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Hasselblad’s new XH Converter 0.8 reduces focal length, increases aperture of HC/HCD lenses on X system cameras

03 Nov

Hasselblad has announced the XH Converter 0.8, a new Speedbooster-style adapter that makes it possible to use H system lenses on Hasselblad’s mirrorless X system while reducing the focal length by 0.8x and increasing the maximum aperture of the adapted lenses by two-thirds of a stop.

The XH Converter 0.8 works similarly to other focal length reduction adapters, such as Metabones’ popular Speedbooster line of adapters. Thanks to the extra flange distance going from a mirrored body to a mirrorless body, Hasselblad is able to pack not only the adapter components inside the unit, but also five optical elements in three groups. This differentiates the XH Converter 0.8 from Hasselblad’s previously-released XH Lens Adapter, which simply keeps the focal length and apertures the same across the board with adapted lenses.

Hasselblad has created a thorough chart showing what effective aperture and focal length compatible H system lenses would be when using them with this adapter on a Hasselblad X system camera:

Hasselblad has also shared a collection of sample images captured by photographer Tom Oldham on a 907X 50C using the XH Converter 0.8 with various lenses:

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As tends to be the case with many adapters, not all lenses can use all of the features. The XH Converter 0.8 requires all HC/HCD lenses with firmware version 18.0.0 or later to be updated to firmware version 19.1.0 if you want autofocus compatibility, with the exception of the HC 120 and HC 120 II, which are limited to manual focus mode.

Likewise, any HC/HCD lenses that weren’t updated to firmware version 18.0.0 can’t be updated to firmware version 19.1.0 due to hardware limitations and will therefore be limited to manual focus. Hasselblad does not that since HCD lenses ‘were originally designed for a smaller format than HC lenses […] some reduction of performance in extreme corners can occur.’

Firmware version 19.1.0 for various lenses can be downloaded on Hasselblad’s website.

Hasselblad cameras must also be updated to the latest firmware, The X1D 50C must be updated to firmware version 1.25.0 or later, while the X1D II 50C, 907X 50C and 907X Special Edition models require firmware version 1.4.0 or later to work with the adapter.

The XH Converter 0.8 is made in Sweden and is available today for $ 950 on Hasselblad’s online store.

Press release:

HASSELBLAD LAUNCHES XH CONVERTER 0,8 UNLOCKING A WHOLE NEW SET OF LENSES

The XH Converter 0,8 brings new opportunities to Hasselblad photographers with the ability to unlock a whole new set of H System lens capabilities. The XH Converter 0,8, used on HC/HCD lenses attached to an X System or 907X camera, reduces the focal length of the lens by a factor of 0,8x, which delivers a wider field of view and improves the maximum aperture of the lens by two-thirds of a stop. Additionally, the XH Converter 0,8 improves lens performance in terms of contrast and apparent sharpness across the entire frame.

An impressive combination for maximizing aperture is achieved when attaching the XH Converter 0,8 to the HC f/2,2 100mm lens, transforming the aperture and focal length to f/1,8 and 80mm, respectively. This creates an extremely large aperture that proves even faster than the XCD f/1,9 80mm lens, which until now has been the highest aperture lens option for X and 907X camera systems. An example of reducing focal length with the XH Converter 0,8 is when combined with the HCD f/4,8 24mm lens, it creates an aperture of f/3,8 with a 19mm focal length. This results in an even wider lens option than the existing XCD 21 lens, the widest lens in the X System.

The XH Converter 0,8 joins a range of Hasselblad adapters and converters, including the XH Lens Adapter which allows the usage of all 12 H System lenses as they are on X and 907X camera systems. The addition of the XH Converter 0,8 to the existing accessories lineup now provides these systems with enhanced functionality for H Lenses. In addition, H System users who decide to branch into the X or 907X systems gain more versatility from their current HC/HCD Lens options.

All H System lenses with firmware 18.0.0 or later must be updated to the newest version 19.1.0 to work with the XH Converter 0,8 and to get auto focus (HC 120 and HC 120 II can only be used in manual focus mode). Other H System lenses (except HC 120 and HC 120 II) with firmware older than 18.0.0 will work but only in manual focus mode. Please note that only HC/HCD lenses with firmware 18.0.0 or later can be updated to 19.1.0. Lenses with older firmware have older hardware and therefore cannot be updated. Additionally, the X1D-50c must be updated with firmware 1.25.0 or later and the X1D II 50C, 907X 50C and 907X Special Edition cameras must all be updated with firmware 1.4.0 or later.

The XH Converter 0,8 is available now for purchase with a MSRP of €959 / £859 including VAT and $ 944 excluding sales tax. See more at www.hasselblad.com/x-system-accessories/xh-converter-0-8/.

Download H System Lens Firmware Update 19.1.0 here.

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Roger Cicala: the difference between sample variation and a ‘bad copy’ (Part 1)

03 Nov
We fix a lot of lenses, but not all lenses can be fixed.

With the next two posts, I hope to end the seventh most common forum war; the ‘lens variation is a big problem!’ vs ‘I don’t believe it exists!’ argument. Like a lot of forum wars, it comes down to semantics: Variation and bad copies aren’t the same thing (actually they’re not really related at all), but people tend to use the terms interchangeably.

