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Photographer David Burnett with his large-format, wooden camera was the real hero of today’s impeachment hearings

14 Nov

Photographer David Burnett (L), pictured in the press pack at today’s first public session of the ongoing impeachment hearings.

As diplomat William Taylor and State Department official George Kent took their seats in the House today to begin their public testimony, their entry was heralded by a noisy fluttering sound, as attendant photographers shot off hundreds of continuous frames on their Canon and Nikon DSLRs. But one man stood alone, among the fray: David Burnett, veteran, multi award-winning photographer, co-founder of ContactPressImages and large format film enthusiast.

The camera is an ‘Aero Liberator’ – Made by John Minnicks, the Liberator is a custom-made camera, which takes 4 x 5 plates. Judging by today’s footage of David using it, continuous shooting speed is limited to about one frame every five or six seconds.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fake it to Make it – Creating Convincing Photo Composites

14 Nov

The post Fake it to Make it – Creating Convincing Photo Composites appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

creating-convincing-photo-composites

Photo composites – it used to be said that “the camera never lies.”  We used terms like “photographic evidence,” and “photographic memory.” We believed whatever cameras captured were literal representations of fact depicting exactly what you would have observed had you been a witness to the scene.

Then, as editing techniques improved, photographers learned ways to enhance and even alter images.

Well before the days of digital photography, dodging, burning, airbrushing, layering of negatives, hand-painting, and a host of other “analog methods” were used by skilled photographers seeking to enhance and manipulate their images.  Sometimes this was in the name of art, other times to fool the viewer.

creating-convincing-photo-composites

“Father McKenzie wiping the dirt from his hands as he walks from the grave.” Assignment – depict a Beatles song title or lyric. I used a photo of a Vermont graveyard, made a shot of myself in the backyard, and with some creative compositing depicted the lyric from “Eleanor Rigby.”

Enter the world of digital photography and desktop editing programs.

It wasn’t long before we used the term “Photoshop” not only as a noun as the tradename of an editing program but as a verb describing the manipulation of an image using that tool.  When we now say an image has been “Photoshopped,” we are saying it has been digitally altered.  The camera might not lie, but the photographer can if they choose.

creating-convincing-photo-composites

It took a while to clone out all the footprints from this shot of Bandon Beach, Oregon.

The ethics of photo alteration

So, is altering your image a bad thing? Unethical?

I’d say that depends on your intent and the context in which you’re using the image. We’ve all heard the term “fake news.” If you are a photojournalist whose job it is to depict a scene truthfully, then the rest of this article is not for you. Move along… “creative photo editing” is totally taboo for you. Enough said.

For the rest of us, is photo manipulation acceptable? How much? What kind? Under what circumstances?

Let’s come back to those questions a little later after we’ve looked at some kinds of photo “enhancements.”

Fake it to Make it - Creating Convincing Photo Composites

creating-convincing-photo-composites

A balloon over Boise, Idaho landmarks. One is composited the other a straight shot. Can you spot the fake?

Bad magic

Have you ever had the misfortunate of watching a really bad magic show, the kind where the unskilled magician clearly doesn’t know his craft and the illusions are obvious? You know, without question, there really was something up his sleeve? Bad photo manipulation is like bad magic; neither should be performed for an audience.

If your techniques aren’t convincing, if the substituted sky doesn’t look right for the scene or the person composited into the group shot looks like you cut him out and pasted him onto the photo, you might not be ready to perform your photo magic. Learn how to do the “trick.” Practice, practice some more and show the result to a single critic. When you finally pass muster, only then show your creation to the masses.

SOOC?

Most of us do at least some standard photo editing. I always smile at those photographers who say with pride their images are “Straight-Out-Of-Camera” (SOOC), unedited. That they always “get it right in the camera.” Really?

Unless you’re making only .jpg images (where the camera itself is doing some editing using the built-in .jpg algorithm), you have a Raw image that needs at least basic editing even to be presentable.

Sure, make the best exposure you can in the camera, frame your shot so no cropping will be needed. Pick a white balance appropriate for the scene – those are all good habits. But having to edit your shot to bring out its best? – That’s only logical, IMHO.

creating-convincing-photo-composites

I had nice shots of a storm over a wheatfield and a good windmill silhouette. Creative photo composite at work.

Creative photo composites

Now we get to what is clearly photo manipulation, the creation of an image from multiple pieces. This is the assembling of a final photo composite from separate shots carefully crafted to make something better than you could make with a single exposure.

Do it well, and you can make scenes that depict your creative vision. Create things of beauty that never were but should have been; landscapes with great clouds, gorgeous sunsets, or maybe portraits done in fields of flowers. Do it well, and people will marvel over your creation, unaware of your magic. Do it poorly, however, and you’ll wind up with a Frankenstein monster, a badly-stitched horror assembled from unmatched pieces and parts.

So let’s look at some things to consider when creating convincing photo composites.

