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Photokina 2020 is cancelled due to COVID-19, but is set for a May 2022 return

19 Mar

It’s confirmed—just three weeks after announcing everything was set to go on as scheduled, Photokina 2020 has been canceled. In an email sent to DPReview, Koelnmesse GmbH, the organizers of the international trade show, announced the event won’t be taking place this year, due to ongoing concerns and restrictions put in place due to the COVID-19 pandemic, as well as other factors.

While the writing was on the wall for Photokina 2020, with CP+ being canceled and The Photography Show being postponed, Koelnmesse notes the recent restrictions put in place by the German federal government to shut down trade fairs and exhibitions amidst the COVID-19 pandemic sealed its fate. Koelnmesse says the next iteration of Photokina will take place in May 2022 and lists the following factors as the rationale for canceling this year’s event:

‘Even before the appearance of the coronavirus, the imaging market was already subject to strongly dynamic movements. This trend will now gain momentum and must be factored into plans for the upcoming photokina. Added to this is the fact that our customers’ resources are already under heavy strain in 2021 – as a result of general economic trends as well as rescheduled events on the global trade fair calendar. The orientation towards 2022 gives everyone involved time enough to design the next photokina with an eye to the needs of the market, and of our exhibitors and visitors.’

Below is the full statement from Koelnmesse GmbH:

Photokina 2020 is cancelled

After intensive consultation, Koelnmesse GmbH has decided to cancel photokina 2020, originally planned to be held 27 to 30 May 2020. The next instalment of the leading international trade fair for photography, video and imaging will be presented from 18 to 21 May 2022. The Imaging Innovation Conference will not be celebrating its première in 2020 as originally planned; a new date will be coordinated.

In general the management team of Koelnmesse has decided not to organise any own events on the part of Koelnmesse until the end of June 2020. This decision is supported by the crisis management team of the City of Cologne, which also recommended in its meeting on 18.03.2020 to cancel the trade fairs during this period.

This also happens against the background of the agreement reached on 16.03.2020 between the German federal government and the governments of the German states – laying down common guidelines for dealing with the coronavirus epidemic and explicitly including the general closure of trade fairs and exhibitions. This impairs the planning security for Koelnmesse and the participants of the trade fairs in Cologne far beyond the scope of the current scenarios. With this early announcement, Koelnmesse wants to give its exhibitors and visitors planning security.

The decision not to host the next edition of photokina until May 2022 was made with in view of several factors: Even before the appearance of the coronavirus, the imaging market was already subject to strongly dynamic movements. This trend will now gain momentum and must be factored into plans for the upcoming photokina. Added to this is the fact that our customers’ resources are already under heavy strain in 2021 – as a result of general economic trends as well as rescheduled events on the global trade fair calendar. The orientation towards 2022 gives everyone involved time enough to design the next photokina with an eye to the needs of the market, and of our exhibitors and visitors.

Kai Hillebrandt, Chairman of the Photo Industry Association [Photoindustrie-Verband e.V. (PIV)]: “It goes without saying that PIV completely stands behind the decision taken by Koelnmesse to cancel photokina 2020. The health of exhibitors and visitors is top priority at the moment. As the conceptual sponsor of photokina, we will do our utmost to assist the Koelnmesse with the planning of the next edition of photokina.”

Koelnmesse – Global Competence in Digital Media, Entertainment and Mobility: Koelnmesse is an international leader in organising trade fairs in the Digital Media, Entertainment and Mobility segments. Trade fairs like photokina, DMEXCO, gamescom, gamescom asia, INTERMOT and THE TIRE COLOGNE are established as leading international trade fairs. Koelnmesse not only organises trade fairs in these areas in Cologne, but also in other growth markets like, for example, China, Singapore and Thailand, which have different areas of focus and content. These global activities offer customers of Koelnmesse tailor-made events in different markets, which guarantee sustainable and international business.

Note for editorial offices:
photokina photos are available in our image database on the Internet at www.photokina.com in the “News” section. Press information is available at: www.photokina.com/Pressinformation

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Apple reveals new iPad Pro and Magic Keyboard with trackpad, hinge

19 Mar

Apple has unveiled its latest iPad Pro model. The tablet, as recent leaks first revealed, is joined by a new backlit Magic Keyboard with a built-in trackpad. Unlike the Smart Folio keyboard, the new Magic Keyboard for iPad Pro has a floating hinge design, offering users a more familiar laptop-like experience.

The iPad gained support for trackpads in iPadOS 13.4, according to Apple, finally giving users the experience they’ve been requesting for years. With the trackpad and hinge on the Magic Keyboard, iPad Pro owners can rapidly toggle from touch and gesture control to more traditional keyboard and trackpad control. The new option enables the iPad Pro to better function as a laptop replacement for owners who are tired of carrying both, but who grow weary of repeatedly lifting their arm to tap and swipe on the display.

Apple has repeatedly presented the iPad Pro as a highly capable device that could, for many consumers, serve as a laptop replacement. The lack of mouse support was the device’s biggest stumbling block in this regard, however — even a top Apple executive had acknowledged that having to use a touch screen in place of a trackpad was ‘a pretty fatiguing thing to do.’

Apple says that it ‘completely reimagined’ trackpad use for the iPad rather than copying it straight from macOS. ‘As users move their fingers across the trackpad, the pointer elegantly transforms to highlight user interface elements,’ the company explained in its announcement today. The trackpad includes support for Multi-Touch gestures, as well, eliminating the need for users to lift their hands to touch the display.