Even $ 2,000 lenses must have variation

Note that I said ‘must’. I didn’t say ‘might’ or ‘could’. I certainly didn’t say ‘shouldn’t at this price’. If you expect every copy of a lens to be perfect, then a dose of reality is in order – unreasonable expectations are a down payment on disappointment.

The key point is what amount of variation is acceptable.

Of course, I define ‘unacceptable’ by my standards. My standards are probably similar to 90% of your standards (and they’re higher than most manufacturer’s standards). A few of you will consider my standards either too low or too high. That’s reasonable. You and I might be looking at the same lens, but we’re doing different things with it, and probably doing them on different cameras. Later on, we’ll talk about the difference between ‘acceptable variation’ and a genuinely bad copy that I would consider unacceptable.

Why lenses must vary

Any manufactured part, from a washer on your kitchen faucet to a component in the Hubble telescope has some variation. Generally (up to a certain point – limited by the state of the technology) you can lower the variation of a part if you are willing to pay more. Why? Because entirely new machines or manufacturing processes may be required, and all of that costs money.

But just ordering more units means you can save money, right? Well yes – in very general terms, ordering larger quantities lowers per-unit costs, but in a fairly linear fashion. Doubling your order of something usually reduces the per-unit cost by some percentage, but certainly not by half. There is never a point where if you order a large enough quantity of an item you get it for free.

This is a 15 cm diameter, 1/10 wavelength optical flat, eyeglasses for scale.

As an example, we use optical flats to calibrate our test benches. The flats come in different accuracies: 1/4 , 1/10, or 1/20 wavelength of flatness. All of those are very flat indeed, and those accuracies cost $ 800, $ 2,200, and $ 3,800 respectively. There is no quantity I could buy that would let me get the 1/20 wavelength plates for the 1/4 wavelength price. And I can’t get 1/40 wavelength of flatness at any price. The technology simply isn’t available.

What varies in a lens? Everything. The screws, helicoids, plates, and spacers vary. Every glass melt is very slightly different, giving elements a very slightly different refractive index. Lens grinding introduces variation, as does the coating process. Even the shims that we use to adjust variance, they vary. And shims don’t come in infinite thicknesses, so if your thinnest shim is 0.01mm then +/- 0.01mm is your maximum attainable accuracy.

What can manufacturers do about this?

The first thing is tolerancing the design. Optical programs let the designers punch in various tolerances for parts, showing how a given variation will affect the overall performance of the lens. For the sake of argument, let’s say that one particular glass element is very critical and even a slight variation makes a big difference in how the lens resolves, while variation among other elements matters less. The manufacturer can pay to have that critical element made more accurately. They can also change the design to make the part less critical, but often only by sacrificing performance.

In addition, manufacturers can (notice I said ‘can’, not ‘always do’) place compensating elements in the lens, allowing for slight adjustments in tilt, spacing, and centering. Emphasis is on ‘compensating’, though: These adjustments compensate for the inevitable errors that accumulate in any manufactured device. They are not called ‘adjusted for absolute perfection’ elements.

The two most common types of lens adjustments: shims and eccentric collars.

Not all lenses are equally adjustable. Some modern lenses may have five to eight different adjustable elements. Many have two or three. A fair number have none at all; what you get is what you get. Here’s a thought experiment for you: imagine you’re an optical engineer and you’ve been tasked with making an inexpensive lens. Knowing that adjustable elements are an expensive thing to put in a lens, what would you do?

I want to emphasize that optical adjustments in a modern lens are not there so that the lens can be tweaked to perfection; the adjustments are compensatory. There are trade-offs. Imagine you’re a technician working on a lens. You can correct the tilt on this element, but maybe that messes up the spacing here. Correcting the spacing issue changes centering there. Correcting the centering messes up tilt again. Eventually, in this hypothetical case, after a lot of back-and-forth you would arrive at a combination of trade-offs; you made the tilt a lot better, but not perfect. That’s the best compromise you can get.

Because many people think of distributions as the classic ‘bell curve’ or ‘normal distribution’ let’s get that particular wrongness out of the way. If you evaluate a group of lenses for resolution and graph the results it does NOT come out to be a normal distribution with a nice bell curve.

Frequency graph of two lenses. For those of you tired of reading already, this graph sums up the rest of the article. The black lens is going to have more variation than the green one. Neither the black nor green graphs are at zero over there on the softest end, bad copies happen to either one, but not frequently.

As common sense tells you it should be, lenses have a very skewed distribution. No lens is manufactured better than the perfection of theoretical design. Most come out fairly close to this theoretic perfection, and some a little less close. Some lenses are fairly tightly grouped around the sharpest area like the green curve in the graph above, others more spread out, like the black one. The big takeaway from that is you can’t say things like ‘95% of copies will be within 2 standard deviations of the mean.’

