There are two main schools of thought when it comes to lighting. One is to light your subject in a way that is not grounded in reality but merely looks cool. And the other is to use lighting to translate the way your eye sees light into a way that your camera can better understand it.
That latter choice is the option we'll be exploring today in a walk-through of a sunset portrait of artist Wendy Ng for the Howard County Conservancy.
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Strobist
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Argineering has launched a Kickstarter campaign for RGKit Play, ‘the first-ever modular wireless motion control kit that allows creatives to add movement to their design and camera.’ The campaign has already eclipsed its $ 50,000 funding goal by more than $ 25,000 at the time of writing.
RGKit includes motors, accessories, light controllers, sensors and a phone application and aims to simplify the process of creating mechanical motion. Argineering states that RGKit Play can be used for tasks such as videography and stop motion. Using the accompanying application, you can use RGKit Play to perform tasks such as moving your camera and a product while recording product video, rotating your camera around a subject and more.
In order to maintain stable and smooth movement, the RGKit Play has built-in motion stability features. Through the app, the user has precise control over distance, time and speed. The Camera Slider can carry up to 11 lbs. (5kg) and moves at up to 2″ (5cm) per second.
Using RGKit Play appears very simple. You mount the kit’s modules and accessories to your camera and fire up the app. Without needing to code, you can create a customized sequence of movements while adjusting speed, acceleration, duration, delay and more. There is also an automatic mode available. Accessories include a camera slider, pusher, pulleys, rotator, arms, rotator mounting, clamps, adjustable arms and more.
RGKit Play’s price depends upon the selected kit. The beginner kit, which does not include the camera slider, starts at $ 190 USD. The camera slider first appears in the RGKit Play: Videographer kit. This kit starts at $ 740 with early bird pricing. The eventual retail price for the Videographer kit will be $ 999. RGKit Play is scheduled to start shipping to Kickstarter pledgers in June 2021. To learn more about the RGKit Play and get details on each component and available configurations, head to Kickstarter.
Via DIY Photography
Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition.
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| A Sony a6300 and an Edelkrone motorized slider: interesting marriage of technique and technology? |
Like a lot of people, I’ve always had an interest in macro photography, which unfortunately never really developed into anything more than the odd shot of a flower or two. Then a couple of years ago I sold my seldom used 100mm F2.8 Sony macro lens when I moved from Sony A- to Sony E-mount. At the time I thought my macro shooting days were behind me.
But then I became interested in focus stacking, which is a technique used to blend several images focused at different points so that the depth of field can be increased beyond that of a single image. It can be used for multiple types of shots, but is typically used with close-ups or macro images.
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| This watch shot was comprised of 50 images taken with a Sony a6300 and 18-55mm lens at F7.1. The camera was a set to 1/25th at ISO 100. The images were blended in Helicon Focus. |
About 18 months ago I bought a set of budget Neewer extension tubes to use with my Sony a7 III and Sony a6300. While not really specifically meant for 1:1 macro work, they come in handy when shooting product shots as they let you focus a lot closer to the product (as opposed to without them).
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| This pile of screws was shot 1:1 with the 7 Artisans 60mm Macro ( F8 at 1/60th and ISO 800). The 30 frames were then blended in Helicon focus. |
The other part of this equation is that I’ve been using Edelkrone equipment for a couple of years now and I’ve always been intrigued by the fact their small motorized slider (SliderOne V2 $ 499) has a minimum travel distance of 0.222 ?m. Could this be used for focus stacking in combination with a time lapse sequence?
Using a slider for focus stacking does present some potential problems. For starters, moving the entire camera could introduce errors with perspective and isometric distortion. However, I’m never one for the easy way out, so I decided to investigate further.
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| This stack of 30 images (55mm F8, 1/60th, ISO 800) was blended in Helicon Focus taken under constant LED lighting. |
Strictly speaking, focus stacking doesn’t require complicated equipment like a slider. Many digital cameras, including a variety of Olympus and Panasonic models, even offer the ability to do all the focus stacking internally by automatically re-focusing the lens and blending the images in-camera. But the slider and dedicated post-processing software allow for a far greater degree of control over the final image.
