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How Do You Know When You’re Ready to Start Charging for Your Photography?

09 May

The post How Do You Know When You’re Ready to Start Charging for Your Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

An image from my first wedding. One of the scariest days of my life.

How do you know when you’re ready to start charging for your photography?

When someone is willing to pay you for them.

There you go. In twenty-two words, I have answered one of the most-asked questions in photography.

In all seriousness though, that is pretty much it.

You only have to look at the story of many photographers and how they started. They simply took an offer to get paid, fearing they were not ready.

Let’s be honest right out of the gate. You will be nervous as hell – probably convinced you are a fraud – and will be fearful of delivering the images to the client. Awaiting their reaction, you may wonder why anyone would pay you to take photos. This is natural and is more commonly known as “imposter syndrome.”

Imposter syndrome

To put it simply, it is the feeling that your work isn’t very good and doesn’t deserve the attention it gets. Albert Einstein also suffered from this, so if this sounds like you, you are in good company.

The truth is, people who are highly skilled or accomplished tend to think others are just as skilled. Because you see what you do as simple, you don’t see the vast amount of skill involved in the work you do. You take it for granted because it comes so easily to you.

It is also human nature to be more critical of your own work than that of others. Put this into a world of social media where everyone is #livingtheirbestlife, and there is what appears to be a never-ending stream of amazing images you see as better than yours. Now you have the perfect storm.

The fact that Einstein suffered from this shows there seems to be no level of accomplishment that makes you able to see worth in what you do. In some cases, higher accolades and awards make things worse.

You just need to remember you are skilled in what you do and your work is good.

Unfortunately, if you suffer from imposter syndrome, you may never be able to rid yourself of it. However, there are things you can do to make it easier. Tactics include talking with others about your issues and taking note of the positive feedback you get. People don’t have to say nice things about your work; they say them because they mean it!

Most importantly, remember that almost everybody suffers from this in one respect or another. I suffer from this badly. Repeatedly, I think my work is awful and wonder why people want to pay me to take their photographs. I convince myself that unless I have taken the best photograph in the history of photography of whatever I am shooting, then it is a failure.

Luckily, I have a great family who support me through the tough times and remind me that people pay for my work because I am a good photographer.

Band portrait again grunge background

I had shot lots of bands, but few band portraits at this point. They were nervous as I had photographed artists they loved. I was nervous because they were paying me for portraits. Imposter syndrome at its finest.

Fake it til you make it – except for weddings! 

There is always a huge element of “fake it til you make it.” You sometimes need to have faith in yourself and go for it. Standing at the edge of the diving board is the worst place to be because you have time to think. Sometimes you need to jump off and try your best. At times it will be graceful, sometimes you may bellyflop. However, in reality, all that is hurt is your pride (and your belly obviously).

Let’s say a friend asks you to photograph their kids because they have seen photos on your Facebook and want some of their kids. They are happy to pay you for the photos too.

My advice is to go for it.

Let’s say the worst happens, and the photos turn out to all be awful (this is more than likely not going to happen. Even if you do not get loads of great shots, you should get a few keepers).  All you do is own up and say you are not happy with the photos and they deserve better. The only thing that is an issue is you have to give up more time to retake the photos.

Photographing a family portrait is the perfect example of when fake it until you make it is okay. Shooting a wedding, however, is not!

The fact that weddings are a one-off event and if you are not 100% certain you can deliver, then you shouldn’t do it.

I have seen (as I am sure many of you have) people on Facebook groups asking questions like “I’m photographing my first wedding next week, I have this lens and that lens. Which will be better? Also, do I need a flash?”

This is irresponsible. You need a certain level of skill and knowledge to photograph a wedding, especially if you are getting paid for it. You cannot gain the knowledge to photograph a wedding by asking questions in a Facebook group a few days before the event. You need to have it before you take on a wedding.

There are always news stories about a wedding photographer getting sued for ruining a couple’s wedding day. Please don’t become one of those. If you aren’t sure if you are ready to photograph a wedding, you probably aren’t.

With that said, your knowledge does not have to be in wedding photography. I know lots of photographers who have never photographed a wedding, but I am sure they would do an awesome job. As a starting point, you need to know how to photograph in a variety of lighting situations. You need to know how to solve exposure issues your camera may throw up, and you need some spare gear in case your main camera dies.

You need a headshot to apply to acting school? Of course, I can (I had no idea).

What equipment do I need if I’m NOT shooting a wedding?

For most photography there are three simple questions:

  • Do you have a camera?
  • Do you have a lens?
  • Do you have a memory card?

If you answered yes to the above three questions, then you have the right equipment to be paid for your photography. Will a variety of lenses and gear make things easier? Yes, but a beginner DSLR with a kit lens is more than capable of producing beautiful images people will be happy to pay you for. 

What equipment do I need if I’m shooting a wedding?

As with the knowledge requirements above, the gear requirements for shooting a wedding are different. A wedding requires a different amount of equipment. The most important is to have two camera bodies. If you have one camera body and something goes wrong, you are in a mess. A spare camera body may not be needed, but it is better not to need something and have it there than to need it desperately and it not be there.

In terms of lenses, most wedding photographers tend to go for two f/2.8 zoom lenses or two to three prime lenses. What is best for you depends on how you like to shoot. Fast lenses are always best for weddings as you can use wider apertures to get more light into the camera in low light scenarios such as dark churches.

For those of you looking for specifics, a zoom lens shooter will use a 24-70 f/2.8 and a 70-200 f/2.8. They may also have a prime lens with an even larger aperture for situations where there is really poor light.

A prime lens shooter mostly works with a 35mm and an 85mm. They may also have a 135mm or a 24mm. These are generally f/1.8 or faster.

Now again these are the basics. I have not included flashes, memory cards, hard drive backups, etc.

I will take this opportunity to remind you again; you really do need a high level of skill and equipment to be able to shoot a wedding. It is hard work if you know what you’re doing. If you don’t, it is like a 12-hour waking nightmare.

camping pods in rural England

Want me to shoot your camping space. Of course, I can. It will be…The first part of the sentence was easy. Asking for the money was always harder. In this case, the client said, “I was expecting to pay more than that.”

What should I charge?

Now for those of you starting to charge, you will always wonder how much should I ask? When you are first starting, you may photograph for an incredibly low rate, and that’s fine.

No matter what some may say, you are not ruining the photography industry by charging $ 100 including all the images when you are starting out. The truth is, people looking for photography at that price point are not going to be purchasing from photographers who charge thousands of dollars for a photo shoot.

There isn’t a right or wrong answer. My first family shoot I charged £50 including the images. My first full wedding I charged £500. Would I charge that now? Of course not. However, at the time, I got some cash, I built my portfolio, and most importantly it built my confidence.

The follow on question is how do you know when you are ready to charge more? Again this is down to you, your ability to deliver beautiful images and your confidence.

The moment I decided to raise my prices was when I was paid £600 to photograph a wedding where the couple had spent over £10,000. They didn’t book me for my price; they loved my work.

After that wedding, I doubled my wedding prices.

This led to more inquiries. Not only that, but I also received inquiries for the type of weddings I wanted to photograph. Was I convinced that raising my prices that much would mean no-one would book me? Of course, but they did, and I eventually raised them again. You just have to be confident, and remember, your prices are something you can easily change.

