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A Guide to Repairing Camera Lens Scratches

25 Nov

That feeling when you take the lens cap off to reveal a scratch. How did that get there? When did that happen? Is it going to affect my photos? These are just some of the questions that will no doubt run through your head should you find yourself in this situation. Cameras and their lenses are expensive pieces of equipment Continue Reading

The post A Guide to Repairing Camera Lens Scratches appeared first on Photodoto.


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Video: ‘One Shot’ shows what it takes to capture an iconic image at the Olympic games

25 Nov

A thread on Reddit has brought a neat photography documentary from 2017 to our attention. ‘One Shot: Photographing the Olympic Games’ is a behind the scenes look at how photographers capture the iconic images of the Olympics, including a special focus on photographers setting up to capture the 100m men’s final in Rio de Janeiro during the 2016 summer games.

Featured photographers include multi-awarded photographers such as Lucy Nicholson, Dave Burnett, Bob Martin, Tim de Waele, and Tsuyoshi Matsumoto. Nicholson had a very specific image in mind for the 100m men’s final in Rio. As she sets up her gear, nine hours ahead of the starting gun kicking off what is one of the most exciting 10 seconds in sports, Nicholson talks about how she wants a tight shot of the winner with other sprinters on either side of the winner. ‘You only get one chance to take the key shot,’ Nicholson says.

A chart showing Sports Illustrated’s plans for photographing the 100m men’s final in Rio. Click to enlarge.

The documentary, seen below, was awarded the Candido Cannavo Award at the World Final of the Milan Sport Film Festival in 2018. About 150 iconic images from nearly 100 different photographers over the last 50 years of Olympic games are featured. An iconic image tells a story for years to come. Long after the medals have been awarded to the victors, and even long after the photographer has passed, the images and the stories they tell remain. Presenter Jonathan Edwards, Olympic gold medalist triple jumper, says it well, ‘A story that’s taken a lifetime to create, told in one shot. One freeze frame.’

Years of planning are required to create iconic images, and in under a minute, an iconic photo can be sent halfway around the globe. The technology on display in 2016 during the summer games was incredible. Reuters was able to get the first photo of Usain Bolt winning the 100m men’s final out to its customers in 58 seconds. It’s safe to assume that the technology will have advanced even further when photographers head to Tokyo in 2021. And while the equipment and tools photographers use continue to evolve, photography’s importance when telling a story remains unchanged.

‘One Shot’ was directed and written by Peter Davies and presented by Jonathan Edwards. As pointed out by PetaPixel, the documentary can also be viewed on the Olympic Channel. It’s hosted on YouTube by Anthony Edgar, the Head of Media Operations for the International Olympic Committee. Edgar also appears in the video. His channel, linked above, includes a lot of interesting Olympics-related video content.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sigma to release a new ‘DN’ lens for mirrorless camera systems via livestream on December 1

25 Nov

Sigma has announced it will be showing off a new Digital Neo (DN) lens on December 1 during its ‘Sigma Stage Online’ livestream.

No further information has been shared about what kind of lens we can expect, but with the livestream just a week out, we won’t have to wait long. The livestream will take place at 7am ET (4am PT) using the below video:

You can subscribe to Sigma’s Youtube channel to keep up to date with the latest news and click the ‘Set reminder’ button on the above video to receive a push notification before the livestream starts.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: Does the Canon Rebel T8i DSLR make sense in an increasingly mirrorless world?

25 Nov

Introduction

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The Canon EOS Rebel T8i (also known as the EOS 850D or Kiss X10i in some markets) is a 24MP DSLR camera that is compatible with the company’s EF and EF-S mount lenses. It has an optical viewfinder, but it also has a usable and responsive touchscreen interface and live view experience that’s a match for the company’s mirrorless camera options.



For much of the world, shifting consumer preferences towards mirrorless cameras have left DSLRs looking like relics of history, though Europe and the Americas remain holdouts. Last year, Europeans still bought about 1.4 DSLRs for every mirrorless camera sold, while in the Americas the ratio was even higher at 1.7:1.

So why might you consider a DSLR in our increasingly mirrorless world? Some photographers still prefer DSLRs for their crisp, lag-free through-the-lens viewfinders, and there’s a much wider array of lenses available to DSLR shooters without the need for adapters.

ISO 2500 | 1/100 sec | F5 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 44mm

Yet relatively few manufacturers are left in the consumer DSLR market. Only Canon, Nikon and Ricoh (which makes Pentax-branded DSLRs) remain, making new models few and far between. Among these, Canon’s EOS Rebel series are the biggest sellers. The Rebel T8i now sits at the top of that line, replacing 2017’s T7i.

Priced at $ 749.99 body-only or $ 900 with an EF-S 18-55mm IS STM kit lens, the Canon T8i is available immediately.

Key specifications

  • 24-megapixel APS-C image sensor
  • EF or EF-S lens compatibility
  • ISO 100 to 25,600, extends to 51,200
  • 7 fps continuous shooting, or 7.5 fps in live view
  • 45 point, all cross-type phase-detect AF
  • 0.51x pentamirror viewfinder with 95% coverage
  • 3.0″ vari-angle touch-screen LCD
  • 24p 4K video with 1.6x crop, or full-sensor 1080p60
  • 800 shot battery life, or 310 shots with live view
Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 250 | 1/100 sec | F5.6 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 55mm

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What’s new and how it compares

The AF-ON button and rear dial make the T8i a more flexible camera for users to learn and grow with than lesser Rebels.

Externally, the 24-megapixel Canon T8i looks very similar to its predecessor from most angles, although there are some control tweaks to be found on its rear panel including a new rear control dial and AF-On button. While Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity remain, NFC has been dropped as the constant Bluetooth connection speeds up the connection process the way NFC used to. Lastly, the flash must now be raised manually when needed, as it can no longer pop up by itself. As we’ll see later on, this is a good thing.

On the inside, while the sensor resolution and sensitivity range are unchanged, a faster image processor allows a modest increase in burst performance. It’s now rated at 7 frames per second through the viewfinder, or 7.5 fps in live view mode, up from 6 fps in the T7i. There’s also a somewhat finer-grained 384-zone metering sensor in place of the earlier 315-zone sensor.

The Rebel T8i uses a familiar 24MP sensor with Dual Pixel AF that offers solid noise performance and resolution.

Canon has also added support for 4K movie capture, although this comes with several limitations including a significant focal length crop, contrast-detection autofocus (rather than the more reliable Dual Pixel AF you get in lesser Full HD modes) and a fixed 24 fps frame rate. And autofocus algorithms have been refined to add eye detection in live view mode, and face detection when shooting through the viewfinder.

