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  • DPReview TV: Pentax DA* 11-18mm F2.8 lens review

    It’s Pentax week on DPReview TV, so Chris and Jordan review the DA* 11-18mm F2.8 ultra-wide zoom for Pentax APS-C cameras. Do they like it? They sure do! Enough to inspire Jordan to sing. And sing some more. Get out your earplugs.

    Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

    • Introduction
    • Design and build
    • Weather sealing
    • Sample photos
    • Focal length
    • Autofocus
    • Close focusing
    • The town of Kimberly
    • Flare and sunstars
    • Chromatic aberration and distortion
    • Sharpness
    • Conclusion

    Sample gallery from this episode

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    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Make a Unified Instagram Feed as a Photographer to Help Support Your Brand

    The post How to Make a Unified Instagram Feed as a Photographer to Help Support Your Brand appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.

    unified-instagram-feed-for-photographers

    Social media has such a strong presence in our world, both in a personal and professional sense. Gone are the days of searching for a photographer via Google. Many are turning to the social media platform, Instagram. Instagram has become a powerful tool for photographers and content creators alike. It is an engagement-oriented online portfolio so-to-speak.

    But with thousands of accounts active on Instagram in any given second, how do you stand out from the rest and still attract photography clients? By having a feed that is more aesthetically pleasing than the rest!

    Here is our guide on how to make a unified Instagram feed as a photographer.

    What does a unified Instagram feed even mean?

    Image: This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification by color tonality. She uses blues and pi...

    This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification by color tonality. She uses blues and pinks to unify her Instagram feed.

    Humans naturally gravitate to cohesiveness, especially those with a certain sensitivity to aesthetic.

    A unified Instagram is one in which each image, viewed in totality with one another, look like a piece of a great puzzle. Each one appears to belong and in some way, shape, or form unites with another surrounding it.

    It’s the difference between a feed that looks cluttered and disconnected and one that looks like it is a part of a strategically and effortlessly tailored brand.

    Having unity in your work not only pushes your brand further, but can attract a slew of eyes on your product (the beautiful images!). Not only is it a trend to have something a bit more cohesive, it has been shown to really aid in acquiring new clients who are attracted to the style your showcasing.

    Image: An example of my varied feed – when you have many areas of specialization, it can be difficul...

    An example of my varied feed – when you have many areas of specialization, it can be difficult to maintain complete cohesiveness.

    This isn’t a tried and true method for all photography businesses. For example, I am a multi-faceted photographer and to have an overly-cohesive feed is just not possible for me. However, my fellow industry mates have very beautifully tailored and structured feeds that work brilliantly for them! Their clients know exactly what to expect and hire them based on their look.

    The real secret?

    Image: This is an example of my thematic feed of female portraits with animals.

    This is an example of my thematic feed of female portraits with animals.

    So, what’s the real secret? For the most part, it’s utilizing the same editing mechanism over and over again. Create a preset or a general direction for your editing, and replicate this across your full board. This already creates a look of cohesiveness with minimal effort.

    I suggest not using Instagram’s preset filters as these tend to lower the quality of your images. Instead, create your own Presets or Actions in Lightroom or Photoshop. You can even automate these to play on the batch of images you select for posting.

    If you find that preset editing really isn’t you, unite your feed by topic or theme. This also allows you an opportunity to really solidify your niche as a photographer and attract the right demographic to your work. Figure out what kind of photographer you are and who or what your most common subjects tend to be, and post images that fit within that scope.

    Image: In this feed from Goldilocks and the Wolf, there is unification by the fairytale theme and th...

    In this feed from Goldilocks and the Wolf, there is unification by the fairytale theme and the winter landscapes.

    Creating a unified feed based on a color palette is also an excellent idea.

    Colors are a major way to keep everything looking tailored and express who you are as a creator.

    Color theory is a complex topic that can be taught for hours, but the general idea is that certain hues and color combinations attract a specific reaction. Tying marketing into Instagram, find a color palette that tends to attract your customers (and potential customers).

    Look at what your followers gravitate towards, and feed into that wanting. It’s okay to break up your feed with text that engages your audience base, and keep everything still looking together.

    Bonus tip: create a posting calendar for the month. Preview these images in a mockup of your Instagram feed and see how it all looks together. This provides a lot of insight on the final outcome!

    If you make a unified feed and then want to change the theme, what then?

    Image: This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification in sets of 3 (with editing style and ima...

    This feed by singer Jessica Abari, shows unification in sets of 3 (with editing style and images from the same photo shoot), but also overall because Jessica herself is the theme.

    I think a daunting aspect of this is all is permanence.

    If you spend the time making your images cohesive with one another and then change your mind, has all of your effort been wasted?

    Not at all! It’s quite simple to change your theme. You can choose to gradually shift to your new aesthetic or go bold and post three images in the new style right off the bat and go with that.

    Final thoughts

    Image: Rachel Lauren’s Instagram Feed. Her feed is unified in both her editing style and theme...

    Rachel Lauren’s Instagram Feed. Her feed is unified in both her editing style and theme with the portraits with animals.

    Remember that while in the pursuit of unity, don’t lose yourself or who you are as a photographer.

    There is a fine line to walk between solely appeasing the masses and ensuring that your individual photography voice is heard. Where that balance is, rests entirely on your own opinion.

    As well as this, be wary about appearing too repetitive and monotonous – try to post images that have different compositions or express something new. Being cohesive doesn’t mean being boring.

    When you make a unified Instagram feed as a photographer, put your best imaging foot forward first!

    The post How to Make a Unified Instagram Feed as a Photographer to Help Support Your Brand appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.


    Digital Photography School

  • Slideshow: Agora’s #Urban2020 photo contest winner and finalists

    Agora’s #Urban2020 photo contest winner and finalists

    Agora, a free-to-use mobile app, hosts weekly competitions with cash prizes based on different themes. They just announced the winner of their #Urban2020 photo contest. 50 of the top entries were judged by Roc Isern, a Barcelona-based architectural photographer. Darren Reichel (@dlr on Agora), from Australia, was selected as the winner for his image of Brisbane’s Inner City Bypass freeway interchange. It was taken with a DJI Mavic 2 Pro at dusk in March 2019.

    “I chose @drl’s photo in first place for its futuristic look with his incredible road junction in the foreground and the downtown in the background. The light, colors and contrast are just gorgeous,” said Isern about his selection. Read more about Reichel’s inspiration behind capturing this image, here. He’ll use the $ 1,000 prize to take his wife on a much-needed vacation from the stresses of raising their two-year-old daughter.

    Agora is currently running photography contests based on the themes of Love, Celebration, Winter, Change the World, and Friends. It is available for iOS and Android. The title of the photo followed by the Agora username of the photographer and their home country. Captions are the photographers own words about their inspiration behind the image.