Additionally, if you’re not using those Olympus and Panasonic cameras, you don’t necessarily need to use a dedicated macro lens; a standard kit lens and some extension tubes can work very well to get you started. You do, however, need to manually refocus the image every time you take a shot so that at least part of the image is in focus each time. Your results can be a bit hit-or-miss if you do it this way, and the software to assemble the images can cost you some money.
Details of technique and equipment
I tried a few different setups for my images, but all of them included the slider and a Sony a6300. Initially I did try using the Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 with a set of Neewer extension tubes (NW-S-AF3A, 10 and 16mm $ 49.99) and some of the images can be seen here. I had to be a little more careful with the lighting when using these tubes as they don’t have internal felt flocking and can cause some lack of contrast and flare if not used carefully, due to internal reflections.
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| Inexpensive extension tubes can give you extra options for close up photography |
While the subject image was relatively large compared to the sensor, it wasn’t quite at a 1:1 ratio, it ended up being ~1:1.1 using both tubes at the closest focus for this lens. In all cases the lens was set to manual focus as was the camera, a careful juggling act was performed to get the right balance of light level, aperture, shutter speed and ISO. After a bit of experimentation I found that I needed to use an aperture of F8; this gave enough sharp areas of focus for each exposure without the need to increase the number of shots.
After a bit of experimentation I found that I needed to use an aperture of F8; this gave enough sharp areas of focus for each exposure without the need to increase the number of shots
I then decided it was time so see how a different macro would work with my setup, so I picked up the low cost 7 Artisans 60mm F2.8 ($ 159.00) to experiment with. This is a true 1:1 ratio lens with a de-clicked iris and manual focus-only. It’s incredibly well constructed with a metal body and allows a close-focus distance of 26cm (about 10.25 inches). It has no communication with the camera body so EXIF iris data is not available. It allows a working distance of 14cm and you can unscrew the lens hood to allow more light in if required.
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| This set of 30 images was shot with 2 flashes, at (F8, 1/100th, ISO 200) at 52mm with extension tubes. |
Of course setting up the shot is 90% of the work – aligning the camera and making sure the axis of movement is exactly perpendicular to the center of the object can take some time when you have a lot of axes of adjustment. Distortion can be mostly corrected for in post-production, but it also takes time.
Trying to eliminate dust, or at least as much of it as possible is also a major part of this sort of photography. I don’t mind the fix it in post attitude but I’d rather try and reduce the amount of work required.
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| This is about the maximum depth of field I could achieve as the tip of the key is close to exiting the frame. Blended in Photoshop, 60 images at F8, 1/60th, ISO 400. |
Lighting is also a key component. I always like to keep things simple so some of my photos were only lit with a single light, and some with up to three. The shot of the key is an example of where more light sources were needed to give more interesting reflections. The lighting of course is crucial and this also took significant time to get right. In the end, I settled on using constant LED lighting rather than flashes as I found they gave me more control.
In the end I settled on using constant LED lighting rather than flashes
After a bit of trial and error I settled on 30-60 shots for each set of exposures. The number of shots was based around the amount of movement of the slider; if you are only traveling a few millimeters then you can get away with 30 shots, but for other scenes – like the watch – I needed 60. Initially I tried 15 shots per move but when the focal planes were blended in software I found too many out of focus areas.
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| This slightly odd shot of styling gel on a CD is another 60 image stack (F8, 1/60th, ISO 320) processed in Helicon Focus. |
For post-processing I decided to try two different solutions: Photoshop, i.e. something that most people are familiar with, and Helicon Focus, a dedicated piece of software. I also chose to work with Raw files. My PC setup for this was by no means high end, I used a self-built Windows 10 PC with 32GB of RAM and a Ryzen 1700X CPU and stored the photos on a 500GB SATA SSD.
