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Three Mistakes That Kill Image Quality (and How to Avoid Them)

16 Aug

The post Three Mistakes That Kill Image Quality (and How to Avoid Them) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

We all want to make the highest quality photographs we possibly can, right? Hopefully, you just gave a very slow yet very serious head nod in agreement to that statement.

There are a host of factors that play into the final quality of your digital images. Even the phrase “image quality” seems to be the best way to sum up all the pieces that have to come together for us to consider our photographs to be of high quality. Sharpness, composition, color balance and contrast are a few variables that jump to mind along with a multitude of others that we can and cannot control.

image-quality-mistakes

In this article, we’re going to look at three mistakes that you could very well be making with your photography right now which could be sabotaging your image quality before they ever leave your camera. Luckily, all of these mistakes are easily remedied once you realize they exist. Let’s get started.

Shooting “wide open” all the time

Make no mistake, from a lens standpoint, we live in an extraordinary time. Lens manufacturers have evolved to the point where we currently see extremely well-constructed optics with beautiful sharpness capable of shooting with relatively enormous apertures.

Not even a decade ago, you virtually could not find a “fast zoom” lens with a maximum aperture wider than F/4 for less than a $ 1,000US – at I least I never did.

Now, it has become blissfully common to acquire an outstanding F/2.8 or wider lens without taking out a second mortgage on your home.

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This new age of lens evolution comes with a few caveats, though. Just because your lens is a low-light beast capable of shooting at F/1.4, doesn’t mean that is an ideal aperture for every situation. You see, lenses have certain “optimum apertures” which provide the sharpest results for that particular lens.

In most cases, the widest aperture of your lens, while providing the best light gathering and arguably the best bokeh, is usually the worst optical setting for your lens. The widest aperture setting of your lens often makes nasty little image problems more apparent. Chromatic aberrations, edge softening, and vignetting all become more pronounced when you shoot wide open.

The solution:

Stop down your lens, even if it’s only by a stop or two. You’ll lose some light, but you will also likely see a markedly visible increase in image sharpness and overall quality. While it’s true that not all lenses are created equal (some show shockingly fantastic performance even at their widest apertures), the outcome will probably only become better if you stop down.

Three Mistakes That Kill Image Quality (and How to Avoid Them)

A good F/1.4 lens will be great at F/2.8 and likely outstanding at F/4. If you’re worried about losing that “creamy” bokeh, you may be surprised to see how little background blur you lose with a couple of stops on the wide end of your aperture. It depends on the relative distance of objects in the scene as much as it does on the aperture.

So if you’re suffering from a lack of sharpness and heavy vignetting try stopping down that lens and observe your results.

Poor body mechanics

No matter your gear, conditions or subject matter, if your camera is moving unintentionally, then your images will likely never be as technically qualitative as they could be. Camera shake robs sharpness and can make an otherwise strong image unusable.

Some of us can naturally hold our cameras more steady than others. In-camera or in-lens image stabilization can help, and of course, a trusty tripod is always a good shooting companion.

All of those things aside, simply being conscious of your body mechanics can go a long way to improve the quality of your photographs. At the same time, a bad grip on the camera and poor bodily positioning can cost you a photo.

The solution:

Whenever you’re shooting handheld, be mindful of how your hands grip the camera and the position of your arms and legs. Keep a flat-footed stance with your legs about shoulder-width apart. If you’re using a DSLR or other interchangeable lens camera, grip the camera body firmly with your right hand with your left supporting the lens. Also apply slight opposing pressure (push with the right, pull with the left). Tuck your arms in close to your body for maximum stability.

This will work to help steady your shot. Along those same lines, gently press the shutter button instead of sharply pushing down, which can lead to the camera jerking.

image-quality-mistakes

Elbows tucked, solid grip and lens support.

Bonus tip:

Be mindful of a handy little formula called the “Reciprocal Rule.” This rule will help you approximate the slowest shutter speed based on your focal length to avoid moderate camera shake. The Reciprocal Rule is incredibly simple:

Three Mistakes That Kill Image Quality (and How to Avoid Them)

So, if you’re shooting with a 50mm lens, the slowest shutter speed you should use would be 1/50th of a second. Shooting at 100mm? Your slowest shutter speed should be 1/100th of a second and so on and so forth. This is not an ironclad rule but it is a highly practical one.