The new keyboard is joined by an updated iPad Pro model that features a more powerful A12Z Bionic chip with an eight-core GPU. Apple says its new hardware features ‘enhanced’ thermal architecture alongside tuned performance controllers and the company’s Neural Engine. Despite the performance boost, the new iPad Pro features up to 10 hours of battery life.

Other iPad Pro features include gigabit-class LTE connectivity, faster WiFi, an edge-to-edge Liquid Retina display with 120Hz refresh rate and 11in / 12.9in size options. The screen boasts P3 color support, the True Tone color management system and an anti-reflective coating. Apple has also packed a dual rear camera system into the new iPad Pro with 12MP Wide and 10MP Ultra Wide cameras; they’re joined by ‘studio-quality’ microphones and a LiDAR Scanner for what Apple says will be ‘a whole new class of AR experiences.’

In addition to the new iPad Pro and keyboard, Apple has also revealed an updated MacBook Air with double the storage and faster performance, as well as a new Magic Keyboard — the same one introduced on the 16in MacBook Pro. The new keyboard has a classic inverted ‘T’ arrow key design, plus there’s a new scissor mechanism with 1mm of key travel.

Rounding out the hardware announcements is an updated Mac mini with double the storage, putting the standard configuration at 256GB rather than 128GB. The 11in iPad Pro starts at $ 799, the 12.9in iPad Pro at $ 999, the new MacBook Air at $ 999 and the updated Mac mini at $ 799.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DPReview TV: Tamron 20mm F2.8 review

18 Mar

The Tamron 20mm F2.8 DI III OSD M1:2 lens for Sony E-mount boasts close-focusing capability and a 1:2 magnification ratio. It’s also incredibly affordable. Could this be a great wide angle macro lens for Sony shooters?

Also, subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

  • Introduction
  • Design and size
  • Sample images
  • Sharpness
  • Longitudinal chromatic aberration and bokeh
  • Macro use
  • Focus and lens breathing
  • Sunstars
  • Environmental portraits
  • Conclusion

Sample gallery from this episode

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_5427051876″,”galleryId”:”5427051876″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });
Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Mastering Aspect Ratios in Photography

18 Mar

The post Mastering Aspect Ratios in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Tim Gilbreath.

mastering aspect ratios in photography featured image

Aspect ratio is a phrase that you’d normally expect to hear when discussing movies or televisions, but as it is a measurement of image proportions, it’s also important in photography. It is also one of those things that is always there, even if you don’t think about it.

Aspect ratio in photography is a description of an image’s vertical and horizontal proportions expressed as two numbers separated by a colon, and composed of similar units of measurement, whether it be inches, centimeters, or feet.

You’ve seen these numbers before, such as 16:9, which is commonly known as widescreen format, and used to describe many TV’s and computer monitors.

16:9 would be an image (or in the case of a TV or monitor, a screen) that is 16 units wide and 9 units tall. Aspect ratio doesn’t describe actual size, as a 16:9 ratio could be 16 inches wide by 9 inches tall, or 16 feet wide and 9 feet tall. The numbers only describe the proportions.

aspect ratios in photography graphic

Although it’s not in the scope of this article, movies and film sometimes also use what’s known as cinema terminology to express aspect ratios, such as 1.85:1 (cinema standard widescreen) and 2.39:1 (anamorphic widescreen).

Although you can convert these expressions to standard ratios, for our purposes, we’ll only stick with standard x:y expressions that relate to camera sensors or photographic images.

So why are aspect ratios important to photography?

Primarily, they are important because every image we shoot, as well as every camera we shoot with, has a base aspect ratio. Our camera bases the aspect ratio on the proportions of the sensor, which you cannot change.

However, you can change the resulting image’s aspect ratio, and most importantly, you can change it for creative reasons.

There are actually two types of aspect ratio in photography we need to familiarize ourselves with; the aspect ratio of the camera we’re shooting with, and more importantly, the final aspect ratio we will present our image in.

We, of course, can change the latter in post-processing, for whatever reason we decide.

Some cameras also have settings that allow you to change aspect ratio in-camera before shooting, but this is made possible by the camera software cropping. It’s always better to change the ratio yourself and crop later in post-processing.

Why would we want to change the aspect ratio of a photo?

The main reason – composition.

Changing the aspect ratio in Photoshop or Lightroom is essentially cropping the image to a specific proportion that makes the photo more pleasing to the eye. A wide, sweeping shot of a beach and sky will not look as wide and sweeping in a standard 3:2 presentation as it would in a 16:9 widescreen format. Composing the image in widescreen proportions gives the scene a more open, cinematic feel.

Let’s take a look at the most popular aspect ratios in photography, and what they are commonly used for.

Breakdown of aspect ratios in photography

3:2 ratio

The 3:2 ratio is probably the most commonly used aspect ratio in photography, due to the fact that it is the standard proportions used with modern DSLR camera sensors.

The reason for this is because it is also the ratio used by classic 35mm film cameras. Digital camera sensors were originally designed to replicate that ratio.

aspect ratios in photography
An image captured with a DSLR in native 3:2 format. Modern DSLR cameras usually capture images in this format.
EXIF: Canon 60D, EF 50mm 1.8 II, 50mm, f/8, 1/100 sec, 800 ISO, Manual Mode

Before photography, artists generally used a set of proportions similar to this because of its visual appeal. The 3:2 format is a great general use ratio, and allows for a fairly wide feel while still capturing vertical elements of a scene.

