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Hands-on with the Nikon Z50 and new DX Z-mount lenses

10 Oct

Hands-on with the new Nikon Z50 and kit lenses

The much-rumored Z50 is here. Nikon’s latest Z-series camera, the third in the lineup, features an APS-C sensor and is being launched alongside two DX-format kit zooms. Reminiscent in many ways of a downsized Z6, the Z50 should (Nikon hopes) open up the Z-mount to more enthusiast and entry-level photographers.

As you can see in this image, the Z50 is a small camera, with a relatively sparse top-plate, but generously-sized grip. Lacking the upper status screen included on the Z6 and Z7, the biggest control on the top of the Z50 is a large, non-locking exposure mode dial. A simple lever allows for quick switching between still and movie capture modes.

21MP sensor

The 20.9MP sensor inside the Z50 is based on the familiar BSI-CMOS sensor inside the D500. ISO sensitivity spans 100-51,200, and based on our initial (JPEG) shooting, it’s capable of excellent image quality. One major change compared to the Z6 and Z7 though – the sensor in the Z50 is not stabilized.

This shot shows the Fn1 and Fn2 buttons at the 8 o’clock position on the large Z-mount. These are the same buttons – in the same place – as the Z6 and Z7, and fall naturally under your fingers when the camera is held in a shooting position.

No IBIS

It remains to be seen whether future DX-format Z-series cameras will offer in-body stabilization, but for now, Z50 owners will have to rely on the VR built into the two new kit lenses: the Z DX 16-50mm F3.5-6.3 VR and the Z DX 50-250mm F4.5-6.3 VR. More on these lenses later.

209-point PDAF system

While the Z50’s sensor might be closely related to that found inside the D500, there is one major difference, which is the addition of on-sensor phase-detection autofocus pixels. The Z50 offers a 209-point autofocus system covering approximately 87% of the frame horizontally and 85% vertically, which operates in essentially the same way as the equivalent systems on the full-frame Z6 and Z7.

As such, autofocus performance is generally very good, with a decent amount of control, and includes useful face/eye-detection features. We continue to miss the speed and ease with which the company’s DSLRs can initiate AF tracking but, although we can’t draw any definitive conclusions, autofocus speed when the Z50 is paired with its new DX lenses seems responsive.

Weather-sealed magnesium-alloy body

The Z50 is positioned as a midrange ILC, but build quality appears excellent, with a magnesium alloy body and extensive weather-sealing around the major potential points of dust and moisture ingress. Nikon is at pains to point out however that buyers of the Z50 should not expect quite the same level of environmental sealing as the Z6 and Z7, because unlike those cameras, the Z50 features a pop-up flash.

Speaking of the flash, some enthusiasts might be disappointed to note that while handy for fill light or social snaps, unlike higher-end Nikon DSLRs, the built-in flash on the Z50 cannot be used as a ‘commander’ to control the company’s off-camera strobes.

3.2in tilting touch-sensitive LCD

The 1.04M-dot LCD screen on the rear of the Z50 is touch-sensitive, and can be tilted up for waist-level shooting. The experience of using the Z50’s screen is essentially the same as the Z6 and Z7. It’s easy to position your desired autofocus point by touch, and swiping between images, and tapping to zoom in / out is fast and intuitive. You don’t get quite as much resolution as you do on the Z6/7, though, which offer 2.1M-dots on their screens.

A tilting screen like this isn’t as versatile as a fully articulated design (especially when composing images vertically) but it’s fine for waist-level shooting, video, and for composing images from awkward low angles. It can also flip downward 180 degrees, below the base of the camera, for selfies or vlogging.

2.36 million-dot OLED viewfinder

The Z50’s 2.36M-dot OLED electronic viewfinder is very nice. Crisp and contrasty, it’s up there with the best in its class, while (understandably) falling short of the 3.69M-dot resolution of its full-frame Z6 and Z7 cousins. This shot also gives you a view of the permanent touch-sensitive magnification and ‘DISP’ labels just outside of the main screen area on the rear of the camera.

Hidden in this shot is the top control dial, which falls naturally under your thumb when the camera is held in a shooting position. The control logic of the Z50 is extremely similar to that of the Z6 and Z7, which in turn were natural evolutions of established Nikon ergonomics going back several generations. In fact, if you imagine a Z6 crossed with a D5600, that’s pretty much the Z50.

Card slot and battery

The single UHS-II card slot is accessed via the battery door in the base of the Z50’s grip. The battery itself is a new type: EN-EL25, which Nikon claims is rated for around 300 shots (per CIPA). As always, we’d expect most people’s normal use to yield many more shots than this figure. The bad news for some existing Nikon users is that (for now) the Z50 is the only camera that uses this battery.

Continuous shooting rate

The Z50 is a snappy little camera, offering a maximum framerate of 11 fps with autofocus. This places it among the fastest cameras in its class, and we’re keen to test how well the PDAF system performs while shooting fast action once we get hold of a reviewable camera.

