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US Supreme Court rejects request to hear ‘Jumpman’ copyright suit against Nike

27 Mar

The U.S. Supreme Court will not hear Jacobus ‘Co’ Willem Rentmeester’s copyright case involving the Nike ‘Jumpman’ logo, the high court has announced. The reason for the court’s decision remains unclear, but it leaves in place the 2018 ruling by an appeals court that found Nike hadn’t infringed upon Rentmeester’s image copyright with its iconic ‘Jumpman’ logo.

The legal matter began in 2015 when Rentmeester filed a copyright lawsuit against Nike over its ‘Jumpman’ logo featuring a silhouette of athlete Michael Jordan. The logo was based on an image of Michael Jordan produced by Nike in 1985, which was itself allegedly based on an image Rentmeester took of Jordan as a freelancer for Time Magazine. The two images, while expressing the same idea, are different.

Nike had originally paid Rentmeester $ 150 to license two of his 35mm transparencies featuring Jordan. Following that, the company paid Rentmeester $ 15,000 for a two-year license to use its own image based on the one Rentmeester took after he threatened litigation. In 1987, Nike then created the Jumpan silhouette logo based on its Michael Jordan image and it has used that logo in the years since.

Rentmeester’s January 2015 copyright infringement lawsuit was rejected by a federal court in Portland, Oregon, in June 2015. According to that court, Nike’s image presented a different expression of the idea behind the two images and copyright law only protects the expression of ideas.

The legal spat went to an appeals court, which ruled in 2018 that Nike’s image didn’t infringe upon the protected expression in Rentmeester’s image. The appeals court stated that the subject’s pose cannot be copyrighted, which would prevent other photographers from taking images of the person striking the same pose. Elements like shutter speed, camera angle, and timing all contribute to the expression of the idea in Rentmeester’s image, the court said.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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SkyPixel Reveals Winners of its 2018 Storytelling Drone Photography Contest

27 Mar

SkyPixel Contest 2018 Winners

DJI’s SkyPixel, one of the world’s largest photography and videography communities, has announced the winners of its 2018 Aerial Storytelling Contest. Over 30,000 entries were submitted by professional videographers, photographers, and hobbyists from 141 countries.

The grand prize-winning entry in the photo category, pictured above, was taken in Northern France by Deryk Baumgartner. He used a Mavic Pro to capture the sunbathed Mont Saint Michel monastery, shrouded in a thin layer of fog, and framed with snaking ribbons of water.

“I was sitting on a rock fighting with stubborn wind and thick rain for the whole morning. The sun came up when I was just about to stand up and go home,” Baumgartner said. “This photo tells a simple story of you and me. Stick to it for a little longer in life when you are just about to fold, the silver lining would often unveil itself.”

In addition to the Grand Prize, First, Second, and Third prizes were awarded to images spanning four categories: Nature, Fun, Architecture, and Sport. A panel of six judges including Ben Nott, ACS, an award-winning cinematographer and Josh Raab, the Director of Instagram at National Geographic, selected the winners with the exception of People’s Choice Prize.

To view all the winners, nominees, and People’s Choice, for both photography and videography, visit the official SkyPixel Contest 2018 hub.

Hungry hippos

‘First Prize’ category winner, Nature: Hungry Hippos by Martin Sanchez (@zekedrone)

About the photo: “There’s no party like a hippo party” said photographer Martin Sanchez about this top-down perspective, taken in Tanzania, of a group of hippos convening in a small body of water. Sanchez used a DJI Mavic 2 Pro.

Alien footprints

‘Second Prize’ category winner, Nature: ????” by ? ??

About this photo: Snow in the Taklimakan desert, located between two mountain ranges in Northwest China, combined with ice formed a unique texture on the lake during the winter. The photographer captured this image at 400 meters AGL with a Mavic 2 Zoom and likened the patterns as “alien footprints.”

Nature Engraving

‘Third Prize’ category winner, Nature: “Nature Engraving” by ???

About this photo: Using a Phantom 4 Pro in the Utah desert, the photographer used golden hour light, the texture of the badlands, and the icy hues resulting from shadows cast against patches of snow to his advantage.

Flowers on the water

‘First Prize’ category winner, Fun: “Flowers on the Water” by Khánh Phan

About the photo: Using a Phantom 4 Pro V2.0, Phan created an aerial perspective of three women methodically cleaning gun flowers, arranged in a circle, for bundling to sell in the markets.

Salt harvest

‘Second Prize’ category winner, Fun: “Burden Salt Harvest” by Tu?n Nguy?n

About the photo: Hon Khoi is the largest salt field in Vietnam. Using a Phantom 4 Pro, this nadir perspective fixates on the shadows of workers carrying buckets of salt on one of their daily shifts that range from 3:00 to 7:00 am.

Ducks in black and white

‘Third Prize’ category winner, Fun: ???” by ? ??

About the photo: A Phantom 4 Pro was used to capture this black and white image containing dozens of white peking ducks clustering around piles of food.

Hong Kong small planet

‘First Prize’ category winner, Architecture: “Not a Small HK Island” by Panvelvet

About the photo: Panvelvet used a Phantom 4 Pro to create 43 images of Hong Kong. They were stitched together into a tiny planet sphere, and inverted for a visual effect of a city circling toward a bright orb.

Myanmar temples

‘Second Prize’ category winner, Architecture: “Bagan” by Witold Ziomek

About the photo: Bagan used a Mavic Pro to capture the sunrise reflecting off a temple in Bagan, Myanmar.

Golden hour in Macau

Third Prize’ category winner, Architecture:?????” by ??

About the photo: Golden hour light brightens up the Grand Lisboa hotel in Macau, China. The photographer used a Phantom 4 Pro.

