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DPReview TV: Panasonic S1H first look

28 Aug

Jordan takes a first look at the new Panasonic S1H while wrestling with the moral struggle of cheating on his beloved GH5.

Editor’s note: Instead of a sample gallery, we’re providing several ungraded clips from the S1H for download so that you can try grading it yourself. (See the links below the chapter markers.) If you have difficulty playing the clips try using the VLC media player.

Get new episodes of DPReview TV every week by subscribing to our YouTube channel!

  • Jordan's moral struggle
  • Introduction
  • Camera body
  • Clever features
  • The sensor
  • 6K shooting
  • Rolling shutter
  • Dual-native ISO
  • High ISO performance
  • Compression
  • Audio features
  • The fan
  • Slow motion
  • Assist tools
  • Photo capability
  • 6K interview with cinematographer Nick Thomas
  • Drawbacks
  • Conclusion

Panasonic S1H video sample download links

  • 6K shot at 3:2 aspect ratio in rec.709
  • 6K detailed crop shot in 709-like profile
  • 4K V-Log (high contrast scene)
  • 4K at ISO 3200 shot in 709-like profile
  • 4K at ISO 6400 shot in 709-like profile
  • 4K at ISO 12,800 shot in 709-like profile
  • Indoor V-Log shot at ISO 640

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to take Great Flower Photos without a Macro Lens

27 Aug

The post How to take Great Flower Photos without a Macro Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Are you interested to try some flower photography but you get discouraged by guides telling you to get a macro lens? I was too at first, but macro is not the only way to get some amazing pictures. Keep reading for some tips on how to take great flower photos without a macro lens or buying any new equipment or accessory.

How-to-take-Great-Flower-Photos-without-a-Macro-Lens

Flower Photography Detail Close Up

Detail and depth of field

One of the reasons photographers recommend a macro lens is to capture small details with shallow depth of field. Some offer alternatives like extension tubes or reverse rings that allow you to focus while being very close to your subject. This is, in fact, a nice look for flower photography, but if you’re not ready to invest in new gear, there are other ways to get it.

How-to-take-Great-Flower-Photos-without-a-Macro-Lens

Focal Distance: 55mm, f/13, 1/400th, ISO 640

I shot this image using a 55mm lens with f/13, 1/400th shutter speed and 640 ISO. As you can see, I managed to get reasonably close, so never let the lack of equipment prevent you from practicing.

You can start by using a wide aperture and the longest focal distance you have to experiment from there. In order to make the best out of the equipment you have, check out the article How to Control Depth of Field in Your Photography.

Draw inspiration from nature

Now that we’ve covered the macro effect, let’s broaden the horizon and think big. There’s much more to flower photography than just the details. Flowers come in all shapes and colors, so include all those natural elements and use them to your advantage.

Flower Photography in Nature

Composition

There are many rules that you can use as guidelines to create interesting images. To learn more about them I recommend the article How to Apply Compositional Theory to Still Life Photography.

In this photo below, I lowered my point of view so I could create three different segments following the rule of thirds: flowers, trees, and the sky.

How-to-take-Great-Flower-Photos-without-a-Macro-Lens

The Rule of Thirds and point of view help your composition.

Color contrast

Using color as a compositional element is very easy to do when photographing flowers. Because they are so vibrant, you’ll always find one that stands out. You can put contrasting colors next to each other to make elements stand out while still being in harmony. You can start by isolating a subject against the background and work your way up to include more elements.

How-to-take-Great-Flower-Photos-without-a-Macro-Lens

Tones or patterns

Another way to use color in your images is to use only one to dominate the image. It may sound easy and perhaps dull, but in reality, if you incorporate different tones of the same color or a pattern, it can become a subject in itself. Megan Kennedy wrote a number of articles here on DPS called Master Colors Series covering the psychology and evolution of each color. Check them all out for inspiration!

Hues and tones from the same color

The cultural aspect

Now that we’ve passed aesthetics and are into content let’s say that flowers are much more than just pretty subjects. They speak their own language as we have given them all sorts of cultural meanings. The color, the season, and even the presentation change our perception. We use them in joyous celebrations and on the occasion of grief, passing through all other kinds of events. When you incorporate this matter on top of the visual aspect, things can become really interesting.

Still life

Defining the line between photography genres is always a tricky subject. Are all flower photography images a still life? No. Are all still life images flower photography? Also, no. But the two genres often intersect, so play within that field to stage your images. You can use different elements, adjust the lighting and even some post-production. To get you started here are some Simple Methods for Creating Better Still Life Images.

Still life is great for flower photography

Still life is great for flower photography

Conclusion

I’m not suggesting you shouldn’t buy a macro lens or any other gear and accessories, especially if you are planning on becoming a professional. However, there’s much versatility in flower photography so you can do without them. Of course, you can also look into many creative techniques like double exposure, light painting, or dynamic zoom.

Do you have other ideas to take flower photos without a macro lens? Share in the comment section!

 

How-to-take-Great-Flower-Photos-without-a-Macro-Lens

The post How to take Great Flower Photos without a Macro Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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Top compact: Canon G5 X II vs. Sony RX100 VII vs. G7 X III

27 Aug

Introduction

Despite the improvements made in smartphones, 1″ sensor compacts remain one of the best ways of getting great images and some decent zoom reach in a pocketable form.

Both Canon and Sony have just updated their pocket-sized models, using the latest Stacked CMOS technology: Canon with the Powershot G5 X II and Powershot G7 X III, and Sony with the Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 VII.

They’re rather different, each offering a different balance of size, price, zoom range and lens brightness. We’ve just updated our buying guide to compare the new trio to their existing peers, but we also wanted to see how they stack up against one another.