Video

No surprise the Z50 offers 4K video shooting (we’d be more surprised at this point if an enthusiast-focused ILC didn’t) and its feature set is reasonably solid, given the Z50’s market positioning. 4K/24p is offered, which will keep cinephiles happy, but there’s a fairly heavy 1.5X crop and while there is a microphone input, Nikon has not found room for a headphone audio monitoring socket.

While probably not an everyday shooting mode, Full HD at 120 fps is nice to have, and offers a lot of fun creative possibilities.

Creative filters and in-camera editing

Nikon has been offering Picture Control modes for a very long time, and the Z50 offers a wide range of profiles and picture effects, to help you get that little bit closer to the Instagram experience, right in the camera. For Raw shooters, it is also possible to edit NEF files in-camera, and save edited JPEGs directly to your memory card.

Connectivity

The Z50 is equipped with built-in WiFi + Bluetooth, and can be controlled via Nikon’s Snapbridge app. This shot also shows the physical ports, which are (from top to bottom) 3.5mm audio in, USB (2.0) and HDMI. The Z50 can be charged via USB, but cannot be powered over this port. And don’t worry – there’s a proper battery charger included in the box.

Nikkor Z DX 16-50mm F3.5-6.3 VR kit lens

The Z50 is being launched alongside two ‘DX’ APS-C lenses. This is the Nikkor Z DX 16-50mm F3.5-6.3 VR, which is a very compact 24-75mm equivalent standard zoom. Like several of Nikon’s zoom lenses, the 16-50mm is collapsible, and in its ‘locked’ position (shown here) it barely protrudes further than the Z50’s grip, making the camera genuinely pocketable, assuming you’re wearing a jacket.

Nikkor Z DX 16-50mm F3.5-6.3 VR kit lens

Here’s the 16-50mm in its unlocked state. Zooming is mechanical, and the other ring is customizable, and can be used for direct control over focus, aperture or exposure compensation (etc.). Optical construction comprises nine elements in seven groups including one extra low dispersion element and four aspherical elements.

According to Nikon, the lens’ Vibration Reduction system is effective up to 4.5EV.

DX 50-250mm F4.5-6.3 VR kit lens

The second lens released alongside the Z50 is the DX 50-250mm F4.5-6.3 VR, which covers an equivalent focal length range of 75-375mm. Optically it is comprised of 16 elements in 12 groups, including one extra low dispersion element. Nikon claims that its built-in VR system is effective up to 5 stops.

The Nikon Z50 will be available soon for $ 859 body only, $ 999 with the 16-50mm zoom or
$ 1349 for the dual lens kit, with the 16-50mm and 50-250mm. What do you make of it? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nikon announces Z-mount lens roadmap

10 Oct

Nikon has announced a roadmap for its Z-mount mirrorless system. All of the lenses are full-frame, with one zoom being the exception.

The roadmap adds a 20mm F1.8, 50mm F1.2 and 105mm ‘Micro’ lens to the high-end ‘S-Line’ of lenses. There will also be a 28 and 40mm lens as part of what Nikon calls a ‘Compact Prime’ series and a non-S 60mm Micro close-up lens.

Nikon’s Z-mount lens roadmap gives a good indication of the company’s plans for the system.

S-line zooms

The ‘S’ line will also gain a 14-24mm F2.8 zoom and a 70-200mm F2.8 for sports and photojournalism. These will be accompanied by a 24-105mm S-line zoom and, while no aperture range has been specified, this is grouped with the existing F4 zooms, An S-line 100-400mm lens is also listed.

Other zooms

A non-S 24-200mm travel zoom and 200-600mm zoom complete the full-frame offerings, giving a pretty comprehensive picture of what Nikon has planned for the Z-mount.

On the APS-C side of things, there will be a 18-140mm (equivalent to 27-210mm), as with the compact primes, no maximum aperture is specified.

No timescales are given for fulfilling the lenses on the roadmap and, as is normal, a footnote indicates that the plans may change without notice.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Shutterstock’s free image editor gets new ‘Remove Background’ tool

10 Oct

Shutterstock Editor, the stock image company’s free online image-editing web app, has added a new feature called Remove Background. With this tool, users can easily remove the background from images in order to isolate the subject, making it possible to incorporate the extracted element or person into other designs.

Shutterstock Editor offers users access to custom canvas sizes, such as ones intended for ebook covers and Instagram posts; users can also create their own custom canvas size. Images can be uploaded from an online destination using a URL or from the user’s computer, plus there’s the option of selecting an image from Shutterstock’s collection. The web app also offers access to free design templates.

