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  • Lawsuit claims Apple’s dual-camera setup in recent iPhones infringes on 2003 patent

    A lawsuit filed with the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California on Tuesday claims the cameras in Apple’s iPhone 7 Plus and newer dual-camera models infringe on a patent that was granted in 2003 and is based on an invention from 1999.

    Plaintiffs Yanbin Yu and Zhongxuan Zhang allege Apple’s dual-cameras are in infringement of U.S. Patent No. 6,611,289 for “Digital cameras using multiple sensors with multiple lenses”.

    The patent describes methods for capturing multiple images using multiple lens and sensor arrays. The patent focuses on a four-camera setup that captures images on monochrome sensors and merges them into a single color image. According to the lawsuit Apple was aware of the existing patent as early as 2011.

    The complaint also alleges that Apple’s own multi-sensor camera patent No. 8,115,825, “Electronic device with two image sensors.” which was filed for in 2008 and granted in 2012, claimed “many of the same features” as the patent from Yu and Zhang.

    The plaintiffs note that Apple made significant investments into its dual-camera technology, acquiring 3D sensor specialist PrimeSense in 2013 and camera technology company LinX Imaging in 2015 but did not seek to license Yu and Zhang’s patent, launching several iPhone models knowing they were infringing on somebody else’s patent.

    This is not the first time Apple has camera-related legal problems. Earlier this year Israel-based company CorePhotonics also files a lawsuit against the US company. We’ll continue to keep an eye on both cases.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Luna Display, the dongle that turns your iPad into a second screen, now available online

    Luna Display, the little hardware dongle that turns your iPad into a second display, is now available to consumers. Luna Display was developed by the makers of the Astropad, an iOS app that turns your iPad into a graphics tablet for the Mac, and started out as a crowdfunding project on Kickstarter.

    Luna is available for USB-C or Mini DisplayPort and works through a Wi-Fi connection. The device lets you use your Mac directly from the iPad with full support for external keyboards, Apple Pencil and Apple touch interactions including pinching, panning and tapping.

    According to its makers Luna Display can tap into the processing power of your Mac’s GPU, allowing for a virtually lag-free user experience and images without glitching, artifacts, or blurriness which purely software-based solutions are prone to.

    Luna Display requires a Mac running macOS 10.11 El Capitan (or later). For optimal performance a MacBook Air (2012 and later), MacBook Pro (2012 and later), Mac mini (2012 and later), iMac (2012 and later) or Mac Pro (Late 2013) are recommended.

    The iPad must run iOS 9.1 or newer and should be an iPad 2 (or later), any iPad Mini, or any iPad Pro.

    Luna Display is now available for $ 79.99 on the Luna website where you’ll also find more information.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Reverse-Engineer a Photo

    Although it sounds like a highly technical term, ‘reverse engineering’ is something you’ve done many times. Any time you’ve asked questions like “What camera did you take that with?”, “What settings did you use?” or “Where was this taken?”, you’ve been trying to reverse engineer a photograph.

    lake how to reverse engineer photos

    We’ve all looked at a photo and tried to figure out how it was created. I do it every day. Whether you’re conscious of it or not, when you see a photo you admire you try to analyze it. You’re asking, “How do I take photos like that?”

    The truth is, if you ask the photographer about their camera or settings you’re asking the wrong questions. By all means, ask questions. After all, that’s how we learn. But you can also learn a lot from studying an image – if you know what to look for. When you can visually deconstruct an image, you’re one stop closer to being able to create something similar.

    This isn’t a lesson in plagiarism. It’s simply a way to learn from other photographers whose work you admire. No successful artist would be where they are today without learning from the works of others they look up to.

    Light and Shadow

    The most important photographic lesson I ever learned is that it’s all about the light. Reverse-engineering photos is no different. Analyzing the light in an image is the simplest and most effective way to learn how a photo was made.

    When you look at the image, ask yourself a few questions.

    • Which direction is the light coming from?
    • Is there more than one light source?
    • Is the light hard or soft?
    • Is there reflected light in the photo?
    • What about the color temperature? Is it warm or cool?

    Sometimes the answers will be obvious. Sometimes they’ll be impossible to answer. But the more often you ask them, the better you’ll get at answering them.

    If you’re looking at a landscape photo, you can almost always assume there’s only one light source – the sun. But that doesn’t mean you can’t deconstruct the light. The direction, hardness and temperature of the light will tell you a lot about the conditions the photo was taken in. Even though beautiful landscape lighting isn’t as technical as portrait or product lighting, you can still learn a lot from analyzing it.

    aerial how to reverse engineer photos

    The sun striking this landscape, along with the warm light on the right side of the image, clearly show where the light is coming from.