    #Urban2020 Winner: ‘Myriad’ by @dlr (Australia)

    About this photo: With his photo, @dlr shows how Australia’s third-largest city is adopting a very futuristic and forward-looking feel: “My wife, daughter and I were driving through this area late one evening, and we both commented on how complex this freeway interchange seemed. I thought to myself that this would look particularly amazing from the air, so I decided to go back the following weekend with my DJI Mavic 2 Pro drone, to capture the scene from above.

    This freeway interchange runs over the top of a local waterway known as Breakfast Creek, which is renowned for its mosquito population. Needless to say, I came home covered head to toe in mosquito bites. My body was itchy for a week! I was super impressed with how well this image turned out though, so I think that the pain of the mosquito bites was more than worth it. I’m hoping that Brisbane residents see this photo and feel a sense of pride, and realise just how quickly this amazing city and its urban infrastructure is growing.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ’Untitled’ by @banudiker (Turkey)

    About this photo: @banudiker snapped this picture while sailing on the Nile River, Egypt: “We were sailing away from Cairo’s noisy neighbourhoods. There is a lot of monotonous, colorless tall buildings along the Nile River in downtown. When I saw this building that is totally different from the others, I started to imagine the life of people living there.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Organised Chaos’ by @leemumford8 (UK)

    About this photo: British photographer @leemumford8 snapped the incredible architecture of Hong Kong view from above: “Sometimes you don’t get the same sense of scale until you look at something from above. As the day turns too dark, I captured the hustle and bustle of the city streets.

    As the street lights turned on, the roads lit up in this bright yellow-orange which I like to call the city’s veins. As the light was fading, a longer shutter was needed as I wanted to keep the ISO fairly low to help reduce noise. As this was an aerial shot, it was a fine balance before camera shake was an issue. The visibility on this particular was so clear, conditions I’ve been unable to replicate since.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ’Mind The Gap’ by @_kennyc_ (UK)

    About this photo: @_kennyc_ entered the competition with an iconic shot from the London Tube: “Heading out later at night in London was something I loved to do – it’s a stark difference to the hustle and bustle of the day, giving photographers with completely different scenes to work with. The underground in particular, is eerily peaceful compared to the mayhem of rush hour.

    At the time I had recently been inspired by a number of street/urban photographers who had captured some stunning scenes from various subways around the world – so one evening I picked up my camera and ventured below ground. This particular shot is an idea I’d had in my head ever since I watched the fantastic short film ‘Mind The Gap’ directed by Luke Flanagan.

    This iconic message/recording is played out throughout the Underground network and heard by millions of Londoners every day. It’s a message instantly recognisable to anyone that has lived in this incredible city, and something I wanted to capture in a picture. I knew the message wasn’t just played out through speakers, but painted in bright yellow paint on the floor of many tube stations. I thought getting a close-up shot of this while capturing the speed of a moving train would make for a pretty cool shot – I wasn’t wrong! While the Tube is iconic to many people around the world, ‘MIND THE GAP’ is iconic to Londoners.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Trapped’ by @laboussole.seon (France)

    About this photo: French expat @laboussole.seon took this photo of the legendary Yick Fat building in October 2017: “Hong Kong is the most exciting and most contrasted urban environment I know. With this photo, I wanted to transmit the feeling to be trapped in a city, in the middle of tall buildings with a high density of apartments, and the sky seems so far away. I took the photo at sunset so that the colours of the sky are an invitation to peace and warmth, to contrast with the main subject.

    It is challenging to take a photo in this place, as it is a famous spot, mostly for Instagramers. I went a couple of hours before sunset secure a good spot. Shortly after this shooting session, the management of the building has added a sign forbidding photo taking as it became too disturbing for the people actually living in the building. unfortunately for them, it doesn’t seem to have stopped tourists.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ’Untitled’ by @anhtrungqng (Vietnam)

    About this photo: Every day, thousands of motorcycles and cars crowd the streets of Ho Chi Minh City also known as Saigon, the largest city in Vietnam where @anhtrungqng snapped this shot during the evening rush hour.

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Eyeshape’ by @marcelvanbalken (Netherlands)

    About this photo: Dutch photographer @marcelvanbalken said: “It was very bad weather, a lot of rain. So I had to take this picture with my camera in one hand and an umbrella in the other. The urban space in a play of light and shadow form shows an almost surrealistic decor. Pure black-and-white, in which the photography of architecture begins to take on abstract forms, reinforced by the apparently disproportionate addition of the man. If I win, I want to purchase a drone to be able to photograph urban spaces from a height.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Ship city’ by @azimronnie (Bangladesh)

    About this photo: @azimronnie (no longer on the app) shares some facts about this picture taken in his hometown, Dhaka: “The 500 enormous vessels used to transport bricks, sand and other goods, are either being built or are docked for maintenance work in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Shipbuilders in Bangladesh began exporting their ships to other countries in 2009, and it has since become a growing trade in the area.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Saigon-Vietnam’ by @nguyenvuphuoc (Vietnam)

    About this photo: @nguyenvuphuoc spotted these two female workers on Saigon’s under-construction new metro line: “When they saw me taking pictures, they asked me: Why? We are not beautiful, you should go and photograph beautiful girls instead.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Nightscape in Rome’ by @henrydo (USA)

    About this photo: The majesty of Rome’s iconic symbol was perfectly captured by @henrydo: “Rome has been completely urbanized but they still kept many historic sites to preserve the history. I think it fits quite well with the hashtag. This shot was a composite of 2 separate images taken at different times in the same location. Many people thought a drone is capable of capturing the lit-up night sky but the technology isn’t that advance, yet. If I. win, I will donate part of my prize to a charity to fight plastic pollution in the ocean and save the marine wildlife.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Radioactive ??‘ by @notanothermica (Belgium)

    About this photo: @notanothermica snapped this impressive shot while exploring the urban area of Charleroi, Belgium: “This is one of the most famous spots in Belgium for urban exploration. The door to enter this power plant is sometimes closed, which makes it not easy to get in. On that day, I was lucky because the door was open and there was some good light, which caused the cool glow on the metal of the powerplant. I wanted to place a person inside the power plant to had a reason for the viewer to relate to the photo.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘/–\’ by @wunderbilder (Germany)

    About this photo: @wunderbilder captured this photo on a trip to Rome: “During our visit, we stayed in a flat in this building and I found the staircase geometrically very interesting. There was no elevator in the building.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Sinking in the fog’ by @borsch (Russia)

    About this photo: Russian photographer @borsch entered the competition with a foggy aerial view of his hometown, Moscow.

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: @paulaaranoa (Argentina)

    About this photo: Argentine photographer @paulaaranoa loved to explore the mysterious streets of Barcelona’s gothic neighbourhood: “The story behind the photo shows a character who is walking through a dark path, however the light is wrapping itself around him. On this day, the light was perfect. I watched how the people walking by were wrapped by the light, I spent at least an hour in the same place until the light changed… it was a unique spectacle and I consider myself privileged to have witnessed it.”

