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  • Lightroom Local Adjustments – Radial Filter Versus the Adjustment Brush

    Adobe Lightroom is image editing software that allows you to edit and make color adjustments to your photos. Among many, the Radial Filter and Adjustment Brush are two very useful local adjustment tools in Lightroom.

    But often people get confused between both of these tools and are not sure which one to use in which situation. So I thought I’d share a few tips on the basis of which you can easily figure out the importance of each respective tool.

    Radial Filter Tool

    This tool is a blessing for portrait, event, wedding, and wildlife photographers. The reason why I am pointing to these genres of photography is that such photos usually have a single subject in the frame which needs to be highlighted.

    The Radial Filter allows you to select an area using an elliptical mask. Then the shape of the ellipse can be changed by dragging one of the points. Once the area is selected, you can make adjustments inside or outside the shape using the new Brush component depending on your requirements.

    radial filter Lightroom local adjustments

    Adjustment Brush Tool

    The Adjustment Brush is like painting the image canvas with the required adjustments. You can use the mouse pointer, drag and select the area manually where you wish to make desired adjustments. You have the ability to increase or reduce the size of the brush to make a fine and precise selection.

     Lightroom local adjustments - adjustment brush

    Radial Filter or Adjustment Brush? How to Decide?

    As you saw in the example above, using the Radial Filter allows you to select a particular area using the elliptical mask whereas the Adjustment Brush allows you to manually select the area using the cursor.

    As a photographer and a creative person, you have to first visualize the result you want to achieve for your picture. If you believe that using the Radial Filter would suffice for your editing needs, go ahead with it. But if you feel that you need more manual and precise control over the selection of the area where you need desired changes, go with the Adjustment Brush.

    It may sound easy but it might be challenging in some situations, so let me help you with this by looking at two examples.

    Example 1: When to use the Radial Filter

     Lightroom local adjustments - radial filter image of an Indian boy

    In the image above, my intention was to make changes to the area around the face of the boy. Now as the shape of the face is defined, I can easily select the area using the elliptical shape of the Radial Filter tool. Later, if I feel that I need to change the shape of the selection I can easily do that by dragging the points or using the Brush feature.

    It does not make any sense to use the Adjustment Brush in this particular scenario as I can save my time by simply using the Radial Filter.

    Basically, you should use the Radial Filter when the shape of your subject is defined and you can easily make the selection using the ellipse. Weddings, portraits, wildlife, events, and sports are some of the genres of photography where you can use the Radial filter to make changes faster.

    Example 2: When to use the Adjustment Brush Tool

     Lightroom local adjustments - landscape scene sky selected

    In this particular image, I wanted to make exposure and highlight changes selectively in the sky region. As you can clearly see, the shape of the sky area in this photo is not defined therefore I can not use the Radial Filter. If I use the Radial Filter I would either select unwanted areas of the mountains or would miss out some parts of the sky.

    But by using the Adjustment Tool I can manually select the area I want to make changes in and I was able to do that precisely. Though this approach is a bit time consuming as compared to the Radial Filter, but you surely get an accurate selection. Now whatever changes I make would perfectly be made only on the sky region.

    Conclusion

    So the conclusion is that you should be using the Adjustment Brush when the shape of the area that you wish to select is not well defined. Landscapes, Cityscapes, or any photo where the shape of the subject is very complex, the Adjustment Tool would give you much accurate selection than the Radial Filter.

    If you want to read more about each of these tools check out these dPS articles:

    • Creative Use of the Radial Filter in Lightroom
    • Lightroom’s Secret Weapon: The Radial Filter and How to Use it
    • Lightroom Mastery: The Power of the Adjustment Brush
    • 5 Tips for Using the Lightroom Adjustment Brush Tool
    • How to Use the Local Adjustments Tools Inside Lightroom

    The post Lightroom Local Adjustments – Radial Filter Versus the Adjustment Brush appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Sony takes five at the 2018-19 EISA awards

    The European Imaging and Sound Association has announced the winners of its 2018-19 awards, with Sony doing particularly well and coming away with five of the eighteen prizes. The Camera of the Year award went to the Sony a7 III, while the a7R III took Professional Mirrorless Camera of the Year and the Cyber-shot RX10 IV bridge camera came away with the award for the best superzoom model.