For more ways to obtain sharper images be sure to check out my other article 4 Simple Ways to Get Sharper Photos

Neglecting your settings

As simple as it sounds, not being cognizant of your camera’s settings is one of the most frustratingly preventable image quality killers that you will ever encounter. Consistently out of focus images? Check that your viewfinder diopter is adjusted to your eyesight – especially if you wear corrective lenses. Are your photos suddenly pixelated at high magnification? Make sure you haven’t accidentally changed your camera’s resolution (happens more than you might think) to a lesser megapixel count.

Three Mistakes That Kill Image Quality (and How to Avoid Them)

These are just a couple of points to consider, but there are many more. The bottom line is that if you aren’t continuously aware of what your gear is doing, not only are being a sloppy photographer, but you are also limiting yourself and your work for virtually no reason at all.

The solution:

Brace yourself for a huge surprise! Just kidding.

The easiest way to fix a neglectful mindset towards your shooting is to force yourself to remain vigilant. This means constant checks of your deep camera settings such as image and video resolution/format, camera firmware, and micro AF lens adjustments. Sure, keeping track of all these things isn’t an immersively fun experience, but neither are bad photographs.

Do yourself and your photos a favor and never fall into the trap of complacency when it comes to your camera’s settings.

Summing up…

We all could be better at doing the things we love. Each one of us, no matter how experienced or accomplished, will always make mistakes with our photography. The only way we can prevent those image quality mistakes from constantly occurring, and improve the quality of our photos is to make sure we are aware that anything is wrong in the first place. If you do not see the quality of images you would like, the first step towards finding out the problem is realizing that there is one. From there it’s just a matter of working the problem until you resolve it or significantly mediate it.

Put the tips we’ve listed here to work, and you’ll see your image quality improving immediately.

Oh and remember, we’re all in this together! Feel free to share any other tips for image sharpness, or if you have a sticky little issue with your picture quality, feel free to let us know in the comment section, and hopefully, the community can help!

image-quality-mistakes

The post Three Mistakes That Kill Image Quality (and How to Avoid Them) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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How to Make Three Instagram-Inspired Filter Effects in Photoshop

14 Jul

The post How to Make Three Instagram-Inspired Filter Effects in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

Instagram has taken the world by storm. The image-based social media platform allows users to post images and videos, and receive feedback from others across the globe.

Instagram also offers a large number of filters, giving users the option to customize their media before uploading to Instagram.

However, there are downsides to leaning on Instagram for image-editing. Uploading to Instagram sacrifices resolution and the ability to share filtered images to other media is limited.

In this tutorial, we’ll apply Nashville, Amaro and Brannan-Instagram-inspired filter effects to your photographs in Photoshop that are non-destructive and can be used anywhere. Plus they look good too!

Nashvillle

The Nashville filter warms highlights and adds a blueish tint to darker areas of an image. It also decreases contrast and increases exposure.

Instagram-inspired-Filter-Effects-7

Step one:

First, open your image.

Keep in mind that throughout this tutorial, the efficacy of each Instagram-inspired filter can differ from image-to-image. While I’ve provided specific settings as a guide, don’t be afraid to experiment a little for optimum results.

Step two:

Create a Curves Adjustment Layer by clicking on the Curves icon in the Adjustments panel. If you aren’t sure what icon means what, rest your mouse over an icon and a description will appear. If you can’t see an Adjustment panel at all, click on Window -> Adjustments to bring it up.

In the Curves Adjustment Layer panel, select the Green channel from the RGB dropdown menu and set the Input to 15 and the Output to 40 (you may need to click on the Curve line to activate the text boxes).

Then select the Blue channel and set the Input to 84 and the Output to 140

Instagram-inspired-Filter-Effects-6

Step three:

Go to Layer->New Fill Layer->Solid Color.

Click OK at the first prompt.

In the Color Picker window, select a cream tone. For this image, I used the HEX code #fedfb9, which produces nice a warm glow. You can copy the HEX code I selected by clicking on the lowest text box in the Color Picker (next to the hash symbol) and entering “fedfb9.”

Click OK and change the Blending Mode of the Color Fill layer to Multiply. Blending Modes are located in a drop-down menu in the Layers pallet, next to the Opacity drop-down menu.

Step five:

Create a Brightness/Contrast Adjustment Layer and set the Brightness slider to 5 and the Contrast slider to 90.