    #Urban2020 Top 50 Finalist: ‘Can’t stop won’t stop’ by @theliamman (UK)

    About this photo: @theliamman shot this photo nearby the telephone box outside St Paul’s Cathedral, London: “I wanted to transmit a sense of adventure. Cities come alive at night and I wanted to capture that bustling energy as the day turns to night. The top of this phone box was filthy, if you want to do the same photo I recommend wearing clothes that you don’t wear often.”

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop

    The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

    tips-for-processing-black-and-white-images-in-photoshop

    If you’re a lover of black and white imagery (like many of us photographers are), then you are probably aware of the many, many options there are for you to convert your images to black in white in Photoshop (and other software packages). Conversion is only the first step in processing black and white images. Once you have gotten rid of the color in your photos, you will still want to control and manage the tones in your images to get the best results possible. This article will introduce you to a few of these Photoshop tools that you can use to create images with impact.

    Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

    Global/Local Adjustments

    Before jumping straight into the list of tools, it is important to differentiate between two different types of adjustments you can make to your images.

    Global Adjustments – Global adjustments are adjustments that affect the entire image. For example, if you use the contrast slider in Lightroom, it alters the contrast in the entire image.

    Global adjustments in processing black and white images.

    As a global adjustment, this curves layer that was meant to bring down the highlights has affected the whole image and not in a pleasant way.

    Local Adjustments – Local adjustments are made to specific areas of an image that you define. For example, you can adjust the contrast for a portrait subject’s eyes and the contrast for their shirt separately.

    Local adjustments in processing black and white images.

    Using a layer mask allowed for a local adjustment, meaning the curves layer only affected the mid-tones surrounding the subject’s face.

    What this means for your images

    These distinctions are important because, in most cases, you will want to avoid profound global adjustments on your images. Most photos are made of scenes of different elements. If you think of this in terms of portraiture, imagine a person standing against a studio backdrop, such as the image below.

    Isolating areas of tonality in processing black and white images.

    Dividing an image into areas of tonality and then making adjustments to those areas separately, gives you complete control over your images.

    Here, you can divide the image up into several parts. You have the subject’s skin, eyes, shirt, hair, and background. Each of these elements reacts differently to various adjustments. By using global adjustments, you will alter the appearance of these elements at the same time.

    For example, if you want to increase the contrast of the shirt by a large amount to help bring out the texture, then you will also be increasing the contrast of the subject’s skin. As a general guide, you usually don’t want to increase contrast on skin. More often than not, you will want to reduce it.

    How do you go about increasing the contrast of a shirt while reducing contrast on the skin at the same time? Through the use of local adjustments.

    Tools for applying local adjustments

    There are a lot of ways to apply local adjustments to your images in Photoshop. Here is a primer on a handful of them.

    The right tool for the job depends entirely on the job at hand. By learning how to use several of these options, you will arm yourself with a variety of ways to use local adjustments while processing black and white images.

    Remember, this is an introduction to the various tools that you can use and not a full tutorial.

    Layer masks

    Layer masks are probably the easiest and most common way to get started with local adjustments in Photoshop. If you’re not already familiar with how to use this powerful yet intrinsic aspect of Photoshop, I strongly encourage you to spend some time reading up on and practicing using them as soon as possible.

    A layer mask effectively blocks an adjustment layer (masks it) from affecting parts of the image that you don’t want it to.

    Using layer masks in processing black and white images

    Layer masks will help you to isolate specific areas of your image that you want to make adjustments to. Here, the subject’s hat is darkened.

    In the example above, I made a Curves adjustment layer and filled the layer mask with black. Using a white brush (B) set to 100% opacity, I painted (with the layer mask clicked) over the subject’s eyes. Now, no matter what I do with the curves layer, it will only affect the area that I painted white in the layer mask.

    Using this technique, you can create as many Curves adjustment layers as you want (or any other type of adjustment layer) with each one only affecting specific parts of the image.  This way, you are able to treat each element in your image with individual care.

    Using layer masks in processing black and white images.

    Here, you can see three separate curves layers with their own masks. Each one is doing a different job separately from the other. The first two are darkening areas of the image, while the top on is lightening the background.

    Select Color Range

    While you are working with your layer masks, it can sometimes feel tricky, or downright difficult, to separate specific areas of an image to work with. One technique that is useful in this situation is the Select Color Range tool (Select->Color Range). This tool works very well when trying to select skin and skies.

    Select color range tool in processing black and white images.

    Here, you can see what the Select Color Range tool will add to your selection when you click on the brightest part of the image and set the fuzziness slider to max.

    Opening this tool will present you with a means to select a specific color range in your images that you can then apply to your layer masks. Because we are talking about processing black and white images, instead of selecting colors, you will be selecting a tonal range.

    With the dialogue box open, simply click an area in your image that you want to select to work on. You can now use the slider labeled Fuzziness to adjust how much of the image within that range you wish to select. If you only want the very brightest highlights selected, click on the brightest part of your image and drag the fuzziness slider to the left. With the selection made, you can now create any adjustment layer and Photoshop will turn that selection into a layer mask.

    Luminosity masks

    For a far more complex option, you can use Luminosity masks.

    There are a variety of ways to set these up inside Photoshop and with third-party plug-ins, so do be sure to research the various ways to go about it. Luminosity masks give you a ludicrous amount of fine control for processing your black and white images.

    Luminosity masks in processing black and white images.

    This is an example of what Luminosity Masks might look like when setting up in your images. I made the selection here with the ‘Light Lights’ mask. With all of these options to easily select specific tonal ranges, you should be able to see how powerful this is.

    In brief, Luminosity masks grant you the ability to create layer masks for every tonal range in your image. They allow you independent control over the brightest of highlights, the darkest of shadows and everything in between. With this amount of control, you can fine-tune every part of your image to your heart’s content.

    One word of warning though: leaving the Luminosity masks in your files results in very large file sizes. Consider deleting them before you save your images.

    Tools for controlling tones

    Now that you have a few options for selecting and isolating the various parts and tones of your images, there is a large selection of tools that you can use to manipulate the tonality (and other aspects) of your images.

    Selective Color

    The Selective Color adjustment layer is, probably, the easiest of these tools to get to grips with. Once you’ve created the layer, all that you have to do is find the drop-down box and choose either: whites, neutrals or blacks. (Because this article is discussing black and white images, you can discard all of the color options for now.)

    Selective color in processing black and white images.

    With the Selective Color tool, you have a fair degree of control over your highlights, mid-tones, and shadows. Just move the Black slider in the relevant box. This doesn’t give the amount of control that other methods do, but it’s quick and intuitive.

    With any of those three options selected, find the slider labeled ‘Black’ at the bottom of the dialogue box. Dragging this slider to the right will darken the relevant tones. Dragging it to the left will lighten them. Do this with all three (whites, neutrals, blacks) for every part of your image, and you will have a great deal of control over the tonality of your images with very little effort.

    As a bonus, if you’re still getting to grips with Layer Masks, the fact that the Selective Color tool adjust the highlights, mid-tones and Shadows independently within the dialogue box, means that you have a bit of local control over those three tonal ranges without having to use a layer mask at all.