    The prize for the best mirrorless camera went to the Fujifilm X-H1 and the Canon EOS M50 was the recipient of a new award for Best Buy Camera. Nikon’s D850 deservedly won Professional DSLR of the Year so the Canon EOS 6D Mark II took the DSLR title.

    Three of the lens awards went to models designed for the Sony system, with the Sony FE 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 GN OSS and FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM being joined by Tamron’s 28-75mm F2.8 Di III RXD in the mirrorless sector. Canon and Nikon took a DSLR lens award each for the EF 85mm F1.4L IS USM and the Nikkor AF-S 180-400mm F4 TC1.4 FL ED VR, while Tamron and Sigma took Tele Zoom and Zoom awards for their 70-210mm F4 Di VC USD and 14-24mm F2.8 DG HSM I Art lenses.

    Best Photo Video Camera went to the Panasonic Lumix DC-GH5s, the Photo Innovation prize went to the Canon Speedlite 470EX-AI and the 40MP sensor of the Huawei P20 Pro was one of the factors that won it the Best Smartphone award.

    We suspect that some readers might be at odds with the decisions made by the EISA Photo Expert Group and will feel that some very good products have been overlooked, so it would be interesting to hear what you all think should have won each award. Remember, EISA only picks products launched in the year up to the end of May 2018.

    For more information, and to see all the awards, visit the EISA website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • A wildlife photographer’s perspective on the Sony a9

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    Aaron Baggenstos is a veteran wildlife photographer and, until recently, almost exclusively a Nikon shooter. For a recent trip to the Alaskan wilderness, he left his D5 at home and instead took the Sony a9. He quickly found the a9 to be more than up to the task, as he details in the video below. While it’s easy to dismiss him as overly enthusiastic at times, it’s certainly tough to argue with the stunning images he was able to capture.

    See what he thought of the a9 in his video review below, and find more of Baggenstos’ work on his Instagram, Facebook, YouTube channel and website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • DJI teases August 23 launch event, new drone in new video

    DJI has published a video on its YouTube channel teasing a new product due out August 23, 2018. No specific details are shared, but at the very beginning of the video, we catch a glimpse of what appears to be an on/off button of a drone.

    After the short clip of what looks like the body of a drone, the narrator of the video says:

    For more than a decade we’ve taken the dimension of space to give you the freedom of flight. But did you think we’d stop there? Let us take you beyond the horizon where something incredible awaits. It’s about time.

    The video wraps up with a clip that overlays the words ‘see the bigger picture.’

    DroneDJ says the on-off button we see at the beginning of the video is likely that of the yet-to-be-announced Mavic 2 Drone. Considering the similarities between the device in the teaser clip and the Mavic Pro, it’s not much of a stretch to draw that conclusion.

    Back in June, DJI sent out an invitation to press outlets teasing an event set for July 18. Three weeks after sending out the invitation, DJI delayed the event, citing issues regarding user experience and customer expectations. We’ll have to wait and see if the August event stays on-track or is pushed back once again.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 6 Quick Tips for Low Light Smartphone Photography

    The team over at COOPH consistently come up with some great video tips. In this one, get 6 tips doing some creative low light smartphone photography.

    Low Light Smartphone Photography Tips

    Summary of the tips:

    1. Backlit portraits
    2. Light painting portraits
    3. Dark object photography
    4. Side-lit portraits
    5. Ghostly exposures
    6. Nighttime cityscapes

    ?
    We have articles here on dPS covering those topics in more detail if you want to try them out with your smartphone or your regular DSLR or mirrorless camera.