Running through sand dunes

‘First Prize’ category winner, Sport: “Running Through the Sand Dunes” by Trung Pham

About the photo: Pham used a Mavic 2 Pro to get an aerial perspective of children running through sand dunes in Phan Rang, Vietnam, early in the morning. The black and white image accentuates the vastness of the dunes in relation to the children.

Shadow skier

‘Second Prize’ category winner, sport: “Shadow Skier #5” by Christoph Oberschneider

About the photo: A Mavic 2 Pro was used to capture a lone skier gliding down a slope in Austria.

Hammer throwing

‘Third Prize’ category winner, Sport: “Throwing IT to the Moon” by Taavi Purtsak

About the photo: Purtsak used a Mavic Pro and set the shutter speed at 1/2500s to freeze the motion of Estonian hammer throw champion Kati Ojaloo mid rotation.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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What You Need to Know About Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

27 Mar

The post What You Need to Know About Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

When you’re getting started in flash photography, it can seem like your flash has a mind of its own. You’ll be surprised to know that in a way it does. However, switching to manual mode can give you the control you really want.

1 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash in manual mode lets you set the amount of light that you want to fire from your flash to light your subject.

What is manual mode?

External flashes are default set to the ETTL setting. This setting lets the flash meter the light and then give what it thinks is the correct output of light. ETTL is rather inconvenient since each photo you take will have a different output because the flash is constantly metering before each frame, causing a lot of inconsistency from photo to photo.

2 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Refer to your manual to find out how to change your flash from ETTL to Manual. On Canon, you push the MODE button until you cycle through to M which is manual.

Manual mode is where you take control of the power output of the flash and therefore get more consistently lit photos. For example, if you are in one spot photographing a portrait and don’t need to adjust for ambient light changes constantly, then you can set your flash at 1/4 power and leave it there until you move or want something different.

3 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

When competing with the sun, full power or half power is your best bet.

In manual mode, you override the flash’s metering and have full control. It also allows you to control taking photos at shutter speeds of more than 1/200th of a second, which is the fastest shutter speed in ETTL.

4 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

On this particular flash, hitting the button with the “H” on it will allow you to use a shutter speed faster than 1/200 of a second. Refer to your flash manual to find this option.

You can use manual mode in both outdoor and indoor settings. Practicing using your flash in manual gets easier over time, and eventually, you’ll be able to select the correct output for the ambient light or the effect that you want to achieve.

Manual mode is also really helpful when you ‘slave’ more than one flash. Slaving is when you sync more than one flash so that they go off at the same time. In manual mode, each flash can be set to a different power output so you can choose which is your key light and which is your fill – giving your photos more depth and contrast.

5 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

For these photos, two flashes were used to light the couple and keep the ambient in the background.

Metering output for flash in manual mode

Your camera meters ambient light, however, it does not do the same for flash output. Don’t worry though, with practice and a bit of trial and error, you will get to know your flash and when to use full power or half power, for example.

6 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Now you’re probably wondering what full power even means. An external flash has power output levels which are read in fractions. Full power output means that the flash is giving everything it has got and this is transcribed as 1/1. From there it can go to 1/64 of its power output.

There is no right way to begin practicing, however, it’s best to meter for the ambient light that you want to achieve in-camera. For example, if you’re photographing a family during sunset, meter for the sunset. Once you have that settled, put your flash in manual mode and begin with a power output of 1/4 power.

7 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

No flash was used for this portrait.

 

8 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Same family, location, ambient light and used flash at 1/8 power.

From there, adjust the power of the flash until you get the desired result. This way, you’re guaranteed to have the ambient light metered correctly and use the flash to fill in the light where you want it – in this case, on the family.

You can use your flash on your camera or off-camera in manual mode. Using it off-camera will give you a more angled direction of light and may inspire some creative lighting. On camera, be careful of the power output and angle you have your flash. Outdoors, you’ll probably want to point the flash at your subjects. Indoors, however, you might want to bounce the light off of a ceiling or adjacent wall.

9 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

If you’re using a modifier like a flash diffuser, be aware that the light output will be different than using the flash without a diffuser. The power needed to light your subject also depends on the distance at which the flash is from your subject. When your flash is closer to your subject, it requires less power because the light is closer.

10 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

If you are at a distance, then you’ll need to up the power on the flash in order for it to reach your subject at all. This can be especially tricky outdoors so make sure you are checking your photos after taking some test shots.

When to use your flash in manual mode

You should strive at getting comfortable using your flash in manual mode every time you need to use flash. This can really help you to get consistent photos when you’re not moving around or when the ambient light isn’t changing.

11 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

The left photo is with flash and the right is without flash. Note the blue of the ocean and the sky with the flash versus without flash.

The best times to use flash are when you want to pop some light onto your subject when you’re competing with the sun outdoors, or when you want to control and create light in a studio, to fill in shadows, during sunset or low light, and for indoor settings.

For example, when you are photographing family portrait sessions outdoors with the sunset, you may need to use the flash to fill in light so that you can get the beautiful sunset and not have your subjects in the dark.

12 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Left without flash and right with flash.

Another example is when you are in an indoor setting, like a bride getting ready and you can bounce your flash off the ceiling to add some light into the room.

Using your flash in a studio setting can be a little more tricky since flashes don’t come with modeling lights. If you’re photographing in a dark room, using a flashlight to focus your camera first can be a big help. Some flashes have a fluttering effect to help with focusing, check your manual to turn this function on.

13 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

One flash used for both photos. The left has the flash in front of the couple and the second has the flash behind the couple.

Using more than one flash at different power output levels can also create stunning photos with lots of depth, much like real studio strobe flashes but with more portability and less expensive.

To do this, you’ll need transmitters or some flashes also come with built-in sync transmitters. This means that when one flash sees another go off, it also goes off.