A photo from one of my first family photoshoots. I got paid the grand total of £50 including all images. Even then, I convinced myself I might be overcharging.

Conclusion

There you have it. You are now ready to start charging. Or, maybe you’re not.

The fact remains that in most situations when people offer to pay you, you are ready. The only thing that might mean you are not is you and your confidence.

You might be the type of person who will happily throw yourself off the 10m diving board and see what happens. Or, you might be the type of person who starts on the side of the pool and works your way up until you are at the 10m mark, confident you won’t bellyflop.

However, at some point, you need to leap. It will be scary, but I promise you, it won’t be as scary as it is in your head.

 

The post How Do You Know When You’re Ready to Start Charging for Your Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


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K&F Concept Nikon Z lens adapters start shipping on January 22nd

19 Jan

If you own a Nikon Z camera and still have a bunch of older lenses from other brands sitting around, K&F Concept’s new line of Nikon Z lens adapters, which will start shipping on January 22, could be worth a look. They could give your old lenses a new lease on life.

In total ten different Z-mount adapters will be available:

  • KF-FDZ for Canon FD mount
  • KF-EFZ for Canon EF mount
  • KF-PKZ for Pentax K mount
  • KF-NGZ for Nikon F mount (G-type)
  • KF-NFZ for Nikon F mount
  • KF-CYZ for Yashica-Contax mount
  • KF-OMZ for Olympus OM mount
  • KF-AAZ for Sony/Minolta A mount
  • KF-SRZ for Minolta MD mount
  • KF-42Z for M42 mount
  • KF-LMZ for Leica M

The adapters are made of brass and aluminum and manually operated. They’re also pretty affordable, with prices ranging from $ 30 to just over $ 60. You can find an overview of all adapters with more detail on the K&F website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Canon EOS R isn’t a mirrorless 5D IV, but it’s a start

06 Sep

What you need to know about the Canon EOS R

Canon’s much-anticipated, long-rumored and at this point very leaked full-frame mirrorless camera is finally here. The Canon EOS R debuts a brand new ‘RF’ mount and a 30MP CMOS sensor, with Dual Pixel CMOS autofocus and 4K video.

Despite Canon’s claims that the EOS R is ‘the internals of an EOS 5D IV in a smaller body’, the EOS R is not exactly the mirrorless EOS 5D IV that a lot of people were predicting (and hoping for) but it’s not the mirrorless Rebel that some cynics were predicting, either. If anything, it’s more like a slightly evolved mirrorless 6D II and – spiritually at least – it appears to have a lot in common with a much, much older camera.

With the dust only just settling after the recent launch of Nikon’s Z7, what should you take away from Canon’s latest ILC? Click through this article for some initial thoughts, and a closer look at the EOS R’s key features.

30MP full-frame sensor

Arguably the most important single component of any digital camera, and even more important in a mirrorless ILC, is the sensor. The Canon EOS R uses a 30MP full-frame CMOS chip with a low-pass filter which produces images with the exact same output dimensions as – and may in fact be a close relative of – the sensor used in the 5D Mark IV. The sensor is paired with an Digic 8 processor.

The EOS R’s standard ISO sensitivity range of 100-40,000 is very similar to the 5D IV’s

Assuming we’re right about the sensor being closely related to the one in the EOS 5D IV (pending lab testing), it’s not a bad thing. The 5D IV’s sensor isn’t up there with the best full-frame sensors on the market when it comes to either resolution or dynamic range, but it’s better than the 26MP sensor in the 6D II and it’s arguably the best all-round sensor in Canon’s inventory (the 5DS/R offer higher resolution but lower dynamic range and the EOS-1D X Mark II trades resolution for speed and sensitivity). The EOS R’s standard ISO sensitivity range of 100-40,000 is very similar to the 5D IV’s, too, the two cameras offer the same absolute maximum ISO sensitivity of ISO 102,400.

The EOS R offers Dual Pixel RAW, plus Canon’s 14-bit CRW Raw format as well as the relatively new C-Raw, which provides full resolution but much smaller file sizes.

New ‘RF’ mount

The Canon EOS R debuts a brand new lens mount – Canon’s fourth ‘full-frame’ mount, if you include the long since retired manual focus FL/D and R. The transition from FD to the totally new (and totally incompatible) electronic EF mount in the late 1980s was quite a jolt for some long-time Canon shooters, but EF to RF looks like it’ll be considerably smoother.

Like the 30+ year-old EF mount, the RF mount is based around a throat diameter of 54mm but with a much shorter flange-back distance of 20mm (compared to 44mm). This is compared to 46mm and 18mm for EF-M, and the longer flange-back distance of the full-frame RF standard would appear to make Canon’s two mirrorless mounts incompatible with (i.e., unadaptable to) one another.

No EF-M compatibility

The lack of EF-M cross-compatibility is a bit surprising. It forecloses the possibility of anyone using EF-M lenses on a hypothetical future APS-C format EF-R camera, essentially closing off the much vaunted APS-C to full-frame ‘upgrade path’ for Canon’s mirrorless customers.

Canon’s long-term interest in APS-C mirrorless has always looked a little shaky – could the EOS-M line be left to quietly die, in the same way as Nikon’s 1 system? We hope not. More likely in the short term (but still a bit odd, however you look at it) is that Canon will pitch its EF-M cameras as a solution for those photographers that want the convenience and size advantages of APS-C, with RF as a full-frame mirrorless system running (kinda, sorta,) in parallel.

If nothing else, the simultaneous announcement of a 32mm F1.4 for the EOS M-series is an indication that Canon wants us (you) to know that it’s still taking EF-M somewhat seriously.

EF to EF-R adapters

On the other hand, converting EF lenses to the EF-R mount is easy, courtesy of no less than three adapters, all of which do basically the same thing. The most basic is a simple mount converter, with an additional two adapters which add an extra control ring, and a tray for drop-in filters, respectively (the latter is pictured above). These adapters allow EF and EF-S lenses to be used on the EOS R without limitation.

Sadly, because of its relatively (for a mirrorless camera) deep flange-back, the RF mount will not be capable of accepting as many adapted third-party lenses as the super wide, super shallow Nikon Z mount. Neither Sony E nor Nikon Z-mount lenses will ever be an option for use on the EOS R or later cameras, for example.

5,655-position Dual Pixel CMOS AF

Canon’s continually-improving Dual Pixel CMOS autofocus has impressed us for years, and the system included in the EOS R is without doubt the most impressive iteration we’ve seen so far. Covering 100% of the frame vertically and around 88% horizontally, and rated down to -6EV (with an F1.2 lens) the EOS R’s autofocus chops are impressive. More importantly, the EOS R always focuses wide open, even in 5 fps bursts: this helps the AF system continue to function optimally in low light even if you’re shooting stopped down.

While 5000+ selectable AF positions might look like overkill, we’re excited to see the difference it makes to precise tracking. That many on-sensor phase-detection AF points does represent an awful lot of data for the EOS R’s processor to move around, though.

Autofocus performance

From our initial impressions, autofocus appears very accurate. Autofocus speed is good: focus is snappy and even in continuous AF the system is quick to refocus on moving subjects, as long as your lens is up to the task.

What will probably slow you down more than the outright AF speeds, though, is the overall method for selecting your AF point or subject: you’ll have to drag your thumb around the touchscreen, and given the touchscreen’s laggy responsiveness, this will be an issue.

