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  • Panasonic Lumix LX100 II sample gallery

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    The Panasonic LX100 II offers a higher-resolution sensor over its predecessor, but it’s the addition of a touchscreen that makes the Mark II so gosh-darn enjoyable to shoot with. We’re working through a full review of the camera, but in the meantime, here’s our initial sample gallery.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Sony announces Alpha Female program offering $25,000 grants and mentorships

    Sony has announced a new “Alpha Female” program, a creator-in-residence opportunity that will award six-month grants to five female filmmakers and photographers. The program, which is no longer accepting submissions, aims to “elevate diversity in thought and creation,” according to Sony. The first class of recipients will be announced some time early this month.

    The awarded grants include $ 25,000 in funds, as well as $ 5,000 in product loans and another $ 5,000 in product allowances. The program is a mentorship that involves being paired with Sony Artisans of Imagery, and there’s also guaranteed presentations at LA and New York exhibits for all five participants. The program is open to US and Canadian applicants only.

    Sony has also vowed to fund projects by women in its Alpha Imaging Collective and Artisans of Imagery, as well as photography and filmmaking events that are focused on and backed by women.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Halide update brings Smart RAW, Apple watch update and more

    Popular iOS camera app Halide has received its latest update. Halide version 1.10 comes with a new Smart HDR feature, an improved watch app for the Apple Watch Series 4 , and more.

    Smart RAW is a feature specifically designed for the new iPhone XS, XS Max and XR models. In a recent blog post Halide founder Sebastiaan de With detailed how the new iPhones tend to use higher ISO values and more aggressive noise reduction than previous iterations, presumably to enable Apple’s new SmartHDR feature and/or reduce motion blur on moving subjects.

    Smart RAW uses an exposure logic that is different from the default iPhone camera and uses lower ISOs for lower levels of noise and better image detail in Raw files. The feature is unnecessary on the iPhone X or 8 as those older models use smaller sensors and are by default programmed to use the lowest possible ISO setting.

    The update also brings a feature that lets you easily compare JPG image output to its Raw counterpart, allowing you to decide which format is best for a particular job. The Halide watch component has been optimized for the larger screen on Apple’s new Watch Series 4.

    The developers say they have also done some cleaning up of the code and have shrunk the app down to half the size of the previous version. You can download Halide version 1.10 now from the Apple App Store for $ 5.99.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Manfrotto launches a trio of new center ball heads

    Italian tripod maker Manfrotto has updated its line of ball tripod heads. The new 490 center ball head is an affordable model designed with simplicity in mind. The entire head is controlled via single knob, making sure the new model is easy to use. It comes with Manfrotto’s RC2 200LT-PL plate and allows for quick positioning of the camera into portrait orientation.

    The company has also redesigned its 492 and 492LCD heads. Both models are manufactured in Italy and designed with ergonomics and convenience of use in mind. The LCD version comes with a cold shoe mount, allowing for mounting on top of a camera to hold external displays or others accessories via a 1/4-inch tripod mount.

    The new heads are targeted at amateur photographers and have a payload of 4KG, making them ideal for smaller camera/lens combination, such as Micro Four Thirds mirrorless cameras or entry-level DSLRs.

    At $ 50 (GBP 44.95) the 490 is the most affordable of the new center ball heads. The 492 is $ 60 (GPB 54.95) and the 292LCD will set you back $ 70 (GBP 64.95).

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Why Goal Planning Is the Key to Growing as a Landscape Photographer

    “I invest so much time in my landscape photography, but can’t tell how much I’m improving or even where I’ll be in a year. I think I’m getting better, but slowly and haphazardly.”

    Do you have a strategy for becoming a better photographer? What areas do you want to improve in over the next few weeks? Most of us learn passively, but what if you could get more out of every shoot and see progress in months instead of years?

    It starts with being intentional – something we don’t often practice in the day-to-day.

    Taking an active role can double your learning speed. And it starts by setting measurable goals and introspecting your photos – and yourself – often.

    Sella Towers, Dolomites, Italy

    Brunate Lago Di Como, Italy

    A couple of years ago I wasn’t noticing much improvement in my photography. It was definitely there, but it happened slowly and I didn’t have a clear direction of how I wanted to improve in the future.