Other important factors when shooting with flash in manual mode

A few things to keep in mind when you’re photographing subjects with flash in manual mode include the batteries, shutter speed, ambient light metering, and high-speed sync.

14 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash to fill the couple in and capture the sunset.

When you’re photographing at 1/4 power or more, you’ll go through batteries much quicker. A battery pack especially made for flash and professional cameras can come in handy especially if you’re going to be using flash for a long period of time. It can also make recycling the flash much faster.

What is flash recycling? It’s the amount of time that it takes the flash to recycle and be ready to flash again. The more power you set the flash at, the more time it takes to recycle. For example, a flash at 1/2 power takes longer to get ready to fire again than a flash powered at 1/16.

15 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash at an angle to light your subject creatively.

The flash also takes much longer to recycle when the batteries begin to drain and lose charge. Have at least three or more sets of batteries at the ready in case this begins to happen.

When you’re using a flash in ETTL, the fastest shutter speed that you can use is 1/200th, on some, it can go up to 1/250th of a second. This isn’t too fast if you’re photographing in outdoor light or competing with the sun. Many flashes have the ability for high sync speeds when you’re using the flash in manual mode.

16 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash indoors bounced off the ceiling at about 1/16 power.

The distance of the flash to your subject can also affect where to set the power on your flash in manual mode. The further away your flash is from your subject, the more power you’ll need in order for the light to reach your subject. The closer you are, the less power you’ll need. Of course, this depends on where you are photographing your subject and if ambient light is a factor.

Practice makes perfect

Using flash can seem really intimidating. However, controlling your flash by using it in manual mode can be just the right move for you to get comfortable using a flash. Practice makes perfect and the more you practice with your flash, the more you’ll understand how to power it in certain lighting situations.

17 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Flash used at 1/16 power to fill in light and get catchlights in eyes.

Unfortunately, cameras don’t record flash settings in the metadata of your images. It only records if the flash fired or not. This isn’t helpful when you’re trying to practice flash in manual mode.

Carry around a small notebook and record your settings in your camera for each image that you take. This way, you can remember what your flash settings were in that particular set up and light for future reference.

18 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash at a 45-degree angle toward the subject off camera helps fill in the light.

As time goes on, you’ll be more comfortable setting, testing, and using your flash in manual mode.

In conclusion

19 - Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash

Using flash at 1/2 power indoors off-camera, on a flash pole high and pointed directly at the subject. This imitates the light of the sun for these indoor photos.

If you feel like using your flash sometimes gives your images an inconsistent look, try using your flash in manual mode. Manual mode lets you be in full control of how much light you want the flash to fire giving you more consistent exposures and taking out the guesswork of the flash itself.

Try it out and let us know if these tips helped you out!

The post What You Need to Know About Using Manual Mode on Your External Flash appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


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Huawei P30 Pro features super-wide-angle, 5x optical zoom and ISO 409,600

27 Mar

One year after launching the P20, Huawei has announced its new P-series high-end smartphone models: the P30 and P30 Pro. As usual, the Chinese manufacturer is at the forefront of smartphone camera development and the P30 Pro in particular has some real innovation to offer in the camera department.

The top-of-the-line device comes with a triple-camera setup (Huawei calls it a quad-camera, counting the time-of-flight (ToF) sensor), covering a focal length range that has previously been unheard of on a smartphone. The primary camera features a 1/1.7 40MP quad sensor that puts out 10MP images. The optically stabilized lens comes with an 27mm-equivalent focal length and F1.6 aperture. If you want to go wider there is also a 20MP 16mm-equivalent super-wide-angle option but the P30 Pro’s real highlight is the stabilized 5x (125mm-equivalent) periscope-style tele-camera with folded optics.

Huawei P30 Pro

The concept is very similar to OPPO’s prototype zoom system and allows for a much longer reach than would be possible with a conventional lens in a thin smartphone body. In addition Huawei also uses clever software algorithms to further enhance the P30 Pro’s zoom performance. In combination with a super resolution algorithm which merges several RAW frames into one high-resolution image that is then cropped to produce a zoomed image, a maximum zoom factor of 50x can be reached.

During the presentation Huawei CEO Richard Yu also put a lot of emphasis on the the camera´s low light capability, claiming a maximum ISO of 409,600 and the capability to capture well-exposed images in near darkness (1 Lux). This is made possible through the use of an RYYB sensor in the primary camera. According to Huawei the chip is 40 percent more light sensitive than a conventional RGB sensor. Combined with OIS and a fast F1.6 aperture the new Huawei should be one of the best performing smartphone cameras in low light we have seen.

There is also an improved portrait mode that creates a background-blurring bokeh effect. A first depth-map is created using data from the super-wide and primary cameras. It is then refined with the help of the ToF-laser that can precisely measure subject distance in all ligh conditions. Other imaging innovations include adaptive frame rates in video mode – the camera shoots at 60fps in bright light and with camera motion and reduces to 30fps in lower light or when the camera is held still – and HDR video recording on the front camera.

Other key specs include a Kirin 980 chipset, 8GB RAM, a 6.47-inch display with minimal bezels and FHD+ resolution as well as a 4,200mAh battery with fast charging. The Huawei P30 Pro is available from today but unfortunately isn’t quite a bargain. Pricing ranges from 999 ($ 1130) Euros for the 128GB version. You’ll have to invest 1249 Euros ($ 1410) for the 512GB top-of-the-range model.