    If you’re reverse-engineering a portrait, it’s more likely to have more than one light source, as well as reflected light. When a photographer starts balancing multiple light sources, reverse-engineering a photo can become more difficult. But there are still ways to analyze the light if you know what to look for.

    Start by asking yourself, “Where are the shadows?” It may seem a little backwards, but one of the best ways to analyze light is to look at the darker parts of the image. Where is there no light? Do you see any hard shadows? Are there areas where you can see the light dropping off gradually? Studying the shadows will tell you about the direction of the light as well as how large it is relative to the subject.

    bear how to reverse engineer photos

    The illuminated fur around the outside of the bear show that this image was backlit. And its shadow on the ground shows the exact direction the light was coming from.

    Interpreting a photograph’s light becomes more difficult as the lighting gets more complex. As more light sources or reflectors are added, the shadows become less obvious. If the shadows are very light or non-existent, it likely means either the light is very diffuse and bouncing all over the place, or there are multiple light sources.

    If you’re lucky, you can sometimes see exactly what light source was used by looking for reflections. Look at the eyes, glasses, windows, water surfaces, and anything that reflects light. Sometimes you can see a perfect reflection of the light source, but at the very least you’ll be able to see its direction.

    cabin how to reverse engineer photos

    The soft light on the subject, combined with the reflection in her glasses, show the window as the light source. The very dark shadows tell us there are no other light sources.

    Gear and Settings

    In many cases, you don’t need to ask what equipment or settings were used to create a photo. With practice, you can learn to guesstimate the technical details such as focal length, aperture and shutter speed.

    Figuring out what focal length was used isn’t too difficult once you know how focal length affects a photo. As a general rule, the shorter the focal length (wider angle), the more distortion you’ll see and the more of a scene will fit in the frame. As the focal length gets longer (normal or telephoto), you’ll see more compression in the image and less of the scene in the frame.

    car how to reverse engineer photos

    Only a very wide-angle lens can capture everything in a scene like this from the ground to the sky. The lens distortion makes closer objects like this car look much bigger.

    While this won’t tell you the exact focal length used, it will give you a ballpark figure. With practice, you’ll be able to tell if a photo was taken with a wide-angle (<35mm), normal (35-85mm) or telephoto (>85mm) lens. The exact number doesn’t matter. What does matter is getting a rough idea where your focal length needs to be to create the same look.

    As with focal length, you can figure out roughly what aperture was used by understanding how it affects an image. As the lens aperture opens and closes, the depth-of-field (DOF) of the image changes. The wider the aperture (smaller f-number), the narrower the DOF.

    Again, the exact number doesn’t matter. What matters is understanding how aperture affects DOF and how to interpret the DOF of a photo. If the image is sharp and in focus from the foreground right through to the background, a smaller aperture (f/11-22) has probably been used. If everything but the subject is soft and out of focus, a larger aperture (f/1.4-5.6) has probably been used. If the DOF is somewhere in between, the aperture is probably around f5.6-11.

    Finally, these principles can also be applied to shutter speed. You probably know that shutter speed affects the way movement appears in an image. If objects you would expect to see moving are frozen still, you know a faster shutter speed was used. If there’s some motion blur in the image, you know the shutter speed was slower.

    bay how to reverse engineer photos

    You can see that a longer shutter speed has been used here to create the milky water effect, common with long-exposure photography.

    With a landscape photo, any time you see silky-smooth water or clouds common with long exposures you know it has a shutter speed of at least a few seconds. If you’re seeing some movement, it’s more likely to be less than one second. To freeze movement, you’d expect shutter speeds of at least 1/100th of a second.

    rocks how to reverse engineer photos

    Very short shutter speeds are required to capture moving water, as in this seascape photo.

    If the photo doesn’t include any moving objects, it’s much more difficult to figure out the shutter speed used. But if there’s no movement then shutter speed doesn’t really matter. It just needs to be fast enough to avoid any blur caused by camera movement to ensure a sharp image.

    Post-Processing

    Reverse-engineering the post-production that’s been applied to an image is the trickiest part. There’s almost no limit to what can be done in Photoshop today, which makes it difficult to figure out how a photo has been processed.

    You can get a rough idea of how much post-processing has been applied by looking at the photo. Does it look realistic? Do the colors and tones appear the way you’d expect in real life? Is the whole image well exposed from the darkest shadows to the brightest highlights? Are the light and shadows consistent across the image as you’d expect? Do the people look real, or impossibly perfect?

    Asking these kinds of questions will help you know what to look for. It’s easy to look at the image as a whole and get frustrated trying to analyze it. As you break it down and look at the individual details of a photo, it becomes easier to see the edits that have been applied.