The Math of Variation

Don’t freak out, it’s not hard math and there’s no test. Plus, it has real world implications; it will explain why there’s a difference between ‘expected variation – up to spec’ and ‘unacceptable copy – out of spec’.

There are several ways to look at the math but the Root Sum Square method is the one I find easiest to understand: you square all the errors of whatever type you’re considering, add all the squares together, then take the square root of the total.

The total gives you an idea of how far off from the perfect, theoretical design a given lens is. Let’s use a simple example, a hypothetical lens with ten elements and we’ll just look at the spacing of each element in nm. (If you want to skip the math, the summary is in bold words a couple of paragraphs down.)

If we say each element has a 2 micron variation, then the formula is ?10 X 22 = 6.32. If I make a sloppier lens, say each element varies by 3 microns, then ?10 X 32 = 9.48. Nothing dramatic here, looser control of variation makes higher root sum square.

The important thing happens if everything isn’t smooth and even. Instead of 10 elements worse by 1 micron, let’s make 1 element worse by 10 microns. I’ll do the math in two steps:

? (9 X 22) + (1 X 102) = ? (36 + 100) = ?136 = 11.66

The summary is this: If you vary one element a lot you get a huge increase in root sum square. If you spread that same total variation over several elements, you get only a moderate increase in root sum square. That is basically the difference between a bad copy and higher variation.

If you have just one really bad element the performance of the lens goes all to hell

The math reflects what we see in the real world. If you let all the elements in a lens vary a little bit, some copies are a little softer than others. Pixel peepers might tell, but most people won’t care. But if you have one really bad element (it can be more than one, but one is enough) the performance of the lens goes all to hell and you’re looking at a bad copy that nobody wants.

More real world: if one element is way out of wack, we can usually find it and fix it. If ten elements are a little bit out, not so much. In fact, trying to make it better usually makes it worse. (I know this from a lot of painful experience.)

What does this look like in the lab?

If you want to look at what I do when I set standards, here are the MTF graphs of multiple copies of two different 35mm F1.4 lenses. The dotted lines show the mean of all the samples; these are the numbers I give you when I publish the MTF of a lens. The colored area shows the range of acceptability. If the actual MTF of a lens falls within that range, it meets my standards.

Mean (lines) and range (area) for two 35mm lenses. The mean is pretty similar, but the lens on the right has more variation.

For those of you who noted the number of samples, 15 samples means 60 test runs, since each lens is tested at four rotations. The calculations for variation range include things about how much a lens varies itself (how different is the right upper quadrant from the left lower, etc.) as well as how much lenses vary between themselves and some other stuff that’s beyond the scope of this article.

So, in my lab, once we get these numbers we test all lenses over and over. If it falls in the expected range, it meets our standards. The range is variation; it’s what is basically inevitable for multiple copies of that lens. You can tell me I should only keep the ones that are above average if you want. Think about that for a bit, before you say it in the comments, though.

The math suggests a bad copy, one with something really out of whack, doesn’t fall in the range. That’s correct and usually it’s not even close. When a lens doesn’t make it, it REALLY doesn’t make it.

A copy that obviously doesn’t meet standards. The vast majority of the time, one of these can be adjusted to return to expected range.

We took that copy above, optically adjusted it, and afterwards it was right back in the expected range. So an out-of-spec copy can be fixed and brought back into range; we do that several times every day.

But we can’t optically adjust a lens that’s in the lower 1/3 of the range and put it into the upper 1/3, at least not often. Trust me, we’ve tried. That makes sense; if one thing is way out of line we can put it back. If a dozen things are a tiny bit out of line, well, not so much.

I know what you’re thinking

You’re thinking, ‘Roger, you’re obviously geeking out on this stuff, but does it make one damned bit of difference to me, a real photographer who gives zero shirts about your lab stuff? I want to see something real world’. OK, fine. here you go.

A Nikon 70-200mm F2.8 VR II lens is a really good lens with very low (for a zoom) variation. But if you drop it just right, the 9th element can actually pop out of its molded plastic holder a tiny bit without causing any obvious external damage. It doesn’t happen very often, but when it does, it always pops out about 0.5mm, which, in optical terms, is a huge amount. This is the ‘one bad element’ scenario outlined in our mathematical experiment earlier.

Below are images of the element popped out (left) and popped back in (right) and below each image is the picture taken by the lens in that condition. Any questions?

On top you see the 9th element ‘popped out’ (left) and replaced (right). Below each is the picture of a test chart made with the lens in that condition.

So, what did we learn today?

We learned that variation among lenses is not the same thing as ‘good’ and ‘bad’ copies. Some of you who’ve read my stuff for a long time might remember I used to put out a Variation Number on those graphs, but I stopped doing that years ago, because people kept assuming that the higher the variation, the higher their chances were of getting a bad copy, which isn’t true. You see, bad copies are – well, bad. Variation just causes slight differences.

I’m going to do a part II that will go into detail with examples about how much you should expect lenses to vary, what the difference is between variation and a genuinely bad copy, and why some people act like jerks on forums. Well, maybe just the first two.