Instagram-inspired-Filter-Effects-5

Finally, create a Levels Adjustment Layer and enter 1.50 in the Midtone text box and 235 in the Highlights text box.

And there you go!

You can crop your image to a square format for an extra level of Instagram authenticity, or leave as is.

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Amaro

Amaro is a popular filter with a film-inspired appearance and a dark vignette to draw attention to the center of an image.

Step one:

Open your selected image in Photoshop.

Step two:

Create a Brightness/Contrast Adjustment Layer and set the Brightness value to 50 and the Contrast to 30.

Instagram-inspired-Filter-Effects-3

Step three:

Next, go to Layer->New Fill Layer->Solid Color and click OK at the first prompt.

In the Color Picker, select a cream tone. For my image I used #fef7df. Click OK and set the Blending Mode of the color fill layer to Multiply.

Step four:

Create a Levels Adjustment Layer and in the default RGB channel, enter 25 into the left Output Levels text box. In the Blue channel, enter 60 into the left Output Levels text box.

To adjust the intensity of your colors, open a Color Balance Adjustment Layer. Under Midtones, increase the Red slider to 20. You can also decrease the Green and Blue values to around -15.

Crop your image if you like.

Step five:

Then, to add a vignette, right-click on your image layer and select Duplicate Layer.

With your duplicated layer selected click Filter->Lens Correction->Custom and adjust the Vignette sliders.

For my image, I set the Amount slider to +65 and the Midpoint to +23.

Click OK and you’re done!

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Brannan

Brannan boosts contrast and exposure, adding a yellow tint to an image.

Step one:

Begin by opening your image.

Open a Levels Adjustment Layer. In the RGB channel, set the left Output Level text box to 25.

Step two:

Open a Brightness/Contrast Adjustment Layer. Set your Brightness to 10. Then set your Contrast from around 70 to 100.

Step three:

Go to Layer->New Fill Layer->Solid Color…  Select a soft yellow color. I used the HEX code #f5f1a3.

Step four:

Change the Blending Mode of the Fill Layer to Multiply. Then set the yellow layer’s Opacity to around 50 or 60%.

Brannan is a high-contrast filter. Depending on your image, an additional Curves Adjustment Layer may be required to boost your contrast further.

Step five:

Crop the image to a square if you like and add a vignette by duplicating your image layer, selecting Filter->Lens Correction->Custom and adjusting the Vignette sliders.

Then, you’re done!

Instagram-inspired-Filter-Effects-1

Conclusion

Filters add a new dimension to any Instagram photograph. By applying Instagram-inspired adjustments to your images in Photoshop, you can emulate the Instagram feel of a filter without compromising on flexibility or image quality.

Go out and try some of these Instagram-inspired filter effects and share with us in the comments below.

 

instagram-inspired-filter-effect

The post How to Make Three Instagram-Inspired Filter Effects in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Video: Google’s Super Resolution algorithm explained in three minutes

30 May

Space constraints in the thin bodies of modern smartphones mean camera engineers are limited in terms of the size of image sensors they can use in their designs. Manufacturers have therefore been pushing computational imaging methods in order to improve the quality of their devices’ image output.

Google’s Super Resolution algorithm is one such method. It involves shooting a burst of raw photos every time the shutter is pressed and takes advantage of the user’s natural hand-shake, even if it is ever so slight. The pixel-level differences between each of the frames in the burst can be used to merge several images of the burst into an output file with optimized detail at each pixel location.

An illustration that shows how multiple frames are aligned to create the final image.

Google uses the Super Resolution in the Night Sight feature and Super-Res zoom of the Pixel 3 devices and has previously published an in-depth article about it on its blog . Our own Rishi Sanyal has also had a close look at the technology and the features it has been implemented in.

A visual representation of the steps used to create the final image from a burst of Raw input images.

Now Google has published the above video that provides a great overview of the the technology in just over three minutes.