Huawei P30 Pro key camera specifications:

  • Triple-camera setup
  • Primary: 40MP, 1/1.7-inch quad sensor; F1.6 aperture, OIS, 27mm-equivalent
  • Tele: 8MP sensor, folded optics with F3.4 aperture, OIS, 125mm-equivalent
  • Super-wide: 20MP, F2.2 aperture, 16mm-equivalent
  • PDAF/Time-of-flight (ToF) autofocus
  • LED flash
  • 32MP front camera, 26mm equivalent, F2 aperture, HDR video
Huawei P30

The P30 is the Pro version’s mode affordable cousin. In the camera department it lacks the 5x optical zoom and comes with a similar camera setup to last year’s Mate 20 Pro. The primary camera uses the same sensor as the Pro but has to make do without an OIS system. The super-wide comes with a lower 16MP resolution and the conventional tele ‘only’ offers an 80mm equivalent focal length.

Other differences include a smaller 6.1-inch OLED display and a lower capacity 3650 mAh battery. The Huawei P30 comes with 6>GB of RAM and 128GB of storage and will set you back 799 Euros ($ 900).

Huawei P30 key camera specifications:

  • Triple-camera setup
  • Primary: 40MP, 1/1.7-inch quad sensor; F1.8 aperture, 27mm-equivalent
  • Tele: 8MP sensor, F2.4 aperture, OIS, 80mm-equivalent
  • Super-wide: 16MP sensor, F2.2-aperture, 16mm-equivalent
  • PDAF/Time-of-flight (ToF) autofocus
  • LED flash

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: Langly Alpha Globetrotter Backpack is more style than substance

26 Mar

Langly Alpha Globetrotter backpack
$ 249 | Langly.co

Langly’s Alpha Globetrotter Backpack.

It seems that nostalgia for classic designs continues to be an obsession in the photography world and beyond. Cameras like the Nikon Df and much of Fujifilm’s X Series exemplify this. It’s no surprise that this same retro-ism has found its way to camera accessories – a perfect example of this is Langly’s Alpha Globetrotter backpack (hereafter referred to as “The Alpha”)

The Alpha is a bit like if your average front-loading Lowepro backpack had a baby with a classicly-designed Fjallraven backpack – and this cross-over comes with a high price tag. You can pick Forest Green for $ 249 or Slate Black with either Brown or Black leather trim options for $ 269.

Key specifications:

  • Dimensions: 18 x 14 x 8in /45 x 29.5 x 20cm
  • Weight: 4lbs / 1814g
  • Water resistant, TPU-coated canvas exterior
  • Waterproof zippers
  • 15in Laptop Sleeve
  • Gear storage for DSLR body and 3-5 lenses (lens size dependent)
  • 3 exterior pockets with pin-buckle snap closures
  • Tripod holding straps on bottom of bag

Compared to Other Bags

The Alpha’s price tag puts it in the same bracket as bags like Peak Design’s Everyday Backpack and Mindshift’s Backlight and Firstlight. Both of Mindshift’s bags carry a good deal more gear and have more of an outdoor focus. Despite Langly’s outdoor-focused aesthetic, Mindshift’s bags win in this category due to similar levels of weather-resistant materials and a harness design more akin to hiking backpacks, including padded hip straps. That said, neither of Mindshift’s bags have very solid compartment sections for everyday items.

Alpha’s style is really what’s going to separate it from other bags

The Alpha’s style is really what’s going to separate it from other bags. Classic and retro are the ideas here; if that’s not your thing and you like a more technical/futuristic design, then look to Peak Design’s Everyday Backpack or Tenba’s DNA 15 Backpack. The Peak Design bag is essentially the same price and offers a bit more storage between its side panels and expandable top compartment. Meanwhile the Tenba also has an expandable top compartment, but like the Alpha has a front loading gear compartment and for only $ 199.

Design and Construction

The lower portion of the bag is the gear storage compartment, the upper portion is for personal items. The Alpha’s straps are not as padded as we’d like to see in a premium backpack and hip straps offer no padding.

The Alpha looks a lot like Fjallraven’s bags, featuring a single color with a leather-like insignia. Its shape also resembles old hiking backpacks a bit. Make no mistake, it looks good. I actually got a compliment or two on the bag when I was out wearing it. Again, the style is definitely a huge selling point here.

I normally go for black in almost everything, but I enjoyed having something with a solid earth tone like the Alpha’s forest green.

The TPU-coated canvas exterior feels sturdy and truly weather-resistant. A flap over the top compartment provides an additional barrier to keep water out, though it feels somewhat redundant. The two main zippers (one for the gear compartment and one for the top compartment) are weatherproof, while all the other pockets are enclosed with a pin-buckle system.

The Alpha’s pin-buckles snap and lock into place, securing the flaps they’re attached to.

The weather-proofing is definitely welcome but while Langly advertises itself as an outdoor-oriented brand, I’m a bit disappointed by the relatively simple nature of the Alpha’s harness system. The shoulder straps are only slightly-padded and the hip straps have no padding at all.

Another odd design choice here is the shoulder straps have plastic buckles you can undo, presumably for the purpose of storing them behind the large velcro strap in the middle of the back of the bag. There isn’t really any issue here but it seems weird that the shoulder straps are storable but the hip straps really aren’t.

Straps, everywhere.

The Alpha also features straps on the bottom to use as a tripod holder (or to hold a sleeping bag – though I’d be surprised if anyone was taking this on extended hiking adventures). They’re definitely useful for their intended function, but with all the other straps for the harness, plus the straps used for the pin-buckles, the Alpha feels way too ‘strappy’ for my taste. Some people like to have a lot of stuff dangling from their bags and that’s fine, but I found it to be distracting and annoying more than anything else.

My basic organization for the gear compartment allowed me to fit a DSLR, four lenses and a flash.

The Alpha includes 6 dividers in 3 different sizes. You likely won’t need them all at once.