How it compares…

Compared with two of its mirrorless rivals, the Nikon Z50 and Sony a6100, the Canon T8i offers much better battery life, so long as you stick to its optical viewfinder. The T8i is quite a bit bulkier though, despite not offering weather-sealing.

Canon T8i Nikon Z50 Sony a6100
MSRP (body) $ 749.99 $ 859.95 $ 750
Sensor 24.1MP APS-C 20.9MP APS-C 24MP APS-C
Type DSLR Mirrorless Mirrorless
Sensitivity (native) 100-25600 100-51200 100-32000
Lens mount Canon EF / EF-S Nikon Z Sony E
Viewfinder type Optical pentamirror SLR 2.36M-dot OLED EVF 1.44M-dot EVF
Viewfinder magnif. / coverage 0.51x, 95% 0.68x, 100% 0.71x, 100%
LCD 3” fully articulating 3.2” tilting 3” tilting
Touch-screen Yes Yes Yes
Included flash Pop-up Pop-up Pop-up
Weather-sealing No Yes No
Max. burst 7.0 fps (viewfinder) / 7.5 fps (live view) 5 fps (mechanical) / 11 fps (electronic) 11 fps (mechanical)
Max. shutter 1/4000 1/4000 1/4000
Video 4K/24p, 1080/24-60p 4K/24-30p, 1080/ 24-120p 4K/24-30p, 1080/ 24-120p
4K crop 1.6x None 1.2x (4K/30p)
Battery life (CIPA) 800 shots (OVF); 310 shots (Live View) 320 shots 420 shots
Dimensions 131 x 103 x 76mm 127 x 94 x 60mm 120 x 67 x 59mm
Weight 515 g 450 g 396 g

One thing that’s hard to capture in a table are the differences between the camera’s AF systems. In its optical viewfinder, the T8i’s 45 autofocus points are centrally clustered, which can get in the way of creative compositions. Switch into live view and you have autofocus points spread across the frame, the same as the other options give you on their rear screens and their electronic viewfinders.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 500 | 1/60 sec | F4 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 18mm

Compared to the smaller and more affordable Canon Rebel SL3, the T8i offers more sophisticated autofocus through its slightly smaller finder, though the SL3 offers you a third more shots per charge. On the mirrorless side of the equation, the T8i bests the Canon EOS M50 Mark II’s 235-shot battery life whether you’re using the optical viewfinder or live view, but the mirrorless model is lower-priced, significantly more compact / lightweight and offers faster 10 fps burst capture.

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Body, handling and controls

Although its body is plastic, the Canon T8i is very solid in-hand, with no creaks or flexing. It’s also pretty light and compact for a DSLR. The main controls are well-placed and easy to locate by touch.

The new AF-On button is ideally situated for quick autofocus adjustments with a slight thumb motion. (And via a custom setting, can be set to AF-Off instead.) The Wi-Fi button and indicator lamp are gone but won’t be missed, as you won’t need them often. We recommend connecting via Bluetooth, which maintains a constant connection that draws little power, and also makes connecting via Wi-Fi to send images a snap.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 100 | 1/125 sec | F5.6 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 55mm

The new rear control dial is also a nice addition, though since it’s integrated with the four-way controller, it can’t be reached without adjusting your grip. On the plus side, it’s only active when the exposure metering system is brought to life by a half-press of the shutter button or you’re in a menu, preventing accidental settings changes.

There will always be some photographers that prefer an optical viewfinder; the T8i’s is serviceable, but it’s on the small and dim end of the spectrum.

Sadly, the pentamirror viewfinder is dim and tunnel-like compared with the electronic finders of mirrorless rivals and even some rival SLRs, such as the less-expensive Pentax K-70 (which has a larger pentaprism design which is brighter than pentamirror designs).

The rear LCD is crisp and easy to see even under sunlight if you turn up the brightness. Its fully-articulated mechanism allows framing from most angles, even for selfies.

The vari-angle LCD allows selfie-shooting too, but the ergonomics aren’t ideal when holding the camera backwards. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 2000 | 1/60 sec | F4 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 18mm

The on-screen UI is standard Canon. It’s fairly clear and logically laid-out, and can be navigated with buttons, dials or the very precise touchscreen. Your most-used options can be saved in the My Menu section for quick recall.

Battery life is excellent when shooting stills through the viewfinder, and I never needed a second battery even during lengthy day trips. (I passed 500 frames captured without the charge level indicator dropping even a single bar, which impressed me.) If you shoot a lot of video or use live view frequently, the LCD can burn through power fairly quickly, though. For that reason, the T8i goes to sleep by default after ten seconds unless in menus or live view / playback modes.

Top plate controls are fairly typical Canon, and the quick switch over to video mode is a nice touch.

A standalone charger is included in the bundle, so you can leave a second battery charging while using the camera. Unfortunately in-camera charging via USB isn’t supported, so you can’t share a charger and cable with another device when you want to pack light. As well as USB, there are HDMI, microphone and remote control ports.

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Image quality

With the same sensor resolution and sensitivity range as its predecessor, you might expect similar image quality from the Canon T8i: and you’d be right. As an affordable camera aimed at entry-level photographers, it’s good enough but won’t win any awards. That’s not to say there are no differences, however.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 800 | 1/80 sec | F4.5 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 24mm

Out of camera JPEGs mostly showed pleasing color both outdoors and under artificial light, although I found the latter a little more variable, with some images a tad warm and others a little on the cool side. In both the green fully-automatic mode and program autoexposure, the T8i’s metering proved pretty accurate, and at lower sensitivities there was a fair amount of fine detail as well, although I felt the default sharpening was a touch aggressive.

Comparison of ISO 100 and 25,600. See the sample gallery for a full ISO sensitivity series.

ISO sensitivity in auto mode is limited to a maximum ISO of 6400 by default, and that seems like a good cutoff point. Some noise and loss of saturation starts to become noticeable by ISO 3200, but it’s not until you reach ISO 6400 that it really begins to intrude. You’re best off avoiding ISO 12800 and above as there’s a significant loss of fine detail to noise, and colors can look decidedly washed out.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 3200 | 1/80 sec | F4.5 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 18mm

Of course, shooting in Raw format helps somewhat as you can rely on the greater processing power of your computer to help tame noise while still holding onto color and detail. And there’s a fair bit of scope to correct exposure within a couple of stops, as well. Raws can also be processed in-camera, which is a nice touch for making quick adjustments on the go.

We’re honestly pleased to find that the T8i’s flash must be manually raised; previous Canon Rebels would often raise their automatically in situations where it actually has a negative impact on your images.