‘This approach, which includes no explicit demosaicing step, serves to both increase image resolution and boost signal to noise ratio,’ write the Google researchers in the paper the video is based on. ‘Our algorithm is robust to challenging scene conditions: local motion, occlusion, or scene changes. It runs at 100 milliseconds per 12-megapixel RAW input burst frame on mass-produced mobile phones.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time – Part Three – Post-Processing for Exposure Optimization

26 Apr

The post How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time – Part Three – Post-Processing for Exposure Optimization appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Digital photography allows us an incredible scope to work on our computers to enhance and manipulate images. Optimizing your exposures during post-processing can make a dull, flat-looking photograph into a much more vibrant and interesting one.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every TimeMarket Guy

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

My approach to post-processing most of the time is to make my photos look as they did when I captured them or with some variation to the background tone. Because our eyes see more dynamic range than our cameras, this means I am working to balance my exposure and the way the light looks in the photo.

RAW or Jpg?

If your photos are saved only as jpg’s, your camera will have made certain tweaks to them already. It may have added some sharpening, color balance, contrast tweaks and possibly manipulated them in other ways. Jpg images as designed to look good straight out of your camera and may require little or no post-processing.

If you do decide to work on your jpg files, you will face limitations because of the file quality. As your camera saves jpg files, it compresses them and discards some of the information from the photos. Jpgs are technically lower quality which means they do not stand up to as much post-processing as RAW files do.

RAW files contain all the information your camera captured when you pressed the shutter release. They do not look great when you first see them because the camera has not altered them at all during the capturing and saving process.

To make a RAW file look good you must make some adjustments manually or use a preset or Action to make them for you. The technical quality of a RAW file is superior because there is no data lost from what your camera recorded. You have a greater capacity to be able to manipulate these files without losing quality.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Temple and Big Sky

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Choose your best photos

From each series of photographs you make I hope that you will have a number of exposure options to choose from when you sit down at your computer. Picking the best images to work on is the first part of post-processing.

Naturally, you’ll be wanting to pay most attention to the main subject in your photo. Is it exposed the way you want it to be? Can you see that there’s sufficient detail in those areas of your composition?

In some cases, such as when you’ve made a silhouette or are using low-key lighting and high contrast, you may have little or no detail in your subject. This is okay if that’s what you want.

However, if exposing for detail was your intention, and there’s not enough in your photo, look at the pictures where you used different exposure settings.

Your background exposure is also important. Does it enhance and support your main subject? Is it too bright or too dark? Again, look to see if there is detail. When there’s no detail, because of overexposure or underexposure, it will be more difficult to manipulate these areas.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Attractive Young Photographer

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Make use of the histogram

Your histogram gives you information about the tonal values in your images. It shows you where the most detail is and if you have lost detail in the bright or dark parts of your compositions.

If your histogram is bunched up to the left or the right of the chart, with the graphic touching the top, this means there will be no detail recorded in those areas.

If you can see a histogram bunched to the right and hitting the top, you will have lost detail in the highlights. If it’s bunched to the left and hitting the top, you have lost detail in the dark areas.

If your main subject is within this range and you wanted it to contain detail, you will need to choose a photo with a different exposure setting to work on.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Hill Tribe Girl

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Using presets or manual manipulation

Lightroom and Photoshop come with presets and Actions. These can be used to help balance your exposure. You can also download many more or make and save your own. These tools can enhance and speed up your post-processing workflow.

I often chose one of a variety of presets as I begin to post process a photograph. Rarely do I apply a preset without then tweaking it further. Every exposure you make is different, so to get your photos looking their best some manual manipulation is usually best.

Working your highlights and shadows

Having been careful to expose your main subject well, you may already be happy with its tone value. However, some parts of your composition may still need tweaking to get them looking the way you want.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Happy Hat Wearer

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Your intention is the most important. How do you want your photograph to look?

Here are two examples of different manipulations made to the same RAW file.

Example one: Dark background

I wanted to make the background darker so the roses would stand out. Using a preset I made in Lightroom, I then made further manual adjustments. I controlled the Blacks, Dehaze, Contrast, and Shadows sliders.

When making this kind of adjustment to manipulate the background of your image, pay attention to your main subject also. These sliders make universal changes to your photos so affect your main subject as well.

With a light-toned main subject and a predominantly dark background, the changes I made did not have much effect on the roses.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Lightroom Dark

I then opened the photo, with the Lightroom adjustments, in Photoshop. At this stage, I darkened the lightest part of the photo to lower the overall tone range.

There are many techniques you can darken or lighten specific areas of a photo. I prefer to use the Dodge and Burn tools set to a low exposure to do this. I also used the Patch tool to remove a few of the brighter areas in the background.