The gear compartment also feels sturdy and the included dividers do their job. There’s not much to note here other than the fact that the dividers don’t come installed in any way. If you really like a blank slate to start from you might appreciate this but I definitely prefer to have some kind of organization in place that I can build from, mainly because I found getting the dividers to fit was just kind of a hassle. That said, once they were in there they feel snug and secure.

In use

Despite my gripes with the design of the Alpha, I enjoyed using it. Everything felt secure, the zippers were fairly smooth, and I was able to carry a pretty solid kit plus a book, some snacks, an extra sweater, etc. I was convinced I would hate the pin-buckles but actually found them super satisfying to use and had confidence in their staying locked.

I found the weatherproof zipper plus double pin-buckles for the top compartment flap to be a bit confusing. It works just fine and protects everything but the flap just feels unnecessary. It’s made of the same weatherproof material that’s underneath, so other than giving the zipper a bit of added protection it’s just added weight and bulk.

Comfort-wise, I felt good about wearing this bag for a bit, but I doubt it would be all that fun to lug on a hike

The top flap also makes me think that the top compartment would be expandable, but because of the zipper, it isn’t. Granted, it is plenty big for carrying your everyday essentials, so no complaint in terms of size. I’m just hung up on some of these odd design choices that feel counter-intuitive to what Langly seems to be aiming to accomplish with its bags.

The non-expandable side pockets are my least favorite aspect of The Alpha.

Comfort-wise, I felt good about wearing this bag for a bit, but I doubt it would be all that fun to lug on a hike. While Langly is clearly trying to carve out an audience in the outdoor photography community, the Alpha feels pretty lacking when it comes to the sorts of things I’d expect to see in a hiking/shooting backpack.

The only thing about the Alpha I strongly dislike is the design of the side pockets – they’re fine for carrying additional items that might not fit in the other compartments. But the flap flops about when using them to carry a water bottle – they’re also too snug to fit larger containers like a 32oz Nalgene. I definitely would have preferred an expandable mesh pocket or something similar with a breathable bottom.

Bottom line

To sum up the Alpha in a simple phrase, I’d choose: ‘style over substance’. This bag looks great and would feel extremely appropriate in any #PNW #GetOutside #Adventure -tagged Instagram post, but anyone that’s spent a lot of time in the outdoors would know that this bag isn’t really any better-suited for that sort of thing than most other camera bags. It feels like it was designed for people to look like they spend time outdoors, rather than being designed for anyone to actually spend time shooting the outdoors.

With that said, that’s not such a bad thing. If you’re into the style, it feels perfectly at home as an everyday shooting backpack to use in the city as well. It’s probably not applicable to anyone shooting real professional stuff (photojournalism, sports, weddings, etc) but for engagement sessions out in the park? Sure. Actor head-shots downtown? You bet. If you like the style of this bag and your gear-carrying needs are pretty straightforward, then it will probably suit you well.

If you’re into the style, it feels perfectly at home as an everyday shooting backpack for the city

The design flaws here aren’t really deal breakers, they just feel like crossed wires in regards to what’s important in a bag. Assuming you’re okay with ~$ 250 of ‘looks cool’ on your back, get it, but I would at least consider some of the other options listed above if you’re looking for something of a different style.

What we like:

  • Looks stylish
  • Sturdy and made from solid materials that feel truly weather-resistant
  • Lots of space to pack gear, personal items in main compartments

What we don’t:

  • Pricey
  • Minimal padding on shoulder straps
  • No padding on hip straps
  • Redundant design elements lead to bulk
  • No convenient way to carry a water bottle
  • Too many straps dangling about

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Using Color Temperature in Black and White Conversions

26 Mar

The post Using Color Temperature in Black and White Conversions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

Digital photography has opened up enormous possibilities for black and white photography. The ability to first shoot in color and then convert the image to black and white offers photographers a way to express themselves in ways that reach beyond the influence of color. Well, for the most part.

You see, advanced black and white conversions take advantage of the different luminance values present in our RAW files so that we can individually manipulate those values after we have converted the color image to black and white. Usually, this is done via the HSL (BW) Panel in Lightroom or other processing software.

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

But there is one ingredient of the black and white pie that gets constantly overlooked during the average photographers (let’s pretend) black and white conversion process; color temperature. I know, the operative word here is COLOR and black and white photos…you know…don’t really have a lot of color.

In this article, we’re going to take a cruise aimed at getting a little closer to understanding how much of a role color temperature plays in our digital black and white conversions. We’ll look at how we can leverage this constantly neglected aspect of digital black and white photography so that we have many more opportunities to make even more impressive monochromatic images.

I also intend to make at least one black and white related pun before the end.

Let’s get started!

A quick refresher on color temperature

When we talk about color temperature, we are referring to the hue-based Kelvin scale (there’s a temperature-based one too) which measures the hue of color and thus relates to white balance; which is the theoretical absence of color cast within an image. More blue or “cool” colors have a higher Kelvin number, and more red or “warmer” colors have a lower Kelvin number.

“Adam…but wait! Most image processing software shows lower Kelvin color temperatures as blue and warmer colors as red!”

Yes, you are precisely correct. You paid excellent attention in science class!

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

In short, the color temperature sliders in most photo editors are in fact reversed from the true Kelvin scale. From what I’ve gathered, this inversion is due to the approach that white balance adjustments in digital photography are based on “compensation” rather than direct cooling or warming of colors. This means that if a photo is “cool” out of the camera, we will tell the software to “warm it up” by increasing the Kelvin value to bring the white balance closer to the original scene. Thereby, making the photo perceptibly warmer.

Yeah, it’s confusing.

Luckily, we don’t have to worry about any of that.

For our purposes, we are just concerned with how the cool or warm the colors are within the image regardless of actual numeric Kelvin temperature.

Thank goodness for that.