For post-processing I decided to try two different solutions: Photoshop, i.e. something that most people are familiar with and Helicon Focus, a dedicated piece of software
I started with Adobe Photoshop ($ 9.99 a month for a 12 month subscription). You can use Adobe Lightroom to apply adjustments to each Raw image globally and then import them as separate layers into Photoshop. I then aligned the images using the auto-align function and then I had to auto-blend all the layers into one. This was a few too many steps for my liking. It is possible to load Raw files directly as an image stack using the built-in script option, but then you still need to auto-blend the images and correct for any exposure changes you want to make.
It would take around 2-3 minutes to load 60 Raw images and align them it then took an additional 2-3 minutes to produce the final image. It was then possible to tweak layers that didn’t quite work by cloning data from layers above or below.
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| A set of 60 shots at F8, 1/160th at ISO 640 with the 7 Artisans 60mm 1:1 macro. The raw result from Photoshop, an uncropped image showing areas that couldn’t be blended without errors | The Raw Helicon focus result – auto cropped by the software, although this can be turned off. |
I also wanted to see what Helicon Focus could offer. The basic Lite package costs $ 30 per month or $ 115 for a lifetime license. It works a little differently than Photoshop. Loading the images can be done directly from the Raw files with basic development settings set up within Helicon Focus itself. I found that the time taken to load 30 Raw images was significantly reduced compared to Photoshop, around 5-10 seconds to load and 3-4 minutes to blend the final picture. After the initial compilation of the image it would then take only about 20-30 seconds to render any subsequent adjustments to the algorithms.
I found that the time taken to load 30 raw images into Helicon Focus was significantly reduced compared to PS
Helicon focus offers three ways of blending the images (weighted average, depth map and pyramid) and also a couple of sliders (radius and smoothing) to help tweak the final result. Helicon exposes to the user what it is doing as it draws a depth map from your images, something that was fascinating to watch, a bit like seeing images from a scanning electron microscope. Like Photoshop you can also clone data between image layers but I found that most of the time Helicon produced a better image or at least one that could be improved by adjusting the algorithm and some of the parameters without the need for cloning.
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| The depth map that Helicon Focus produces can be adjusted with the radius and smoothing sliders |
It’s also very easy to compare the results from the three different algorithms as Helicon gives you a timeline at the bottom of the main window which allows you to look at your session history. You can then easily choose to view any of the versions you have created and see which one works best.
By default Helicon will automatically crop the final image (although this can be changed in the settings). Photoshop makes geometric adjustments and either leaves transparent areas of the image or gives you the option to content aware fill these areas.
Which software should you use? It comes down to what sort of photographer you are
Over all, I found that Helicon’s interpolation is better, and useful if you have fewer images – although it can’t work miracles. Although its Raw development options are limited, you can load images directly from Lightroom.
So which software should you use? I think it comes down to what sort of photographer you are. If you want to make minute adjustments to your image, then Helicon Focus is probably the tool for you, otherwise, Photoshop works fine.
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| The parts of the petals closest to the camera are causing blending problems here, that’s because they were never in focus. |
As a whole, I found that I needed more setup time than I had originally thought. Working at this scale can introduce errors that I was not able to see initially in the viewfinder or on the rear LCD. My advice is to shoot a few frames and then process, to see what adjustments you might have to make, rather than shooting hundreds of images only to find that they won’t work. Below are five other tips from my adventure in macro photography:
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The most important takeaway: shooting macro with a slider does work. It wasn’t perfect and I could definitely improve things, but it was a successful proof-of-concept.
Like anything, it takes time to get good results and this is achievable by careful setup combined with some experimentation. If you are thinking that focus stacking might be an area of interest for you, don’t think you need go off and purchase a motorized slider; manually changing your focus also works. However, you may find that the optical construction of some lenses (like the 7 Artisans 60mm) don’t allow manually re-focusing without the image size changing quite drastically thanks to focus breathing. If that is the case, a normal lens and some extension tubes may prove a better option.