As a result, the background is darker, and the highlights on the rose are not so bright.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time

Example Two: Light Background

To render a lighter, softer look, I took the Dehaze slider towards the left, and the Shadows towards the right. I added a little more Black and some Contrast, otherwise the image looked too flat.

Next, using Photoshop, I tweaked the highlights a little so they were not so bright.

How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time Roses

In both of these examples, my main objective was to enhance the roses because they are my main subject.

The background tone is also important. Between the two examples, there is the most difference in the tone of the background. This has a large impact on the overall feel of the photo.

Conclusion

As with all post-processing, there are a variety of methods you can use to gain similar results. Here I have demonstrated a few techniques I am comfortable using.

Concentrating primarily on the tone of your main subject in relation to the background is a good place to start when post-processing. Once you have made adjustments you are satisfied with, you can then move on and make other changes to your photos if you wish.

Aim to expose your main subject the way you want at the time of making your photos. Doing so allows you more flexibility to make changes in post-production and not lose quality. If you are stuck working with a main subject that’s either underexposed or overexposed, you will be limited in how much you can achieve.

Experimentation is the best way to discover how you like to work with photo manipulation software. There is no right or wrong way to work with your photos so long as you achieve the result you want.

You may also like

  • How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time. Part 1 – Seeing the Light
  • How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time. Part Two: Managing Your Exposure

 

The post How to Make Well Exposed Photos Every Time – Part Three – Post-Processing for Exposure Optimization appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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Multi Turret rotating prototype mounts three lenses on a single camera

13 Apr

The folks at Newsshooter recently published a demonstration of Multi Turret, a rotating mount that enables camera operators to quickly toggle between three different lenses. The Multi Turret originates from cinematographer Ian Kerr CSC, according to Newsshooter, and was showcased at NAB 2019.

Multi Turret is currently in the prototype stage; versions have been created that are compatible with the Sony FS7 Mk2, A7S/R, Venice, and other alpha-mount cameras. According to a website dedicated to the Multi Turret, future models compatible with Arri and Red cameras are expected ‘shortly.’

The prototype demonstrated to Newsshooter supports three Canon EF lenses, but other versions that support PL, K, F, and other mounts ‘are likely also possible,’ according to the Multi Turret site. Switching between lenses only requires the camera operator to rotate the mount, which repositions a different lens in front of the camera.

According to Kerr, who has registered the design with the USPTO, Multi Turret enables users to:

  • Switch quickly between lenses (prime or lightweight zoom) without an assistant, lens case or incurring the wrath of a director who won’t wait for a conventional lens change.
  • Select from multiple focal lengths while still using primes and the depth of field/ low-light capabilities they provide.
  • Select from a wider range of field of views (and speeds) than any zoom can provide. An example would be mounting 14mm, 35mm and 135mm high-speed lenses.
  • The length, weight and centre of gravity of the system is reduced compared to larger ratio zoom lenses. Great for shooting in cars or handheld.
  • The Multi Turret allows for the conversion of lens mount types and camera mount types. For example, you could mount a PL mount lens, and EF lens and an F mount lenses on the same turret and switch rapidly between them.
  • Love that unique visual “swing” effect that occurs when you switch between lenses.
  • Customize your lens package for the scene you’re shooting. Wildlife at night? All long primes! In-car work? A short zoom, a 20mm and a 35mm or whatever you prefer. Throw a Swing/ Tilt or Lens Baby in the mix!

Multi Turret is only a prototype at this time and therefore is not available commercially. Anyone interested in knowing more about the prototype and what lead to its creation can check out the team’s Multi Turret Manifesto.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Prism Lens FX launches three lens filters with built-in prism and flare effects

02 Apr

Prism Lens FX has launched a new line of lens filters that have built-in prism effects. The Variable Prism Filters are being sold as a three-filter bundle and individually with three different filter options: Prism, Chromatic Flare, and Split Glass. Each product is offered as a 77mm rotating filter alongside an optional 82mm to 77mm step down ring.