One notable change is that the Rebel T8i no longer tends to overexpose nearby subjects by raising and firing the flash when it’s not really needed, since it can no longer pop up automatically. You need to pay attention to your shutter speeds, though, and either raise the ISO, or lift the flash yourself. Sadly, there’s no warning in the viewfinder when shutter speeds stray below the point where exposures can safely be shot hand-held.

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Autofocus

The Canon T8i’s autofocus system has two distinct operating modes, depending upon whether you’re using the optical viewfinder or live view modes. Both systems are capable of locking focus quickly and accurately in good light. In darker conditions, both take a bit longer to achieve a lock, but if I was capable of seeing the subject through the viewfinder, the camera could usually manage to focus on it within a couple of seconds.

A simplified look at the T8i’s optical viewfinder AF system.

When shooting through the viewfinder there are a total of 45 autofocus points, all of which are cross-type. As you can see in the above illustration, they only cover about two thirds of the frame width and a little over a third of the frame height. For live view mode, almost the entire frame is covered vertically, and significantly more of its width as well.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 500 | 1/60 sec | F4 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 18mm

Live view also offers both face and eye detection and lets you select which face or eye to focus on using the four-way controller or touch-screen. Viewfinder shooting only has face detection, and you can’t directly control which face to focus on, although if you aim directly at a particular face before half-pressing the shutter button, the camera will then try to follow that face.

Both systems detect faces pretty well, and the tracking implementation is fairly robust. In testing with my son running and riding a bike directly towards me, the T8i was able to accurately track his location and keep the focus locked on his face most of the time until he was very close to the camera. This isn’t by any means a sports shooter, but I think it’s more than capable of keeping up with amateur photographers’ needs in this respect.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 100 | 1/60 sec | F7.1 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 27mm

Really, my only complaint with autofocus is that it can be confusing if you’re frequently switching between live view and viewfinder shooting. Each mode is configured separately, so for example switching one mode to continuous servo AF won’t affect the other mode’s setup. On the other hand, this separation of settings could be useful if you’re switching from shooting stills in the viewfinder and video in live view. Which brings us to…

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Video

The addition of 4K video is one of the bigger changes in the Canon T8i, but it’s really rather a shame that it comes hobbled by several significant limitations.

First and most importantly, there’s that significant 1.6x focal length crop on top of the crop imposed by its APS-C sensor size. In other words, a 2.6x effective crop even before you enable digital IS, which crops in still further. In 4K mode without digital IS, the optional 18-55mm kit lens yields an effective 47-143mm range, so your wide-angle options are seriously limited.



4K video has a significant focal length crop. Both videos above were shot at the same location and focal length. Note also the false-color artifacts in the water ripples in the Full HD clip.

The longer effective focal length also means that even with both optical and digital IS active, the stabilization system can struggle to smooth camera shake in 4K, especially if you’re walking.

4K mode comes with a fixed 24 frames per second capture rate, too, and uses contrast-detection autofocus which, compared to phase detection, is slower and has slight but noticeable hunting.

Dual Pixel AF, seen in this demo, is only available in Full HD. In 4K, you can expect more distracting hunting before the Rebel locks on to its targets.

The good news is that if you can put up with those limitations, 4K image quality is fairly good, with lots of crisp detail and pleasing color. And while there’s definitely some rolling shutter effect present, causing verticals to lean during subject motion or quick pans, it’s far from the worst I’ve seen.

Enabling Movie Digital IS causes a significant focal length crop, too. Both of these Full HD clips have optical stabilization active, but the second clip with Enhanced IS still can’t entirely steady the motion of walking, even at a wide 18mm (29mm equiv.) focal length.

But I think it’s better to look at this as a Full HD camera which can also shoot 4K with more distant subjects and relatively sedate motion in a pinch. In Full HD, where you get phase detection AF and access to frame rates as high as 60 fps, there’s less fine detail but focusing is quicker and more confident, and motion is rendered more smoothly. The biggest downside is that Full HD seems more prone to moiré and false color artifacts.

The T8i lacks significant scope for slow-motion video, but does offer a time-lapse movie mode, as well as supporting manual exposure, focus peaking and external audio recording.

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Conclusion

At the end of the day, the Canon Rebel T8i leaves me with rather mixed emotions. On the one hand, for fans of DSLRs like myself, there are fewer and fewer choices on offer, and it does pack quite a lot into a fairly compact, lightweight package by DSLR standards.

But on the other hand, it trails its mirrorless camera rivals in terms of both autofocus and burst capture performance. And the feature which differentiates it most clearly from those rivals – that mirror-based optical viewfinder – gives a disappointingly small and dim view of your subject.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 12800 | 1/60 sec | F4 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 18mm

While 4K video capture is finally available in the Rebel T8i, it also comes with some major limitations that make it feel more as if it was added to fill out the spec sheet than for real-world use.

But with all of that said, the T8i does give you pretty good still image quality and usable high-definition video capture. And it does so at a pretty affordable pricetag, as well, and with battery life that’s in a totally different ballpark to mirrorless rivals if you tend to rely on the viewfinder.

The Rebel T8i isn’t the future for Canon, but it offers plenty of features and good ergonomics at an affordable pricetag.

There’s definitely something to be said for the vast range of Canon EF and EF-S mount lenses on offer, too; though keep in mind there isn’t a ton of variety in the more affordable EF-S range, and the EF lenses, designed for larger full-frame sensors, are bigger and pricier. And with Canon focusing on its new RF mount, we wouldn’t expect a glut of new EF and EF-S lenses to suddenly appear down the line.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 25600 | 1/25 sec | F5.6 | Canon EF-S 18-55mm @ 55mm

So, does the Canon T8i represent the future for Canon? Probably not. But does it offer plenty of camera for the money, particularly for the less experienced photographers at which it’s aimed? I’d say so, despite my reservations about its viewfinder and 4K video capabilities.

And I think that makes it a worthwhile buy, especially if you happen to spot it for sale below its list price.

