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Posts Tagged ‘Shooting’

Shooting with PolarPro’s six-pack ND filter set for the DJI Osmo Pocket

19 Jun

PolarPro filter 6-pack for the DJI Osmo Pocket
$ 80 | polarprofilters.com

Grand Turk, Turks and Caicos Islands, taken early in the morning using an ND16 filter.

DJI introduced the Osmo Pocket, a three-axis stabilized handheld camera, late last year. The portable device is an ideal tool for content creators and casual consumers. It’s designed for creating decent video clips and photos on the fly. Since I couldn’t bring a drone onboard a recent cruise, I opted to purchase this device to document my journey.

Neutral density (ND) filters are a must-have for anyone aiming to capture smooth, cinematic footage. Selecting the proper one can be tricky, but PolarPro prints out a simple guide on which filter is most appropriate based on weather conditions, including how cloudy or sunny it is outside.

Neutral density (ND) filters are a must-have for anyone aiming to capture smooth, cinematic footage.

More advanced users can access manual settings by connecting their smartphone, accessing the DJI Mimo app and selecting a shutter speed that doubles the frame rate. For example, when applying the 180-degree rule, if I wanted to take advantage of 4K/60fps, I would select a shutter speed of 1/125. One thing to keep in mind is that the Osmo Pocket has a tiny 1/2.3-inch sensor and a fixed F2.0 lens, so you can’t control aperture as an exposure variable.

Captured with the PolarPro ND4 filter.

Since I was going to be in the sun, surrounded by water, most of the time on this cruise, I invested in the Standard Filter Six-pack from PolarPro consisting of PL (fixed polarizer), ND4, ND8, ND16, ND32, and ND64 filters. In addition to the polarizer, the ND filters allow 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, and 1/64 of incoming light to stream into the sensor, respectively. Think of them as sunglasses for your camera.

Selecting the right ND filter slows the shutter for video on the Osmo pocket, and can also add some motion blur to a timelapse for a more dramatic effect. The polarizer enhances colors and reduces reflection and glare on surfaces including water, glass, ice, and snow.

PolarPro’s ND filters snap into place easily.

A compact case houses two rows of three filters, arranged by stop. Each filter was a bit challenging to remove, and the case design could be ergonomically improved. Once out of the bearings, though, the clever magnetic design made it easy to snap the filters on and remove them from the Osmo Pocket’s camera.

Though they come in a sleek compact case, the ND filters can be a bit challenging to remove at times.

I found PolarPro’s filters to be effective at cutting down the glare on water and enhancing hues (polarizer) while also letting me dial in my desired shutter speed for video (NDs). They’re a recommended investment for capturing the highest quality footage possible with the Osmo Pocket and minimizing any post-production efforts.

Below are example photos I shot with different filters from the set, along with the story behind each one, which provide some real world examples of where each is useful.

PolarPro PL (polarizer) ND filter for the Osmo Pocket

About the photo: Walking the colorful streets of San Juan, Puerto Rico, was a highlight of the trip. The sun was completely obscured from this scene, so I opted for the fixed polarizing filter to retain the vivid hues of the buildings.

PolarPro ND4 filter for the Osmo Pocket

About the photo: ND4 filters are recommended for use at dawn or dusk. While sailing along the Atlantic, back toward Florida, this combination of sun setting behind a group of clouds, illuminating an unknown island, and nearby rainstorm caught my attention from the 12th floor deck of the ship.

PolarPro ND8 filter for the Osmo Pocket

About the photo: It was overcast when we visited the only tropical rainforest in the US. The ND8 filter worked great in this situation. (Yokahu Tower in the background.)

PolarPro ND16 filter for the Osmo Pocket

About the photo: When pulling into Puerto Rico, everyone pulled out their cameras to capture Castillo San Felipe del Morro – one of the most impressive historical attractions in the Caribbean. As it was 10:00 am, local time, an ND16 filter was enough for a mostly sunny scene.

PolarPro ND32 filter for the Osmo Pocket

About the photo: A partially-cloudy day, on a tropical resort island in the Bahamas, still calls for the second most powerful filter in the kit.

PolarPro ND64 filter for the Osmo Pocket

About the photo: There were few clouds in the sky at Trunk Cay, a small resort beach located in the Virgin Islands. Since the noon sunlight was bearing down, I used the ND64 to eliminate glare and capture the contrasting dark blue and turquoise patterns in the bay.

Wrap-up

The DJI Osmo Pocket is a fantastic camera that’s great for capturing photos and videos while you travel, but PolarPro’s standard 6-pack of filters is a valuable addition. As one would expect, the fixed polarizer can make your photos pop thanks to improved contrast, increased saturation, and reduced glare, and unlike screw-in filters it fits perfectly on the Osmo Pocket.

Additionally, the selection of ND filters make it possible to capture more natural looking video when used to dial in the appropriate shutter speed on the camera – something that’s particularly useful given that the Osmo Pocket’s aperture is locked at F2.0, eliminating the option to use aperture to adjust exposure.

Overall, I found the PolarPro filters to be a great addition to my Osmo Pocket. This 6-pack of filters should definitely be on your list if you want to get the most out of DJI’s pint-sized camera.

What we liked

  • Useful range of filters
  • Magnetic design makes it easy to attach and remove filters
  • Good optical quality

What we’d like to see improved

  • Filters can be a bit difficult to remove from case

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Managing Your Photography Process From Shooting to Editing

17 Jun

The post Managing Your Photography Process From Shooting to Editing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.

You spend a lot of time learning about your gear and how to use it to produce great images.  You also invest time and money into learning to improve your technique for capturing and processing your work. It is therefore fair to say that developing a consistent workflow in handling your images after (and sometimes before) they are captured is also of importance. Here are a few steps you should be taking to help you manage your photography work.

Before you shoot

1. Make a plan

What are you going to shoot today? Is it an event in a dimly lit place or is it in the middle of a sunny day and outdoors? What will be your source(s) of light? What gear will you need?

Prepare by planning for your subject and thinking through your shoot. That way you can think of possible outcomes and pack accordingly (and in some cases avoid overpacking). Weather conditions, time on your feet, length of your trek/journey and environmental constraints will also help you determine if you need to scale down your gear to the essentials or rethink how/what you pack.

2. Set up your camera

If you are used to shooting the same genre of images, you may have your settings already dialed in. This takes into consideration the creation of presets to handle different scenarios that you face. Keep a reminder to adjust your white balance for the type of light you will be shooting in. Will you need a flash or supplemental lighting and what settings will you need when you add those?

Do you want to shoot your images in RAW or JPEG? Both have their advantages and disadvantages and you need to choose what works well for your planned shoot and expected outcome.

After you shoot

1. Moving images from your card as soon as possible

A good practice is moving the images from your memory card to your computer as soon as possible. A card reader transfers images faster than using a direct connection from your camera to your computer. While recent computer card slots are comparable to card readers in speed, there is still a preference to the latter.  One school of thought is that a good quality card reader is built to minimize the chance of corrupting your memory cards.

While the objective is to move the images, it is advisable to copy the images across (as opposed to move). After you copy, compare the number of files on the memory card (and size) to what was copied. This is especially important if there was an interruption during the copy process.

Note: If you choose to move instead of copy, this comparison will not be possible. More importantly, there is a higher probability of loss or corrupted files, if there is an interruption during the move process.

2. Making a backup

Prepare for the failure of your devices. Having more than one copy of your image gives you some peace of mind that it is safe somewhere. There are many backup combinations you can use, but the most basic is to have two copies of your images. You can have a copy on your laptop/computer and one on an external drive. You can save on more than one external drive or even go with an external drive/cloud combination. An ideal backup strategy involves two copies where you have one offsite (off premises/cloud).