    I’ll admit this isn’t exactly my strong suit, being colorblind. Picking out the color grading or effects that have been applied is never easy for me. But with practice I’ve become much better. And if I can do it, so can you.

    london how to reverse engineer photos

    You can see by looking at the church that extra warmth has been added in post-production to emphasize the warm late afternoon sun.

    Keep in mind that photographers and retouchers that are highly skilled in Photoshop, are very good at making their images look natural and unedited. Just because an image looks real doesn’t mean it is. A photo that’s been edited by a Photoshop ninja will be very difficult to reverse-engineer.

    Exif Data

    When all else fails, and you desperately want to know the settings used to take a photo, you may be able to access the image’s exif data. When a digital photograph is created, a bunch of data is embedded into the file. This includes focal length, shutter speed, aperture, camera model, and often a bunch of other information.

    A photo’s exif data is often stripped out by the photographer or the website it’s uploaded to. But if it hasn’t been stripped, you can easily access the data by either:

    • downloading the image and reading the data on your computer
    • using one of the many websites that will analyze a photo’s exif data for you.

    Some websites, such as exifdata.com, can even analyze a photo from the image’s URL.

    cuba how to reverse engineer photos

    The shadow of the tree clearly shows the direction of the sun, while the light reflecting off the concrete has filled in the shadows on the subject.

    Use Your New Powers Wisely

    Now that you know how to reverse-engineer a photo, go and practice. The more you do it, the easier it will become. As a photographer, being able to analyze and deconstruct a photo is an incredibly valuable skill. You can learn a tremendous amount from other photographers by doing this.

    But again, this isn’t a lesson in plagiarism. It’s about growing as a photographer by learning from other people’s photos, not recreating or cloning them.

    Now, go and find some photos you love and deconstruct them using your new-found powers.

    The post How to Reverse-Engineer a Photo appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Google Pixel 3 interview: technical deep dive with the camera team

    Recently, Science Editor Rishi Sanyal had the chance to sit down with two of Google’s most prominent imaging engineers and pick their brains about the software advances in the Pixel 3 and Pixel 3 XL. Isaac Reynolds is the Product Manager for Camera on Pixel and Marc Levoy is a Distinguished Engineer and is the Computational Photography Lead at Google. From computational Raw to learning-based auto white balance, they gave us an overview of some key new camera features and an explanation of the tech that makes them tick.

    Features covered in this video include the wide-angle selfie camera, Synthetic Fill Flash, Night Sight, Super Resolution Zoom, computational Raw, Top Shot and the method behind improving depth maps in Portrait Mode.

    These features are also covered in written form in a previously published article here.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 5 Tips for Taking Beautiful Photos of Nature

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

    Nature photography encompasses a wide range of photos taken outdoors, and conveys natural elements such as landscapes, wildlife, plants, trees and flowers.

    Whether you’re photographing sweeping natural scenes or close-ups of flowers, nature photography can be incredibly rewarding. Here are five tips for taking beautiful photographs of nature.

    Focus on the foreground

    Being out in nature can be incredibly rewarding. And not just for photography. The fresh air, the scenery, and the experience itself are all great incentives to head outdoors with your camera.

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

    When capturing beautiful scenes in nature, your picture can benefit from a bit of foreground interest. When you find a magical landscape to photograph, do it some justice by including something interesting in the foreground. I see many nature photos showing empty landscapes and skies without any consideration for the foreground.

    Don’t get me wrong. Nature images can look great with an atmospheric sky and inviting view. But adding a foreground will help make your image stand out. Throw in a rock or some flowers to your image, and the photo becomes much more striking. In this nature photo I included some dandelions in the foreground to accentuate the scene.

     

    Balance the photo

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

    Have you ever taken photos in nature and been disappointed with the images you produced? Returning from a photography outing with images that please you can be a challenge. So my next tip is to make your photos more balanced. Capture images of nature with careful consideration of what you include in the frame, and balance all of those elements.

    For example, you maybe able to bring certain parts of the landscape together to improve your image, such as trees and mist. When you’re shooting outdoors, what things can you identify that would make a visually pleasing image?

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

     

    Use the right gear

    Depending on the subject you’re photographing, it’s important to choose the right gear to get the best out of your images. Close-ups of insects or flowers would be best suited to a macro lens, which lets you get nearer to your subject. When faced with a wide vista, use a wide-angle lens to record a greater field of view.

    On the other hand, if you’re shooting wildlife, telephoto and zoom lenses are usually the best option as they can help you zoom in closer to your subject. These aren’t hard and fast rules, but rather suggestions on what generally works regarding lens choice.