What we like What we don’t
  • Through-the-lens optical viewfinder is crisp and lag-free
  • Good ergonomics and solid build
  • Compatible with a vast range of Canon EF and EF-S lenses and accessories
  • Excellent battery life (if you stick to the optical viewfinder)
  • Good still image quality, albeit not as good as some newer models
  • Fully articulating touchscreen display is very versatile
  • Relatively small, dim viewfinder, even by APS-C DSLR standards
  • Wide-angle possibilities are very limited for 4K capture
  • No PDAF and only 24fps for 4K, too
  • Full HD video is prone to moiré and false color
  • Less point-dense AF than mirrorless rivals
  • No in-body stabilizer
  • AF points for viewfinder shooting clustered near the center of the frame
  • No ability to charge battery over USB

Sample gallery

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Scoring

Canon EOS Rebel T8i (EOS 850D / EOS Kiss X10i)
Category: Entry Level Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR
Build quality
Ergonomics & handling
Features
Metering & focus accuracy
Image quality (raw)
Image quality (jpeg)
Low light / high ISO performance
Viewfinder / screen rating
Performance
Movie / video mode
Connectivity
Value
PoorExcellent
Conclusion
The Canon EOS Rebel T8i is well-built with comfortable ergonomics and provides solid image quality for users that prefer an optical viewfinder. Unfortunately, its video capabilities aren't that impressive, and the viewfinder autofocus system is a little basic compared to what you get on mirrorless cameras through their electronic finders. Still, if you're in the market for a reasonably affordable DSLR, the EOS Rebel T8i is worth a look.

Good for
Amateur photographers looking for a solid camera to learn and grow with, users looking for a fairly compact camera with an optical viewfinder.

Not so good for
Photographers that want the best autofocus and exposure performance through the viewfinder, users that are looking for good 4K video and those looking for even more compact options.
80%
Overall score

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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MonsterAdapter’s new LA-KE1 adapter brings autofocus, aperture control to Pentax K-mount lenses on Sony E-mount cameras

25 Nov

MonsterAdapter, a relatively new player in the lens adapter game, has revealed the details of the LA-KE1, a new adapter that will make it possible to mount Pentax K-mount glass to Sony E-mount mirrorless camera systems.

There isn’t much information available about MonsterAdapter. The company’s Facebook page, which appears to be its only online presence, was created on May 20, 2020, when the company announced the development of the LA-EA4r, a modified version of Sony’s LA-EA4 adapter that expanded functionality and support. MonsterAdapters has since released another adapter, the LA-VE1, which makes it possible to adapt Minolta Vectis V-mount lenses to Sony E-mount mirrorless cameras.

Now, the company is promoting its forthcoming LA-KE1, which it claims is the ‘first of its kind in the world.’ The adapter offers full autofocus, aperture control and EXIF data transfer for Pentax K-mount lenses (KAF, KAF2, KAF3 and KAF4) to Sony E-mount cameras. The adapter uses a pair of motors for turning the screw-drive autofocus in older K-mount lenses.

This not only brings the ability to shoot with Pentax lenses to Sony E-mount cameras, but also enables many of Sony’s AI-assisted focusing modes to be used with the Pentax lenses, new and old. MonsterAdapter says the exact functionality will vary depending on what camera you’re using — noting a more powerful camera likely means more features — but both Human and Animal Eye-AF focus modes should be able to work on adapted glass.

MonsterAdapter also notes that due to the limits of screw-drive lenses, this adapter is best suited for still photographs—not video. In addition to the images of the prototype adapter in this article, SonyAlphaRumors has also shared a hands-on video demonstration of it in action:

No price is given for the LA-KE1 adapter, but it is set to ‘hit the market within this year,’ according to the company’s announcement post. You can keep up with the latest news on MonsterAdapter’s Facebook page.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Gear of the Year: Barney’s choice (part 1) – Fujifilm X100V

24 Nov

Please note: the images in this article are downsized from the original files. A link is provided below to our full samples gallery.

What a year. I thought 2016 was bad, but then 2020 barged in, ripped a room-clearing fart, handed 2016 its beer and went bananas. Hopefully you don’t need me to list the many horrors of the last 11 months, because I would prefer not to.

It’s surreal looking back now, but in the first six weeks of 2020 I flew roughly 15,000 miles, all of which was for work. The year began with the CES show in Las Vegas, then on to a video shoot in Texas, and another in California, followed by the launch of the Fujifilm X100V, in London. And that’s where this story begins…

…I don’t know why I did the dot-dot-dot thing there, this article is only one page long.

By early February, the novel coronavirus had been a blip on the outer edge of my mental radar screen for a while. In late January our video crew and I had shared some wry jokes about ‘flying now while we still can, ha ha…’, but it was the following month, at the launch of the Fujifilm X100V in London, that I started to sense a more general concern. Speaking to Fujifilm executives at the event (and, significantly in retrospect, those unexpectedly not at the event) it was clear that the situation in China (where Fujifilm has some manufacturing) had become grave, and in addition to the tragic human cost in Asia, COVID-19 was having a profound effect on production and supply chain logistics around the world.

The Fujifilm X100V was launched in February at an event in London. I added a few days to that trip to see family – my last opportunity to do so, as it turned out, for what may still be a long time.

1/60sec|F3.2|ISO 800

I was in the UK for a week, which included a few days spent with my family in London and the north of England. On the darkened plane back to Seattle, I remember wondering when I would see the old country again. Coincidentally, that was also the last outing for my much-traveled and now-expired European Union GB passport.

By early March things were getting serious all over the world (with DPReview’s adopted home state of Washington an early hotspot). Partly to scratch the itch of my own growing panic, I spent a few days researching the impact of COVID-19 on the photo industry. Alongside many reasonable, thoughtful comments on the resulting article are several that have since aged like fine milk.

Oddfellows Cafe in Capitol Hill, Seattle, boarding up after the WA lockdown was announced in mid March. Cafes, restaurants and many other businesses that were forced to close put boards up over their windows and encouraged local artists to decorate the storefronts.

1/420sec|F5.6|ISO 160

We all know what happened next. After March 16th 2020, I didn’t so much as hug another human being for more than 70 days. Things got weird.

Where does the Fujifilm X100V tie into all of this? Beyond the fateful coincidence of the timing of its launch in early 2020, it’s the camera that’s been in my hands almost every day for the past ten months.

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It was a preproduction X100V that I took on my trip back home to the UK in February, and which I used to take the last (for who knows how long) photographs of my sister, my nephew and my parents. I subsequently bought one, and my personal X100V was with me all through quarantine. I carried it with me on my daily permitted walks and bike rides through Seattle’s deserted streets, in that strangest, sunniest of springs, where normally busy neighborhoods looked like Edward Hopper paintings and everyone remarked on the sound of birdsong.

I also took a lot of mirror selfies, although in my defense it was a difficult time.

When I finally ventured out into crowds in late May and early June following protests after the killing of George Floyd, it was with X100V. When Seattle briefly became the focus of global attention following the establishment of the short-lived CHAZ/CHOP zone (a much smaller area than you might have been lead to believe, which began a mere block away from my apartment), I visited several times with the X100V, making sure that I had a personal record of what was going on. Even when the circumference of my world had shrunk to the handful of blocks around my front door, photography helped me feel somewhat connected.

