RSS
 

How to Use Lightroom Star Ratings to Improve Your Editing Workflow

12 Mar

The post How to Use Lightroom Star Ratings to Improve Your Editing Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ian Johnson.

Editing photos is time-consuming! The rule of thumb that it takes an hour of editing for every hour of shooting is not an exaggeration. You may find that sorting and grading your photos right after a shoot is one of the most tedious parts of your entire workflow – I know I do. Whether you are coming in from a long weekend of shooting wildlife or a busy day shooting a wedding, it is no small task to determine which photos to keep, edit, and store for later from a batch of a 1000 or more. Adobe Lightroom has several tools allowing you to sort, grade, and attribute your work to help you efficiently edit and store a photo. I will walk you through how I use the star-rating system to sort images for my editing workflow and long term archival storage.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

My basic workflow is to import my images, use stars to curate the collection, edit the collection based on their ratings, keyword the collection, and then archive it.

Hot key stars

If you are thinking of stars as those little icons you click under an image to set the rating, let me change your world! Each star rating of 1-5 you can assign directly from your keypad! These “hot keys” are what makes the star rating system so convenient.

Your first assignment:

Open up Lightroom and select an image in your catalog. Now hit the “1” key on your keyboard. Lightroom tells you the image has now been assigned a rating of 1. With values ranging from 1-5, you can assign each value to an image for different things. Below, I’ll provide examples of how you may use these different values.

As a side note, Lightroom has hotkeys for everything. Learning them speeds up your workflow significantly; no matter which set of tools you are using to develop or print.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

Lightroom has a star rating system which can be accessed under the thumbnail of each image in Grid View (G hotkey) in your Lightrom Library. Each image can be assigned a star rating of 1-5 by simply pressing the corresponding number on your keyboard. Using hotkeys will help improve your speed and make editing large photo shoots easier and faster!

Sorting files for deletion and advancing images to editing

Whether you are shooting wildlife, weddings, sports, or portraits the most important question you have after your import is: what photos do I keep? When shooting wildlife, you may have dozens of the same subject in slightly different settings or poses. At a wedding, you have many of the dance, but only a select few are going to make the cut to show your client, friends, or family.

You can use the star rating system to assign images for deletion. Why I prefer this over the “rejection” flag system is you can simultaneously start choosing what files to edit and which to delete using the range of values from 1-5 rather than the binary “yes” and “no” of the flag system.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

There’s a lot going on during a wedding. When the day is all said and done you need to import the photos and then choose which you’ll keep, which you’ll develop, and which you’ll delete. Lightroom Stars can help you there.

Using Lightroom Stars to sort your work is easy and efficient.

Here’s a hypothetical situation: you import your photos and determine that a value of “0” (i.e., no rating) as photos to delete. You then decide that images assigned “1” are saved, but are a low priority for editing – perhaps these are b-roll images for applying general presets. You determine images set to “2” are developed immediately and images set to “4” are your best images. This multiple tier system ensures you only have to go through the images once and ideally not more than twice. That’s a huge time saver when dealing with large quantities of images!

I would recommend you avoid using “5” in your workflow. Reserve this for only your very highest quality images (more on that in the “Archiving content/ creating smart collections” section below.)

Once you’ve assigned ratings to all of the images, you can filter the image using the “attributes” filter while in grid view. Filter for all images = 0 stars to delete the images you no longer want and filter all images = 2 to start developing your shots.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

Once you’ve chosen which photos to keep (rating 4) you can filter for them using the attributes filter in the Lightroom Library. Simply click “Attribute” and then set the rating to the image set you’d like to view.

Separating image content for keywording

If you are a wildlife photographer, and in particular if you are a bird photographer, it is very typical to change subjects (species) throughout the day. This may occur as much as every other shot. Once you’ve imported those images, it can be daunting to go about keywording your work so you can find them later. The star rating system can help you sort through them quickly!

Assign each star to a species and use your hotkeys to assign the star rating to that species. Once you’ve finished coding the species with stars, filter them using the attributes filter in Grid View and complete your keywording. You can then remove the star rating by highlighting the images and pressing the “0” key. There are many photography scenarios where you can apply this!

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

The diversity of birds creates a diversity of shots. It is critical to keyword your collection if you ever hope to find the images again. I used the star ratings assigned to different species to help sort them and keyword them.

 

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

Once a star rating has been set for a species filter for it to see all images with that rating. In this case, Marbled Godwit were given a temporary rating of 4, keyworded, and then the stars were reset for the image.