An essential part of having a backup is testing it from time to time to ensure that it works and can restore your images when needed.

Backup processes can be revised as your workflow progresses. For example, after a shoot, you can copy all of your images to a secondary place. After you have culled your final selection, you can replace those images with your selection. When you edit and find your best images, you can add this to your library later. Whatever system you choose to work with, they all require a level of organization.

3. Clearing your memory cards

A good rule to adopt is to clear your memory cards after you have backed up your files to two locations. In each instance, copy from the memory cards directly. After your copy, compare what was copied to the number of files (and size) of those on the memory card. This is especially important if there was an interruption during the copy process.

4. Using management software to browse your images/cull your images

A digital asset management software system is a great way to browse, preview, locate and rate your images and mark them for processing. Two of the most used asset management systems are Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Bridge. There are a few others that work similar to these, with a primary focus on browsing and rating images.

Most people do not take advantage of the rating ability of asset management software, but it is quite a useful tool to cull your work. When you browse your images, you give the highest ratings to your best images – those to keep, review or edit. The next rating is for those with potential and worth a second look. You award the lowest rating or no rating to images that do not make the cut. These would include blurry images, those that are not salvageable or ones you will never review/edit. These can be marked for discarding at a later time (when space becomes an issue) or immediately (if that is how you streamline your work).

5. Post-processing images

Many times post-processing immediately follows shooting and nothing is wrong with that. Once you develop a workflow that suits you, then there are no rules as to when to do what. Whenever you post-process, remember that your edited images need to be saved in several locations (especially if they are for a client). Saving your final images with a descriptive name/date in a sub-folder will help you easily find them later on.

Note: Post-processing also can be broken down into its own workflow, which includes processing multiple images at a time (batch processing).

Conclusion

Your images are worth protecting, thus developing a habitual photography workflow is important. Find a way that works for you, keeping in mind that you will be thankful for spending the time on a proper backup strategy.

Finally, create with the assurance that your work is organized and managed from capture to delivery.

Do you have any other tips to add here? Please share in the comments below.

 

The post Managing Your Photography Process From Shooting to Editing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.


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DPReview TV: Shooting with the Fujifilm 200mm F2 in Japan

13 Jun

While on assignment in Japan, Chris and Jordan had a couple days to shoot with the Fujifilm XF 200mm F2 telephoto lens, which Chris nicknamed ‘The Big White Sharp’. To make things more interesting, Jordan filmed this entire episode using the new Fujifilm GFX 100 medium format camera.

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  • Introduction
  • Greetings from Japan
  • Samples
  • Design and handling
  • Sharpness
  • Autofocus
  • Video performance
  • Who's it for?
  • Wrap-up

Sample gallery from this episode:

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_5715796182″,”galleryId”:”5715796182″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });
Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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An Easy Hack for Shooting into the Sun and Processing the Images

02 Jun

The post An Easy Hack for Shooting into the Sun and Processing the Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

Whether you’re shooting landscapes, street photography, outdoor portraits, or just making a photo of your cat lounging in the window, a great many photos have one thing in common – sunlight. Yes, that big burning ball of fire in the sky can either ruin your photos or make them memorable. Some photographers enjoy the look of the sun shining brightly in the sky with radiant starbursts and flare while others do not. However you happen to feel about it, you will often find it necessary to shoot directly into bright sunlight.

shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-1

I’m going to show you an easy way to deal with the invasive (yet often rewarding) circumstances of making a photograph when the sun is burning bright directly towards your camera. All this is done without the need for filters and is easily accomplished with some simple work in Photoshop.

Warning: Remember friends, the techniques shown here are intended to help you work in conditions faced when shooting into the sun as it relates to commonly encountered photographic conditions. Prolonged exposures aimed at the sun may damage your camera and purposefully staring directly into the sun will permanently damage your eyes. 

Shooting your images

First things first. You will need at least two photos of the same scene but shot with different exposures. Keep in mind that two photos are the MINIMUM required; one for the foreground elements and one for the desired brightness of the sun. Depending on the complexity and contrast of your scene, it is a good idea (as I’ve done here) to have additional exposures to help your final image look realistic.

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-3

If you prefer a prominent “starburst” effect for the sun, it’s a good idea to use a relatively small aperture (large f-number) for at least one of your images. Since we’ll be blending multiple photos together, it is crucial that each of them align as closely as possible. So, of course, using a stable tripod is integral to the outcome of your photograph. I know, I know…you’ve heard it a thousand times.

Try this cool trick

Before we move on to how to actually blend our images together, I want to tell you about an incredibly neat trick to help you reduce lens flare and get a much cleaner result when shooting directly towards the sun. You might have noticed one of my images has a big fat thumb right in the middle of the frame? This is not by accident.

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

What this allows us to do is block out the most direct light rays so that we have a good spot to blend in the sun from our drastically underexposed photo. Not only that, but it helps to greatly reduce (not always eliminate) the lens flare artifacts which commonly rear their head in these types of photos. It will all make sense in just a second.

Combining the images

As I’m sure you’ve already noticed, the actual acquisition of the photos you need is a very simple operation. The magic lies in how we handle those images in Photoshop. We can bring our images directly into Photoshop, or as I prefer, work with them first in Lightroom and then kick them over to Photoshop as layers. This saves time and makes things much easier, especially if working in Photoshop is new to you. Make sure you don’t crop any of the photos!

Open images as Layers in Photoshop

To open up your images as layers in Photoshop from Lightroom, make sure all of your photos are selected and then right-click on any images. Select ‘Edit In’ and then choose ‘Open as Layers in Photoshop.’

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-3

Once Photoshop launches, you will see all of your photos presented as layers in the Layers Panel.

Arrange the layers by dragging and dropping them into place. Sort the layers where the sun blocked with your thumb at the top. Proceed downward by order of decreased brightness with the darkest image at the very bottom.

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-3

Auto-Align Layers

Even though we’ve done our best to make sure all of our photos are composed identically, it’s a good practice to allow Photoshop to help out with aligning the layers. That way, they fit as closely as possible to avoid misalignment. Doing this is a snap (Photoshop humor) using ‘Auto-Align Layers.’ Make sure all of your layers are selected either by Ctl+click or Cmd+click (Mac).

If you have a large number of layers, a quicker way to select them all would be to highlight the top layer and then Shift+click the bottom layer (or vice versa). Once all your layers are selected, select ‘Edit’ and then ‘Auto-Align Layers.’

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-3

Leave the alignment projection set to ‘Auto.’

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-3

After Photoshop is finished cooking up those layers into better alignment, you might notice a small perimeter border around your image. This is due to Photoshop aligning the layers. Don’t worry; you can crop it out later.

Add Layer Masks

You’ll need to incorporate layer masks so that you can paint in and out our layers as you go. Select each layer and add a mask by clicking the layer mask icon. There’s no need to apply a mask to the bottom-most layer in the stack.

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch-3

For a refresher course on working with layer masks check out this article by Jim Hamel.

Blend the Layers

Now that we have masks added to all of our layers, it’s time to start blending. We’ll start with the sky and remove the obvious digit from the photo. Since the layer mask is set to white, make sure you are painting with black. If you get confused, remember the old adage “black conceals, white reveals.”

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

Even working with this small number of layer masks can get somewhat unwieldy. I recommend you merge each layer with the next after you’ve finished blending each portion of your photo.

To merge your completed layers, simply highlight them and use keyboard shortcut Ctl+E (Cmd+E for Mac). This helps avoid any conflicts with your masking. Blend your layers as needed based on your particular photos.

After each layer merge, be sure to add a layer mask to the resulting layer.