Canon EOS R autofocus modes

There’s a ‘Pupil Detection’ mode to ensure eyes are in focus but this is only available in AF-S mode. Disappointingly, like all mirrorless systems so far, the EOS R does not offer flash AF assist when a compatible Speedlite is attached.

Speed and continuous shooting

Sadly, no current mirrorless camera can boast the ‘instant on’ experience of a good DSLR, and the EOS R is no different, with a startup time of 0.9sec. On the face of it, the Canon EOS R’s continuous shooting performance is fairly unremarkable, too. A maximum framerate of 8 fps with focus locked isn’t going to set the world on fire, and nor is 5fps with AF tracking or 3 fps in the higher-precision ‘tracking priority’ mode. Remember what we said earlier about all that data from so many Dual Pixel CMOS autofocus points stressing the R’s processor?

While the EOS R isn’t exactly a speed demon, with a UHS-II card installed it does offer a halfway decent buffer

To be fair, the general experience of taking pictures is really nice, with virtually no blackout between shots, and AF tracking seems to be very good at 3/5fps. But it doesn’t look like the EOS R will trouble the wallets of action photographers any time soon. While the EOS R isn’t exactly a speed demon, with a UHS-II card installed it does offer a halfway decent buffer of 100 JPEGs (large/fine) and 47 Raws.

Our bet? There will be a speed-focused mirrorless EOS-1D type camera launched in time for the Tokyo olympics in 2020, alongside a similarly pro-oriented Nikon Z-mount competitor.

Handling and design

Just like the Nikon Z series, the EOS R makes a lot of effort to accommodate existing DSLR shooters, with a dial layout and menu system that will be immediately familiar.

But, also like the Nikons, it also switches to using its maker’s live view AF system, user experience and nomenclature. This won’t be quite such a shock for Canon users, since the Dual Pixel DSLRs were pretty usable in live view mode (and, in the case of the EOS 80D, arguably better when used that way). But it still means it won’t be as easy to jump back and forth between shooting a Canon DSLR and using the EOS R as Canon likes to imply.

This image shows the optional BG-E22 battery grip. The BG-E22 can hold two LP-E6N batteries, effectively doubling battery life.

Handling and design

The build quality and grip shape are immediately impressive when you first pick up the EOS R. It’s built with a magnesium alloy shell over a magnesium alloy body and it has a real sense of quality to it. Changing exposure parameters feels immediate – like a DSLR.

However, while the build feels premium, the lack of AF joystick hints at this model’s slightly more modest status. We’re also told the weather sealing is more 6D than 5D standard.

On the production-spec cameras we used, the touchscreen interface was laggy and rather slow to use

Without an AF joystick, you’re pretty much required to depend on the touchscreen-based touchpad AF. This is pretty customizable, allowing you to choose ‘relative’ or ‘absolute’ positioning, and also limiting the active area of the touchscreen. But on the production-spec cameras we used, the touchscreen interface was laggy and rather slow to use, which makes the camera as a whole slower to operate.

The touchscreen can also feel laggy in playback mode. But that’s not the only thing that feels laggy about the camera: as the EOS R is writing to the card, some camera functions, like switching to playback mode, can feel very slow to operate.

Protective measures

One interesting first for a mirrorless camera is that the EOS R closes its mechanical shutter when the camera is turned off, perhaps to reduce the risk of dust on the sensor. Canon recommends always turning off the camera when changing lenses, as a consequence.

We’ve always been told that the glass cover is much stronger and harder to damage than the delicate mechanical shutter blades, which makes this an interesting decision. The camera also stops its lens down on shut-down and shows a warning not to leave it pointing at the sun with a lens cap off, presumably to avoid warping the shutter with the lens-concentrated rays of the sun.

No IBIS

With the EOS R, Canon is continuing its long tradition of putting image stabilization into selected lenses, not its cameras. The normally stated logic is sound – better tailor an I.S. system for the specific demands of a particular lens than go with a ‘one size fits all’ in-body system which inevitably adds bulk to the camera.

It’s a fair argument, but Sony’s A7/A9 bodies and Nikon’s new Z6 and Z7 do offer in-body stabilization, it works, and it is very useful for video and stills alike. The new Canon RF 28-70mm F2 for example may turn out to be a great lens, but since it lacks an in-built I.S. element, it’s completely unstabilized on the EOS R. Sure, the R offers digital ‘5-axis’ stabilization in video mode, but it’s no substitute for an optical-mechanical system.

Single UHS-II SD card slot

And if there’s one thing we learned from recent reaction to the Nikon Z7 it’s that only one card slot means EVERYTHING IS TERRIBLE AND WE’RE ALL GOING TO DIEEEEEEEEEEE!

If you, or anyone you know has been affected by the inclusion of a single card slot in a digital camera, we want to hear from you. Asking for help is the first step.

Viewfinder and rear screen

The EOS R’s viewfinder is built around an OLED panel with a resolution equivalent to 3.69 million-dots, and a magnification of approximately 0.76X. Coverage, as we’d expect from a modern EVF, is 100% of the image area. The EOS R’s viewfinder is really nice, offering a comparable (if not quite equal) clarity and perceptual resolution to the excellent (and similarly spec’d) finder in Nikon’s Z7 and Z6. It’s slightly smaller though, compared to the 0.8X finder magnification of the Nikon models.

The EOS R’s LCD is fully articulated, rotating around a hinge on the left-hand side of the camera’s rear plate

The EOS R’s rear LCD also looks very nice indeed, offering a resolution of 2.1 million dots, with touch sensitivity. In terms of resolution this almost (but not quite) matches the benchmark panels on the back of the Nikon D500/850/D5 and should look crisper than the 1.6 million-dot LCD on the back of the EOS 5D IV. The screen is fully articulated, rotating around a hinge on the left-hand side of the camera’s rear plate. The well-integrated on-sensor PDAF system and sharp, articulating rear LCD make the EOS 6D II great fun to use in live view mode, and the EOS R looks like it will be be similarly enjoyable.

LP-E6N battery

The Canon EOS R uses the same LP-E6-pattern battery that has powered more than ten of the company’s DSLRs, and the (included) ‘N’ variant will support in-camera charging, via the PD-E1 power adapter over USB C. The company recommends only using its own adapter.

The EOS R’s CIPA rating for battery life ranges from 330 to 560 shots per full charge, depending on shooting conditions. For reference, that compares to 850-900 shots from the 5D Mark IV. The lowest rating is derived from mostly viewfinder shooting at 32 degrees F / (zero degrees C), and the highest rating refers to composing images on the rear screen, at room temperature, with ‘Eco mode’ activated. With a boring old LP-E6 (not the newer ‘N’) battery life should be about 5% lower.

Any way you look at it, the EOS R won’t have anything like the endurance of Sony’s a7 III

However you end up shooting with the EOS R, CIPA rated battery life for hybrid mirrorless cameras should be taken with a very large pinch of salt. In a single shooting session, we’ve managed more than 5X the CIPA rated number of exposures from a single charge of the new Nikon Z7’s battery, for example – a camera that has been roundly trashed on our forums by people who have never used it for its poor battery life. That’s not to say that CIPA ratings aren’t useful for comparison – any way you look at it, the EOS R won’t have anything like the endurance of Sony’s a7 III, for example.