The Variable Prism Filters offer unique effects without the need to hold items in front of the lens. All three products are recommended for use with 50mm or greater telephoto lenses and a 1.4 / 2 / 2.8 aperture. The Prism filter is designed to add bokeh and flares to images, while the Chromatic Flare filter adds streak / anamorphic flares and the Split filter adds fractal / light leak effects. Below is a gallery of sample images captured with the filters:

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Preorders are now available with each filter priced at $ 75 and the three-filter bundle at $ 195. Shipments are expected to start in mid to late April.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Three things I love about the Pixel 3 and one that I don’t

24 Mar

The Google Pixel 3 has been my primary camera – and media consumption device, alarm clock, etc. – for over a month now. It will be no surprise to anyone that I’m finding the camera to be really, really good, but there are a few features in particular that stand out to me as excellent. In no particular order, here’s what I’m liking so far about the Pixel 3’s camera, and one area I’m not as crazy about.

Night Sight

You’ve heard all the hype about how good Night Sight is, and it’s true. Night Sight will allow you to take usable photos in incredibly dim conditions. I think the best compliment I can give Night Sight is that the example image above doesn’t convey just how dark the scene in my shot was. The Mexican restaurant looks pleasantly bright and festive – in reality, it was extremely dim (but still festive).

Night Sight is also a great alternative for low-light selfies when flash is a no-no, if everyone in the shot can stay reasonably still. Pro tip: don’t blink or move your eyes or it’ll make you look a little bit like a zombie. In any case, it’s really nice to have a usable alternative to completely destroying the vibe of a mood-lit bar with a smartphone flash.

Finally, Night Sight is also useful for static subjects in any kind of lighting if you want to capture more detail, thanks to its use of Super Resolution (more on that here). The rendering of *individual fibers* in the blanket in the shot above blows my mind. Getting that level of detail out of such a small sensor is a real technological innovation.

Wide angle selfie

We’re weird, okay?

This was a feature I didn’t expect to use much, but it’s really helpful when you need it. I’ve used it on a couple of occasions when there was something in the background I wanted to get into the photo I was taking.

In both cases I considered the shot that I wanted, thought to myself there was no way that I could get the shot, then remembered the wide-angle front facing camera. Boom. Problem solved.

Portrait Mode

Portrait Mode is of course, not new, but it’s been further improved in the Pixel 3. Google used machine learning to train the camera to better ‘cut out’ things like human subjects. We find that it does a better job with human hair than the iPhone (you can see how the iPhone does here), creating a more realistic effect rather than something that looks obviously digitally manipulated.

The ability to throw a busy background out of focus – even if the overall effect isn’t 100% convincing – is still better to me than the alternative.

As a side note, my personal smartphone is an “ancient” iPhone SE, which doesn’t offer Portrait Mode. I’ve gotten pretty attached to it shooting with the Pixel 3, and many of my favorite images taken with the camera are Portrait Mode shots. To me, it feels a little bit like Wi-Fi on traditional cameras. When the feature was introduced it was a little gimmicky and not all that useful, but now that it’s reliable and much improved, it’s becoming something I don’t want to live without.

Muted color rendition

Out of camera JPEG “Auto” edits applied in Google Photos

The thing I’m not as crazy about is more a matter of personal taste – the Pixel 3 tends toward more muted, natural colors. Plenty of people will prefer that, but I’m partial to a little more warmth and punch in my images. Colors are a little flat for my taste, and in some instances (backlit subjects are a big one) auto exposure doesn’t quite get things right.

In spite of this, I think the greatest testament to the Pixel 3 is that I’ve been taking more pictures lately. When I’m out and about and see a photo, I don’t have to talk myself out of taking a picture because I only have my phone with me. More often than not, I’m finding that I *can* get that photo, or something close to what I envisioned.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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CFexpress 2.0 cards will be offered in three sizes with different maximum speeds

15 Mar

In February, the CompactFlash Association announced the CFexpress 2.0 specification, a follow-up to the CFexpress 1.0 specification first revealed in late 2016. The new 2.0 spec update brings two more form factors to CFexpress, both targeting industrial and professional imaging markets, according to the association. The two new form factors join the original, ushering in Type A, Type B and Type C cards.

CFexpress 2.0 Type A cards are the smallest of the three form factors at 20mm x 28mm x 2.8mm, which is a bit smaller than a standard SD card. The Type A cards feature a Gen3 PCIe interface with 1 lane and a maximum theoretical performance of 1000MB/s.

The Type B card has the same dimensions as XQD cards at 38.5mm x 29.8mm x 3.8mm; this variety has a Gen3, 2 lanes interface and max theoretical performance of 2000MB/s. Finally, the Type C form factor is largest at 54mm x 74mm x 4.8mm with a Gen3, 4 lanes interface and max theoretical performance of 4000MB/s.