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Eventually, you should have two layers remaining.

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

It’s here where things can get a little tricky because you will likely be dealing with blending your starbursts with a darker surrounding sky. Just take your time. It’s a good idea to set your brush to a low flow rate of 10-15 and your opacity to around 15 to start. Then gradually build up the effect. A soft brush is definitely required here.

And ta-dah!

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

With just a little bit of blending, we’ve successfully combined our four images of the sunset. Before leaving Photoshop, I went ahead and removed those few flakes of dust as well as the remaining lens flare artifacts that managed to escape my thumb. After you save your changes and close Photoshop, the newly blended photo will be thrown back to Lightroom for cropping and some final tweaking.

Lightroom-Photoshop-shooting-into-the-sun-digital-photography-school-adam-welch

Some final words on overcoming the sun…

There are multiple ways to work around shooting directly into the sun to get great photos. Most involve various filters and careful positioning.

With a little basic knowledge of Photoshop, you can forgo the extra equipment and achieve results which are arguably as good or better than more traditional photographic methods.

This is especially helpful if you happen to be using a camera that sports less than spectacular dynamic range. Sure, you shouldn’t view this technique as a replacement for practicing solid photography techniques, but instead, it provides a way for us to easily bring home the photo we want at the end of the day.

Not too comfortable with Photoshop? We’ve got you covered!

Make sure to check out some of the great resources here at Digital Photography School which will teach you all you could ever wish to know about working with layers, blend modes and masking in Photoshop.

We’d love to see the images you create from this tutorial. Please share with us and the dPS community in the comments below!

 

The post An Easy Hack for Shooting into the Sun and Processing the Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Birth of the Renaissance: Shooting with the Fujifilm GFX 100 in Florence, Italy

25 May

All of the images in this article were shot with a pre-production Fujifilm GFX 100 and are used with permission. Image quality may not represent exactly the output from final shipping cameras but is likely to be extremely close. Likewise, images of the camera may show minor cosmetic differences compared to final shipping units.


It’s exceedingly rare that I get to feel cool, especially at work. But every now and then an opportunity arises to do something, go somewhere or see something that makes me pinch myself. Just such an opportunity came up recently, when I spent a week shooting with a pre-production sample of Fujifilm’s new GFX 100 in Florence, Italy – the birthplace of the Renaissance.

I’ve been fascinated by the GFX 100 since we got a sneak peek of the camera still under development, earlier this year. And 18 year-old me loved the few days I spent in Florence in 2000, the summer before I went off to waste British taxpayers’ money for four years at university. Nineteen years on, could I recreate the sights and sounds of that heady teenage summer? Unlikely. And probably for the best. But at least this time I wouldn’t have to carry around a bag full of 35mm film.

The camera I was shooting with in Italy would have blown my teenage brain (admittedly not a difficult thing to do). Officially a beta test sample, Fujifilm handed over a pre-production GFX 100, running non-final firmware.

During shooting I did indeed experience occasional glitches, and some aspects of the camera’s performance and operation were very obviously unfinished. As such, this is not going to be a detailed, review-style write up of my experience. It can’t be. So given all of these caveats, what can I actually say about the camera?

Well: It sure does smell nice! Congratulations – you just read the shortest ever shooting experience article on DPReview.

Proud parents rejoice: Finally, a 100MP medium format camera that’s fast and responsive enough for quick grab shots of a toddler. With face and eye-detection and PDAF, the GFX 100 is a powerful portrait camera in autofocus mode.

ISO 160 | 1/320 sec | F2.8 | 45mm F2.8

If you’re still reading this, you either figured out I was joking, or you’re predisposed not to believe what you read on the Internet. Either way, thanks for sticking around.

There’s actually quite a lot I can say about shooting with the GFX 100, predictable pre-production bugs and glitches notwithstanding. Ironically, perhaps my biggest takeaway from using it for a week was just how finished this supposedly unfinished camera felt. In almost all important respects, the prototype GFX 100 camera I was using just worked. It worked so well in fact, and so intuitively, that within a few hours I wasn’t paralyzed by worry over the enormous responsibility of chaperoning a hand-built, embargoed, prototype camera around a foreign country. I was just enjoying the experience of shooting with it. And the pizza. I really enjoyed the pizza.

With its EVF attached, the GFX 100 actually has almost exactly the same ‘footprint’ as a Nikon D5

Compared to the GFX 50S and 50R, the GFX 100 offers a handling and shooting experience that is largely familiar, but in some ways quite different. The most obvious difference is that it’s a lot bigger than either camera. The integrated vertical grip accepts two batteries, and increases the size of the body to roughly that of a professional DSLR. With its EVF attached, the GFX 100 actually has almost exactly the same ‘footprint’ and weighs about the same as a Nikon D5, although of course its mass is distributed within a slightly different form factor. With the EVF removed, the GFX 100 is actually much easier to pack into a bag or hard case than a D5 or Canon EOS-1D X II, since it basically becomes a square slab.

The GFX 100’s EVF is removable, at which point the camera becomes much easier to pack into a bag or case for storage.

The second major difference compared to earlier GFX models is that Fujifilm has ditched the consciously retro styling of the older cameras in favor of a somewhat more severe, push button and dial-driven interface of the kind pioneered back in the 80s by Canon in the T90 and EOS-1 series SLRs.

Much as I respect Fujifilm’s tendency to put big chunky dials on many of their cameras from an aesthetic point of view, I don’t tend to use them in practice. Come to think of it, I haven’t used a shutter speed dial on a multi-mode camera since the Nikon F4. Since these days I tend to shoot using automatic ISO, that dial stays locked to ‘A’, too. I appreciate a physical dial for exposure compensation, but I can live without it.

It’s harder to unintentionally press a button and simultaneously scroll a command dial than it is to knock a dedicated dial out of position

As such, I have no problem with the GFX 100’s more button-driven interface, and in fact in a camera like this I tend to prefer it. When it comes to preventing accidental setting changes, it’s much harder to unintentionally press a button and simultaneously scroll a command dial than it is to knock a dedicated dial out of position against your hip, or when moving the camera in and out of a bag.

A lot of people seem unkeen on how the GFX 100 looks but I actually quite like it. Yes, it resembles an overgrown games console from the early 90s, and the blueish gray finish is very different to any other camera on the market, but it works, and hell, at least it’s different.

The rear screen is partially articulated, which is nice. But the ‘Q’ buttons on the two handgrips are very prone to be accidentally bumped. Here you can also see the lack of rubber coating on the vertical grip.

There are only three aspects of the GFX 100’s handling and operation which I feel could use some work. For starters, the exposure compensation buttons (one on the top plate, one on the vertical grip) are ergonomically different to one another, and both proved rather hard to locate when my eye was to the camera’s EVF. I fully expect that in final shipping cameras, it will be possible to repurpose the rear command dial for ‘quick exposure compensation’ in AE modes, and on that assumption, the exposure comp. button issue isn’t a show-stopper.

Harder to work around is the Q button – especially the one on the vertical grip – which I managed to constantly press by accident when I was handling the camera in preparation to bring it up to my eye. This is pretty much the same issue that has been widely reported with the X-T30, and to Fujifilm’s credit, a firmware update was swiftly issued to address the problem. My final gripe is a fairly minor one – I do wish that the vertical grip was a bit more contoured, and in contrast to the pleasantly textured rubber on the main grip, the bare metal can get a bit slippery after extended handling.

In pretty much every other respect the GFX 100 works very well. If you’ve used the X-T3 or one of its various stablemates, you’ll feel right at home. Even if you’re coming from a DSLR or mirrorless ILC from another manufacturer, the learning curve should be pretty shallow.