    For example, if you’re photographing animals in a zoo, a wide-angle lens may be better than a telephoto lens if you want to capture more of the scene than just the animal, or if you’re positioned close to them.

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

    Capture different seasons

    The advantage of nature photography is it can be done at any time during the year and in different seasons. Summer is a great time to document lush landscapes and green foliage when everything is in full bloom, whereas spring and autumn can provide blooming flowers, cooler climates, atmospheric weather and the occasional mist. The added benefit of autumn is the change in colours of autumn foliage, giving you opportunities for vibrant photos.

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

    Winter is another wonderful time to capture the brilliance of nature. While it can be harsh and cold, it can also be strikingly beautiful. A sprinkling of snow can look good in any nature photo.

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

    Snow can add contrast in landscape vistas. For example, the snow in this scene helps the dark silhouetted tree stand out. I also find that snow-capped mountains are wonderful subjects to photograph during the winter season.

     

    Make the most of your natural surroundings

    You don’t have to live in a beautiful and remote location to find amazing subjects of nature. You’ll find an abundance of things waiting to be photographed in your local area. I took this photograph five minutes from my home. Go outside and explore your own surroundings, and take photos in the best natural places close to home.

    An example of taking beautiful photos of nature

     

    Conclusion

    Capturing photos of nature can be truly rewarding, and a great opportunity to be photographing outdoors.

    Whether you’re a landscape photographer or prefer to shoot plants or wildlife, try putting these tips into practice. And feel free share your images and any other comments or tips below.

    The post 5 Tips for Taking Beautiful Photos of Nature appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Nikon Coolpix P1000 First impressions review

    Four years ago, the typical superzoom ‘bridge’ camera had a zoom power of around 50x. Over the years that number has slowly risen, before leveling out at 65x. And then came the Nikon Coolpix P900, whose 83x, 24-2000mm equiv. lens suddenly took zoom ranges from ‘really long’ to ‘absurd’.

    Nikon’s new Coolpix P1000 has moved the zoom needle to ‘ludicrous,’ with an equivalent focal length of 24-3000mm. That’s right, 3000mm. This is a lens so long that we were able to fill the frame with a 1 meter (3.3 foot) tall monkey that’s 2.3 kilometers (1.4 miles) away.

    This does come at a cost, though. For one thing, the P1000 is huge and its lens is challenged by a slow maximum aperture (and thus diffraction) and image quality can be compromised by the same thermal and atmospheric issues that are typical of images taken at extreme focal lengths with any super telephoto lens.

    Besides the lens, the P1000 features a 16MP 1/2.3″ BSI-CMOS sensor, a fully articulating LCD and high-res EVF, Raw support and the ability to capture 4K video.

    Key features

    • 16MP, 1/2.3″ BSI-CMOS sensor
    • 24-3000mm equiv. F2.8-8 lens
    • ‘Dual Detect’ optical image stabilization
    • 3.2″, 921k-dot fully articulating LCD
    • 2.36M-dot OLED electronic viewfinder with eye sensor
    • Raw support
    • UHD 4K/30p video capture
    • Microphone input
    • Hot shoe
    • Wi-Fi + Bluetooth (SnapBridge)
    • 250 shots per charge (CIPA standard)

    The P1000 has a spec sheet almost as long as its lens. From Raw support to a high-res EVF, the camera has just about everything you’d want in a bridge camera, save for decent battery life and a touchscreen (a glaring omission). Image stabilization is a requirement on superzoom cameras, and Nikon’s ‘Dual Detect VR’ reduces shake by up to 5 stops, according to Nikon. Being 2018, it’s no surprise that Wi-FI and Bluetooth are also onboard.


    What’s new and how it compares

    The Coolpix P1000 really is all about that lens.

    Read more

    Shooting experience

    Find out what it’s like to use the P1000 at the Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle.

    Read more

    Sample gallery

    View a variety of sample images from the Coolpix P1000.

    Read more

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • We’re hiring! DPReview is looking to add three Software Development Engineers

    DPReview is hiring! We’re seeking three Software Development Engineers at a range of experience levels to join our Seattle-based team. In addition to a Senior SDE, we’re looking for two more engineers to join us and help build the future of DPReview.

    In these roles, you’ll build on the full power of AWS and use the latest web standards and technologies to create industry-leading experiences for millions of visitors. With quick release cycles, you will test your ideas in the real world and get instant feedback from a passionate audience. With full-stack ownership, you’ll have direct impact on the look, feel and infrastructure of one of the web’s top photography websites.

    Find more information and a link to apply below.

