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Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits

07 Oct

Comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits

If you’ve been looking into portrait photography, whether it be a casual read, in depth, as a hobby, to improve your portraits, or as a pro, you would have come across the use of reflectors. Reflectors come in various sizes, shapes and colours. My favourites are the 5-in-1 circular foldaway reflectors and the rectangular panels you can lean on or clip to a stand.

Have you ever wondered what a side-by-side comparison using different reflector colors would look like? Wonder no more. Below, you can see the different types I used. These photos all share the same white balance and editing as I wanted the colors to be as true a reflection of the effects of the reflectors used as much as possible. I’ve also kept the edits as clean as possible.

#1 Three reflectors, light shirt

dps-comparison-between-reflectors_0000

Top left is a natural light portrait lit only by window light, half-clear and half-frosted (diffused) but with no other reflectors used. The window is large enough for a big spread illuminating both face and background. The portrait on its right shows a rather obvious warm glow all over. I used two gold reflectors: camera right and in the front underneath the face. This setup warmed everything up – shirt, teeth, face and even the background.

Compare the effect of the gold reflector to the bottom left. This one had two silver reflectors positioned in the same places. Notice how cool the color temperature has become. Next to it on the right I once again had the same setup, but this time using two white reflectors. Notice the color temperature is still cool but softer, less sharp and less edgier than the silver one. Look carefully and this difference is more apparent on the teeth and skin tone being just a touch warmer.

#2 Two reflectors, dark shirt

I thought I’d do the same comparison, this time with the subject wearing black. The difference is more dramatic. With the gold reflector, the black is richer and darker, whereas with the silver it’s a little more washed out.

For me these are both a bit extreme, with the gold reflector being too warm and the silver being too cold. If I were to edit these photos without considering the true effects of the reflector I’d tone down the warmth of the gold reflector by half and I’d be good with that. Similarly, I’d warm up the one with the silver reflector in post, both using the white balance slider. I’d then get the happy warm tone that I’m after.

#3 Diffuser reflector and flash

If you’re familiar with the 5-in-1 reflector, you’ll know there are four colored sides: white, silver, gold and black. These sides are made of fabric all stitched together as one zipped wrap. This fabric wraps around a middle standalone piece that’s translucent. This is the diffuser and a super versatile tool. Strictly speaking, the black side doesn’t actually reflect light but rather absorbs it, and is good for cutting light out or using as flags.

This diffuser is great when shooting in harsh outdoor sunlight and you just want to cut the light down or tone it down by placing the diffuser between the sunlight and the subject. In effect, you are creating a slightly shadowed area for the subject, which makes it ideal for portrait lighting outdoors.

I thought I’d try this same technique for my indoor portraits by using this diffuser to cut down light from a flash, thereby acting like a big softbox but without the bounce.

Here are the results. The left photo was lit with one flash on camera right positioned behind the diffuser, which was pretty big and placed close to the subject for a smooth, soft light. The right photo had two flashes, again diffused, with one light overhead to provide hair light and light the background for more separation.

#4 Diffused natural light vs diffused flash

The final comparison is between diffused window light on the left photo and one diffused flash on the right photo. Window light produced softer shadows here, with less contrast and a bigger spread of light. In contrast, the diffused flash had more defined shadows. It’s smaller than the window with less spread of light, but sculpted the face better.

If I were to mimic the higher contrast and shadows produced by the diffused flash, one trick would be to cut out the light by using the black reflector side as a flag. I wasn’t able to do this, however, as I didn’t want my subject to be waiting too long for my experiment. (He only came in for one headshot.)

I hope you found this little comparison exercise fun and enlightening. It’s amazing what the 5-in-1 reflector, a small and inexpensive tool, can do to your portraits.

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DPReview TV: Canon EOS R review

07 Oct

Chris and Jordan have been shooting the EOS R for some time now, starting with the launch in Hawaii. Find out what they think of its still photo capabilities and its unique controls, and tune in for probably the first-ever video performance analysis from a swimming pool.

Get new episodes of DPReview TV every week by subscribing to our YouTube channel!

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style

07 Oct

As a photographer, achieving a consistent and clean photo editing style is important for developing your work.

Depending on your photographic niche, the way you choose to post produce and edit your images is a key factor in achieving cohesiveness in your portfolio. Utilizing editing software such as Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop can help you develop a style and aesthetic that is personal to you.

Let’s discuss some of the necessary elements for achieving a consistent and clean photo editing style. 