Protesters gather near Cal Anderson Park in Seattle in early June – one of many protests that followed the death of George Floyd at the hands of police in Minneapolis.

1/60sec|F8|ISO 320

Sheer anarchy! Members of the local community paint a mural on the road (now preserved) near the SPD East Precinct, later in June.

1/60sec|F5.6|ISO 800

The X100V is a near-perfect everyday camera because it’s small enough to tuck under a light jacket when I’m out walking or cycling, fast, very simple to use and delivers great pictures. The new lens in the ‘V’ with its two aspherical elements, is far superior for close work to the original version on the X100/S/T/F and it performs much better with the 28mm wide converter attached. The X100V is one of those rare cameras that does exactly what I need it to, without a lot of fuss. It’s as simple at that, really; a reliable companion in a most unsettling season.

A slightly misfocused grab-shot at a spontaneous celebration following the announcement that Donald Trump had lost Pennsylvania (and the 2020 presidential election) earlier this month. In the background to the left is Oddfellows Cafe. This may have been a technically better photo had I taken it with an ILC, but the X100V is the camera I had with me – which is the whole point.

1/60sec|F8|ISO 640

For all the documentation that I’ve done this year with the X100V, I do not describe myself as a documentary photographer. I know several photojournalists personally, and I could never do what they do, especially in the current political climate here in the US, where personal safety is of increasing concern for members of the media. The pictures I take are primarily for me, for the purposes of creative practice, memory and reflection. And while there was much that happened in 2020 that I wish I could forget (and it’s not over yet), there was certainly a lot to reflect on…

…I’m doing that dot-dot-dot thing again, which means I should probably stop before this all gets hopelessly introspective. I think we’ve all had quite enough of that this year.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Shoot in Low Light – 9 Commonly Asked Questions

24 Nov

The post How to Shoot in Low Light – 9 Commonly Asked Questions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.

low light photography moon rise
This image of a moonrise over Marietta, Ohio was taken 20 minutes after sunset during the blue hour; the sun had set and the sky was a dark blue. The city lights create a great warm glow over the city.

According to British photojournalist Donald McCullin, “There is no such thing as bad light, just misunderstood light.” Yet many photographers still consider low light to be bad light.

The purpose of this article is to encourage you to not consider low light as inferior or unusable, but to instead look for subjects that work well with the available low light. Shooting in low light can often be a struggle, however, which is why I’ll answer nine of the most frequently asked questions about low light photography.

Keep in mind that low light photography is not exclusively night photography. Low light photography opportunities may appear at any time of the day.

For instance, shooting waterfalls in low light allows you to use a slow shutter speed, prevents overexposure of the white water of the falls, and helps you create a beautiful silky effect (by blurring the moving water).

Using a flash will light up any subject, of course, but let’s take a look at how to improve your photography in naturally-occurring low light.

Low light photography FAQs

low light photography bridge
Low light creates very dramatic scenes. Dark storm clouds turned this potential sunrise into a great low light opportunity.

1. My low light images are blurry. Would a better lens alleviate the blur?

The short answer to this question is, “Yes.” A fast lens with a maximum f-stop of f/1.8, for instance, will give you better results than a kit lens with a maximum f-stop of f/3.5 or f/5.6. 

But even the faster, more expensive lenses will give you undesirable results if you’re using the wrong settings. You see, the wider aperture opening on fast lenses allows you to use a faster shutter speed, which helps you capture a sharper image – but unless you dial in the correct shutter speed, your shots will often turn out blurry anyway!

Lenses with larger maximum apertures are called “fast” because they allow you to shoot with faster shutter speeds, thanks to the additional light that enters your camera through the bigger aperture opening.

2. What are the best camera settings for shooting in low light?

These are the best low light camera settings:

Manual mode

Shooting in Manual mode is essential for successful low light photography, as it allows you to control every functional aspect of your camera.

Once in Manual mode, you basically have three ways to get more light onto your camera sensor:

  • Shutter speed
  • Aperture
  • ISO

These three controls are together called the exposure triangle, and each of the settings can have a positive or negative result on your image’s exposure.

Therefore, learning how to use shutter speed, aperture, and ISO for the best result is the key to low light photography.

Note that your in-camera light meter will reveal where adjustments should be made to the camera settings, and well-exposed images will be the result.

Shutter speed

If you are shooting handheld, a good rule of thumb is to set your shutter speed to match the reciprocal of your focal length.

For example, if you are shooting at 50mm, your shutter speed shouldn’t be any slower than 1/50s. Of course, if the subject of your photo is moving, then you will need to increase your shutter speed to freeze the action. Because while choosing a slower shutter speed will allow more light into your camera, you’ll also risk getting a blurry result.

low light photography great blue heron
A great blue heron in a fight was the subject of this low light image. I shot this at 1/250s, f/5.6, and ISO 1250. Using a combination of a slower shutter speed and a higher ISO, I was able to create the blurry wings while panning to match the speed of the fight.

Aperture

In most low light situations, you will probably need to shoot with your aperture wide open.

But if there is enough light to shoot with a smaller f-stop, you’ll get an increased depth of field.

So here’s what to consider:

Choosing a wider aperture will let more light into your camera, but will decrease your depth of field. And this could lead to an important part of your image being out of focus.

So what should you do?

Generally, it’s better to risk an out-of-focus shot than to guarantee a blurry one – so, if necessary, widen that aperture!

ISO

The higher the ISO, the brighter the resulting shot.

But there’s an important trade-off here:

The higher the ISO, the more digital noise you’ll be adding to your image.

So keep your ISO as low as possible, and only increase your ISO after you have decreased your shutter speed and widened your aperture.

Shoot in RAW

For the best results, shooting in RAW is recommended.

This is for one simple reason: Your camera will save more shadow detail in RAW format compared to the compressed JPEG format.

Also, it is very helpful to learn how to check your histogram; that way, you don’t have to just rely on what you see on your camera’s LCD screen. Use the histogram to check your exposure, and avoid clipping the highlights and shadows.

black and white beach house
I used the low light at Huntington Beach, California to create this black and white image with a five-second exposure.

3. How do I take low light action shots?

Shooting action in low light can be very challenging, and it is almost always going to require you to shoot with your aperture at its widest setting.

Once your aperture is set, adjust your shutter speed to match the action you are trying to freeze. Of course, depending on the situation, there may simply not be enough light. If that is the case, adjust the ISO to a higher setting until a good exposure is set. If your ISO setting is so high that you are getting an unacceptable amount of digital noise, you have two options:

Either add light with a flash or some other source, or live with the noise and try to remove some of it in post-processing.