As for me? I’ve been bitten by the macro bug again.
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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)
You have filled your iPhone with thousands and thousands of photos over the last few years. Its a nice catalog of memories but now its time to move on. You are looking for a quick and safe way to delete all the photos on your iPhone but dont know how. Don’t despair. In this article we will tell you the Continue Reading
The post How To Delete All Photos From iPhone Using iPhone, Mac or PC appeared first on Photodoto.
The current climate is not ideal for many businesses, particularly photographers. Without an outlet for work, it’s easy to ruminate on how you’re going to weather the storm. Going without work is not an option for many photographers, so what are the alternatives? Fortunately, there’s plenty you can do to pivot your business and retain your income. For example, increasing Continue Reading
The post Working From Home as a Photographer in the Current Climate: A No-Bull Guide appeared first on Photodoto.
Profoto has unveiled the A10, its third and latest round-head speedlight in its A1 lineup. Much like the A1X was nearly identical to the A1, the A10 is effectively an A1X with built-in Bluetooth and AirX technology for making the most of the speedlight, even with a smartphone.
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Profoto showed off its AirX technology back in July with its B10 and B10 Plus monolights, and more recently, its C1 and C1 Plus LED lights, but until now, it wasn’t available for its speedlights. The A10 changes that, making it easier to get pro-level lighting with your smartphone when using the compatible Profoto app (Android, iOS). Of course, the A10 will also work with other DSLR and mirrorless camera systems with dedicated models for Canon, Fujifilm, Nikon and Sony cameras.
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Aside from the new AirX Bluetooth syncing, none of the specifications have changed from the A1X. It features the same round-head design with support for Profoto’s Click Light Shaping tools, a large hi-res display for changing settings and navigating the menu, an LED modeling light, a maximum 76Ws output, a recycle time between 0.05–1 second and a built-in Li-ion battery rated for up to 450 full-power flashes.
Below is a video walkthrough of the A10 from Profoto:
The Profoto A10 is currently available to purchase for $ 1,095 (Adorama, B&H, Wex). Be sure to select the correct model for your camera brand when making a purchase. All units come with the flash, an included Li-ion battery, a charger, a dome diffuser, a bounce card, a stand, a dedicated bag and Profoto’s two-year limited warranty.
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Yesterday, Nikon released a beta version of its Webcam Utility software for macOS. Like the Windows version, released back on August 6, the macOS utility will allow owners of Nikon Z series and DSLR camera owners to use their compatible cameras as webcams with popular livestreaming and video conferencing software via USB.
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The macOS version of the Webcam Utility appears to function identically as the Windows version, complete with support for the following cameras: Z7, Z6, Z5, Z50, D6, D850, D780, D500, D7500 and D5600. The process is as simple as installing the utility, plugging in your camera via USB and selecting it as an input source with a compatible livestreaming or video conferencing program, such as Zoom, Google Teams, OBS Studio and others.
You can find out more information on the process at Nikon’s dedicated Webcam Utility page and download the Webcam Utility beta on Nikon’s website.
The post How to Achieve Dark and Dramatic Food Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.
Unless you’ve been under a rock for the last few years, you can’t have missed the growth of food portraits. They are everywhere, from the high-budget advertising of supermarkets and artisan food brands to amateur photographers on Instagram.
If you’re even slightly interested in food photography, wherever you look you’ll be presented with sensuous images of beautifully-styled food portraits. From burgers with perfectly placed drippy cheese to vintage-styled cakes laden with fruit, it sometimes seems that the photography world has gone food-mad.
One competition with a food portraiture category says that they want to see images of food that are “good enough to eat.” But a look through their gallery of previous competitions suggests something more.