Image: I think the scale looks correct here, but a pilot might say a jet wouldn’t come in like...

I think the scale looks correct here, but a pilot might say a jet wouldn’t come in like this on final approach. Both planes are composited into the sunset shot.

Light and shadow

Let’s use an example where we might add a person to a scene they were not originally in.

You have the image of the scene, and you have a separate image of the person. The first question to ask yourself is, does the light direction match? Look at where the light and shadows fall in both images. If the light in the person image is coming from the left, the light in the background scene must come from the left too. Fail to check this, and even the untrained observer will look at your photo composite image and know something isn’t right, even if they can’t put their finger on it.

Sometimes you can flip the person or the background image so the light direction matches; it depends on the scenes you’re working with. Other times you’ll have to look for a different background with a better match.

creating-convincing-photo-composites

The scale may not be correct, but creative compositing is a new fun way to play with your grandson.Pay close attention to the direction and quality of shadows. Compositing images where the light in one piece is harsh with hard shadows and the other where the light is brighter, darker, softer, or in some other way different will be a giveaway of something fishy.

Sometimes you might have to add a shadow manually. Say you’re adding an image of a car to another image of a road. Consider where the shadow of the car would fall relative to the light in the scene. Then blend in some shadows if necessary to make a more convincing photo composite.

Angle

The camera angle and focal length of the lenses used to make the separate shots should match as closely as possible if you want to make convincing photo composites.

A high or low angle background with a differing angle composite overlay isn’t going to look right. This even applies to sky substitutions.

If you want to make photo composites of a landscape and change out the sky for perhaps one that has a nice sunset or better clouds, take a look at the angle of both shots and the focal length of the lenses used.

You’ll be able to tell if something just doesn’t look right.

creating-convincing-photo-composites

A gray rainy day at the Portland Head Lighthouse in Maine. The lighthouse needed a light beam, no? Easy to add one. Convincing? You tell me.

Color

Sometimes this can be the toughest one in getting good convincing photo composites. Images at different times in different locations are almost guaranteed to have slightly different white balances. Mix a cooler piece into a warmer scene, one where the tint is slightly different, or other subtle differences exist, and once again, your viewer will detect that card up your sleeve.

See if you can set a white balance in Lightroom for your base image and then, using the Sync feature, apply that same white balance to your inserted image. Then take both into Photoshop for your compositing work.

Sometimes the best option for avoiding a fight with color differences is to avoid color altogether and go monochrome with your image. A monochrome composite is far easier to pull off than a color one. It’s a good place for beginning “photo magicians” to start.

Image: The moon was in the original shot, but tiny. I enlarged it a bit, but not so much as to be un...

The moon was in the original shot, but tiny. I enlarged it a bit, but not so much as to be unbelievable.

Scale

Pay attention to match the relative size of images in your photo composites. Unless you’re trying to make the model in your shot look like a fairy on that forest log, matching size counts.

The student who missed the group shot of his class, but you later composite him in, probably won’t appreciate it if you make him look like he has a giant head relative to the others in the shot.

Whatever multiple pieces you use to make your image, consider how their relative sizes match.

Image: Fake moon composited in? Not this time. This was a telephoto shot which made the already larg...

Fake moon composited in? Not this time. This was a telephoto shot which made the already large full moon look even bigger.

Anything funny here?

After working to create a convincing photo composite, it can be hard to be objective. You’ve worked hard to get it just right but sometimes may have misgivings about whether everything looks natural.

Or it could be the other way; you’re convinced you’ve created the perfect composite, but have overlooked what to someone else is obvious fakery. This is the time to bring in someone else, someone who has no idea what you’ve been working on, to look at your creation.

Simply ask, “How’s this look?”

Don’t immediately tip them that you did something to the image – see if they detect anything. If they don’t, drill a little deeper.

“See anything unusual?” Pay attention to their answers.

If this is someone who knows your skills, they may suspect you switched out the sky, put that cute bunny in the forest scene, or digitally shaved some pounds from the model. However, even then, they should be able to tell you if your creation is convincing.

Because you can…

The second part of that saying, “…doesn’t always mean you should.”  Or as Uncle Ben told Peter Parker, (aka Spiderman), “With great power comes great responsibility.”

With practice, you may become highly skilled at photo composites. Alter a photo, replace the sky, make it jaw-droppingly beautiful, and no one thinks twice. Even fellow photographers marvel over the sunsets you always seem to catch, the great light, the pristine beaches with no footprints, litter, or people. They chalk up your beautiful images to stellar photo skills, hard work, sacrifice, and a healthy dose of good luck. They don’t realize you made your own luck, as well as that incredible ocean sunrise, with creative photo compositing.

Until one day, the truth comes out…

You’re just an average photographer but a great Photoshop artist.

One guy who understands where to draw the line is noted landscape photographer, Nick Page. I once had a chance to interview Nick on the subject of swapping skies in landscape photography. In addition to being an exceptional landscape photographer, Nick is also a gifted editor. If anyone could fool you with a creative composite, Nick could do so easily.