Archiving Content / Creating Smart Collections

Undoubtedly, you will create images you are proud of and want to save for future reference, printing, or portfolio work. As I eluded to above, these images should be assigned a value of 5 in your collection. Only a small percentage of your shots should achieve a rating of 5.

You can compile a portfolio of your best shots by establishing a smart collection in Lightroom. The smart collection automatically compiles all images in your catalog with a given attribute.

To create a smart collection right click on “Smart Collections” in Lightroom. Select create a new smart collection and then add the criteria for your collection. You can create a collection set from any attribute you can assign in Lightroom (e.g., stars, flags, keywords, etc.). As you go through the years, your 5-star collection set will continue to grow and document your progress and story.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

You can create a smart collection to house your best work for printing or display by giving only your best images a rating of 5.

 

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

To create a smart collection you need to right click on Smart Collections and select create a new smart collection. Assign the attribute to the collection that you’d like it to contain. Simple as that!

That is it! I hope you see the value in using Lightroom’s star rating system in your workflow.

I’ll end by saying these steps are what work for me, but what works for you? Leave your thoughts on workflows in the comments below so we can learn together.

As I always say, “pixels are cheap!”. Be sure to make lots of them and then sort through them using Lightroom Stars.

The post How to Use Lightroom Star Ratings to Improve Your Editing Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ian Johnson.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Use Lightroom Star Ratings to Improve Your Editing Workflow

Posted in Photography

 

Video: Watch this cannon shoot (and destroy) a Canon at 264mph in a tornado projectile test

12 Mar

A compact camera reached speeds of 264 miles per hour during a test to demonstrate the dangers presented by normal domestic objects flying around during tornado. And no, it didn’t survive.

The test was carried out by storm-footage stock library owner Martin Lisius with the help of a pneumatic cannon housed at the National Wind Institute’s Debris Impact Facility in Texas Tech University. The unit usually studies what happens when large lumps of wood caught in storm winds strike building materials, but for this test Lisius wanted to show what happens when smaller more common objects get picked up and thrown around.

A Canon Sureshot 60 Zoom, known as the Autoboy Juno in Japan, was loaded into the cannon and when fired reached speeds of 264mph before meeting a messy end against a concrete wall. According to Lisius, the shape and relative density of the film camera helped it travel much faster than the researchers expected.

The twenty four year-old camera, which could only manage 1fps in its highest drive setting, was filmed at 240fps as it met the wall. Even with that frame rate though it is hard to see exactly what happened on impact. I’m certain the research was useful for something, but even if it wasn’t it makes interesting viewing. To see other videos of things hitting other things at high speed see the National Wind Institute’s Debris Impact web pages.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Video: Watch this cannon shoot (and destroy) a Canon at 264mph in a tornado projectile test

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Fujifilm GF 100-200mm F5.6 sample gallery

12 Mar

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_2750445428″,”galleryId”:”2750445428″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

The Fujifilm GF 100-200mm F5.6 covers a 79-158mm equivalent range when attached to a GFX medium-format camera. It’s the longest zoom option available for the GF system, counting both current lenses and those on the roadmap. Coupled with a GFX camera it’s not exactly the most portable option, but we endeavored to bring it along on some snowy walks and trips to the waterfront anyhow.

See our Fujifilm GF 100-200mm F5.6
sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Fujifilm GF 100-200mm F5.6 sample gallery

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Ricoh GR III sample gallery updated

12 Mar

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_9930153897″,”galleryId”:”9930153897″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

We spent a little more time with the Ricoh GR III out and about in Yokohama, updating our initial sample gallery to a total of over 50 images. Take a look at some additional out-of-camera JPEGs and converted Raw files from the GR line’s much-awaited successor.

See our Ricoh GR III sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Ricoh GR III sample gallery updated

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Qualcomm’s Snapdragon chipsets can now handle a 192MP image sensor

12 Mar

Mobile cameras are getting more powerful all the time but the technical advancements are not only down to sensor manufacturers and camera module designers. Mobile chipsets also have to support the new imaging components and be able to process the ever increasing amounts of captured image data.

As spotted in the XDA Developers forum, chipset maker Qualcomm has now updated the specs for a range of its Snapdragon chipsets and it looks like the Snapdragon 670, 675, 710, 845 and 855 models now all support a pretty outrageous camera resolution of 192MP.