    Curves

    The powerful Curves adjustment layer is another Photoshop staple that you should learn inside out early on.

    By manipulating the curve in the dialogue box, you will gain absolute control over every minute aspect of contrast and tonal range in your image. Combine this tool with Layer Masks, and you have a solution that will get you through most situations.

    Curves in processing black and white images.

    Here you can see the image before I applied the Curves layer.

     

    Curves in processing black and white images.

    After applying the slightest of S curves, you can see just how much a difference was made to the image.

     

    In terms of processing black and white images, the Curves tool will allow you to increase or reduce contrast as you see fit. Because it is a complicated tool with a lot of nuances (it will take a fair amount of time for you to get to grips with it beyond a simple S curve), do spend plenty of time practicing and reading up on how to get the most out of this tool.

    Gradient Map

    The Gradient Map tool is another complicated, but powerful, option for controlling the tones in your images. You can use the Gradient Map to do the actual conversion of your image to black and white, but that’s only the start. Note, that you can use the Gradient Map after you’ve done a conversion using any other method and that is what is being described here.

    In the Gradient Editor (with the black and white gradient selected) you have a few options. Click on the slider at either side (the black or the white) and a mid-tone marker will appear. Dragging this left or right will adjust the position of the gradient and it will have a drastic effect on how the tones in your image appear.

    Gradient map in processing black and white images.

    With the black and white gradient selected in the Gradient Editor, you can see that there has already been a huge increase in contrast.

    If you click anywhere in the middle of the gradient in the gradient editor, it will add another marker that you can use to set the tonal point anywhere in the gradient. This also gives you new midpoint markers between these points. Using these tools, you can control the contrast in the various parts of your images’ tonality in one fell swoop.

    Gradient map in processing black and white images.

    Circled in red, you can see the midpoint slider that will allow you to position the position of the gradient in terms of the tones in your image. Underlined, you can move these slider to control where the black and white point of the gradient starts. Move these inwards to increase contrast.

    Combine these options with Layer Masks and you have yet another powerful tool that gives you complete control over how your final black and white images turn out.

    Gradient map in processing black and white images.

    By adding a third point in the gradient, you can control the exact tone that appears. It also gives you two midpoint sliders to play with.

    The end

    Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

    Alongside other retouching tools, using these tools (on their own or in concert with one another) can give you a great deal of fine control over your black and white images.

    With these tools, you should see that you have a lot of options when it comes to processing black and white photos after the conversion process. By taking full control of the tonality of your black and white images, you will be able to create images with plenty of impact and fine-tuned contrast. It’s important to note that the concept of local adjustments applies to a lot more than tonality and you can use them for any type of adjustment you can think of in Photoshop. For example, you can sharpen an area of fine detail (like hair) in your image for emphasis without applying that to your subject’s skin.

    Do you have any other tips for processing black and white images in Photoshop? If so, please share them with us in the comments. Also, please try these methods out and share your resulting images with us in the comments section.

    The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


    Digital Photography School

  • MSI Creator 17 is the world’s first laptop with a Mini LED HDR 1000 display

    In late December and again during CES 2020, MSI introduced a laptop designed specifically for graphics professionals: the MSI Creator 17 (not the be confused with the company’s Creator 17M model). This is the world’s first laptop to feature a Mini LED display that meets the HDR 1000 standard, making it ideal for photographers, filmmakers and others who work in visual professions.

    Though the MSI Creator 17 isn’t yet available and hasn’t been fully detailed at this time, the company did discuss its new display technology in detail during CES. According to MSI, the Creator 17 features a 4K 17in display with 1,000 nits brightness, 240 local dimming zones and Mini LED backlighting.

    Mini LED display technology has thus far only been offered in select television models, but it is expected to expand into the smartphone and laptop markets in coming years. The MSI Creator 17’s display offers 100% DCI-P3 coverage, plus MSI says that its display is ‘immune to burn-in problems.’

    A simulated graphic from MSI showing the advantages of Mini LED technology.

    Among other things, MSI says buyers can expect ‘close-to-real color accuracy’ from the laptop’s 4K display, as well as the power efficiency and thinness that come with the technology. Most of the Creator 17 specifications have not been revealed at this time, but MSI did reveal that its new model will feature a USB-C port for powering up to 8K displays and the fastest UHS-III SD card reader currently available on the market.

    Pricing and availability are unknown at this time.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Nikon D3500 review

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    Introduction:

    The Nikon D3500 is a 24 megapixel entry-level DSLR with an APS-C CMOS sensor, that is cheaper, lighter, and has a longer battery life than the D3400 that it replaced. It was designed with the new photographer in mind and features a Guide Mode that will essentially teach you how to shoot in various situations.

    Key specifications:

    • 24 megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor
    • EXPEED 4 image processor
    • ISO range of 100-25600
    • 11-point autofocus system through the optical viewfinder
    • Shoots continuously at 5 frames per second
    • Capable of ‘Full HD’ 1080/60p video
    • Bluetooth for image transfer
    • 921k fixed LCD screen
    • Battery rated for 1,550 shots per charge (CIPA)

    The D3500 is available with an MSRP of $ 499.95 with the AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR, and $ 849.95 with the 18-55mm and an AF-P DX NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED.

    What is it?

    Out-of-camera JPEG
    Nikon 18-55 F3.5-5.6 lens @ 23mm | ISO 400 | 1/125 sec | F5
    Photo by: Jeanette Moses

    It can be admittedly hard to get excited about entry-level DSLRs: they’re bulky compared to mirrorless cameras and can be somewhat limiting in some respects, but for beginners they are a great place to start. The Nikon D3400 that this camera replaces was always very good, and the 24 megapixel sensor inside the D3500 is still one of the best APS-C sensors around.

    This is a camera that a brand-new photographer can pick up and start making decent pictures without a steep learning curve

    The D3500’s Guide Mode puts it into an ‘easy-to-use’ space in the market. This mode makes it easy to tell the camera what kind of scene you are trying to capture and essentially teaches you the basics of photography, such as shutter speed, aperture and exposure compensation along the way. This is a camera that a brand new photographer can pick up and start making decent pictures without a steep learning curve.

    It’s not as simple as shooting with a smartphone, but the image quality is better than you’ll get from your phone in a whole lot of situations: especially if you are shooting with a fast prime lens. The D3500 is also a great deal. You can pick this one up with a lens for under $ 500, making it incredibly appealing for newbie photographers.

    Nikon’s 35mm F1.8 DX lens is an excellent companion to the D3500.

    We spent time with the D3500 around Brooklyn with the standard 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR kit lens and an additional 35mm f/1.8G DX Nikkor lens.

    What’s new?

    Although this is a very compact DSLR, you’ll never forget that it’s hanging off your shoulder: DSLRs can only be so small. As a result of its form factor, though, the camera’s hand grip is still substantial and comfortable. The camera’s back buttons have been reorganized, so that everything sits on the right side of the camera within easy reach.

    Nikon omitted a ‘Fn’ button on the back of the D3500 in an effort to keep the user operation simple.