Focus on Lighting to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style

In order for your images to look polished and professional, you will want to focus the majority of your edits on making lighting corrections. It is important to note that shooting in camera RAW mode will allow you to make the most of your editing process. If you have this capability, change your image capture mode prior to shooting. 

Lighting corrections in post-production include changes to exposure, highlights, shadows and adjusting your black and white points. By shooting in RAW mode, you can bring details back into the image that may have been lost while shooting by increasing or decreasing some of these lighting values. This allows you to set a base for your images that define your editing style.

Whether you want to create bright, airy images or darker, moody edits – these can all be achieved by manipulating your lighting. 

Take a look at the clean photo editing style in the before and after of the images below. 

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Focus on Lighting example 01

 

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Focus on Lighting example 02

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Focus on Lighting example 03

Avoid Harsh Color Edits 

While using editing programs including Lightroom or Photoshop, it can be easy to over-manipulate the color of your image. With tools such as the RGB curve, HSL or Split Toning, these capabilities can be very powerful and effective when used properly. When aiming to create a consistent and clean photo editing style, avoid harsh or dramatic color edits that appear inauthentic to the original image. 

In order to stay true to the original tones of your image, consider adjusting your white balance to ‘AUTO’ within your camera before shooting. You can manually adjust this using Lightroom if your images are shot in RAW format. The white balance ‘Auto’ mode on your camera is designed to achieve the most authentic and true-to-life color under most shooting circumstances. During the editing process, color adjustments can be made by changing values such as temperature, tint, saturation, hue and tone. 

Each photographer has a colour editing style that is specific and recognizable to their work. Whilst you can create a color style that is unique to you, be sure to remember that professional images maintain accurate color consistency. You want to make sure to change your image color values with intention, and use this same method across your body of work.

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Color Editing - Example 01

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Color Editing - Example 02

Eliminate Distracting or Unnecessary Elements

Another tip to creating a consistent and clean photo editing style is to remove distracting elements from your images. This may include background elements, imperfections of your subject, or even poor composition. Many of these imperfections can be fixed by utilizing removal tools such as healing brushes or the clone stamp.

The overall composition of the image can also be improved by altering the cropping and fixing alignment problems with straightening. In order for your work to have a professional appearance, you must remember to fix the imperfections and pay attention to the smaller details of your images.  

For example, in the image below,  I wanted more of the sky and less of the tree branches. Using the Lightroom Clone Stamp tool, I was able to remove some of the branches by replacing it with the blue detail of the sky. You can change your image as you see fit to avoid an image with distracting or unnecessary elements. 

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Using the Clone Stamp - Example 01

Create Tools for Consistency

The most effective way to create consistent editing in your post-production workflow is to create tools such as presets in Lightroom or actions in Photoshop. These capabilities were created so you can save edits and reapply them across multiple sets of images. Depending on the editing software you prefer to use, presets and actions are both fairly simple to create and integrate into your editing workflow. 

Presets

Presets are used in Adobe Lightroom to copy and paste edits from one image to another. In order to create a preset, you must first make edits to an original image. To do this:

  1. Open your original image in the Develop Module in Lightroom. 
  2. Apply the color edits and lighting adjustments you want to make. 
  3. Once satisfied with your results, navigate to your keyboard and press ‘Command + C’ (the shortcut for copy). 
  4. The Copy Settings dialog box will appear, guiding you to choose the settings you would like to copy. Make your selection and press ‘Copy’. 
  5. Navigate to the left tool bar and find the tab labeled ‘Presets’
  6. Press the ‘+’ button and choose the option of ‘Create Preset’ or alternatively, go to the menu bar, choose ‘Develop’ and then select ‘New Preset’.
  7. A ‘New Develop Preset’ box will appear asking you to name your preset and choose the settings you want to save. 
  8. After you have determined these values, press ‘Create’ and your preset will now show in the ‘User Presets’ tab in the Develop Module.
  9. You can now apply this preset to any of your images with one simple click to paste the edits. 

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Using Presets in Lightroom

 

Here is an example of a before and after edit with one of my personal Lightroom image presets. 

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Using Presets in Lightroom Example image

Actions

Actions are created in Adobe Photoshop by recording adjustments made in the program. Unlike presets, actions are developed by pressing the ‘RECORD’ button while editing your image. Once satisfied with an edit, press the ‘STOP’ button and your action is created. Actions are used for specific adjustments to an image such as color, light and retouching. 

To create an Action, you will need to go to the right side panel and find the ‘play’ button denoted as a triangle pointing to the right. 