There are some limitations, however. In order to process such a large image the camera cannot use any multi-frame processing, for example for HDR or noise reduction, or a zero-shutter-lag. The 192MP limit is also only valid for single-camera setups and not for multi-camera devices. Not even a front-camera would be supported.

Given there are currently no mobile image sensor available that come even close to such a high pixel count, these are mostly theoretical considerations of course. Still, it’s good to see Qualcomm is future-proofing its chipsets and making the spec information readily available to developers and other interested parties.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Qualcomm’s Snapdragon chipsets can now handle a 192MP image sensor

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Roger Cicala tests new Sony FE 135mm F1.8 GM, confirms ‘insanely good’ MTF results

12 Mar

Roger Cicala is a hard man to impress. His team tests a lot of lenses, but the new Sony FE 135mm F1.8 GM is a cut above the rest. Literally, all the rest. Roger’s verdict? ‘This is the sharpest lens we’ve tested. Period’.

We already knew that the FE 135mm F1.8 GM was good, but the MTF results are quite spectacular. In Roger’s words, ‘curves higher than anything I’d ever seen in a normal-range lens’. Compare the Sony’s performance at F1.8 to the Zeiss Batis 135mm F2.8, below. Even if you’re not familiar with MTF curves (in brief – the center of this graph shows resolution at the center of an image, the extreme right and extreme left represent corner sharpness, and higher lines are better), it’s clear that the Sony outperforms the Zeiss in the center and compares well towards the edges, even wide open.

And this isn’t just a standout outlier sample hand-picked by Sony to give the best results – these graphs are created from data averaged from ten copies of the lens.

The 135mm F1.8 was so sharp, in fact, that just for fun Roger ran tests at 100 lp/mm as well as the usual 50 lp/mm, which – again – showed that Sony’s latest lens should perform brilliantly for several generations of even higher-resolution full-frame cameras to come.

Read Roger’s full article on the Lensrentals blog

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_3945628308″,”galleryId”:”3945628308″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });
Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Roger Cicala tests new Sony FE 135mm F1.8 GM, confirms ‘insanely good’ MTF results

Posted in Uncategorized

 

How to Photograph Frozen Bubbles in the Cold

12 Mar

The post How to Photograph Frozen Bubbles in the Cold appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.

Bubbles in the Air

I live somewhere that gets pretty cold in the winter, and occasionally it gets super-cold. Alright, discussing cold is always a relative measure depending upon where you live, but I may be understating a bit to say it gets pretty cold, when actually, it gets freezing by pretty much anyone’s measure. Fortunately for my family and me, it only gets challenging for about a week or two in the depths of winter.

In the hardest times, temperatures reach around -30C (-22F). At these temperatures, there is very little moisture in the air, and it is just plain cold. Extra layers only help a little bit. Frostbite is a very significant risk for any exposed skin, particularly if there is any wind (times to freeze exposed skin are less than a couple of minutes).  Many people here wear the temperatures they endure almost as a badge of honor.

So cold we can freeze bubbles before they pop

It gets really cold here

At these temperatures, everything freezes here – even things you probably didn’t think could freeze. The large river that goes through my city freezes for the entire winter. Starting sometime in November until breakup in April, eyelashes and beards freeze, camera lenses freeze (aperture blades and shutters won’t move) and cars require block heaters to keep the oil in the crankcase warm enough so that you can start the engines.

There are colder places on earth, but not that many.  During our recent cold snap from the polar vortex (very cool name but I’m not sure its a real thing), people compared it to temperatures in Antarctica (it was slightly colder here than there).

It gets pretty cold here

So what, who cares?

Realistically, apart from complaining about the weather (a common national pastime for Canadians… look it up) you don’t want to spend much time outside at these freezing temperatures. So why tell you about crazy frigid temperatures? Because there is something that you can do at these temperatures that you can’t really do if it isn’t cold enough. You can blow bubbles and take pictures of them freezing before your eyes. The effect is remarkable, and it happens very fast. Frozen bubbles! If you can blow bubbles, you can watch them freeze before your eyes.

The process is pretty quick. The ideal temperature to do this is when temperatures dip below about -20C or -4F. At temperatures higher than that, the bubbles don’t freeze the same way. Blowing bubbles at these subzero temperatures can be challenging, but if you take the time, you can get some amazing results.