The new Remove Background tool, which is found in the UI’s ‘Image Tools’ section, simply requires the user to select the areas of the image they want to keep and the areas they want to remove. When tested, the entire selection and removal process was very fast and accurate. The feature is live for all users now.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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New FCC database filing confirms forthcoming DJI Mavic Mini

10 Oct
This image, and the photo below, leaked on PhotoRumors two months ago.

Early this morning, two new products from the world’s leading drone manufacturer, DJI, were listed with the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). After being rumored for the past two months, the Mavic Mini is now officially on the FCC’s site. While the second filing is not labeled with a product name, it’s likely going to be a remote controller for the compact, foldable drone. The filings are FCC ID SS3-MT1SS51905 and FCC ID SS3-MR1SS51905.

It has been well over a year since DJI released a consumer-grade drone. The last two major products from the Chinese manufacturer are the Mavic 2 Pro and Mavic 2 Zoom, announced at the end of August 2018. The timing for releasing the Mavic Mini isn’t random. Not only is the Holiday season upon us, competing American manufacturer Skydio recently starting accepting reservations for its compact Skydio 2 drone. Shortly after GoPro announced its Karma drone, in September 2016, DJI responded by introducing the original Mavic Pro at a swanky event.

DroneDJ was the first to report on the Mavic Mini after photos were leaked online two months ago. One notable feature that will make it worth the purchase for some consumers is the rumored weight.

In the United States, a drone must be registered with the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) if it weighs more than 250 grams (0.55 pounds) and less than 25kg (55 pounds). If speculation is spot on, the Mavic Mini will weigh 245 grams at takeoff negating the need for registration. Rules and regulations are more lenient in other countries where a drone weighs less as well.

Here are a few of the rumored specs for the Mavic Mini:

  • The DJI Mavic Mini will offer a remote since controlling a drone with a smartphone is a less than ideal experience.
  • It will have a flight time of up to 18 minutes.
  • Unlike the Spark, which is similar in size, it will have obstacle avoidance sensors.
  • The drone will have a range of 3.1 miles (5 km) and a top speed of 31mph (50 km/hr).
  • The drone will have a 12MP, 1/2.3” CMOS camera that can shoot up to 4K/30p, 2.7K/60p, and 1080p/120p video.
  • The expected retail price should be around $ 399 and the release date is expected soon to coincide with the Holiday season.

DJI owns a majority stake in camera company Hasselblad. There isn’t any word on whether they’ll incorporate their technology into the Mini’s camera as they did with the Mavic 2 Pro. The latter is currently the only drone in the company’s product line that features a camera with Hasselblad’s signature Natural Color Solution. DJI requested a short-term secrecy cycle of 180 days in a Confidentiality Letter from June 25th. While that gives them until late December to release the Mavic Mini, the Holiday season may expedite the release as soon as this coming month.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon plans to add 24p recording to select EOS, PowerShot cameras via firmware update

09 Oct

The people have spoken and Canon has listened. In an email sent to DPReview Canon says it ‘plans to introduce 24p mode (23.98fps) for movie recording via a series of future firmware updates for select [EOS and PowerShot] models.’

According to the email, the move comes ’In response to feedback from our customers about some of our recently launched EOS and PowerShot models.’ Canon specifically says the first models to receive the firmware update with support for 24p (23.98 fps) shooting modes will be the EOS 90D and the EOS RP at the end of October. ‘The PowerShot G7X Mark III and G5X Mark II will follow at the end of 2019 and the EOS M6 Mark II during the first half of 2020,’ reads the email.

Once the firmware is released for the cameras, each supported model will be able to shoot 24p (23.98 fps) in 4K and Full HD.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: DJI Osmo Mobile 3 smartphone gimbal

09 Oct

DJI Osmo Mobile 3
$ 119 | dji.com

Over the past few years we’ve seen massive leaps in the quality of video produced by smartphones, allowing content creators to lean more heavily than ever on the devices in their pockets. Whether you’re a vlogger, journalist, budding cinematographer or just a parent who wants to post great videos on Facebook, chances are good that you’re part of this trend.

However, to get the best results, it still helps to use some third party tools. Enter the DJI Osmo Mobile 3, the third generation of DJI’s gimbal stabilization system for smartphones, which can help take your production quality up a level – particularly if you’re the kind of person who shoots while moving around. Let’s take a look at it in more detail.

Key features/specifications

  • Foldable design
  • Hyperlapse and timelapse functions
  • Active tracking
  • Trigger control
  • Bluetooth connection
  • 15-hour battery life

The Osmo Mobile 3 is a drastic overhaul of the company’s predecessor, the Osmo Mobile 2. It joins a lineup of increasingly sophisticated smartphone gimbals from competitors like Freefly, Zhiyun, Gudsen, and others.

Design

The biggest update to the Osmo Mobile 3 is the overall physical layout. Though DJI took most of its design cues from the crowdfunded Snoppa Atom gimbal, the company fundamentally changed two aspects of the look and function of the device.

The first of these is that the Osmo Mobile 3 folds in on itself into a more compact, transportable size. It only uses one joint to achieve this, and all the gimbal’s other axes remain in place. The folded gimbal is slightly larger than an average person’s hand – if detached from the tripod base that DJI ships with the gimbal’s combo package. Once I unfolded the arm and figured out the orientation, I wasn’t bothered by anything related to this design change; it seems a useful update that makes the gimbal more compact.