He could, but he doesn’t.

Image: He could, but he doesn’t. His amazing photos are the real deal. Photo by/courtesy of Ni...

He could, but he doesn’t. His amazing photos are the real deal. Photo by/courtesy of Nick Page.

“With my Landscape photography, I have drawn the line in the sand, (in my head anyway), that I will not composite or swap skies.  For me this comes down to two things,” Nick said.

“My favorite part of landscape photography is trying to chase the light, and have that great light line up with a great location.  This takes tons of planning and effort, and I love that aspect of photography.  If I were to start dropping skies into my landscape photos, I would be robbing myself of the joy of “the Chase.”

And the second thing?  “I want people to know and believe the photos I take are real,” said Nick. “So many of the photographers I follow, I can’t always trust that amazing light they always have in their photos.  Yes, it is an art, but I really enjoy the extra effort of trying to get it for real, and I want people to know and trust that I put in that extra effort.”

Image: Creative photo compositing is a fun way to help tell the story.

Creative photo compositing is a fun way to help tell the story.

As easy as a click – the rise of the robots

We’re headed for a major change in photo editing as we enter the dawn of the Artificial Intelligence (AI) age. For some time now, computers have been able to “recognize” images. Tell Google Photos to search the entire internet for photos of even something improbable, green dogs, and it almost instantly finds many. This is not a keyword search; it “recognizes” the image of a dog and the color green and finds the photos.

Facial recognition? Lightroom can do that.

We already see better and better implementations of AI photo editing tools too. How long will it be before an AI editing program can do a better job than you? Maybe that day is almost here.

Fake it to Make it - Creating Convincing Photo Composites

Image: Sky substitution. Soon you’ll do this with one click with the Luminar 4 Sky Replacement...

Sky substitution. Soon you’ll do this with one click with the Luminar 4 Sky Replacement AI tool.

Skylum Software recently announced its new Luminar 4 editing software with “AI Sky Replacement.”  Not only can it replace the sky in a photo, but it also does it with no selections, layers, or masking.  It claims to handle even detailed images such as fine tree branches extending into the sky. And, it goes even a step further, using the colors of the replacement sky to better match the scene.

Mixed emotions

I must confess, I have mixed emotions about software editing tools that better the skills I’ve learned after hundreds of hours slaving over a hot computer [Me too – Editor]. Or that don’t require I earn that great shot by setting the alarm for 4:30, shivering in the pre-dawn cold, and hoping the clouds and color are just right only to be disappointed. One-click to a beautiful shot?

Could I, in good conscience, enter a contest with such a shot and accept an award for “my” image? The one made with artificial intelligence instead of just my intelligence and skills?

Image: The Yellowstone Bison endure harsh winter conditions. Think this one was originally a part of...

The Yellowstone Bison endure harsh winter conditions. Think this one was originally a part of this shot? You’ve been “buffaloed.” Added with compositing.

Photography and “real” art

I have to think that when photography first entered the scene, traditional artists, painters, sketch artists and those who created their art from scratch by hand had to scoff. Photographers had no artistic skills, and they weren’t “real artists.”

Later, we transitioned from purely mechanical cameras to automatic ones and from film to digital. Autofocus? Auto exposure settings? Auto white balance? Pshaw!

How about processing negatives and film in chemical baths, working with negatives and enlargers, dodging and burning with real tools and real photographic paper? Do you say you do that all now in a computer with a few clicks of a mouse? That if you make a mistake, you can simply undo it and not have to throw away your work and start all over?

You call yourself a “real photographer?”

Image: Experiencing the 8/21/17 total eclipse was amazing. I used creative photo compositing to sequ...

Experiencing the 8/21/17 total eclipse was amazing. I used creative photo compositing to sequence my shots for this image.

Image: I made a shot of the forest near Crouch, Idaho the day before the eclipse. The next day I cap...

I made a shot of the forest near Crouch, Idaho the day before the eclipse. The next day I capture the “diamond ring” image of the eclipse. It did look like this, but I’m not sure I could have captured this in one shot. Creative photo compositing.

Conclusion

You get the point.  As technology marches on our tools change, we find easier ways of doing things and more people are able to become involved, not having to spend years learning complex skills.  More people can, with some technological assistance, produce better images.

One last thing to remember however, the human touch, the “soul” of your photography, your personal vision will never be replaced by “artificial” intelligence.  Wise photographers still appreciate the special skills of artists who create beautiful images by hand.  Wise digital photographers still appreciate the skills of analog film photographers who created great photos with very basic equipment.  And, perhaps one day, you and I will appreciate the skills of a robot photographer and an AI editor.  Or maybe not.

 

 

 

The post Fake it to Make it – Creating Convincing Photo Composites appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


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You will soon be able to import into Lightroom on iOS directly from external storage

14 Nov

Adobe has given the public a new sneak peek at a future update for Lightroom on iOS that will simplify the process of importing images into the app. As demonstrated in the above video, Adobe will enable users to directly import images from card readers into Lightroom on iOS, after which point the content is uploaded to the cloud and added to the app’s photo library.

