Just posted: Sony Cyber-shot DSCRX1R hands-on preview. We’ve had a few days to try out Sony’s new Cyber-shot DSC-RX1R, the sister camera to the RX1. The only difference between these two full-frame enthusiast cameras is that the RX1R’s 24MP sensor lacks an anti-aliasing filter. We’ve created a hands-on preview of the RX1R, including a gallery of real-world samples and some preliminary studio tests, to give you an idea of how the new camera performs. Click through for our preview.
Just Posted: Canon EOS Rebel SL1/100D studio samples and good light samples. We’ve just got a production version of Canon’s miniaturized DSLR and, as part of the process of reviewing it, have shot our standard studio scene. We’ve also taken it out to see how it performs away from the studio lighting and have put together a series of daylight samples. Click through to see how it fares.
Even as a new photographer you’ll no doubt be aware of the not-so-secret ingredient to creating stunning photographs – lighting. But there are so many things to consider so where do you start? This article will hopefully ‘shed some light’ on some basic but important techniques to improve your shots.
Choose the best light source
Remember that your lighting setup should depend on the purpose of your shoot, the time of day (if you want natural light), and what you’re capturing. Your first task therefore is to choose the right type for the job. So without further ado here’s a breakdown of the main lighting sources and what they’re best for:
Continuous light sources, as the name implies, stay lit continuously much like a lightbulb or tube. They’re a great option for beginners on a budget as they’re generally much cheaper than flash lights. A big benefit is that they immediately show you where shadows will appear in the studio. Be wary that such lighting tends to release a lot of heat – not ideal for photographing human subjects for long periods.
Flash lighting tends to be a lot more powerful than continuous equipment and is great for capturing quick-moving subjects – for instance when you’re shooting a family session in your studio with energetic children running about.
Natural light isn’t for everyone. It can boost portraiture shots with a realistic, natural quality when there’s plenty of it (and vastly reduces the strength of catch light in the eyes). However, if there isn’t enough, it can have an adverse effect on your subjects – giving them a dull, dark look. If your studio allows for a good amount of natural light though, I do recommend you at least give it a try.
Portrait photography ideas
An excellent way of brightening up your portraits without using harsh lighting is by utilising a reflector. Simply sit your subject near a window and place a reflector up to a metre from their face – the natural light bounces off, illuminating the portrait and filling up unwanted shadows. Don’t want to spend lots on a reflector? Make your own! Simply use a sheet of card covered in tin foil. You’ll be surprised how effective it is.
Also, try experimenting with the angles of the light source in relation to your subject. Small angle adjustments can make big differences to the look of your photos. As a general guide, lighting from a person’s side produces more of a shadow-heavy yet dramatic style, whilst placing the light behind creates a silhouette. To emphasise your subject even more, or to highlight a particular aspect (such as their hair), try experimenting with a second flash light. We do of course recommend you master a one-flash set up first before taking on two.
Photographing children
As we suggested before, using continuous light sources near people can sometimes cause discomfort due to the high amount of heat they emit, and is even more of a concern for young children. If there’s sufficient natural light available, it’s best to use that. Otherwise, opt for a softbox attachment. For movement-heavy shoots, go for flash.
For older children I suggest utilising both flash and continuous. Softboxes help brighten children’s already cute faces and you may want to try large umbrellas to really enhance the catch lights.
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Lisa Gill is a professional photographer who also teaches a range of courses from her studio in Buckinghamshire, UK.
http://www.lisagillphotography.co.uk
We’ve just added three studio comparison pages to our previously-published preview of the Pentax MX-1. The MX-1 is Pentax’s flagship compact camera, and something of a departure for the manufacturer, offering a fast F1.8-2.5 zoom lens, full manual control and a high-class, metal body, to compete with more established peers like Panasonic’s LX7. Click through to go to the new pages in our preview, and see for yourself how the MX-1 compares to its rivals.
[ By WebUrbanist in Design & Fixtures & Interiors. ]
In an Paris apartment with just over 200 square feet, it is almost impossible to imagine anything but the more bare essentials resulting a boring space. But that is where illumination enters the equation, flooding in to add depth and complexity to this abode. This, then, is a short story of light.