    The D3500’s battery life has increased by thirty percent and has a CIPA rating of 1550 shots. That’s a lot of photos, and these ratings much lower than you’ll usually see in the real world. Expect to be able to get through nearly a week of casual shooting and image reviewing without having to charge up.

    The biggest changes here are the inclusion of the Guide Mode menu, making it easy for entry level photographers to capture a variety of scenes. In ‘easy operation’ mode shooters can select options like ‘moving subjects’ and the camera will automatically adjust to this mode. ‘Advanced operation’ lets shooters refine settings like shutter speed, aperture and ISO.

    What stands out about the camera?

    The D3500 is so compact and lightweight that, as someone who usually uses a higher-end body, it felt a little bit like shooting with a toy. It’s comfortable for a full day of shooting, but like most entry-level cameras, it has a body that feels like it could easily get dinged-up if you aren’t careful. Of course the benefit is that its lightweight, making it easy to take everywhere, but there were situations where I found myself thinking twice about shooting with it.

    Its lightweight, making it easy to take everywhere

    The camera’s menu systems were easy enough to navigate for changing settings, but the layout of the camera’s back buttons and dials left something to be desired. The grip itself is comfortable, but the redesigned layout of buttons makes the back and top of the camera a little cluttered. I found it difficult to change certain settings while my eye was to the viewfinder, especially while I was shooting in manual mode and attempting to adjust my aperture. Changing ISO is also a bit cumbersome. There is no dedicated ISO button so adjustments must be made by diving into the menus on the camera.

    The most compelling feature of the DSLR design is its optical viewfinder, which lets you see the world directly through the camera’s lens.

    One of the consequences of the DSLR design is that the D3500 only offers eleven autofocus points, all clustered fairly near the middle of the frame. As you learn and grow with the camera, you might find this limiting. The autofocus system on the camera feels quite dated, even for an entry-level camera. It has a hard time keeping up in low-light situations and when your eye is to the viewfinder it can be a little difficult to tell which point is selected. Pressing the shutter down half-way to initiate autofocus before firing a shot shows you what point is selected, but the red dot only appears for half a second, is quite faint, and occasionally will trigger a red glow from other spots in the viewfinder.

    Face-detection AF only works in Live View mode, where the rear screen is used to frame up your photo, instead of the viewfinder and although it reacts quickly in sunny conditions, indoors it got laggy seemed to have trouble keeping up. There is no touch-screen functionality on the 921k LCD screen, which can be a little frustrating if you’re used to shooting mirrorless or with a phone. Another unfamiliar (but minor) annoyance could be that the optical viewfinder only covers 95 percent of the frame. It’s pretty standard for an entry-level DSLR like this, but means it’s hard to precisely judge what is and isn’t in the edges of your photo.

    The AF does a fine job when you have a static subject, but with something fast moving you will probably have to learn to pre-focus at the point you expect the subject to arrive at, which may require some trial-and-error.

    The camera’s ‘Guide’ mode tries to help teach you the camera’s functions and how to get the most out of it.

    The camera’s image quality is beautiful on the low end of the ISO range and just fine up to about ISO 6400. On the higher end of the range things start to deteriorate. We didn’t love the amount of noise that we were seeing on files shot at ISO 12800.

    The battery life on the D3500 is amazing, though. It will effectively last for days at a time if you shoot through the optical viewfinder: longer than its predecessor or mirrorless cameras. You can’t charge over USB, which is disappointing, but during our time with the camera we didn’t even notice a percentage drop on the battery.

    Although the Guide Mode can be incredibly helpful for new photographers, we didn’t find the camera quite as dependable as we’d like. Unlike mirrorless cameras, which use their main sensor to assess exposure, the D3500 uses a small, dedicated metering sensor. We found the results to be more inconsistent than we’ve become used to, with photos that were too bright or too dark. And, because we were looking through an optical viewfinder, we only found this out once we’d taken the shot: making it hard to preemptively apply exposure compensation to correct this.

    Out of camera JPEG.
    Nikon DX 35mm F1.8 G | ISO 100 | 1/500 sec | F3.2
    Photo by: Jeanette Moses

    The camera lacks Wi-Fi and uses a much slower Bluetooth connection to transfer images, via Nikon’s SnapBridge app. You can transfer 2 megapixel versions from the camera to your smartphone automatically or one at a time, but it takes a while. And if you want access to the full resolution images that the camera is capable of shooting, which you absolutely should, you are simply better off waiting to unload files onto your computer, or smart device using a memory-card reader.

    Because it’s a DSLR, you have to flip the mirror up, block the optical viewfinder and use live-view mode to shoot video. The D3500’s video capability tops out at Full HD at 1080/60p, which seems odd considering that 4K seems to be baked into everything hitting the market, but is also likely one of the reasons that the D3500 is so accessible when it comes to price. It’s fine for short clips, but it does feel like a bit of an afterthought. This is a camera that is far more capable for handling stills photography and you would probably be better off shooting video with your smartphone.

    Although the experience of shooting with the camera was just okay, the images that it produced were good quality, especially when considering the low price for the kit.

    Conclusion

    The D3500 is a capable camera available as a competitive price, and is very small for a DSLR.

    Ultimately the D3500 is a very capable and affordable camera for beginners and young families. It does a fine job capturing ‘candids’ and other casual shots. Although the Guide Mode leaves something to be desired for seasoned shooters, it does offer a non-intimidating way to learn about some of the more technical aspects of photography.

    The autofocus on the camera can be a bit limited—especially if you are dealing with tricky lighting situations or very fast moving subjects. It isn’t the most fun camera to shoot with, but the image quality is good. The 24-megapixel sensor and EXPEED 4 image processor make for high-quality frames that would look great as prints.

    D3500 is an affordable camera that is simple enough to not be intimidating

    If you are looking to capture a lot of movies with your camera you will probably want to look elsewhere, as the D3500 is a camera that was made for primarily capturing stills. It is just fine for short clips, but there are much better options on the market for video making. We don’t love the outdated 11-point AF system, the lack of a touchscreen or the cluttered nature of the back buttons. Having a dedicated ISO button on the back of the camera would have been a worthy addition here.

    Overall the D3500 is an affordable camera that is simple enough to not be intimidating, but features enough tech that a young photographer could grow into it. The D3500 probably won’t be a ‘forever’ camera, but it’s a solid place to start.


    Sample galleries:

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    Scoring

    Scoring is relative only to the other cameras in the same category. Click here to learn about the changes to our scoring system and what these numbers mean.

    Nikon D3500
    Category: Entry Level Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR
    Build quality
    Ergonomics & handling
    Features
    Metering & focus accuracy
    Image quality (raw)
    Image quality (jpeg)
    Low light / high ISO performance
    Viewfinder / screen rating
    Performance
    Movie / video mode
    Connectivity
    Value
    PoorExcellent
    Conclusion
    The D3500 is a compact and likeable DSLR for beginners. It's not great for video and its image transfer is slow. But for stills it's a solid choice
    and its Guide Mode makes it easy to learn.