The foldable design is made possible by the second, and perhaps more notable, change to the design: the sideways orientation of the phone-holding arm. DJI has placed this arm to the right of the device rather than behind it, bucking the typical design shared by most other smartphone gimbals on the market.

The Osmo Mobile 3’s folding design makes it compact for travel (seen here in its included case).

This change will likely require a bit of muscle-memory adjustment for gimbal operators used to the more standard back-arm design. The difference became most apparent for me when I tried to get shots close to the ground. I was used to leaning the gimbal forward and away from my body to achieve this, but that didn’t work with the Osmo Mobile 3, it must be leaned to the side for a similar effect.

A common complaint about the Osmo Mobile 2 was that the arm location blocked access to the phone’s headphone jack and charging port. The sideways arm on the Osmo Mobile 3 fixes those problems, now allowing access to both. A tradeoff, however, is that the phone needs to be balanced each time it’s placed in the gimbal. The Osmo Mobile 2’s use of counterweights meant that once the user balanced their mobile device, they could take it on and off without needing to adjust each time. The Osmo Mobile 3 doesn’t have this option, though balancing the phone along a single axis seemed to be a pretty quick process.

The button layout on the Osmo Mobile 3 is unchanged from its predecessor. The sideways orientation of the gimbal arm is a change from the Osmo Mobile 2.
A new front trigger makes it easy to switch between sport modes and free the gimbal from responsiveness. The gimbal allows for both USB A and C attachments and can charge a mobile device while in use.

DJI also added a trigger to the back of the gimbal handle. This is a welcome addition. It allows access to useful functions in a place that makes ergonomic sense. Depending on whether it’s clicked or held down, the trigger enables ‘sport mode’, a setting that makes the gimbal more responsive to your movements. It can also pause the gimbal’s responsiveness entirely, helpful to maintain framing.

In use

The experience of using the Osmo Mobile 3 cannot be separated from its app, DJI Mimo. This app is also used on other DJI devices and it’s quite intuitive. It connects to the mobile device via Bluetooth, eliminating further cables. The Mimo app introduces manual camera controls to your phone, essential for creating more professional-looking content. It also allows for other creative camera modes.

The Osmo Mobile 3 complete with phone displaying the Mimo App interface.

DJI updated its Active Track software on the Osmo Mobile 3, which keeps the camera trained on a subject selected by the user. I’ve found two ways to effectively use this feature. In the first, the gimbal stays stationary and the camera pans and tilts to keep the subject in frame. This could be a useful feature for vloggers and self-filmers as they move at slow to medium speeds throughout the frame. This tracking does not do as well with fast-moving subjects however.

The second way I’ve found active track useful is by training the camera on a subject and moving the gimbal itself. This eliminates the need to track your subject with hand movements or the joystick and can introduce cinematic camera movement along multiple axes.

DJI’s Active Track feature is effective at automatically tracking and following subjects – as long as they don’t move too quickly. (Captured with an iPhone 8)

The Mimo app also offers panorama photo modes, gesture controls, timelapse modes, and an amazingly impressive hyperlapse feature. The combination of the Mimo app’s software stabilization with the Osmo Mobile 3 gimbal stabilization results in a final video that makes me seriously regret the many hours I’ve spent moving tripod legs inches at a time to create a similar effect.

Despite these cool features, there are a few elements of the Osmo Mobile 3 that have me particularly disgruntled. The first is the rounded base and forward-leaning handle. This makes it impossible to stand the gimbal up on a flat surface without using the tripod included in the more expensive combo package, perhaps an intentional move by DJI. The tripod does hold the gimbal upright, but it also adds significantly to the device’s footprint – one that’s marketed as small and portable.

The Osmo Mobile 3’s hyperlapse feature works effectively. (Captured with an iPhone 8)

Another annoyance I’ve found is that the Osmo Mobile 3 doesn’t allow full 360-degree rotation as the gimbal will reach an end point while spinning. There is also no option to toggle between the phone’s forward and rear-facing cameras while recording in the Mimo app, though this can perhaps be addressed in a future software update.

Is it right for you?

Overall, the Osmo Mobile 3 is a fun new upgrade to the Osmo Mobile line that can be useful for certain applications. To me, one of the most obvious uses would be live-streaming. With the addition of an external microphone, I foresee the Osmo Mobile 3 making waves in live news, conferences, vlogging, and more, where a phone is the easiest way to distribute high-quality, live video. DJI does need to fix some issues here, though, like not being able to switch between rear and forward cameras while recording within the Mimo app.

The gimbal would also be great for those who want to up the quality of their vacation or family home videos without shelling out for a new camera (and possibly new camera gimbal).