Video

The Canon EOS R can of course shoot video as well as stills, at a maximum resolution of 3840 x 2160 pixels (that’s 4K UHD) at 30p. 24p 4K is also available, as well as HD at up to 60p, with a high-speed 120p option available at a reduced resolution of 720p. At its absolute highest quality setting, the EOS R is capable of a maximum bitrate of 480 Mbps, which works out to about 8 minutes of recording on a 32GB card before you’re out of space (and you’ll need it to be a V60-rated card).

The EOS R gains the ability to capture C-Log footage internally

That’s about the same as the EOS 5D Mark IV and compares to a maximum bitrate for internal recording of 100Mbps from the Nikon Z7. We’re not necessarily expecting video from the R to be more than four times better than footage captured on the Z7, and in fact the option to shoot at lower bitrates using the more efficient H.264 (rather than being locked to Motion JPEG, as in the 5D IV) is actually more useful.

The EOS R gains the ability to capture C-Log footage internally (as 8-bit 4:2:0 MP4 files) or stream 10-bit 4:2:2 C-Log over HDMI. This is a positive step.

Video performance

Sadly however, video performance doesn’t appear to live up to these specs: 4K is limited to a maximum of 30 frames per second, and exhibits significant rolling shutter, from what we’ve seen so far. The image above is a still frame from a 4K 30p whip-pan using the EOS 5D IV showing how severe the so-called ‘jello effect’ can be. The EOS R also imposes the same ~1.7x crop that we saw on the 5D IV, essentially reducing it to a sub-APS-C camera in 4K mode.

For a company with such a long history of disrupting the video market, we had hoped for more

Yes, that’s right – the EOS R is unique among current 4K-capable full-frame mirrorless cameras in not offering full-width video capture in its highest resolution video mode. If you’re a stills-focused photographer, this probably won’t bother you, but it’s still disappointing that Canon hasn’t invested more in the video features of the R. For a company with such a long history of disrupting the video market, we had hoped for more. Maybe next time?

On the plus side, though, there’s the highly usable Dual Pixel CMOS AF system which, combined with a full flip-out touchscreen and the ability to use EF-S lenses, means the R could be quite an effective camera for vlogging.

Buttons, dials and panels

In terms of its operational design, the EOS R is a mixture of the old and the new. The venerable top control dial (which dates back more than 30 years to the film-era T90) is still right where it’s always been, on the top of the grip just behind the shutter button, but the traditional EOS rear dial has been relocated to the camera’s top right shoulder. A PowerShot style 4-way controller takes its place to the right of the LCD on the rear of the camera. There is no dedicated AF joystick, and no traditional PASM dial. Instead, exposure modes are cycled via the ‘Mode’ button at the center of the rearmost control dial to the right of the top-plate LCD.

Several functions can be assigned to the touch-sensitive M-Fn bar

To the left of the EOS R’s viewfinder you’ll see an on/off switch cunningly disguised as another control dial (an unwelcome throwback to the original EOS M), and to the right you’ll notice a brand new control point, which Canon is calling the ‘M-Fn bar’. Several functions can be assigned to this touch-sensitive bar, depending on what you want to do, and how you want to interact with it.

You can touch one side or the other, press the entire bar at its center, or swipe from left to right or right to left. In this way, the bar can be used to set a range of functions during shooting, ranging from ISO sensitivity to display info. In playback mode it can be used as a function shortcut or to ‘jump’ between ranges of images in a sequence.

Final thoughts (for now)

So the EOS R isn’t the mirrorless 5D IV that some people were hoping for (except in video mode…), much less the mirrorless EOS-1D X Mark II that others were bravely predicting, but even so, dismissing the R would be a mistake. As a company, Canon remains very conservative in many respects, while being quietly groundbreaking in others. Dual Pixel CMOS AF was always going to be at the heart of any canon full-frame mirrorless camera, for example, and the version that Canon has included in the EOS R appears to be significantly evolved compared to its earliest iterations.

We always knew that Canon would enter the mirrorless full-frame mirrorless market eventually, but not until it was ready – and certainly not in a way that would risk either killing sales of its hugely popular DSLRs or spooking the heavily-invested professionals that make up such an influential and valuable (albeit numerically comparatively small) portion of its customer base.

The original EOS 650, which debuted the EF mount in 1987. In terms of specification, the 650 was a fairly pedestrian camera, but groundbreaking nonetheless. Picture: Szczery, via Wikipedia Commons.

The EOS R is the natural product of that philosophy. In fact, it reminds me a lot of the original EOS 650, Canon’s first EF-mount SLR and a fairly ‘meh’ camera even by the standards of 1987, but one which nonetheless ushered in a sea-change in Canon’s optical and mechanical design. Despite its unassuming specification, the EOS 650 and its subsequent sister models rang the changes for the entire photography industry for many, many years afterwards.

For now, the most interesting thing about the launch of the RF system is the new mount

Canon is very rarely first to market with new technologies – a point made by executives at the EOS R’s official launch. Historically it’s not been so much a matter of when, but how the company enters the market that has proved impactful. The EOS R isn’t a particularly exciting camera – especially for videographers – but as a statement of intent it is highly significant.

For now, the most interesting thing about the launch of the RF system is the new mount, and the co-announced native lenses. Even if you’re not particularly inspired by the R, it’s worth looking back to those early EOS models of yesteryear and pondering what might be coming next. The new 28-70mm f2 looks like it could be one hell of a lens, but Canon probably doesn’t expect it to be bought by EOS R users. It’s more than twice the weight of the R, for one thing. More likely it’s intended to be used by purchasers of a future RF-mount camera, one more geared towards the needs of advanced enthusiasts and professionals.

For now, the EOS R is pretty much what we expected it would be. It’s not the final product of Canon’s mirrorless ambitions, it’s a start.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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12 Good Reasons Why You Should Start a Photography Blog

20 May

Starting a photography blog was one of the best decisions I have ever made. I never would’ve guessed when I pulled the trigger on my first blog post how much good would come from it.

Hiking trails in the hills of Castlepoint

I talked briefly about starting a blog in this article, 10 Photography Lessons I’ve Learned Over 10 Years, and I decided it would be worth going deeper. The benefits of sharing your photos on your own blog are many, and I’m going to talk about 12 of them here.

This is by no means an exhaustive list, but hopefully, it will inspire you to start a photography blog of your own.

1. Having a photography blog will help you grow

It’s easy to get stale in your photography sometimes. You tend to shoot the same things the same way and post-process using the same presets.

A blog can help inspire you to get out of that stale rut and grow as a photographer because you will naturally want to share something new and exciting. Knowing that people are viewing your photography blog is a great motivator to post a better photo today than you did last week.

Lighthouse on the California Coast - 12 Good Reasons Why You Should Start a Photography Blog

2. You’ll build your own platform

Your blog is yours to do what you want with, and that means you’re building something that is 100% your own. If you only ever post your photos to social media then you’re dependent on those services, and your photography is not their priority.

Building a photography blog that is all about you and your photos will be there as long as you want it to, and it can become a platform that grows over time.

3. Display your photos your way

All blogging services will come with some form of customization, which means you can show off your photography however you want. You can use anything from simple, free themes that look great right out of the box to paid premium themes that give you more features and options.