As a bonus, I will tell you the horrifying story of how manufacturers optically adjust a lens that’s really not optically adjustable. And for a double bonus I will show how variation means that there are actually two versions of the classic Zeiss 21mm F2.8 Distagon.

In other words, if you struggled through this article, hopefully the next one will be enough fun that you think it’s worth it. Delayed gratification and all that…

Roger


Roger Cicala is the founder of Lensrentals.com. He started by writing about the history of photography a decade ago, but now mostly writes about the testing, construction and repair of lenses and cameras. He follows Josh Billings’ philosophy: “It’s better to know nothing than to know what ain’t so.”

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ISO Settings in Digital Photography

03 Nov

The post ISO Settings in Digital Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

What is ISO?

ISO is one of three important settings on your camera that are used to take well-exposed photos.

The other two fundamental settings are aperture and shutter speed – and if you’d like to learn about these settings, check out our introduction to aperture and our beginner’s guide to shutter speed.

An introduction to ISO settings in photography

We regularly get questions about ISO from readers of Digital Photography School like these:

  • What is ISO and why is it important?
  • What is the best ISO setting?
  • Should I always choose the lowest ISO?

In this short tutorial, I want to answer each question in turn.

Let’s start with a definition of ISO:

What is ISO?

ISO actually has two definitions, depending on whether you’re discussing film or digital photography:

ISO in traditional/film photography

In traditional (film) photography, ISO (or ASA) is an indication of how sensitive a film is to light.

In film photography, ISO is measured in numbers. You’ve probably seen them on film canisters: 100, 200, 400, 800, etc.

The lower the number, the lower the sensitivity of the film, and the finer the grain that will appear in your photos.

ISO in digital photography

In digital photography, ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor.

The same principles apply as in film photography:

The lower the number, the less sensitive your camera is to light and the finer the resulting grain.

Higher numbers mean your sensor is more sensitive to light, and this allows you to use your camera in darker situations. The cost of doing so is more grain – although cameras are improving all the time. Today, many cameras can use high ISO settings and still get very useable images.

Here’s a time when you might want to choose a higher ISO:

If you’re photographing an indoor sporting event where the light is low and your subject is moving fast.

In such a situation, by choosing a higher ISO, you can use a faster shutter speed to freeze the athletes’ movement.

ISO settings and grain

Choosing higher ISO settings comes with a serious cost:

The higher your ISO, the more grain or noise that appears in your photos.

I’ll illustrate this below with two enlargements. The image on the left was taken at ISO 100, and the image on the right was taken at ISO 3200.

A low ISO and a high ISO comparison

Can you see the difference? The high-ISO photo (right) is full of unpleasant noise, whereas the low-ISO photo (left) is completely clean.

ISO 100 is a “normal” or “standard” ISO on most cameras. It’ll give you lovely, crisp shots (with little to no noise or grain).

Most people tend to keep their digital cameras set to Auto mode, where the camera selects the appropriate ISO setting depending on the conditions you’re shooting in. However, most cameras also give you the opportunity to select your own ISO.

When you do override your camera to choose a specific ISO, you’ll notice that this impacts the aperture and shutter speed needed for a well-exposed shot.

For example:

If you bumped your ISO up from 100 to 400, you’ll notice that you can shoot at faster shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures.

Questions to ask when choosing ISO

When choosing my ISO setting, I generally ask myself the following four questions:

  1. Light – Is the subject well lit?
  2. Grain – Do I want a grainy shot or one without noise?
  3. Tripod – Am I using a tripod?
  4. Moving subject – Is my subject moving or stationary?

If there is plenty of light, I want little grain, I’m using a tripod, and/or my subject is stationary, then I will generally use a relatively low ISO rating.

If it’s dark, I want grain, I don’t have a tripod, and/or my subject is moving, I might consider increasing my ISO. This will enable me to shoot with a faster shutter speed and still expose the shot well.

Of course, the trade-off will be noisier shots.

Situations where you might need to push ISO higher include:

  • Indoor sports events, where your subject is moving fast, yet you have limited available light
  • Concerts, which are low in light and often “no-flash” zones
  • Art galleries, churches, and more, where there are rules against using a flash and the interiors aren’t especially well lit
  • Birthday parties, where blowing out the candles in a dark room can give you a nice, moody shot that would be ruined by a bright flash. Increasing the ISO can help capture the scene.

ISO is an important aspect of digital photography to have an understanding of if you want to gain more control over your digital camera. So experiment with different settings and how they impact your images. And in particular, learn more about aperture and shutter speed, which – along with ISO – are a part of the exposure triangle.

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The post ISO Settings in Digital Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


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iFixit discovers camera repairs for iPhone 12 models can’t be done by third-parties

03 Nov

Repair site iFixit has discovered that repairing the cameras inside Apple’s new iPhone 12 smartphones will not be able to be, at least easily, done by third parties, as removing the cameras requires access to a proprietary tool that only authorized Apple technicians will have access to.

While trying to swap the camera modules inside two iPhone 12 devices, iFixit suspected something was up. After ‘exhaustive testing, comparing notes with multiple repair technicians, and reviewing leaked Apple training documents,’ iFixit discovered ‘the iPhone 12 camera is entirely unreliable when swapped between iPhones.’