This image was shot during the 1/60sec interval in mid-May of this year during which there were no American tourists visible in Florence.

ISO 200 | 1/60 sec | F11 | 45mm F2.8

That’s the externals dealt with, but the real appeal of the GFX 100 lies less in what it looks like, and more in what it can do. And oh boy, it can do a lot. I’ve shot with the GFX 50S quite a bit, and I really enjoy using it, but even if I was a working commercial photographer I would probably never buy one. Files from the 50S are great, but they’re not technically better than the output of the best full-frame DSLRs and mirrorless ILCs. Meanwhile, the 50S’s autofocus performance and viewfinder experience – while usable – compare poorly to competitive full-frame and APS-C cameras. The GFX 50S and 50R are fantastic cameras, no doubt, but not fantastically better than the smaller and lighter alternatives I have at my disposal.

Reading through the spec sheet of the GFX 100, you get the sense that Fujifilm’s engineers were showing off

The GFX 100, on the other hand, blows the 50S and 50R out of the water. The viewfinder is sharper and clearer, the autofocus performance has been hugely improved (Fujifilm claims a more than 200% speed boost compared to the previous GFX models) and in every respect the camera just feels faster and more responsive. Not to mention the fact that it includes sensor-based image stabilization, and powerful 4K video features. In fact, reading through the official spec sheet of the GFX 100, you get the sense that beyond a certain point Fujifilm’s engineers were simply showing off – and who can blame them.

The detail in JPEG files from the Fujifilm GFX 100 is extraordinary, and we’re eagerly awaiting Raw support to really see what those pixels can do.

ISO 640 | 1/160 sec | F10 | 100-200mm F5.6

The fundamentally Big Deal here is that the GFX 100 is the first medium format digital camera to really compete with modern full-frame DSLR or mirrorless ILCs in terms of everyday shooting versatility. Obviously it’s not designed for shooting sports or action, but for portraiture, landscapes, travel and street photography, virtually the only thing that the GFX 100 can’t do is fit into a pocket.

We’re talking here about a 100MP hybrid stills / video camera with usable (in fact very good) autofocus that isn’t intended primarily for use in a studio. And for the first time, thanks to a new back-illuminated CMOS sensor, the GFX 100 should be able to deliver images that are not only bigger than contemporary full-frame cameras, but better. We’re still waiting to dig into the Raw files, but we’re expecting an increase in Raw dynamic range over both the GFX 50S and Nikon D850 at ISO 64.

Smaller sensor formats will probably always win in terms of ultimate versatility (the GFX 100’s sensor readout isn’t fast enough to match the silent shutter shooting abilities of, say, the Nikon Z7, but the GFX 100 gets impressively close. Taking a series of portraits in rapid succession (continuous shooting maxes out at 5 fps in 14-bit Raw mode) with face and eye-detection turned on, I kept forgetting I was shooting medium format.

All of those pixels are lovely, but they don’t come cheap. This JPEG file is 62MB in size, and 14 and 16-bit Raw files are even bigger. This could be a major consideration when it comes to file management and archiving.

ISO 160 | 1/220 sec | F11 | 45mm F2.8

Until I started to download the files, of course. One of the downsides of the GFX 100’s impressive operational speed is that you might find yourself burning through card space rather more quickly than you had anticipated. And with even JPEGs ranging between 30-70MB each, file management on a computer can be a frustrating experience. I wasn’t able to try out the 16-bit Raw mode with the camera we used in Italy, but with those files likely in the hundreds of megabytes each, 16-bit file storage could quickly become a headache.

The GFX 100 now offers phase-detection autofocus, covering almost 100% of the frame

While I don’t want to (and can’t) get into too much detail around specifics, I imagine you’d like to know how well things like autofocus, IBIS and video work on the GFX 100. The short answer in all cases is ‘very well, thanks for asking’. The GFX 100 now offers phase-detection autofocus, covering almost 100% of the frame. AF speed is still to some extent lens dependent (as we’d expect), but on a fast GF lens, like the 23mm F4, focus is acquired very quickly in AF-S mode, with no hunting in normal lighting conditions. I didn’t get the chance to test AF-C performance in any real depth, but I can say that it’s much improved over the GFX 50S/R, as we’d expect from a PDAF system.

The in-body stabilization system is rated according to Fujifilm for up to 5.5EV. In my shooting I didn’t see that kind of performance consistently, but I was able to shoot confidently down to at least 1/10 sec with the 45mm F2.8 prime attached, which allowed me to shoot in lower light and after a couple more glasses of Chianti than I could have done otherwise. Stabilization also gives you the option of introducing movement into images from (say) flowing water or traffic without the need to resort to a tripod.

This shot was taken hand-held using the GF 45mm F2.8 at 1/5sec. While very slight blurring is visible at 100%, the GFX 100’s in-body stabilization system has delivered an acceptably sharp image at well below 1/FL. The IBIS system greatly adds to the camera’s versatility in poor light.

ISO 800 | 1/5 sec | F5.6 | 45mm F2.8

While I was mostly focusing on stills, i did shoot some 4K video with the GFX 100 in Italy, and at its maximum 24p bitrate, footage looks incredibly detailed, with almost no noticeable noise even at ISO 3200. It almost seems surreal to be discussing 4K video shooting with a medium format camera, but video is far from an afterthought in the GFX 100’s feature set, and we’re looking forward to digging into this feature more when we get hold of a final camera.

For now, as you can probably tell, I’m very impressed. Obviously though, the GFX 100 isn’t for everyone. If you’re asking yourself ‘do I need 100MP?’ then the answer is almost certainly ‘no, you don’t – get off the Internet and go and play in the sunshine’. To be honest, I think photographers would be well-advised not to drop $ 10,000 on any camera unless they expect it to make some money back for them.

But if I was a commercial photographer or a professional wedding / portrait shooter, I would seriously consider the GFX 100, despite the substantial initial cost. It offers greater resolution and almost certainly better Raw image quality than any full-frame camera on the market, with none of the limitations or frustrations of previous medium format models. Add in-body stabilization, fast and effective autofocus and a human-friendly interface into the mix (and lest we forget, really good 4K video) and $ 10,000 doesn’t look unreasonable.


Fujifilm GFX 100 pre-production sample images

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Demon of the Deep: Shooting Kawah Ijen Volcano

18 May

A few weeks ago I returned from a fantastic trip to South East Asia. After 13 years without setting foot there (a bit of a frightening number – the last time was before I ever held a DSLR!), I was getting a serious itch that had to be scratched. I was craving the feel of Asia, its food, wildlife and landscapes. When I found the right partner to join me, I jumped on the opportunity and booked my flights.

While this wasn’t purely a shooting trip (I also spent time in Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong without shooting), two weeks of it were shooting-oriented. I spent a week photographing orangutans in Northern Sumatra, but the experience I want to share here is shooting the well-known East Java volcano of Kawah Ijen.

Kawah Ijen (Ijen crater) was one of the icons I had long wanted to visit and shoot. As a volcano enthusiast and keen shooter, there was no chance I was going to pass on this special place.

Part of a larger group of composite volcanoes located in the far east of the island of Java, it is one of the main attractions of the island and draws much tourism. Ijen is extremely photogenic and tells several stories worth exploring. It’s also the site of intensive sulfur mining, wherein miners extract elemental sulfur solidified from gases bursting out of an active vent in the crater. The miners then carry the sulfur by hand in baskets that can weigh up to 90kg (about 200lb), up to the crater rim and 3km / 1.9mi down the mountain up to a weighing station, where they get paid for the load.