    Apply now:
    Senior Software Development Engineer – Team Lead

    Apply now:
    Software Development Engineer
    (1+ years of experience)

    Apply now:
    Software Developer
    (4+ years of experience)

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Foggy Morning on the South Platte River below Denver

    Recently, I photographed several water diversion dams on the Poudre and South Platte Rivers. The most rewarding experience was a foggy morning on the South Platte just downstream of the 104th Street (Elaine T. Valente Open Space). See pictures below. […]
    paddling with a camera

  • Five ways Google Pixel 3 pushes the boundaries of computational photography

    With the launch of the Google Pixel 3, smartphone cameras have taken yet another leap in capability. I had the opportunity to sit down with Isaac Reynolds, Product Manager for Camera on Pixel, and Marc Levoy, Distinguished Engineer and Computational Photography Lead at Google, to learn more about the technology behind the new camera in the Pixel 3.

    One of the first things you might notice about the Pixel 3 is the single rear camera. At a time when we’re seeing companies add dual, triple, even quad-camera setups, one main camera seems at first an odd choice.

    But after speaking to Marc and Isaac I think that the Pixel camera team is taking the correct approach – at least for now. Any technology that makes a single camera better will make multiple cameras in future models that much better, and we’ve seen in the past that a single camera approach can outperform a dual camera approach in Portrait Mode, particularly when the telephoto camera module has a smaller sensor and slower lens, or lacks reliable autofocus.

    Let’s take a closer look at some of the Pixel 3’s core technologies.

    1. Super Res Zoom

    Last year the Pixel 2 showed us what was possible with burst photography. HDR+ was its secret sauce, and it worked by constantly buffering nine frames in memory. When you press the shutter, the camera essentially goes back in time to those last nine frames1, breaks each of them up into thousands of ’tiles’, aligns them all, and then averages them.

    Breaking each image into small tiles allows for advanced alignment even when the photographer or subject introduces movement. Blurred elements in some shots can be discarded, or subjects that have moved from frame to frame can be realigned. Averaging simulates the effects of shooting with a larger sensor by ‘evening out’ noise. And going back in time to the last 9 frames captured right before you hit the shutter button means there’s zero shutter lag.

    Like the Pixel 2, HDR+ allows the Pixel 3 to render sharp, low noise images even in high contrast situations. Click image to view the level of detail at 100%. Photo: Google

    This year, the Pixel 3 pushes all this further. It uses HDR+ burst photography to buffer up to 15 images2, and then employs super-resolution techniques to increase the resolution of the image beyond what the sensor and lens combination would traditionally achieve3. Subtle shifts from handheld shake and optical image stabilization (OIS) allow scene detail to be localized with sub-pixel precision, since shifts are unlikely to be exact multiples of a pixel.

    In fact, I was told the shifts are carefully controlled by the optical image stabilization system. “We can demonstrate the way the optical image stabilization moves very slightly” remarked Marc Levoy. Precise sub-pixel shifts are not necessary at the sensor level though; instead, OIS is used to uniformly distribute a bunch of scene samples across a pixel, and then the images are aligned to sub-pixel precision in software.

    We get a red, green, and blue filter behind every pixel just because of the way we shake the lens, so there’s no more need to demosaic

    But Google – and Peyman Milanfar’s research team working on this particular feature – didn’t stop there. “We get a red, green, and blue filter behind every pixel just because of the way we shake the lens, so there’s no more need to demosaic” explains Marc. If you have enough samples, you can expect any scene element to have fallen on a red, green, and blue pixel. After alignment, then, you have R, G, and B information for any given scene element, which removes the need to demosaic. That itself leads to an increase in resolution (since you don’t have to interpolate spatial data from neighboring pixels), and a decrease in noise since the math required for demosaicing is itself a source of noise. The benefits are essentially similar to what you get when shooting pixel shift modes on dedicated cameras.

    Normal wide-angle (28mm equiv.) Super Res Zoom

    There’s a small catch to all this – at least for now. Super Res only activates at 1.2x zoom or more. Not in the default ‘zoomed out’ 28mm equivalent mode. As expected, the lower your level of zoom, the more impressed you’ll be with the resulting Super Res images, and naturally the resolving power of the lens will be a limitation. But the claim is that you can get “digital zoom roughly competitive with a 2x optical zoom” according to Isaac Reynolds, and it all happens right on the phone.

    The results I was shown at Google appeared to be more impressive than the example we were provided above, no doubt at least in part due to the extreme zoom of our example here. We’ll reserve judgement until we’ve had a chance to test the feature for ourselves.

