of the screen.

    Click on him.

    If the streets on your map turn blue, you can then click, hold, drag, and drop him on a spot. You will be whisked away to a POV street view of the spot.

    You can now “walk” the streets by clicking in the direction you want to go. Have a look around by clicking, holding, and dragging your mouse left and right. Roll the center mouse wheel to zoom in and out.

    It’s almost like being there without having to wear a parka.

    A virtual walk on the streets of Ittoqqortoormiit with Google Maps

    Take a virtual walk on the streets of Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland by dropping the “Peg Man” in Google Maps. It seems kinda quiet, but then there are only about 450 people who live here in one of the most remote places on earth.

    Maybe a more picturesque spot? Let’s go to the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France.

    Type that into Google Maps. It’s bit more populated there, right?

    Click the Peg Man over this map, and you will not only see the blue-colored streets, but you will also see blue “Photo Spheres.” Click on one of these, and you’ll have a 360-degree panorama where you can really get a look around.

    Yeah, it’s a little more crowded than Ittoqqortoormiit, but as you can “tour” the entire city this way, maybe you can find a unique vantage point for a photo not currently done a million times.

    Eiffel Tower in Google Maps

    Paris is a bit more populated than Ittoqqortoormiit. Enter Eiffel Tower in Google Maps and get this map. From here, drop the Peg Man to roam the streets or click a “Photo Sphere” to see a 360-degree panorama from that spot.

    Cyber-scouting photo locations - A Pigeon in my panorama

    There’s a pigeon in my panorama! Cyber-scouting photo locations could help you discover when and where to be for this shot. With a long exposure or some skill with the cloning tool, you could also vanish the people. Just watch out for pigeons.

    When to be there

    I mentioned the two essentials in planning for a great photo:

    1. Knowing where to go, and
    2. Knowing when to be there. 

    I’ve covered a few of the tools and techniques for cyber-scouting photo locations – the “where” part of that equation. 

    There are other tools that will help you know “when.” 

    Photographers know that great light and the specific spot are keys to making an image that goes above and beyond average. Some online tools and apps can help with that too. 

    Rather than get into all of those here, let me direct you to another DPS article by author Pete DeMarco, “6 of the Best Smartphone Apps for Travel and Landscape Photography.” In it he discusses:

    1. PhotoPills
    2. The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE)
    3. Sun Surveyor
    4. Tide Charts Near Me
    5. Maps.me
    6. Wunderground

    About those GPS coordinates

    You remember I said to note GPS coordinates? This is a great way to keep track of, map, and use GPS devices to get you to those spots once you are on location.

    GPS coordinates into Garmin Nuvi

    You may be able to import a .kmz file or can at least manually input your list of location GPS data into your portable dashtop GPS device. Bring it with you on your trip, and you’ll be set to navigate to all your spots.

    These articles were written a few years ago, just before my epic New England trip. What proved most useful was transferring my GPS data into my Garmin Navigator dashtop GPS device.

    I used transferred the .kmz file, but also learned that it was easy enough to type the GPS coordinates into the device and save them as locations.

    I took the Garmin in my suitcase, set it up in the rental car once in Boston, clicked the location we wanted to go to, and bingo…off we went.

    The beauty of the Garmin is it worked completely off the satellite, no internet connection required.

    I was surprised how often we didn’t have internet availability, even in what seemed only “hills” by a westerners’ perspective.

    The lesson learned – don’t count on your phone, tablet, or other internet-required devices for navigation. A stand-alone GPS navigation device (Garmin, Magellan, Tom Tom, etc.), which requires only a satellite connection, is a much more reliable option.

    Analog backup

    Cyber-scouting photo locations before your trip is a fun way to “see” and know-before-you-go the spots you’d like to photograph.

    Electronic GPS devices can be a great way to get to the spots you’ve planned on visiting. But should it all go south, the connections don’t connect, and the power fails, an old-fashioned paper map and a compass is a good “Plan B” to have in your pack.

    Just sayin’.

    Of course, don’t overlook talking to the locals, or even better, local photographers who know the great spots. Also, hiring a guide can be well worth it, especially if you are in a foreign place.

    For now, though, do some cyber-scouting, and get excited about your upcoming photo trip.