Image credit: iFixit

Below is a video from YouTuber Taylor Dixon, who also discovered this while attempting to swap cameras inside iPhone 12 devices:

This, of course, means any DIY fixes or even those by unauthorized third-party phone repair shops won’t be happening. The graphic below is a leaked chart from Apple that shows iPhone 12 models require an authorized technician to run ‘System Configuration’ to replace a camera module (or a display). Previously, these limitations were only in place for batteries.

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ON1 Photo RAW 2021 now available, includes Portrait AI, new selection tools and much more

03 Nov

After unveiling ON1 Photo RAW 2021 in September, ON1 has officially released the new software. ON1 describes the latest version of its flagship software a ‘hassle-free, professional photo organizer, raw processor, layered editor and effects app.’ ON1 promises its software is ‘perfect for those seeking an ultra-convenient all-in-one photo editing solution.’

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 includes numerous additions and improvements, including improved automatic AI adjustments, a new portrait editing workflow, improved color selection technology and much more.

The primary new feature is ON1 Portrait AI. This technology finds each face in a selected image and analyzes the photo to locate the eyes, mouth and skin to allow the user to make many quick adjustments, including frequency separation-based skin retouching and adjustments to lighting. ON1 states that ‘in a few simple clicks, you can quickly brighten up the eyes, whiten the teeth and make your subject glow with very little effort.’

Additional retouching tools added to ON1 Photo RAW 2021 include a new Spot Healing Brush tool. The non-destructive brush allows quick removal of dust spots, power lines and other unwanted objects from your image. With a new filter, you can also quickly change a specific color in your image. ON1 says you can use the new filter to change the color of objects such as eyes, flowers, buildings, clothes and more. A similar framework has been added to Photo RAW 2021 allowing you to quickly select a specific color to create a mask, allowing for very specific, localized edits to different parts of your image.

If you’d like to liven up your landscape images, AI Auto and new brush shapes allow the user to easily add clouds to a dull sky. Further, with the color selection technology in ON1 Photo RAW 2021, you can easily make selective edits to your sunrise and sunset images to bring out or add new colors to a scene.

The new version of the software includes workflow and usability improvements as well. With a new Full Screen Preview mode, you can view your image without any distracting user interface elements. You can also present selected images in a full-screen slideshow with user-adjustable settings. For users with large photo libraries, it is all too easy to accidentally import duplicate files or have a cluttered archive. With ON1 Photo RAW 2021’s new Smart Organize mode, the software can automatically locate duplicate images and clean up your files. You can also use this mode to track down all photos captured at a specific location. ON1 Photo RAW 2021 also includes the ability to batch process HDR and panoramic images provided the source image files are organized within subfolders.

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 can be used as a plugin across a wide range of supported software, including Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom, Affinity Photo, Capture One (coming soon), Apple Photos and Corel Paintshop Pro. Click to enlarge.

If Photoshop is an integral part of your editing workflow, you can also take advantage of ON1 Photo RAW 2021’s powerful portrait editing features inside of Photoshop by using ON1 Portrait AI as a plugin. ON1 Photo RAW 2021 can also be used as a plugin inside Lightroom, Affinity Photo, Corel Paint Shop Pro and Capture One (although this support is coming later).

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 includes support for new cameras and lenses as well. New camera support includes: Canon EOS Rebel T8i (850D), Canon EOS R5 (uncompressed image files only), Canon EOS R6 (uncompressed files only), Fujifilm X-S10, Leica M10-R, Nikon Z5, Olympus E-M10 Mark IV, Olympus E-30, Panasonic DC-S5, Panasonic Lumix DC-G100, Sony A7S III and the Sony A7C. New lens profiles include: Canon EF 85mm F1.4L IS USM, Canon G5 X Mark II, Canon RF 24-105mm F4 L IS USM, Nikon Coolpix P1000, Nikon Nikkor Z 50mm F1.8S, Nikon Nikkor Z 85mm F1.8S, Sigma 14-24mm F2.8 DG DN Art, Sony FE 35mm F1.8, Tamron 17-35mm F2.8-4 Di OSD, Tamron 18-400mm F3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD and Zeiss Touit 2.8/50M.

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 is available now. If you are an owner of a previous version of ON1 software, you can upgrade to ON1 Photo RAW 2021 for $ 79.99. New customers can purchase a perpetual license to ON1 Photo RAW 2021 for $ 99.99. There is also a bundle that includes an annual membership to ON1 Plus for $ 129.99.

If you subscribe to ON1 Photo RAW 360, which has plans starting at $ 7.99 per month, you will receive ON1 Photo RAW 2021 automatically. This also includes ON1 Photo RAW for Mobile. ON1 Photo RAW 2021 is compatible for Windows and macOS. You can learn more about ON1 Photo RAW 2021 and check out purchasing options by visiting ON1.

