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Posts Tagged ‘Test’

Fujifilm GFX 100 added to studio test scene

04 Jun

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Fujifilm’s GFX 100 is equipped with an all-new, 100MP backside-illuminated CMOS sensor with dual-gain architecture. Not only does this sensor offer outstanding resolution, it also promises to exceed the capabilities of today’s best full-frame cameras when it comes to high ISO image quality and Raw dynamic range.

We’ve been shooting with a pre-production GFX 100 with near-final firmware for a while now, and as part of our ongoing review we’ve updated our studio scene database so you can see how it compares. Please note that these images may be replaced when we have access to final firmware and / or a final shipping sample of the GFX 100 in the coming weeks.


Images shot using a pre-production Fujifilm GFX 100 and published with permission. Image quality may not exactly represent exactly the output from final shipping cameras but is likely to be extremely close.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Adobe Price Hike Just a ‘Test’; Should Photographers Be Worried?

13 May

The post Adobe Price Hike Just a ‘Test’; Should Photographers Be Worried? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Adobe made waves earlier this month when it doubled the price of its Creative Cloud Photography plan–from $ 9.99/month to $ 19.99/month.

Soon after, the price reverted back to the original. And Adobe has assured its customers that it was just testing a new price.

But this begs the question:

Should photographers be concerned?

It’s not like we haven’t seen this before. Last year, Adobe announced price increases for a number of its CC products, though the Photography plan was spared. So the Photography plan – which includes Photoshop, Lightroom, and Lightroom Classic – remained an affordable deal for professional photographers.

But if Adobe is testing out a price increase, then it’s no doubt a real possibility for the future.

If that’s the case, would Lightroom and Photoshop be worth it?

The increased price did come with one benefit: Creative Cloud storage, which currently sits at 20GB, shot up to 1TB.
(It’s now back to 20GB.)

But how many photographers have been waiting for additional storage? For many photographers, the increased CC storage is worth little.

Maybe it’s time to start looking into other options.

In the past few years, a number of strong Photoshop and Lightroom contenders have been released–and at significantly lower price points.

For instance, Affinity Photo retails at a one-time payment of $ 49.99. It offers many of the same functions as Photoshop, including basic editing tools, layers, and some more sophisticated options, such as lens distortion corrections.

And ON1 Photo RAW is a neat alternative to Lightroom. For a single payment of $ 79.99, you get a combination of advanced photo editing and photo organization software. Plus, it comes with a set of excellent presets.

Photographers should also check out Luminar 3. This is a full-featured program, offering an excellent combination of basic editing options, local adjustments, and photo organization. All for a one-time price of $ 70.

A couple more options:

  1. ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate (for $ 8.90/month or a one-time fee of $ 84.95)
  2. Exposure X4 (for a one-time fee of $ 119)

Here’s the bottom line:

With Adobe considering a Lightroom/Photoshop price hike, other options (which you can purchase for a one-time fee) have suddenly become far more enticing.

For those of you who aren’t willing to fork out the additional US$ 10 per month, take a look at these other options.

Just in case.

The post Adobe Price Hike Just a ‘Test’; Should Photographers Be Worried? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Field Test: Could the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 be the Most Versatile Wildlife Lens?

06 May

The post Field Test: Could the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 be the Most Versatile Wildlife Lens? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Shreyas Yadav.

Wildlife photography is exciting as well as challenging. Imagine you are photographing a Tiger at a distance and suddenly the Tiger attacks a deer! Alternatively, imagine you are in an African savanna where you are photographing a grazing herd of Elephants at a distance, and right after that, you see a beautiful Eagle on the nearby tree. To photograph these type of objects, you need to have a wide range of zoom lenses. You may have experienced this while on a Jungle Safari. Changing a lens while in the field can be difficult.

Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 lens mounted on a camera, zoomed to 500mm

It looks like Nikon has considered the needs of Wildlife photographers and produced a versatile, fixed-aperture telephoto lens at a quite reasonable price; the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6.

The Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 lens, priced at around US$ 1400, weighs about 2300g (81.02oz). The best part is the lens has a fixed maximum aperture of f/5.6. In addition to a fixed aperture, there are three extra-low dispersion glass elements (ED), powerful vibration reduction (VR) – making this lens optically superb – and it also comes with a tripod collar. The lens is stable when mounted on a tripod, and it comes with HB-71 lens hood. The lens also works great with both full-frame (FX) and crop-sensor (DX) Nikon cameras. The telephoto zoom range and beautiful optics make this lens perfect for birds, nature and wildlife photography.

This field review of the Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 lens, looks at how the lens performs from the perspective of a nature and wildlife photographer. It examines how this lens performs in the wild, as well as looking at the lens controls and ergonomics. This is important, especially if the lens has to be used from dawn to dusk in the wilderness.