How color temperature affects black and white photos

The remainder of this article assumes that you are shooting in RAW format or at the very least in color JPEG.

We need the color information from the image file to exploit the impact of color temperature on luminance values after the black and white conversion. This means it is imperative that you do not shoot in a dedicated monochromatic mode.

Got it? Good.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way it’s time to experiment.

Let’s first convert an image to black and white in Lightroom Classic CC and see what happens when we begin to adjust the color temperature. I just happen to have a photo ready to go right here. It is a RAW file with a relatively well-balanced color temperature that I converted to black and white.

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Color temperature slider set to 5050K in Lightroom

First, let’s slide the color temperature slider entirely to the left and “cool” the image.

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Color temperature slider at 2000K in Lightroom

Next, we’ll move the color temperature slider all the way to the right to “warm” the image.

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

Color temperature slider set to 50000K in Lightroom

From this, we can see that there are some readily apparent changes in contrast based solely on the adjustments in color temperature.

So, what exactly is happening here?

Let me show you.

Have a look at the original histogram with conventional white balance:

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-1-2

HIstogram with normal white balance

Now with a much cooler color temperature…

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-1-2

Histogram at 2000K

And lastly, with warmer color temperature.

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Histogram at 50000K

When we cool down the image we are causing the colors to become more blue, purple and magenta in hue; hence the shift in the histogram and resulting contrast change. The same is true for the warmer color temperature where the photo becomes more red, orange and yellow.

What we are doing is setting a bias towards certain colors which in turn augments their luminosity when converted to black and white. The benefit here is that these drastic changes in color temperature allow us to make some impressive adjustments to the luminance values beyond what might usually be possible once you have converted it to black and white.

Practical applications

Advanced digital black and white conversions rely heavily on specific adjustments in luminance values based on color information contained within the image file. If we increase the amount of a particular color within an image, we then have more latitude in manipulating the brightness values of that color in relation to the other colors within the photo.

Here are three separate versions of the Golden Gate Bridge photo from earlier. The first photo was processed using the HSL/BW Panel to brighten the bridge and darken the sky.

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-2

Next, I went to work on the 2000K version from earlier. Seeing as the blue tones had skyrocketed, I was able to achieve some interesting results.

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-2

Last but not least is the warm-toned version which clocked in at 50000K. Which if you recall, would make the photo cooler instead of warmer if we were operating in the world. However, we’re not. This is photography.

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-2

These extreme swings in color temperature are useful almost exclusively in the domain of black and white digital photography. Outside of that, the only result will be gruesomely unappealing white balance.

color-temperature-black-and-white-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-2

I mean really unappealing (caption)

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Just look at it…terrible.

Ok, I’ll admit that maybe I low-key like that last one.

Final thoughts on color temperature and black and white photos

We can get caught up with the idea that there are certain “rules” which must always be adhered to when we process our photos.

Nothing could be further from the truth.

While it’s true that color temperature plays an important role in rendering colors within your image accurately, we must remember that we are still allowed to paint outside the lines whenever we choose. Perhaps the benefit of this free-thinking mentality is no more apparent than when it comes to working with our black and white photos.

Making drastic changes to the white balance of your black and white images is not only allowed, but it can make for some exciting outcomes and boost your creative thinking.

Even though your mind may not immediately jump to color when you think of black and white photography, the fact remains that even though we may not see color within a photo, the inherent color information remains (as long as you shoot RAW) and that information is still wholly adjustable, including white balance. The role color temperature plays in processing your photographs is never black and white. See, I told you I would work that pun in there somewhere.

Experimenting with some interesting black and white conversions using color temperature? As always, we’d love to see what you’ve been up to, so feel free to post your photos in the comments below!

The post Using Color Temperature in Black and White Conversions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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‘Streets in Mind’ shows NYC through the eyes of B&W street photographer Alan Schaller

26 Mar

SmugMug Films has released Streets in Mind, its latest film that follows London-based street photographer Alan Schaller around the busy streets of New York City.

The film comes in at five-and-a-half minutes and takes a wonderful look into the life and work of Schaller. As narrator, Schaller explains how he came to be a street photographer after a career in music.

In the words of SmugMug Films, Schaller’s ‘surrealist, geometric eye reveals the hauntingly intimate beauty which exists in the hustle of every day life in the Big Apple.’

You can find more of Schaller’s work on his Flickr photo stream and purchase a print through his online shop.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Photo Mechanic 6 launches with 64-bit support, selectable ingestion and more

26 Mar

As promised earlier this month, Camera Bits has released Photo Mechanic 6, a major update to the company’s image ingestion software. A free trial is available to download for new users on Windows and macOS, while ‘qualified’ existing customers can upgrade for $ 89 USD. A new software license is priced at $ 139 USD. For users who purchased Photo Mechanic 5 in 2018 will receive a license key for Photo Mechanic 6 for free.

Photo Mechanic 6 brings a large number of big and small improvements, including the previously announced 64-bit support, the ability to ingest images from selection, better image caching, full-screen support for Preview and Contact Sheet windows, and reverse geocoding.

As part of the initial release, Photo Mechanic 6 brings new elements including a new render cache and image gallery exporter. In addition to new features, version 6 also adds improvements to existing tools, including crop, slideshow, and the Find and Replace panel, plus new support for Blu-ray disc burning and much more.

The software enables photographers to rapidly ingest images, organize, and manage them at faster speeds than catalogue-based competitors. Users have the ability to cull, tag, view, organize and export their images from a single application. This is the first major update to Photo Mechanic since the release of version 5 in 2012.

Mac users must be running at least Mac OS X 10.10 or higher to use Photo Mechanic 6; Windows users must be running a 64-bit version of either Windows 7, 8, or 10.