Fujifilm X-T20 | Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R | 35mm | 1/50 sec | f/8.0 | ISO 200 | Window Light + Reflector
In food portraits, the food is the hero. It’s not about the farmer, the shop, or the packaging; the photograph is unapologetically about the food. And it should make you want to reach right into the picture and take a bite.
There are many styles of food portraits. Sometimes it’s about the hero ingredient and other times it’s about the finished dish. But it’s never about the person who made it or the place the food is being served.
Some photographers love a bright and airy feel to their images. Their shots wouldn’t look out of place in a designer loft apartment. Others prefer a darker-styled shot. And it’s this style that I’m going to focus on in this article.
(If you’d like some inspiration, just search “dark food photography” on Pinterest or Instagram and start scrolling.)
Not every piece of food makes for a great subject. If you’re shooting an ingredient before it’s prepared, then don’t be afraid to look for the most perfect or characterful examples you can find in the shop. Every flaw or imperfection will feel like it has been magnified by ten when you photograph it.
Of course, sometimes you might like to deviate from images of perfect ingredients! The potatoes I photographed in the pictures for this tutorial were delightfully gnarled. They come from a period in UK food production called “the hungry gap;” during this time, the last of the winter vegetables are on the table while we wait for the fresh spring produce. Always look for a story in your images.
If you’re planning on shooting a finished dish, then it needs to be plated both beautifully and creatively. This takes practice, and many professional photographers hire food stylists to help them with the job. Don’t be disheartened if it takes a while to get the hang of cooking and plating food that looks good in photographs (besides, you get to eat your attempts while you practice).
Take your time composing your scene. As you can see from the screenshot of my Lightroom catalog above, I knew roughly what I wanted from the start, but ended up making many minor adjustments to the potatoes I was photographing.
Don’t forget to think about your props and background. They are as much a part of the shot as the food itself. You can make your images even more unique by painting your own backdrops.
To shoot dark food portraits, you don’t need an elaborate, complicated, or expensive setup. These potatoes were simply shot on a tabletop with a painted background and a fake wooden surface. There is natural morning light coming from the left-hand side of the image. On the right, I positioned a piece of cardboard with some tinfoil wrapped around it to act as a reflector.
Once I’ve shot a photograph that I’m happy with, I like to apply a general Lightroom preset to add contrast and color grade the image. This kind of subtle color grading can really help to set your photo apart.
Changing the color tones in this way is something that people who aren’t photographers often don’t do with their images, and so it adds a more polished look in the eyes of many viewers.
Once I’ve set the basic color that I want in Adobe Lightroom, I open the image in Photoshop. Photoshop lets you use layers, which ultimately allows you to have greater control over the image you are creating.
The first thing I always do when I’m opening an image in Photoshop is apply some gentle sharpening. It just crisps up all the details so that you can get to work.
My method for this initial sharpening is to first duplicate the background layer. You’ll need to get a copy of your image onto a new layer in order for this method to work. You can right-click on the existing layer in the layers panel and choose “Duplicate Layer.”
Apply a high pass filter with a radius of about 1.5 on the new layer that you just created. The high pass filter is found in the “Filter” menu (look in “Other” at the bottom of the list). The radius you need will vary, but if you look closely at the image above, you’ll see that the “ghost” of the image is barely visible when you preview the effect that the high pass filter is having.
Once you’ve done this, set the layer’s blend mode to “Overlay,” and you should see the effect of the high pass filter that you just applied.
You can make dark food photographs really come alive by using dodge and burn creatively, and that’s the technique at the heart of the example image above.
Rather than using the dodge and burn tools built into Photoshop, try this method instead. First, create two new layers. Name one “Dodge” and one “Burn.” In the “New Layer” dialogue box, make sure that you check the option to fill the layer with an overlay-neutral colour and set the blending mode to “Overlay.”
Then, using a soft brush set to 100% opacity but with a low (2-3%) flow, you can start to bring the image to life. Use a black brush on the burn layer to deepen the shadows and a white brush on the dodge layer to brighten the highlights.