4:3 ratio

The 4:3 ratio is a classic format that has its roots in digital point and shoot cameras, which were developed to basically match the proportions of video monitors of the time.

The format is used in point and shoots, many compact cameras, and micro four-thirds systems.

Aspect ratio in photography - mushroom image in 4:3 format.
The 4:3 format allows for more vertical space and can better focus attention in on a specific area of a scene. Here we’ve used the 4:3 ratio to remove distracting portions of the scene and isolating the flower and mushroom.
EXIF: Canon 60D, EF 50mm 1.8 II, 50mm, f/8, 1/100 sec, 800 ISO, Manual Mode

Just as with old TV and video monitors, the 4:3 format has a taller, slimmer look that appears more square to the eye. It is a good creative choice when you need to capture vertical elements of a scene.

16:9 ratio

The 16:9 ratio is more commonly known as the “widescreen” format.

It was developed as a replacement for the old 4:3 ratio during the advent and implementation of HDTV. Most TV’s and monitors now are created with this format in mind.

The longer, more horizontal format is great for displaying landscapes and other vistas, and creates a cinematic look and feel when used in photography.

aspect ratios in photography - empty beach scene
This image is expansive in native 3:2 format, and contains too much empty space.
EXIF: Canon 60D, EFS 24mm 2.8 STM, 24mm, f/8, 1/320 sec, 250 ISO, Manual Mode
Aspect ratio in photography - beach scene in 16:9 format.
Adjusting the aspect ratio to 16:9 allows for a much more flowing, cinematic look and feel. This format is especially good for displaying wide fields of view.
EXIF: Canon 60D, EFS 24mm 2.8 STM, 24mm, f/8, 1/320 sec, 250 ISO, Manual Mode

1:1 ratio

The 1:1 ratio, or square format, might be mistaken as a newer format, as it is well-known for its use on the Instagram platform (although photos are no longer forced in that format with the service). However, square images are also the usual ratio for medium-format cameras, as well as a few toy cameras.

This format is a good choice for cropping close and isolating a subject or a scene that doesn’t involve an expansive landscape.

Aspect ratio in photography - mushroom image in 1:1 (square) format.
Returning to our mushroom photo, the 1:1 (or square) format lets us crop in close to a particular subject and remove any distracting elements. Here, we are focusing on the mushroom itself, and nothing else.
EXIF: Canon 60D, EF 50mm 1.8 II, 50mm, f/8, 1/100 sec, 800 ISO, Manual Mode

5:4 ratio

The 5:4 ratio formatted images are primarily used in large-format photography, as many of those cameras use sheet film with dimensions of 5×4 inches.

From a creative standpoint, images using this ratio are almost as tall as they are wide, and are great for capturing vertical elements of a scene.

Aspect ratio in photography - mushroom image in 5:4 format.
The 5:4 ratio is very similar to the 4:3. Again, we can use it to remove distracting elements on the sides of a scene.
EXIF: Canon 60D, EF 50mm 1.8 II, 50mm, f/8, 1/100 sec, 800 ISO, Manual Mode

2:3 ratio

Finally, the 2:3 ratio is a specialty aspect ratio that is used for images in vertical or portrait orientation.

It is primarily used for portraiture, when elements of the scene (in most cases, a person), align in a vertical orientation.

You can also use vertical formats like 2:3 for landscape photography to capture tall elements within the frame, such as trees and mountains.

aspect ratios in photography - a forest full of trees in the 2:3 ratio
This image was framed and captured vertically, and later cropped in post-production to 2:3 format, to accentuate the height of the trees and the vertical expansiveness in the scene.
EXIF: Canon 60D, EFS 24mm 2.8 STM, 24mm, f/8, 1/80, 400 ISO, Manual Mode

Creative cropping

Before the advent of digital photography and software, aspect ratios of the camera being used generally dictated what ratio the image would be in.

In the digital age, however, we have the ability to simply and quickly crop in whatever photo software we’re using.

Changing aspect ratio in Adobe Lightroom.
Changing aspect ratio of an image in Adobe Lightroom. Not only are several presets available to you, but you can enter a custom ratio as well.

Conclusion

Instead of being bound to a specific format, you can change it. Therefore, changing the look and feel of an image for creative reasons, even after pressing the shutter and recording the image on the sensor.

So now you know a little more about aspect ratios in photography, and why it’s important. What formats do you find yourself using? Do you alter the aspect ratio during post-production? Leave us your comments below!

The post Mastering Aspect Ratios in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Tim Gilbreath.


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How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

18 Mar

The post How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Theodomentis Lucia.

How to repair corrupted videos featured image

Earlier today, I thought about playing some videos that I shot on my digital camera during my last vacation. Sadly, every time I tried to play them on VLC or Windows Media Player, I got a gray or green display on the screen instead. I realized that my videos were corrupt and thought of digging up and finding an ideal solution for it. To be honest, after some failed attempts, I was finally able to repair my corrupted videos. If you have also encountered a similar situation in the past, then you may learn something from my experience.

Read on to find out how.

What could have caused your videos to become corrupt?