In addition to the release of Photo Mechanic 6, Camera Bits has also announced Photo Mechanic Plus, a premium upgrade version of Photo Mechanic that will include the much-anticipated Catalog feature. A limited beta of Photo Mechanic Plus will be launched on April 22nd to Photo Mechanic 6 owners at no extra cost and will be launched alongside a dedicated forum where beta testers can share feedback.

In Camera Bits’ own words, the upcoming Catalog feature ‘is an image database for managing large numbers of image files across multiple locations.’ After the beta period is over Photo Mechanic Plus will be offered as a paid upgrade over Photo Mechanic 6 at a price that’s yet to be announced.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Apple Final Cut Pro X 10.4.6 update brings detect and convert feature for older media files

26 Mar

Apple has pushed out Final Cut Pro X update (version 10.4.6), that adds the ability to automatically detect and convert any legacy media files that will not be compatible with future versions of macOS, as well as numerous bug fixes and improved features.

Last year, Apple began warning its users that older video formats and codecs relying on QuickTime 7 would no longer be supported by future macOS releases due to the 64-bit transition. Though legacy media files remain compatible with macOS Mojave, updating a Mac system beyond Mojave in the future could prove problematic for filmmakers who have content in older formats.

In a note about this potential issue on its website, Apple warns users to convert their incompatible media files before upgrading to the next major macOS version after Mojave. The newly released Final Cut Pro X 10.4.6 simplifies this requirement by detecting and converting these files into a format that will remain compatible with macOS in the future.

In version 10.4.6, Final Cut Pro users who open a library or import content will see a window listing any incompatible media files the software found. Users can immediately convert these files by clicking ‘Convert’ in the window. Copies of the converted content are created in Apple ProRes format and stored in the library’s media storage location. Existing clips in the library are then relinked to the converted files.

There’s an exception for Motion projects, however, with Apple warning that Final Cut Pro won’t detect incompatible media files in these projects. Instead, users will need to open the project in Motion, after which point a message will appear warning if any incompatible media is present. In that case, the user would need to convert it using QuickTime Player or Compressor.

Media conversion aside, Final Cut Pro X version 10.4.6 brings several relatively minor bug fixes and improved reliability when sharing videos directly to YouTube.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?

26 Mar

The post Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

For many portrait photographers, the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is considered the key to great results. This lens seems like it covers all the bases that any portrait photographer would want: wide aperture, a range of good focal lengths, and excellent build quality. It’s the cornerstone of many portrait photography workflows – and with good reason too – but it also comes with a hefty price tag (nikon, canon, sony). The question, then, for many amateur and semi-professional portrait photographers becomes: do you really need a lens like this to get good portraits? The answer might surprise you.

Nikon D7100, 50mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/2.4, 1/3000th second.

Whenever you are thinking about buying new gear, it’s wise to perform a needs assessment. This can help you figure out exactly what you can do with your current camera equipment, what you want to do, and whether a new purchase is required to bridge that gap. You can do this using a variety of methods, but a good way to start is to ask yourself some simple questions such as:

  • What camera lenses do I currently have?
  • What kind of portraits do I want to take?
  • Do I know how to use my lenses to get those portraits?
  • If not, can I learn to use my lenses differently instead of buying new gear?
  • In what ways are my current lenses limiting my portraits?
  • What lens would be best for the portraits I would like to be able to take?

Nikon D7100, 35mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/3.3, 1/90th second.

Perhaps your current lenses are lacking in specific areas such as the ability to shoot in lower light, overall sharpness, or autofocus speed. In that case, it might be a good idea to look at upgrading your gear. However, it is also entirely possible that the lenses you have are just fine for portraits and you don’t need new lenses at all.

If you do decide to drop some cash on a new lens, you might think that a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is the be-all, end-all, ultimate goal to start saving for. Also, in many respects, you wouldn’t necessarily be wrong. However, you can get outstanding results with other lenses too and save a massive amount of money in the process. Here are some other lenses worth considering that produce excellent portraits for a lot less money.

Note: While I mostly mention Nikon and Canon lenses throughout this article, you can also get the same types of lenses for other systems like Sony, Olympus, Fuji, Panasonic, Pentax, and more.

The Power of the 50mm Prime

One of the most amazing lenses you can get for portraits is a humble 50mm f/1.8. The Nikon version is around $ 200 and the Canon retails for about $ 125, and there are plenty of third-party options available as well.

These little workhorses, sometimes called the Nifty Fifty or Fantastic Plastic due to the nature of their construction, can produce absolutely breathtaking results. In some ways, they are actually better than a two-thousand-dollar 70-200mm f/2.8 pro-grade lens. A 50mm f/1.8 lens has more light-gathering ability which means lower ISO values or faster shutter speeds in low light, as well as shallow depth of field.

Autofocus speed on these lenses isn’t going to win any awards, nor are they designed to take a beating or function in the rain and snow. However, they shoot great images in low light, and their wide apertures let you get the type of creamy bokeh you might have always wondered about but never been able to achieve with your kit lens.

Nikon D200, 50mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/1.8, 1/250th second.

If you’re the type of person who delights in pixel-peeping or poring over MTF charts, you might turn up your nose at an inexpensive 50mm f/1.8 lens. That’s not the point of a lens like this though, and what they lack in technical specs they more than make up for with sheer results. Also, at less than one-tenth the cost of a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, their price-to-performance ratio is almost impossible to beat.

Nikon D7100, 50mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/4, 1/350 second.

The Mighty 85

One downside to shooting with a 50mm lens is that you won’t get much background compression. Your subjects won’t appear any closer to the background elements in the shot. While you can use an f/1.8 aperture to make the background blurry, it won’t zoom in much which is one advantage of a lens with a longer focal length. If that’s what you’re looking for, then an 85mm lens might fit the bill quite nicely.