    Fast forward to my last trip to Oregon, where I made a point of applying some goal planning and retrospectives before, during and after the shoot. I learned more in two weeks than I had in two years, and brought back some of my favorite photos to date.

    Mt Bachelor, Cascade Lakes Bend, Oregon

    Smith Rock Bend, Oregon

    Maybe you’ve heard of objectives and key results (OKRs) or ‘being results-oriented’ from managers or personal trainers. They seem like fuzzy topics, but there’s nothing more empowering than charting your own course to improvement.

    I couldn’t be happier with the improvement I noticed while peeking at photos from just two years ago. Whether it’s a cursory glance or a deeper artistic critique, I can see measurable improvement that directly correlates with intentional goal planning.

    And it’s not just the keeper shots that have improved. I shoot noticeably fewer photos (more of which end up being keepers), and it takes less editing for me to finish them up.

    Here’s how you can take an active role in charting your own improvement as a landscape photographer.

    1. Document Your Objectives

    Have you stopped to ask yourself why you’re a landscape photographer in the first place? Your “Why?” doesn’t have to be etched in stone, but it will guide how you invest your time and money into growing.

    Here are some example objectives. “I invest time in my landscape photography because:”

    • “I love to travel.”
    • “I want to make a full-time living.”
    • “I want to capture unique locations.”
    • “I want to grow my local following.”
    • “I want to be the best in my craft.”

    You probably have several objectives in mind, so the next step is to prioritize them. Which objective(s) trumps the others in the competition for your time? Objectives are critical because they help us identify conflicts of interest. Once you start formulating goals, you want to ensure they naturally support your objective.

    For example, you may be a landscape photographer because you love traveling, but your goal is to sell prints to local condos. These may well clash with each other, as marketing your work to local businesses would mean less freedom to travel. You may need to find another way to support your wanderlust – even if it’s unrelated to photography.

    2. Formulate Effective Goals

    Setting a goal often has a disheartening tone. We’ve all made goals or resolutions that yielded no results other than self-reproach. “Oh, I didn’t lose 10 pounds.” “I didn’t write half as much as I wanted.”

    Self-reproach is often a symptom of a poorly chosen goal. Effective goals aren’t about slapping yourself for missing them. They’re about deliberately deciding how you want to invest your time and resources. It’s about determining the trajectory you want to take instead of floating with the fluctuations of each day.

    Here are two of my personal goals:

    1. Capture and produce better photography
    2. Expand my photography audience

    But while these goals capture a general direction, they aren’t concrete. So I like to follow them up with more specific formulations for what success looks like.

    1. Expand portfolio with shots that have a compelling foreground, middleground and background.
    2. Write for two new publications.

    3. Apply and Adapt Shoot Goals

    Along with your general goals and results, set specific goals for each landscape photography trip. I often source my shoot goals from notes I took in the field, or frustrations I faced in post production.

    On my last trip to Ireland and the UK, I set some goals that I reread during each shoot:

    • Create a sense of depth with fog and haze
    • Root the image with stronger foregrounds
    • Consciously identify shapes in the composition
    • Capture the energy in water and clouds with long exposures
    • Take 20% fewer photos with a higher ratio of winners
    • Shoot more verticals to emphasize height

    Man-O-War Bay, Dorset, England

    South Stack Lighthouse, Wales

    Referencing these goals when I hit the field bumps me out of my status quo. Over the past two years, I’ve found that most of my measurable growth as an artist came from setting and intentionally applying shoot goals.

    4. Break Goals into Results

    Objectives give you direction. Goals give you outcomes. But neither tells you how to accomplish them or how much progress you’ve made towards them. That’s where results come in.

    How will you accomplish your goals? You can’t. They’re too big, and say nothing about what actions you should take. To reach your goals, they need to be broken down into small, measurable steps called results – small tasks you can complete in no more than a day. A well-formulated result must measurably contribute towards the overall goal.

    Results need to be carefully phrased so they reflect tangible outcomes. For example:

    • “Edit for one hour every day.”
    • “Spend 30 minutes writing about photography.”

    These results are ineffective because they involve time. Who cares whether you spent 30 minutes editing or three hours? Instead, phrase them in terms of tangible outcomes:

    • “Finish a rough edit of three photos today.”
    • “Finish outlining my upcoming photography post.”