If you really want full control over how it looks and feels, get a self-hosted blog on your own domain. They’re cheap and easy to set up, and you will own your blog forever. You can even have it double as your photography portfolio website.

Thunderstorm off the coast of Cuba - 12 Good Reasons Why You Should Start a Photography Blog

4. Share more of your photography

Your photography blog can be a great place to share your images that might not be your best work. There are a number of reasons you might want to do this.

You might want to share a collection of photos of a location or subject. You could share your before-and-after photos to illustrate a new post-processing technique. There are many reasons why you might want to share some photos that aren’t good enough for your main photography portfolio, and a blog is a great place to do that.

5. You’ll become a better storyteller

Learning to tell stories with your photos is one of the best ways to improve your photography. A good storyteller will capture people’s interest and emotions. Blogging will help you to become a better storyteller because the images you share come with a story.

The great part about a photography blog is that you can write as much as you want, and it adds to the story of the photo. The process of telling the story about the photo will develop your creative muscles and you will naturally get better at storytelling with your photography.

Friends riding bikes in Tulum - 12 Good Reasons Why You Should Start a Photography Blog

6. People will get to know you better

I like to think of my own blog as not only somewhere to teach travel photography, but where people can get to know me as a real human. I love to write travel stories on my blog, sharing not just my photos, but the stories and experiences that go along with them.

People who find and read your photography blog will see more of who you are than they will on Instagram or Facebook. It can be a place to let people get to know the person behind the camera.

7. You’ll see your growth over time

There’s nothing quite as confronting as looking back through old photos and reading old posts on your blog. It can make you cringe sometimes, but that’s a good thing.

Your blog can be a place where you document your photography journey. You will be able to see your growth over time, which can be incredibly encouraging, especially on those days when you feel like your photography sucks (we all have those days).

hiking trail in the mountains - 12 Good Reasons Why You Should Start a Photography Blog

8. It helps you critically analyze your photos

As you grow as a photographer you get better at looking at your photos more critically and curating them. A photography blog can help a lot with this as well. The process of writing a post about a photo will help you to analyze it better because you spend more time thinking about the whys, hows, whats, and ifs of the photo.

Why did I take that photo? How could I have improved it? What story does it tell? If I used a different lens, how would it have changed it? You’ll be surprised how many more questions you’ll find yourself asking as you write.

9. It can open up new opportunities

Sharing your photos is really putting yourself out there, which can be scary. One of the advantages of that is that it makes it easier for people to find you. Google loves blogs, so you’re far more likely to show up if somebody searches for something you’ve shared on your blog than if you’d just shared it on social media.

Over time, the more you share on your photography blog, the more likely you are to show up in searches. More visibility means greater potential to be discovered by photo buyers or other sites.

sunset reflection in rock pools - 12 Good Reasons Why You Should Start a Photography Blog

10. Writing exercises your creativity

You may not think of it this way, but writing can be an incredibly creative outlet. Your previous classroom experiences may be contrary to this, but it’s true.

Creative writing exercises similar parts of the brain as photography, so it makes sense that they strengthen each other. You may not think that sitting down and tapping away at a computer can help your photography, but it can. A blog is a great place to exercise your creative muscles regularly.

11. You will inspire others

I’ve lost count of how many emails or comments I’ve had from people who have read my blog and felt encouraged or inspired. This relates to my previous point about people getting to know you better.

When people read your blog and begin to get to know you it shows them that you’re just another human with a camera who’s on a journey too. A photo blog makes you more relatable, and people are more likely to be inspired by you if they feel they can relate to you.

silhouette of a tree and the night sky - 12 Good Reasons Why You Should Start a Photography Blog

12. Blogging itself can become another hobby

If you’re anything like me, you probably don’t need another hobby, but hear me out. Blogging just may not be for you. That’s fine.

On the other hand, you might absolutely love it and it may grow from an outlet for sharing your photography, into something that you do for pleasure. You won’t know unless you try.

What are you waiting for?

These are only 12 of dozens of reasons to start a photography blog. I strongly encourage you to give it a go. If you’re one of the many photographers who has a blog but has let it slip, why don’t you to pick it up again? Maybe you’ve been on the fence about it and this article will give you a push.

There are countless blogging platforms to choose from, but I strongly recommend WordPress. I also recommend the free Start a Blog course over at Problogger (another site by dPS creator Darren Rowse).

Do you have a photography blog already? What benefits have come from it? Still on the fence? I would love to hear your experiences or questions in the comments area below.

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Slow start to year as camera production and shipping plunge

03 Mar
Photo by Arno Body

According to the latest data released by CIPA, the number of cameras made and shipped in the first month of 2018 barely reached 70% of the volume for the same period last year and the year before that. Not a great start to the year…

As usual, cameras with lenses built in—compacts and bridge cameras—continue to show the worst decline, with only half as many of these models shipped to the USA and Asia in January 2018 as there were in January 2017. But while production and shipments were quite dramatically down by volume, measurements by value are not quite so bad, indicating that a more high priced cameras are selling… or that camera prices are rising.

The value of interchangeable lens system mirrorless cameras produced actually rose by 8% even though the volume produced was only 80% of production last January—just fractionally ahead of DSLRs. Interestingly, DSLR shipments to Japan in that period were up on the previous year by volume and by value, but it was the only region that didn’t see a decline in this category.

Further figures released by CIPA demonstrate the market’s decline since 2016, and show that while January 2017 was almost level with January 2016, this year has started very differently. The decline of cameras with built-in lenses has dropped to only 60% of the number shipped in 2016, and more worryingly, graphs show that January 2018 shipment figures are well below almost every other month in the last two years.

Hopefully this is just a blip, and we’ll see the numbers jump back into the black (or closer to it) in February. For more information, visit the CIPA website, or check out the full report here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

16 Dec

Do you struggle to know what to do with your images in post-processing? Do you know where to start with photo editing? Can you relate to this?

Before and after photo editing.

I recently received a message for help from another photographer, “I’m so frustrated with Photoshop. I don’t know what to do or where to even start!?!?” So I asked, “What’s the plan? What are you trying to achieve?” His reply, “I’m not sure…”.

The uncomfortable truth is that we’ve all been there. Staring at Photoshop wondering which of its tools will achieve the look we’re so desperately trying to replicate. You try clicking on every button, using every tool and creating 1000 different layers to add complexity to your image under the illusion that this will instantly make it awesome.

Frustrated, you give up. And if you’re anything like me, you probably walk into the kitchen, open the pantry and look for answers inside a packet of cookies.

This overwhelming hurdle of frustration can cause you to stumble, fall out of love with editing and certainly begin to make everything feel too hard and unachievable. In this tutorial, I’ll show you a very simple technique that will have you soaring over this hurdle so you can continue on your journey to craft beautiful images.

After some thoughtful and carefully planned out photo editing.

It’s all in the preparation

It doesn’t take long for the process of editing in Photoshop to feel chaotic.

It’s easy to take a look at your photo and instantly get to work by creating a layer on top of layer targeting all sorts of adjustments as you see them. Add a bit of contrast here, some brightness there, sharpen this up and blur that… It’s fast. It’s reactive.

Before you know it, you’ll have curves in places you didn’t know you had and more level adjustments than an ergonomic office chair.