    • The dPS Ultimate Guide to Taking Portraits and Photographing People
    • How to Create a Dynamic Light Painting Portrait
    • Five Essentials of Doing Dark Food Photography
    • Why You Should Make Dark Images
    • 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
    • How to Take Unique Double Exposures Without Using Photoshop
    • How to Create a Luminous Look for Your Photographs
    • How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour
    • How to do Long Exposure Photography and Light Trails at Night

    Want more info on smartphone photography? We got a few on that too:

    • Equipment List for Making Better Smartphone Videos
    • Tips for Better Smartphone Photography
    • 9 More Great Apps You Need for Your Smartphone
    • Review: Struman Lenses for Mobile Phones
    • How to Use a Cell Phone for Dramatic Night Photography
    • 8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography
    • How to Get Stunning Macro Photos with Your Mobile Phone

    Tell us, do you haul your main camera with you everywhere you go? Or do you use what you have on you at the time, your smartphone? Do you have any additional tips for better low light smartphone photography? Let us know in the comments below.

    The post 6 Quick Tips for Low Light Smartphone Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Google One cloud storage plans launch publicly for customers in the US

    Earlier this year, Google introduced its new cloud storage service Google One, replacing its Google Drive plans with new alternatives offering more storage at the same price. The company started converting its existing Google Drive paid customers over to Google One, upgrading the original 1TB $ 9.99/month plan to a greater 2TB capacity at the same rate.

    Google One wasn’t available to new customers at the time, but that has changed. Anyone in the United States can now sign up for Google One, which starts at $ 1.99/month for 100GB, increasing to $ 2.99/month for 200GB and $ 9.99/month for 2TB. All Google users still receive 15GB for free with their account.

    Users can upload their own files to Google One, also using the plan for Drive, Gmail, and storing original resolution Google Photos images. The product also includes direct access to help experts, as well as “extra benefits” that Google says will include Play credits, “special hotel pricing,” and more.

    Customers who need to store large amounts of data have three high-capacity options: 10TB for $ 99.99/month, 20TB for $ 199.99/month, and 30TB for $ 299.99/month. Up to five family members can be added to Google One plans. According to Google, other countries will get Google One access “over the next few weeks.” US-based customers can sign up now.

    Via: Google Blog

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Low Light Photography

    Shooting in low light can be challenging, especially for newbie photographers. So now is the perfect time for you to practice so you can master it and be ready for anything!

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Low Light Photography

    Need help? Try these dPS articles:

    • Tips for Better Results When Shooting in Low Light Conditions
    • 6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod
    • 6 Tips for Getting Consistent Results Shooting in Low Light
    • How to Shoot in Low Light – 9 Commonly Asked Questions
    • Cheat Sheet: What Gear and Settings to Use for Low Light Photography

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Is it noisy? Yes but not outrageously so (shot with a Canon 5D Mark III). But without the use of the 50mm lens and high ISO, this shot isn’t even possible.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Low Light Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Hasselblad releases pricing for XV mount adapter

    Owners of V-mount Hasselblad lenses will now be able to use their modern and historic glass on the front of the Hasselblad X1D. The XV adapter hinted at late last year has now been officially announced and will cost €199 / $ 249 / £179.

    This adapter opens the X1D system to over sixty lenses that go back to the beginning of the Hasselblad square format and right up to the beginning of the H system, while the XH adapter allows the fitting of lenses up to the current day. With the XPan adapter as well, Hasselblad now has a solution to allow all its lenses to be used on the X1D.

    As there are no mechanical connects between the camera and the lens adapter the X1D will only function in electronic shutter mode and of course focus and aperture control will be manual only. The adapter weighs 227g, and measures 64mm in length and 84mm in diameter.

    For more information see the Hasselblad website.

    Press release

    HASSELBLAD XV LENS ADAPTER EXPANDS CAPABILITIES OF MEDIUM FORMAT MIRRORLESS PHOTOGRAPHY, LINKING THE FUTURE TO THE PAST

    Hasselblad bridges its legacy and future with the new XV Lens Adapter, providing compatibility for the X1D-50c mirrorless medium format camera to the large range of V System lenses.