Sometimes, with the noise issue, it comes down to getting the shot with noise versus not taking the shot at all.

4. How do I reduce the digital noise level in low light images?

The simple answer to this question is to shoot at the lowest ISO that you can. But it is also a good idea to know the ISO at which your camera produces noise that you consider unacceptable.

And always make sure your exposure is correct. Even at a low ISO, if your image is underexposed, you will have some noise in the shadow areas.

long exposure waterfall
A cloudy day at Blackwater Falls, West Virginia allowed for a long exposure without blowing out the highlights.

5. How do I focus in low light?

Another reason for blurry images in low light is the fact that some cameras just aren’t manufactured to focus properly with less light.

So what should you do?

Try shining a light on your subject to give your camera enough light to focus. You can also use your lens’s focusing ring to fine-tune your focus.

Focusing via the central AF point may also help, as it usually focuses faster and more accurately than surrounding AF points.

6. How can I take pro-like images in low light?

Here are four things that most pros do in low light:

  1. Use a tripod
  2. Shoot in RAW
  3. Shoot in Manual mode
  4. Use the histogram
low light photography silhouette
Low light makes for great silhouettes!

7. How do I choose the best white balance for low light?

Set your white balance to match your environment:

  • Tungsten for photographing indoors with light from a regular lightbulb
  • Fluorescent for light from fluorescent bulbs
  • Cloudy for low light created by an overcast day
  • Shade for shooting in a shaded or shadowy area

One thing to remember:

If you are shooting in RAW, you can adjust your white balance later in post-processing.

But if you are shooting JPEGs, it is very important to get your white balance correct in-camera. For this reason, if your camera is set to capture JPEGs, you should not use the automatic white balance function. White balance is hard, and sometimes impossible, to correct later in a JPEG.

8. Should I raise my ISO or lower my shutter speed in low light?

Assuming that you are shooting with your aperture wide open, in most situations this is an easy one to answer:

Adjust your shutter speed!

And only raise your ISO as a last resort.

Remember that raising your ISO is going to add more noise into the image.

Now, most new DSLRs do a much better job with noise levels at higher ISO settings. But as I mentioned earlier, it is a good idea to know what noise levels are unacceptable, and what ISOs these correspond to. In situations where your subject is moving, it may become necessary to boost the ISO to keep your shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action.

fall scene with fog
Fog created the low light conditions in this fall image.

9. Why aren’t my low light shots sharp even when I use a tripod?

Remember that, in most low light, you will be shooting with your aperture wide open (or nearly so).

Hence, your depth of field will be very shallow (which can lead to blurry results).

So be extra careful to lock your focus (you can even try back-button focus) on the part of your scene that needs to be in sharp focus.

Case in point:

When shooting a low light portrait, it is important to have the subject’s eyes in focus. So focus on the eyes!

Also, if your subject is moving, increase your shutter speed until the subject is frozen by your camera. And when shooting with a tripod, make sure your camera’s image stabilization is turned off, because it can actually create blur!

10. A bonus tip

In low light, the LCD screen on the back of your camera is going to look very bright – and this will give you an inaccurate sense of your photo’s exposure.

So if your camera has an adjustment for the brightness of your LCD screen, turn it down. You want to ensure your image will not seem overly bright when you view it!

low light photography

How to shoot in low light: conclusion

The trick to low light photography is to take control of your camera, and know that every action or setting will have a reaction.

Now, how is that different from photography in any other type of light?

It’s not, really. Just consider photography in low light as an opportunity to be creative.

Now over to you:

What subjects do you like to shoot in low light? And do you have any low light shooting tips? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post How to Shoot in Low Light – 9 Commonly Asked Questions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.


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2020 Black Friday and Cyber Monday camera gear deals

24 Nov

Please note that this article will be updated over the course of the holiday week. We will make every effort to keep it up to date but we cannot guarantee that all of the deals listed below will be available at the time of reading.

Here in the US, we’re looking forward to Thanksgiving. While this year’s Turkey Day will be a little unusual thanks to you-know-what, some things remain the same. Holiday season traditionally means shopping season, and the week of Black Friday, Small Business Saturday and Cyber Monday deals is here.

We’ve compiled a list of the best offers on cameras, lenses, accessories and software, and we’re going to be updating this article regularly as more deals are listed and others are taken down. If you find a nice deal you think we’ve missed, or you notice one that’s expired, please let us know in the comments below.

Do note that the ‘SAVE’ figures below represent discount from original MSRP and we make no guarantees that the discounts listed will be available across the entire holiday weekend.

We’re focusing on deals from major U.S. online retailers in this article, and if you choose to shop via the Amazon links below, you’ll be supporting DPReview in a small way.

Happy holidays!


Accessories

Loupedeck (November 27-30)

Loupedeck CT Save 10%
$ 500, normally $ 550 (Loupedeck, Amazon)

Loupedeck CT Save 10%
$ 225, normally $ 250 (Loupedeck, Amazon)

Peak Design (November 16-30)

Everyday Line (V2) Save 20%
(Adorama, B&H, Peak Design)

Travel Line Save 20%
(Adorama, B&H, Peak Design)

Straps, Clips and Accessories Save 10%
(Adorama, B&H, Peak Design)

Travel Tripod Save 10%
(Adorama, B&H, Peak Design)

SmallHD

502 Bright Full HD On-Camera Monitor Save $ 100

$ 699, usually $ 799

SmallRig

Entire Store — Save 15%


Canon

You can see a full list of Canon’s deals on its dedicated holiday deals page

Cameras

EOS RP RF24–105mm F4–7.1 IS STM Lens Kit — Save $ 400
$ 999, usually $ 1,399 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)

EOS R (body only) — Save $ 200
$ 1,599, usually $ 1,799 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Canon)

EOS M6 Mark II + EF-M 15–45mm f/3.5–6.3 IS STM + EVF Kit — Save $ 200
$ 899, usually $ 1,099 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)

EOS M6 Mark II + EF-M 18–150mm f/3.5–6.3 IS STM + EVF Kit Black — Save $ 200
$ 1,149, usually $ 1,349 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)

EOS 90D Video Creator Kit — Save $ 150
$ 1,299, usually $ 1,449 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Canon)

EOS M50 Video Creator Kit — Save $ 150
$ 599, usually $ 749 (Adorama, B&H, Canon)

Powershot G7 X Mark II — Save $ 130
$ 499, usually $ 629 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Canon)

Powershot G7 X Mark III — Save $ 100
$ 649, usually $ 749 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Canon)

Lenses

EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM — Save $ 30
$ 119, usually $ 149 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Canon)