This lens is versatile for photographing wildlife, mainly because of it’s:

  • Capability to photograph small and large objects
  • Convenience to capture both nearest and farthest objects, thanks to the zoom range!
  • Excellent compatibility with full-frame (FX) and crop-sensor (D) cameras, which means you can use the same lens on either of your camera bodies
  • Compatibility with the latest Mirrorless cameras (requires an FTZ lens adapter)
  • Travel-friendly size
  • Excellent vibration reduction
  • Convenient grip when you hold the lens collar

Specifications

Focal Length

The focal length of the lens is from 200mm to 500mm. Being FX lens, effective focal length on FX bodies is 200mm to 500mm. On DX Nikon bodies, the effective focal length is approximately 300mm to 750mm.

The lens is capable of photographing small objects such as this Ground orchid (at focal length of 310mm)

Image of large-sized Elephant approaching from a distance of around 300ft (110 yards) at a focal length of 200mm.

Image of large Elephant approached closer at a focal length of 500mm.

Small sized Oriental white-eye bird photographed at a close distance of 8ft at a focal length of 500mm.

Aperture

The maximum aperture is f/5.6, and the minimum aperture is f/32. The Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 is an E-type lens (Electromagnetic diaphragm mechanism). It provides better control on the aperture blade as compared to mechanical linkages. This feature is compatible with newer cameras; however, with older DSLR cameras, an aperture is fixed to f/5.6.

Extra-low dispersion glass elements

The lens has 3 ED glass elements. ED glass element helps in reducing chromatic aberrations and offers overall better image quality.

Minimum focusing distance

This is the minimum distance between the lens and an object at which the lens focuses. The Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 has a minimum focusing distance of 2.2m (7.2ft). For wildlife and bird photography, this is a perfect minimum distance. With a minimum focusing distance of 7.2ft, the lens acquires perfect focus in most cases.

Autofocus

Thanks to Silent Wave Motors (SWM), the lens focuses quietly and with accuracy. The lens indicates this feature as AF-S. While you autofocus, you can instantly override autofocus by manual focus and vice versa (M/A). The lens can be focussed manually (M) as well.

Teleconverter support

The Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 is compatible with TC-14E III (1.4X) series teleconverters when used with DSLR cameras which can autofocus up to f/8. During low-light conditions, autofocus performance of the lens along with TC-14E III is satisfactory and usable. With the TC-17E (1.7X) and TC-20E (2X), aperture goes beyond f/8, hence autofocus is not possible. For this reason, it is not recommended you use the Nikon 200-500 lens with TC-17E and TC-20E teleconverters.

Camera compatibility

Full-frame (FX) cameras, crop-sensor ( DX ) DSLR cameras and Nikon mirrorless cameras (Optional FTZ mount adapter required) are compatible with the lens. This E-type lens (Electronic diaphragm) will work with the following cameras (you can change the lens aperture on these camera bodies): D5,D500, D4,D4S, D3, D3s , Df, D850, D810, D810A, D800, D750, D700, D610, D600, D300, D7500, D7200, D7100, D7000, D5600, D5500, D5300, D5200, D5100, D5000, D3400, D3300, D3200, D3100.

On older versions of cameras, such as Nikon D200, you cannot change the aperture. The aperture will be fixed to f/5.6.

Filters (Optional)

The Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 accepts 95mm screw-on filters. When carrying this lens into the wilderness, I recommend you have a filter. It protects the front glass element from dust, mild drizzle and minor scratches. I use the filter while photographing and do not see any significant loss in image quality. However, make sure you use a high-quality lens filter to ensure minimal loss in quality.

Vibration reduction

This lens has excellent vibration reduction performance. I have achieved sharp images at 1/30th during low light conditions. Nikon claims to have the benefit of 4½ stops. I always keep the VR “ON.”

There are two VR Modes – Normal and Sports. Normal mode works fine for me while hand-holding the lens on the ground, and also in the safari vehicle. I tend to keep it set to Normal mode.

Image of Warbler bird with Vibration Reduction OFF. Feathers are not clearly visible Exif: 500mm f/5.6 1/400s ISO 2000, VR OFF

Image as it is from a camera with Vibration Reduction ON. Feathers are sharp. The lens is a handheld. Exif: 500mm f/5.6 1/400th ISO 2000, VR ON

Weight

Weighing in at approximately 2300g (81.2 oz), the lens initially feels somewhat heavy. However, as you start hand-holding this lens regularly, you get used to the weight. I am now able to handhold this lens for two to three hours without any issue.