The architects, Betillon | Dorval?Bory, examined the limited space available architecturally, but also scientifically, testing the type and quality of the natural light to be found (and then suggesting what should be carefully introduced) across the existing interior zones.
A single wall was introduced, dividing the main bedroom area from daytime activity spaces like the kitchen, but not just (nor even primarily) as a visual barrier – it was intentionally and most-importantly designed to be a backdrop for two types of light.
On the ‘night’ side: a diffused orange streetlamp glow of the after-hours city that we associate with evening, which washes the walls in a more monochromatic direction (suited for sleeping and showering). On the ‘day’ side, a pure all-purpose white of the kind found in active spaces like offices – one which allows us to see things in black and color as well (suited for cooking and gathering).
Notably, the ‘night’ side lights can also be turned off (or overpowered by daylight), allowing the entire place to ‘open’ into a single space. If there is a lesson to be learned here, it is that physical objects are not the only things that form (or inform) the nature of space. Spatial variety can come via intangible elements like illumination, which in turn can serve equally powerful functions in fleshing out a space – particularly a small place with little room for solid decor.
[ By WebUrbanist in Design & Fixtures & Interiors. ]
As one gets started in studio lighting I think it is pretty common to get over ensconced in the lighting scenarios. It is funny because everything you read tells you to start with one light until you really start getting a feel for how to shape, angle and manipulate it with purpose. Most of us end up getting lost in multiple light set-ups struggling to find proper lighting solutions. I was not any different.
Soon after I got started, I found myself using 4-5 lights in every setup and then getting frustrated with the nuclear explosion of light that was going off with each shutter click. It makes me laugh now, because at the time I was solely focused on getting light on the subject, background and in most cases everything else in the room that was touched by the mushroom cloud of illumination. I did not understand the importance of shadow, shape, depth and form.
Maturing with studio lighting takes time and patience, and always remember that each light should have a specific purpose. Understanding how to build the lighting with intent in mind takes plenty of practice and a fair number of mistakes and experimentation. Just remember to keep an open mind and never stop learning from both your successful and failed attempts. So, let’s get down to business and walk through a more challenging lighting set-up being mindful of the reasons and rational for each lights use.
Concept
In pre-planning for any shoot it is always good to have some structure and direction to the idea or concept. Some focus, no matter how vague, will always be helpful. Understand what sort of mood, feel or emotion you hope to portray and have some insight into what you want presented in your final image. In the shoot presented in this article, the overall theme was a creative portrait based on the beauty of ice, winter and cold.
This already set most of my color palette to blues, whites, silvers and other cooler tones. I also wanted to give a feeling like the model was being seen through a pane or block of ice and knew I wanted some crystal like texture incorporated. Simply put, I needed a lighting set-up that would maximize the crystalline texture, but that would also provide a flattering light for the model. Sounds simple right?
Lighting Plan
Let’s think through this lighting for a moment. In order to light for texture, one needs to light from the side so that the light skims the texture and creates shadows that give some shape, depth and form to the surface. Great! We can side light our crystalline forms. Oh but wait, if we side light the model we are likely going to see every blemish, hair or imperfection on the skin and either are going to resort to a lengthy saddle-sore ridden editing session, or have a very unflattering photo of our model.
How can I get a nice beautiful light on my model? I know, butterfly or clam shell lighting provides a very flattering look and has a way of smoothing out the complexion. Awesome! But wait, if I front light the texture, I will lose the depth and form of the crystals. Quite a conundrum, huh? Well, at least it provides a framework to help me set-up my lighting. I want some sort of combination of side lighting and butterfly lighting that will accomplish both of my needs. Lets break it down in a diagram.
Set-up
All make-up and styling was performed by the amazingly creative Dina Bree. The model, Leslie, was shot against a blue seamless background through a piece of plexiglass that had been treated to create a crystalline or frozen texture. White and silver confetti was released over the model during shooting to gain an effect as if snow was falling lightly.
I had two strip boxes, one on either side of the plexiglass skimming the surface and providing some side lighting to the model. The key light was a diffused beauty dish that was placed directly above the plexiglass and angled down at the model and positioned so that it would not spill light on the textured surface. My fill light was a 7” reflector with blue gel bounced off of the floor beneath the plexiglass up at the model again trying to avoid spill on the plexiglass. I knew I wanted both the textured surface and the model in sharp focus so I chose a very small aperture at f/16 to gain a large depth of field.