EF-S 35mm f/2.8 Macro IS STM — Save $ 50
$ 299, usually $ 349 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Canon)

EF 40mm f/2.8 STM — Save $ 20
$ 179, usually $ 199 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Canon)

RF 50mm F1.2 L USM – Save $ 100
$ 2,199, usually $ 2,299 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)

RF 85mm F1.2 L USM – Save $ 100
$ 2,599, usually $ 2,699 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)

RF 24–70mm F2.8L IS USMSave $ 100
$ 2,199, usually $ 2,299 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)

RF 24–240mm F4–6.3 IS USM — Save $ 200
$ 699, usually $ 899 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)

RF 70–200mm F2.8 L IS USM — Save $ 100
$ 2,599, usually $ 2,699 (Amazon, B&H, Canon)


Fujifilm

Coming soon…


Nikon

You can view all of Nikon’s deals on its Black Friday camera deals page

Cameras

Z7 (body only) — Save $ 300
$ 2,499, usually $ 2,799 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z7 with 24–70mm F4 S zoom lens kit — Save $ 300
$ 3,099, usually $ 3,399 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z6 (body only) — Save $ 400
$ 1,599, usually $ 1,999 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z6 with 24–70mm F4 S zoom lens kit — Save $ 400
$ 2,199, usually $ 2,599 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z6 filmmakers kit — Save $ 400
$ 3,599, usually $ 3,999 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z5 (body only) — Save $ 200
$ 1,199, usually $ 1,399 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z5 with 24–200mm F4–6.3 VR lens kit — Save $ 200
$ 1,999, usually $ 2,199 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z5 with 24–50mm F4–6.3 lens kit — Save $ 200
$ 1,499, usually $ 1,699 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Z50 Creator’s Kit — Save $ 100
$ 1,049, usually $ 1,149 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

D750 (body only) — Save $ 200
$ 1,499, usually $ 1,699 (Adorama, B&H, Nikon)

D850 (body only) — Save $ 500 (currently back ordered)
$ 2,499, usually $ 2,999 (Adorama, B&H, Nikon)

Lenses

Nikkor Z 50mm F1.8 S — Save $ 100 (currently back ordered)
$ 499, usually $ 599 (Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Nikkor Z 35mm F1.8 S — Save $ 150
$ 699, usually $ 849 (Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Nikkor Z 85mm F1.8 S — Save $ 100 (currently back ordered)
$ 699, usually $ 799 (B&H, Nikon)

Nikkor Z 14–30mm F4 S — Save $ 200
$ 1,099, usually $ 1,299 (Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

Nikkor Z 24–70mm F2.8 S — Save $ 300
$ 1,999, usually $ 2,299 (Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

AF-S Nikkor 24–70mm F2.8E ED VR — Save $ 500
$ 1,599, usually $ 2,099 (Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

AF-S Nikkor 70–200mm F2.8E FL ED VR — Save $ 450
$ 1,899, usually $ 2,349 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Nikon)

AF-S Nikkor 500mm F5.6E PF ED VR — Save $ 300
$ 3,299, usually $ 3,599 (Amazon, B&H, Nikon)


Panasonic

Coming soon…


Sigma

18–35mm F1.8 DC HSM | A Save $ 120
$ 679, usually $ 799 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

24–70mm F2.8 DG OS HSM | A Save $ 240
$ 1,059, usually $ 1,299 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

24–70mm F2.8 DG DN | A Save $ 240
$ 1,059, usually $ 1,299 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

24–105mm F4 DG OS HSM | A Save $ 100
$ 799, usually $ 899 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

70–200mm F2.8 DG OS HSM | S Save $ 160
$ 1,339, usually $ 1,499 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

16mm F1.4 DC DN | C Save $ 50
$ 399, usually $ 449 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

30mm F1.4 DC DN | C Save $ 50
$ 289, usually $ 339 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

35mm F1.4 DG HSM | A Save $ 200
$ 699, usually $ 899 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

45mm F2.8 DG DN | C Save $ 100
$ 449, usually $ 549 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

50mm F1.4 DG HSM | A Save $ 150
$ 799, usually $ 949 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

56mm F1.4 DC DN | C Save $ 50
$ 429, usually $ 479 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

85mm F1.4 DG HSM | A Save $ 150
$ 1049, usually $ 1,199 (Amazon, B&H, Sigma)

MC-11 Mount Converter Save $ 100
$ 149, usually $ 249 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Sigma)


Sony

Cameras

a7 III — Save $ 300
$ 1,698, usually $ 1,998 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

a7 III with 28–70mm lens — Save $ 300
$ 1,898, usually $ 2,198 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

a7 III with 24–105mm lens — Save $ 600
$ 2,880, usually $ 3,480 (Adorama, B&H)

a7R IV (body only) — Save $ 500
$ 2,998, usually $ 3,498 (Adorama, B&H)

a7R IV with 24–70mm F2.8 lens — Save $ 715
$ 5,118, usually $ 5,833 (B&H)

a7R II — Save $ 600
$ 1,198, usually $ 1,798 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

a6000 with 16–50mm Lens — Save $ 150
$ 498, usually $ 648 (B&H)

a6600 (body only) — Save $ 100
$ 1,298, usually $ 1,398 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

ZV-1 — Save $ 100
$ 698, usually $ 798 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

Lenses

FE 35mm F1.8 Lens — Save $ 50
$ 698, usually $ 748 (Amazon, B&H)

FE 16–35mm F2.8 GM Lens — Save $ 200
$ 1,998, usually $ 2,198 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

FE 24–70mm F2.8 GM Lens — Save $ 200
$ 1,998, usually $ 2,198 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

FE 24–105mm F4 lens — Save $ 300
$ 1,098, usually $ 1,398 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

FE 70–200mm F2.8 GM OSS Lens — Save $ 200
$ 2,398, usually $ 2,598 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

Vario-Tessar T FE 16–35mm F4 Lens — Save $ 250
$ 1,098, usually $ 1,349 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)

Vario-Tessar T* FE 24–70mm f/4 Lens — Save $ 200
$ 698, usually $ 898 (Adorama, Amazon, B&H)


Please note, DPReview is a wholly-owned but editorially independent subsidiary of Amazon. This article was put together entirely and exclusively by DPReview’s editorial staff, without any involvement from our parent company.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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iFixit tears down the iPhone 12 Pro Max, showcasing new camera tech

24 Nov

Customers have gotten their hands on Apple’s latest family of iPhones, including the largest iPhone ever, the iPhone 12 Pro Max. While customers have been enjoying using the new phones, over at iFixit, the team has been busy tearing them apart. They’ve taken apart the iPhone 12 mini and the two medium-sized iPhone 12s, the 12 and 12 Pro. Over this past weekend, the iFixit crew got to work dismantling the iPhone 12 Pro Max.