Lens Hood (included)

The HB-71 Lens hood is a plastic hood. It is a decent hood but slightly big to fit in the bag. However, I do use a hood on the lens mainly to protect the front glass element of the lens from minor bumps, tree twigs, and rain.

Lens Size

The lens Diameter is 4.2inches (108 mm), and the length is 10.5 inches (267.5 mm) at 200 mm zoom. The lens fits perfectly in mid-sized camera bags such as Lowepro Flipside 400 with the body attached. You can invert and fit the lens hood as well.

Controls and ergonomics

Controls

Lens controls

The Nikon 200-500mm f/4.5 has five controls:

M/A – M

M/A means while autofocusing you can override it with manual focus if required.

M is a full-manual focus.

Full/Infinity – 6m

Full allows the lens to focus on the entire focusing range. I use Full all the time and have never missed the focus.

Infinity – 6m option limits the focusing range of the lens. The lens will focus from 6m to infinity. Any object which is closer than 6m won’t be in focus. I recommend using the Full option.

VR ON – OFF

Vibration reduction(VR) ON-OFF. Set this to ON. I set it to ON even when mounted on a tripod.

NORMAL-SPORTS

Set the VR type to NORMAL. For wildlife and birds, NORMAL mode works great. NORMAL mode works great while I am hand holding the lens and even in the safari jeep.

LOCK 200

The Lock 200 button locks the lens to 200mm. You cannot zoom the lens if it is locked. The lock switch is perfect for when you are traveling, and your lens is packed. It avoids unintended zooming during travel.

Ergonomics

The lens is a bit heavy, but as you continue to use it, you will be able to easily handhold it. I found when hand holding the lens, removing the lens collar or rotating it upwards made it easier to hand hold. However, hiking with this lens can be hard due to its weight, especially carrying it up the mountains.

The zoom ring is smooth with an excellent rubber grip. The zooming feels smooth and is precise. However, the manual focus ring feels slightly loose. But, I do find the quality of manual focus to be excellent.

The Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 fits in a mid-sized camera bag. However, to accommodate the lens and camera, a larger bag is required. The only awkward part is the lens hood. Either you can invert the lens hood and keep in the bag or use a slightly bigger bag. I use this lens with Lowepro Flipside 300 (only lens), and the Lowepro Flipside 400 when the camera is attached.

Weather sealing

The weather sealing of this lens is quite decent, and I have used this lens in a moderately dusty forest and some drizzle. The lens offered good weather sealing. Make sure you clean the lens after using in dust and drizzle. I clean the front element, outer lens barrel, and mount. I use a Nikon Lenspen Pro kit for cleaning which is easy to use and travel-friendly.

The overall construction of the lens is good. It can handle minor bumps. However, some parts are made up of plastic, making the lens construction not as rock-solid as pro-grade lenses.

 

Qualities of the lens from the perspective of nature and wildlife photographer

Focusing speed

Wildlife actions happen in a few seconds. Focusing speed is most critical for wildlife photography. The speed of focus with Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 is good. When the light conditions are good – such as morning and early evening – this lens focuses fast and accurately. I use back button autofocus. I have used this lens in forest, safari, grasslands, and drizzle. Here is how this lens exactly performs in the field –

The lens focuses superbly in the following light conditions and scenarios:

  • Bright light such as morning and evening light
  • Drizzle and normal dusty environment
  • Birds in flight (moving at a pace of slow to medium and not fast)
  • Animals and birds behind a tree or grass (behind clutter)
  • Animals in action (moving at a pace of slow, medium and fast)
  • Smaller birds and wildlife such as sunbirds, frogs, and grasshoppers (when they are slow moving or stationary)

Hawk cuckoo bird in the rain. Low light image and photographed from a safari vehicle.

Flight of fast-diving paradise flycatcher. Lens focussed on this fast-moving bird in good light conditions.

This bird was behind the grass. There was significant clutter in front of it and the lens focussed accurately on the bird.

Focus performance of the lens is average in following light conditions and scenarios:

  • Early morning or late evening light – this is the time when action happens for leopards, tigers, owls and nocturnal creatures. You may need an external light such as flashlights or headlights (not camera flash)
  • When the weather is rainy or dusty the lens focus performance is satisfactory
  • If the wildlife action is very fast, such as a Kingfisher bird diving for fish or a swallow bird flying over water
  • If wildlife is very small in sizes such as sunbird, crab or bees and moving

Average focus performance when photographing small objects such as a flying kingfisher at a distance.

A Peacock photographed when it was raining. The lens managed to autofocus decently during low light and rainy conditions.

Focus performance of the lens is poor in following light conditions and scenarios:

  • When the light conditions are poor such as night and heavy rain.
  • When birds in flight are at a very long distance against the plain and cluttered background – Lens struggles to focus in this case. This type of focus hunt I have experienced while photographing birds in flight against blue sky at longer distances.