For smartphone gimbals like the Osmo Mobile 3 to get more popular with serious filmmakers, however, I think we still need a drastic shrinking of size. The biggest draw of shooting on a phone is that it’s always with you. Once everything is set up the Osmo Mobile 3 with a smartphone is only slightly smaller than its mirrorless equivalent, which generates an exponentially better image.

For the rest of us, however, the Osmo Mobile 3 is a fun device that provides effective stabilization and software tools, and one that doesn’t require you to be an expert filmmaker to use.

What we like:

  • Folding design significantly reduces size
  • Gimbal can charge mobile device
  • Impressive hyperlapse function
  • Active track works well for a product at this price point
  • Arm design allows microphone attachments (unlike Osmo Mobile 2)

What we’d like to see improved:

  • Gimbal needs to be balanced each time phone is attached
  • Base of gimbal doesn’t allow device to be set down without a tripod
  • Sideways gimbal arm orientation takes getting used to

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Create Amazing Sunrise Photos with these Easy Lightroom Editing Tips

09 Oct

The post Create Amazing Sunrise Photos with these Easy Lightroom Editing Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Sunrise pictures can be tricky. Even the most dedicated photographer can get frustrated with sub-par results, often with foregrounds that are too dark or a nice round sun that appears white and washed-out. While things like timing and technique are critical for taking good sunrise pictures, another element is the editing. With a few Lightroom sunrise photo editing tips, you can take a boring, bland sunrise and turn it into a work of art.

Create Amazing Sunrise Photos with these Easy Lightroom Editing Tips

To get a good finished photo you need a solid starting point. That means your initial sunrise photo needs to meet a few basic parameters:

  • It must be shot in RAW.
  • The sky should be properly exposed, which means the foreground will be dark.
  • It’s helpful to shoot with low ISO values to give you as much headroom as possible when editing.

If you start with a sunrise photo that meets these parameters, you can use a few sliders and options in Lightroom to bring out the colors and brilliance that you saw with your eyes when you shot it.

To illustrate this process, I’m going to walk through an example of sunrise photo editing. The picture below is a RAW file straight out of my camera.

sunrise-photo-editing-tips

Original RAW file straight from my camera. Nikon D750, 50mm, f/4, 1/180 second, ISO 320.

This picture might not look very impressive, but that’s the point. If I had exposed for the foreground, the dark areas would be bright and natural. The trade-off is that parts of the sky would be so bright they would be unrecoverable in Lightroom.

Everything needed for a beautiful sunrise photo is fully intact in this dark, underexposed image. I just need to coax out the colors with a little sunrise photo editing.

Step 1: Shadows

The first thing to do is brighten the foreground by adjusting the shadows. Locate the Basic Panel in the Lightroom Develop module and push the Shadows slider all the way to the right.

Image: Boosting the shadows will make the dark foreground a lot more usable.

Boosting the shadows will make the dark foreground a lot more usable.

This makes the foreground much brighter. It is very close to how the scene looked when I shot the picture. I was on my bike, and there’s no way I would have ridden to work that morning in the complete pitch black!

sunrise-photo-editing-tips

With the shadows lifted, the foreground is brighter. You can also see that there is plenty of image data captured in the RAW file to work with.

Step 2: White balance and graduated filters

After bringing up the shadows, the next step is to tweak the colors of the sky and foreground. The graduated filter is perfect for this since your edits are applied gradually, as the name implies.

Image: Graduated Filters are ideal for sunrise photos.

Graduated Filters are ideal for sunrise photos.

The values you use for this will depend greatly on the look you want in your picture. For a good starting point, I recommend lowering the Temperature, raising the Whites, and increasing the Saturation. Feel free to tweak the other settings to your liking, but I recommend being a little conservative at this point. You can always go back and change things later. If you have objects protruding into your sky like trees, buildings, or mountains, you can use the Range Mask option. Then your edits are only applied to the sky and nothing else.

Image: When using a Graduated Filter on the sky, I like to lower the color temperature and increase...

When using a Graduated Filter on the sky, I like to lower the color temperature and increase saturation. You might find other tweaks to be helpful as well.

After adjusting the sky, use a second Graduated Filter to perform a similar operation on the foreground. Click the New button at the top of the Graduated Filter panel, and click-and-drag on the picture to apply your filter.

Move the Temperature slider to the right so the foreground is a little warmer. Then adjust other options like Exposure, Texture, and Sharpness as needed.

Image: A second Graduated Filter in the opposite direction can be useful for giving the foreground a...

A second Graduated Filter in the opposite direction can be useful for giving the foreground a warmer white balance.

There’s no correct way to do this next step because everyone has unique taste and preferences. I used the following values on the image above, but your results will vary depending on your picture.

Image: When applying a second Graduated Filter to the foreground, it can be useful to edit some othe...

When applying a second Graduated Filter to the foreground, it can be useful to edit some other parameters as well, especially Exposure and Shadows.