The different form factors offer manufacturers flexibility in choosing which card type their devices will utilize, such as the small card with a priority on compact size instead of transfer speeds, or the largest card with a focus on speed at the expense of compactness. Japanese publication DC.Watch shared images of these different card form factors earlier this month.

According to the CF Association, the CFexpress 2.0 specification is designed for a variety of needs, including imaging, which specifically includes DSLRs, mirrorless cameras, drone cameras and video cameras.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Three Legged Thing launches ‘Ellie,’ a versatile L-bracket for modern camera systems

14 Feb

Tripod manufacturer Three Legged Thing has developed a new L-bracket that’s designed to be adaptable to fit a wider range of cameras, and which will allow users to mount their camera in a variety of ways. Called Ellie, the bracket features sliding bars that allow size adjustment, dual Arca-Swiss mounting platforms and additional threads for attaching accessories such as microphones.

Ellie is made from ‘aerospace grade magnesium alloy’ and uses a pair of stainless steel sliding bars that allow users to tailor the length of the baseplate to suit the size of the camera. Two screw threads on the base offer a choice of mounting positions, while an opening in the construction provides space and access when L-shaped cables need to be connected to ports on the camera body.

As the position of these cable ports varies from one model to the next the bracket allows four mounting configurations to ensure the cut away section will correspond with ports in as many cameras as possible.

The bracket can be dissembled so the base doubles as a quick release plate, and both ends of the vertical standard feature two screw threads that will accept macro arms, flash attachments or audio equipment.

Ellie will be available in anodised copper or metallic slate grey color options in mid-March and will cost £64.99 / $ 69.99.

For more information see the Three Legged Thing website.

  • Horizontal Aspect Length: 95 mm – 128 mm / 3.74 “ – 5.04 “
  • Horizontal Aspect Width: 38 mm / 1.5 “
  • Vertical Aspect Height: 85 mm / 3.35 “
  • Vertical Aspect Width: 38 mm / 1.5 “
  • Weight: 96 g / 0.21 lb
  • Compatibility – Standard Arca-Swiss

Press release

3 Legged Thing Introduces Next Evolution of Universal L-Brackets

The award-winning British tripod maker announces a new Universal L-Bracket with increased compatibility with a wider range of cameras, and advanced functionality.

3 Legged Thing has announced a new evolution of universal L-Bracket. Following on from the huge success of the world’s best-selling L-Bracket 3 Legged Thing’s QR11-L, Ellie brings another dimension of compatibility with a wide range of mirrorless and DSLR cameras, and an unprecedented level of innovation.

L-Brackets are primarily used to switch from landscape to portrait on a tripod, whilst maintaining the focal plane and horizon. They are particularly popular with landscape, architecture, and studio photographers, yet used by photographers across all genres.

3LT Founder & CEO Danny Lenihan commented: “Ellie is the culmination of a year’s development and testing, and is built on the foundations of QR11 and hundreds of comments and emails from customers since the QR11 launched in 2017. It’s been a fantastic challenge for myself and the team, with more than a few hiccups in the process, but I’m delighted to be introducing what we believe is a new chapter in L-Bracket innovation.”

Compatible with standard Arca-Swiss clamps, Ellie’s design features 2 different screw mount slots in the base, allowing users to position the L-Bracket in the optimal position for their camera. The length of the bracket base can be adjusted thanks to two rigid stainless steel sliding bars which are then fixed into position by the user. The rear edge of the base is sloped to better enable screen access.

Ellie’s vertical aspect has an opening in one side, allowing users with L-shaped cable pins to connect accessories to their cameras more easily. Thanks to the dual Arca-Swiss profile and identical mount-ends,this opening can be placed in one of four positions, by inverting or reversing the vertical aspect, which is secured to the base via two adjustable stainless steel rods. A handy mini tool with two sizes of Allen key to adjust the sliding bars, and the vertical aspect, is also supplied with Ellie.

Both ends of the vertical aspect house two 1/4”-20 threads, allowing users to attach accessories, including microphones or mounting arms, to the bracket. The base of the bracket also features a strap attachment slot. Ellie’s base plate is beautifully contoured so that it can also be used separately as a quick release plate without the upright.