  1. Choose the paper icon to ‘Create New Action’.
  2. Name your Action and press ‘RECORD’.
  3. Photoshop will record your adjustments and save them to your new Action.
  4. When you are satisfied with your changes, press the ‘Stop’ button to save it. 
  5. Once your Action is complete it can be applied to your images by selecting the name of your action and pressing the ‘Play’ button.

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Using Action in Photoshop

 

Actions can be very effective for portrait photographers who need to retouch and fine tune the facial features of their subject. You can create actions to smooth skin, remove blemishes and even for methods such as frequency separation.   

Here is an example of a before and after edit with one of my personal Photoshop Color Actions.

How to Achieve a Consistent and Clean Photo Editing Style - Using Action in Photoshop Example image

 

As you can see, a consistent and clean photo editing style is achieved through integrating techniques such as; lighting adjustments, natural color edits, and the elimination of distracting elements. It is also achieved by using tools such as Lightroom Presets or Photoshop Actions. In your body of work, having an editing style that is cohesive and visually appealing will give your images a truly professional touch.

Do you have any tips for creating consistent and clean photo editing styles in either Lightroom or Photoshop? Share with us in the comments below.

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Study sheds light on selfie deaths from around the world

06 Oct

A study newly published by the US National Library of Medicine NIH sheds light on deaths that occurred while taking selfies. The team behind the study found a total of 259 selfie-related fatalities had occurred between October 2011 and November 2017 from a total of 137 incidents around the globe. Risky behavior is cited as the primary cause of these tragedies.

The researchers conducted their study “to assess the epidemiology of selfie-related deaths across the globe,” according to the published research paper. Selfie-related deaths were categorized into two “causes” categories: non-risky behavior and risky behavior.

Risky behavior accounted for the majority of deaths, 72.5% of which involved male and 27.5% of which involved female victims. India was found to have the highest number of reported incidents, with Russia, the US, and Pakistan following. Falling, drowning, and transport-related incidents topped the reasons for the deaths.

As well, the study found that male victims were three times more likely to die during selfies due to risky behaviors, whereas non-risky behavior was the primary cause of female selfie-related fatalities. A recent example of such a tragedy involved 26-year-old Chinese “rooftopper” Wu Yongning who died after falling from a skyscraper.

The researchers conclude that regions with tall buildings, bodies of water, and other similar perilous places should be declared “no selfie zones” to help protect people from potential injuries or death.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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US Congress approves bill granting warrantless private drone take-downs

06 Oct

Following approval by the House earlier this year, the United States Senate has passed the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) Reauthorization Act, which was delivered to the White House on October 3, 2018. Under this bill, which grants the FAA federal funding through 2023, law enforcement officials are given the authority to shoot down and/or confiscate private drones if they’re deemed a credible threat.

As noted recently by The Washington Post, the new bill allows officials to shoot down private drones if they’re “identified as high-risk and a potential target for unlawful unmanned aircraft activity.” In these cases, law enforcement isn’t required to have a warrant to take down or confiscate the aerial vehicle.

Last month, the Electronic Frontier Foundation (EFF) expressed concerns over the reauthorization bill, stating that it had been “stuffed with last-minute provisions that would strip people of their constitution rights.”

Among other things, the EFF pointed toward the warrantless downing of private drones, as well as the lack of a requirement to warn operators when they’re flying in restricted airspace. As well, “the bill still has no process for clearly stating what areas are “covered facilities,” so that the public can know where they are allowed to fly,” the EFF explains.

Critics worry the new authority will enable the Department of Homeland Security and other agencies to take down camera drones used during protests and by reporters, activists, and photographers, all without a warrant. Private drone owners also risk losing possession of their drone if it is confiscated without warning due to being labelled a “threat.”

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tamron issues warning about Nikon Z7 compatibility

06 Oct

Tamron has issued a warning to its customers that some of the company’s Nikon F-mount lenses do not work with the new Nikon Z7 and FTZ adapter. Saying only that ‘issues’ have been discovered, Tamron promises that it is investigating, and will provide further compatibility updates once a solution has been found.

Meanwhile, Sigma has confirmed to DPReview that its Nikon F-mount lenses should work without limitation on the new Z7 and Z6 using Nikon’s FTZ adapter.

Read Tamron’s full statement

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Movement

06 Oct

Your photographic challenge this week is to take and share a photo on the theme of movement.

*** by Tatyana Nevmerzhytska on 500px.com

 

You can interpret this theme in different ways, so long as there is a sense of motion. The photo above features in the following article with tips on how to use wind in your portrait shots.

Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind

Or maybe you might try experimenting with blur and movement. Here are some tips for that:

How to Capture Motion Blur in Photography

And some inspiration for where you can take these kind of shots:

13 Places Take Beautiful Motion Blur Shots

Want to focus more on a range of other shooting techniques you could use? You could try:

  • Panning
  • Zooming
  • other creative Intentional Camera Movement techniques

Or start with a beginners guide to capturing motion in your photography.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Movement

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSMOVEMENT to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

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These 3D-printed hotshoe covers remind you what speed film you have inside your camera

06 Oct

Before the days of LCD displays, the only way you could keep track of what speed film you had in your camera was to remember it, select a dial on the camera, or cut out a piece of the film box and place it in a designated area on the back of the camera.

However, not all cameras have ISO dials or places to put a note; and even if they do, some have a limited range of ISO labels to choose from. To remedy this problem, photographer Guy Sie customized a set of 3D-printed hotshoe covers with common ISO ratings on the top so you can easily check what speed film you have inside your camera.

“On my fully manual ’50s Leica M3 rangefinder camera, the ISO film speed indicator dial on the back only goes up to 200 – the fastest speed available at the time. With film speeds going up to ISO 3200 now the dial is basically useless so I don’t bother with it, but then I have to remember what film I loaded last time I used the camera – which might be weeks ago,” says Sie in the project summary. “After screwing this up a few times too many, I modified gcardinal’s hotshoe covers by adding ISO speed numbers to the top. Load your camera, swap out the cover for the right ISO, and never forget what film is loaded again!”

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The set consists of covers for ISO 100, 125, 160, 200, 320, 400, 800, 1600, and 3200 film stocks. As is, the numbers on the covers are raised, but if you really want to make them pop, you can give them a little coat of paint or black them out with a permanent marker, as Sie has done with the set he made for his Leica M3.

The files for Sie’s hotshoe covers are free to download through Thingaverse. You can print out at home if you have a 3D printer on hand or pay a few dollars to have some made through online print shops like Shapeways or Sculpteo.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Beginner Photography Mistakes You Should Avoid

06 Oct

If you’re relatively new to photography, then Jessica Kobeissi has shared her past experiences to help you avoid making some simple mistakes.

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Kobeissi’s photography tips have garnered her over 1,000,000 subscribers and 60,000,000 views. Over this time, she has definitely had her fair share of mistakes, no doubt about it!

Any good photographer will have made more errors than they can count during their careers, and learning from these mistakes can help you to fast-track your own pictures. It’s the perfect way to cut corners!

The photography mistakes you don’t want to make

Here are some of the mistakes that Kobeissi thinks you should avoid:

  1. Don’t rely on filters and presets that you can apply to your photos in post-production.
  2. Spend time gaining the necessary experience yourself.
  3. Stop shooting the same thing over and over again.
  4. Don’t get caught up in what other people say about your photos.
  5. Plan shoots based on the time of day.

Check out the full video above to see Kobeissi’s explanations of each mistake and, crucially, how you can go about avoiding them in the first place!

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The iPhone XS is a leap forward in computational photography

05 Oct

Aside from folks who still shoot film, almost nobody uses the term ‘digital photography’ anymore – it’s simply ‘photography,’ just as we don’t keep our food in an ‘electric refrigerator.’ Given the changes in the camera system in Apple’s latest iPhone models, we’re headed down a path where the term ‘computational photography’ will also just be referred to as ‘photography,’ at least by the majority of photographers.

The iPhone XS and iPhone XS Max feature the same dual-camera and processing hardware; the upcoming iPhone XR also sports the same processing power, but with only a single camera: the same wide-angle F1.8 one on the other models. The image sensor captures 12 megapixels of data, the same resolution as every previous model dating back to the iPhone 6s, but the pixels themselves are larger at 1.4 µm, compared to 1.22 µm for the iPhone X, meaning a slightly larger sensor. (For more on the camera’s specs, see “iPhone XS, XS Max, and XR cameras: what you need to know.”)

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More important this year is upgraded computational power and the software it enables: the A12 Bionic processor, the eight-core ‘Neural Engine,’ and the image signal processor (ISP) dedicated to the camera functions. The results include a new Smart HDR feature that rapidly combines multiple exposures for every capture, and improved depth-of-field simulation using Portrait mode. (All the examples throughout are straight out of the device.)

Smart HDR

This feature intrigued me the most, because last year’s iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus and iPhone X introduced HDR as an always-on feature. (See “HDR is enabled by default on the iPhone 8 Plus, and that’s a really good thing.”) HDR typically blends two or more images of varying exposures to end up with a shot with increased dynamic range, but doing so introduces time as a factor; if objects are in motion, the delay between captures makes those objects blurry. Smart HDR captures many interframes to gather additional highlight information, and may help avoid motion blur when all the slices are merged into the final product.