    Hasselblad’s iconic V System of cameras and lenses are closely linked to the heritage of many professional image makers. With the new XV Lens Adapter, Hasselblad extends the X1D-50c to the full line of C, CB, CF, CFI, CFE, F and FE lenses; each lens functions solely with the use of the X1D-50c’s electronic shutter feature.

    With over sixty lenses with focal lengths from 30 to 500mm in the V System, the XV Lens Adapter represents expansion of the X System and capabilities of the world’s most compact digital medium format camera.

    The sleek new adapter joins Hasselblad’s other available lenses and accessories for the X System of cameras. Currently, five native XCD Lenses from 21mm to 120mm are available along with support of Hasselblad’s HC/HCD and XPan Lenses.

    The XV Lens Adapter is available now for purchase with a MSRP of €199 / $ 249 / £179 /JPY ?29,000 (excl. VAT) / CNY?2499 (incl. VAT).

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • The Lexar brand makes a return

    The Lexar brand was one of the victims of consolidation in the market for memory solutions when parent company Micron pulled the plug in June 2017, announcing it was going to discontinue the brand. A couple of months later Chinese flash memory giant Longsys acquired the Lexar trademark and branding rights but we have not seen any new Lexar product announcements or other market activity since then.

    Now we have some news, however. Longsys has announced that Lexar will be back “in full production” and shipping globally this fall.

    In a statement Huabo Cai, CEO of Lexar said

    “I’m extremely excited to re-introduce the Lexar brand to our worldwide customers. Lexar is dynamic, has superior research and development capabilities, and has a deep understanding of our customer’s needs. At the same time, we are confident that we can expand the Lexar business successfully in different markets globally.”

    “For more than twenty years of innovative development, Lexar has been a world-renowned brand in the field of flash memory and trusted by bringing unparalleled storage experience and creating unequivocal value for business users and consumers.”

    At this point there is no further detail as to whether the brand will maintain the complete past product line-up which included memory cards, card readers, solid state drives (SSDs) and USB flash drives.

    However, the company says Lexar products are now shipping to retailers globally. Lexar will also be exhibiting at this year’s Photokina trade show in Cologne at the end of September, so hopefully more detail on products will be available by then.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to do Light Painting and Illuminate Your Photography

    The first time I did light painting was by mistake. It was New Year’s Eve, it was cold and dark, my brother was holding a sparkler, and I was playing with my camera.

    Midwinter light painting - How to do Light Painting and Illuminate Your Photography

    I was immediately fascinated by the result. Until then, I had always thought of and used photography as a way to capture what I saw. But there was a photo of something ephemeral I hadn’t perceived with my eyes but could see only thanks to the camera.

    That was a long time ago, but it’s when I started appreciating the camera not just as a tool to record what I saw, but as an additional sense that could help me see even more. My appreciation of light painting has only grown since then.

    Light painting with lights from a broken monitor - How to do Light Painting and Illuminate Your Photography

    What is light painting?

    Light painting is a pretty broad term that includes everything from using a light source to illuminate specific parts of a scene, to using the light itself as the main subject.

    The light source can be everything from a flashlight or a phone to light panels or headlights or even the moon! Basically, it can be anything that emits light.

    Light painting with the moon - How to Write with Light and Illuminate Your Photography

    The light source in this photo is the moon; instead of moving the light source, I moved the camera.

    Light painting is a fun way of taking your photography to the next level. Even if it isn’t something that you think would fit your style of photography, it’s worth trying both for the fun of it and for the things you’re guaranteed to learn about your tools and the art.

    In this article, I hope to give you some inspiration and the basic information you need to start experimenting. I’ll be focusing on the kind of light painting where the light itself is the main subject, and specifically on something that might more accurately be described as light scribbling. You’ll see what I mean.