    When you get back with some awesome images, post a few in the comments section below and tell us about your adventure.

    Happy trails.

    The post Tips for Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations So You Can Get the Best Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


    Digital Photography School

  • News: When to Expect Sigma’s Full-Frame Foveon Camera

    The post News: When to Expect Sigma’s Full-Frame Foveon Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    sigma-full-frame-fovean-camera

    Back in 2018, Sigma announced it would be creating a new kind of camera: an L-mount, full-frame mirrorless body with a Foveon sensor.

    In 2019, Sigma gave an update, indicating that the Foveon full-frame body would debut in 2020.

    And then, just days ago, Sigma announced that the full-frame Foveon wasn’t even close to production-ready:

    As a result of careful and rigorous testing based on the latest development information, however, it has become clear that the launch of such a camera would be infeasible within this year. Still at this point, we cannot say for certain when the full-frame Foveon X3 sensor will be put into mass production.

    Unfortunately, it looks like we won’t be seeing the Foveon sensor in a full-frame camera for quite a while, though it’s encouraging that Sigma hasn’t scrapped the project entirely. Of course, only time will tell whether the company meets its end goal of a full-frame Foveon option.

    Sigma has created a number of cameras with Foveon technology in the past, including two recent mirrorless bodies that separately feature APS-C and APS-H size sensors (note that APS-H sensors sit between the smaller APS-C and the larger full-frame, 35mm sensors). But Sigma’s only current full-frame digital camera, and only current Sigma full-frame camera to use an L-mount, uses a standard imagining sensor, not the Foveon tech that gets consumers excited.

    What is it about the Foveon sensor that’s so special?

    To understand this you should also be familiar with standard (Bayer) sensors, which dedicate a single RGB color to each pixel/photosite. Light hits the Bayer sensor, and is filtered into the corresponding photosites: red light enters into red photosites, blue light enters into blue photosites, and green light enters into green photosites.

    Then, through a process called demosaicing, the full-sized color image is determined based on the already-existing color data.

    Foveon sensors, on the other hand, toss this out the window. Instead of dedicating a single photosite to each color, Foveon sensors capture data for three colors per photosite, resulting in more information captured per pixel and better sharpness overall.

    Note that the full-frame Foveon is planned to incorporate the L-mount, and will, therefore, handle L-mount lenses that are produced by Panasonic and Leica, in addition to Sigma’s own L-mount glass.

    For now, I recommend keeping an eye out for news regarding Sigma’s new camera. And, if we’re lucky, we’ll have some information before the year is out.

    Are you excited about this camera technology? Will you be buying this camera when it is finally released? Share with us in the comments section.

    The post News: When to Expect Sigma’s Full-Frame Foveon Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • Tamron 35mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony Review

    The post Tamron 35mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

     

    tamron-35mm-f2-8-lens-review-sony

    Hot on the heels of Tamron’s widely successful f/2.8 zoom lenses comes a trio of f/2.8 prime lenses, specifically a Tamron 20mm, 24mm, and 35mm. I recently tested the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 and found it to be a surprisingly fun little lens.

    Why surprising? Well, the 35mm f/2.8 may seem like an odd lens at first glance. There are faster versions of this focal length, such as the 35mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/1.4. And for those who shoot with a 16-35mm f/2.8 or 24-70mm f/2.8, this lens might seem unnecessary. However, there are a few clever tricks that the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 lens has up its sleeve to set it apart from the competition.

    Tamron 35mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony Review

    Tech specs

    The official name of this lens is the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 Di III OSD M 1:2 Lens. It is made for Sony E-mount mirrorless full-frame cameras. Affordably priced at $ 349 USD, this is among the cheapest 35mm FE E-mount lens options.

    Only Samyang makes a cheaper version.

    All other FE 35mm options are over double the price of this Tamron. However, most of them have apertures of f/1.8 or faster.