The ‘seamless importing experience’ will arrive in a future Lightroom update starting with iOS 13.2, according to Adobe’s Tom Hogarty. The company doesn’t provide an exact release date for this update, but says that it will arrive ‘soon.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm announces upcoming firmware updates for X-T3, X-T30 and other models

14 Nov

Fujifilm has announced plans to release future firmware updates for its X-T3 mirrorless camera. The first update to version 3.10 will arrive in mid-December, according to a release from the company published on Wednesday.

The update scheduled for release in mid-December will bring ‘controls for video recording from Gimbal / Drone via USB communications,’ according to Fujifilm, meaning X-T3 owners will be able to use their camera with a drone and gimbal setup that supports the function. This same functionality will also be released for the X-T30 and other models not specified at this time.

The firmware version 3.20 update is scheduled for release in January 2020 and will bring ‘enhanced autofocus’ with better eye AF frame tracking and face-detection performance, as well as improved autofocus when it comes to foreground subjects. Additionally, versiohn 3.20 will add support for saving up to 9,999 images in each folder on the SD card, a dramatic increase from the current 999 limit.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo

14 Nov

The post How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

 

how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

The best photography comes from having a plan. That’s especially the case when it comes to landscape photography. In this article, you’ll learn the practical steps you can take ahead of time so you can get the best possible results. Follow these steps to plan the perfect landscape photo, and you’ll get amazing results every time.

how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

This photo needs the seasonal salt marsh plants to give it that extra punch.

Know where the perfect landscape photo is

The first step is finding a great location to photograph. If that’s in your local area, you’ll almost certainly know where the local money shots are. What if you’re traveling to somewhere new, though? Well, there are several things you can do before you visit, which will give you a head start. It is good planning to make a list of photos you wish to take ahead of time. To do that, look to do the following:

  • Choose a location – The first step is going to be choosing a location. Keep this to a defined area like one city, or a national park. If the country is small like perhaps Iceland, you can look to that as your location.
  • Famous landmarks – Now within that location, start looking for the standout places that people visit, not just for photography, but because they’re amazing. Make a list of these places, and choose which ones you would like to photograph.
  • Other photos – Now it’s time to search online for inspiration from other photographers. This may lead you to replicate one of these photos. If you’re concerned about this then avoid this step, and go to the location with a clear mind about how you will take your photo. Sites like 500px, Instagram and Flickr can be good resources for this step.
Image: If the location is far from where you live, ask people who have visited there before for thei...

If the location is far from where you live, ask people who have visited there before for their advice.

Visit the location ahead of time

Where possible the next step for you to plan the perfect landscape photo is to visit the location before you photograph it. There are three possible ways you can go about doing this. Each has its drawbacks, but if you can, then this step will help a lot.

  • Day trip – If your location is nearby, you could make a day trip without your camera. This is aimed at getting you that vital on-the-ground information.
  • Arrive early – A lot of landscape photos are sunsets. Arrive several hours before sunset to thoroughly explore the area for the best location to get a good composition. Taking a sunrise photo? Then arrive the evening before so you can see the location while it’s still light ahead of your photo the next day.
  • Online maps – Should the location be an airplane ride away, the only way of visiting the location early is online. While you won’t get all the information, using services like Google maps street view can allow you to explore a location remotely ahead of time.
Image: This photo is of the new skyscraper in Bangkok, the Mahanakhon.

This photo is of the new skyscraper in Bangkok, the Mahanakhon.

Sunrise or sunset?

A lot of landscape photos will be either sunrise or sunset locations. Make sure you know where these are ahead of time.

You’ll need to work out your route from where you’re staying to these locations. You also need to arrive around one hour before sunrise or sunset happens. With sunset or sunrise skies comes big differences in the dynamic range. Make sure you’re familiar with techniques like bracketing and digital blending before you go out to take these photos.

Finally, don’t always photograph towards the sun, turn around and look for the golden light and see if that makes a good photo as well.

Image: One of my friends is a Balloonist who has, on occasion, taken me for a balloon ride.

One of my friends is a Balloonist who has, on occasion, taken me for a balloon ride.

Contact a fixer to plan the perfect landscape photo

There are lots of situations in photography where you will need a fixer. A fixer is someone who helps you facilitate the photograph you want to take. This fixer could take several forms depending on the situation or location you want to photograph. These are a few examples of fixers that you could need to deal with.