An 80 kg load of sulfur inside Ijen’s crater

While the miners’ story is indeed fascinating (and controversial due to the health hazards, even though the work is comparatively well paid), I’m a nature photographer, and I came to shoot the natural features of the volcano. Ijen is very well known for the colors of the ignited sulfuric gasses in the mined vent, and also for the turquoise color of its crater lake. I spent two days hiking up the volcano and shooting it, and I’d like to share the experience.

A aerial view of Kawah Ijen. Vertical panorama from 2 shot, taken with DJI Mavic II Pro. The panorama allowed me to capture the entirety of the lake as my foreground, creating a better framing. Shot using a circular polarizer kindly supplied by Polar Pro.

While not very difficult, hiking Ijen is quite physical. To get to the crater in time and maximize your photography, you need to start the journey at about midnight. This gives you time to locate a porter should you need one (I suffer from minor shoulder and knee problems and so was happy to support the local economy and hire a porter to carry my heavy photo bag), and be ready for the opening of the gate at 1 a.m. – and you had better be early rather than late. On the first hike I headed up at 2:30 a.m., the and trail was jam packed with tourists, which made it much harder to hike in my own pace. I didn’t make the same mistake again the second time around.

A look to the vent from the crater rim. The converging gas clouds are an important compositional element here.

The hike up to the crater rim took me 1.5 hours the first night, when I was tired from the travel and had to make my way through other hikers. The second time, without anybody hiking beside me other than my travel partner, guide and porters, I was well rested and Red-Bulled, and made the way up in less than an hour. Once up the crater rim, a trail goes down to the mining vent, and hiking it also depends highly on how many people are there. A good estimate would be 45 minutes with people around, half an hour without if you’re early.

Going down into the crater is more technical than going up and one should be very careful when doing it. In general, remember to always do the hike with a certified guide, as an experienced guide will make sure you stay safe and protected from the elements, especially when smoke gets thick inside the crater.

The crater can fill up to the brim with noxious gasses.

Near the end of the hike up, I had to put my respirator on. The sulfur smell was getting overwhelming, and I knew it was time to protect myself against the noxious gasses. Soon after starting the hike down to the vent, I felt the sting in my eyes telling me to put my goggles on. Both respirator and goggles were absolutely essential to be able to function when inside the crater. Closer to the vent, even they were not enough to prevent me from tearing when the wind carried the sulfuric gasses my way.

Yours truly with full Ijen gear. Not even the goggles prevented me from tearing up when the wind swept the sulfuric gasses toward me.

So there I was, in the dead of night, watching the purple fire of ignited sulfuric gasses. This was astonishing to behold, but quite challenging to capture. As you might imagine, shooting at night required high ISO, and in order to get any detail in the fire, an ISO of at least 3200 was needed. I ended up using ISO 6400 most of the time.

Focusing was also very difficult. Naturally I had to focus manually, as usual by enlarging part of the image on live-view and turning the focus ring to get good sharpness, but the fire is so dynamic, and so often covered by smoke, that it took me several minutes to be able to focus. The goggles filling up with water from my breath sure didn’t help.

Thick smoke covers part of the fire, resulting in an interesting shot. Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS. ISO6400, f/4.5, 88mm, 1/3 sec.

Negative space is an important tool in images like this one – the darkness surrounding the purple fire conveys the atmosphere around the vent: a mysterious and sometimes frightening place where noxious smoke can engulf you before you know it.

Once I got my focusing sorted out, it was time to compose. Composing a rapidly-changing fire that is covered by smoke 90% of the time and ruined by the flash of other people’s cellphone cameras 80% of the remaining time was frustrating. I found myself struggling through my tears just to find some sort of balance. Two nights of shooting the fire only yielded 2-3 good shots. While indeed I didn’t need more than that for my portfolio, I wish it had been an easier ordeal and that I had gotten a bigger selection.

Purple fire in Kawah Ijen.
Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS
ISO6400, f/5.6, 300mm, 1/4 sec
Note the diagonal lines and the two main centers of compositional mass in the top right and in the bottom left, balancing each other.

After shooting the fiery vent I headed back up to the crater rim for sunrise. Ijen boasts a 1-km wide crater lake, which is recognized for being the largest highly acidic crater lake in the world. The lake’s colors are truly beautiful: an almost-unnatural turquoise lined with yellow streaks of sulfur.

Ijen’s beautiful turquoise acidic waters decorated by sulfur streaks, covered by a thick layer of morning fog and sulfuric gases from the volcano’s vents.

While simple in composition, the image is enriched by the lake’s contrasting colors and the light on the fog. The circular polarizer I used (made by Polar Pro) enhanced the saturation, eliminating reflections.

While it is possible to shoot the lake from the crater rim, I found that using a drone was much more productive, and allowed me to include the entire crater in the image, in addition to the several other volcanoes around Ijen.

I had some fun trying abstract photography with the drone, as I flew it close to the crater lake. Especially nice was flying the drone through the sulfuric gasses, which create an eerie haze. Aerials can also reveal another visually interesting element of the area: the contrast between the toxic environment inside Ijen and the lush forests around it.

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Kawah Ijen didn’t disappoint; I highly recommend traveling there and witnessing it for yourself. Whether shooting the miners or nature, from the ground or from the air, it holds a special kind of beauty and tons of photographic potential. Just make sure you have a good guide, and a respirator and goggles at hand.


Erez Marom is a professional nature photographer, photography guide and traveler based in Israel. You can follow Erez’s work on Instagram and Facebook, and subscribe to his mailing list for updates.

If you’d like to experience and shoot some of the most fascinating landscapes on earth with Erez as your guide, take a look at his unique photography workshops in The Lofoten Islands, Greenland, Namibia, the Faroe Islands, Israel and Ethiopia.

Erez offers video tutorials discussing his images and explaining how he achieved them.

Selected Articles by Erez Marom:

  • Parallelism in Landscape Photography
  • Winds of Change: Shooting changing landscapes
  • Behind the Shot: Dark Matter
  • On the Importance of Naming Images
  • On Causality in Landscape Photography
  • Shooting K?lauea Volcano, Part 1: How to melt a drone
  • The Art of the Unforeground
  • Whatever it Doesn’t Take
  • Almost human: photographing critically endangered mountain gorillas

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Olympus E-M1X vs Nikon D5: shooting tennis

26 Apr
Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 320 | 1/4000 sec | F4 | Shot using the Olympus 300mm F4

The Olympus E-M1X sits in a curious spot in the market: it’s got the speed, rugged build-quality and dual-grip design of a full-frame Nikon D5 or a Canon EOS-1D X II, but sports a smaller Four Thirds chip. The smaller sensor is reflected in a smaller price tag; at $ 3000, it’s half the price of the D5 and $ 2500 less than the 1D X II. That’s a lot of savings that could be put toward high quality glass. But the D5 and 1D X II are sports cameras with long lineages, whereas the E-M1X is Olympus’ first crack at a truly sports-oriented camera. So can it compete? To find out we pitted it against the D5 at a University of Washington tennis match.

The D5 and 1D X II are sports cameras with long lineages, the E-M1X is Olympus’ first crack at a truly sports-oriented body – can it compete?

Tennis is a sport for which a good viewfinder experience, fast/reliable autofocus and a quick burst rate with plenty of buffer depth are important for success. It’s also a sport for which I’ve found Nikon’s 3D Tracking to be particularly useful. Having had a lot of success shooting tennis with a D5, I was eager to get behind the E-M1X and see how it compared.

Burst Speed

Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 320 | 1/4000 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Olympus 40-150mm F2.8 lens at 95mm equiv.