    Would the Pixel 3 benefit from a second rear camera? For certain scenarios – still landscapes for example – probably. But having more cameras doesn’t always mean better capabilities. Quite often ‘second’ cameras have worse low light performance due to a smaller sensor and slower lens, as well as poor autofocus due to the lack of, or fewer, phase-detect pixels. One huge advantage of Pixel’s Portrait Mode is that its autofocus doesn’t differ from normal wide-angle shooting: dual pixel AF combined with HDR+ and pixel-binning yields incredible low light performance, even with fast moving erratic subjects.

    2. Computational Raw

    The Pixel 3 introduces ‘computational Raw’ capture in the default camera app. Isaac stressed that when Google decided to enable Raw in its Pixel cameras, they wanted to do it right, taking advantage of the phone’s computational power.

    Our Raw file is the result of aligning and merging multiple frames, which makes it look more like the result of a DSLR

    “There’s one key difference relative to the rest of the industry. Our DNG is the result of aligning and merging [up to 15] multiple frames… which makes it look more like the result of a DSLR” explains Marc. There’s no exaggeration here: we know very well that image quality tends to scale with sensor size thanks to a greater amount of total light collected per exposure, which reduces the impact of the most dominant source of noise in images: photon shot, or statistical, noise.

    The Pixel cameras can effectively make up for their small sensor sizes by capturing more total light through multiple exposures, while aligning moving objects from frame to frame so they can still be averaged to decrease noise. That means better low light performance and higher dynamic range than what you’d expect from such a small sensor.

    Shooting Raw allows you to take advantage of that extra range: by pulling back blown highlights and raising shadows otherwise clipped to black in the JPEG, and with full freedom over white balance in post thanks to the fact that there’s no scaling of the color channels before the Raw file is written.

    Pixel 3 introduces in-camera computational Raw capture.

    Such ‘merged’ Raw files represent a major threat to traditional cameras. The math alone suggests that, solely based on sensor size, 15 averaged frames from the Pixel 3 sensor should compete with APS-C sized sensors in terms of noise levels. There are more factors at play, including fill factor, quantum efficiency and microlens design, but needless to say we’re very excited to get the Pixel 3 into our studio scene and compare it with dedicated cameras in Raw mode, where the effects of the JPEG engine can be decoupled from raw performance.

    While solutions do exist for combining multiple Raws from traditional cameras with alignment into a single output DNG, having an integrated solution in a smartphone that takes advantage of Google’s frankly class-leading tile-based align and merge – with no ghosting artifacts even with moving objects in the frame – is incredibly exciting. This feature should prove highly beneficial to enthusiast photographers. And what’s more – Raws are automatically uploaded to Google Photos, so you don’t have to worry about transferring them as you do with traditional cameras.

    3. Synthetic Fill Flash

    ‘Synthetic Fill Flash’ adds a glow to human subjects, as if a reflector were held out in front of them. Photo: Google

    Often a photographer will use a reflector to light the faces of backlit subjects. Pixel 3 does this computationally. The same machine-learning based segmentation algorithm that the Pixel camera uses in Portrait Mode is used to identify human subjects and add a warm glow to them.

    If you’ve used the front facing camera on the Pixel 2 for Portrait Mode selfies, you’ve probably noticed how well it detects and masks human subjects using only segmentation. By using that same segmentation method for synthetic fill flash, the Pixel 3 is able to relight human subjects very effectively, with believable results that don’t confuse and relight other objects in the frame.

    Interestingly, the same segmentation methods used to identify human subjects are also used for front-facing video image stabilization, which is great news for vloggers. If you’re vlogging, you typically want yourself, not the background, to be stabilized. That’s impossible with typical gyro-based optical image stabilization. The Pixel 3 analyzes each frame of the video feed and uses digital stabilization to steady you in the frame. There’s a small crop penalty to enabling this mode, but it allows for very steady video of the person holding the camera.

    4. Learning-based Portrait Mode

    The Pixel 2 had one of the best Portrait Modes we’ve tested despite having only one lens. This was due to its clever use of split pixels to sample a stereo pair of images behind the lens, combined with machine-learning based segmentation to understand human vs. non-human objects in the scene (for an in-depth explanation, watch my video here). Furthermore, dual pixel AF meant robust performance of even moving subjects in low light – great for constantly moving toddlers. The Pixel 3 brings some significant improvements despite lacking a second lens.