  • Security guard – A lot of cityscape photos are taken from the rooftop of tall buildings. Contacting the security of that building to ask for permission ahead of time is a good idea.
  • Restaurant or bar manager – There are some restaurants that have amazing viewpoints. Some of these will allow you to photograph from their premises. Once again, you need to contact them ahead of time to arrange this.
  • Photographer – Contacting local photographers to ask them for information is a great idea. If you’re lucky enough to find someone who will show you the local places to photograph, be sure to return the favor when you have the chance.
  • Tourist company – In some cases, joining a tour can get you to a location you want to photograph but otherwise could not reach. For example, if you want to take an aerial photo of a location, one solution is booking a balloon or helicopter ride! Remember, not everywhere will allow you to fly a drone.
how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

This photo required a longer focal length to compress the scene.

Bring the right equipment

Make sure you have the right equipment with you to get the photo you want. The list below is a suggested packing list for landscape photographers. The location you’re photographing from will have a big bearing on which items from the list below you actually take.

  • Tripod – A tripod is essential for all landscape photographers, whatever the conditions. Getting sharp images is important, and you’ll get this when using a tripod.
  • Camera body – The newest camera body may not be as important for daytime landscapes, but if you’re photographing the Milkyway, having a new camera body is invaluable.
  • Lens – If you have researched your location properly, you’ll know whether the primary photo you intend to take requires a wide-angle or telephoto focal length. There is nothing worse than getting a location and realizing your lens doesn’t allow you to compose the photo the way you wish.
  • Remote trigger – A remote trigger or perhaps a cable release will mean you don’t need to touch the camera on the tripod. This will remove the chance of camera shake.
  • Filters – These are always worth packing as they take up minimal space. Neutral density filters are great for long exposure work, and graduated neutral density filters are also nice to have. A circular polarizing filter should be packed to give your photo more punch. Looking for a little creativity? How about packing an infra-red filter?
  • Other equipment – Looking to make a landscape that’s a little different? A lensball allows you to capture the scene in front of you in a unique way. It’s like having an external lens. How about light painting? You’ll need to bring things like a torch or an LED light stick for this.
Image: Filters are a vital piece of equipment for all landscape photographers.

Filters are a vital piece of equipment for all landscape photographers.

Know the local conditions ahead of time

Finally, make sure you’re checking the weather ahead of time. If your schedule is flexible enough, check the 5-day forecast and choose a day that works best for the sky. The long-range forecast can’t always be relied on though, so also be prepared to drop everything on the day if the right conditions develop for your photo.

Weather

Of course, this means using a reliable weather service or app on your phone. There are several of these out there. The recommended ones are windy.com and wunderground.com. These sites give good forecasts, though it’s worth checking them as you get nearer the intended day of your photo as they are updating their information. Then on the day itself, you can check their satellite images for up-to-the-minute information. These satellite images give information on current positions of clouds or any rain.

The sun

Another factor to consider is the sun, and that’s not whether it’s a sunny day or not. The sun’s position in the sky changes throughout the year. That means you can plan your trip to coincide with when the sun will be in the best position in the sky for your photo. To get this information use suncalc.org or the photopills app for your smartphone.

how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

Seasonal changes to the landscape can make a dramatic difference as well. Plan for when there will be spring or fall foliage you can make use of. In the winter, the snow can also be pretty.

Tide times

Those of you doing any photography along the coast will need to know the tide times. The landscape scene along a coast can change dramatically depending on whether it’s high or low tide. Again, tide times change throughout the year, so you should be able to plan your trip so that the level of the tide is perfect for your photo.

It’s also important to know from a safety perspective. If you can only access your location at low tide, you need to know how long you can safely photograph from that low tide position.

How do you plan the perfect landscape photo?

Having read this article, you’ll have a better feel for how to plan your landscape photo.

Which of the above steps will you put into your planning phase? Are there things you do when you plan your landscape photos that were not included here?

We’d love you hear your thoughts and ideas in the comments section of this article. Then, once you have taken your landscape photo, you can share it in the comments section.

So now it’s time to start planning, and taking better landscape photos!

 

 

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The Pixel 4 can’t beat a compact camera, but that doesn’t matter

13 Nov

With its newly improved Super Resolution Zoom, the Pixel 4 makes a case for itself as a replacement for a compact camera with a 4-6x zoom range. The kind you might bring on vacation – something with a sensor that’s a little bigger and a modest zoom that won’t be too cumbersome while you explore your destination.

I took the Pixel 4 as my primary camera on a recent trip, but just to satisfy my curiosity, packed the Canon PowerShot G5 X Mark II alongside it. The Pixel 4 fell short in a couple of ways, but overall it did the job well enough that I wouldn’t have regretted taking it as my only camera. Here’s what it did well, what the dedicated camera still does best, and why I think those differences don’t matter much to most people who take pictures.

A military fort-turned-prison is kind of a weird place to take someone for their birthday, but my fiancé is into that kind of thing. Plus, it was a great excuse to quote Sean Connery saying ‘Welcome to the Rock,’ for several weeks leading up to the trip. I’d been to Alcatraz before, so I was happy to spend a little more effort and concentration on taking photos.