There’s a lot of nuance to nailing a perfect tennis photo: the ideal frame is often the split second after or before the ball touches the strings of an athlete’s racket. Tennis rackets swing at between 110-140kph (70-85mph) and more frames means better odds of getting the the shot. With this in mind, the E-M1X’s 18 fps gave a noticeable advantage over the Nikon’s 12 fps rate (top bursts with AF).

And if you’re OK with focus being locked on the first frame, the E-M1X can shoot up to a whopping 60 fps. There’s a catch though: both the 18 fps and 60 fps options are using the electronic shutter, which can be susceptible to banding under artificial lights (like a gym) and rolling shutter. Fortunately these issues can be mostly avoided by using the mechanical shutter, you’ll just have to settle for 10 fps with AF. Ultimately I decided the benefits of the faster 18 fps rate outweighed my desire to avoid rolling shutter (which ended up having a minimal impact).

While the Olympus had the speed advantage, nothing for me beats the ‘kurchunk’ of the D5’s beefy shutter.

While the Olympus had the speed advantage, it was a tie for buffer depth: despite shooting Raw+JPEG on both cameras, I never hit a point where either slowed down. That said, when it came to the adrenaline rush of firing off a fast burst of images, nothing for me beats the ‘kurchunk’ of the D5’s beefy shutter mechanism.

Viewfinder experience

Shot on the Nikon D5. Out-of-camera JPEG cropped in post.
ISO 100 | 1/2500 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Nikon 70-200 F2.8 at 200mm

Electronic viewfinders on mirrorless cameras keep improving and despite the E-M1X’s somewhat modest EVF resolution (2.36M-dot compared to 5.76M-dot on the latest mirrorless cameras) and low contrast (it uses LCD instead of OLED display technology) the experience of using it to capture fast action is excellent.

Whether shooting 10 fps in mechanical or 18 fps in e-shutter, black-out times are minimal. And there’s no noticeable resolution drop or slowdown in refresh rate when AF is engaged to distract your eyes from the action. This isn’t the case for lots of other mirrorless cameras.

However, for serious sports shooters who operate with both eyes open, the D5’s large optical finder (with very short blackout times) still provides a better viewfinder experience, in my opinion. It’s possible to shoot the Olympus with both eyes open, but I found it to be rather jarring. This is because the limited brightness and contrast of the EVF means what you see in your EVF eye never quite agrees with what you see with your real-world-viewing eye.

So when it comes to the viewfinder experience, the E-M1X impresses for a mirrorless camera, but the D5 still has it beat.

Autofocus

Shot on the Nikon D5. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 250 | 1/2500 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Nikon 70-200 F2.8 at 200mm

Of all the cameras in the world, the D5’s become my first choice for shooting anything moving thanks to its ridiculously reliable AF performance. And it’s no surprise that its autofocus system shone once more during the tennis match. Whether using a single point, zone or 3D Tracking, I enjoyed a 95%+ hit rate with the D5.

I used a combination of similar AF settings on the E-M1X, including a single point, zone and AF tracking – the latter impressed me with its stickiness. And ultimately, my hit rate was around 80%; this was after maxing out AF-C sensitivity early in the match.

The E-M1X’s AF system doesn’t feel quite as reliable as the D5’s or even the 1D X II’s

While these hit rates aren’t vastly different, the way in which the cameras missed shots is worth noting. With the Nikon, the very few shots it missed were usually toward the start of a burst and focus mostly corrected itself within a few frames. With the Olympus, slightly miss-focused shots seem to be sprinkled throughout otherwise in-focus bursts. This made picking my selects tricky – on more than one occasion that random missed shot coincided with my frame of choice. Sigh.

Ultimately, the E-M1X’s AF system doesn’t feel quite as reliable as the D5’s or even the 1D X II’s. The hit rate is good, but not great. So while Canon and Nikon compete in the autofocus big leagues, it seems Olympus is still working its way up through the minor leagues.

Using the Nikon D5 resulted in less frames like this. Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Also note: rolling shutter.

Ergonomics

While the E-M1X concedes ground to the D5 in AF, it holds its own in terms of ergonomics. Both of these cameras are large – and a little intimidating to operate at first – but offer outstanding degrees of customization and excellent comfort, even after extended use. The Nikon seems a little tougher-built, but also weighs ~1.5x the Olympus. Ultimately, I get the impression either camera could stand up to the abuse of shooting in a torrential downpour (the E-M1X is IPX1-rated), or being slammed to the ground by a runaway wide receiver along the sidelines.

I wish Olympus had included a top plate LCD on the E-M1X.

I wish Olympus had included a top plate LCD on the E-M1X, though. While not a deal-breaker, having a quick way to check core settings at a glance can be super handy.

Image quality

Shot on the Nikon D5. Out-of-camera JPEG cropped in post.
ISO 160 | 1/2500 sec | F2.8 | Shot using the Nikon 70-200 F2.8 at 200mm

Given the difference in sensor size, a difference in image quality shouldn’t be much of a surprise. The Nikon D5 has 3.84x the sensor area of the E-M1X and therefore offers substantially better noise performance and tonal quality. This means files from the D5 will stand up to image processing and being cropped-in better than E-M1X files. The latter was definitely in the back of my mind during the shoot. As someone who’s used to shooting sports for local publications, I’ve grown accustomed to leaving some wiggle room in my framing – after all, it’s better to have to crop-in than to miss a moment completely.

The JPEG profiles from both these brands are excellent.

I think this fact led me to subconsciously overcompensate during the match, because many of my shots on the E-M1X ended up slightly too zoomed in. Oops.

In addition to the above, a good sports camera should also offer good out-of-camera JPEGs. When shooting on a deadline, there’s often no time to process or transmit Raw files: what comes out-of-camera is going to have to do. Fortunately, the JPEG profiles from both these brands are excellent: case-in-point, I didn’t bother processing the Raws for this story.

Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 320 | 1/4000 sec | F4 | Shot using the Shot using the Olympus 300mm F4.

Lenses

The E-M1X’s smaller sensor gives it the advantage of using smaller/lighter glass than the D5, but at the cost of slower equivalent apertures, which means noisier or less detailed images and less subject separation. That said, Olympus makes plenty of reasonably-fast, high quality telephoto lenses. The 40-150mm F2.8, one of the lenses I used during the match, offered excellent reach and a reasonably fast maximum aperture (even in equivalent terms), in a fairly small, light package – something that could be a plus if you’re trying to cut weight from your kit.

Nikon’s lenses on the other hand offer faster equiv. maximum apertures, allowing for cleaner images and more background separation. But many are heftier to lug.

The wrap

Shot on the Olympus E-M1X. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 500 | 1/4000 sec | F4 | Shot using the Olympus 40-150mm F2.8 lens at 95mm equiv.

All things considered, the E-M1X is a decent choice for sports, action and wildlife photographers seeking the ergonomics of the D5 in a more reasonably-priced package. While you won’t quite get the AF reliability or superior image quality of Nikon’s flagship, you will get a faster top burst speed and a lighter kit to carry.

Those seeking the D5’s level of AF reliability would likely be better served by the Nikon D500.

Ultimately, I feel like those seeking the D5’s level of AF reliability would likely be better served by the Nikon D500 than the E-M1X: it’s more than a $ 1000 cheaper than Olympus’ flagship and sports a larger APS-C sensor and 10 fps continuous shooting with an autofocus system nearly as dependable as the D5’s. Plus, you can always pick up the vertical grip attachment for it if you need that portrait-orientation layout.


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5 Tips for Shooting Fine Art Photography

24 Apr

The post 5 Tips for Shooting Fine Art Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Fine-art photography is a term given to describe ‘photography created according to the vision of the artist as a photographer.’

In this context, photography is utilized as a way of bringing to life an image that only exists in the artist’s mind.