Go gently and try not to lose too much detail! The trick with dodging and burning is to build up the effect slowly. Use brushes and layers like a painter uses light and shadow to shape the food portraits that you have photographed.
You can always turn down the opacity of a layer if you go too far, or you can even delete it and start again altogether. If there’s just a small bit that you’re not happy with, you can apply a layer mask and just mask out that small section.
To finish off the image, I added a digital texture to the background and faded it until it was almost invisible. It had the effect of softening the painted backdrop slightly, which is a look I preferred.
This basic approach of editing colors in Lightroom (perhaps using a preset), sharpening the image in Photoshop, and then dodging and burning the photograph is one that can be applied to many different kinds of photographs.
I’ve used the same approach in architectural photography as well as portraits, but I feel that it really shines as a technique when it comes to dark and dramatic food portraits.
The post How to Achieve Dark and Dramatic Food Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.
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Canon has announced the EOS C70, a digital cinema camera with a body that resembles a mirrorless stills camera. Notably, the C70 uses Canon’s RF lens mount, making it the first Cinema EOS camera to adopt the company’s newest lens system.
The EOS C70 features a Super35 sensor using Canon’s next-generation Dual Gain Output (DGO) technology. The DGO sensor reads each pixel at two different gain levels, with one prioritizing saturation and highlight protection and the other suppressing noise in the shadows.
When combined, Canon claims the camera can deliver 16+ stops of dynamic range at up to DCI 4K/60p or 2K/120p (using a Super16 crop). It can also capture 4K/120p and 2K/180p without extended dynamic range. Recording choices include both All-I and intra-frame options using Canon’s XF-AVC or MP4 (H.265) codecs.
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Other features that should appeal to video shooters include dual-pixel autofocus, a motorized 10-stop ND filter, C-Log2/C-Log3, PQ and HLG gamma for HDR, two mini XLR mic inputs, thirteen customizable buttons, and custom in-camera LUTs.
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An air intake system provides cooling, allowing the camera to record for extended periods. The cooling system is outside the sealed part of the camera to prevent dust or moisture from reaching the electronics.
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The camera features a 3.5-inch 2.76M-dot rear LCD but not an electronic viewfinder. Presumably, Canon expects many Cinema EOS users to put the camera in a rig with their preferred EVF or external monitor.
Alongside the camera, Canon also announced the Canon Mount Adapter EF-EOS R 0.71x, which allows users to attach EF-mount lenses to the C70. Unlike Canon’s existing EF to EOS R adapters, the EF-EOS R 0.71x is an optical adapter that works like a speed booster, making it possible to use EF lenses on the smaller Super35 sensor at their intended focal lengths while increasing lens speed by one stop.
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The EOS C70 will be available in November for $ 5499. The EF-EOS R 0.71x adapter will follow in December for $ 599.
The First Cinema EOS Camera with an RF Mount, this New Compact and Lightweight Model Features a Super 35mm Dual Gain Output (DGO) Sensor, DIGIC DV7 Image Processor, ?and 16+ Stops of Total Dynamic Range
MELVILLE, N.Y., September 24, 2020 – Canon U.S.A., Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, is excited to announce the company’s first-ever RF mount Cinema EOS camera, the EOS C70 4K Digital Cinema Camera. When the Canon RF mount was first introduced, imaging professionals began to dream about the possibilities that this revolutionary mount system might provide them. One request that Canon consistently heard was to put an RF mount on a Cinema EOS camera so that future lens performance could capitalize on the short flange depth. Just two short years later, those wishes have come true with the new C70 camera.
The unique design of the EOS C70 camera puts a significant emphasis on operational convenience for the end-user. The small form-factor, weighing only 2.6lbs., allows the camera to be easily handheld and dramatically enhances a videographer’s mobility, providing a seamless bridge between the EOS and Cinema EOS families for cinematic applications. Cleverly designed, the camera features a slim, motorized ND filter unit – having a mere 6mm depth – that is built into the short flange back of the RF mount. The motorized 10-stop ND filter provides users with the flexibility to control exposure while keeping the desired depth-of-field and capturing images that feature the desired level of bokeh. Thirteen customizable buttons allow users to select from more than 80 functions to be assigned based on individual preferences.