Crested Hawk Eagle chasing Heron. The birds were at a longer distance and photographed during very low light conditions. Lens focus performance is a bit on the poor side.

The River Tern was flying at a long distance against a plain blue background. In this type of scenario, the lens struggles to focus on the main object.

Low light performance

This is a tricky one! As it depends also on how your camera performs in low light and how you photograph. Many of the latest cameras by Nikon are good enough to shoot in low light. Hence there are only two things which have an impact on the final image: lens low light performance and your shooting style.

All-in-all, lens performance is somewhere between good to average in low light. But if you follow the below techniques, you will be stunned with your images. It is so good! I have followed these techniques and achieved awesome images in low light :

  • Use a bean bag or tripod
  • Use aperture f/5.6
  • Since there is no external light source (such as flash) use shutter speeds from 1/30th to 1/60th of a second
  • If the lens is struggling to autofocus quickly, focus manually
  • Shoot in raw so that you can recover and process images effectively
  • Shoot at a reasonably high ISO (depends on your camera) but generally ISO 2000 to 4000 can provide a great balance between image quality and noise.

Here is an image I shot in almost darkness during a late winter evening. I used a bean bag, the aperture was set to f/5.6 and shutter speed 1/30s. The ISO was around 2500.

A Leopard during a late winter evening. Focus performance was decent during low light. Exif: 480mm f/5.6 1/30th ISO 2500

This type of performance I was able to repeat multiple times.

In short, in very low light scenarios the lens performance is average. But if you master it using the above-mentioned techniques, you can achieve stunning images.

A range of focal lengths

The Nikon 200-500mm captured the market aggressively in a short time. Its focal length is one of the prime reasons. This range is optimum for wildlife photography and is also a great focal length range on both full-frame and crop-sensor cameras. 500mm is a great range for birds, while the 200 to 400 focal length is great for large and smaller size wildlife.

If you are using a full-frame camera, you will get a focal length of 200mm to 500mm. If you are DX shooter, the effective focal length you will be getting is around 300mm to 750mm. 750mm is superb for bird photography. 300mm is great for animals and other wildlife. I use Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 on crop-sensor ( DX format ) body. When I am on a safari with the effective focal length of 300mm to 750mm, I can easily photograph eagles, woodpeckers, small forest birds, tigers, elephants, and snakes.

A Rat snake appeared in the bushes which were very close to me. I zoomed out the lens to capture this beautiful snake. Focal length: 200mm.

Flamingos are very sensitive to a boat. Hence, I have to keep a good amount of distance from them. I captured this image from a long distance while I was in a boat. The long zoom range helped to photograph this distant yet beautiful scene. Focal length: 480mm

 

The one caveat is you can’t capture wildlife when they approach close to your safari gypsy or boat. I needed to switch to the smaller telephoto lens such as Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 in this scenario.

Tigress in the dusty grassland. Lens managed to focus in a dusty environment. This image is captured with Nikon 200-500 f/5.6

As the Tigress approached very close, I switched to the 80-200 f/2.8 lens, as it was a close encounter.

Best aperture, image sharpness, and colors

When the lens is wide open, the aperture is f/5.6 from 200mm to 500mm. At 200mm, the f/5.6 aperture is a bit slow, but at 500mm f/5.6 is excellent. This is where you are going to use it the most.

I use the lens wide open 70% of the time. I use the lens wide open for slow-moving birds and wildlife. If the objects are relatively close, I get sharp images using f/5.6.

In some of the instances, such as birds in flight, fast-moving wildlife, and wildlife at distance, I stop down the lens to f/7.1 or f/8. This is mainly to extend the depth of field.

Shoveler in flight photographed at f/8 – sharp flight.

Shoveler bird captured at f/5.6, sharpness at this aperture is great

If the objects are at a shorter distance and not moving very fast, aperture f/5.6 produces nice colors and sharpness. If the objects are moving fast, use f/8 to achieve sharp images. While you adjust your aperture for image sharpness also ensure you have enough shutter speed to freeze the action.

Here are the techniques to get sharp images with this lens every time. I have used these techniques in the wild and repeatedly produced a sharp image:

  • Set lens aperture to f/5.6 or f/8 depending on the subject
  • Set the shutter speed to at least 2x times the focal length (for example, if you are at 500mm, use a shutter speed at least as a 1/1000s )
  • In case you are not able to use a high shutter speed because of low light, either use Vibration Reduction along with stable support such as a tripod or bean bag (shutter speeds can be as low as 1/30th)
  • Use continuous autofocus with focus areas as a d9 (AF-C + d9) or Single autofocus with focus area as S (center point) ( AF-S )
  • In case required to increase the ISO values. ISO values ranging from ISO 2000 to ISO 4000 (This depends on how well your camera can handle the noise). But for most of the latest Nikon cameras, this is a sweet spot

These are the main aperture values useful in wildlife and nature photography. I have found f/5.6 to f/11 the most versatile. But don’t limit yourself to these numbers. Try different aperture values based on the creative signature you want to make with your image.