You may find yourself stumbling your way through the edit, the process will probably feel a little clunky but you’ll be somewhat happy with the outcome until you click on the next photo. Where the whole process starts again and you don’t know what to do, where to start, and worst of all – you’ve run out of cookies.

What happens if we remove the chaos?

Creating beautiful images is a craft. And much like any craft, a lot of unsexy work goes into the preparation before the fun stuff starts happening.

  • Landscape photographers spend their time scouting locations, researching where the sun will set (or rise) and studying the weather before they venture out at 4 am to capture the magic.
  • Quality chefs spend hours sourcing and preparing their ingredients before they serve their masterpieces.
  • Painters clean, dust and prime their brushes and canvas before bringing their vision to life.
  • Authors spend hours creating a structure and a content plan before putting pen to paper.
  • Builders draw up blueprints and intricate floor plans before laying bricks and building houses.

Preparation is the key to delivering the best possible final version of your craft. Preparation sets up the foundations from which you can begin to form consistency and style, and it helps you focus and stay on track.

So, what does preparation look like?

Well, just like a builder doesn’t turn up to a site and randomly lay bricks to build a house, or a Michelin-star chef doesn’t turn up on a night of service and create a menu from what’s laying around in the cupboards. You, as a photographer and image editor, should try to avoid randomly plowing your way through Lightroom or Photoshop, aimlessly slapping on layers and adjustments without creating a plan that details what you are trying to achieve.

So, when you approach your image – you know what to edit, where to start and what you’re doing. There is no chaos – it’s systematic and as a result, you’re cool, collected, and methodical.

Pfffft! Who has time to plan!?

It’s easy to become frustrated with Lightroom and Photoshop. And it’s even easier to buy your way out of it with presets and actions. I get it, you want rapid results, you want to see instant progress, you don’t want to stop, think and plan – you just want to do.

The truth is, editing beautiful images is a craft. It’s something to take pride in. It’s the final step for you to infuse your images with your personality and style before you share your work with your clients and followers. Therefore, sometimes it’s a good idea to give the editing process a little more love and care than the press of a button.

Doing so can be the difference between your clients and friends thinking, “Oh that’s nice…” and saying “Oh my! That’s AMAZING! Can I order a copy!?”

So, if you want to know how to build something beautiful — something with craftsmanship, something you’re proud of, something that your audience will love – spend time on the preparation stage and create a plan for your edits. The reality is, it takes a little more effort than pressing a preset button. Here’s how you can make a simple plan.

Step #1 – Load Photoshop

Open your image in Photoshop. You can do this from within Photoshop by navigating to FILE > OPEN and selecting your image. Alternatively, you can load your image into Photoshop from within your Lightroom Library. Do this by right-clicking on your photo inside your Lightroom Library and navigate to EDIT IN > EDIT IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP.

1 Open Image Photoshop - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #2 – Convert to Black and White

To establish what to edit and where to start with your image, it’s helpful to begin by temporarily removing the distraction of color. This strips back the information and makes it easier for your eyes to clearly see what is going on inside your image. Convert your image to black and white using the Adjustment Layer menu and navigating to Black and White.

BlackandWhite Adjustment Layer -How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Photoshop BlackandWhite Conversion - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #3 – What do you see?

Ensure that you can see the entire image on your screen. At this stage, you’re only taking a high-level look at your image to get an idea of what catches your eye. Navigate to VIEW > FIT ON SCREEN then hold down CMD (Mac) or CTRL (PC) + press the minus key (-) a couple times to zoom out of the image.

While looking at your image ask yourself these questions.

  • What story is the photo trying to tell?
  • Where do your eyes get drawn to first?
  • Where do your eyes go next?
  • What elements enhance the story?
  • Which elements weaken the story?

There’s no need to write an in-depth analysis here. Spend a few seconds on each question and listen to your instincts. What you are trying to do is look at your image from the viewer’s perspective and establish whether or not they are seeing what you want them to see.

Controlling the attention of your viewer’s eye is crucial to a good photo. It’s about leading them on an uninterrupted journey so they can soak up all the goodness of the story within your image.

Have you ever tried to read a book or watch a movie while someone is talking to you? It’s distracting, you disengage from the story and lose focus. The same applies to your eyes when you look at a photo. Eyes are easily distracted and the moment this happens you’ll lose your viewer’s attention and the story breaks down. Eliminating these distractions is key to creating stronger images.

Take a look at your image. As you do so, make a note of the areas, objects, and elements that your eyes are naturally drawn to and settle on. Typically, these areas will be the brightest parts of the image and areas with the most amount of contrast or sharpness. It’s your job to determine whether or not these areas enhance the story or distract the viewer’s attention and therefore weaken the story.

In the next step, we’ll take a look at this example image and establish the distractions so we can create a simple editing plan.

4 Thailand Boat Man Before - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #4 – Creating your plan

Create a new layer and rename it “Notes”. On this layer, you can use the brush tool to mark-up the areas of your image that you want to pay attention to based on your answers from step #3.

5 Photoshop Notes Layer - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

The example image is trying to tell the story of a Thai man taking his boat out on the water for a snorkel while trying to keep cool in the harsh midday sun. However, you may find that your eyes are distracted by the flapping black strap, the rope, and what appears to be a random metal pole protruding into the frame.

Mark any distractions and things to remove or hide

With your notes layer selected, use a brightly colored brush to circle the distractions, adding them to your plan. You can also use the Type tool to clarify your thoughts so you don’t forget what your markups are referring to when you go to edit them later.

6 Remove Distractions - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

7 Reduce Highlight - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Mark elements you want to bring more attention to

Continue to let your eyes explore the image and mark-up the elements that enhance the story. In the example image, you’ll notice that the subject is wearing a nice pair of sunglasses and that his face is a little dark. Drawing the viewer’s attention to this area will most definitely enhance the story.

8 Lighten Face Enhance Shades - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

The example image uses a lot of horizontal leading lines such as the horizon, the edge of the boat, and the canopy. While these are effective at leading your eye across the image towards the subject, you don’t want them to be too effective and allow your viewer’s eyes to continue along those lines and off the image.

A good way to prevent this from happening is to darken the right side of the photo. This will help to control the viewer’s focus by bouncing it back into the frame and onto the subject.

9 Darken Edges - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Another element of this example that could potentially enhance the story is the light source. Adding a sun or lens flare may help to add some interest and balance out any adjustments made to the subject’s face and sunglasses.

10 Add Flare - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

View the image in color again

When you are finished exploring the image and marking-up your notes, it’s a good idea to disable the Black and White adjustment layer you created in step #2 and take a look at the image in full color. As you do so, ask yourself whether the colors you see align and enhance your story or weaken it?

It’s likely that you’ll find one or two additional distractions in the form of color. These might be objects of a particular color that don’t align with the mood of your story or perhaps an overall color cast that you might want to remove or enhance.

In the example image, you can see that disabling the Black and White Adjustment Layer reveals a bright pink object that causes a distraction.

11 Desaturate Pink - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Finally, we can work with the overall color of the image to align with the story. Given that the example image is telling a story about a man trying to keep cool under the hot summer sun, adding a subtle warm-to-cool color tone may help to convey the story and pull the image together.

12 Colour Transition - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

Step #5 – Create a Group

When you are finished making your notes it’s time to group them all together. You can do this by clicking on your Black and White adjustment layer, holding down the SHIFT key on your keyboard and clicking on your NOTES layer (and any other Type layers that you may have created).