    Good for
    Beginners who want the DSLR experience

    Not so good for
    Video shooters or anyone expecting a phone-like 'WYSIWYG' shooting experience.
    75%
    Overall score

    RegularScoreCompareWidget({“mainElementId”:”scoringWidget”,”mainProduct”:”nikon_d3500″,”scoringSchema”:{“id”:”SLRs”,”variables”:[{“id”:”BuildQuality”},{“id”:”ErgonomicsAndHandling”},{“id”:”Features”},{“id”:”MeteringAndFocusAccuracy”},{“id”:”QualityRaw”},{“id”:”QualityJpeg”},{“id”:”LowLightHighISO”},{“id”:”ViewfinderScreenRating”},{“id”:”Optics”},{“id”:”Performance”},{“id”:”Movie”},{“id”:”Connectivity”},{“id”:”Value”}],”categories”:[{“id”:”EntryLevel”,”label”:”Entry Level Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR”,”shortLabel”:”Entry Level”},{“id”:”MidRange”,”label”:”Mid Range Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR”,”shortLabel”:”Mid Level”},{“id”:”EntryLevelFullFrame”,”label”:”Entry Level Full Frame Camera”,”shortLabel”:”Entry Level Full Frame”},{“id”:”MidRangeFullFrame”,”label”:”Mid Range Full Frame Camera”,”shortLabel”:”Mid Range Full Frame”},{“id”:”SemiProfessional”,”label”:”Semi-professional Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR”,”shortLabel”:”Semi-professional”},{“id”:”SemiProfessionalFullFrame”,”label”:”Semi-professional Full Frame Camera”,”shortLabel”:”Semi-professional Full Frame”},{“id”:”Professional”,”label”:” Professional Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR”,”shortLabel”:”Professional”},{“id”:”LargeSensorCompactEntry”,”label”:”Entry Level Large Sensor Compact Camera”,”shortLabel”:”Entry Level Large Sensor Compact”},{“id”:”LargeSensorCompactEnthusiast”,”label”:”Enthusiast Large Sensor Compact Camera”,”shortLabel”:”Enthusiast Large Sensor Compact”},{“id”:”VideoCamera”,”label”:”Video Camera”,”shortLabel”:”Video Camera”}]},”helpText”:”Choose one or more cameras from the drop-down menu, then roll your mouse over the names to see how their scores compare to the camera on review.”})


    With thanks to Glazers Camera for lending us a D3500 for product photography.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • The Autel Evo II will come in three modular models, including two with 8K video

    Early last month, a forthcoming EVO II from Autel Robotics was revealed through an FCC filing. The portable follow up to the EVO officially launched at last week’s CES 2020 show. Drone and tech pundit OriginaldoBo made a prediction a week before the conference that this year, industry-dominating company DJI was not going to be the star of CES. Now we know why. Autel has introduced the very first 8K folding drone. The EVO II comes in 3 variants offering up 3 separate camera modules.

    • The standard Autel EVO II has an 8K, 48MP camera with a 1/2″ CMOS sensor. It can capture content at resolutions up to 8,000×6,000 pixels for photos, meaning you could print an image as large as 100 inches wide. Video resolution will max out at 7720×4320 pixels. It also features lossless, in-camera zoom up to 4x. Its weight at takeoff is 1,127 grams (about 2.5 pounds).
    • The EVO II Pro features a 20MP camera with a 1″ CMOS sensor, an adjustable aperture (ranging from f/2.8 to f/11), HDR, an ISO range of 100-12,800, and the ability to capture 6K video. The weight of EVO II Pro at takeoff is 1,174 grams (about 2.6 pounds).
    • The EVO II Dual boasts both a FLIR Boson sensor, with a thermal resolution up to 640×512, plus the same 8K camera that comes with the standard model. Takeoff weight for the EVO II Dual 320 is 1,157 grams (2.55 pounds) and 1,192 grams (2.62 pounds) for the EVO II Dual 640.

    All 3 cameras have a maximum bitrate of 120Mbps. They will also feature 10-bit color depth. Autel’s states on its official site that it will continue to update specs, as they become available, but they have not specified whether there is an H.264 or H.265 codec. Information on frame rates is also notably absent at the time of this writing. Each variant of the EVO II is modular. You can upgrade, downgrade, and switch out camera systems without having to purchase a new drone.

    The EVO II has a maximum flight time of 40 minutes and a transmission range of 9 km (5.6 miles). While most users will not need to fly this far, Autel states that a longer range ‘also means a stronger signal.’ It can operate at a maximum speed of 45 miles per hour (20.1 m/s). 12 AI-powered computer vision sensors give it omnidirectional obstacle avoidance that can also be disabled if the user wants full, uninterrupted control. 8GB of onboard storage is available with the option of adding an external microSD card up to 256GB.

    What drone enthusiasts and professionals, especially, will appreciate is that Autel does not equip its drones with geofencing. While the feature, found in all contemporary DJI models, prevents drones from flying into restricted areas, including controlled airspace, it can also create a major inconvenience if a pilot secures permission to fly in a designated area and is unable to unlock the zone as planned.

    The EVO II is currently in production. The EVO II is $ 1,495 and the EVO II Pro is $ 1,795. Those interested in purchasing an EVO II Dual will need to contact Autel for pricing. Availability and shipping dates will be announced soon, according to Autel’s official site.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Paul C. Buff launches LINK 800WS plug-and-play LED flash unit

    Paul C. Buff Inc., the company known for its professional lighting products, has introduced LINK 800WS, a new portable flash unit that features up to 800 watts of power, multiple shooting modes, 1 to 10 adjustable f-stops and a digital LCD. The product’s name refers to the company’s effort to link its ‘past products with currently photography needs,’ according to the PCB.

    The LINK 800WS flash unit is Paul C. Buff Inc.’s most powerful and versatile light ever launched. The product packs a daylight-balanced LED modeling light and detachable battery into an all-metal housing; the model supports umbrella rods up to 9mm and has a stand mount that supports up to 5/8in stands. The portable flash unit is fairly compact at 16.5cm x 12.1cm x 32cm (6.5in x 4.8in x 12.6in) with a weight of 3.9kg (8lbs, 7oz) including the battery.

    In addition to HSS / TTL modes, the LINK 800WS also features an Action Mode and a Color Mode. Other features include 3.5s recycle time, 8.8cm (3.5in) LCD, plug-and-play support for 100 to 240 voltages, +/- 100K color consistency at any power level, support for speeds up to 1/154,000s and an included magnetic rubber diffusion dome.

    The LINK 800WS is currently listed on the Paul C. Buff Inc. website for $ 895.95, but the company says it won’t be available to purchase until Spring 2020. The light will work with the new HUB remote and BUFF mobile app on iOS and Android. Buyers will have the option of choosing a LINK 800WS bundle that includes the flash, charger, battery, and the HUB remote for Nikon or Canon (or, later on, Sony) for $ 1,196.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 5 Tips for Becoming an Environmentally Conscious Photographer

    The post 5 Tips for Becoming an Environmentally Conscious Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

    environmentally-conscious-photographer-tips

    Being an environmentally conscious photographer should be on all of our minds. The world is changing irreversibly as a result of human intervention, and we need to consider carefully the impact that we make.