Before we head into the details on how to repair corrupted videos, it is important to discuss a few things in advance. You should know the major reasons why a video gets corrupt or damaged so that you can avoid it in the future.

These reasons include:

  • The transfer process of videos from your digital camera to the computer could be halted mid-transfer.
  • You may have restarted the system while the video was still playing in the background.
  • Sometimes, a third-party tool like a video editing software can also end up corrupting a file.
  • The location (drive or partition) where your video is stored could be corrupted.
  • The meta content or the header of the video might be tampered with as well.
  • If you have forcefully tried to change the video extension or type, then it can corrupt the file.
  • The audio-video components of the file might not be synced properly or could be missing.
  • You have played the video with an unsupported media player, or there could be an issue with the video encoding.
  • Other logical issues related to video playback, picture, sound, etc. can also cause this problem.
How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

How can you repair corrupted videos on Windows or Mac?

If your videos have been corrupted, then you need to look for the right tools to fix them. 

Since there are so many tools out there to repair corrupted videos, I asked a friend of mine, who is an expert in the field. He recommended Recoverit Video Repair, so I decided to give it a try as well. 

Ideally, Recoverit is a dedicated application to recover the lost or corrupt data of all kinds. However, it also has a dedicated video repairing tool that can fix various issues related to a video file.

After getting to know these features, I wanted to give Recoverit a try and found its click-through process pretty easy. 

Once you have installed the Recoverit Video Repair application, you can follow these steps to fix your corrupt files.

Steps to repair corrupted videos and files

Step 1: Launch the Video Repair tool

If you have some videos to fix, then just launch the Recoverit application on your system and launch the “Video Repair” tool from its home page. Also, attach your digital camera to the computer and move your damaged videos to the system.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

Step 2: Add corrupt videos to repair

Once you launch the Recoverit Video Repair application, you can just click on the “add” button to load the corrupted videos.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

This will further launch a browser window, letting you locate and load the videos that are damaged. If you want, you can load multiple videos and repair them at the same time.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide - Adding the videos screenshot

Step 3: Start the repairing process

After you have added the corrupted videos to the application, the interface will let you know. You can view the details of the added videos and even remove them from here. 

If you are ready, then just click on the “Repair” button to commence the repairing process.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

Step 4: Wait for the repairing process to be over

As soon as you click on the “Repair” button, the application starts fixing the loaded videos and displays the progress. Kindly be patient as of now and let the application complete the process.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide - waiting for the repair process screenshot

Once the repairing process is completed, Recoverit will let you know by displaying the following prompt.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

Step 5: View the repaired videos

You can now preview the results of the repaired process by clicking on the play icon adjacent to the video.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide - View repaired videos screenshot

This opens a pop-up window with a video player that will let you play the repaired video. In this way, you can check the results of the application before saving the videos.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

Step 6: Save the repaired videos

If you are satisfied with the results, then click on the “Save to Folder” button right next to the video. 

If you want, you can also click on the “Save All” button to save all the videos. This opens a browser window, letting you select a secure location to save the videos.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

Step 7: Run an advanced video repair (optional)

In the case that you are not satisfied with the standard video repairing results, then click on the Advanced Video Repair feature, which you can find at the bottom of the video player.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide - Advanced video repair screenshot

To run an advanced repair, you need to load a sample video to the application. The sample video should be shot on the same device as the corrupted video and must be in the same format. 

After loading the sample video, you can start the advanced video repair process and view its results as well.

How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide

Conclusion

When using Recoverit, it’s easy to repair corrupted videos. Recoverit is able to fix all sorts of issues related to videos like missing fragments, gray/green screens, video not loading error, and so on and supports a wide range of video formats like MOV, AVI, FLV, 3GP, MP4, MKV, MTS, and more. It can fix all kinds of videos shot on a wide range of devices like digital cameras, drones, camcorders, and smartphones.

The video repair tool is available in three different purchase options – $ 29.95 a month, $ 39.95 a year, or $ 49.95 (lifetime purchase) for the Windows version. If you get it now, you can get 30% off Recoverit for windows or 30% off for mac.

Download and Get 30% off Recoverit video repair now by using the exclusive coupon code: LENOP09

Disclaimer: Recoverit is a dPS paid partner.

The post How to Repair Corrupted Videos Shot on Digital Cameras and Other Devices: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Theodomentis Lucia.


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Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits

18 Mar

The post Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

dragging the shutter for creative portraits featured image

There are a lot of great techniques that allow you to add an element of movement or other visual interest to your images at the time of capture. Some of these include multiple exposures, multiple flash exposures and placing objects in front of your lens.

Dragging the shutter while using flash is another one of these techniques and it’s very easy to use.

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Dragging the shutter when using flash is an easy and fun technique to add some interesting effects to your photos. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Dragging the shutter

While it might sound complicated, dragging the shutter is simply using a slower shutter speed than you normally would while using flash.

With flash, your exposure is dictated by your aperture as the flash fires at a much, much faster speed than the sync speed on your camera.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
On the left, you can see the image with just flash. On the right, the shutter speed was changed to 1 second allowing the camera to record the modelling light throughout the exposure. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1/60 sec (Right: 1 sec), f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

By slowing your shutter speed down, you are allowing your camera to record ambient light as well. You will still freeze anything lit by the flash in the frame, but anything lit by the ambient will be recorded with any movement from either the subject or yourself.