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Video: Meet Calypso, the predecessor to Nikon’s iconic underwater Nikonos cameras

03 Nov

A customer at Camera West in California recently traded in an interesting piece of photographic history, the Calypso underwater camera. The 35mm film camera was the first of its kind that didn’t need housing to be used underwater.

The Calypso was the brainchild of legendary explorer Jacques Cousteau and Belgian engineer Jean de Wouters. The Calypso was released in 1961 as the first 35mm underwater camera which could be used without housing. Cousteau wanted a small, simple camera you could use on land and underwater without any fuss.

When the Calypso launched, there were a trio of available lenses. Two of the lenses were manufactured by SOM Berthiot, 28mm and 35mm prime lenses. A third lens, a 45mm prime, was manufactured by Angenieux. In the video below, the Calypso is shown with the SOM Berthiot 35mm F3.5 lens. The knob on the left side of the lens barrel is used for focusing and the knob on the right controls the aperture.

The camera includes a distinct shutter design. When firing the shutter, the camera simultaneously winds the film. Since the camera is always ready to fire, there’s a shutter release lock on the top of the camera. The original camera strap is included and as you can see above, there is a built-in mechanism in the links to open the camera for loading film.

The camera’s construction is quite simple. Camera components are in the top portion of the body and the lower area is primarily a shell. The camera is constructed from an alloy and is coated in black enamel. Each component includes water sealing and the grip is faux sealskin. The camera’s top shutter speed is 1/1000s and it does include a port for using a flash.

To construct the camera, you put the two camera body components together and then mount the lens. Each lens includes a notch, allowing you to tell when the lens is fully mounted and sealed against water. At the time of its launch, the Calypso was rated to for use up to 200′ (60m) underwater.

The Calypso camera, as seen in Camera West’s video above. Click to enlarge.

In 1962, Nikon took over the production of the Calypso camera, rebranding it as the iconic Nikonos underwater 35mm camera. This was not Nikon’s first foray with underwater photography, as the Japanese company had already developed an underwater housing for the Nikon S2 camera in 1956. After teaming up with the Calypso’s original manufacturer, La Spirotechnique, the redeveloped Nikonos was released. Interestingly, in Nikon’s history of the Nikonos, Nikon says the camera was water pressure-resistant down to 50m rather than 60m, and the shutter speed topped out at 1/500s.

Ultimately, Nikon released three Nikonos cameras built upon the legacy of the Calypso, with the Nikonos III releasing in 1975. Nikon then went back to the drawing board and designed a full original Nikonos IV-A. This camera was released in 1980 and included new features such as a TTL exposure meter, aperture-priority AE control, an electronically controlled shutter, hinged open-and-close camera back and improved usability. The Nikonos V came next and was sold for 17 years before its discontinuation in October 2001. Nikon also released an autofocus underwater camera, the Nikonos RS AF, which could be used at depths of up to 100m. You can learn more about all the Nikonos cameras by clicking here.

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Moment launches series of MagSafe mounting accessories for iPhone 12

03 Nov

iPhone lens and accessory manufacturer Moment has launched a new collection of mounts that make use of the magnet embedded in the Apple iPhone 12 to attach to the phone. The mount include their own magnets to connect with those in the phone’s body, and different fixtures on the other side that allow users to mount to phone on a support or to mount accessories on the phone.

The accessories line up includes a mount for the air vent of a car, a tripod adapter, a cold shoe to fit accessories to the phone as well as a mount that allows you to attach your iPhone to the wall. Moment says it uses a ‘propreitary (M)Force magnet array’ that offers an extra powerful magnetic field to ensure accessories don’t fall off the phone and the phone doesn’t fall off your tripod.

The mounts can be used with or without an iPhone case, and feature a padded connection surface to avoid damage to the phone’s finish.
Prices for the series start at $ 19.99 for the wall mount, and go up to $ 49.99 for the Pro Tripod Mount that also includes a cold shoe for microphones or video lights. These mounts are due to ship in March 2021.

The company also has a new series of cases that include MagSafe. These cost $ 49.99 each. For more information see the Moment website.

Press release:

Reintroducing Moment for iPhone 12.

Apple introduced MagSafe. We’re introducing everything else. New Cases. Tripod Mounts. Cold Shoe Mounts. Stick To Anything Mounts. All compatible with MagSafe.

Starting at $ 19.99. Only at Moment.

Why MagSafe?

We believe it’s the future for how you quickly attach your favorite gear to your phone, and your phone to your favorite gear. Whether you are new to mobile photography or a pro filmmaker, we believe MagSafe will be more accessible than any of the current phone clamp solutions.

Why Moment for MagSafe?

We have engineered a unique magnet array that gives our accessories that extra connective strength. We are calling it (M)Force and it’s in all of our accessory mounts. Patent Pending, each of our mount has a unique use of magnets and mechanical features that make them easier (and stronger) to use. Usable with or without a case, today is just the beginning for what we plan to release.

We are excited for the future of mobile photography and filmmaking with MagSafe. We hope you join us!

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What might the Z6 II and Z7 II tell us about future pro Nikon mirrorless models?