13 Shift Click Group - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

With your layers selected, click on the Group icon to put all of your selected layers into a new group. You can then rename the group to “Edit Plan”.

14 Edit Plan Group - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

With your editing plan in place, you can now systematically work your way through the image. If at any point during your edit you begin to feel a little distracted, lost, or overwhelmed, just refer to your editing plan to get right back on track.

Here you can see the example image post-edit with minimal distractions. You may notice that your eye settles on the subject’s face a lot quicker than they did before, and it’s easier to absorb the story without the distracting elements.

Before

Before

15 Thailand Boat Man After - How to Know What to do and Where to Start with Photo Editing in Photoshop

After

Conclusion

Spending just a few minutes marking-up your photos and creating a plan can have enormous results. It tells you what to edit and where to start, and it provides clarity when the editing fog starts to settle in.

Yes, it takes a little more time and perhaps it’s not for every image. But if you want to create something with craftsmanship, something beautiful, something your clients and audience will love – it’s worth every second.

So, I encourage you to spend a little time planning your edits the next time you open up an image in Photoshop. Try to resist the temptation to join the trigger-happy chaos – instead, stop for a minute. Spend twice the time on the preparation, be clear on what you want to achieve, and craft something you’re proud of.

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Sony will start making CFast memory cards: 510MB/s cards coming in 2018

29 Nov

Sony has announced that it will introduce the CFast memory card format to its professional range in the first quarter of next year, and odd and exciting move when you consider that CFast 2.0 competes directly with the XQD card format Sony helped pioneer.

The series will launch with three memory cards that boast maximum read and write speeds of 530MB/s and 510MB/s, respectively. These G-series cards will be aimed at cinematographers and those shooting high bit-rate video, as well as stills photographers working with high frame rate cameras like the Canon 1DX Mark II.

As mentioned above, the cards boast a maximum write speed of 510MB/s, but more importantly they also guarantee a minimum sustained write speed of 130MB/s under the Video Performance Guarantee. This helps to ensure cards do not force cameras to stop recording during lengthy sequences.

And since pros need their cards to be sturdy as well as fast, Sony says the new CFast cards have been carefully tested for drop, vibration, shock resistance and rigidity, and states that they work in a wide range of temperatures and are highly resistant to static.

The cards will be available in 32GB, 64GB and 128GB capacities for $ 120, $ 200, and $ 350, respectively. For more information, read the full release below or visit the Sony website.

Press Release

Sony completes Pro memory card line-up with new CFast range

November 28, 2017 – Sony is launching a range of high performance CFast memory cards, which are designed to meet the needs of professional photographers and videographers. The G Series CFast 2.0 memory cards will be available in 32GB (CAT-G32), 64GB (CAT-G64) and 128GB (CAT-G128) capacities, responding to the ever increasing capabilities of high-end DSLR and 4K cinema-grade broadcast cameras. The cards offer lightning-fast write speeds of up to 510MB/s and read speeds of up to 530MB/s and join an established range of media that includes Professional internal SSDs, XQD and SxS cards, as well as the world’s fastest SD card, while strengthening Sony’s position as a leader in professional memory solutions.

Step up to industry-leading write speeds

Professional photographers demand faster speed for continuous burst shooting of higher resolution images including RAW. With up to 510MB/s write speed, far outperforming the capabilities of existing CFast cards, Sony’s G Series supports high-speed burst shooting of high resolution RAW, maximizing the capability of high-end DSLR cameras like the Canon 1DX Mark 2.

Super-fast read speed for ultra-effective workflow

Efficient workflow is essential for professional photographers and videographers working in challenging environments on tight deadlines. With a blazing fast read speed of 530MB/s, Sony’s G Series CFast dramatically reduces the time it takes to transfer RAW files, long 4K video footage and high-resolution images to a PC.

Reliable 4K video recording with VPG130 support

As well as ultra-fast read and write speeds, the new CFast cards support VPG130 for reliable recording of Cinema-grade or high-bitrate 4K video. A minimum sustained write speed of 130MB/s is guaranteed, making the new media ideal for stable recording of professional grade 4K video, such as Cinema RAW light mode with Canon C200 video cameras.

Designed for strength and reliability

The new CFast cards have passed a variety of stringent drop, vibration, shock and rigidity tests, making them perfect for shooting in many different locations. They work reliably across a wide range of temperatures and are highly resistant to static. With a hard case and Sony File Rescue software, which is available when used with a card reader in a Removable Disk configuration, the cards can recover accidentally deleted photos such as RAW images and videos, allowing professionals to shoot with confidence in the toughest conditions.

Pricing and Availability

Sony’s G Series CFast cards are planned to be available in early 2018 for a suggested retail price of $ 119.99 for 32GB, $ 199.99 for 64GB and $ 349.99 for 128GB.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

19 Nov

I love travel portraits. Not only do they test your photography skills but also challenge you to interact with people in unfamiliar environments. The end result directly reflects your subject’s personality along with your ability to make them feel at ease, read the light, select optimal settings, and compose a great shot.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish:

A boy named Ashim and his father at Dasaswamedh Ghat – Varanasi, India.

Every photographer has a slightly different approach, which evolves with every new person you meet and country you visit. Join me as I walk you through an encounter from start to finish and share tips on how to shoot engaging travel portraits.

1 – Approach the person and get permission

As a photographer, it’s up to you to develop your own code of ethics. However, I implore you to seek permission and not just stick a camera in someone’s face. The initial approach can often be the hardest part; taking the shot is comparatively easy.

Aim for a consensual, mutually enjoyable exchange from which you can both walk away with a happy story to tell. Be open, smile, and pay people compliments.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish:

Boy monks at Rumtek Monastery – Sikkim, India. I kept my camera at my side, introduced myself, and asked their names. Their answers made me regret leaving my notebook in the car (Sikkimese names are notoriously long). They wanted to talk about soccer. When I asked for a photo, the boy on the right jumped and said “I know a good place. Follow me!” It was a fun encounter and their personalities shone through in the pictures because they’d had a chance to chat about their favorite topic.

If it’s a firm no, you can smile warmly, tell them it’s absolutely fine, and ask them if they would like to see photos you’ve taken of the local area. This way, you can both still walk away having had a pleasant experience, and sometimes, they even change their mind.

2 – Communicate for a meaningful experience

Your challenge now is to make your subject feel at ease. The best portraits come when people are relaxed and open to you. Most crucially, don’t rush the photo, say goodbye, and walk away. Show genuine interest in their lives.

Ask questions if you can speak a mutual language. If not, remember that much of your intentions and warmth can be communicated through body language, facial expressions, and gestures.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish:

Ba-An, an 81-year-old lady, in front of the Banaue rice terraces – Luzon, Philippines. I will remember Ba-An because I had the longest and most interesting conversation I’ve had with anyone before taking their portrait. “These? They’re chicken feathers,” she said when I asked about her headdress. “Sometimes I tell people it is tradition, but really, we just started doing it a few years ago!”

3 – Read the light and use it to your advantage

With permission granted and your subject warming to you, the next step is reading the light. Whether it’s day or night, look at the lighting conditions around you. Consider asking your subject to turn their body or move completely to seek the best light.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish:

While waiting for a Hindu ceremony to begin, this gentleman wobbled his head enthusiastically and motioned towards my camera – Varanasi, India. Sometimes, as in this situation, when people see you photographing others in a respectful manner, they may prompt you to take their portrait. I asked him to turn so that the light from a spotlight would be cast across his face at a less harsh angle.