Manual focus override

Manual focus override (M/A button) is useful when the lens struggles to autofocus. Usually, this happens if there is clutter in front of the main object. Examples are grass or leaves in front of birds and animals. In this case, use the manual focus ring to focus. The manual focus ring feels a bit loose, but the quality and precision of manual focus are good.

Manual focus override is also useful in low light conditions. In fact, I highly recommend when there is low light or if wildlife is in clutter, use manual focus override. You will end up getting perfectly focussed images every time.

Place Image 26: Image of a jackal. Initially, I tried using autofocus. Since there was much clutter in front of Jackal, I used the manual focus override. The transition was smooth, and the precision of the manual focus worked well.

Vibration reduction

The Vibration Reduction on the Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 is great. I achieved great results when handholding this lens at a shutter speed of 1/30th in low light. When you are in a safari or hiking, this type of great VR is good to have so you can make sharp images while hand holding the lens.

Place Image 27: Barking deer photographed at 1/30 s shutter speed from the safari vehicle. (Exif: at 360 mm, f/5.6, 1/30s, ISO 1600 )

Recommendations

Pros:

  • Maximum aperture of f/5.6 for entire zoom range
  • Excellent Vibration reduction performance
  • Focal length is perfect for wildlife and nature photography
  • Good focusing speed and image quality
  • Most affordable price for a super telephoto lens

Cons:

  • Hood size is big to fit in the small bag
  • Some people may find this lens a bit heavy
  • Bigger filter (95mm) – it adds some price. If you don’t want to use a filter, then you can skip it.

Conclusion

The Nikon 200-500 f/5.6E VR is a beautiful all-around lens. It is perfect for animals and birds. If you are looking for the most versatile lens for wildlife and nature, the Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 E VR is for you! Especially with the price of $ 1400, no other lens comes close.

It is compatible with all current Nikon DSLR and mirrorless cameras. Nikon 200-500 f/5.6E VR is your best friend in the wilderness. You will purely enjoy photographing the wildlife with Nikon 200-500 f/5.6E VR. Good luck!

Which telephoto lens do you use? What do you think about Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 lens? Please do let us know in the comments below.

 

The post Field Test: Could the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 be the Most Versatile Wildlife Lens? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Shreyas Yadav.


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Adobe test replaces $10/month Photography plan with 1TB $20/month option

03 May

Under a current test, some potential Adobe customers are no longer presented with the company’s $ 9.99 per month individual Photography plan, which includes access to Lightroom, Lightroom Classic, Photoshop, and 20GB of cloud storage. These customers now only have the option to subscribe to the more expensive $ 19.99 per month Photography plan, which includes 1TB, rather than 20GB, of cloud storage.

A screenshot captured on the Adobe Creative Cloud website on May 2, 2019.

The change has only appeared for some customers, and as noted by PetaPixel, it’s possible to subscribe to the cheaper plan by directly contacting Adobe’s customer support. At this time, Adobe has only offered confirmation that it is conducting ‘a number of tests’ on its website, which may include displaying certain plan options to only some customers.

Though Adobe is remaining somewhat quiet about the change, the test hints at a potential future price hike for the Photography plan — namely the elimination of the cheaper, lower-storage option. Customers who want to lock in the lower rate (for now, at least) retain the option of purchasing a one-year Photography plan subscription for $ 120, though they may have to contact support to get that rate.

As with any test, it’s possible Adobe will scrap the change and keep its existing $ 9.99 per month option, but based on simple math, if even a little over half of customers don’t leave because of the change it’s still worth it for Adobe to bump up the price to $ 20 per month.

DPReview has contacted Adobe for an official comment. We will update this article when we hear back.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Thoughts and Field Test: DJI Osmo Pocket

05 Apr

The post Thoughts and Field Test: DJI Osmo Pocket appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

In December 2018, DJI released a revolutionary product: the Osmo Pocket.

DJI basically took the same camera sensor found in their popular Mavic Pro and Mavic Air drones and put it in the Osmo Pocket. The result is a tiny, pocket-sized camera that can capture high-quality 4K video and 12-megapixel still photos. Given the presence of the 3-axis gimbal, this camera is widely marketed as an ideal compact video camera. But how is it for still photography? Read on to learn more!