    • Maximum Aperture: f/2.8
    • Minimum Aperture: f/22
    • Lens Mount: Sony E
    • Format Compatibility: Full-Frame
    • Angle of View: 63° 26′
    • Minimum Focus Distance: 5.9″ / 14.99 cm
    • Maximum Magnification: 0.5x
    • Macro Reproduction Ratio: 1:2
    • Optical Design: 9 Elements in 8 Groups
    • Diaphragm Blades: 7, Rounded
    • Focus Type: Autofocus
    • Image Stabilization: No
    • Filter Size: 67 mm (Front)
    • Dimensions (ø x L): 2.87 x 2.5″ / 73 x 63.5 mm
    • Weight: 7.4 oz / 210 g
    • Price: $ 349 USD

    Compact size

    Coming in at just 3oz, the Tamron 35mm 2/.8 lens is so lightweight, it may feel as though you forgot to attach a lens to your camera. Its size makes it a great lens for travel or street photography.

    Since it isn’t terribly heavy, the lens does have a mostly plastic feel to it. However, the lens is still weather-sealed and even comes with a gasket in the bayonet to prevent moisture and dust from building up.

    Tamron also offers a 5-year warranty with all of its products, which should help put your mind that ease.

    Fun macro capabilities

    Despite its light weight, the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 is a bit chunky – it’s definitely not a pancake lens.

    But part of the reason for the lens’ size is its macro capabilities. As noted in the tech specs above, this lens has a minimum focusing distance of 5.9 inches (15 cm) and a macro reproduction ratio of 1:2. This means that you can get really close to your photo subjects for some macro photography fun.

    When focusing at a close distance, the bokeh looks amazing, making up for this lens’ f/2.8 aperture.

    Tamron 35mm f/2.8 review

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/125 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400, Aperture Priority

    Excellent image quality

    I paired the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 lens with a Sony A7riii and found the resulting images to be pleasing. The images were sharp with excellent contrast, good bokeh, and just a small amount of vignetting.

    The lens also performed well while shooting video. However, there is no image stabilization in the lens, so it is not an optimal choice for video shooters.

    Laggy autofocus

    After listing several high points of this lens, it’s time to talk about its downfall – autofocus.

    Given Sony’s reputation for having fast and accurate autofocus in its cameras, this lens’ autofocus performance was disappointing.

    When paired with my Sony A7riii, the Tamron often struggled to focus on both macro and non-macro shots. The autofocus problem worsened in low lighting. As someone with lots of experience with macro photography, I suspect that the slow autofocus is due to the lens’ macro capabilities. So in a way, it’s a trade-off – you can shoot macro with this lens but at the cost of slow autofocus.

    In Conclusion

    Should you get this lens?

    If you are a beginner photographer looking for a compact prime lens to experiment with, the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 would be a great choice. It has a great price point and will help you develop an eye for photography, as the 35mm focal length is often recommended as the best lens for beginners.

    Even experienced photographers may prefer this compact lens with macro capabilities for travel or street photography. However, if you often shoot fast-paced subjects or in low light environments, save up for the more expensive, faster versions of this lens.

    Have you tried the Tamron 35mm f/2.8 lens? Share with us your thought in the comments section.

    Tamron 35mm f/2.8 review

    Shot with the Sony a7r iii and the Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/1600 sec, f/9, ISO 500, Aperture Priority

    Tamron 35mm f/2.8 review

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/500 sec, f/9, ISO 500, Aperture Priority

    Tamron 35mm f/2.8

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/200 sec, f/2.8, ISO 4000, Aperture Priority

    Tamron 35mm f/2.8

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 3200, Aperture Priority

    Tamron 35mm f/2.8

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/50 sec, f/2.8, ISO 800, Aperture Priority

    Image: Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 3200, Aperture...

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 3200, Aperture Priority

    Image: Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/160 sec, f/10, ISO 400, Aperture Pr...

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/160 sec, f/10, ISO 400, Aperture Priority

    Image: Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 400, Aperture P...

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 400, Aperture Priority

    Image: Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/640 sec, f/6.3, ISO 400, Aperture P...

    Sony a7r iii with Tamron 35mm f/2.8. Focal length 35mm, 1/640 sec, f/6.3, ISO 400, Aperture Priority

    The post Tamron 35mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


    Digital Photography School

  • Everything You Need To Know For a Fashion Shoot

    Preparing for a fashion shoot sounds easy on paper, but in reality requires a lot of thought out planning – namely for the equipment you’ll need. There’s flexibility within this, but there are certain elements that are necessities (such as your camera and lighting). Luckily, we’ve written up the perfect guide to help you, and to make your own fashion Continue Reading

    The post Everything You Need To Know For a Fashion Shoot appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • Photograph Your Commute, See the World Differently

    The post Photograph Your Commute, See the World Differently appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

    photograph-your-commute

    It doesn’t take long for our commute to become familiar and mundane. We make our way through the world on autopilot, not seeing the details that surround us. By taking the time to photograph your commute, you both improve your photography and start an exciting personal project.