    Photography is a hobby that has traditionally not been kind to the environment. Manufacturing processes, film development, and the industry required to create digital cameras all take their toll on the planet. So to does travel by photographers seeking new subjects to photograph.

    But it is possible to be a photographer and still be considerate of the environment, helping to preserve it for future generations.

    environmentally conscious photographer

    ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f11, 1/180th sec

    See the beauty of your home area

    Many of us photographers can be guilty of lusting after exotic locations.

    We’re sold the dream that we’ll create photographs that are more special than we’ve ever shot before. But if we’re to be a more environmentally conscious photographer, cutting down on air travel is one of the biggest lifestyle changes we can make that will help the environment.

    Image: ISO1600, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/2000th sec

    ISO1600, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/2000th sec

    The truth is, people on the other side of the globe will see your local area as exotic and photogenic because it’s something that they’ve not experienced before. It does take a little more effort on your part to imagine how a visitor might see the surroundings that you see every day, but that can be part of the challenge and joy of photography!

    Every time you’re photographing locally, try and imagine it is the first time you’ve ever been there. Look for the small details that you might usually miss, and think about what would wow a visitor.

    Consider if you really need an upgrade

    I know – we all love a new piece of photography gear. But before you purchase an upgrade, consider if you really need something new. Manufacturing harms the environment because of the use of materials and chemical processes. So if you can delay that upgrade for a little while, you can ease the strain on our planet. Plus, how many megapixels do we really need anyway?

    environmentally conscious photographer

    ISO800, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f4.0, 1/320th sec

    If you really do need to upgrade, consider how you can pass along your old gear to someone who will use it so that they don’t have to purchase from new. Either sell it to someone looking for their own upgrade or pass it along to a friend who is getting started in photography.

    Both are better options for an environmentally conscious photographer than letting it languish unused on a shelf or ending up in a landfill site.

    Work with local people

    Many of us enjoy photographing people or getting lessons from experts. This often involves travel to visit models or the studios of photographers that are a considerable distance away.

    Image: ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/500th sec

    ISO200, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f1.4, 1/500th sec

    Instead of traveling these long distances, why not look at who is available locally that you could hire to photograph or learn from? You never know, you might discover a real gem in the process!

    Perhaps even try taking online classes and shooting some self-portraits – you might even love the results!

    And if you do really need to travel to someone or for them to travel to you, how about checking out public transport? It’s not feasible for every journey, but it does help to keep your environmental footprint to a minimum. You will have to learn to pack light, though!

    Find a low-impact genre of photography

    Really, it’s a bit like turning the lights off when you’re out of the room. If everybody did just a little bit towards helping the environment, we’d all make a big difference.

    Image: ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f5, 1/160th sec

    ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f5, 1/160th sec

    With that in mind, imagine if all photographers found a kind of photography that they could do locally that had almost no environmental impact at all? It wouldn’t have to replace all of the photography they loved, but if it just replaced a little bit, and everyone did something similar, then it could make a huge difference.

    Local street photography, tabletop still life, portraiture, and local architecture photography are all different genres that you can do with a minimum of equipment and environmental impact.

    If you love still life, you could explore the local farmers market for new objects to photograph. Or how about photographing ‘local heroes’ if you’re more into portrait photography?

    The opportunities are limitless for an environmentally conscious photographer, and they’re right on your doorstep. You don’t need to rack up the miles to create great images.

    Be mindful when you do enjoy the countryside

    If you are going out and about into nature to do photography, ensure that you’re knowledgeable about your surroundings. Be respectful of areas where animals and rare plant life might be living. Learn about the environment that you’re photographing and leave it clean and unbroken; this is what it means to be an environmentally conscious photographer.

    environmentally conscious photographer

    ISO400, 35mm (50mm equiv.), f2.8, 1/140th sec

    Perhaps even consider not sharing the location of incredible places you find with other photographers to prevent it from damage. Unfortunately, there will always be those who respect nature less than they should, leading to the damage of habitats that wildlife so desperately need in our world.

    It’s about everyone doing their bit

    The point is not to suck all of the fun out of photography. Not at all. But instead to raise awareness about the difference we could make.

    Photography can be an activity that is very taxing on the environment in many different ways. The key is to be aware of this fact and then, as photographers, make different decisions about our purchasing, traveling, and photographing habits.

    environmentally conscious photographer

    ISO200, 140mm (200mm equiv.), f3.2, 1/110th sec

    After all, what good is a box full of photographs of beautiful sights, if we have damaged those sights beyond all recognition? It would mean that future generations could not enjoy peaceful moments with their cameras in the same way that we have done.

    So I urge you to think about your approach to photography and consider if you can lessen your impact on the environment while learning more about it. And then see if you can persuade others to follow your example. That way, we can all work together, as environmentally conscious photographers, to help preserve our world for the future.

    Do you have any other tips you would like to share on becoming an environmentally conscious photographer? Please do so in the comments!

    The post 5 Tips for Becoming an Environmentally Conscious Photographer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


    Digital Photography School

  • Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens Review

    The post Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

    fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

    One of the reasons why I moved from DSLRs to the Fujifilm X-Series system a few years ago was because of the smaller, lighter camera bodies and lenses. So given that, it seems odd that I added the monster Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens to my kit. 

    fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

    Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens mounted on a tripod – it’s pretty big.

    At the time of its release in 2016, this was the biggest and heaviest line in the X-Series by far, being eclipsed in terms of size and weight only by the XF 200mm F2 R LM OIS WR lens in 2019. 

    So given its hefty size (and price tag), you might well wonder why I bought it? It’s really quite simple: I love telephoto lenses! 

    Given the option of a telephoto or an ultra-wide angle, I’d choose the telephoto every time. I love how you can pick out details of a scene with a telephoto to fill the frame. I also love how a telephoto lens gives the impression of “flattening” scenes – making faraway objects look close together. 

    Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens review

    In this review, I list the specifications of the 100-400mm lens, examine its build quality, handling, and optical performance, as well as discussing what it’s like to use and who would benefit from having it in their kit. 

    Image: This shot wouldn’t have been possible without a telephoto lens. I took a whole series of imag...

    This shot wouldn’t have been possible without a telephoto lens. I took a whole series of images of this cheeky guy sitting on top of a sunflower in Southern Queensland.

    Specifications

    The specifications of the Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens are truly impressive. Let’s have a look at what all those numbers and letters mean. 

    Fujinon is the brand name that Fujifilm use for their excellent lenses. XF denotes the high-performing lenses in the X-Series line-up. There is also a range of cheaper, yet very good value for money lenses with the letters XC on them. 

    fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

    The Manly Ferry gliding along Sydney Harbour in the morning. This ferry was a long way away. The reach of this lens is incredible.

