cazillo.com Having proper focus in an image is imperative. No one wants an out of focus picture of themselves or a family member, same goes for other types of photography. This is one of the basics, so you need to get it right all th time. In my video I go over how to use each mode, why you shouldn’t focus then recompose & how I focus. You can also find out what the 1/3-2/3s rule of focus is. Please share this video with your friends! Thanks!
Comments
24 responses to “How to use Autofocus in your DSLR”
Buy a canon lol.
Had no idea focus recompose was frowned upon. I’ll try this in future thanks
It means with wide open aperture the focus becomes too sensitive. If object moves even a half of inch from moment you focused to moment you released the shutter the object will be out of focus. By increasing aperture number you’ll increase a depth of field, means small deviations from initial focus will not bring object out of focus. I do not know how else to explain. The more you close aperture the sharper image will be.
Test your camera in a controlled situation.
No idea what that means?
depends what I am doing, sometimes I will have my 300 2.8 other times I will be using my 24-70 or 70-200.
Most of the time its my D3s.
Good Video Cazillo. I also use 99% of the time single point AF. I never thought about the change of focus plane when shooting and recomposing but saying that I just don’t see any problems with my photos (even with wide aperture) maybe cause I focus and recompose maintaining the same plane (no rotation). Especially in those situations you are required to take a fast picture I find much faster focus and recompose rather the change the focus point (but I don’t have a top of the range camera).
What camera do you record with?
You should always use Auto Focus. with manual focus you cant really tell if its tack sharp in the viewfinder and if its off at all it ruins the photo. If you have a decent camera the autofocus should do a much better job than you can do manually and much faster.
You look professional and yet I do not know why do I have to repeat myself about shallow depth of field at wide opened aperture.
Well, good luck on your photos.
Greg, how do we know if we’re not having the problem of back focusing that Nikon cameras are rampant with?
Disagree, I use it all the time.
When shooting parties, it is hard to use a single point like you say. It simply isn’t quick enough.
I really enjoy your videos, for you look at it and discuss things for the normal guy or gal. I have watched some others videos, and they only seem to talk about the best gear, the most expensive lenses etc…, like we all would own D3’s and D4’s etc… So thank you for also talking and explaining things to me and others who can be, and are on budgets sometimes. You are doing a great job, and look forward to viewing alot more of your clips and future clips, well done Greg 10 outta 10.
Hello Gregory, I take pictures of horses and of course we have them move around constantly. Sometimes I use manual focus but for the most part when they’re moving around I use auto focus. But personally what would you use if you were working with horses or any other kind of animal?
Thanks again for all those great tips and explanations on Focus… I shall apply what I’ve learned here…. Most excellent ! Keep up the good work !
I shoot f1.4 portraits all the time…no issues.
Then it’s impossible. Any alive object will move and it will be more severe and not visible than camera movement. The only way to shoot right with f1.4 is from tripod and command person to “freeze”. Of cause you think in your own way anyway. Then, good luck!
…which IS BAD when it changes the way you want the image to look! If I want f1.4 for more bokeh then I want f1.4, not f2.8 or f4 to get subject in focus because I am too lazy to shoot the right way.
Focus and recompose is not that bad, you just need to lower the focus depth, by closing more aperture. And it’s really depends on lens. With Minolta 50mm/f1.7 you will always have a bukeh and Minolta 35-105 has a fixed focus through entire zoom, means 50mm focus length is not a for portrait only. Best focus is always with good illumination of object, the rest is up to the lens, shutter speed, stabilization and camera built.
Really helpful video! Great timing as well haha, ended it right before those folks interrupted the video.
Thanks!!
Very usefull comments: Plane of focus on 3:20; One third/Two thirds Rule 2:20 (example on 8:20)
I personally would recommend single point AF or manual focus for stationary subjects as in portraits, studio work, macro, landscapes to name a few, and continous AF (AI servo in Canon) for moving subjects..ie sports, kids, pets, bride and groom walking down the isle. Great Vids dude keep it up!