    Light painting and light scribbling on a piano: the Pythagoras theorem

    What’s the point?

    There is always a point to try something you’re going to learn from, and that you’re going to enjoy doing.

    I’m mainly illustrating this article with some light scribbled equations that I made some time ago. What was the point? Geeking out, finding something to do on a dark winter’s night, getting familiar with my new tripod, practicing manual exposure, and getting better at writing backward.

    I accomplished most of it.

    Einstein's famous equation made by light painting.

    Doing light painting is indeed a great way to learn about camera modes and settings you might not commonly use. For most kinds of light painting, you’ll need darkness, and darkness brings with it a whole new set of challenges.

    You’ll need to do quite long exposures and to find a way to illuminate the parts of the scene you want while avoiding capturing yourself in the picture. You’ll often also need to focus manually and figure out the best exposure for your photo, which can be quite different from that for most other scenes.

    A physiogram made with a head lamp. - How to do Light Painting and Illuminate Your Photography

    A physiogram is made by hanging a light source and photographing its movement.

    I’m mostly using light scribbled equations in this article, but the technique can also be used for creative birthday cards, unique wedding portraits, and a non-permanent kind of street art.

    Your imagination is the limit!

    How complicated is it?

    It’s surprisingly easy to get started with light painting or scribbling, and the basic tools are nothing fancy. At its most basic, you’ll need a camera, a tripod, and a mobile light source. That’s all.

    To get you started, I’ll be using my equations to explain the process and the tools. Use this as a starting point to extrapolate from and to experiment with to get what you want.

    Light painting an equation: the circumference of a circle

    Setup

    To get a photo like the one above, you’ll need your camera and a tripod (or a stable surface to keep your camera on), and a dark night. Since it takes a while to write, your shutter speed should be on Bulb, which means that the shutter stays open until you close it.

    Making many of these long exposure photos will use up your battery quite quickly, especially if it’s also a bit cold outside, so bring an extra battery or two. You need to change the drive mode to self-timer/remote, so you don’t shake the camera when it starts exposing and to help you with focusing.

    Often you don’t need to stress about standing ready to scribble, though. Uou can just walk into the frame after you start the exposure.

    Capturing fire with a long exposure. Light painting tips

    Focusing

    Focusing takes a bit of effort, but it’s nothing too tricky. The difficulty comes from the darkness of the scene, which means that the camera might have a hard time focusing automatically.

    You can focus manually, but what I usually do is let the camera focus automatically. I mark the spot where I’m going to stand to do the scribbling, go to that spot in front of the camera (or ask a helper to do it), turn on my light source and use the remote trigger to take a test shot.

    Then, before doing anything else, I turn the focus to manual so the camera doesn’t start focusing again when I want to take the real photo. This way the camera will stay focused on the spot you chose, as long as you don’t touch the lens.

    Light painting scribbling in the attic: the Hardy-Weinberg equation.

    After that, all that’s left to do is the scribbling!

    Make sure to wear something dark if you don’t want to be visible in your photo. For writing, you want a light source, such as a flashlight, that can be easily turned off and on. This way, you can make separate symbols without too much effort.

    Before you open the shutter and start taking the photo, think about what you’re doing. If you’re writing something, practice the motion you want to do in the air so you get a feel for it. Then start taking the photo, scribble, draw, paint or do whatever it is you want to with your light, and stop the exposure.

    It will probably take a few tries to get it right, so be patient and enjoy the process. You’ll definitely be creating something unique.

    NOTE: You don’t necessarily need to write backward. If there is nothing else in the scene with words you can simply flip the image later on the computer. 

    Light painting equations at night: the Lotka-Volterra equation.

    In this one, the boat worked as a canvas: instead of drawing in the air I could draw straight onto the boat.

    Conclusion

    Drawing or painting with light is a really fun and rewarding exercise that requires some patience, but not much else.

    I’d love to see your photos of light painting and scribbling and hear your thoughts in the comments below.

    The post How to do Light Painting and Illuminate Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School