As always, it depends what you want to use them for, so we’re going to take a look at a series of popular types of photography to see how well-suited these latest cameras are.

Lenses

One of the biggest distinctions between the cameras concerns their lenses. At 24-200mm equiv, the Sony by far offers the greatest reach and the most flexibility. However, the F2.8-4.5 maximum aperture range is considerably less bright than the F1.8-2.8 lenses fitted to the two Canons. The graph above shows how those apertures compare as you zoom in (a lower number is better).

Interestingly, the G5 X II and G7 X III use different lenses, with the G5 X II offering a more impressive 24-120mm equivalent range, which offers a lot of the Sony’s capability while maintaining the low light and shallow depth-of-field benefits of its brighter aperture.

The G7 X III uses the same lens as its predecessor, and it offers the shortest range of this trio (though still longer than the RX100 V(A) or Panasonic LX100 II). From our experience, the lens in the G7 X III is probably the weakest at wide angle settings, as well.

We’ll take a much closer look at how these different lenses impact different types of photography later on.

Features

From a quick look at the headline specifications, all three cameras will look pretty similar: they’re all 20MP cameras based around Stacked CMOS 1″-type sensors. All three are also capable of shooting 4K video. But the differences start to stack up (no pun intended) the more you dig into things.

The biggest differences spring from the RX100 VII having a newer sensor that allows 20 frame per second shooting with no viewfinder blackout (the live view is interrupted only by an on-screen indication that photos are being taken).

There are differences too in the way the three cameras capture their 4K footage: the Sony applies a small (1.08x) crop but uses every pixel within that region, creating highly detailed oversampled footage. The Canons use the full widths of their sensors but don’t appear to use all their pixels, and the footage is significantly less detailed as a result.

The other major difference is in terms of autofocus. The RX100 VII has an AF system derived from the company’s pro-sports-oriented a9 camera, which tracks subjects and switches to face or eye detection as appropriate. By comparison, neither the G5 X II or G7 X III are able to track subjects while continuously shooting. This difference will prove significant across a range of different types of shooting.

Travel

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 VII | ISO 100 | 1/1600th sec | F6.3| 196mm equiv.
Photo by Dan Bracaglia

The longer zoom range of the RX100 VII makes it the obvious choice for travel photography. Backed with excellent AF, 20 fps shooting with no blackout and impressive video specs, it’s ready and able to shoot just about anything you might encounter on your travels.

The G5 X II has perhaps the most flexible lens, though. It gives up some reach at the long end, but its faster maximum aperture means it’s able to stay at a lower ISO and hence offer better image quality as the light levels fall. The inclusion of ND filters in the lenses of both Canon modes mean you can more readily utilize their shallow depth-of-field capabilities, as well as helping in video.

The G5 X II is also quicker to respond to user input than the Sony, despite the RX100 VII’s processing muscle. If your photographic style is more about taking control and changing the settings, the Canon is likely to give a more engaging experience.

All three cameras can be charged over USB but, whereas the Sony uses a traditional Micro-B connector and will accept a charge from just about anything, the two Canons are more picky about the power source for their USB-C connectors. Newer, higher power chargers and power banks will work, though.

With its shorter lens, lack of viewfinder and not very impressive image quality at its wide-angle settings, the G7 X III is the weakest travel option here, even though it’s a rather good camera.

Family and moments

Canon Powershot G5 X II | ISO 125| 1/1000th sec | F4 | 24mm equiv.
Photo by Carey Rose

As with travel shooting, the RX100 VII’s longer zoom range makes it a more flexible ‘whatever happens next’ camera, but the Canon G5 X II isn’t far behind in this regard.

The Sony’s biggest advantage, though, is the ease and effectiveness of its autofocus system. It’s uncannily good at recognizing and focusing on people you point it at. It’s also very good at maintaining its focus on your intended subject, rather than leaping off to another person the moment your subject turns away.

The RX100 VII is, in many respects, the best family camera ever made

The Canon pair’s brighter lenses give them a huge advantage when it comes to shooting indoors, but their autofocus isn’t nearly as fast or dependable as the Sony, which undercuts this benefit. You will get cleaner, less noisy images in any situation where your subject doesn’t move too much or too fast. They’re also unable to shoot bursts with continuous face tracking, which could be a pain point for parents photographing their families.

The Canons have ND filters built in, which means you can more easily shoot smooth-looking video footage, thanks to the use of appropriate shutter speeds. They offer fewer specialist tools for getting the most out of the video, and again can’t match the Sony in terms of simplicity and dependability of focus.

While the Canons are both pretty capable, the RX100 VII is, in many respects, the best family camera ever made, just in terms of how well it can cope with the unpredictability of everyday life.

Lifestyle and people

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 VII | ISO 2500 | 1/800th sec | F5 |196mm equiv.
Photo by Dan Bracaglia

The shorter but brighter lenses of the Canons make it easier to get shallow depth-of-field than the Sony, though it’s worth noting that the G7 X III’s lens isn’t very good at the wide-angle end. As well as giving an arty effect to close-ups and slightly more compelling portraits, the wide maximum aperture maintains the image quality better as light levels fall.

The trio also have tiny built-in flashes to provide some fill-in light even in bright conditions

Again, though, the RX100 VII’s autofocus makes it quicker and simpler to reliably get people in focus. The Canons can track faces in continuous AF mode but not while shooting bursts, and though their Face + Tracking mode works similarly to Sony’s ‘Wide’ AF area, the Sony is generally faster to respond. All three cameras have Bluetooth systems to stay connected to a smartphone, which makes it faster to connect and send images over Wi-Fi.