    Each of these results produces something of value – edited photos and an outlined post – and can be completed in one sitting. And the faster you complete each result, the sooner you can move on to other things.

    Breaking down goals into results is hard to do in any field, whether it’s productivity, photography or software development. And it’s the number one reason we fail to accomplish anything.

    Don’t tackle a goal and plan as you go. Planning and execution are two different skills. And when we do them simultaneously we ironically spend the least time on the hardest part: planning. It sounds counterintuitive, but once I break the goal into results, executing them is usually the easiest part.

    What about self-imposed deadlines? Personally I’ve had limited success with them because time is a poor measure of progress. I sketch out a rough timeline (“by this time next year”), but I keep those dates with my goals instead of my results. As long as my results are prioritized, deadlines are often arbitrary because I’m always working on the most valuable results.

    How are you spending your time so each minute counts? Results are the answer, not time.

    5. Do a Retrospective

    The learning doesn’t end after a shoot. In fact, I learn the most by reviewing photographs from the shoot that didn’t quite work out. It sounds counterintuitive, but thanks to a cognitive bias called survival bias we tend to:

    • overestimate what we can learn from successful shots
    • underestimate what we can learn from shots that didn’t make the cut.

    Consequently, we end up discarding our best source of learning material.

    To beat survivorship bias, conduct a retrospective on some of your failed shots to understand why they didn’t work, and what you’ll do differently next time.

    Slea Head, Dingle, Ireland

    None of my shots from Slea Head on Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula worked out. But later in the trip I applied the lessons I learned about S-curve placement and busy water textures to capture a shot of Loch Garry in the Scottish Highlands.

    Loch Garry, Scotland

    Retrospectives are incredibly effective at distilling lessons that will set your next shoot up for success. And they often form my shoot goals for the next trip. On this year’s trip to Oregon, my goals changed to reflect the lessons I learned from Ireland and the UK:

    • Capture two stunning images per day for a total of 26 from the trip.
    • Identify the emotion of a scene, then highlight it with composition and light.
    • Spend 30% less time snapping photos, and instead spend it testing compositions.
    • Shoot exclusively at dawn and twilight, and spend the rest of the day trying compositions on my smartphone.
    • Use an ND filter for water without exception.
    • Identify a strong foreground, middleground, and background before snapping.
    • Don’t waste a second on angles filled with busy textures.

    I would have forgotten many of these shoot goals if I hadn’t written them down and reviewed them before each shoot. Being intentional paid off. As I said earlier, I learned more in two weeks than I had in two years of shooting, and produced some of my favorite work to date.

    Roads End, Oregon

    Chart Your Course to Improvement Intentionally

    While goal planning comes in many flavors and terminologies, they all share the goal of helping individuals connect desired outcomes with strategic actions. The key to accelerated growth is to learn intentionally, not passively.

    Spend a few minutes over coffee today to document why you are a landscape photographer, what you want to become, and how you will accomplish it. Whether you’re in the field, post production, or an office crunching through tangential work, goal planning will ensure you’re investing your time well and learning as much as possible from your efforts.

    The post Why Goal Planning Is the Key to Growing as a Landscape Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Mindset Shifts You Need to Be Successful in Photography

    You love photography. You live it, you breathe it, and it’s all you can ever think of doing in your life. And you’re good – better than some of the other people you know who also love photography.

    But despite all this you feel… stuck. You’re not booking jobs, getting clients or making money. And when you post your best work on social media all you hear are crickets.

    So what’s the problem? Well, it may surprise you to hear it may not be a technical issue at all but rather an issue with your subconscious.Karthika Gupta Photography - mindset shifts to be successful in photography

    Today I want to talk about how you can totally transform your life, your relationships and your work. It isn’t a course you can take or a YouTube video you can watch. It’s something that’s free, powerful, and completely within your control.

    Changing your mindset.

    Thinking differently can have a profound effect on your entire life. But here are five mindset shifts you need to be successful in photography.