Rickshaw rider, Kathmandu, Nepal © Jeremy Flint

In essence, the goal of fine art is to express an idea, a message or an emotion rather than representational photography as found in photojournalism, documentary or commercial photography. Generally, it is more subjective than objective in nature.

With the concept of fine-art photography in mind, here are 5 tips to help you shoot fine art photography:

1. Check the weather

As simple as it may seem, one thing to do when shooting fine-art photography is to check the weather. You will find having good light can help to transform mundane scenes into remarkable images.

On occasion, you may turn up at a location and get lucky with the weather. However, particularly for fine-art landscape photography, weather forecasts help you to decide when the light is right to shoot on a certain day and when to avoid getting caught in heavy downpours.

2. Be creative

Being creative is one of the best ways to develop fine art photography. Putting your unique vision into your work helps you create fine art photos you can be proud of. For example, trying to show the landscapes you witness with the best impact and emotion is a proven method of developing fine art.

I recommend asking yourself what fine art do I want to capture and what do I want to convey in my images?

This is purely a personal choice where you can create an image that connects with how you are feeling at that moment in time or a unique and interesting way of embracing and documenting your chosen subject and showing this as an art form through your photos.

3. Choose a subject to stimulate the viewer

This brings me on to my next tip, choose a subject to enthuse the viewer. Finding a subject that connects with the audience can lift an image from ordinary to great. This could be anything from abstract details such as those found on rustic doors, textures of flowers or water droplets to interesting patterns.

It could also be something that can be challenging to recognize or is easily identifiable. Whatever you choose, select a topic that interests you.

4. Use colors or moods for fine art

The paintings you often see in exhibitions and galleries are considered to be forms of fine art and often demonstrate different themes and moods. Therefore, my next tip is to shoot photographs with a painterly approach using color or moods.

Color can be utilized to evoke emotion and is an excellent way of putting life into your fine art photography. Using colors such as blues and oranges can help evoke cooler or warmer tones, respectively. Bright and warm colors can add energy and an overall positive feeling, whilst cooler tones can be calming and relaxing.

You can achieve different feelings in fine art photography by capturing something dark and moody or bright and uplifting. Reducing your exposure compensation is a great way of making your images darker and more dramatic. Increasing exposure can evoke vitality. Using contrast is also a good way to create mood as it provides variety in tones.

Namibia

5. Use motion blur

Being experimental with fine-art photography is a wonderful way to achieve great pictures, and one way to do this is through motion blur. You can practice this technique in several different ways; you can photograph moving subjects, or you can move your camera when you release your shutter.

Zebras, Tanzania

Capturing moving subject’s over a period of time can create motion in the image. This technique tends to work well where either the subject or background is still, and the other is moving, giving contrast.

You can also develop continuity in an image by physically moving your camera, either up, down or sideways as you press the shutter. You will find that even by zooming your lens in while you take a photograph can create movement in your images.

Hyena Pan, Tanzania

Conclusion

In conclusion, fine-art photography is a great way to express your own ideas and vision in an interesting and subjective way. It offers the opportunity to be creative and stimulate the viewer using themes, moods and motion blur.

With these tips, go out and take some pictures of what you perceive to be fine art and share your images with us below.

The post 5 Tips for Shooting Fine Art Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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Ricoh GR III shooting experience: “Shut up and take my money”

21 Apr

‘The best camera is the one you you have with you’. I think Ghandi said that. It’s not true, of course – the best camera is the Pentax MX and unlike Ghandi I’ll fight anyone who says different.

What is true – and what the author of that aphorism meant – is that the best camera in the world is of no use whatever if you leave it at home. Like many photo obsessives, I carry a camera with me at almost all times, even if it’s just the 12MP camera on my phone. The cameras I tend to reach for when I leave the house now are a far cry from the gear I used to shoot with professionally. Gone are the days of carrying two Nikon D3S bodies and a brace of F2.8 zooms on my back, and my back is happier for it.

I’m much more likely to throw a Fujifilm X100F or Leica M10 into my bag these days, despite the inconvenience of fixed lenses. More recently I’ve been enjoying the versatility of the Nikon Z7 with its 24-70mm F4 kit zoom. But none of the cameras I just mentioned are really, truly, pocketable. That’s where the Ricoh GR series comes in.

This is a composite image created from several Raw files from the GR II. I’ll often shoot sequences like this on hikes, to simulate the effect of a much wider field of view. I downsized this shot for upload – the original is enormous.

Incidentally, this is the fire lookout hut where Gary Snyder wrote one of his most famous (and one of my favorite) poems. ‘Mid-August at Sourdough Mountain Lookout’.

Ricoh GR II – stitched image from multiple frames.

I owned a Ricoh GR II for quite a while, and I loved it. The breast pocket of my favorite jacket still has a GR II-shaped shape crease in it, which I suspect is permanent at this point. While 28mm isn’t my first choice of focal length, it’s great for casual shots of friends, street scenes and general outdoor photography. The GR-series have always been fantastic cameras for hiking and cycling with thanks to their solid build quality and small size, and 28mm is perfect for quick trailside landscapes.

Fitting the GR II’s relatively small 16MP files into my workflow ended up being awkward

The only reason I sold my old GR II (to one of my DPReview colleagues, in fact) was that I found myself working on projects that really needed the 24MP+ resolution available in contemporary DSLRs and mirrorless cameras. Fitting the GR II’s relatively small 16MP files into my workflow – pin sharp as they undoubtedly were – ended up just being awkward, so off it went to a new home.

Had I known how long it would be until we saw a Mark III, I might have kept hold of it. But when the GR III was finally announced, it seemed to solve three of my main frustrations with the GR / II.

While I don’t naturally gravitate to the 28mm focal length, it’s a great focal length for scenes like this. And the GR III is so small that I can dangle it over a balcony without fear.

ISO 500 | 1/40 sec | F5.6

Firstly there’s the resolution boost. 16-24MP isn’t a massive leap, but it’s enough to make a difference, and enough to make modest cropping an option. I tend to prefer 35mm to 28mm, and in 35mm crop mode the GR III outputs 15MP files – effectively the same resolution as the Mark II at 28mm. I don’t shoot in crop modes often, but it is nice to have the option of cropping later and being left with a usable amount of pixels.

Secondly, autofocus has been updated to on-sensor phase-detection. This promises faster and less hesitant AF than the notoriously hunting-prone GR II.

Finally, the sensor in the GR III is stabilized. There’s some debate about this point – why do you need stabilization to shoot at 28mm? Well, if you’re shooting on a DSLR or most ILCs, you probably don’t. Large, heavy cameras absorb moderate handshake pretty well. But with a camera as light as the GR II / III, designed to be used one-handed for grab-shooting, the (figurative) helping hand is actually very useful. I’ve found that I can safely hand-hold images down to around 1/10sec with stabilization turned on, which is turns out to be very valuable when it comes to things like capturing flowing water, or just keeping ISO low in darker conditions.

An APS-C camera with a stabilized, modern sensor that fits into a shirt pocket? Yes please.

I had held out a vain hope that the GR III might feature some kind of built-in EVF, perhaps of a similar kind to that offered by the Sony Cyber-shot RX100 VI and its ilk. Realistically though, the minute that Ricoh told us that the GR III would feature IBIS, and would actually be smaller in form factor than the II, I knew there wouldn’t be room for an EVF. It turns out there wasn’t room for a flash, either. Oh well. I know a lot of photographers who were heartbroken by the loss of the latter, but it doesn’t really bother me.