Thus, I had found a pleasant combination of side lighting and butterfly lighting to accomplish my goals within the original framework I had outlined.
When I conceived the idea for this shoot, I have to admit I was not sure if I could pull it off effectively. I knew the lighting would be tricky and that it could take some subtle changes or modifications as I progressed through the shoot. I also knew that it could be a complete disaster with an ultimate failed result. Either way it was going to be a great learning opportunity. Lighting with intent and purpose is critical as you move into multiple light set-ups. Planning and understanding the need for each light serves to unravel a lot of the complexity encountered in studio lighting scenarios.
Also, don’t be afraid to experiment within the set-up. This final shot was a fantastic accident as I decided to turn the key light off for some production shots and I got a whole new look and feel to the image. Take your time and think it through and make sure you have an idea of where you are going before you start. There is no need to fly completely blind. Be confident, clever and calculated and you will soon find that you can amaze yourself and satiate that starving creative beast inside you with a nice healthy meal.
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
Studio Lighting: Unravelling the Complexity of Multiple Lights
We’ve just updated our preview of the Nikon Coolpix A with a full set of studio shots, showing image quality in both JPEG and RAW capture modes. This is in addition to a gallery of real-world samples, and first impressions of our initial findings from shooting with the camera both in and out of the studio. The Nikon Coolpix A features a 16MP CMOS sensor, and a fixed, 28mm equivalent F2.8 lens. Click through for a link to our preview, which now includes our studio comparison pages.
Following the recent public release of Adobe Camera Raw 7.4, we’ve updated our studio comparison database with new raw conversions of files from the Fujifilm X-Pro 1, X-E1 and X100S. We’ve been using the release candidate version of ACR 7.4 for some time, which contained significant improvements to Adobe’s treatment of files from Fujifilm’s X-TRANS sensors. The official public release version of ACR 7.4 brings some further (very minor) tweaks. Click through for links to the studio comparison pages in our X-Pro 1 and X-E1 reviews, and X100S preview, now with ACR 7.4 raw conversions.
Your iPad is your Sunday Times. Your game console. Your encyclopedia. The guardian of your deepest, darkest secrets. (Better put a password on that!)
And now, it’s your new studio light!
It’s true. Your tablet is powerful enough to illuminate your subject in almost any photo situation.
This guide will show you how a tablet can super charge your shots with creative backdrops, custom light shapes, and pop art colors.
Just when you thought your tablet reached peak awesomeness, it suddenly got so much awesomer.
Turn Your Tablet Into a Studio Light
p.s. Our Phoneography 101 course for both Android and iPhone students is starting April 1st! The last days to enroll are coming up quick, so make sure to enroll today!
Why It’s Cool:
Studio lights and softboxes are big, cumbersome, and cost a bundle!
By comparison, your tablet is like a cheetah vs a hippo. It’s quick, versatile, and light on its feet.
Download backdrops for free and create customized shapes and reflections that will make your photos stand out from the crowd.
The Ingredients:
Tablet
Phone, compact camera, or DSLR
iOS: Softbox Lite (Free)
Android: Softlight (Free)
Shape It Up
With a little help from your tablet you can add shiny shapes to your reflective subjects.
For this shot you will need a something reflective like a camera lens or a wine glass.
Download a simple shape like a star or a triangle or select a shape on your lighting app.
Setup your tablet at an angle so that it bounces off your subject and into the cameras lens.
It takes some experimentation to get the angle just right so if you are using a DSLR try turning on live view on your rear LCD screen.
This should make it easier to see the reflections.
Glitz Up Your Portrait:
For a playful sparkle in the eye and dramatic portrait lighting, look no farther than your tablet!
A tripod is helpful if you are doing a self portrait and you will need to shoot this pic in a dark environment.
Select a shape on your tablet and setup your camera with a short timer.
Focus the camera on your face and shuffle just slightly to the right.
Hold your tablet out in front of you and up to the left and let the magic happen.