As you might imagine, a jailhouse provides lots of low light photography opportunities – a task that the Pixel 4 is well equipped for. Night Sight does a little bit of computational magic to create surprisingly detailed images in low light (and good light for that matter). But even the default camera mode does a very nice job in dim conditions, thanks to its ability to capture multiple frames, analyze them and assemble the best bits into one final image on the fly. In fact, it out-performed the Canon G5 X II in the situations where I tested both.

The moderately low light images below show the Pixel 4 producing a slightly more detailed, less noise-smudged image in its standard camera mode versus the Canon G5 X II’s out-of-camera JPEG.

Zoom is another story. Google has improved the Super Resolution digital zoom in the Pixel 4, boosting image quality thanks to a combo of clever algorithms and the new telephoto lens. The company claims that the camera will produce decent results up to 6x zoom, but admit that zoom is a difficult problem to solve with the current technology.

Absolutely nobody is claiming that the phone’s 4-6x zoomed images can take on a traditional camera’s zoom pixel-for-pixel, but because I’m curious I checked it out anyway. Both cameras are at 5x zoom in the example below (about 135mm equiv. for the Pixel 4 and 122mm equiv. on the G5 X II).

The difference is obvious in the 100% crops above, and can be easily seen even at 50% – but then again how often will those photos be viewed on anything bigger than a computer screen? If I planned on making prints of these images, I’d still want a traditional optical zoom. But I rarely print images and I suspect I’m in the majority of the picture-taking public.

There was one more Pixel 4 camera feature that I found myself relying on that the G5 X II doesn’t offer: Dual Exposure Controls, which doesn’t mean what you think it means.

Dual Exposure Control puts a higher level of control over shadows and brightness, along with the ability to adjust them independently of each other, all before image capture

An advanced compact such as the G5 X II provides plenty of manual controls over exposure settings. What it doesn’t provide is the ability to finely tune shadows and brightness before you press the shutter: you can instead select low, medium or high levels of its Auto Lighting Optimizer.

The Pixel 4’s Dual Exposure Control gives you direct control over shadows and brightness, along with the ability to adjust them independently of each other, all before image capture. This phone and previous Google devices would do this automatically expose for backlit subjects and high-contrast scenes, but the dual controls allow you to increase or minimize the effect, depending on what you want.

The Pixel 4’s Dual Exposure Controls allowed me to slightly boost shadows in this image before pressing the shutter.

Of course the G5 X II offers plenty of editing flexibility with in-camera Raw processing, but control over settings is limited. For anything more advanced than some basic tweaks, you’ll need to take your Raw images into Lightroom or the like. On the Pixel 4, it all happens in-camera.

This potentially changes how you approach a high-contrast scene. Normally I’d expose for the highlights and bring up the shadows later, which works well but leaves me without an image to share now. This is annoying because social media has robbed me of any patience I once had. The Pixel 4 lets me make those adjustments before I take the photo – rather than having to wait until I can process the image later.

If I was keeping score, I could award a lot more points in favor of either device. Color science backed by decades of fine tuning, better picture-taking ergonomics, flip-out touchscreen for low angle shots: all points for the traditional camera. Integrated photo storage, seamless image sharing, always in your pocket: point, point, point for the Pixel 4.

What speaks louder than any arbitrary score-keeping though is the fact that I saw few, if any, compact cameras among my fellow tourists at Alcatraz. I saw mirrorless cameras, DSLRs, a few superzoom cameras and of course, lots of phones. To most of the photo-taking population though, the compact camera – even a really nice compact camera – is already history.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Hands-on: The Sigma fp is shaping up to be an impressive camera for video pros

13 Nov

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

The Sigma fp is the world’s smallest full-frame camera. Built as a hybrid stills / video platform, the fp is highly modular and packed with features that many stills photographers would find esoteric in the extreme. The fp has clearly been designed with filmmakers in mind, and after using one for a few days, we suspect that they’ll love it.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

Measuring 112 x 70 x 45mm and weighing only 422g (just shy of one pound) with a battery and memory card, the aluminum-bodied Sigma fp is a very small, very light camera, considering its sensor format. We’re told that fp stands for ‘fortissimo pianissimo,’ which Sigma is interpreting as ‘very loud and very soft’. One way of interpreting that is ‘a lot of power in a small package’.

Sigma has achieved the fp’s compactness in a couple of different ways. Firstly, the body is the core of a very modular system. There’s no built-in viewfinder, no integral flash, and no grip. Leaving these things out means some serious space savings, and furthermore there’s no in-body stabilization, and no mechanical shutter, either. The fp is all electronic shutter, all the time. This has one major advantage for stills photographers – totally silent shooting – but a couple of disadvantages: a very slow maximum flash sync speed, and the potential for rolling shutter (‘jello effect’) and banding in some lighting conditions.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

From behind, you can get an idea of the fp’s minimalist ergonomics. The rear of the camera is dominated by a large, touch-sensitive LCD, with only four direct control buttons to the right, plus a control wheel / 4-way controller. The accessory grip adds a protruding thumbrest but without this, the back of the camera is essentially flat. Below the screen you’ll find five more buttons, mainly geared to video shooters.