The trio also have tiny built-in flashes. They’re limited in range but, because all three cameras have super-fast lens shutters, the mini strobes can be used to provide some fill-in flash, even in bright conditions. The flashes are all bounce-able, meaning you can tilt them back with your finger and fire them at the ceiling, which will give you a softer look than if you keep the pointed straight at your subject.

Landscape

Canon Powershot G5 X II | ISO 125 | 1/1600th sec | F4.5| 24mm equiv.
Photo by Jeff Keller

All three cameras are suitably pocketable that they’re easy to take with you, wherever it is you want to shoot.

The Sony has a number of significant advantages over the Canons: the biggest is that its lens is better at wide-angle, while the longer zoom also gives move compositional flexibility (though the G5 X II’s 120mm equivalent long end shouldn’t be especially restrictive). The Sony also offers considerably longer battery life, though a rating of under 400 shots per charge should encourage you to think about having a means to recharge it if you’re planning to spend any length of time out in the wilds. This is likely to be most pressing if you want to take advantage of its intervalometer mode.

We’ve been impressed by the sweep panorama modes on all three cameras, which makes it very easy to casually capture extra-wide landscapes in high detail.

Like the Sony, the G5 X II has a built-in viewfinder, which certainly helps when shooting outdoors in bright light. The clicking front dials and dedicated exposure comp dials are likely to make them a fraction easier to operate with gloves or cold hands, too. Both Canons offer in-camera Raw conversion if you want to fine-tune your images before you get back to a computer.

Since all three cameras are based around similar sensors, there’s no significant difference in Raw performance between the three. An unintended benefit of the Sony, though, is that you can use HLG and zebra highlight warnings to give an indication of the sensor clipping point, providing an on-the-fly hack for optimally exposing your Raw files.

Video

Still grabbed from a 4K video shot with the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 VII

To begin, all three cameras are able to shoot 4K video and offer fairly robust stabilization while doing it.

The Sony’s footage comes from a slight crop of the sensor, but is much more detailed than that from the Canon. It also offers a much stronger set of support features. Zebra warnings help you set exposure and the ‘HLG’ color mode (even in the 8-bit form used here) captures more dynamic range and gives you much better processing flexibility than the Canons can offer.

The RX100 VII has a mic socket but no ND filter, which means adding unofficial third-party accessories if you want to shoot video at sensible shutter speeds in good light. Both Canon cameras have built-in ND filters that can be engaged at the press of a button, meaning you don’t have to resort to this sort of workaround.

The Canons are smart enough to keep separate exposure settings for video and stills shooting (which the Sony doesn’t, unless you set up Memory Recall), making it quicker to switch back and forth between stills and video. But the Sony lets you define separate Fn menus and custom buttons for stills and video shooting, which is a benefit if you’re really trying to take control of what the camera’s doing.

Then, of course, there’s autofocus. You’ll need to engage ‘Touch Tracking’ in the menus to access the Sony’s touch-to-track capability but the results are really impressive if you do: it will stick pretty reliably to your subject and will refocus quickly and smoothly with essentially no user input (so long as you don’t stop down too much, again encouraging the purchase of an ND filter). The Canons can’t quite match that: though their face detection is pretty reliable, they use a contrast-detect only system, which can result in visible hunting and being slow to catch up to changing subjects.

Photographers’ compact

Canon Powershot G7 X III | ISO 125 | 1/500th sec | F1.8 | 24mm equiv.
Photo by Barney Britton

This category is a bit of an outlier. Basically, if you’re already a reasonably experienced photographer that perhaps has a kit built around an interchangeable lens camera, which of these compacts would be best if you wanted to go out with a camera in your pocket, instead of in your backpack?

For almost every type of photography, we’ve found Sony’s easy-to-use and effective autofocus gives it a clear benefit over the Canon models. The speed and processing power needed to deliver this level of performance explains much of the price difference between the cameras.

Which of these cameras is best if you want a camera in your pocket instead of your backpack?

However, while many types of shooting benefit from it, not all photography needs action-ready AF performance. Lots of photographers have got great results out of compact cameras with significantly slower AF than is available today. So, while AF performance gives the Sony the edge for a lot of photography, it’s not the end of the story.

In our shooting, we found many of us preferred shooting with the G5X II. It wasn’t necessarily as good at ‘getting the shot’ as the Sony was, but it was a more agreeable companion to shoot with.

Part of this is down to the brighter lens: there were plenty of situations in which we were happy to give up some of the extra reach the Sony offers in return for a little more control over depth-of-field and the image quality benefit of being able to get more light to the sensor.

But another aspect of this was the simplicity of the Canons. A clicking dial on the front of the camera lends itself well to controlling settings such as aperture value, and a dedicated exposure compensation dial is much nicer to work with than the fiddly dials on the back of all three cameras. Then there’s the responsiveness of the Canons. It’s an odd charge to level at a camera with the obvious processing power of the RX100 VII, but it’s simply not as quick to respond to user inputs.

The net effect is that, partly because they have fewer features, the Canons end up being more straightforward to just go out and shoot with.

Conclusion

The message that shone through when considering this article is just how many types of photography benefit from how well the Sony RX100 VII’s autofocus works. Which isn’t to say that the Canon system is terrible, but it just can’t compete with the speed, simplicity and reliability of the latest Sony implementation.

However, the processing power and R&D costs that underpin that capability don’t come cheap, which means the Canon pair are both significantly less expensive. There’s a lot to like about both Canons but everything we’ve seen of the G5 X II suggests it has a better lens compared to the G7 X III, as well as a more useful zoom range. Add onto this the benefits of an electronic viewfinder (albeit one that’s a bit more fiddly than the one on the RX100 VII) and the G5 X II is would be our pick of the Canon models.