    According to computational lead Marc Levoy, “Where we used to compute stereo from the dual pixels, we now use a learning-based pipeline. It still utilizes the dual pixels, but it’s not a conventional algorithm, it’s learning based”. What this means is improved results: more uniformly defocused backgrounds and fewer depth map errors. Have a look at the improved results with complex objects, where many approaches are unable to reliably blur backgrounds ‘seen through’ holes in foreground objects:

    Learned result. Background objects, especially those seen through the toy, are consistently blurred. Objects around the peripheries of the image are also more consistently blurred. Learned depth map. Note how objects in the background (blue) aren’t confused as being closer to the foreground (yellow) as they are in the heat map below.
    Stereo-only result. Background objects, especially those seen through the toy, aren’t consistently blurred. Stereo-only based depth map from dual pixels. Note how some elements in the background appear to be closer to the foreground than they really are.

    Interestingly, this learning-based approach also yields better results with mid-distance shots where a person is further away. Typically, the further away your subject is, the less difference in stereo disparity between your subject and background, making accurate depth maps difficult to compute given the small 1mm baseline of the split pixels. Take a look at the Portrait Mode comparison below, with the new algorithm on the left vs. the old on the right.

    Learned result. The background is uniformly defocused, and the ground shows a smooth, gradual blur. Stereo-only result. Note the sharp railing in the background, and the harsh transition from in-focus to out-of-focus in the ground.

    5. Night Sight

    Rather than simply rely on long exposures for low light photography, ‘Night Sight’ utilizes HDR+ burst mode photography to take usable photos in very dark situations. Previously, the Pixel 2 would never drop below 1/15s shutter speed, simply because it needed faster shutter speeds to maintain that 9-frame buffer with zero shutter lag. That does mean that even the Pixel 2 could, in very low light, effectively sample 0.6 seconds (9 x 1/15s), but sometimes that’s not even enough to get a usable photo in extremely dark situations.

    The camera will merge up to 15 frames… to get you an image equivalent to a 5 second exposure

    The Pixel 3 now has a ‘Night Sight’ mode which sacrifices the zero shutter lag and expects you to hold the camera steady after you’ve pressed the shutter button. When you do so, the camera will merge up to 15 frames, each with shutter speeds as low as, say, 1/3s, to get you an image equivalent to a 5 second exposure. But without the motion blur that would inevitably result from such a long exposure.

    Put simply: even though there might be subject or handheld movement over the entire 5s span of the 15 frame burst, many of the the 1/3s ‘snapshots’ of that burst are likely to still be sharp, albeit possibly displaced relative to one another. The tile-based alignment of Google’s ‘robust merge’ technology, however, can handle inter-frame movement by aligning objects that have moved and discarding tiles of any frame that have too much motion blur.

    Have a look at the results below, which also shows you the benefit of the wider-angle, second front-facing ‘groupie’ camera:

    Normal front-camera ‘selfie’ Night Sight ‘groupie’ with wide-angle front-facing lens

    Furthermore, Night Sight mode takes a machine-learning based approach to auto white balance. It’s often very difficult to determine the dominant light source in such dark environments, so Google has opted to use learning-based AWB to yield natural looking images.

    Final thoughts: simpler photography

    The philosophy behind the Pixel camera – and for that matter the philosophy behind many smartphone cameras today – is one-button photography. A seamless experience without the need to activate various modes or features.

    This is possible thanks to the computational approaches these devices embrace. The Pixel camera and software are designed to give you pleasing results without requiring you to think much about camera settings. Synthetic fill flash activates automatically with backlit human subjects, and Super Resolution automatically kicks in as you zoom.

    At their best, these technologies allows you to focus on the moment

    Motion photos turns on automatically when the camera detects interesting activity, and Top Shot now uses AI to automatically suggest the best photo of the bunch, even if it’s a moment that occurred before you pressed the shutter button. Autofocus typically focuses on human subjects very reliably, but when you need to specify your subject, just tap on it and ‘Motion Autofocus’ will continue to track and focus on it very reliably. Perfect for your toddler or pet.

    At their best, these technologies allow you to focus on the moment, perhaps even enjoy it, and sometimes even help you to capture memories you might have otherwise missed.

    We’ll be putting the Pixel 3 through its paces soon, so stay tuned. In the meantime, let us know in the comments below what your favorite features are, and what you’d like to see tested.


    1In good light, these last 9 frames typically span the last 150ms before you pressed the shutter button. In very low light, it can span up to the last 0.6s.

    2We were only told ‘say, maybe 15 images’ in conversation about the number of images in the buffer for Super Res Zoom and Night Sight. It may be more, it could be less, but we were at least told that it is more than 9 frames. One thing to keep in mind is that even if you have a 15-frame buffer, not all frames are guaranteed to be usable. For example, if in Night Sight one or more of these frames have too much subject motion blur, they’re discarded.

    3You can achieve a similar super-resolution effect manually with traditional cameras, and we describe the process here.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Preserving Your Digital Memories

    Preserving your digital memories

    Photography is now more accessible than ever. You can document your life on the go with just a tap on a smartphone screen or a quick snap on a digital camera.