    As photographers, we should be learning to see the details around us even when we’ve seen them a thousand times before. Our eye needs continuous training to keep it in good shape, just like an athlete needs to train at their sport regularly. And a commute to work on foot or by public transport is an ideal time to flex your visual muscles.

    Here are some reasons why leaving ten minutes early for your commute in the morning with your camera can help you train your eye and eventually become a better photographer.

    Plan out your project

    All of the images in this article came from a single challenge – to photograph my walk to work and to try and spot small details and moments I might ordinarily miss. Each day I was walking from King’s Cross to Camden in London, a journey of no more than a mile. It took me primarily through industrial areas, and I wanted to try and capture something interesting.

    photograph your commute

    All the images in this article were part of a project to photograph my London commute. These images: ISO100, 100mm, f2.8, 1/250th sec

    You don’t have to plan your project in-depth, but it does help to have a general idea of where you want to go with it. In my case, I knew that I wanted to produce a series of black and white images that focussed on the architecture of the area.

    It doesn’t have to be architecture photography. You might choose to shoot people going about their day. Or perhaps the urban wildlife that you see in the mornings if you get up extra early. Maybe you walk through a park with particularly lovely trees and landscapes.

    The sky is your limit, but jot down a few ideas of how to photograph your commute to help you get started.

    Choose the right kit

    You don’t want to be lugging a huge camera bag to work every day on top of everything else you take, so figure out where you can slim things down when you photograph your commute.

    Image: ISO100, 100mm, f2.8, 1/250th sec

    ISO100, 100mm, f2.8, 1/250th sec

    Most of the time, I chuck my camera and a single lens straight into my handbag protected by a simple wrap. It’s easy and does the job of keeping the camera scratch-free. It also doesn’t take up too much space.

    If you want a bit more protection, you could look at once of the camera bag inserts that are purpose-made to fit inside any handbag or rucksack. They’ll allow you to organize your camera gear a bit more, and it’ll offer more peace of mind if you get jostled on your commute, or you drop your bag accidentally.

    Don’t forget to consider your accessories too – an everyday carry kit in a small container might be just the thing to put together.

    Practice makes perfect

    Logic dictates that if you practice a skill regularly, you will improve over time. So practicing photography each day, even for a little bit, is a way to improve your photographic eye by leaps and bounds in a short space of time.

    photograph your commute

    Left image: ISO100, 100mm, f2.8, 1/400th sec Right image: ISO200, 100mm, f2.8, 1/200th sec

    You don’t have to have your camera out and round your neck the whole time either. Just thinking ahead to a place where you can stop on your route and get your camera out for ten minutes would work.

    If each day you pick a different place to stop and shoot, you’ll soon find yourself improving.

    The key when you stop is to try and pick out a new detail to shoot. You could even try to shoot ten photos without moving your feet in a different location each day.

    Pick a technique to improve

    Without focus, you might find it harder to make significant improvements in your photography. So when you’re planning to photograph your commute, perhaps pick a technique to improve as well as a subject. Or maybe you could choose a technique to focus on per week or even per day.

    Every commute will lend itself to a different set of techniques that you can practice to improve. But you might like to focus on some of the following areas:

    • Focussing accurately
    • Composition
    • Introducing motion blur
    • Capturing light and shadow
    • Experimenting with depth of field

    Present your work

    At the end of your project, or when you feel like you’ve exhausted everything your commute has to offer photographically, be sure to do something with the photos. Many of us are guilty of letting images languish on our hard drives without ever seeing the light of day.

    At the very least, you could think about putting your pictures on social media.

    Perhaps talk in the captions about the sights and sounds that were around you when you captured the image, or how you were feeling that day. You might be surprised to find that the kinds of photos you shoot relate to your emotional wellbeing and the way the environment makes you feel.