If you don’t need action-ready autofocus and the very best 4K, or are willing to give these up for the benefits of a wider aperture, the G5 X II’s is an excellent camera. But, even with the degree of customization the Sony needs, the RX100 VII is a genuine leap forwards for compact cameras, in a way that will benefit a range of photographic pursuits.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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4 Necessary Reasons to Look Through Your Old Photos

27 Aug

The post 4 Necessary Reasons to Look Through Your Old Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

As photographers, we mustn’t live with our heads stuck in the past. If we’re not trying new ideas, exploring new techniques, or finding ways to push ourselves to be better, we might quickly find ourselves drowning in a sea of irrelevance and mediocrity. However, there is a time and a place to look in the rear-view mirror. Looking back at some of your old photos can have incredible benefits, aside from just happy feelings of nostalgia. Sometimes the best way forward is to look at the path we have taken. Even though to look through your old photos can be embarrassing, there are some clear benefits to doing so.

Reasons-to-Look-Through-Your-Old-Photos

1. It helps you realize you weren’t that bad

I’m a pretty self-conscious guy, and as such, I don’t like looking at pictures of myself. I always find something to criticize, even if they are things that no one else would ever notice! Looking back at some of the earlier pictures in my photography portfolio is the same way. Sometimes seeing the pictures I shot is enough to make me cringe. So I want to throw my old albums out the window!

This is precisely why it’s good to dust off your old photo albums or look through the image folders on your computer you’ve been neglecting for years. Looking through the images you shot when you were new to photography, can more often than not, let you see how you really weren’t as bad and probably much more talented than you realize.

Reasons-to-Look-Through-Your-Old-Photos

I shot this in 2013. While I had a lot to learn about lighting and editing, it’s actually a pretty decent image.

If the thought of looking at your old pictures makes your skin crawl, there’s a good chance you might have been a lot better than you thought. While your early images were probably not perfect, they can be a source of encouragement. You see that you clearly did have some skills – even if they had a little way to go before maturing.

2. You can learn from your mistakes

Even though your older pictures might not be as bad as you think, you can learn a lot from going through your earlier work. Over the years, you have almost certainly improved your techniques in terms of lighting, composition, framing, or even just posing your clients.

Reasons-to-Look-Through-Your-Old-Photos

I shot this in 2014 when I didn’t know how to use a reflector but brought one with me to the session anyway. The colors on his face just don’t look right.

I know how it can be painful or embarrassing to scroll through your photos from five or ten years ago. It’s almost like looking through your high school yearbook and cringing at the silly hairstyles and weird fashion choices from days gone by. If you do this with your images, instead of turning away from your mistakes, learn from them. Realize what not to do now and in the future.

The image below is a good example of this. While my clients were happy, and so was I at the time, when I look at this picture now all I see are errors to fix. I shot it with a 50mm lens at f/2.8 and focused on the man in the back, which meant everyone else is out of focus. I didn’t have a sense of how to pose, nor was I really paying attention to lighting. The list goes on.

However, rather than pretend this session didn’t exist, I use it as a learning opportunity.

Image: One of my first portrait sessions, shot in early 2013.

One of my first portrait sessions, shot in early 2013.

Here’s another illustration of how much I have learned since my early days, especially when it comes to formal sessions. Why is there an orange shoe in the middle of the picture? Also, why is there a giant tree growing out of the head of the child on the left? Why did I use a 1/80th shutter speed?

The world may never know the answers, and I certainly don’t. However, when I see this old picture, it helps me also see what I can do differently today.

Image: Another family portrait session from 2013. Don’t judge me…I was new and didn...

Another family portrait session from 2013. Don’t judge me…I was new and didn’t know what I was doing. My clients liked it though!

3. It helps you refine your editing style

In addition to photography style and techniques, searching through your old pictures can give you a great deal of insight into your editing process.

It’s not easy to see slow, incremental changes over time. However, when you compare your current editing style to that of when you first started, you might be surprised. You may even be shocked at the difference. This can be a learning opportunity and help give you insight into how you might continue to refine and hone your edits.

I took the following picture in the summer of 2013, and I clearly remember spending a long time working with it in Photoshop. The result is what you see here: over-saturated sky, poor dynamic range, and a weird color balance that seems unnatural and icky.

4 Necessary Reasons to Look Through Your Old Photos

When I edited this RAW file, I was way, way over-thinking the process and ended up with kind of a mess. I can still see myself hunched over an old iMac, refining my selections, creating new layers, and fiddling with color edits ad nauseam. Now I’d just pull this into Lightroom, tweak a few sliders, and end up with a much cleaner and more pleasing image.

Here’s another picture that, upon first look, makes me want to chuck my computer out the window and never look at my cameras again.

Image: Shot in the fall of 2014, when I still had an awful lot to learn.

Shot in the fall of 2014, when I still had an awful lot to learn.

This picture is practically a textbook example of what not to do when shooting or editing a picture. Aside from all the issues in the image itself (soles of shoes, people sitting on an old canvas, awkward posing and hand placements, an disregard for background objects), the editing was atrocious.

My subjects are underexposed. The white balance is all wrong, and there’s no sense of contrast. Moreover, I didn’t bother using any noise reduction, so their faces are kind of patchy if you zoom in to 100%.

I’m a much better editor now than I was back when I shot this seven years ago. When I look at this picture and others like it, I can immediately see how I have changed my editing process over the years. It gives me a few ideas of what I should continue refining in the future.

Reasons-to-Look-Through-Your-Old-Photos

When I edited this picture in 2013, I didn’t know what I was doing. But looking back at it helps me remember what to do, what not to do, and what I can change in my current style.