Be aware that because your shutter speed is now allowing ambient light to record in your frame, your exposure will be brighter than it was with just the flash recording.

What you need

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
You don’t need much to use this technique. These images were made with a medium-sized modifier on a strobe and a white reflector.
  • A camera with manual settings
  • A flash with a modeling light if in a dark studio
  • Another ambient source of light if you don’t have a modeling light (i.e. speedlights).

How to set it up

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
For a technique whose results can seem complicated, setting it up and getting started is quite straightforward. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1.6 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Step 1: Light and pose your subject as desired. Because this is the pose that the flash is going to record, treat it as you would a normal shot as this will be the main focus of your image.

Step 2: Choose your aperture.

You can either choose your aperture based on the effect you want and set the flash power accordingly, or you can meter your flash and choose your aperture based on that reading.

Step 3: Choose a shutter speed slow enough to allow your subject to move after the flash has fired. This is variable and will depend on how your subject reacts to the technique and the end result that you want. Somewhere between half a second and one second is a good start when dragging the shutter.

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Left: The shutter speed is 1 second. Right: A shutter speed of 2.5 seconds allowed for the subjects second pose to be recorded more clearly. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1sec (Right: 2.5 sec), f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Step 4: Make sure that your subject knows to change their pose as soon as the flash fires. Then hold that second pose (that’s one way to do it) until the shutter closes again.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
You are not limited to one movement. Here the subject move her head to each side on a verbal cue. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 2.5 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Step 5: Take a photo.

When the flash fires, it records the first pose your subject is in. After that, and after your subject moves, everything, including the movement and the second pose, is being recorded by the ambient light.

Step 6: Make adjustments.

Now that you have a test shot, you can evaluate how your image looks and adjust your shutter speed settings. Is your subject not moving fast enough or is the ambient not recording enough? Slow down your shutter speed. Is the ambient recording too much? Choose a faster shutter speed.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
Once you have a shot, evaluate it on the back of the camera and make, or instruct your subject to make, any adjustments to help get the desired effect. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

You can also tweak any instructions you’ve given your subject.

If their poses are too close together, ask them to make sure they’re moving further from their initial position. Are they moving so slow that they’re not arriving at the second pose before the shutter closes? Let them know, and show them the back of the camera.

Since dragging the shutter like this relies on so many variables, communication between you and your subject is key.

Step 7: Take some more.

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Dragging the shutter in this manner can be a tricky thing to get right. Keep going until you are sure you have something.

Dragging the shutter can be a very hit and miss technique. Take as many photos as you can to ensure that you get the result you are after.

Sometimes, magic happens and you might get it in the first few frames, but other times you’ll bang away at it for ages before everything seems to click. Since no two images will ever be the same, don’t be afraid to keep going until you’re confident with the result.

Step 8: Keep experimenting.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
When the subject realized that this stool spins, she suggested we see what it looks like. Experimenting like this is a good way to find something new. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1.6 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

There is so much that you can do with dragging the shutter like this. Instead of your subject moving their heads, have them hold their pose and cover their face with their hands once the flash has fired.

Instead of taking a second pose, have them keep moving their head for the duration of the exposure. Alternatively, instead of having your subject move, try moving the camera.

The choices are limitless. Not everything will work, but memory is cheap. Try it anyway and see what comes out.

In the end

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Dragging the shutter is not a complicated technique, but it is one that offers a wealth of opportunities if you like the effects it can provide. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Dragging the shutter with flash is a very easy technique to use, but it is unpredictable. That’s what makes it so fun. No matter what you do, no two images will be alike, so experiment a lot and see what you can come up with. If you have an idea that you don’t think will work, try it anyway. You’ll never know until you do.

Give this technique a try and share your results with us in the comments section below.

The post Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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Editorial: ‘The world is ending, why are you still writing about cameras?’

18 Mar
Office mascot and all-round Good Boy, Belvedere. Pictured in October, before we all had to pack up and work from home. Good times.

Well, here we are. It seems like a year ago that I was pulling alarming statistics together about the economic impact of the novel coronavirus outbreak, but in fact it’s only been two weeks.

Back then we were still working from our main office here in Seattle, and still mostly going about our normal lives. One of us was on vacation in New York, and one of us was preparing for a short holiday outside of the country. One of us was planning a wedding, in May. I can’t remember what I was doing, but I’m sure it was trivial – it normally is.

At the risk of adding more mud to the landslide of hyperbole that has so far characterized 2020, all of that now feels like a different world.

A couple of weeks ago, I was writing about how – whatever the long-term health impacts of COVID-19 on the global population turned out to be – the virus was ‘already’ having a devastating economic impact. On the photography industry specifically, but across the board. Things have moved quickly. With countries around the globe counting the human cost in terms of suspected cases, confirmed cases, and (sadly – inevitably) deaths, it’s obvious that we’re living in a changed reality.

Here on the west coast, we have the unwelcome distinction of being right in the middle of things in the USA at the moment. As a team, we’ve been working from home and for about two weeks now we’ve been virtually self-isolating. We’re following the guidance of WA state officials and our parent company, keeping ourselves to ourselves, and updating the site remotely from laptops and home computers.