    1. Practice Makes Perfect

    There really are no two ways about this. The best way to get better at something is to do it over and over again. The more you get out there and photograph, the more you’ll understand what you like, what makes you happy and what areas you need to improve in. Want to understand light and how it affects photos? Go out and photograph in different kinds of light. Want to photograph people? Set up shoots and practice photographing people. The more you do, the more you create and the better you become.

    Karthika Gupta Photography - mindset shifts to be successful in photography 7

    This was my client’s favorite photo from her photoshoot. It showcased her artwork in a unique way. The more you practice, the more you’ll start telling stories in your unique way.

    One of the easiest ways to practice photography is to sign up for a 365 series, which is a commitment to create one photo every day for 365 days. You can use a DSLR, a point-and-shoot camera, or even a smartphone.

    You can even take it a step further by joining one of the many online groups available. They’re created solely to encourage you to photograph and post a single photo every day for 365 days straight. They even provide photo prompts to help you stay on track so you’re constantly thinking of what to photograph.

    Karthika Gupta Photography - mindset shifts to be successful in photography

    Practice also makes you more confident. Now when I see a story play out, I’m not afraid to ask my clients or strangers to be actors in the story. A pub became a scene for some unique wedding photos for my clients.

    One of my goals is to learn film photography. I have an old 35mm Canon AE-1, and I have run several rolls of film to try and get images that I love. The first time I used that camera, I didn’t even wind the film correctly. So I ended up sending a blank roll of film to be processed. That was $ 20 well spent.

    2. Overnight Success is a Myth

    This ties to the first point. You must be prepared to invest a lot of time and effort to get your work seen and acknowledged. It’s highly unlikely that you’ll be an overnight success with lots of clients and potential work  lining up. I’m not saying it’s impossible, but the probability is quite low. So instead of leaving your career to chance, why not take matters into your own hands and have a plan to do the work consistently? Learn all there is to learn about what you want to focus on in your photography and consistently put out good work.

    Karthika Gupta Photography - mindset shifts to be successful in photography

    It’s taken me several years and thousands of photos to train my brain to recognize light and create a story before I even click the shutter. This is one of my favorite photos that I call ‘Light and shadow: Ride and rider’. To me it shows the symbiosis between these two pairs.

    3. Healthy Competition is a Good Thing

    In any given industry there’s always competition. Sometimes the competition plays fair, and sometimes it doesn’t. I’m not pointing fingers at anyone or anything. I’m just stating the obvious.

    Most people who picks up a camera intent on becoming a photographer do it for the money, the fame, or some combination of the two. Learn to play well with your competition. What sets you apart isn’t your skills or technique. Anyone can learn to do something if they put their mind and effort into it. What sets you apart is you. Your style, your aesthetic and the way you view something is unique. There will be clients who love what you do because of the way you do it, and there will be those who’d rather go with the other guy. That’s just part of the game. Accept it, and make friends with your competitors. It’s better to have friends in the industry you’re playing in than enemies.

    Karthika Gupta Photography - mindset shifts to be successful in photography

    I’d heard of double exposure before, but I never understood it until a friend and fellow photographer sat down with me and explained it step by step. Now it’s one of my favorite ways of creative photography, and my clients love it.

    4. Go With the flow

    I wish someone told me this when I first started my business. I was caught up in perfection – the perfect logo, the perfect website, the perfect portfolio, a printing vendor, business cards, etc. I spent so much time making sure all my ducks were in a row that I stalled the process more than I helped it along. Having a vision of what I wanted to do was getting lost in actually doing the project.

    Sometimes it’s good to take a step back, figure out what the big picture is, and then keep moving along to achieving it. Perfection is a myth. Nothing is perfect, and it’s much better to get something done and accomplished than to wait until everything falls into place. Just keep moving along towards your goal.

    Karthika Gupta Photography - mindset shifts to be successful in photography

    Things always work out exactly how they’re meant to be in the end.

    5. Have a Positive Attitude

    Our life is a reflection of our attitude. Without even noticing, it’s easy to become negative and bitter towards the world and the photography industry. Why are some people more successful than us? Why do some photographers get all the jobs? Why can’t I book more clients? The questions can go on forever.