4. Early photos can inspire you!

There’s a lot I wish I could take back about my early photography. However, I feel some of my work now lacks something: a spark of life and a sense of abandon. When I first picked up a camera, I would see photo opportunities everywhere; inside my home, walking around the neighborhood, even my office at work.

With clients, I had a much more carefree attitude, shooting whatever I wanted, whether I thought it would look good or not. It was a carefree time when I didn’t worry about (or even know about) proper technique, good lighting, high ISO values, rolling shutter, or any of that. Like a kid in a candy store, I remember latching on to anything and everything around me.

I even set my alarm early so I could take pictures of my kids’ toys in the living room before the sun came up.

Reasons-to-Look-Through-Your-Old-Photos

I took my camera to a sporting event back in 2014 and shot everything I could see, even if I didn’t know what I was doing. Including these bocce balls sitting on astroturf. I kind of miss that approach, and looking at photos like this helps rekindle it.

When I started taking pictures more seriously, I saw the world differently. Every tree, building, or animal was a fun and exciting photographic opportunity. I’ve lost that over the years. Now I think I over-analyze situations – trying to find the perfect moment, subject, or lighting condition.

Going back through old photos takes me back to a time when I didn’t care about any of that. I just took pictures of what I thought was fun and interesting. It has inspired me to be a little more creative and a little less analytical with my photography now.

Image: I spent half an hour trying to capture this image with my brother in the summer of 2014. We h...

I spent half an hour trying to capture this image with my brother in the summer of 2014. We had such a fun time doing it! I need to do more shots like this…

Looking at your old pictures can bring up some strange emotions, and it can certainly be awkward or feel silly. But buried in your images from days gone by is a treasure trove of education just waiting to be unlocked.

Reasons-to-Look-Through-Your-Old-Photos

This image of a tree borer I took in 2013 remains one of my favorite insect pictures I have ever taken.

Conclusion

The next time you pull up your photo library on your computer or scroll through images in your photo app, go back to your earliest pictures and see what you can learn from them. You might be surprised at how enjoyable and educational your trip down memory lane can be!

Do you ever look through your old photos? What have you learned from them? Share with us in the comments!

 

Reasons-to-Look-Through-Your-Old-Photos

The post 4 Necessary Reasons to Look Through Your Old Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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NeuralCam Night Photo app brings Google-inspired ‘Night Sight’ functionality to iPhones

27 Aug

An app called NeuralCam Night Photo uses machine learning and computational photography to offer a ‘Night Sight’ mode on the iPhone. The technology works to transform very low-light images into brighter, clearer photos without the need for a tripod using only software.

NeuralCam Night Photo was recently featured on Product Hunt where app creator Alex Camilar had the following to say about the app:

‘Our inspiration for NeuralCam comes from all the various Night Modes available on Android phones, that helped people make brighter and nicer photos in low light settings, whether natural or artificial. We wanted to make the best out of the iPhone’s hardware and give it the software spin needed to get its own Night Mode photography update.’

NeuralCam Night Photo can be used in a variety of low-light settings, including for both indoor and outdoor shots, according to Camilar. The entire process is done behind the scenes, meaning NeuralCam should more or less work the same as any other camera app for iOS; compose the scene you want to capture, wait for the app to focus, capture the image, and within a few seconds you should see a much brighter and clearer photo than would otherwise be possible.

A comparison shared by NeuralCam to show the difference between an image shot in the standard iPhone camera app (left) and NeuralCam (right).

The app works by capturing multiple images and processing them using machine learning. This same computational photography approach has been used by Google for its single-camera Pixel smartphones.

NeuralCam Night Photo is available for the iPhone 6 and newer; it requires iOS 12 and is supports both the front and rear cameras on these phones with the exception of the iPhone 6s / 6s Plus, which only has rear camera support. A full list of supported image resolutions for each iPhone model can be found on the app’s App Store listing, where the product is temporarily discounted to $ 2.99.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Rental marketplace ShareGrid owner’s guarantee covers all equipment up to $20,000

26 Aug

Film, photography and production equipment rental marketplace ShareGrid has introduced a $ 20,000 owner’s guarantee that covers all equipment against damage, theft, loss and fraud, including voluntary parting (theft by the renter).

‘Our goal has always been to make ShareGrid the safest way to rent your equipment to other people, and today we’re excited to offer even more protection to our users’ said Marius Ciocirlan, co-founder and CEO of ShareGrid. ‘For years, we’ve been the only marketplace to offer instant coverage against Voluntary Parting. With the ShareGrid Owner Guarantee, we’re taking this a step further and including protection against voluntary parting automatically. Best of all, it’s completely free for all our members.’

‘Voluntary parting’ or theft by the renter is typically not covered in the rental industry but is luckily also extremely rare. ShareGrid says only one in 10,000 rental transactions are affected, thanks to heavy investment in security technology and personnel. At 0.02 percent ShareGrid competitor KitSplit’s voluntary parting rate is double that of ShareGrid’s but still very low in absolute terms.

ShareGrid’s Owner Guarantee offers protection for all rentals of equipment up to $ 20,000 in value and is included automatically. Terms are very similar to KitSplit’s equivalent policy but ShareGrid does not have the latter’s 20 percent deductible, making it the slightly more attractive offer.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Peer-to-peer rental platform KitSplit launches comprehensive owner’s guarantee

26 Aug

Peer-to-peer equipment rental platform KitSplit has expanded its insurance cover for equipment owners. Gear that is rented out via the platform is now also covered for theft by the renter, in addition to previous coverage which included damage, loss and theft from the renter.