You can expect to see current events reflected in our editorial coverage to some extent, but we’re not going to be plastering our homepage with articles about infection rates

We’re very lucky. We’re not among the thousands of hourly employees in the catering, travel and hospitality industries who are looking at multiple weeks stretching ahead without an income. We review cameras, not ocean cruises. But of course we all have friends and family who are out of work, and others that are employed in health and social care. Still others who are caring for vulnerable relatives. All of them are making sacrifices right now that hopefully the lucky ones among us will never have to fully understand.

We’re working. We can afford to pay our freelance writers, we’re still having the usual daily meetings, and thanks to the impressively high-resolution cameras in our computers and phones (they’re the future, if you hadn’t heard…) we all know a lot more about the state of each others’ respective ‘home offices’ than we’d probably like to. We’re writing, and editing, moderating comments and taking photos. Just like always. As I said, we’re lucky.

We’re doing these things because that’s what you expect us to do. Unlike many ‘tech’ sites, we have a fairly focused editorial remit. You can expect to see current events reflected in our editorial coverage to some extent, as they pertain to the world of photography, but we’re not going to be plastering our homepage with multiple articles about infection rates, death rates, emergency measures or vaccine research. It’s not what we’re good at, and it’s not why you come to our site. It’s not what we do.

Life will get back to normal, eventually, for most of us. Until it does (and with any luck long after it does) we’ll keep on working to bring you the best and most relevant news, analysis, opinion and of course in-depth reviews that we can. Without our daily readers, we wouldn’t be able to do what we’re doing. We need you, and we’re going to make sure that whatever else is going on, there will be plenty to distract you (and yes – if you must – plenty to argue about) on DPReview.

Stay safe, and stay in touch.

Barnaby Britton, Senior Editor, DPReview.com

On behalf of every member of the DPReview team:

Editorial:

Allison
Barney
Carey
Dan
Dale
Gannon
Jeff
Richard (B)
Rishi

DPRTV:

Chris
Jordan

Development:

Ram
Richard (L)
Vlad

Business:

Eugene
Scott

And of course, Belvedere.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm GF 50mm F3.5 impressions: an easy lens to love

18 Mar

Introduction

Fujifilm GF 50mm F3.5 | 1/60 sec | ISO 400 | F8

Adobe Camera Raw Settings: Adobe Color Landscape, Daylight WB, Highlights -25, Shadows +60, Vibrance -6, Sharpening 40, Luminance Noise Reduction 0, Color Noise Reduction 25

Over the past half-century, 50mm lenses, with a field of view that most closely approximates natural human vision, have reigned supreme as the classic ‘normal’ lens for 135 film and full-frame digital cameras. In the days before ubiquitous zoom lenses, 50mm primes were kitted with just about every 135 SLR on the market. If you’ve ever shot with a Canon AE-1, a Pentax K1000, or Olympus OM-1, there’s a better than 90% chance it had a 50mm lens on it.

In my nearly 30 years as a photographer, I’ve purchased a 50mm (or equivalent) prime for every camera system I’ve ever owned. Over the past 15 years of teaching photography, I’ve recommended the 50mm prime lens to literally thousands of students as the highest-quality, most-affordable, must-have upgrade for anyone getting ‘serious’ about photography.


Fujifilm GF 50mm F3.5 sample gallery

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The hard truth is, though, I’ve never truly loved shooting with any of my 50mm primes and they’ve tended to sit in the bag more often than my other lenses. For me, the ‘normal’ 50mm has always been a little boring and I find a 35mm or 40mm a little more interesting with a slightly wider-than-normal view that doesn’t really feel wide. Generally speaking, 40mm lenses also tend to be rather compact and you’ll find them on many classic fixed-lens rangefinders from the 1970’s including the legendary Canonet G-III QL17 and the Rollei 35. Canon’s current 40mm F2.8 ‘pancake’ lens is a lovely performer as well.

Speaking of 40mm (equivalent) lenses, I have to mention an old favorite of mine: the Panasonic Lumix 20mm F1.7 for Micro Four Thirds. This was one of the first MFT prime lenses, released in late 2009 alongside the wonderful Lumix GF1. Although a bit dated, the Lumix 20mm still holds up very well on my 20MP Olympus Pen-F.

Panasonic Lumix GF1 with 20mm F1.7

The Lumix 20mm also has at least one notable superpower: a close focusing limit of just 20cm, which is significantly closer than just about any non-macro-specific lens I’ve ever used. This very close focusing enables Micro Four Thirds to transcend its inherent depth-of-field limitations (or lack thereof) to produce images with extreme background blur, albeit limited to close subjects. The slightly wider-than-normal field of view also includes a bit more context, which can make ordinary junk-drawer-stuff visually interesting in a way that classic 100mm macro lenses can’t. In short, it’s just a very ‘arty’ lens that makes casual photography really fun for me. As a bonus, it happens to be very small and very sharp.

Fujifilm’s new 50mm F3.5

So when Fujifilm announced the new GF 50mm F3.5 for the GFX system, with its 40mm full-frame equivalent field of view, I got very excited. I imagined a larger version of the Lumix 20mm mated to an ultra high resolution medium format sensor. Is it a dream come true? Well, yes and no. Let me explain.