    The next set of letters and numbers denotes the focal range of the lens: 100-400mm. As the X-Series bodies have APS-C sensors with a 1.5 crop factor, this gives the lens a full-frame equivalent focal range of approximately 150mm to 600mm. This is not just a telephoto zoom; this is a super-telephoto zoom.

    The next bit of information refers to the variable aperture of the lens: f/4.5-5.6. Like many zooms, the maximum aperture increases as you zoom in. At 100mm, the maximum aperture is f/4.5, at 200mm, it’s f/5, at 300mm, it’s f/5.2, and at 400mm, it’s f/5.6.

    The R denotes that, like the vast majority of X-Series lenses, it has a ring to control aperture on the lens barrel. This is a feature that I love so much. I’m so used to changing the aperture on the lens now, I’m not sure I could move back to a system where I couldn’t do that. 

    LM stands for linear motor – this ensures high speed autofocusing, quiet operation, and low power consumption. OIS stands for optical image stabilization – the linear motor checks for camera shake 8000 times a second. Fujifilm claims that the lens has a five-stop image stabilization system for shake-free results. 

    Image: Early morning on Sydney Harbour. I love how you can pick elements out of a scene and fill the...

    Early morning on Sydney Harbour. I love how you can pick elements out of a scene and fill the frame with a telephoto lens.

    WR stands for weather resistance. Paired with a WR body such as the Fujifilm X-T2 or X-T3, you can be confident using your kit in extreme environments where water and dust is an issue. You can use this lens in temperatures as low as -10°C. There’s a water-resistant fluorine coating applied to the front lens element, making it less susceptible to smudges and easier to clean. 

    fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

    Wallabies at Mt Cotton, Queensland.

    Build

    The build quality of this lens is very good, though it doesn’t feel quite in the same class as the other Fujinon red badge zoom lenses (the XF 16-55mm F2.8 R LM WR lens and the XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR lens). 

    This is probably because the superzoom is made of high-grade plastic rather than metal. I’m guessing that an all-metal barrel would’ve made the lens too heavy, so you can understand the choice here. 

    Only the mounting ring and tripod collar are metal. You can easily remove the tripod collar if you don’t need it. The lens hood is plastic but features a filter door, which allows you to rotate a circular polarizing filter, for example. 

    Image: I love how telephoto lenses make faraway objects look close together. Mountain ranges on the...

    I love how telephoto lenses make faraway objects look close together. Mountain ranges on the Queensland/New South Wales border in Australia.

    The lens weighs 1.375kg and takes 77mm filters. It’s compatible with both the 1.4x and 2.0x X-Series teleconverters, giving you the potential to shoot at up to 852mm and 1218mm in full-frame equivalent terms. However, this comes at the cost of 1 and 2 stops of light, respectively. 

    Handling

    Okay, so this lens is big…so big that it makes the 50-140 look compact, and most other lenses in the X-Series line up look tiny. The first time you pick it up, it does feel bulky but compared to many other lenses of this focal range, it’s definitely on the lighter side. 

    fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

    Yep, it’s a whopper! Yet it’s still possible to hold the lens in one hand with relative comfort. I have the lens extended to 400mm here.

    The length of the lens, especially when zoomed in, is quite large, and it dwarfs the size of the camera body. Yet there is a surprisingly comfortable balance when shooting with it. In fact, the lens feels lighter in my hands than it does when I carry it around in my backpack.

    The zoom action is very smooth – you can move the entire range easily while supporting the weight of the lens. Like almost every other X-Series lens, there is a ring around the lens that changes aperture in third stop clicks. The variable aperture of this zoom means there are no aperture markings around the barrel like the 50-140 or any of the prime lenses. Instead, you need to check aperture in the viewfinder or LCD. 

    There are three switches down the side of the lens. The first is a switch that controls the range of the zoom. The two options are for full range (1.75m to infinity) and 5 meters to infinity. The latter allows for faster focusing. 

    The next switch down is for controlling the aperture manually or automatically – something that all Fujifilm zoom lenses have. 

    fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

    The three switches on the side of the 100-400mm lens.

    The third switch is to turn optical image stabilization (OIS) on or off. OIS is a godsend for handheld shooting: the lens is capable of taking some incredibly sharp images at relatively low shutter speeds. Typically, you would turn OIS off when the lens is in use on a tripod, but you may want to experiment with this. 

    For example, when I was taking photos of the Sydney Opera House at the Vivid Festival, I was shooting from the footpath on the Cahill Expressway. There were minute vibrations from the traffic, so I felt that I was getting better images with OIS turned on. 

    Further up the lens barrel, there is a lock switch which will prevent lens creep as it stops the lens moving past 100mm. 

    Image: OIS is a godsend, sometimes even when shooting on a tripod. Sydney Opera House during Vivid F...

    OIS is a godsend, sometimes even when shooting on a tripod. Sydney Opera House during Vivid Festival.

    Image quality

    Fujifilm is one of the world’s best lens makers, so as you’d expect, the optical quality of this lens is excellent. It’s capable of producing stunning images across the focal range. However, I did get the feeling my images zoomed all the way in at 400mm were not quite as sharp as those taken towards the wider end of the zoom. 

    Image: I took the lens to a local speedway and was impressed with the results.

    I took the lens to a local speedway and was impressed with the results.

    Shooting handheld, the lens feels nicely balanced. I’ve used it for cityscapes, sports, wildlife and landscapes. Autofocus is very good, especially when used in conjunction with the X-T2 or X-T3’s continuous focus and tracking options. 

    When I first got the lens, I took it to a local speedway to test out. Given that it was the first time I’d shot motorsports, I was very impressed with the images I took with this lens. It has a cool feature when it detects panning: it automatically switches camera shake correction to the vertical plane only. 

    The lens also has a very pleasing bokeh. While I’ve never used it for portraits, with many of my wildlife photos, the out-of-focus areas in the background look beautiful and don’t detract from the images. 

    fujifilm-fujinon-XF-100-400mm-lens-review

    Sunflowers in Southern Queensland. I love the bokeh that this lens produces.

    Conclusion

    If you love a superzoom, there is only one option with the Fujifilm X-Series at the moment, and what a choice it is: the Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens.

    Suited to wildlife and sports shooters primarily, the lens can also be used by landscape and cityscape photographers. The lens has a fantastic range of features, including weather resistance and OIS. It is relatively light for a lens with this range and has excellent optics. 

    Image: A superzoom gives you the option of shooting sports you wouldn’t be able to with a shorter zo...

    A superzoom gives you the option of shooting sports you wouldn’t be able to with a shorter zoom.

    Overall, I would say that the lens is good value for money, though perhaps not as good as other lenses in the X-Series line-up. The price of the lens has stayed steady since its release. However, you can sometimes get discounts or cashback offers, substantially bringing down the cost. 

    I have no hesitation recommending the Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens. Just writing the review and looking at the photos it produces makes me want to get out and use it right now. 

    The post Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.


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