‘The trust of our community and the safety of their gear is of utmost importance to us. With the Owner Guarantee, and our improved vetting, we are excited to give our owners even more peace of mind, ” said Lisbeth Kaufman, CEO and co-founder of KitSplit. ‘Trust has been a focus of ours from day one, and we’re excited to build the safest way to rent cameras in the industry.’

Previously theft from the renter, or ‘voluntary parting’ as it is called in the industry, was excluded from coverage which according to KitSplit is industry standard. KitSplit says that in the past voluntary parting on KitSplit has been very rare at about one case in 5000 rental transactions. Still, when it happened the consequences for equipment owners could be very painful.

In addition to the expanded insurance coverage, the company uses a proprietary 40 point risk vetting system to ensure only trustworthy professionals can offer and rent equipment on the platform. You can find more information on the KitSplit website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nitecore leaps into the world of optics with 5 new full-frame cinema lenses

26 Aug

Nitecore, a Chinese company known for its rechargeable flashlights and third-party battery equipment, has taken an unexpected leap into to the world of optics with its Superior Prime lineup, a collection line of prime cinema lenses for full-frame camera systems.

The five lens lineup includes a 25mm T2.1, 35mm T2.0, 50mm T2.0, 75mm T2.0 and 100mm T2.0. The exact specifications for each lens are detailed in the below graphic, but across the board, the lenses measure 117mm long (with the PL mount) and 95mm diameter for seamless swapping when using gears and other cinema equipment. Nitecore says the lenses will be available with interchangeable PL, Canon EF and Sony E mounts, but will ship with the PL mount in the original packaging.

The exact details on the coating technology used aren’t specified, but Nitecore says the lenses ‘are designed with a unique optical coating which ideally controls dispersion while retaining plentiful details to create low contrast and a stylized flare.’ The 75mm T2.0, in particular, is also ‘specially optimized on the skin details in a portrait,’ although we’re not exactly sure what they’re referring to with that statement.

There are currently no details on pricing or availability. We have contacted Nitecore in an attempt to get more information and will update this article accordingly if we hear back.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop Stackable Neutral Density Filter Review

26 Aug

The post Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop Stackable Neutral Density Filter Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

There is something about long exposure photography that is just, for lack of a better word, appealing. Blurring moving elements (like water, clouds, tourists and moving cars) in your images can create an ethereal or even surreal aesthetic that many photographers, myself included, are drawn to. Formatt-Hitech’s Firecrest 16-stop neutral density filters take long exposure photography to the extreme. By allowing ten-minute exposures in the middle of the day, these filters open up long exposure techniques to normally impossible times. And it does it with fantastic results. In this article, I’ll review the Firecrest 77mm 16-stop Stackable Neutral Density Filter.

What is it?

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

A neutral density filter is a piece of material (glass or resin in most cases) that you affix to the front of your lens. What they do is cut down the amount of light hitting your sensor, increasing the amount of time you need to expose for. Doing this allows you to get longer exposures than you would normally be able to, making it easy to blur water and clouds in a satisfying way.

Most ND filters come in a range of one to three stops. However, five and ten-stop filters are also very popular amongst landscape photographers. During golden hour and blue hour, when light levels are generally quite low, these strengths of filter make it easy to achieve exposures that last for several seconds.

Image: An exposure time of 408 seconds in the middle of the day is impossible without a specialist f...

An exposure time of 408 seconds in the middle of the day is impossible without a specialist filter such as this one.

What a 16-stop filter allows is extremely long exposures even in the brightest of lighting conditions; including midday sun. For example, with a 16-stop filter, an exposure of 1/2000th of a second becomes 30 seconds. In comparison, with a 10-stop filter, that 1/2000th of second exposure becomes 1/2 of a second. You can probably already see the advantage that the denser 16-stop filter provides.

To drive it home, look at the sunny 16 rule, which says that on a bright sunny day, an exposure of f/16 at 1/125th of a second should give you close to a correct exposure (it usually does). With a 10-stop filter, that becomes 8 seconds.

That might be good enough in many cases, but it also won’t completely blur anything other than the fastest moving elements. With 16 stops, that 1/125th of a second becomes 8 minutes and 44 seconds, ensuring anything moving in your frame is either blurred or disappeared.

What is this good for?

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

A 16-stop ND filter allows you to blur moving objects in your frame, which can lead to more pleasing images.

Being able to blur details out of clouds and water allows you to remove details that might detract from your subject. This lends itself well to minimalist styles of photography. If that fits your taste, the results can be stunning.

Exposures of this length not only blur moving elements within your frame but can also completely remove other moving things. Boats in rivers, tourists in front of landmarks, and anything else that might move through your frame during the exposure time disappears.

A filter of this strength is also good for things like star trails at night.

Before you consider

Image: You may need some extra specialist equipment before you get started, such as the trigger that...

You may need some extra specialist equipment before you get started, such as the trigger that allows the control of your camera with a phone.

The one thing that you need to know before you consider purchasing a filter like this is that you will need some extra equipment you may not already have. A high-quality tripod is an absolute must as you will need to keep your camera absolutely still during the long exposures.

The other thing you need to take into account is some way of controlling your camera. Because many cameras are limited to exposures of 30 seconds, you will need a way to keep the shutter open in bulb mode for the duration of the exposure without touching the camera. There are many options out there, including remotes and cable releases. I used the Pulse time-lapse trigger from Alpine Labs, which lets you control your camera with your phone. There are others available too, like the MIOPS trigger.

An exposure calculator is also an absolute must as you will need to be able to calculate how long your exposures need to be. There are plenty of free options available for both Android and iOS.

The Filter

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

After shopping around for a bit, I decided on Formatt-Hitech’s circular screw-in Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop stackable neutral density filter. This filter has a few features that make it stand out.