DJI Osmo Pocket

Video features

Standing at just about 4.8 inches (12.19 cm) tall and weighing 4 oz (113.4 g), the Osmo Pocket looks more like a toy than a camera. This makes it ultra stealthy. Despite its size, this camera comes packed with pro features. The tiny camera sits on a full 3-axis gimbal to give you stable video. You can shoot at up to 4K 60fps, remarkable for its 1/2.3-inch sensor. There are dual built-in microphones with noise canceling to capture high-quality audio.

The Osmo Pocket has many more video features including ActiveTrack to follow subjects, FaceTrack to automatically recognize faces, Slow Motion shooting, Timelapse and Motionlapse.

Photography features

Based on features alone, this is clearly a camera for those interested in shooting video. But there are notable features for still photography as well. The camera has a fixed lens of about 26mm (35mm format equivalent) and a fast f/2.0 aperture.

It also has panorama photo mode, which is brilliant on a camera with a built-in gimbal. When shooting a panorama, the camera automatically pans and shoots 4 images in sequence. This is much more accurate than precariously handholding your camera while panning or having to lug a tripod around. The only downside is that the camera won’t stitch the pan together automatically unless you shoot with a cell phone attached (more on this below).

DJI Osmo Pocket

Osmo Pocket LCD screen

A camera this tiny has its challenges, especially when it comes to seeing what you’re shooting. The built-in LCD screen is tiny and can be quite hard to see if you don’t have the best eyesight. I found it a challenge to not only compose my images but also to see if my shots were in focus. Luckily, DJI has a solution.

There’s a port next to the LCD to connect a smartphone via USB-C (or Lightning connector for iPhones). When using the free DJI Mimo app, a connected smartphone becomes an extension of the LCD screen.

This makes shooting with the Osmo Pocket an entirely different experience. It is much easier to compose your images and even unlock more photo and video features, such as stitching panoramas together automatically.

However, this makes the camera rig significantly bigger. It’s also much harder to shoot one-handed with a cell phone precariously attached to the Osmo Pocket via a USB-C connection.

Shooting with the Osmo Pocket

Using a camera this small is fun, but challenging. Its design is very different than cell phones or traditional cameras, so that can take some getting used to. When using the Osmo Pocket by itself, it is a one-handed device. There are just two buttons and a tiny touchscreen LCD that you swipe up and down to control the gimbal, and left and right to activate various features. Attaching the phone turns the Osmo Pocket into a two-handed camera, which can feel more ergonomic and natural.

When shooting with the smartphone, my instincts were to use the device as I would a smartphone camera. Instead, I had to use the DJI Mimo app, which has a very different interface than most smartphone apps. It also doesn’t let you zoom, and you instead have to physically move forward to zoom in.

Also, it was difficult to remember where my camera was. I usually shoot with my smartphone cameras on the left, and in this case, the Osmo Pocket camera is on the right since it is plugged into the phone’s USB-C port. This made composing images a challenge as I struggled to remember my main camera location.

DJI Osmo Pocket

Osmo Pocket photo quality

If you’ve shot photo or video with DJI drones, the photo quality that comes out of the Osmo Pocket is very similar. Colors are pretty natural, and the images are sharp (almost too sharp, depending on your taste). While the fixed lens is definitely not a macro, you can get reasonably close to your subject and capture photos with pretty good bokeh. Osmo Pocket is slow to focus (tap on the LCD to focus), which can be frustrating if you’re trying to shoot action.

Who’s this camera for?

Osmo Pocket isn’t aimed at a professional crowd, although it certainly could be used by a pro to capture B roll (supplemental footage). However, the size of this camera plus some of its limitations suggests that this is for casual camera users.

If you’re wanting to dabble in videography without investing in large and expensive camera stabilizers, the Osmo Pocket is a great option to consider. Keep in mind that it isn’t waterproof and definitely not a tough action camera like the GoPro; in fact, this camera is somewhat fragile given the loose nature of the gimbal.

DJI is slowly releasing accessories to add on to the Osmo Pocket such as 3.5mm external microphone adapter, mount, extension rod, and WiFi module. There are also polarizers and ND filters that you can get to mount to the front of the camera. These little accessories add to the cost of the already pricey camera and also point out some of the seemingly basic features that are missing from this camera.

Bottom line

If you want an ultra compact and stealthy camera for capturing smooth, high-quality video footage, the Osmo Pocket is a great option to consider. However, in most cases, this isn’t a do-all camera and is instead a supplemental device for capturing very specific footage.

Sample Photos

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

DJI Osmo Pocket

Video

The post Thoughts and Field Test: DJI Osmo Pocket appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


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Fujifilm X-T30, Sony a6400 added to studio test scene

29 Mar

Fujifilm’s X-T30 and Sony’s a6400 are both highly capable midrange cameras, with APS-C sensors, similar resolution, excellent autofocus systems and similar pricing. So how do they stack up in our standard studio test scene? Take a look for yourself while we continue working through our full reviews.