Image courtesy of iFixit and Creative Electron.

Before diving in, it’s worth recapping the iPhone 12 Pro Max’s features. It is powered by an Apple A14 Bionic system on chip and includes 6GB of RAM. Internal storage options include 128GB, 256GB and 512GB options. The phone features a 6.7″ Super Retina XDR OLED display with a P3 wide color gamut and Apple’s True Tone technology. It is the largest display ever in an iPhone, and according to DisplayMate, it’s a fantastic display.

iPhone 12 Pro Max camera modules. Image courtesy of iFixit.

With respect to photography, the iPhone 12 Pro Max has unique components. It has a 12MP triple camera system like the iPhone 12 Pro, but the Max includes a 47% larger image sensor, a faster F1.6 lens, improved image stabilization, a new 65mm (equivalent) telephoto lens, and improved high ISO performance. If you want to learn more about the performance of the new camera system in the iPhone 12 Pro Max, check out this article: ‘Halide’s deep dive into why the iPhone 12 Pro Max is made for ‘Real Pro Photography’.

X-ray image of the iPhone 12 Pro Max’s rear camera module. The bottom left camera, the standard wide angle camera, has a 47% larger image sensor than the camera found in the iPhone 12 Pro. The four black magnets around the same camera are used for the new sensor-shift image stabilization feature, found exclusively in the iPhone 12 Pro Max and not Apple’s other iPhone 12 models. Image courtesy of Creative Electron and iFixit.

After taking apart the iPhone 12 Pro Max’s new case construction, iFixit was able to investigate the new camera array. As you can see in the x-ray image above captured by Creative Electron, the standard wide camera (shown bottom left) has a noticeably larger image sensor. You can also see magnets around the sensor, which are being used for the new sensor-shift image stabilization tech found exclusively in the iPhone 12 Pro Max. For those lamenting the lack of the larger sensor in the standard iPhone 12 Pro, iFixit states that ‘There’s a decent chance this sensor wouldn’t fit in the cramped corner of the smaller iPhone 12 Pro without compromises.’

Close-up image of the standard wide angle camera module in the iPhone 12 Pro Max. Image courtesy of iFixit.

There’s a lot to see inside the iPhone 12 Pro Max. You can head to iFixit’s teardown for more photos and information about the different internal components and how they relate to the features of the iPhone 12 Pro Max. You can also see a replay of iFixit’s live-streamed teardown of the phone below.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Slideshow: Winners and finalists of the 2020 Ocean Photographer of the Year awards

23 Nov

Winners and finalists of the 2020 Ocean Photographer of the Year awards

Oceanographic Magazine announced the winners and finalists for its annual Ocean Photographer of the Year awards. Over 3,000 images were submitted to six categories. Canadian photographer Nadia Aly was named Ocean Photographer of the Year and also received the Collective Portfolio award.

‘The photograph is perfectly exposed, compellingly dramatic and deeply intriguing. I know from experience that this image was not easy to create. Nadia Aly’s acknowledgement as the Ocean Photographer of the Year is a testament not only to the sheer power and uniqueness of her imagery, but to her journey as a photographer as well,’ says awards judge Cristina Mittermeier.

This top-down image of crabeater seals resting on icebergs has won Florian Ledoux many accolades, from international photography competitions, throughout the year.

Florian Ledoux, who received a third place nod in the Conservation category for his image (above) of crabeater seals resting on icebergs, told DPReview: ‘It gives my work even more exposure and a deep sense to it, and a bigger commitment toward conservation of the oceans’ ecosystems that makes our life possible on Earth. It is an honor be amongst very talented photographers working in the same direction with love for the planet.’

All winners, and highly commended images, can be viewed here.

Winner, The Ocean Photographer of the Year: Nadia Aly

Artist Statement: An aggregation of mobula rays in clear waters off Baja California Sur, Mexico.

Runner-Up, The Ocean Photographer of the Year: Sacha Specker

Artist Statement: Between two realms. A surfer seemingly waves to the world below as he surfs a wave at Log Cabins, Oahu, Hawaii.

Third Place, The Ocean Photographer of the Year: Magnus Lundborg

Artist Statement: A rare white southern right whale photographed off Puerto Pirámides, Argentina.

Winner, Young Photographer of the Year: Cruz Erdmann

Artist Statement: The silky tentacles of a brightly coloured Magnificent Anemone sway in surging water, exposing Maldivian anemone fish. Laamu Atoll, South Maldives.

Runner-Up, Young Photographer of the Year: Ben Cammarata

Artist Statement: A juvenile black skimmer hunts for prey at the water’s surface. Martha’s Vineyard, USA.

Third Place, Young Photographer of the Year: Kyla McKlay

Artist Statement: A dolphin breaches the waterline, USA.

Winner, Community Choice Award: Tobias Baumgaertner

Artist Statement: Two penguins look out across the water, Melbourne’s lights in the distance. St Kilda, Australia.

Winner, Ocean Conservation Photographer of the Year: Matt Sharp

Artist Statement: A hermit crab crawls atop a pile of plastic in a shell made from manmade waste in the Maldives.


Runner-Up, Ocean Conservation Photographer of the Year: Andrea Benvenutti

Artist Statement: A plastic bottle lies amongst the nests of the world’s largest colony of imperial cormorants, 100km south of Puerto Madryn, Argentina.


Third Place, Ocean Conservation Photographer of the Year: Joe Daniels

Artist Statement: A diver’s regulator holder cuts into the flesh of an oceanic whitetip shark, damaging its gills. Photographed in the Red Sea, Egypt.

Winner, Ocean Exploration Photographer of the Year: Ben Cranke

Artist Statement: Penguins march through heavy snowfall and strong winds in St. Andrews Bay, South Georgia, Antarctica.

Runner-Up, Ocean Exploration Photographer of the Year: Karim Iliya

Artist Statement: A freediver explores a cave in Tonga.

Winner, Ocean Adventure Photographer of the Year: Jason Gulley

Artist Statement: A freediving instructor waits for their student to return from a dive below Cenote Angelita’s microbial cloud. Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.

Runner-Up, Ocean Adventure Photographer of the Year: Sean Scott

Artist Statement: Two sharks surf a wave at Red Bluff, Quobba Station, in remote Western Australia.

Third Place, Ocean Adventure Photographer of the Year: Duncan Murrell

Artist Statement: Three spinetail devil rays engage in sexual courtship – a behavior rarely observed or photographed. Honda Bay, Philippines.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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