Since I knew that I would not be using any other filters in conjunction with this one, I wanted a circular screw-in variety. That’s because I thought that the length of the exposures might create the opportunity for light leaks with my normal filter system. I might be wrong on this, but it’s not a chance I wanted to take.

Formatt-Hitech claims their filter is truly neutral (including in the UV and infrared spectrums) and that there are no color casts. This is important to me as my Lee Big Stopper (10-stops) always adds a strong blue cast that is painful to deal with. I won’t go into details about the coatings as you can find them on the product listings.

Does it do the job?

Image: The Formatt-Hitech Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop stackable neutral density filter is certainly a cap...

The Formatt-Hitech Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop stackable neutral density filter is certainly a capable piece of kit.

That’s an emphatic “yes” from me. While there are some downsides to the filter, it provides all of the quality you could expect. The few places it does fall short are all easy to overcome and well worth the little effort to do so.

Pros

Exposure times

Image: The exposure difference between a 10-stop and 16-stop filter can be a bit staggering at first...

The exposure difference between a 10-stop and 16-stop filter can be a bit staggering at first.

Just as the exposure calculator said, the 16-stops of ND filter provides really long exposures even in daylight. 1/125th of a second becomes nearly nine minutes, while 1/15th of a second becomes nearly one hour and thirteen minutes.

Attaches well

Image: It still takes care, but the filter attaches easily enough.

It still takes care, but the filter attaches easily enough.

It’s easy enough to attach the filter to the filter thread of your lens. It does require care as it is easy to slip (I’m sure that’s more me than the filter), but with this technique, there’s no reason to go fast anyway.

Color casts

Image: The color represented without the 16-stop filter.

The color represented without the 16-stop filter.

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

Color represented with the 16-stop filter.

I won’t say there is no color cast, but they are very minimal if they appear. Comparing shots with and without the filter side by side, it does seem that there is a slight, slight shift towards blue and green. However, I am not sure if that’s an optical illusion. Either way, it’s easy to deal with.

Cons

There are some downsides of both the filter and the technique. However, their effects are minimal and easy to overcome.

Extra equipment

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

As mentioned, to get started with this technique, it’s not just the cost of the filter you need to take into account. If you don’t have a good enough tripod or some variety of release to trigger your camera, you will have to shell out for those.

Light leaks

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

Circled is a pair of light leaks that appear at either edge of the frame.

Despite opting for the circular filter to avoid light leaks, they did appear in my images at the left and right of the bottom third of the frame. They were minimal and easy to deal with in post-production, but they are there.

I have done some research, and it seems there’s a chance these leaks are coming from where the lens attaches to the camera body. If that’s the case, you can fix it by covering the join with black material. Formatt-Hitech also sells an accessory that fits around the front of the lens and filter to help prevent light leaks.

Exposure times in low light

When it comes to shooting later in the day when the exposure times get longer, and the light changes rapidly, it’s likely your required exposure time will change partway through your exposure. For example, if your metered exposure when you start is 1/125th (8 minutes and 44 seconds), and the light levels drop to 1/30th (if the sun moves behind a cloud for example) during that exposure, the new time is 36 minutes and 24 seconds. This means that your image will be quite underexposed.

Because of this, I’ve found this technique works better in the middle of the day when light levels are consistent.

Noise and hot pixels

Image: Here, you can see a combination of noise and hot pixels after an 8-minute and 44-second expos...

Here, you can see a combination of noise and hot pixels after an 8-minute and 44-second exposure.

Noise and hot pixels have little to do with the filter itself. Extremely long exposures with digital cameras open you up to problems with noise. The longer your shutter is open, the more noise appears in your frame.

Software is very good at dealing with this, but you do need to be aware of it.

This is especially true if you opt to up your ISO in lower light levels to keep the exposure time in the minutes rather than in the hours.

Direct light

Image: Taken in overcast conditions, the technique has emphasized the flatness of the light.

Taken in overcast conditions, the technique has emphasized the flatness of the light.

Image: In direct sunshine, contrasty conditions get emphasized.

In direct sunshine, contrasty conditions get emphasized.

What I’ve found with this technique is that it works best with direct light on your subject. If the conditions are overcast, or the light is otherwise dull, the long exposure tends to emphasize the flatness of the scene.

Of course, that won’t always be the case and please don’t take that as a rule of any sort, it’s just an observation. If you live somewhere that is sunny and bright most of the time, this won’t pose you much of a problem. However, I live in Yorkshire and overcast days are the rule rather than the exception.

Price

I do not include the price of the Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop Stackable Neutral Density Filter as either a pro or a con. At $ 125, it’s probably not going to be an impulse buy for most photographers. However, for what it is, what it does, and how well-made it is, it is well worth that price. It’s also roughly the same price as filter offerings from companies like Lee Filters.

Overall experience

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

Overall, the Formatt-Hitech Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop Stackable Neutral Density Filter does exactly the job I bought it for.

In the end, the Firecrest 77mm 16-stop Stackable Neutral Density Filter does exactly what I wanted it to when I bought it, and it does it well. The complications aren’t hard to overcome, and it is well worth the extra effort. At $ 125, it is well within reach of anyone who wants to have a serious attempt with the techniques it offers.

I also found that I really appreciate the side effects of the technique. Because the exposure times are incredibly long, you can spend a couple of hours on location and come away with only a handful of images. This slow-treacle approach to photography is enjoyable and turns the whole experience into a mindful one.

If you like the effect of streaky clouds and flat water, or you are into minimalist photography, this type of filter may be indispensable for you.

Do you do long exposure photography? Do you use a 16-stop filter? What are your experiences? Share with us in the comments!