“The Canon EOS C70 camera is truly a special tool that will undoubtedly satisfy and delight a variety of users on the search for a high-powered piece of video equipment,” said Tatsuro “Tony” Kano, Executive Vice President and General Manager of Canon U.S.A.’s Imaging Technologies & Communications Group. “In today’s fast-moving, ever-changing world of filmmaking and content creation, versatility is key, and the EOS C70 will provide a familiar form and feature set to our entire spectrum of imaging customers. We are eager to see how creatives use this tool and the projects that come from it.”
The camera features Canon’s innovative and next-generation Super 35mm DGO Sensor that further extends the high dynamic range and lowers noise levels by reading out each photodiode with two different gains. One gain prioritizes saturation – protecting detail in highlight areas – while the other suppresses noise in the shadows. The result is an image with up to 16-plus stops of total dynamic range, clean, rich shadows, and vibrant highlights in up to 4K/ 60p or 2K/120p in Super16mm Crop mode. The EOS C70 camera also features Canon’s recently developed DIGIC DV7 image processor that collects the extensive information captured from the DGO sensor and processes it into exceptional HDR imagery while offering choices between Canon Log 2 and 3, in addition to PQ and HLG gamma functionality. The C70 camera can also record 4K DCI or UHD up to 120fps and 2K DCI or HD up to 180 fps – with an important flexibility in the choice of codecs.
The camera supports XF-AVC format (in variable bit-rate) – both Intra and Long GOP with MXF file format. The intra-frame format compresses the data after analyzing each frame separately, while Long GOP format compresses data at a higher rate, creating an even smaller file size. A secondary choice is Long GOP 10-bit 4:2:2/4:2:0 MP4/HEVC (a next-generation HDR video recording compression standard) with an MP4 file format – a first in the Cinema EOS line.
The camera’s independent air intake system is separated from the electrical systems to protect the sensor from water, sand, and dust. In addition, the camera also features two air outlet vents that allow uninterrupted recording for extended periods of time.
Additional features of the Canon EOS C70 4K Digital Cinema Camera include:
Canon Mount Adapter EF-EOS R 0.71x
The Canon Mount Adapter EF-EOS R 0.71x is a new optical adapter that allows users to tap into Canon’s extensive collection of superb full-frame EF lenses when operating the EOS C70 camera. The adapter implements two critically important functions – preserving the similar FF wide angle image onto the 4K Super 35mm image sensor while simultaneously elevating the lens camera sensitivity by one stop. The mount adapter preserves full electronic communication between the lens and camera, enabling optical lens corrections and transfer of lens metadata between the EOS C70 camera and select Canon EF lenses*. ?
Price & Availability?
The Canon EOS C70 4K Digital Cinema Camera is scheduled to be available in November 2020 for an estimated retail price of $ 5499.00. The Canon Mount Adapter EF-EOS R 0.71x is scheduled to be available in December 2020 for an estimated retail price of $ 599.99**. For more information please visit cinemaeos.usa.canon.com.?
* Compatible EF lenses are EF16-35mm F2.8L III USM, EF24-70mm F2.8L II USM and EF24-105mm F4L IS II USM. As of September 24, 2020. Firmware update provided free of charge, compatibility will be added for additional EF lenses in the future. Even if you do not update the firmware, you can use the EF lens, but it is recommended to use the firmware update in order to effectively use the function linked with the camera.
** Specifications, availability and prices are subject to change without notice. Actual prices are set by individual dealers and may vary.
Have you ever dreamed of starting your own YouTube channel? In this video, we discuss the pros and cons of working of shooting from a studio vs. shooting in the field.
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