    Not only does a negative attitude stop you from enjoying your life, it can also have a significant impact on your work and your craft. After all, you love this art form. That’s why you’re here, right? You want to learn, engage, and get better at it. The energy a person brings with them is contagious. We all have bad days, no matter how people portray themselves. Every time I feel angry or jealous of someone else’s success, I remind myself that just because I can see what they’ve accomplished doesn’t mean I know what they’ve gone through and sacrificed to get there. One of the best things you can do for your passion for photography is to have a positive attitude.

    Karthika Gupta Photography - mindset shifts to be successful in photography

    You’ll find that happy medium of working with people who really appreciate what you do and love your work. They are your ideal clients.

    I hope some of these mindset shifts help you navigate the choppy photography waters. Remember, there’s no such thing as a free lunch! Success in any shape or form takes a lot of time and hard work. Roll up your sleeves, work your hardest, and you will get there.

    The post 5 Mindset Shifts You Need to Be Successful in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Fujifilm X-T3 image quality: very competitive at low ISO

    The Fujifilm X-T3 exhibits very good image quality overall, with excellent detail and color at low ISOs. Further analysis of the high ISO performance confirms it falls behind its predecessor, though.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • SLC-2L-04: Use a Tight Grid to Create Color

    Normally, you might think of a grid spot for what it creates: a tight zone of light. But it also can be helpful to think of it in terms of the inverse: a grid also prohibits light from reaching everywhere else.

    And the "everywhere else" part—that relative blackness you can create with a gridded key—is what can help you to amp the color palette in even a small room with light-toned walls.

    Read more »
    Strobist

  • Abstract Table, An Interesting Tasting Menu in Oakland, California

    Duncan Kwitkor and Andrew Greene, Abstract Table
    Chefs Duncan Kwitkor and Andrew Greene — Abstract Table, offering up a 5 and 7 course tasting menu Friday and Saturday nights at Gastropig.

    Last night my wife and I had a chance to dine at the opening of a new pop up style 7 course tasting menu called Abstract Table, currently being offered as permanent Friday and Saturday night dinner service at the Gastropig in Oakland’s Uptown District. The menu is prepared by chefs/artists/friends Andrew Greene and Duncan Kwitkorand (formerly of Duchess in Oakland’s Rockridge District). The duo’s initial tasting menu features many unique and interesting flavors put together loosely around a Japanese style with a “Fine Dining on Paper” theme. Courses are served on paper and metal trays.

    This is the first dinner series at the Gastropig and Greene and Kwitkorand plan to offer a winter themed tasting menu later this year as well. The tasting menu is modestly priced at $ 50 for a 5 course tasting and $ 70 for a 7 course tasting. Wine and sake are offered to accompany the meal or you can bring your own bottle (like we did with the excellent 2000 Peter Michael Les Pavots) and pay corkage.

    Of the 7 courses that we tried I think my personal favorites were the ocean trout with wild arugula sage, pickled grilled cucumber and coconut and the dessert panna cotta. My wife enjoyed the bok choy quite a bit and thought it was an interesting and unique approach to a salad. Overall I found every course quite enjoyable and appreciated the artistic orientation and presentation to the food. It is nice to see an interesting tasting menu approach and a new addition to Oakland’s food scene, especially at a fairly reasonable price.

    They are currently offering two dinner services, one at 6pm and one at 8:30pm. Reservations are available via Resy.

    More from Eater San Francisco here and the San Francisco Chronicle here.

    More of my photos from last night’s opening here.

    Oh and if you still haven’t had the baconslut egg sandwich at breakfast at Gastropig yet you are missing out!

    Abstract Table

    Abstract Table
    First course: Japanese mushroom soup, mitsuba, negs oil

    Abstract Table
    Second course: Bok choy, sea bean, pear, hazelnut, yuzu kasha vinaigrette

    Abstract Table
    Intermezzo: Coastlive Farms heirloom tomato, purple yam, miso

    Abstract Table
    Third course: Charcoal beet, oyster mushroom, furikake granola, fish caramel

    Abstract Table
    Fourth course: Ocean trout, wild arugula sage, pickled grilled cucumber, coconut

    Abstract Table
    Fifth course: Beef cheek, turnip, tamari onion, edamame puree, sake glaze

    Abstract Table
    Sixth course: Lamb breast, smoked cauliflower, Japanese eggplant, togarashi honey