    Image: ISO100, 100mm, f4, 1/1250th sec

    ISO100, 100mm, f4, 1/1250th sec

    You could also put together a book. It isn’t expensive any more to get a single book made of your photos, and there are lots of companies that offer this service. Consider if you want to include short pieces of writing alongside your photographs, just like you might on social media.

    Lastly, you might want to consider an exhibition full of beautiful prints.

    If you’ve never had a show before, this might feel both terrifying and unachievable. Every significant achievement starts with a small step.

    Start by exploring local gallery spaces and seeing how you get your work in them. Some have open shows that you can submit work for consideration.

    Others will want to show a whole series from a single artist and will tell you how they want to see your work. There are also some gallery spaces that you can hire for a week or two to show your work.

    The choice is yours!

    What about a 365 project?

    It might be tempting to turn a daily practice into a 365 project. But I would like you to think hard before you commit to doing that. It sounds easy at first – just a single photo a day! And if you’re committing to taking your camera to work each day, then that might look easy.

    photograph your commute

    ISO100, 100mm, f4, 1/800th sec

    But 365 projects can suck the fun out of photography if you’re not the kind of person who is really, really into them. If you want to do this kind of project, then perhaps consider a ’52’ version – just one image per week. That allows you to have bad days, and sick days, and days where you don’t want to look at your photos in the evening!

    But whatever you do, and wherever you take this project, make sure it’s fun. It should be an enjoyable highlight in your day, not a daily slog. Spending a little bit of time every day with your camera should be something that brings you joy.

    Have you ever taken the time to photograph your commute? Please show us the images in the comments!

    The post Photograph Your Commute, See the World Differently appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


    Digital Photography School

  • 10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    The post 10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

    switching-from-lightroom-to-capture-one-pro

    Capture One Pro 20 was launched recently, with improvements to the Basic Color Editor, noise reduction, and other tools and features. It offers improved DNG support and has added functionality with several cameras. If you’ve been thinking of switching from Adobe Lightroom to Capture One Pro, now may be the time.

    Capture One Pro color grading tools are unparalleled and the ability to work in Layers gives you more options in your workflow.

    If you’re nervous about the learning curve associated with yet another piece of software, don’t worry – knowing Lightroom will give you a great foundation for learning Capture One Pro.

    Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    The two programs basically work the same in that they allow you to make edits non-destructively by saving them in a database and keeping track where the images are stored.

    Here are ten tips that will help you when switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro.

    10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    1. Import your Lightroom Catalog

    The fact that you can migrate your Lightroom catalog into Capture One Pro is a great nudge to make the switch. It’s a simple process that involves only a few quick steps.

    Migrating will not have an impact on your Lightroom catalog, and you can continue to use it as you normally would.

    One thing to note is that while edits such as Exposure, Highlights, Shadows, White Balance and Rotation will be imported seamlessly, every single adjustment might not translate. This is often the case with some color settings.

    For a step-by-step guide on how to migrate your Lightroom Catalog into COP, go here.

    Capture )ne pro-Tips for Switching from Lightroom

    2. Familiarize yourself with the Capture One interface

    There is a big difference between the Lightroom and Capture One Pro interface.

    While Lightroom has separate tabs for the various workspaces such as the Library and Develop modules, Capture One has an all-in-one workspace. Instead of jumping around from module to module for specific functions, all of the tools in Capture One (COP) are at your fingertips.

    The various panels in COP are called Tools. They are organized under various Tabs.

    10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro 10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    One awesome feature is that you can actually mimic the Lightroom workspace until you familiarize yourself with the program and decide how you want your workspace to look.

    To do this, simply go to Window->Workspace->Migration.

    switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    3. Customize your tools

    The key to getting the most out of Capture One Pro’s awesome functionality is to customize your tools. The tools in COP are highly customizable, which is another bonus to switching from Lightroom.

    You can move the tools around and you can set up a Tab containing only the tools you regularly use.

    For example, you can move your White Balance Tool to the Exposure panel, similar to how it’s set up in Lightroom.

    Right-click on the Tab to add a tool or remove it. You can also float your tools by dragging them onto the image itself.

    switching from lightroom to capture one pro

    4. Catalogs and Sessions

    Capture One offers two management systems:  Catalogs and Sessions. Both have their pros and cons.