I was nervous to learn that Ricoh had redesigned the GR III’s lens, but looking through my images I’m reassured to see that images from the GR III are at least as sharp as I’d expect from previous models. Bokeh isn’t amazing, but opportunities for blurring backgrounds on a 28mm F2.8 lens are pretty slim unless you’re shooting in the macro range.

Great bokeh? Not exactly. But considering the physics of a 28mm equivalent F2.8 lens, I don’t care. The GR III’s lens is impressively sharp at all apertures and focus distances, which is much more important to me in a camera of this type.

ISO 200 | 1/125 sec | F2.8

I’m getting ahead of myself. Picking up the GR III after using a GR II for so long I felt like I immediately knew the camera. Comparing them directly, it’s obvious that Ricoh has tidied up the user interface quite a lot, as well as dispensing with some of the GR II’s physical buttons, but none of the changes have really got in my way. For quick pictures I use the GR III in almost exactly the same way as I used to enjoy shooting with the GR II: in aperture priority mode, usually between F4-8, using auto-area autofocus.

The rear screen is now touch-sensitive, and partly as a consequence it is covered in a layer of highly reflective glass. This makes it almost impossible to accurately preview composition on a bright day, so I’ve taken to mounting an old 28mm optical viewfinder I had lying in a drawer, which gets me close enough. the downside is that with a finder added, the GR III is no longer quite so pocketable.

Perhaps the GR III’s major achilles heel is
battery life

Another option for outdoor use is to increase the screen brightness (I have the movie button set to provide quick access to this setting) but there is a cost. Perhaps the GR III’s major achilles heel is battery life. While you can eke out a few hundred shots per charge in a single session with minimal image review, if you’re shooting at slower shutter speeds (where the IBIS kicks in) or working with boosted screen brightness, you’re taking a risk without at least one spare battery in your pocket. It’s not quite Sony Cyber-shot RX1R II-level bad, but it’s bad. And like many small battery cameras, the GR III’s battery indicator goes from the cheerful-looking full bars icon to the unhappy no bars red blinky icon with very little warning.

This shot demonstrates one of the major shortcomings of the GR III – it’s virtually impossible to discern what’s on the screen in bright light. I shot several versions of this scene at different exposure settings, and used an external finder for framing.

ISO 100 | 1/1250 sec | F7.1

Fortunately, the GR III is equipped with in-camera charging, via the (more or less) standard USB-C interface used by a lot of cameras and mobile devices these days. The GR II used a fiddly connector which looked like standard USB mini but wasn’t. I have three of them, because twice I thought I’d lost my last spare. A full charge takes a couple of hours, but I’ve found even ten minutes plugged into an external battery pack is enough to get me out of trouble.

Unfortunately there’s no workaround for the GR III’s autofocus system, which – sadly – is still pretty hopeless in low light. In bright conditions it’s definitely improved over the GR II. I don’t think there’s any doubt about that. Autofocus is acquired faster and with less hunting, and the overall impression in decent lighting is that the GR III focuses about as quickly as a Fujfilm X100T/F. But take the thing indoors or – heaven forbid – start trying to shoot after dark, and it falls apart quickly. The obnoxious green AF light provides enough light for the camera to (eventually, usually) lock on, but it can take several seconds. No kidding.

Ultimately though, I’m prepared to forgive the GR III most of its foibles. The fact is that it’s a fast, responsive (usually) camera with a great sensor, effective in-body stabilization and a sharp lens which fits into my shirt pocket. I started this article with a quote and I’ll end with another – ‘shut up and take my money’.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony adds enhanced Real-time Eye AF, Animal Eye AF and interval shooting to the a7R III, A7 III

11 Apr

Sony has released firmware version 3.0 for its a7R III and a7 III full-frame mirrorless cameras, bringing enhanced real-time Eye AF functionality as well as an Eye AF mode designed specifically for animals.

Enhanced Real-time Eye AF

Sony’s enhanced Real-time Eye AF is now available in the AF-C focus mode and works with a half-press of the shutter button, or when pressing the AF-ON button. When set to function with a half press of the shutter or with the AF-ON button, Real-time Eye AF will continue to operate as usual, even if no eye is found in the scene. If you choose to map the Real-time Eye AF function to a custom button, you will lose out on this functionality.

Firmware version 3.0 seen installed on an a7 III camera.

Real-time Animal Eye AF

It’s not just human eyes Sony is focusing on either. Firmware version 3.0 brings — for the first time ever in an interchangeable lens camera — Animal Eye AF, a new autofocus mode that uses AI-trained algorithms to pinpoint and focus on the eyes of wild animals and pets.

Like Real-time Eye AF, Animal Eye AF works with AF-C focus mode and is activated with the half press of the shutter button or when assigned to the AF-ON button. It’s worth noting however, that you must choose between the ‘Human’ and ‘Animal’ Eye AF mode in the menu before shooting. Sony also notes that due to the large amount of data required to track animal eyes, the Animal Eye AF likely won’t perform as well as the Human Eye AF.

Interval Shooting mode

Firmware version 3.0 also brings an interval shooting mode first seen in the Sony a6400. Now, it’s easy to capture between 1 and 9999 photographs in 1 to 60 second intervals. The new feature also includes an auto exposure (AE) sensitivity setting that can be adjusted between High, Mid or Low to account for changing exposures throughout the set capture time.

The resulting images can also be put together into a full video using Sony’s Imaging Edge app, which will process the Raw photographs and output the final video to YouTube, PlayMemories Online and other online video services. Below is a video shared by Sony showing a video produced with the new Interval Shooting mode.

Other changes found in firmware version 3.0 for a7R III and a7 III cameras include support for Sony’s wireless remote commander RMT-P1BT, the ability to assign the ‘Menu’ button to a custom key and general stability improvements.

As for the a9, Sony anticipated firmware version 6.0 will be released Summer 2019 and will include Animal Eye AF and the interval shooting modes now available for the a7R III and a7 III.

Firmware update 3.0 is available to download now on Sony’s website via the Sony a7R III support page and the Sony a7 III support page. As the firmware was only released at the time of publishing this article, we will be spending time with the firmware update to provide more hands-on insight at a later time.

Press release:

New Firmware Update for Sony a7 III and Sony a7R III Boosts Eye AF Capabilities and Adds Interval Shooting for Time Lapse

Sony’s acclaimed a7 III and a7R III mirrorless cameras have received an exciting firmware update—Software Version 3.0— that enhances Real-time Eye AF performance and adds Real-time Animal Eye AF and interval shooting for time lapse.

Real-time Eye AF

Software Version 3.0 brings Real-time Eye-AF to the a7R III and a7 III, an AI-driven, enhanced eye detection system that’s based on the results of machine learning. Through machine learning, Sony has created a system that can detect—and focus on—the human eye even if the subject is looking down, partially blocked in the frame, turning or backlit. This feature is available in AF-C mode with a simple half-press of the shutter button.

Real-time Animal Eye AF

As with human eye recognition, Software Version 3.0 brings AI-driven animal eye detection to Sony cameras for the first time. Advanced subject recognition allows the a7 III and a7R III to detect and track animal eyes, and is the first step in a robust animal-tracking AF system.

The development of Animal Eye AF performance will continue, increasing the range of animals recognized by the system as well the system’s ability to track their movement.

Interval Shooting

This new software adds a built-in interval timer that can be set for anywhere between 1 and 60 seconds, with a total number of shots from 1 to 9999. AE tracking sensitivity is available to be adjusted to “High”, “Mid” or “Low” in order to reduce changes in exposure.

For more information on Software Version 3.0 for the a7R III and a7 III cameras, please visit AlphaUniverse.com.


Update (April 11, 2019): Text edited to clarify Real-time Eye AF and Animal Eye AF work with AF-C focus mode.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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