Because the form factor of the fp is essentially a flat-sided rectangle, with barely any protuberances anywhere, it’s easy to incorporate into a video rig.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

This view shows the interesting design of the accessory grip, which is formed from a single curve of metal. It also shows off the fp’s very simple upper control layout. A control dial and integrated shutter button, a ‘REC’ button and a very simple ‘Cine | Still’ toggle for fast switching between capture modes. In a nice touch, when the switch is set to ‘Cine’, the switch moves to expose a bright red painted backing, providing quick visual feedback that the camera is set to record video, even when it is powered off.

Also visible in this shot is a row of vent holes, above the rear LCD. More on those in a moment.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

Here’s the fp without the accessory grip attached. The grip, straps and tripod socket all use 1/4-inch threads, which makes modifying the camera pretty simple and gives videographers multiple attachment point options for incorporating the fp into a cage or shoulder-mounted rig.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

Here are those same vent holes viewed from the base of the camera. The fp is passively cooled, via a large heat sink designed to dissipate heat away from internal components and out of the camera. The system is ‘passive’ to the extent that it does not rely on mechanical fans to do so, hence it will not create any operational sound: a potential issue when shooting video.

The vents do not lead directly to any of the fp’s delicate innards. As such, if dust or moisture make their way into them, it doesn’t present a problem. The fp is fully weather-sealed at 42 points, and Sigma is confident that the fp should stand up under use in poor weather.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

The fp does not feature an integrated hotshoe, and Sigma has opted not to make an optional EVF. Instead, for cinematographers that really need a viewfinder, there’s the LVF-11 finder, which attaches physically to the rear screen and offers a 2.5X magnification, for precise focus and composition adjustments in (say) bright ambient light.

While not as flexible as a true electronic finder, for video work the LVF-11 works very well, and the additional stand-off distance from the back of the camera actually ends up being very useful when the fp is built up into a multi-module rig…

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

…a rig like this Zacuto one, where as you can probably imagine, the close proximity of the LCD screen to the operator’s face would make focusing on composition and focus very uncomfortable. With the LVF-11 attached, the operator can both hold the camera and look through the finder in a comfortable working position.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

This rig demonstrates the fp with an optional HU-11 hotshoe adapter attached, allowing for the addition of a range of accessories, such as an external microphone, or of course a flash (assuming you can live with the 1/30sec max flash sync speed).

It also shows a Samsung T5 SSD drive (right) attached to the fp via USB 3, into which 12-bit CinemaDNG Raw video can be recorded directly.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

Here’s the USB port, alongside the HDMI port and mic socket. The six gold connectors are proprietary, and carry power to the accessory hotshoe unit.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

According to Sigma CEO Kazuto Yamaki, the fp was developed on the basis of knowledge gleaned from the creation of Sigma’s ‘Cine’ range of Art-series prime lenses. The 35mm T1.5 is shown here, dwarfing the fp. But cine primes are typically heavy things, and every ounce saved from the total setup is precious, especially for filmmakers working with shoulder-mounted rigs.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

We’ve only had a full production-quality fp for a few days, but that’s long enough to form some preliminary impressions. Right now, we’re pretty positive for the most part, with some caveats. Stills photographers might be a little shy of it at first (I did find myself really wishing for a conventional finder, and I’d personally take a bigger body for the sake of IBIS) but with one of the optional grips attached, the fp handles pretty well. The most serious handicap for stills shooting is likely to be rolling shutter, which does introduce distortion in some situations, albeit not to a problematic extent in many shooting scenarios.

Although the fp uses a contrast-detection autofocus system, it is reasonably fast and responsive (with the L-mount 45mm F2.8 and 14-24mm F2.8 attached) and finds faces and eyes fairly quickly and accurately, assuming your subject is facing the camera. That said, overall autofocus performance is definitely a step behind the best of the mirrorless competition, with noticeable lag (for example) when placing the desired AF point by touch.

Hands-on with the Sigma fp

Realistically though, the fp is a video camera that can shoot stills – not the other way round. And video pros have a lot to be excited about. In the fp, Sigma is courting them pretty aggressively, with features like HDR video (coming via firmware), 12-bit Raw video output to an SSD and ‘Directors’ Viewfinder’ which allows filmmakers to simulate the different viewing angles and fields of view of other popular video cameras for framing.

So that’s the fp, coming soon to a store near you for an MSRP of $ 1,800. With the potential to be a seriously powerful tool for filmmakers, along with some solid stills photography features, the fp is an interesting prospect, and a bold move for Sigma. Watch out for more analysis – including a detailed look at its video capabilities – soon.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Volta packs an 8,000mAh power bank into the handle of a camera rig

13 Nov
A new Indiegogo campaign is seeking funds for Volta, an 8,000mAh power bank packed into a camera rig top handle. The product features multiple 1/4″ and 3/8″ screw mounts, a removable ‘handle component,’ and two interchangeable 21700 batteries, which are the same power cells used by Tesla.