Fujifilm GF 50mm F3.5 | ISO 200 | 1/500 sec | F11
Adobe Camera Raw Settings: Adobe Color, Daylight WB, Exposure +0.5, Highlights -100, Shadows +100, Sharpening 40, Detail 10, Luminance Noise Reduction 0, Color Noise Reduction 25

I recently drove a 4500-mile loop from Seattle, WA to Santa Fe, NM and back. DPReview kindly loaned me their copy of the Fuji GF 50mm F3.5 to try out along the way, so I attached it to my own GFX 50R and hit the road. It wasn’t a photo-specific trip and I was pretty much always on the way to somewhere else so I didn’t get to shoot in ideal lighting conditions. The images from this road trip are a good example of the sort of casual shooting I might do with the lovely Olympus Pen-F and Lumix 20mm F1.7.

Here are my thoughts.

It’s still kind of big

Everyone writing about this GF 50mm has commented on how ‘tiny’ it is. Well it’s definitely smaller than Fujifilm’s other larger-than-full-frame GF lenses, but calling this a ‘tiny’ medium format lens seems a bit like describing a 16-passenger van as a ‘tiny’ bus. Yes, it’s the smallest Fujifilm GF lens to date, but it’s still larger than an old Hasselblad 80mm F2.8 or the wonderful Pentax 645 75mm F2.8, both of which have a larger aperture and were designed for even larger formats. Proportionally, the GFX 50R with 50mm F3.5 feels something like a Texas-sized version of the for-real tiny Pen-F and 20mm F1.7.

Inoffensive bokeh

In general, a lens’s maximum aperture affects its physical size and weight (and price). It’s clear that Fujifilm had compactness in mind here and I’m neither thrilled nor disappointed in the result. Honestly, I’d rather have a slightly larger F2.8 lens or a slightly smaller F4 lens. This lens’s maximum F3.5 aperture feels like a compromise nobody really asked for. Does it matter? Not much… F3.5 is fine. The half-stop either way would make very little difference in terms of light gathering or depth of field.

ISO 250 | 1/3200 sec | F3.5
ACR Settings: Default

ISO 250 | 1/250 sec | F11
ACR Settings: Default

My casual impression of the bokeh is that I generally like it. Perhaps it could be a bit smoother (more ‘beautiful’) in shots with busy foliage and smaller apertures, but there’s certainly nothing specifically negative to say about it. In all, the out of focus rendering is very nice, very clean, and very modern. Some people might even say ‘generic looking.’ It’s just not the sort of bokeh that really stands out in any particular way – but that’s not a bad thing.

It’s a darn good lens

Yes, as expected, it’s sharp. Very, very sharp. Fujifilm has claimed that all the GF lenses were designed for more than 100MP of resolution. I have no problem believing that statement. To be honest, I’d be shocked if anyone had a legitimate reason to be disappointed in the sharpness of any modern digital medium format lens. I feel obligated to note, however, that digital medium format should be held to a higher standard, particularly when you consider the physical size and weight (and cost) of such systems.

Does that mean this (and other GF lenses) are, in general, measurably sharper than all other lenses? Not necessarily. There are plenty of extremely sharp lenses for other systems. That said, even the best lenses are rarely the same sharpness across the frame at all apertures. When pixel-peeping at 100%, I was rather impressed to see essentially perfect sharpness all the way out to the extreme corners and I didn’t notice any practical difference in quality throughout the aperture range.

ISO 100 | 1/250 sec | F5.6
ACR Settings: Classic Chrome, Highlights -80, Shadows +20, WB Daylight, Sharpening 60, Detail 10

No lens corrections or transform adjustments.

ISO 100 | 1/60 sec | F11
ACR Settings: Classic Chrome, Highlights -80, Shadows +20, WB Daylight, Sharpening 60, Detail 10

No lens corrections or transform adjustments.

I don’t myself shoot charts or flat brick walls so I can’t comment scientifically on this lens’s ‘square-ness’ or lack of distortion. In my studio, I often capture flat artwork but 50mm is not a focal length I would ever use for that purpose. What I can say is that in the field, I didn’t notice any geometric distortion that would matter for a real subject.

I should also note that I couldn’t find any chromatic aberrations in any images I shot through this lens. I’d be extremely impressed if this were a smaller format lens, but again I expect nothing less from a modern medium format optical formula.

ISO 400 | 1/250 sec | F11
ACR Settings: Adobe Color, Highlights -50, Shadows +50, WB Daylight

The pine needles are impressively sharp and detailed even in the extreme corners. Note the total lack of color fringing.

ISO 100 | 1/500 sec | F8
ACR Settings: Adobe Color, Exposure +0.75, Highlights -70, Shadows +20, WB Daylight, Sharpening 60, Detail 10

No lens corrections or transform adjustments. Note the total lack of color fringing.

So is this the sharpest, cleanest lens in the world? I have no idea, and I don’t care. In my opinion, this lens (really any GF lens) is so close to practical perfection from corner to corner at almost any aperture, that discussion of inherent sharpness or distortion is virtually irrelevant. At this level, depth of field, diffraction, plane of focus, focus precision, and vibration are far more critical issues. If anyone is getting ‘soft’ rendering out of this system, it is almost certainly a result of technique, or in very rare cases, a manufacturing defect.

Fast, confident autofocus

On my GFX 50R, focusing from close to far with the 50mm seems faster than all my other GF prime lenses except the 23mm. The 45mm is just a bit slower. The 63mm feels noticeably sluggish by comparison. The most notable difference, though, is the surprisingly quiet confidence exhibited by this new 50mm. It locks on almost instantly with hardly any ‘wobble’ and a barely audible ‘zip’ sound. The 23mm is almost this good. The 110mm is slower of course, but surprisingly not far behind, considering the longer focal length and how much further the large glass elements must travel. The other primes all make significantly more noise and require a deeper in-out movement to lock on a subject.