Step 3: Crop the picture

Some will debate the exact stage in the process where you need to crop your picture. Others will say that a good photographer should use what comes out of the camera and never crop anything! I say it’s your picture and if you want to crop, go right ahead. I recommend cropping after your basic adjustments are in place. Those operations can bring out things formerly hidden and give you a better sense of how you really want to crop the image.

In the image I’m working with for this example, I don’t like the “Speed Limit 35” sign on the right side. If I crop that out, then I need also to re-frame the picture, so the sun is in the middle.

sunrise-photo-editing-tips

You can use cropping to get the dimensions and proportions of your picture just right.

Step 4: General Color Adjustments

After making your initial set of adjustments, and cropping the picture to your liking, it’s time to head to the HSL/Color panel to tweak the individual colors of the sunrise. Bring up the Saturation level of orange, blue, and red while also adjusting the Hue and Luminance to get just the right look. As before, be careful not to go overboard since too much tweaking makes your picture look unnatural.

For the picture below, I adjusted the Hue and Saturation of Blue by +20 each, and the Saturation of Orange by 14.

Image: Adjusting the blues and oranges can really bring out some of the vivid colors of a sunrise pi...

Adjusting the blues and oranges can really bring out some of the vivid colors of a sunrise picture.

Image: Don’t overdo your adjustments or your image will look fake and over-saturated.

Don’t overdo your adjustments or your image will look fake and over-saturated.

Step 5: Detailed enhancements

As with cropping, some photographers have varying opinions on when to do this step while others skip it entirely. I like to do it near the end of the editing process after I have made my other adjustments. However, you might find it better utilized at an earlier phase. Head back to the Basic panel where everything began and fine-tune a couple of other sliders like Highlights, Whites, Texture, and even Exposure if you need to.

sunrise-photo-editing-tips

Final tweaks help put the finishing touches on your sunrise.

At this point, you’re really just putting the finishing touches on, almost like adding a pinch of salt or garlic powder to a pot of soup that’s ready to eat. I sometimes get lost down an image-editing rabbit hole at this step. I find myself endlessly tweaking the sliders in a vain attempt to chase perfection. If that happens to you, walk away from your computer for an hour. When you return, you may be pleasantly surprised at how good your picture looks, with no additional tweaking required.

Create Amazing Sunrise Photos with these Easy Lightroom Editing Tips

You can also use the Spot Removal tool to clean up dust or dirt on the lens as well as fix other imperfections. There are also several Sharpening options to make your sunrise a little more clear and crisp.

From good to great

As with most photo editing situations, your results will vary greatly depending on a variety of factors. I have found that this same process, with different degrees of adjustments to the sliders, works quite well for me. It would probably work as a good starting point for you too. Still, I encourage you to experiment and develop your own editing style over time.

For one more example of how this process can yield good results, I started with the following RAW file. I shot this picture just as the sun was coming up in rural Nebraska.

sunrise-photo-editing-tips

RAW file straight out of my camera. 50mm, f/8, 1/180 second, ISO 100. As with the other image at the top of this article, the original is severely underexposed but contains all the data needed when editing in Lightroom.

I used the exact same process described in this article to vastly improve the picture in less than two minutes.

sunrise-photo-editing-tips

Two minutes later and it’s been transformed into a frame-worthy midwestern sunrise.

I hope these sunrise photo editing tips help you achieve some epic photos!

I’d love to see some of your sunrise shots and hear about the editing process you use as well. Leave your thoughts, as well as any pictures you’d like to share, in the comments below.

 

sunrise-photo-editing-tips

The post Create Amazing Sunrise Photos with these Easy Lightroom Editing Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

09 Oct

The post Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.

Sony-A7r-IV-review

Having just purchased the Sony A7r III earlier this year, I didn’t expect to add another camera to my collection so quickly. Until… the Sony A7r IV announced it was on pre-order. Typically, I will not invest in yet another body unless something truly monumental comes about, and this was such a situation. The A7r IV is a piece of machinery unlike any other – and I don’t regret a single dime spent. This Sony A7r IV review will explain why.

Mirrorless versus Digital 

Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

By now, 2019, many photographers are well aware of mirrorless cameras invading the digital photography market. Just to refresh on some of the key differences in technology between DSLRs/SLRs and mirrorless cameras… 

Mirrorless cameras, as the name suggests, does not utilize a mirror to reflect the image to the viewfinder. The way that a digital camera works is that a mirror inside the camera reflects the light up to the optical viewfinder. This is also how you see the image before you take it.

In a mirrorless camera, the imaging sensor is exposed to light at all times. This gives you a digital preview of your image either on the rear LCD screen or an electronic viewfinder (EVF). This allows you to see exposure changes in real-time on a mirrorless camera. The lack of a mirror also aids in the camera’s size, allowing the mirrorless model to be smaller and lighter than a traditional DSLR.