Adding a different type of functionality, Ellie’s vertical aspect can also be mounted downwards from the plate, effectively creating a rocker head when used with the tripod head adjusted into the 90 degree position.

Made from aerospace grade magnesium alloy, Ellie will be available in two anodized finishes – Copper(orange) and Metallic Slate Grey. The product is available to pre-order today from 3 Legged Thing’s website, and from local camera stores, with a suggested retail price of £64.99 / $ 69.99. Ellie will be released in mid March 2019. Visitors to The Photography Show 16-19th March at the NEC, Birmingham, UK will be able to see Ellie there on 3 Legged Thing’s stand #E71.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Leica launches limited edition versions of three classic M lenses

09 Feb

Limited edition versions of the Leica APO-Summicron-M 50 mm F2 ASPH, Summaron-M 28 mm F5.6 and Summilux-M 28 mm F1.4 ASPH lenses have been announced for the Leica M rangerfinder series, with alternative finishes, red markings and different materials setting them out from the normal production versions.

Each of the limited editions has its distance or aperture markings picked out in red paint, and each comes in a different paint or finish to the standard models.

The lens with the most unique features is the APO-Summicron-M 50 mm F2 which comes in black chrome, and substitutes the regular focusing ring for a ‘scalloped’ version that the company says echoes the design of the 1956 model. There is a lot of brass too, with the components of the barrel made in brass, as is the lens hood and the lens cap.

The Summaron-M 28 mm F5.6 will come in a black matt paint that’s especially hard wearing, according to Leica, making it as tough as the black chrome finishes. The Summilux-M 28 mm F1.4 will come in a silver anodized finish.

Each of the lenses will be technically identical to the standard production models, just with these cosmetic differences. There will only be 700 of the 50mm lens, 500 of the 28mm F5.6 and 300 of the 28mm F1.4 – and all will be available by the end of the month.
For more information see the Leica website.

Leica APO-Summicron-M 50 mm F2 – $ 9,595

Leica Summaron-M 28 mm F5.6 – $ 2,995

Leica Summilux- M 28 mm F1.4 – $ 6,995

Press release:

Leica Camera AG presents three new design options in the Leica M-Lens portfolio.

Leica Camera AG presents new design versions of the Leica APO-Summicron-M 50 mm F2 ASPH., Leica Summaron-M 28 mm F5.6 and Leica Summilux- M 28 mm F1.4 ASPH. lenses for the Leica M-System. The special series of the three lenses are distinguished by unique design highlights and are being offered in a limited number of examples. The performance and technical specifications of the lenses are otherwise identical to those of the serial production products.

The new series of lenses includes a black chrome version of the APO-Summicron-M 50 mm F2 ASPH. standard lens. In comparison to the serial production lens, this design alternative features a characteristically scalloped focusing ring that recalls the appearance of the Summicron 50 mm F2 (II) from 1956. The components of the barrel of this special series are machined from brass. The engravings for the focal length and the distances in feet are picked out in red. The lens is supplied complete with a classic, round brass lens hood engraved with ‘Made in Germany’ and a lens cap turned from solid brass. The edition of the lens in this design version is strictly limited to 700 examples. The APO-Summicron-M 50 mm F2 ASPH. in black chrome is available from 21 February.

The second special series presents a version of the Leica Summaron-M 28 mm F5.6 in matt black paint finish, a lens from the classic line-up of Leica M-Lenses. The Summaron-M is modelled on a screw mount lens produced at the Leitz factory in Wetzlar from 1955 to 1963. With a length of less than 2 centimetres, this extremely compact wide-angle lens is the smallest lens of the M-System lens portfolio. The special paint used for this special series is particularly resistant to wear and lends the lens an appearance almost identical to that of the classic black chrome finishes.

A further feature of the new lens is the engraving of the aperture scale visible from the front, with numbers now picked out in red. This edition of the Leica Summaron-M 28 mm F5.6 in matt black paint is limited to 500 examples for the global market. The lenses will be on sale from 28 February.

The third design option, the Summilux-M 28 mm F1.4 ASPH. in a silver anodised version, offers owners of Leica M-Cameras in silver a further high-performance lens that matches the finish of their cameras. This fast wide-angle lens is an ideal companion for reportage photography and delivers impressive imaging performance in all lighting situations. The lens with the alternative finish will be on sale from 28 February in a limited edition of 300 examples.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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