The 50mm exhibits surprisingly quiet confidence

All in all, I’d say Fujifilm made the autofocus of this 50mm medium format lens feel a lot more like one of the better X-mount APS-C lenses than any other medium format lens I’ve used. It’s certainly faster than manual focus on Hasselblad V system lenses, faster than Pentax 645 AF lenses, and faster than Mamiya / Phase One AF lenses I’ve used in the past. It’s also faster than my Lumix 20mm on the Pen-F, though not nearly so fast as the best lenses from Canon, Nikon, or Olympus. But let’s put this into perspective… if you’re an event or sports shooter and ultra-fast autofocus is a primary concern, then medium format is NOT the droid you’re looking for. Full stop.

Close focus could be closer

The minimum focus distance of 55cm is really the only thing I find disappointing about this otherwise wonderful lens. In theory, Fujifilm’s 50mm F3.5 should have a full-frame depth-of-field equivalence of F2.8, which should blur backgrounds more than the Lumix 20mm’s full-frame depth-of-field equivalence of F3.4.

In reality, the GF 50mm just doesn’t focus close enough to win this particular contest. There were so many times when I wanted to get just a little closer than the GF 50mm would allow. If there’s enough time, attaching a Canon 500D close up filter can help you get a little closer, though I felt the +2 diopter of the Canon 500D was not quite enough to match the 20cm close focusing magic of the Lumix 20mm.

Fujifilm GFX 50R + GF50mm F3.5
ISO 800 | 1/60 sec | F3.5
Shot at minimum focus distance

Olympus PEN-F + Lumix G 20mm f/1.7 II
ISO 800 | 1/60 sec | F2.2
Shot at minimum focus distance

It would be easy to suggest simply cropping into the much higher resolution GFX image to match the close crop of the Pen-F. But even if you get to a similar crop with similar resolution, the physics of being closer to the subject produces a more dramatic perspective and depth of field rendering.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Virtual trade show from Cinema5D in the works to replace canceled NAB 2020 April event

18 Mar

The canceled NAB 2020 event will live on in the form of a ‘virtual trade show’ from Cinema5D, according to Johnnie Behiri and Nino Leitner. The team first revealed intentions to hold a virtual trade show in the place of NAB 2020 on March 12, stating at the time that they were approaching manufacturers about the plan.

As with Mobile World Congress, GDC and multiple other events before it, the NAB 2020 show originally scheduled to take place in April has been canceled. The announcement was made by NAB President and CEO Gordon Smith last week, who cited the ongoing coronavirus outbreaks as the reason for the cancellation.

In a statement to DPR, Behiri explained:

‘We were not shocked to hear that NAB was canceled because of the current developments, but we were surprised that no alternatives were offered to manufactures and visitors alike. Other canceled trade show events are moving to some kind of online event but NAB seems unable to do so too.’

GDC 2020 is one of the previously canceled events that is now holding online talks in substitution for the physical gathering. Cinema5D’s virtual trade show will be similar, according to Behiri, who said the talks will take place in hosted, moderated live streams on April 20 – 22 from 9 AM to 6 PM PST.

The hosted broadcasts will be mixed with prerecorded new product announcements and virtual studio talks with various guests; topics will include trends, new products and industry analyses. As well, Behiri says that the team plans to integrate streamed live press events from major manufacturers into the virtual trade show.

According to Behiri:

‘All of this is an evolving plan but we invite manufacturers to get in touch with us via our contact page to share NDAs about new products so we can interview them beforehand and align plans to integrate them into our coverage. We are also happy to consider working together with other online publications.’

Though the virtual trade show will attempt to offer ‘a bit’ of coverage on a broad range of subjects, Behiri says that it will focus on production tech aimed at aspiring and professional filmmakers.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Helping You the Way We Know Best During These Trying Times

18 Mar

The post Helping You the Way We Know Best During These Trying Times appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

Helping You the Way We Know Best During These Trying Times
Many people are stuck in their homes at the moment. So let’s make the most of it and do some photography! Image by dPS writer, Lily Sawyer

Let’s face it – we’ve all been stressed about the Coronavirus (covid-19).

For many people, they have had to self-isolate (including members of the dPS team). This can be anxiety-inducing and people can also start feeling isolated and down.

So we want to do what we do best. We want to give you all some photography exercises that you can do in and close to home. That way, you’ll get to focus on your creativity, keep the boredom at bay, and, hopefully, feel less stressed with life until this all starts to resolve itself.

How this will work is that each week over the next month (mid-week before our weekly newsletter goes out, starting tomorrow), we will publish a 7-day challenge. In this challenge, we will give you a challenge idea per day that you can do right within your own home or yard. We will also publish more articles on things you can photograph around the home, as well as some post-processing articles.

We care about our community and wish you all the best at this time. Please stay safe and keep in touch with us – whether by commenting on posts or heading over to our FB group where you can chat and share your photos.

Let us know if there is anything else you’d like to see here on dPS that will help you through these times too.

All the best,
Caz and the dPS team

The post Helping You the Way We Know Best During These Trying Times appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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