The top handle design is presented as a convenient way to tote around an extra power bank — one that, in the case of Volta, features a USB-C port on the front of the handle offering 7.4v versus the 5v commonly offered by commercial external batteries. When Volta isn’t needed as a handle, that component can be removed to use it as an ordinary power bank.

The team behind Volta presents the device as being akin to the combination of an NPF-970 battery and a top handle, but as noted by DIY Photography, the claim doesn’t quite hold up. The 8,000mAh capacity comes from two 4,000mAh power cells wired in series, which works out to 29.6Wh; Sony’s 6,600mAh NP-F970 7.2v battery, on the other hand, features 47.4Wh.

Regardless, the Volta is available to back on Indiegogo with pledges starting at $ 32 USD. Shipping to backers is expected to start in December 2019, assuming the campaign is successful and everything goes according to plan.

Via: DIY Photography


Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Apple loses patent lawsuit, will have to pay RED royalties for ProRes RAW format

13 Nov

Apple has failed in an attempt to over-throw patents held by RED that govern methods for compressing Raw video, leaving the company open to paying royalties on its ProRes RAW file format. Apple had tried to show that the technology RED patented around its RedCode codec was obvious and shouldn’t have been granted protection, but the court rejected the claim leaving RED secure to license the lossless compression technique to camera, software and accessories manufacturers.

It seems that Apple had wanted to avoid paying royalties on the ProRes RAW format it introduced via Final Cut Pro last year, and which is used in some DJI drones, some Atomos recorders and a few other products. The problem is that RED claims ProRes RAW uses technology it owns for compressing those RAW files to make them manageable to work with. RedCode allows Raw video to be captured and compressed in-camera in much the same way that stills cameras do, allowing data directly from the sensor to be recorded and made available for very flexible post-production manipulation.

RED’s technology allows files to be compressed by ratios of up to 22:1, though it says 3:1 is mathematically lossless and 8:1 is visually lossless. The value of this is not only that it allows video files to be reduced in size, but also that for the same size file videographers can record in higher resolutions to provide the means for heavy cropping and frame splitting in post-production.

RED President Jarred Land posted on the RED User forum that he was glad the company’s technology remained protected but that the dispute between RED and Apple was just a means to finding where each stood technology-wise so they could continue to work together. He wrote:

‘We are pleased to see our REDCODE patents withstand another challenge.

To be clear, as I mentioned before, this never really was Apple vs. RED. It has always been APPLE + RED, and this was all part of the process defining how we work together in the future.

RED integration with Apple’s METAL framework for realtime R3D playback is coming along well and the work that the two teams are doing together is exceeding expectations. We are very excited for the new Mac Pro and the new XDR pro display and the power they bring to the entire RED workflow.’

The ‘another challenge’ refers to a similar attempt made by Sony in 2013.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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PolarPro introduces ultra-lightweight filter systems with active creators in mind

13 Nov

Today, California-based filter manufacturer, PolarPro, known for their premium ND and polarizing filters for cameras, as well as drones, announced the launch of two toolless, ultra-lightweight filter systems – one matte box, Basecamp, and one landscape filter system called Summit – designed to catapult professional creatives to the next skill level.

BaseCamp Ultra-lightweight Matte Box System

A base camp is a pillar of safety, as you head out into the unknown. It’s a haven to take shelter intermittently as battle the elements and push your limits to capture the best possible footage. Camera gear is getting heavier, especially lenses as higher quality optics are implemented. PolarPro designed BaseCamp, the lightest matte box system possible at 438 grams, to alleviate the burden heavier cameras put on operators and gimbals.

Built on the foundation of PolarPro’s Quartzline series, the toolless Variable Neutral Density configuration allows photographers and filmmakers to adapt to any lighting change instantly without having to swap out filters. Its modular design, constructed out of aluminum and carbon fibers, features a removable flag and hood that allows users to customize it to suit their production requirements.

Summit Landscape Filter System

Summit is a new range filter system aimed at photographers. It allows for toolless filter swapping and, like the BaseCamp system, has been designed with a large grip handle to minimize the risk of fingerprints on the filters. Summit filters screw onto the end of your lens and were constructed, with lightweight aluminum, in a fully light-sealed system to prevent light leakage.

PolarPro is offering $ 100 off the first 300 people who purchase their Summit Landscape Kit, the BaseCamp VND Kit, and their Cores. The BaseCamp VND Kit retails for $ 799, its Core is $ 399, Rectangular Filters are $ 299 each, while Rails Kits come out to $ 119.99 each. The Summit Landscape Kit will cost you $ 699, its Core $ 299.99, both Gradient and Neutral Density Filters $ 249.99 each, and a Circular Polarizer for either the Matte Box or Filter System costs $ 150. All can be purchased on PolarPro’s website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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