    As far as organization goes, a COP Catalog is similar to a Lightroom Catalog. Think of Sessions as being similar to Lightroom Collections, but with additional functionality.

    Catalogs are most suitable for organizing large volumes of images, whereas Sessions are used for individual shoots.

    Sessions provide a simple, folder-based workflow. They give you the ability to browse any folder on your computer without having to import images. Your adjustments are placed in a subfolder next to the images.

    switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    Sessions are great for on-set workflow and tethered shooting, and are generally seen as the more efficient option. Sessions allow you to store all the files from a single project together.

    Once you have migrated your Lightroom Catalog into COP, you can build and structure your photos into sessions if you choose.

    When you create a new Session, Capture One creates five folders on your hard drive. It creates a main folder with the name of your session. This folder contains the following:

    • Capture: contains the RAW files
    • Output:  contains converted JPEGS, TIFFS, etc
    • Selects:  images you’ve marked as a “select”
    • Trash:  images you’ve deleted during capture.

    Any images that you delete during your COP session will go into Trash, but won’t be deleted from your disk until you physically delete them from this folder.

    I use both Catalogs and Sessions. My recommendation is to use Catalogs based on genre.

    Or if you shoot only in one or two genres like I do, you might want to separate commercial work form editorial work, stock photography, or personal photos, for example. Create an organizational system that works for you.

    5. Get to know the Color Editor

    Many photographers who make the switch from Lightroom to Capture One Pro say that the color quality is unparalleled by any RAW editor out there, especially when it comes to natural-looking skin tones. In fact, it has its own editor for skin tones.

    If you’re used to the HSL sliders in Lightroom, the color tools are an area that will feel very new to you and may require some getting used to.

    Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    Color Editor – Tool Icon

    10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    You can use the Color Editor with masks. It’s split into three tabs: Basic, Advanced, and Skin Tone.

    The Basic Tab is divided into eight color ranges, represented by a color wheel, and one that encompasses the whole spectrum. Here you can use sliders that affect Hue, Saturation, and Lightness.

    To work on a certain color, click on the Eyedropper Tool and then click on the color in your image you want to edit. Sliding vertically on the area will affect the Saturation. Sliding horizontally affects the Hue.

    In my image below, I worked individually on the oranges without altering anything else. This comes in handy when you’re working on a photo with various hues of the same color, by helping you target only those colors you want to alter.

    10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    6. Practice working with Layers

    One of the best features that Capture One Pro has to offer is the ability to work in Layers.

    These layers are similar to the layers in Photoshop in that they work with masks, but they function like targeted adjustments in Lightroom.

    Masks determine where on the layer your adjustments will be applied. You can create masks in multiple ways. For example, you can brush them in, just like with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom.

    Click on the brush and paint over the area you want to work on. By default, the area will be indicated in red. It will only show up when you’re painting unless you hit the shortcut “M” to keep it on permanently.

    You can use the shortcut key “E” to erase any areas that you want to subtract.

    You can make changes to exposure, contrast, clarity, saturation etc.

    10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    Be sure to name each layer when working with multiple layers to keep track of the various edits you’ve made to your image.

    To do this double-click on the Layer name and type in a new name.

    10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    7. Play around with creating style

    Are you used to working with Presets? Capture One Pro offers the same capability – another reason not to hesitate about switching from Lightroom.

    What you know as a Preset in Lightroom is called a Style in Capture One Pro.

    Capture One Pro also has “presets,” but they include only one Tool and are accessible from within that Tool. Styles contains several Tools to create a pre-determined look.

    The same way you can purchase presets from various third-parties, you can also purchase Styles from Capture One Pro/Phase One.

    To test out some free sample Styles, go to this link from Capture One Pro.

    8. Copy your adjustments

    You can copy your adjustments from one image to another, just like you can in Lightroom.

    Go to the upper-right-hand corner of the interface and click on the arrow up icon.

    Click the arrow down icon to paste them to your images.

    switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    9. Try Process Recipes

    Process Recipes are similar to Export presets, but you can select several at one time. Once you set them up, they can make your workflow a lot quicker and more efficient. No more tinkering with dialog boxes!