DSLR aficionados don’t trust the digital viewfinder portrayal in mirrorless cameras as this is system-based, while the DSLR uses a practical application to show a true-to-life, through-the-lens optical viewfinder system. This uses a series of mirrors to reflect light to your eye. However, as a new mirrorless user, I can testify that the electronic viewfinder display is extremely accurate to the image I create when clicking the shutter button. 

In regards to quality, both can excel in optical quality, image sensors, technical aspects, and adeptness at shooting conditions. Both are equally spectacular, with each model having its own pros and cons (of course). It does come down a lot to personal choice.

Specifications

Sony-A7r-IV-review

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, let’s get back to the drool-worthy A7r IV. The specifications of this newest member to the Alpha line is what made me fall out of my seat and need to order this model.

And it has not disappointed.

A true feat of modern technology, it includes the following specs:

  • A whopping 61 MP, 35 mm full-frame Exmor R™ CMOS and enhanced processing system. This produces an image sized at 9504 x 6336. For landscape and commercial photographers, the a7r IV features a 240MP pixel-shift mode.
  • ISO 100–32000 (ISO numbers up from ISO 50 to ISO 102400 can be set as expanded ISO range.)
  • Fast Hybrid AF with Wide (567-points (phase-detection AF), 425-points (contrast-detection AF))/Zone/Center/Flexible Spot (S/M/L)/Expanded Flexible Spot/Tracking (Wide/Zone/Center/Flexible Spot (S/M/L)/Expanded Flexible Spot) The focus modes include AF-A (Automatic AF), AF-S (Single-shot AF), AF-C (Continuous AF), DMF (Direct Manual Focus), Manual Focus.
  • Eye-start AF, Lock-on AF [Still] Human (Right/Left Eye Select)/Animal, [Movie] Human (Right/Left Eye Select), AF micro adjustment, and predictive AF control. 
  • High-speed continuous shooting of up to 10fps12 with AF/AE tracking.
  • 5-axis image stabilization with 5.5-stop exposure advantage20.
  • 4K video in full-width and crop modes.
  • Dual card slots with simultaneous or consecutive recording.
  • Silent Shooting Mode.
  • You can operate the camera via newly supported wireless PC Remote functions via Wi-Fi.

Sony-A7r-IV-review

Much like the other models in the Alpha line, this camera is an E-mount that only accepts E-mount lenses (unless you use an adapter). The awesome thing about E-mount, though, is that many brands (alongside Sony) make lenses for it, including Zeiss, Sigma, and Tamron.

Build 

Sony-A7r-IV-review

I did not expect a redesign of the A7r IV body. Silly me! I expected a perfect replica of the A7r III with more advanced technology. In fact, the A7r IV has improved upon its predecessor’s body and ergonomics. They have changed the design, proving that Sony listened to photographer complaints and suggestions when redesigning this camera.

Firstly, the grip is different. Sony modified the contour, and the grip has deepened – for lack of a better term. I found it to be much more comfortable, and my hand cramped less during prolonged use (photographers, you know what I’m talking about here).

The camera grip reminded me of my large DSLRs rather than a mirrorless, and I liked that a lot. While I have small, feminine hands, I am sure this new grip design will work nicely with larger hands too.

Sony has also redesigned the buttons. They’re softer and “squishier” to the touch. There is also a redesigned joystick and an amended exposure compensation dial that now includes a lock button (thankfully!).

Sony-A7r-IV-review

A big change is the card slot door. The new card door no longer needs a lock lever. Just pull straight back like Canon and Nikon. This provides a much tighter seal as well. Oh, and speaking of cards…Slot 1 is now on the top, not backward like the A7r III (which constantly confused me).

The Sony A7r IV is sized at 5.07 x 3.8 x 3.05″/128.9 x 96.4 x 77.5 mm and 1.46 lb/665 g.

Ease of use 

Sony-A7r-IV-review

In my brain, Sony Alpha and ease-of-use are synonymous phrases. This camera is quick to set up, even simpler to use, and you can run off and play immediately when the battery is charged. The menu and settings are intended for professionals, but if you’ve been doing photography and understand how a camera works, figuring it out is quick.

I’ve heard complaints about the Sony menu, but I’ve personally not had any problems with it. I easily found everything I needed and do all of my adjustments within about 10 minutes.

This is coming from a Canon user that features an entirely different menu. 

I do wish the eye-tracking mode was an actual button on the camera as you can switch between Human subject or Animal subject. It would be convenient to have this as a button rather than having to dig into the menu to change this feature. I find myself continually changing it back and forth (being both a human and a pet photographer).

Autofocus, sharpness, and clarity 

Sony-A7r-IV-review

Just one word: phenomenal. 

I could end the review with just that one word and be satisfied. However, to go into detail…the autofocus is lightning sharp. Definitely the fastest autofocus of all of my cameras – and I have a lot of them! I find the autofocus to be even faster and more accurate than the A7r III – and that’s saying a lot, as the A7r III is very fast as well. 