Bubbles on a bubble wand

The science of bubbles

Bubbles are common phenomena that kids love playing with. They seem very simple, but the science behind them is quite complicated. Bubbles are made up of two soap films – inside layer and outside layer – holding and trapping a layer of water between them to form the bubble. When you blow the bubbles through a wand or a straw, the air you introduce expands the inner film layer to create the bubble. As the water evaporates, the bubble eventually bursts. The bubbles stay together based upon the surface tension (the tendency to stick together) of the soap film, but the film is, in general, very thin.

In warm weather, soap and water are all you require for making lots of bubbles, but at colder temperatures, the soap film needs to be stronger. By adding glycerine or corn syrup, you make the bubbles stronger. By adding a small number of sugar crystals, the bubbles will show crystal patterns in the bubble walls as they freeze. The main ingredients you need access to are water, dish soap, glycerine, and some sugar.

Ingredients to make frozen bubble images

The 3 W’s and 1 H

In preparation for shooting bubbles, the key questions before you start are WHERE, WHAT, HOW and WHEN. Because the temperatures are so cold, you need to plan everything in advance because you can’t spend that much time in these temperatures trying to guess what you are going to do next. You need to pick a spot to set your bubble down (this is not a floating bubble exercise). This is the WHERE. Preferably it is someplace convenient, at a reasonable height and near a source of warmth (like somewhere near a door or running car to get you inside).

You then need to decide on the WHAT, is there a particular look you are going for? Is there an effect you are trying to achieve? (Night shot? Candles?)

Next, you need to think about HOW. How are you going to compose the shot? How are you going to blow the bubbles? What is the background like (this is a key aspect)? How are you going to manage both focusing, bubble making and shot taking? Are you going to need a tripod?

Finally, the WHEN is the last part to consider. You need to pick a time of day on a day that is cold enough to create the effect, that has great light and when there is little to no wind (this disrupts the bubbles). Wind will quickly destroy any efforts to blow bubbles in the cold.

Bubble frozen solid with corn syrup

The WHERE

So let’s consider the WHERE.

It will be cold, so you will need to scout a location that is easy to get to, at a reasonable height to photograph preferably from a tripod (to free up your hands) and is relatively near warmth.

These are normally close-up images, so it presents some similar challenges as macro photography. You really can be just about anywhere as long as you don’t have distracting shapes, colors or patterns in the background. Ideally, if you choose a reasonable aperture, the bokeh will have the background blurred but significant shapes, colors or patterns will be apparent.

I used the snowy railing on my back deck as a place I would set up for my shots because it was close to my house, at waist height and I can control the background.

Frozen bubble with a dark background

The WHAT

Regular bubbles don’t really work in super cold temperatures. The bubble mixtures that work in the summer struggle in super-cold temperatures and tend to just burst before freezing. In cold temperatures, bubbles can be more difficult to generate. Even if you do, they often just fall to the ground.

If you search the internet, you will get lots of clear advice but little in the way of explanation. I found and tried multiple recipes for bubbles and discovered that some of the recipes don’t work all that great. All generate bubbles, but some work better than others.

The general objective is to get bubbles with thicker films that tend to stay together. Also, by adding some sugar, you can get cool crystalline patterns as the bubbles freeze.

The recipe I settled on (as it worked fairly reliably) was 1 cup of water, 4 tablespoons of dish soap (not dishwasher soap), 3 tablespoons of glycerine and 2 tablespoons of sugar. I saw many recipes that used corn syrup, but they didn’t seem to work as well as the glycerine and made for sticky bubbles. However, corn syrup does work – just not as well. The glycerine strengthens the bubble, and the sugar helps with the crystalline patterns in the freezing bubbles.

To blow the bubbles, you will need a straw and some patience. Preferably you use a reusable straw (which I have a bunch of).

Regular Bubble solutions don’t really work for freezing bubbles

The HOW

Once you have figured out your location, you need to compose your shot. Plan on a bubble being about 3 inches in diameter (could be bigger but probably won’t be smaller). Set your camera on a tripod, pick the spot where you are placing the bubble and set your focus manually.

You can set the bubble on snow, or if you use the bottom of a cup or glass, a small amount of solution on the base helps place the bubble easier and without it popping. It is also useful to have your camera set up to take multiple shots (slow burst) without recomposing or refocusing.

Bubble with focus on the back wall rather than front wall

Once set, use a straw in the solution and slowly blow the bubbles. You will need to keep the bubble on the straw, place the bubble and slowly extract the straw from the top of the bubble. This technique worked best for me. Remember it is cold, and blowing bubbles is not that easy when it very cold.