Nikon D7100, 85mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/2.8, 1/350th second.

An 85mm f/1.8 lens is going to cost about two to three times what you would pay for a 50mm f/1.8 – around the $ 400 mark for both the Nikon and Canon.

In exchange, you’re going to get a hefty piece of equipment that is a little sharper, a little faster to focus, and will give you a bit more flexibility in terms of your portraiture. Its longer focal length will make it seem like backgrounds are just a bit closer to your subject.

In addition to their ability to get super blurry backgrounds when shooting at wide apertures, this could be the answer you are seeking.

Nikon D7100, 85mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/2.8, 1/750th second.

The 85mm focal length is ideal for many portraiture situations. I know professional photographers who choose to shoot with an 85mm lens instead of a 70-200 f/2.8 lens. 85mm lenses are smaller, lighter, and often just as capable as their big brothers.

Moreover, when you shoot at f/1.8, you can blur the background even more than a more expensive f/2.8 lens when shooting at similar focal lengths. While it’s true that the f/1.8 versions aren’t going to be as tack-sharp as their f/1.4 or f/1.2 counterparts, it’s hard to beat the value you get for your money.

Go wide with a 35

While many people tend to think of longer focal lengths as being best suited for portraits, you can get good results with a wider lens too. The 35mm focal length is close to what our human eyes see and can help you capture in-the-moment shots that are highly sought after by many people who want portraits. You can get up close and personal with a 35mm lens, shoot in low light conditions, and even achieve the buttery-smooth bokeh that you have always been craving.

Nikon D7100, 35mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/1.8, 1/1000th second.

Best of all, 35mm lenses are so cheap that you’re never going to break the bank with the Nikon coming in at around $ 200. Canon doesn’t offer a first-party 35mm lens but the excellent 40mm f/2.8 pancake lens is almost the same and even less expensive at about $ 175. My favorite part about a 35mm lens is that you can use it to get intimate images the likes of what a 70-200 f/2.8 could only dream of.

Nikon D750, 35mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/4, 1/90th second.

For years I shot almost exclusively with a 35mm lens on my full-frame camera. It was a constant companion of mine on everything from formal portraits to casual everyday shots. In fact, one of the biggest reasons I now use a Fuji X100F for almost all of my photos is because it’s basically the same as using a 35mm lens on a full-frame camera but in a much smaller package.

I wouldn’t go so far as to do entire portrait sessions with only a 35mm lens, but if you’re considering a way to upgrade your kit you might be surprised at how much mileage you can get out of this lens. I would even go so far as to say that you’d be wise to have it even if you do opt for a 70-200mm f/2.8, simply because it’s nice to have the flexibility of shooting at a wider angle when you really need it.

Nikon D7100, 35mm f/1.8 lens. Shot at f/4, 1/45th second with an external flash.

The main takeaway here, before I get to an examination of the 70-200mm f/2.8, is that you can do a lot with other lenses. Whether it’s one of these less-expensive primes or a more professional-grade lens like the Canon 85mm f/1.2 or the Nikon 105mm f/1.4 or any number of other lenses especially from third parties like Sigma and Tamron, the point is you don’t always need the heft and focal range of a 70-200mm f/2.8.

But sometimes you do.

70-200mm f/2.8: The Jack-of-all-trades

It’s impossible for me to say whether any individual photographer needs one of these lenses, but I can say that they are extremely useful in a variety of situations. They are professional-grade lenses designed to meet the demands of a variety of situations, especially for portrait photographers. If you really can’t get your work done with the gear you have, and if one of the other lenses I’ve already discussed isn’t going to meet your needs, then a 70-200mm f/2.8 might fit the bill quite nicely.

Nikon D750, 70-200 f/2.8 lens. Shot at 200mm, f/3.3, 1/250th second.

There are many times in which these lenses can outperform a lot of other options.

If you find yourself in situations like this, then a 70-200mm f/2.8 could be just what you’re after.

They are great for things like:

  • Fast-moving subjects who just won’t sit still. In other words…when you are photographing portraits of kids outdoors.
  • Full-body portraits where you want a nice blurry background
  • Subjects that are far away and you need to zoom in to see them
  • Group photos where you want to see the whole family but still have a nice blurry background
  • People moving towards the camera, either by themselves or as a group. You can stay in one place and adjust your focal length to zoom out while they get closer.
  • Action-style portraits of adults or kids while they are playing sports
  • Photographers who need a lot of versatility in their lenses, without wanting to change lenses or carry multiple camera bodies.

Nikon D750, 70-200 f/2.8 lens. Shot at 140mm, f/4, 1/250th second.

A 70-200mm f/2.8 lens isn’t always a necessity, but it can make a big difference if your needs aren’t met by other gear. They’re heavy and expensive, but the results can be worth it as long as you know why you want one and what you plan on using it for. You should also note that you might not need the sheer light-gathering capability of an f/2.8 aperture. In many cases, you would be well-served with a 70-200 f/4 lens which is going to cost significantly less and still produce good results.

Nikon D750, 70-200 f/2.8 lens. Shot at 200mm, f/4, 1/180th second.

Third-party options are a good choice too. You will often find 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses from Sigma, Tamron, and others available for about 50-75% of what you would pay for a first-party lens. These might not have the snappiest autofocus or same level of build quality, but for most portrait photographers they would work just fine.

Conclusion

Hopefully, this information, along with some of these pictures, helps you get a better sense of what different lenses can do. Of course, a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is great, but if you examine your situation and think about your needs and goals, you might find that a different lens would suffice quite nicely. The point is to find something that works for you, no matter what it is and no matter what other people might use. As long as your gear helps you get the photos you want to take, then that’s all that matters.

The post Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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