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Watch this cannon shoot (and destroy) a Canon at 264mph in a tornado projectile test

12 Mar

A compact camera reached speeds of 264 miles per hour during a test to demonstrate the dangers presented by normal domestic objects flying around during tornado. And no, it didn’t survive.

The test was carried out by storm-footage stock library owner Martin Lisius with the help of a pneumatic cannon housed at the National Wind Institute’s Debris Impact Facility in Texas Tech University. The unit usually studies what happens when large lumps of wood caught in storm winds strike building materials, but for this test Lisius wanted to show what happens when smaller more common objects get picked up and thrown around.

A Canon Sureshot 60 Zoom, known as the Autoboy Juno in Japan, was loaded into the cannon and when fired reached speeds of 264mph before meeting a messy end against a concrete wall. According to Lisius, the shape and relative density of the film camera helped it travel much faster than the researchers expected.

The twenty four year-old camera, which could only manage 1fps in its highest drive setting, was filmed at 240fps as it met the wall. Even with that frame rate though it is hard to see exactly what happened on impact. I’m certain the research was useful for something, but even if it wasn’t it makes interesting viewing. To see other videos of things hitting other things at high speed see the National Wind Institute’s Debris Impact web pages.

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Canon EOS RP added to studio test scene comparison, sample gallery updated

07 Mar

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The Canon EOS RP is an impressively small camera considering the large full-frame sensor inside. That sensor gives you 26MP of resolution, and is closely related to the unit in Canon’s existing EOS 6D II DSLR. We’ve had it out and about for some sunshine and soul music in Seattle, and have also put it in front of our test scene to see what it can do. Take a peek through our updated sample gallery and around our studio scene to see how Canon’s new baby full framer fares.

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Video: A look at the gear and tech used for crash test photography

01 Feb

The nonprofit U.S. organization Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) published a video that gives viewers a brief look behind-the-scenes at its vehicle crash test photography. During the five minute video, which was published in 2015, IIHS VP of Media Operations and Production Pini Kalnite walks viewers through how the organization produces its high-quality crash footage and images, including everything from its custom-built lighting array to its high-speed cameras.

Kalnite explains the IIHS’ Vehicle Research Center (VRC) is ‘more than a scientific laboratory,’ also doubling as ‘a specialized production facility where we produce footage and pictures’ for engineers. The nonprofit created its VRC with the intention of producing high-quality content.

The VRC is similar to a Hollywood sound stage, according to Kalnite, who explains that the facility includes a grid ceiling capable of holding a custom-built light system that outputs 750k watts of diffused light. The organization uses high-speed digital cameras with cinema-quality lenses to capture ultra-slow-motion videos and still images.

In addition to the high-speed video cameras, IIHS also uses high-resolution cameras to capture images of the crashed vehicles, as well as digital cameras that record footage at regular speeds. Though Kalnite doesn’t detail any of the models used in the production, the video briefly reveals a Hasselblad camera as the source of the VRC’s crash action shot and post-crash photos.

‘The images we produce are more than just tools to help engineers understand what happens in a crash test,’ Kalnite explained. ‘They’re also a vital part of our communications effort.’ The organization’s content has appeared in major movies, news broadcasts, and advertisements.

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Nikon Z7 and Sony a7R III offer similar results in our image stabilization test

10 Jan

Battle of the high-res mirrorless IS systems

Both the Nikon Z7 and Sony a7R III feature 5-axis in-body image stabilization. When tested against one another at 24mm, 55mm and 200mm both cameras’ IS systems proved similarly useful. Users can expect around 2 to 3-stops IS advantage when shooting with wide angle lenses, 3 to 4-stops when using normal lenses and 4 to 5-stops when shooting with telephotos (helped by both cameras making use of in-lens IS at 200mm).

Nikon Z7 vs a7R III IS test results:

24mm 55mm 200mm
Nikon Z7 2.3-stops 4-stops 4-stops
Sony a7 R III 2.6-stops 3.3-stops 4.6-stops

These results correlate pretty similarly to our Sony a7 III IS test. That camera is rated as being 0.5EV less well corrected than the a7R III, so it’s not surprising to see that it performed about 1 stop behind its high-res counterpart at 200mm.

How we test and why

Our standard image stabilization test is performed by shooting 10 frames of our test target, starting with a shutter speed of 1/focal length and working our way downward in intervals of 2/3-stops using a neutral density filter (to maintain the same aperture). The test is done at 24mm, 55mm and 200mm, since the challenges of stabilization change with focal length and exposure duration.