The WHEN

Okay, you are all set…but is it cold enough? You need -20C (-4F) or the bubbles don’t freeze properly. Ideally, you want it sunny as the light hitting the bubbles really makes them pop. The good news is that generally when it is really cold, there is so little moisture in the air that it is often sunny.

Finally, you want there to be as little wind as possible. The wind will cause the bubbles to move unpredictably and cause them to burst. Try to find a location sheltered from the wind.

Using a candle to illuminate a bubble at night

The Shoot

Once all the preparation is complete, and you are ready to go, you may realize that it is difficult to blow bubbles, wear gloves, stay warm and shoot at the same time. Once the bubbles start to freeze, they freeze fast. You will want to place the bubble and then watch for it to begin to freeze and then take multiple images in a short burst.

If you can have someone blow bubbles for you, this helps because getting the bubbles to form, place them and then hope they stay together long enough for the images to turn out can be a bit of a challenge. It is a little finicky to get the bubbles to stay where you want them but if all the stars align the results are great and fun.

Mostly frozen bubble

The Results

If you get everything working, you can get pretty amazing results.  Whether for still images or video, bubbles freezing are really interesting to see and photograph. If you plan out the images, you can get great results.

Not quite frozen bubble

 

The post How to Photograph Frozen Bubbles in the Cold appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Photograph Frozen Bubbles in the Cold

Posted in Photography

 

Meyer Optik Görlitz confirms rumor that Nocturnus was a rebranded Chinese lens

12 Mar

Meyer Optik Görlitz, the German brand that offered lenses through Kickstarter before its parent company filed for insolvency last year, has confirmed speculation that the Nocturnus lenses were slightly modified versions of a Chinese lens, and the Somnium lenses were modified versions of a Russian lens.

The brand’s new owner OPC Optics revealed its finding in a press release, stating that it had spent time analyzing the Meyer Optik products and planning how it would move forward with the brand. According to OPC Optics Managing Director Timo Heinze, ‘It’s fair to say that the previous organization and processes shocked us on occasions.’

Among other things, the company said it discovered that past speculation about the Somnium and Nocturnus lenses proved true, and as such it will discontinue both ranges ‘for the time being.’ The company didn’t say which lenses were used, but online speculation over the years had pegged the $ 3,000 Nocturnus as a modified $ 849 Mitakon Zhongyi Speedmaster 50mm F0.95 lens.

Heinze explained, ‘That is an absolute no go. As a German manufacturer using the ‘Made in Germany’ quality seal, this is a shameful indictment. These lenses may be perfectly good in their own right, but their production methods and marketing goes against all our principles.’

Heinze acknowledged that Meyer Optik may relaunch lenses ‘with similar characteristics’ under its ownership in the future, but they would not be rebranded, modified Russian and Chinese lenses. The potential future lenses ‘would, of course, be our own designs
and produced by us, in order to genuinely earn the ‘Made in Germany’ label,’ according to Heinze.

Via: PetaPixel

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Meyer Optik Görlitz confirms rumor that Nocturnus was a rebranded Chinese lens

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Essential Photography Equipment For Beginners

11 Mar

Every photographer is unique in their own photography style and gear preference. To get you started on your photography journey, this article will help you choose the very essential photography equipment for beginners. You will also find specific brands and explanations for why they were chosen. This photography basics bundle has everything you need to get started! I will start Continue Reading

The post Essential Photography Equipment For Beginners appeared first on Photodoto.


Photodoto

 
Comments Off on Essential Photography Equipment For Beginners

Posted in Photography

 

10 Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid

11 Mar

The post 10 Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

You can capture incredible photos.

But there are a few common photography mistakes (often made by beginners).

1 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

And these mistakes might be holding you back.

Fortunately, they’re easy to fix.

And guess what?

Once you’ve fixed these mistakes, your photography will be better than ever.

2 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

So read on to discover the 10 common photography mistakes every beginner should avoid.

Starting with:

1. You’re not resetting your camera dials at the end of each shoot

Tell me if this sounds familiar:

You’re doing an end-of-day photo shoot.

You crank your ISO up to 1600 (to deal with the low light).

Your shoot ends. You go to put away your camera.

And…

…In all the excitement, you forget to drop your ISO back to 100.

This is such an easy mistake to make. Especially since it’s something you must remember at the end of each photo shoot –when you’re exhausted.