Open That Aperture:
This technique will leave you with a softly glowing background like the embers of a camp fire.
First, pick a subject with some depth to it like a large leaf or a clump of berries.
Put a circular pattern on your tablet that complements your subjects color.
Get up close and open your aperture as wide as possible.
This shot works great with a DSLR and a macro lens but is more difficult with a phone’s camera which produces very little shallow depth of field.
Double Glow:
If you have two tablets you can make a light tepee for bright and shiny macro closeups.
Place your tablets with their screens turned inward so they make a roof over your subject.
Hold the tablets together at the top with your fingers or use a little tape.
Now shoot your subject down the corridor of your glowing cyber tunnel.
Make a Silhouette
Like the iPod commercials of yesteryear you can use your tablet to create cool silhouette style photos.
Put a solid color on your screen and place your subject halfway between your camera and tablet.
If you have a DSLR change your light metering to spot and aim your focus point at the tablets glowing screen.
You may want to focus manually since the room will need to be pretty dark.
Shine Up Your Food Shots:
Give your food shots that extra sparkle by zapping your snack with a tablet softbox.
Place your food items against a black backdrop in a dark room.
Set a long exposure, maybe 25 seconds, f/11, ISO 200.
Start your exposure and paint your food with your tablet making sure the screen is facing away from your camera.
This trick work great with a phone too!
Pick a Backdrop
A matching background will do wonders to enhance your macro shots.
Simply download a backdrop and place your subject on top of your tablets screen.
If you are shooting with a DSLR use a small aperture, maybe f/22.
Phones will work great for this shot as they already have a wide depth of field.
You can avoid glare by shooting your tablets screen at a sharp angle instead of straight on.
Incorporate Movement
Create ghostly effects in your photos by moving your tablet through the background of your shot.
To achieve this pic you will need a completely dark environment so decide on your camera settings before you turn out the lights.
First set your camera for a long exposure maybe 20-30 seconds and pick out a pattern on your tablet.
Mount your camera on a tripod, focus on your subject, and then switch your camera to manual focus so auto focus doesn’t kick in with the lights off.
Hit the lights, press the shutter button, and move your tablet through the back of your shot while the shutter is open.
You can use a phone set to a white screen to paint in your subject with light.
Shine a Spotlight
A circular shape is a great way to highlight your subject with dramatic lighting.
First select a shape from your softbox app or download a picture from the internet.
Place your subject on top of your tablet so that it’s illuminated from beneath.
Setting your camera to center weighted light metering will allow you to just capture light from your spotlit subject and keep out background light.
If the object you’re shooting is clear, you get a cool glowing effect all the way up to the top.
Take it further
Shoot one subject lit with a variety of colors. Then combine the images into a photo square with Photoshop or Pic Stitch.
Jesse Rosten takes it to a whole nother level with an all iPad photo shoot.
Make 3D light paintings with your iPad using apps like Holographium.
Thanks to the members of the Softbox Pro Flickr group for their photo inspiration!
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We’ve just added three pages of studio test data to our preview of the Fujifilm X100S, following the publication of a gallery of real-world samples, last week. The X100S is the successor to the popular X100, and offers a fixed 35mm (equiv.) F2 lens, and a version of Fujifilm’s APS-C format X-Trans sensor with hybrid phase-detection AF. A host of other, smaller improvements should make the X100S a considerably more appealing camera than its predecessor. Click through for a link to the updated preview to see for yourself how it compares to its peers in our studio.
Studio lights and softboxes are big, cumbersome, and cost a bundle!
With a little help from your tablet you can add shiny shapes to your reflective subjects.
For a playful sparkle in the eye and dramatic portrait lighting, look no farther than your tablet!
This technique will leave you with a softly glowing background like the embers of a camp fire. 
If you have two tablets you can make a light tepee for bright and shiny macro closeups.
Like the iPod commercials of yesteryear you can use your tablet to create cool silhouette style photos. 
Give your food shots that extra sparkle by zapping your snack with a tablet softbox.
A matching background will do wonders to enhance your macro shots. 
Create ghostly effects in your photos by moving your tablet through the background of your shot.
A circular shape is a great way to highlight your subject with dramatic lighting. 
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