Firecrest-77mm-16-Stop-Stackable-Neutral-Density-Filter

The post Firecrest 77mm 16-Stop Stackable Neutral Density Filter Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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How to Plan and Pull-Off a Toddler Photo Session

26 Aug

The post How to Plan and Pull-Off a Toddler Photo Session appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

Toddlers are filled with volatile emotions. They can be shy, moody, defiant, chaotic, unpredictable, and in need of bribes. So a toddler photo session can be a challenge.

But when you build a photo session just for toddlers, it’s far less challenging and lots of fun. It is also the perfect opportunity to get creative.

Here’s how to let your inner child create a toddler photo session that’s fun for you and toddlers.

Toddler-photo-session-Documentray toddler photo session

1. The big idea

The first step is to plan out the photo session. I think that a themed lifestyle or documentary session is perfect for toddlers.

The big question is, how do you come up with an idea or theme for the session?

Many photographers choose a theme themselves, such as princesses or pirates. The benefit of choosing your own theme is that you get to exercise your creative vision (designing the set, costumes, etc.) and let people choose to be part of it or not.

Of course, one downside is that it’s a cookie-cutter approach that gives every child similar portraits.

If you want to choose something unique to the child, keep in mind that every toddler has something they love to do. Go with that as the theme for the session.

If they love dinosaurs, then find a way to make dinosaurs part of the session. If they love to play with big-rigs and diggers, then make those part of the session. Whatever it is they love, try to make it larger than life for the session.

Toddler-photo-session-Toddler photos at football field

When I found out that this little guy loved watching football with his Mom and Dad, I knew we had to visit an actual football field for his photo session.

Start with a small everyday experience and take it to the next level (I’d love to hear some of your ideas in the comments).

2. The toddler photo session

When it comes to pulling off the session, start by being prepared. This seems obvious, but many photographers come unprepared, and it can ruin a session.

If you are prepared, then you won’t have to think about it during the shoot. The less you have on your mind, the more room you have to be creative.

Gear

Pack the right gear and check twice that you’ve got it all.

  • Spare camera
  • Charged batteries
  • Lights (if needed)
  • Props (provided by you or the family)
  • A checklist of other things you need

Part of being prepared is being familiar with your camera and knowing what settings to use. I keep things as simple as possible with aperture mode and exposure compensation. I only use manual mode when I need it.

Fire fighter thmemed toddler photo session.

Even though props for the session should be prepared in advance, you should still allow room for spontaneity. Dressing up as a firefighter was not part of the plan, but it was the best part of the session.

Chaos

Generally, you’ll need to embrace chaos as part of the toddler photo session. Toddlers are emotionally volatile, and the session may take many twists and turns. This is one of the reasons that I love lifestyle sessions. It easily allows for pauses, breaks, and spontaneity.

Go with the flow and don’t try to force anything. If you design the session for the toddler, then it should be fun. They should be happy, and it should be the perfect environment for them. Even a studio can be fun.

Keep the parents informed, but don’t feel the need to explain things to the toddler. You don’t even need to tell the toddler it’s a photo session. If it’s a lifestyle or documentary session, just let them be themselves.

How to Plan and Pull-Off a Toddler Photo Session

Creativity

Use many creative elements with your photography. Go for a variety of angles, close-ups, storytelling, wide angles, and beautiful light.

Football mascot photo session.

Part of your creativity is in choosing the environment and backgrounds for your session. I used a combination of background, composition, and moment for these two photos. The moment began with him confronting his opponent’s mascot and ended with him making a run for it.

Beware of yourself

You’ve got to be able to handle any problems that arise and still get great photos.

Before a toddler photo session, I do some reflection. What could go wrong with this session? Has anything gone wrong in the past? What is the worst that could go wrong? But most importantly, how will I respond? I make this decision in advance so that I don’t have to think in the moment. Do the thinking while things are calm, and you’ll make better decisions.

Consider answering these questions in advance:

  • What if the toddle is grumpy?
  • Suppose the parents are overbearing?
  • What if the kid throws mud at my camera or turns the firehose in my direction?
  • What if the toddler gets hurt?
session at beach.

As much as we all love nature, there are many harmful elements out there for toddlers. Keep parents close by and make sure they are comfortable with where their toddler is exploring.

3. The edit

When it comes to the edit, be ruthless in narrowing down your photos. Most photographers are happy if they keep 10% of their photos from a session. Some are satisfied with less. Don’t be afraid to cut, cut, cut!

Your final selection of photos should have lots of variety to it.

  • Close-ups
  • Full scene
  • Details

When it comes to touching up your photos, I recommend a simple edit with Lightroom or a similar program.

How do you know what to do with a photo? Keep these two principals in mind. When it comes to editing you’re either:

  1. Putting the finishing touches on your photo (crop, exposure adjustments, etc.)
  2. Or you’re trying to fix a photo that didn’t turn out
Toddler-photo-session-Before and after edit with Lightroom

The main things I did with this RAW photo is I cropped it and warmed it up with the temperature slider.

Generally, I would say if you need to do a heavy amount of fixing or editing of a photo, you should just leave it out of the final collection. If you constantly have to fix certain elements of your photos in editing, this is a good clue as to what you need to learn to improve your photography. Editing should be about finishing touches, with fixing as a last resort.

A perfect session for you and toddlers

Follow your nature as a creative person and the nature of the toddler you are photographing. Design everything for the toddler, and you’ll have an amazingly creative toddler photo session that will leave everyone wanting more.

Do you have any other tips for a successful toddler photo session? Share with us in the comments below!

 

toddler-photo-session

The post How to Plan and Pull-Off a Toddler Photo Session appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


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