3 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

But…

It’s something you can’t forget.

Why?

If you do, you’re jeopardizing your next photo shoot.

Because then you’re bound to shoot with your 1600 ISO.

And then you’ll get frustratingly grainy shots.

Which is exactly what you don’t want.

4 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

So here’s what you do:

At the end of each shoot, shift all settings back to a standard value. The particular number depends on your camera and your style of photography. But make sure you choose a median value – one that will serve you in a variety of situations.

5 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Here’s what I do:

I dial my ISO down to 100.

I dial the aperture to f/5.6.

I dial the shutter speed to 1/500.

Doing this has saved me countless times.

It’ll save you, too.

2. You’re shooting JPEG photos (instead of RAW)

This mistake is a frustrating one.

Because there’s literally nothing you can do to fix it – after the fact.

6 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Here’s the mistake:

You’re shooting JPEGs.

But you should be shooting in RAW.

Let me explain:

Cameras can shoot images using several file formats.

JPEG is a common file format and it’s the default format on a lot of cameras.

7 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

But here’s the issue with JPEGs:

They’re compressed files. That means that they lose information.

And a loss of information? That makes for lower-quality photos.

Not to mention another issue:

Each time you edit and resave a JPEG, you’re reducing the image quality.

Fortunately, you have another option:

You can shoot in RAW.

RAW is another file format – and it’s offered by most modern cameras.

8 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

It’s a lossless file format, which means that you can edit RAW files repeatedly without reducing the image quality.

And here’s a RAW bonus:

RAW files allow for you to do more substantial editing. Because the RAW format saves more information, you’re able to recover highlights, boost shadows, and alter colors – far more than what you can do with a JPEG file.

9 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Bottom line?

Switch to RAW.

You’ll be thankful that you did.

3. You’re shooting during the harsh midday hours

One of the things that separates great photos from mediocre photos…

…is the quality of the light.

Good light can take a photo to the next level.

10 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Bad light can hold back an otherwise strong image.

Which brings me to mistake number three:

Shooting during the harsh midday hours.

Around midday, the sun is harsh. It causes contrasty shadows.

It’s just all-around bad for photography.

Instead of shooting during midday, try shooting during the early morning or evening hours.

11 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

That’s when the light is soft and golden.

(In fact, these times are known as the golden hours.)

Shooting during the golden hours will give your subjects a wonderful glow.

It’ll give them some soft illumination.

12 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

And it’ll give your photos a huge boost.

4. You’re using Auto mode all the time

When you first start shooting, it can be tempting to put your camera in Auto mode.

But here’s the problem:

When you shoot in Auto mode, the camera chooses all the settings for you.

And the camera does a good job 80 percent of the time.

13 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

But the other 20 percent?

That’s when your camera will mess up.

And you’ve got to be able to correct it.

Otherwise, your images will suffer.

14 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

So here’s what I’d suggest:

Start by learning the ins and outs of Aperture Priority mode.

(That’s the mode where you select the aperture and your camera will select the shutter speed.)

Then, when you’re in a non-stressful shooting situation, switch it on.

Try to use it more and more.

15 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Eventually, you’ll be shooting in Aperture Priority all the time. You’ll love the control it gives you.

And then?

If you want even more control over your camera, you can transition to Manual mode. But this isn’t a requirement – you can do a great job with just Aperture Priority.

16 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

So that’s your call.

Just make sure you move away from Auto mode.

5. You’re forgetting about the direction of the light

You already know about the importance of good-quality lighting.

But did you know that the direction of the light matters, too?

17 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Depending on the direction of the light, your photos can be soft, dramatic, or striking. And it’s important that you carefully choose the direction of the light.

(Because different types of light suite different subjects and styles.)

18 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Here’s a quick guide to light:

If the light comes from in front of your subject (i.e., frontlight), you’ll get an evenly illuminated photo.

If the light comes from behind your subject (i.e., backlight), you’ll get a striking photo. The light will create a golden halo around your subject.

And if the light comes from beside your subject (i.e., sidelight), you’ll get a dramatic photo. The subject will be only partially illuminated – and partially shrouded in shadow.

19 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Now, all these types of light have a time and place.

But frontlight is generally a very safe option.

(When in doubt, use frontlight.)

20 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Here’s the important thing:

Each time you go out to shoot…

…look for the light.

Taken note of the light.

And position yourself so that you get the shot that you want.