    Abstract Table
    Seventh course: Hojicha panna cotta, persimmon, white chocolate tile, pomegranate granita

    Peter Michael Winery 2000 Les Pavots
    The excellent 2000 Peter Michael Les Pavots

    Abstract Table
    Dinner service Friday and Saturday evenings at Abstract Table


    Thomas Hawk Digital Connection

  • A Love Letter to the Humble Softbox

    When it comes to shaping and modifying your light, there are so many options available it can be hard to stay in one place for long. In the beginning, you’ll use the basics such as a softbox or an umbrella. But as you get comfortable with noticing the tiny differences in light, you’ll quickly graduate to more specialized modifiers. Beauty dishes, reflectors (the kind that fits to a strobe), octaboxes and striplights all do wonderful things to your light. And you can easily get caught up in the ways these and other modifiers can be used.

    Overlooked

    Despite all these options, I feel the basics can sometimes be overlooked. Have you ever stopped to think why the humble softbox has become so universal? No doubt there are many answers to that question, but an important one is that it works – and works well.

    To be clear, I’m talking about the basic rectangular photographic softbox around 3′ x 4′. Not too large, and not too small. (Popup softboxes have their place, but we’re not talking about them in this article.) With the right techniques, these workhorses of the photographic studio can give you beautiful, soft light that suits just about any subject you can think of.

    Basics

    You probably already know the basics of how a softbox works. But for the sake of posterity, let’s go through it again.

    A softbox is mounted on the front of the strobe to shape and more evenly distribute the light. They’re often fitted with silvery material on the inside to help bounce the light around and ensure it spreads evenly through the diffusion material at the front. This diffusion material effectively becomes your light source. Because your light source is now much bigger than the bare strobe, the quality of light changes from hard to soft (hence the name ‘softbox’).

    Manipulating the quality of the light gives you much more flattering light for almost any subject, especially portraits.

    Never Forgotten

    For these reasons a great deal of photographers start their camera lighting with a softbox. They’re cheap, easy to find and use, and provide excellent results. But as their skills increase, and new and more complicated techniques open up, it can be hard to resist the allure of fancy, niche modifiers.

    For a few years I used nothing but a beauty dish. Even now I tend to favor large octaboxes for portraits. But in this article I want to show you that just because you’ve moved on to other things doesn’t mean you should forget the basics. As I said, there’s a reason the softbox has become so universal.

    Examples

    Here are several examples of what you can achieve with a simple 3′ x 4′ softbox that cost around $ 35.

    Note: As you’ll see in the annotations, for some of these shots a 5-in-1 reflector ($ 15) was also used.

    1.

    In this example, the softbox is directly in front of and offset slightly from the subject. This results in a lighting pattern called ‘loop lighting’. Because the light source is so close, the resulting soft light is ideal for portraits.

    2.

    Like the previous example, the softbox for this image is really close to the subject. But this time, it’s placed at 45 degrees and slightly above. Look at the catchlights in his eyes, and you can see exactly how close the light source is. Again, the light here is really soft, and you can see this quality in the smooth tonal transitions from the highlight areas to the shadow areas.

    3.

    This setup is almost the same as the previous setup, except the softbox is slightly further away and there’s a white reflector at camera right.

    Placing the light further away reduces the speed of the light falloff, which in this case means that the shadows don’t dominate as quickly as in the previous example. The reflector also helps with this.

    4.

    Medium-sized softboxes are well suited to clamshell-styled setups. Simply place your softbox directly in front of and above your subject, pointed down at 45 degrees. Then place a reflector underneath and pointed upwards at 45 degrees. (Without a reflector this would be called ‘butterfly lighting’.)

    5.

    Softboxes can be used to great dramatic effect when used as side lighting. Deep shadows and soft highlights can really add a lot of depth to your images.

    6.

    The previous examples all had the softbox in close for the softest possible light. You can also pull your light source back to make use of harder light to good effect. But pay close attention to the clearer transitions between the shadow and highlight areas.

    The End

    I’m not telling you to limit yourself to a softbox. By all means, go out and use and explore every modifier you can get your hands on. Just remember that as you’re planning your lighting for any given situation, sometimes the ease and simplicity of the basics might give you the results you need.

    The post A Love Letter to the Humble Softbox appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School