4 – Select your settings

Ideally, you have a fixed focal length (prime) lens with a wide aperture attached to your camera body. However, if you’re traveling, you may have an all-purpose zoom lens attached. I like portraits that I’ve taken with both types.

With my fixed focal lens, I often shoot portraits at f/2.8 or slightly above. If you shoot any wider, the focal plane can be so thin that you risk your subject’s eyes being in focus but having their nose out of focus. For a zoom lens, I recommend selecting your widest aperture but standing further away from your subject. Zooming in on their face will accentuate the shallow depth of field effect that works so well for portraits.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

A Muslim traveler at Haji Ali Dargah, an Islamic shrine off the coast of Mumbai – India. My settings and lens for this portrait were f/2.8 | 1/1600th | ISO 160 | Sigma 35mm 1.4 Art lens. The fast shutter speed allowed by using f/2.8 picked out fine details on the man’s face. Such a fast shutter wasn’t necessary for this level of sharpness but it was an extremely bright day in Mumbai.

For engaging portraits, the most important element requiring sharp focus is the eyes. I suggest setting your camera to spot focus on the center AF point. Next, aim the center point at one of your subject’s eyes. Use the focus and recompose method or even better – the back button focus method to lock in on the eyes. This will ensure they’re in sharp focus in the finished photo.

5 – Choose a strong composition

Numerous compositions can work for portraits. The rule of thirds can work incredibly well but try not to wear it out or all your travel portraits will look the same.

Another one to try is placing one of your subject’s eyes directly in the center of the frame; a study proved that portraits composed this way appeal to viewers on a subconscious level. I promise I’m not making that up. This can be applied in portrait or landscape orientation.

A general rule exists in travel portraiture that you shouldn’t place your subject directly in the center of the frame; however, rules are made to be broken sometimes.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

As I stood taking pictures of the Banaue rice terraces, I heard a frail voice saying “Photo? Who is taking a photo?” It belonged to a 96-year-old woman named Bah Gu-An. She was completely blind. I wasn’t sure how to communicate as I normally would for a portrait so took her hands in mine to let her know I was there. Her friends translated back and forth for us. I decided on a rule of thirds composition because I felt the blue umbrella added extra visual interest and balance to the frame.

6 – Come down to their eye level

Try not to stand above your subject if they are sitting. This is intimidating and works against your goal to relax them. Positive psychological things happen when you come down to someone’s eye level. Take a look at the example below.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

A Hindu holy man on a tiny island in the Brahmaputra River – Assam, India. This is not a touristy location in India so he is the real deal. I sat down on the step to receive a blessing. Accompanied by mystical chanting, I drank some lukewarm tea of unknown provenance, had air blown all over my face, and ash spread across my forehead. We chatted after and I felt in no rush to suggest a portrait. It was a fascinating experience. What do you think when you look at his facial expression – Is the time spent together palpable?

7 – Shoot different styles of portrait

Posed versus candid portraits

Posed refers to approaching a person and asking them to sit for a portrait, whereas candid portraits refer to catching a person in an unguarded moment. This doesn’t have to mean without permission.

For the image below, I’d already gained this lady’s trust and permission but waited until she’d forgotten that I was there to continue shooting. Later, I showed her all of the photos, which she seemed happy with.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

A devotee watches the nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony – Varanasi, India. This image could be called a candid environmental portrait.

Headshot versus environmental portraits

A headshot refers to filling the frame with your subject’s face. The background is not important for setting the scene, although you might consider finding one of a complementary color to your subject’s clothing, skin tone, or eye color. Environmental portraits are zoomed out to allow your subject’s surroundings into the frame to add to their story.

8 – Shoot a series with the same subject

When you have someone’s permission and have bonded with them, consider staying with them a while and shooting a series of images. This is what I did when I met one man in the Philippines recently. I directed him gently for a series of shots after telling him how interested people would be to learn about his culture. He was happy to oblige.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

I would have kicked myself if I’d walked away without getting a side profile shot of this man and his headdress that featured the real heads of a long-dead bird and monkey.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

I decided to fill the frame here to draw attention to his excellent smile, patterned clothes, and monkey headdress.

9 – Always remember aftercare

Aftercare means bringing the encounter to a close in the best possible manner. I believe an extra layer exists as to why the verb is to “take” a portrait. You are taking something from them, but what are you giving in return?

Make sure you show the person their image on the back of your camera, pay them a compliment, and thank them sincerely. So much joy can come from this simple act.

How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish

A man named Ibrahim at the Haji Ali Dargah, Mumbai. As we sat together cross-legged on the ground enthusiastically shaking hands at the side of a busy walkway, I could tell from his reaction and those of passersby that this wasn’t a common occurrence. The overall encounter lingered with me for the rest of the day, and I sincerely hope that Ibrahim remembers it fondly too.

Conclusion

I want to know your best advice for shooting travel portraits and see the images you’re most proud of. Be sure to share them in the comments section below.

The post How to Shoot Engaging Travel Portraits from Start to Finish by Ben McKechnie appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Positano, Italy will start charging $1,150 fee for commercial photography, $2,300 for video

04 Nov
Photo by JeCCo (CC-BY-4.0)

The picturesque seaside Italian city of Positano will soon begin charging photographers a substantial €1,000 (~$ 1,150 USD) fee if they plan to shoot photos for commercial purposes. Videographers, meanwhile, will have to pay €2,000 (~$ 2,300 USD) for commercial work, and Positano authorities are also banning drone use in the city, eliminating aerial projects altogether.

Due to its unique position, Positano attracts a large number of photographers, some working for brands or otherwise capturing content for commercial reasons. According to city mayor Michele De Lucia, per the Italian publication Repubblica, Positano isn’t enacting this fee as a way to make money, but instead to deter the photography sets that can disrupt pedestrians and result in “discomforts and bickering.”

It also lends the city an element of control over who gets to shoot there—”not everyone must be able to tie their own brand to Positano,” explains De Lucia.

Anyone taking photos or recording video for non-commercial purposes is exempt from the fee. The city will also allow photographers and videographers to work in certain circumstances without paying the fee, including for documentaries, TV shows, newspapers, and magazines.

The regulation states that anyone planning to photograph or record will need to submit a request at least 30 days ahead of time to get permission. Requests submitted late will require a 50% surcharge. As far as photography goes, the regulation uses the phrase ‘advertising shooting,’ indicating the fee in primarily targeted at brands and advertising agencies.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Kodak will bring back Ektachrome film this year, start selling it in 2018

13 Sep

Kodak first announced its plans to bring Ektachrome 35mm film back from the dead in January at CES. But if you were worried that the announcement was just a lot of marketing hype, you have nothing to fear: it seems the resurrection of Ektachrome is proceeding apace, with full production scheduled for 2018.

This news broke over Twitter, of all places, thanks to an inquisitive Kodak fan named Karen Wink. She asked Kodak what the ETA on the Ektachrome comeback was, to which Kodak replied:

If you’re a fan of the old film, it won’t be long before you can get your hands on a fresh roll of 36 exposures in the 35mm format.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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