02 Nov
The Nikon Z6 II and Z7 II are solid updates to the original Z6 and Z7 but neither represents a ‘new’ concept in the Z-series lineup.

With the Z6 II and Z7 II, Nikon has modernized its high-end Z-series full-frame lineup, and made its offerings more competitive against midrange and high-end ILCs from Canon, Panasonic and Sony. But while the Z7 II is the nominal flagship, it’s clearly not a ‘professional’ model in the same sense as the D6 and (arguably) the D850. While new to the market, neither Mark II model represents a new concept. This means that the gap which has existed at the top of the Z-series lineup since 2018 is still there.

So how might Nikon fill it? What can the Z6 II and Z7 II tell us about a future Nikon pro model?

I’m going to go out on a limb and say that instead of a single semi-pro or professional ‘Z8’ we’ll actually see two high-end models from Nikon, probably announced sometime next year, to be available in summer 2021. They will offer extremely similar controls and UI, but will be based around different sensors and intended for different purposes: one for speed and versatility, and one for resolution and maximum image quality.

For the sake of simplicity as you navigate this article, I’ll call them the Z8 and the Z8 S – with the ‘S’ here being my shorthand for ‘speed and sensitivity’.

Nikon Z8 key specifications (hypothetical)

  • 60MP sensor
  • 10 fps continuous shooting
  • Full-sensor PDAF down to -4EV
  • Comparable autofocus performance to D850
  • Expeed 7 processor
  • D800-level weather sealing
  • Dual card slots (2X CFe or CFe + SD)
  • High-res sensor-shift mode/s

Nikon Z8S key specifications (hypothetical)

  • 20-24MP sensor (possibly Sony 24MP stacked-CMOS from a9/II)
  • Super-high maximum ISO
  • 20 fps+ maximum continuous shooting (unlimited buffer)
  • High-quality electronic ‘silent’ shooting
  • Full-sensor PDAF, sensitive down to at least -5EV
  • Comparable autofocus performance to D5/6
  • Expeed 7 processor
  • D800-level weather sealing
  • Dual card slots (2X CFe)
  • High-quality 4K video

Both models will feature D850-level build quality and will offer a similar UI, with a button-and-dial logic for switching exposure modes (rather than the Z6/7’s exposure mode dial). They’ll use the same battery pattern as the existing Z6/7-series, keeping the standard bodies relatively small, but both will be compatible with a twin-battery vertical grip, which will add at least one uniquely ‘pro’ expansion feature (a LAN port, maybe? Or a rear OLED sub-display?). Nikon isn’t going to make the ‘only one card slot’ mistake again so expect twin slots, either both CFexpress Type B, or maybe CFe + SD in the case of the resolution-focused Z8.

Expect the Z8 to feature a relatively low-resolution sensor in the 20-24MP range, paired with a new faster processor

The hardest thing to predict is which sensors Nikon will use in its next-generation of high-end full-frame ILCs. Let’s take the hypothetical Z8S first – the high-speed action-focused model. The 24MP sensor used in the current Z6 and Z6 II is excellent, but dated. It’s fast enough for most photography, but likely not fast enough to support super high frame rate shooting, really cutting-edge autofocus, or next-level 4K video.

It’s possible that Nikon might reuse the Toshiba/Sony sensor developed for the D6, or maybe a version of the 24MP stacked-CMOS chip introduced in the Sony a9 (assuming that Sony Semiconductor is willing and able to supply it). Either way, expect the Z8S to feature a relatively low-resolution sensor in the 20-24MP range, paired with a new faster processor called – and I’m going to go out on a limb again – Expeed 7.

The Sony a9 and more recent a9 II have defined what a ‘professional’ sports and action-focused mirrorless camera should be. I expect Nikon will want to put a Z-mount product into this category as soon as possible.

Low-ish resolution will be the tradeoff for what I’d expect to be a very high frame rate and near-unlimited buffer. The 2020 Olympics never ended up happening but assuming the world of sports and events gets back on track in 2021, you can bet that Nikon will want its mirrorless cameras to be visible on the sidelines alongside high-speed pro models from Canon and Sony.

While it’s possible that the Z6 II will remain Nikon’s flagship video/stills hybrid camera for a while longer, I think it’s more likely that a hypothetical Z8S will represent a step up, offering meaningfully different (better) 4K, aimed at satisfying the needs of semi-pro and professional multimedia shooters. If the sensor does end up being in the 20-24MP range, It won’t be able to shoot 8K but maybe that’s not a bad thing…

A continuous shooting rate of 10-12 fps seems reasonable, but the Z8 doesn’t need to be any faster than that

It’s easier to predict the chip which might go into a hypothetical resolution and IQ-focused Z8. While not currently listed as available to third parties, the Sony Semiconductor 3.76µm 61MP sensor currently found in the a7 IV may become an option for Nikon in the coming months. While not a massive step up in terms of effective resolution over the 46MP sensor in the Z7 II, this high-speed BSI-CMOS chip is a solid technological leap forward.

If a version does make its way into one of Nikon’s future high-end ILCs, I’d expect to see it paired with beefed-up IBIS and a sensor-shift high-resolution mode. A continuous shooting rate of 10-12 fps seems reasonable, but a 60MP camera doesn’t need to be any faster than that.