6. You’re not composing deliberately

If light is the number one most important part of photography…

…then composition is number two.

21 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Because in order to capture great shots, you’ve got to create great compositions.

That is, you’ve got to arrange the elements of your photo in a pleasing way.

It’s so easy to forget about this.

But you should deliberately compose every photo you take.

22 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Now, composing deliberately doesn’t have to be an ordeal.

Not every photo has to be a masterpiece.

Just think about each photo you take, if only for a second.

Here’s a tip:

Try positioning your main subject in a way that emphasizes its beauty.

You could put it a third of the way into the frame…

23 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

(Following the rule of thirds.)

Over time, your composition skills will improve. You just have to practice!

7. You’re not considering the background

When you’re doing photography, it’s easy to think about your subject.

But you’ve got to think about the background, too!

24 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

The background is what frames the subject.

It’s what makes the subject stand out.

Here’s a bit tip for a stunning background:

Simplify, simplify, simplify.

25 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

The simpler the background, the better.

Try finding a uniform background. A bright sky is a great choice. So is a dark wall.

(A uniform background really does make for a gorgeous photo.)

26 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

It’s okay to settle for a less-than-uniform backdrop.

But make sure that it enhances the subject. Make sure it doesn’t detract from the overall image.

8. You’re not practicing very often

Photography is a skill.

And to improve a skill, you’ve got to practice.

Which means that you should get out and shoot as often as you can.

27 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

I know that it’s hard.

But if you shoot for fifteen minutes every day, your photography will grow by leaps and bounds.

And if you shoot for an hour a day?

You’ll be astonished by how quickly you improve.

28 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

It’s important to note:

Practicing photography isn’t just about taking photos.

You should also make sure to review your images. Consider what you like about them. Consider what you can improve.

And apply these findings the next time you go out.

29 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

If you’re really serious about photography, you should also try reviewing other people’s images.

There are tons of great photography sites out there (including this one!). Try perusing them for fifteen minutes every day.

30 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

You’ll soon develop an enhanced sense of composition and color. And this, in turn, will enhance your photography.

9. You’re shooting from standing height

When you’re doing photography, do you shoot from a standing height?

That is, do you generally take the standard shot?

Or do you move around and look for a unique perspective?

31 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

The thing is, it’s easy to just shoot from a standing height.

But if you do this, your images will never be unique.

And they won’t be very original.

32 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

You want to show the viewer something they’ve never seen before. That’s how you’ll create a stunning photo.

So what do you do?

Instead of shooting from standing height…

Change your angle.

33 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Start by getting down low. Crouch on your knees. Get your pants dirty.

Then try moving to the side. Get a shot that nobody would ever think to take.

Next, find a nice vantage point – one that lets you capture your subject from above. Take a few shots from that angle.

34 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Do you see what I mean?

By changing up your position, you’ll capture unexpected, original, and compelling photos.

And that’s exactly what you want.

35 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

10. You’re not processing your photos

Let’s talk about one last common photography mistake:

Taking photos.

But not processing them.

36 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Processing is a hugely important part of photography.

Why?

Because modern cameras account for processing.

37 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

In other words, if you’re shooting in RAW, it’s expected that you’ll process your photos.

So the camera gives you unprocessed photos – photos that need processing to look good.

The photos are under-sharpened.

The photos are undersaturated.

They’re just all-around in need of some editing.

Which is what you must do.

38 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

If you’re not a fan of post-processing, that’s okay. You can take a minimalist approach to your processing.

But you should process your photos, if only a little bit.

Because processing will give them that final touch…

…that will make the viewer say “Wow.”

Common photography mistakes: What do you do now?

Now you know 10 common photography mistakes.

And if you’re making any of these mistakes, you might feel discouraged.

Don’t be.

39 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

Everyone is going to make mistakes. Especially when starting out.

The real question is…

40 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

What are you going to do about it?

If you follow the advice I’ve given you, you’re going to be in great shape.

41 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

You’ll improve at lightning speed.

And you’ll be so proud of the photos you take.

Have any other common photography mistakes that I didn’t cover? Let me know in the comments!

42 - Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid - Jaymes Dempsey

You may also find the following articles helpful:

12 Common Newbie Photography Mistakes to Avoid

Common Photography Mistakes Newbies Make and How to Avoid Them

10 Common Photography Mistakes and How to Overcome Them

 

The post 10 Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 10 Common Photography Mistakes Every Beginner Should Avoid

Posted in Photography