    Each recipe includes the output file format information and location information. There are also options for watermarking, metadata, and sharpening, etc.

    You can create a specific process recipe for images that you want to export for social media use, with lower resolution and optimal pixel dimensions for social sharing.

    Or you can create a recipe for printing your images for your portfolio or for postcards to send as promotional pieces. You can even export multiple recipes at the same time by checking off their respective checkboxes.

    You can find Process Recipes under the Output Tool Tab noted with green in the screenshot below.

    switching from lightroom to Capture One Pro

    Note that COP has created some Process recipes to get you started.

    10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro

    To create a new Process Recipe, click on the arrow in the lower right-hand side of the panel. Rename it with any name you like – for example, “Instagram.”

    It will give you all the options for exporting the photo, as seen in the first picture, including the Output Location and Output Naming conventions.

    10. Try shooting tethered

    One of the best things about switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro is the outstanding tethering ability.

    Although Lightroom has improved its tethering capabilities in the last couple of years, it’s still buggy and has a tendency to crash. COP leads the way in tethering in the photographic industry with its instant tethered capture technology.

    With tethered capture in Lightroom, your camera also goes to sleep when you’re not using it. This is a massive pain if you’re working in a studio with a client. COP stays open as long as you keep the tethering session open.

    You can also use Live View and Layout Overlays. This is really handy if you’re shooting a magazine cover or product packaging where you have to work around the placement of text.

    Lightroom doesn’t have Live View functionality unless it’s paired with camera proprietary software, such as Canon EOS Utility. Capture One Pro, on the other hand, allows you to use Live View with natural light or strobes at the click of a button.

    Conclusion

    Hopefully, these tips have given you a better idea of how easy it is to make the switch from Lightroom to Capture One pro.

    Only you can decide which RAW editor is for you. However, with its reputation for color quality, all-in-one workspace, and tons of ways to keep you organized and make an efficient workflow, Capture One Pro is totally worth checking out.

    You can try a 30-day free trial to help you decide.

    The post 10 Tips for Switching from Lightroom to Capture One Pro appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Benefits of Using Photography Filters when Taking Photos

    The post 5 Benefits of Using Photography Filters when Taking Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

    benefits-of-using-photography-filters

    Filters are optical attachments that attach to the front of the lens. They can be made of glass or resin and are used to restrict the light coming into the camera. Filters are a great piece of kit to consider carrying with you in your camera bag, particularly when you have been doing photography for a while and are more up to speed with how to use your camera. Described below are several key reasons and benefits to using filters as well as how to use them and the different types of filters available.

    Image: Filters, like this kit from NISI, are a great addition to your photography kit, particularly...

    Filters, like this kit from NISI, are a great addition to your photography kit, particularly if you do a lot of landscape photography.

    1. Add color and contrast

    Filters are a great way to improve your landscape photos. One of the most popular types of filters available on the market today is a polarizing filter.

    There are a few reasons why it is beneficial to use polarizers.

    Polarizing filters reduce reflections such as those found on glass or water. They can also help to restore natural color saturation and improve the contrast in your images. An example where a polarizer can be beneficial is when photographing woodlands, waterfalls or greenery to bring out more color in the vegetation.

    using photography filters 01

    You can vary the intensity of the polarization effect by rotating the filter until you achieve the desired effect. For the optimum effect, you are best to point your camera at around a 45-degree angle to the sun.

    There are two types of polarizers available: a square and a circular version. You can use them as part of a square or round filter system.

    You can place a square type of polarizing filter into one of the slots of the filter holder system that is attached to the camera lens via an adaptor ring.

    The circular polarizer option either screws onto the front of the lens directly or attaches to the front of the square filter system by a ring. The front dial of the filter is then turned to polarize the light on the scene you photograph.

    2. Create movement

    5 Benefits of Using Photography Filters when Taking Photos

    Another great advantage of using photography filters is to create some motion in your pictures.

    Have you ever wanted to create more movement to a static looking scene?

    Well, by using a Neutral Density (ND) filter, you can.

    The way an ND filter works is by reducing the level of light that passes through the camera lens. If you haven’t used them before, they are quite straightforward to operate. You simply slot the ND filter into a filter holder attached to the camera lens. It then blocks some of the light that enters the camera sensor so that you can still use slower shutter speeds in bright daylight.