    Whether it’s treasured photos of your children, your latest holiday snaps or pictures from a wedding, the advent of smartphone photography has made it incredibly easy to capture the moments that matter to you.

    But have you ever wondered what would happen to your precious photos if the technology failed or there was a data loss? It’s no longer the norm to print photos. More and more of our photos are stored only digitally on phones and computers. And while our technology usually works fine, one tech catastrophe can wipe out your entire photo collection if you haven’t taken the right precautions.

    Mark Lord Photography has put together the following series of infographics that look the changing nature of photography, along with some helpful tips on how to make sure your photos are safe for years to come. Let’s take a look.

    We Are Taking More Photos than Ever Before

    We're taking more photos than ever before

    The rise of smartphones has contributed to an exponential growth in the number of photos being taken. In 1990, around 57 billion photos were taken. While this number rose significantly to 86 billion in 2000, growth skyrocketed in the new millenium when smartphones and affordable digital cameras were introduced to the market.

    In 2010, 380 billion photos were snapped. And by 2017 this number rose to 1.2 trillion – a 1295% percent increase in just seven years. Amazingly, we now take more photos in just two minutes than were taken throughout the entirety of the 1800s, when photography first emerged.

    Technology Has Transformed Photography

    The way we take photos has changed drastically

    Cameras were once an expensive luxury, but the widespread availability of advanced smartphones with increasingly powerful cameras has changed that. It’s incredibly easy to take out your phone and get a quick snap. So it’s no surprise that 85% of all photos are now taken on phones, with more traditional digital cameras only being used 10% of the time.

    This may be part of the problem. You usually need to develop the photos from a camera, or at least upload them to your computer and sort them. But with phones it’s tempting to just leave your photos there, collecting virtual dust.

    But Photography Hasn’t Changed Completely

    Everyone is a little more casual with photos today. You can take photos whenever you like, so people are naturally taking more photos than ever before.

    But it doesn’t mean we’ve stopped taking photos of things we care about. In 1960, 55% of all photos taken were of babies. And today 67% of parents still photograph their children weekly.

    Technology hasn’t completely changed what we want to photograph. Most photographs taken are still of families, friends, and special events. Despite the fact everyone’s supposedly gone selfie mad, only 32% of participants in a survey had taken one in the past two months, whereas 77% had taken pictures of friends and family.

    Photo Storage in the Digital Age

    It's a digital age

    With digital storage getting cheaper and better all the time, people have ditched printing photos in favor of storing them digitally – on computers and phones, and in the cloud. In a recent survey, 69% of participants said they’d #most likely keep their pictures stored on phones and computers. This is compared to a measly 7% who reported that what they’d most likely do is print them off, and just 6% who said they regularly posted photos on social media.

    It seems this will continue to be the case. Older people tend to have more framed photos and albums around the home, while the number falls off for the younger generation. People over 55 have on average eight photo albums and 11 framed photos, whereas those aged 24-34 have just four albums and seven framed photos. This generational divide will probably become more pronounced as time goes on.

    Are Your Memories Safe?

    Print photos are on the decrease

    Printing photos is clearly on the decrease. In an ideal world, the lack of physical copies wouldn’t be an issue. But technology isn’t immune to failure or human error. Nearly a third of people have already lost important videos and photos after losing a smartphone, and 113 phones are lost or stolen every minute around the world. Data loss poses a constant threat to your photo collections, which is why it’s vital to back them up – ideally in multiple places.

     

    Tips on Preserving Your Memories

    Make sure your important memories will last

    Wondering what you can do to ensure your photos are preserved for posterity? Here are some top tips for keeping photos safe long beyond the life of your smartphone.

    • Have a professional photoshoot: If you’re tired of taking your own photos, consider having some professional photos taken. You’ll get some lovely photos that you can treasure for a lifetime.
    • Go old school: Print might not be as popular as it once was. But printing your most important photos is a good way to ensure you have got a physical backup if everything goes wrong with your data situation.
    • Keep multiple backups: For the photos you care about the most, keep multiple backups – one on your phone, one in the cloud, and a physical print. This gives you several safeguards against catastrophic data loss.
    • Make sure someone in your family knows how to access important photos: Sixteen percent of people believe that in 50 years their children and grandchildren won’t be able to access photos on computers, phones and social media. Giving your family instructions on how to find sentimental photos will save you and them a lot of stress.

    We hope you enjoyed this series of infographics. Feel free to leave a comment below, or share this post with your friends.

    The post Preserving Your Digital Memories appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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