We first do this with IS on, and then with IS off. The images for both are then assessed to the following standard:

Excellent Some softness
Noticeable blur Unusable

1) Excellent – the best the camera is capable of
2) Some softness – only distinguishable from Excellent by comparison
3) Noticeable blur – blur can be perceived without reference to another image
4) Unusable – significant motion perceptible

After each frame is assessed, we plot the results in the graphs you see below. We then compare the lowest shutter speed at which the camera was able to maintain a 50% or greater hit rate with IS on and off at a given focal length (images that are acceptably sharp are those rated ‘Excellent’ or ‘Some softness’). This allows us to determine how effective the IS system is in real world shooting.

Our results compared to CIPA

CIPA offers a good baseline to compare cameras, but CIPA tests tend to use focal lengths around 50mm (which are relatively easy to stabilize) and do not include any rolling motion, which can give very high numbers. For instance, the Sony a7R III’s in-body stabilization is quoted as offering a ‘5.5-stop shutter speed advantage,’ according to CIPA testing (the Nikon was rated at 5-stops). That suggests you can get usable shots, consistently, at 0.8 secs (5.3-stops below one over focal length), which we could not reproduce: at 1/2 sec (4.6-stops below) we were only about to get one usable shot in ten with IS on.

Nikon results

24mm Equivalent
55mm Equivalent
200mm Equivalent
Stabilization On Stabilization On Stabilization On
Stabilization Off Stabilization Off Stabilization Off

For 24mm and 55mm we tested the Z7 using the Z 24-70mm F4. At 200mm we used used an adapted Nikon 70-200m F2.8E FL ED VR.

At 24mm with IS on, the Z7 maintains a 60% acceptable hit rate at 1/5 sec and a 40% at 1/3 sec, which indicates 1/4 sec would likely be where it’d hit the 50% acceptable threshold. With IS off, the acceptable rate is 60% at 1/20 sec and plummets to 10% thereafter. The results indicate about a 2.3-stop IS advantage at 24mm.

With IS on, the 50% acceptable hit rate at 55mm should be 1/4 sec – the Z7 maintains an 80% acceptable rate at 1/5 sec and a 40% at 1/3 sec. With IS off, we weren’t able to hit the 50% acceptable threshold at 1 over the focal length (40%), but it’s safe to assume at a third a stop faster (1/60 sec), 50% should be manageable. 1/60 sec off vs 1/4 sec results in a 4-stop IS advantage at 55mm.

At 200mm, the Z7 maintained a 50% or greater hit rate down to 1/8 sec, our lowest speed on the graph. We pushed it an additional 2/3rds stop slower in testing (down to 1/5 sec) and found it dropped to a 30% hit rate. With IS off we were able to get 50% or greater usable down to 1/125 sec. The result is a 4-stop IS advantage at 200mm. This is helped by the use of a VR lens: Nikon says the pitch and yaw corrections are handled by the lens, where possible.

Sony results

24mm Equivalent
55mm Equivalent
200mm Equivalent
Stabilization On Stabilization On Stabilization On
Stabilization Off Stabilization Off Stabilization Off

At 24mm we tested using the Sony 24-70 F4 OSS, at 55mm we used the Sony 55mm F1.8 and at 200mm we used the Sony 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS.

At 24mm with IS on, the a7R III maintains a 60% hit rate down to 1/5 sec and 40% hit rate at 1/3 sec, meaning 1/4 sec is where it’s likely to hit the 50% threshold. With IS off this threshold is reached around 1/25 sec. This gives the a7R III about a 2.6-stop advantage at 24mm. Note that this result includes the use of a lens with its own stabilization (though sensor shift is usually better-suited to the corrections needed for wide-angle lenses).

At 55mm we opted to de-couple the Sony’s sensor IS from lens IS by using a non-stabilized lens (the same we tested on the a7 III). With stabilization on, the hit rate was 60% at 1/8 sec and 40% at 1/4 sec meaning 1/6 sec is the likely 50% point. We weren’t able to get a 50% hit rate with IS off at one over the focal length, but it’s safe to assume we would have by 1/60 sec (and surely by 1/80 sec). This gives us at least a 3.3-stop advantage at 55mm using sensor IS alone.

Like the Z7, we tested the a7R III at 200mm with IS on down to 1/5 sec. Good thing we did: it’s not until this speed that a7R III’s IS system also drops below the 50% acceptable threshold with 2 images rated ‘some softness.’ This means you can expect a 50% or greater hit rate down to 1/8 sec with IS on vs 1/200 sec with IS off, providing a 4.6-stops advantage at 200mm. Like the Nikon, this is helped by the use of a lens with IS, which is able to provide the large movements needed to correct long focal lengths.

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