I’ve captured dogs running – high speed – directly at my camera without even losing focus on their eyes for a second. That is how superb the eye-tracking mode is. I see a lot of use for this camera in sports photography if you have large enough cards to accommodate the 61-megapixels, of course! You can bring the camera down to 24-megapixels if needed, but that’s no fun.

Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

The predictive AI focus has truly revolutionized the way you can photograph subjects moving erratically or quickly, and I am living for it. This has made my job much easier with pets, or little humans that love to run away from mom!

In regards to sharpness and clarity, (while much of the final quality and look comes from the lens), in this case, the camera plays a big role. This is where the Sony mirrorless cameras begin to stand out significantly. The images are extremely sharp and clear. To some, maybe even artificially so. The look is very distinct. Professional photographers can quite easily pick out a Sony mirrorless photograph from the rest. The 61-megapixels show an immense amount of detail, excellent for commercial and detail work. 

Buffering

Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

Despite the enormous amount of megapixels, the A7R IV can still fire up to 10 frames-per-second with autofocus and autoexposure active. That’s impressive! The camera can keep at this for up to 68 compressed raw images.

Color rendering

Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

With vivid, vibrant, and deep colors, there is little editing I need to do with this camera. Even in low light, the colors tend to be quite true. The dynamic range is superb with 15-stops of dynamic range. I have been able to pull incredible details, colors, and information from darker images. 

Low light capability 

Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

The only gripe I have with this model is the low light capability is not improved over its preceding version. That doesn’t mean that the low light capability is bad – it’s just not better. For a camera that has improved in so many ways, I would have liked to see an even better low light sensor in this particular model.

However, the larger megapixel count does allow for significantly more manipulation, and it hasn’t phased me to take care of noise through a quick flick of the Noise slider in Lightroom. Ideally, it would have been nice not to need to do this.

With that said, I have not personally noticed worse noise at the same ISO levels, as some photographers have reported. The autofocus in low light is superb. It’s great for my concert photography endeavors, and even better than the firmware update on my A7r III.

Battery life 

Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

For battery life, my original frame of reference is my many Canon DSLR cameras. The 5D Mark IV, 5D Mark III, 7D Mark II, and 1Dx Mark II are the models I use. In my experience, Sony batteries are not nearly as powerful or long-lasting as Canon batteries. However, this makes sense, as the power necessary to operate a mirrorless tends to be more draining than the DSLRs due to the mirrorless cameras using a digital viewfinder and LCD display. 

When I purchased my first Sony camera, I went ahead and bought a second battery. The battery is the same as the one that the Sony A7r IV uses, so now I have two additional batteries for it. I am glad that I did because the battery does not last me all day like Canon cameras. I seldom end up switching to a second Canon battery. Even after shooting a dog agility trial for eight hours without turning the body off. On the Sony, I found myself switching the battery mid-day on all-day shoots.

It is key to note I am not using a battery grip. With a battery grip, the power lasts significantly longer. 

However, when comparing to Sony itself, the battery in the newer Alpha series cameras are significantly better and far more superb than previous models. The Sony NPFZ100 Z-Series Rechargeable Battery is no joke – far more powerful than the previous batteries used by the company. 

Final thoughts

Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera

Do you need the power of the Sony A7r IV? Generally, probably not. For specialty work? Absolutely. The specifications are very much overkill for the average photographer, but for those that have found a use for its tremendous amount of megapixels or the ease in which the AI focuses, this is absolutely a worthy investment.

It’s likely great enough to sell prior pieces of equipment in order to buy the A7r IV.

I work a lot in commercial photography, and this camera allows me to better produce commercial imagery for my corporate clients – something I couldn’t pass up. 

Would you like to own this camera? Why? Or are you lucky enough to have you tried the Sony A7r IV? What are your thoughts? Share with us in the comments! 

The post Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.


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DPReview TV: iPhone 11 Pro – what photographers may have missed

09 Oct

In this week’s episode, Chris is joined by our Science Editor Rishi Sanyal to take a closer look at some of the new photography features on the iPhone 11 and iPhone 11 Pro camera. Find out how some of the headline features like Night Mode perform, and learn about less-publicized photo features like the handy ‘Capture Outside of the Frame.’ With the Pixel 4 on the horizon, it’s just the beginning of more head-to-head comparisons of these powerful little cameras.

Be sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

  • Introduction
  • Autofocus
  • Lenses
  • Depth Maps
  • Wide Angle Portraits
  • 2X Lens Portraits
  • Dual Lens Reframing
  • In-Camera Editing
  • HDR OLED Display
  • Night Mode
  • Night Mode Disadvantages
  • iPhone 11 Pro vs XS
  • Night Mode vs. Pixel 3 Night Sight
  • Lens Limitations
  • Conclusions

Sample images from this episode

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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iPhone 11 Pro sample gallery (DPReview TV)

09 Oct

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Have a closer look at sample images from iPhone 11 Pro’s ultra-wide, standard and telephoto cameras featured in this week’s DPReview TV episode.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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