    They come in a range of different densities varying from one, two, three, or even 10 or 16-stops of exposure. The darker the filter, the more significant the loss of light and the stronger the effect they can generate.

    You may be wondering, do you really need one? Well, that depends on what you are photographing.

    The 10-stop and 6-stop ND filters are specifically designed for long exposure photography. The 10-stop works very well for extending exposure times and blurring moving subjects in your images. It is great for capturing the motion of foliage, clouds, or water.

    In comparison, the 6-stop can be beneficial for low-light conditions at dawn and dusk.

    They are both advantageous. You can use them to accentuate cloud movement, create cloud patterns, or make running water appear smooth.

    3. More balanced exposure

    You can use filters to help capture a scene accurately. The fundamental reason for using a Neutral Density (ND) graduated filter is to reduce the amount of light entering the camera across the shaded gray part of the filter and correctly record the scene.

    ND graduated filters are very popular for landscape photography as they help to provide more balanced exposures.

    As great as modern cameras are you will often find with high-contrast landscape scenes, your pictures will either have a burnt-out sky or a dark, underexposed foreground. This is where the Neutral Density (ND) graduated filter works its magic.

    using photography filters 02

    In these high contrast scenes, when there are two different very unevenly lit subject areas, an ND graduated filter can be an appropriate solution.

    For example, when shooting bright skies or sunsets, the exposure between the sky and the foreground varies significantly. Hence, an ND filter helps to capture the entire tonal range from the brightest to the darkest parts of an image, thus achieving a balanced exposure.

    Start by placing the ND filter in the filter holder and position the dark section of the filter over the bright sky. This reduces the amount of light transferred to the sky part of the image whilst allowing the foreground to expose correctly.

    This way, you capture detail in both parts of the image without the sky washing out due to too much light.

    5 Benefits of Using Photography Filters when Taking Photos

    In terms of the different types of ND grads available, they will either have a hard or soft edge where the gradation line gives a stronger or smoother transition from color to clear, respectively.

    Hard ND grads are better suited to scenes with straight horizons, while soft grads are favorable when objects like buildings and trees cross the horizon.

    ND graduated filters come in different strengths from 0.3, 0.6, 0.9, and 1.2 gradations. A 0.9 ND filter reduces the exposure by 3 stops of light. ND graduated filters alter the transition from dark to light, with 0.3 being a weaker gradation, and 1.2 being a stronger gradation.

    4. Enhance images

    Using photography filters can help to enhance your photography and different types of images, especially when using special effects filters.

    You can get specific special effect filters that slot into your filter holder, such as infrared or black and white filters. Other filters you can use to develop wonderful in-camera effects include sunset and sunrise filters. These provide warm colors for dawn and sunrise.

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    Mist and fog filters are another popular type of special effect filter. They are used to imitate the effects of mist by carefully positioning the filter in the holder. You can also use these filters to clean up images by the removal of distracting backgrounds to create minimal compositions.

    Other various filters can enhance effects in your photos. If you love to capture vivid, saturated shots, investing in color intensifiers is of benefit.

    The intensifier filters broaden and enhance specific colors without affecting the other tones in your photograph.

    Alternatively, there are sky filters available to enhance the colors in the sky, as well as autumn tint filters designed to accentuate golds, reds, and browns.

    5. Change white balance

    5 Benefits of Using Photography Filters when Taking Photos

    When you are out capturing landscapes, you may want to alter the color temperature of the scene. Using specialist color temperature filters can be great for changing color tones with no added color cast.

    Consider using photography filters that help to brighten up or cool down the white balance and give accurate color temperature corrections.

    Coral filters are a great way to warm up a scene by adding pinks and reds.

    Conclusion

    In summary, popular filters, particularly amongst landscape photographers, include polarizers, graduated and neutral density graduated filters, and special effects filters.

    Consider using photography filters as a way to add color to your images, manage variations in contrast, and to create more dynamic movement such as with clouds or water.

    Filters are also a wonderful accessory to help protect your lenses and balance your exposures where tones are significantly different.

    Do you use filters? What benefits do you find they provide? Share your comments with us below.

    The post 5 Benefits of Using Photography Filters when Taking Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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