The iPhone XS image almost looks as if it was shot using an off-camera flash

Testing Smart HDR proved to be a challenge, because unlike with the HDR feature in earlier models, the Photos app doesn’t label Smart HDR images as such. After shooting in conditions that would be ripe for HDR – bright backgrounds and dark foreground, low-light conditions at dusk – nothing had that HDR indicator. I wasn’t initially sure if perhaps the image quality was due to Smart HDR or the larger sensor pixels; no doubt some credit is due to the latter, but it couldn’t be that much.

Comparing shots with those taken with an iPhone X reveals Smart HDR at work, though. In the following photo at dusk, I wanted to see how well the cameras performed in the fading light and also with motion in the scene (the flying sand). The iPhone X image is dark, but you still get a fair bit of detail in the girl’s face and legs, which are away from the sun. The iPhone XS image almost looks as if it was shot using an off-camera flash, likely because the interframes allow highlight retention and motion freezing even as ‘shutter speeds’ become longer.

Shot with iPhone X
Shot with iPhone XS

As another example, you can see the Smart HDR on the iPhone XS working in even darker light compared to the iPhone X shot. At this point there’s more noise in both images, but it’s far more pronounced in the iPhone X photo.

Shot with iPhone X Shot with iPhone XS

Smart HDR doesn’t seem to kick in when shooting in burst mode, or the effect isn’t as pronounced. Considering the following photo is captured at 1/1000 sec, and the foreground isn’t a silhouette, the result isn’t bad.

iPhone XS image shot in burst mode. It’s dark, but picks up the detail in the sand.
iPhone XS image shot in burst mode.
iPhone XS non-burst image captured less than a minute after the photo above.

Portrait Mode

The iPhone’s Portrait mode is a clever cheat involving a lot of processing power. On the iPhone X and iPhone 8 Plus, Apple used the dual backside cameras to create a depth map to isolate a foreground subject – usually a person, but not limited to people-shaped objects – and then blur the background based on depth. It was a hit-or-miss feature that sometimes created a nice shallow depth-of-field effect, and sometimes resulted in laughable, blurry misfires.

On the iPhone XS and iPhone XS Max, Apple augments the dual cameras with Neural Engine processing to generate better depth maps, including a segmentation mask that improves detail around the edge of the subject. It’s still not perfect, and one pro photographer I know immediately called out what he thought was a terrible appearance, but it is improved, and in some cases most people may not recognize that it’s all done in software.

The notable addition to Portrait mode in the iPhone XS and iPhone XS Max is the ability to edit the simulated depth of field within the Photos app. A depth control slider appears for Portrait mode photos, with f-stop values from F1.4 to F16. The algorithm that creates the blur also seems improved, creating a more natural effect than a simple Gaussian blur.

Apple also says it’s analyzed the optical characteristics of some “high-end lenses” and tried to mimic their bokeh. For instance, the simulated blue should produce circular discs at the center of the image but develop a ‘cats-eye’ look as you approach the edge of the image. The company says that a future update will include that control in the Camera app for real-time preview of the effect.

Portrait mode is still no substitute for optics and good glass. Sometimes objects appear in the foreground mask – note the coffee cup over the shoulder at left in the following image – and occasionally the processor just gets confused, blurring the horizontal lines of the girl’s shirt in the next example. But overall, you can see progress being made toward better computational results.

Flare and a Raw Footnote

One thing I noticed with my iPhone XS is that it produced more noticeable lens flare when catching direct light from the sun or bright sources such as playing-field lights, as in the following examples; notice the blue dot pattern in the foreground of the night image.

Since I wanted to focus on the Smart HDR and Portrait mode features for this look, I haven’t shot many Raw photos using third-party apps such as Halide or Manual (the built-in Photos app does not include a Raw capture mode). Sebastiaan de With, the developer of Halide, determined that in order to make faster captures, the camera is shooting at higher ISOs, and then de-noising the results via software. With Raw photos, however, that results in originals that aren’t as good as those created by the iPhone X, because they’re noisier and exposed brighter. You can read more at the Halide blog: iPhone XS: Why It’s a Whole New Camera.

Overall, though, the camera system in the iPhone XS and iPhone XS Max turn out to be larger improvements than they initially seemed, especially for the majority of iPhone owners who want to take good photos without fuss. Apple’s computational photography advancements in these models deliver great results most of the time, and point toward more improvements in the future.

iPhone XS sample gallery

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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