The Nikon D6 and D850 feature backlit controls for comfort during low/no-light shooting. I’d expect that future professional Z-series cameras will do the same. This shot shows a D5, with its top and rear LCD status panels also illuminated (in pale blue). Maybe a future ‘Z8’ could have an optional vertical control grip with a secondary rear status LCD?

As for autofocus, I’d expect the Z8 and Z8S to offer extremely similar systems (at least in terms of how they operate) which get much closer to the experience of the D850 and D6, including a true analog for 3D AF tracking. The Z6 II and Z7 II seem somewhat improved over the original-generation, but Nikon knows it needs to close the pro performance gap with Canon and Sony, and I expect that this will be a major priority (and a major marketing-point) in future high-end Z-series model.

Much of what I wrote above is wishful thinking, but while this is guesswork, it is somewhat informed

As for cosmetics, I wouldn’t be surprised if Nikon takes the opportunity to break from the slightly angular, skinny-feeling Z6/7-series and create somewhat larger, curvier bodies, somewhere between the D780 and D850. Expect a 10-pin remote release socket and flash sync on the front of the body (like the D850 and D6) and a return to DSLR-style rubberized, recessed control dials.

So that’s my article. And I won’t lie, much of what I wrote above is wishful thinking (I guess I just really want a Z8…). Despite the oft-expressed conviction among commenters that DPReview sees product roadmaps years ahead of time, I know no more about what Nikon is planning in 2021 and beyond than you do. But while this is guesswork, it is somewhat informed, both by Nikon’s approach to building out its DSLR lineup, and by the gaps and omissions in the current Z-series lineup compared to its competitors.

What do you think? Feel free to make your predictions in the comments.

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Tamron 28-200mm Wins Grand Gold Prize at Digital Camera Grand-Prix 2021

02 Nov

The post Tamron 28-200mm Wins Grand Gold Prize at Digital Camera Grand-Prix 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Tamron 28-200mm Grand Prix prize

Tamron’s 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD superzoom has been awarded the Grand Gold Prize in the Interchangeable Lens/Mirrorless category at the Digital Camera Grand-Prix 2021. Tamron has also taken a Gold Prize for its 70-180mm f/2.8 Di III VXD telephoto zoom in the Third Party/Mirrorless category.

Grand Prix prize 70-180mm lens

The Digital Camera Grand-Prix honors the best cameras and lenses of the year; all gear debuted during the 2020 fiscal period is eligible, and winners are selected by photographic authorities.

In past years, awardees have included the Sony a7R IV (for Camera of the Year, 2020), the Nikkor Z 58mm f/0.95 S Noct (given Editors Award, 2020), and the Sony FE 24mm f/1.4 GM (for Lens of the Year, 2019).

But while Tamron has frequently received prestigious Digital Camera Grand-Prix prizes – in fact, the company has been awarded in each of the last six years – the new 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 perhaps stands alone, thanks to its breathtaking combination of focal length range, compactness, and image quality.

In fact, the Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 is the ultimate superzoom. It’s built for Sony full-frame cameras, and Tamron has ensured that it can stand up to the rigors of Sony’s mirrorless lineup; the 28-200mm is effortlessly sharp on high-resolution bodies such as the a7R IV, from 28mm to 200mm, at all apertures.

In other words:

You can capture stunningly sharp landscapes at 28mm, before zooming in for some nice sharp portraits in the 50mm to 150mm range, before capturing a sharp telephoto street shot or two at 200mm.

This is unprecedented for superzooms, which are equally well-known for their overall usefulness and frequent image quality issues. You can either have flexibility or sharpness, but not both, or so lens manufacturers seem to think – yet Tamron has proved that it’s possible to keep it all: sharpness, focal length flexibility, plus solid build quality, autofocus speed, and more.

I haven’t even mentioned the 28-200mm’s maximum aperture, which varies from f/2.8 to f/5.6 across the focal length range. The f/2.8 maximum aperture at the wide end of the range further increases the lens’s versatility. For night shooters – especially astrophotographers, who require clean images at relatively fast shutter speeds – an f/2.8 aperture is a must, and the 28-200mm can provide it.

The 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 is offered for a very reasonable price:

$ 729 USD, which is cheaper than many native Sony lenses, and brings an incredible bang for your buck when you consider what you’re getting.

So if you’re interested in a lens that can do pretty much anything, from landscapes to street photography to portrait photography and more, check out the Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD.

(Also, take a look at our review of the incredible Tamron 70-180mm f/2.8 lens for Sony.)

Now over to you:

What do you think about the 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6? Are you impressed by Tamron’s innovation? Are there any competitors that you like better? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Tamron 28-200mm Wins Grand Gold Prize at Digital Camera Grand-Prix 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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DPReview TV: The episode in which we encourage you to play with fire

02 Nov

We realize it’s not the conventional wisdom, but you should probably go play with fire. Why? Because, from fire comes art. Tell your mom we said it’s OK.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

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