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Fujifilm X-Pro3 review: living in the moment, not a screen in sight

12 Nov

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85%

Overall score

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The Fujifilm X-Pro3 is a 26 megapixel mirrorless interchangeable lens camera built around a clever optical / electronic viewfinder and designed to look like a classic rangefinder.

This, the third iteration of Fujifilm’s first X-mount camera gains titanium top and base plates but the most noteworthy feature is an LCD panel that faces the back of the camera and needs to be flipped down to use it. The viewfinder and rear screen are the main distinctions between this and the similarly-specced X-T3.

A low-resolution status panel on the back of the camera speaks to the underlying ethos of the camera, which we’ll look into in more detail on the next page.

Key Specifications

26MP APS-C BSI CMOS sensor
Optical/Electronic hybrid viewfinder
Fold down rear LCD
Rear-facing Memory LCD status panel
Titanium top/bottom plates
4K video at up to 30p, 200Mbps
11 Film Simulation modes, now with ‘Classic Neg’

The X-Pro3 is available in painted black version with a list price of $ 1799 or with the silver or black hardened, coated surface for $ 1999.

What’s new and how it compares

The X-Pro3 looks a lot like its predecessors except for one major change.

A new titanium top plate, rear ‘sub monitor’ and hidden flip-out LCD round out the major body updates.

Photo editor Dan Bracaglia took a pre-production X-Pro3 on holiday to Northern California. Here are his thoughts on the hidden rear screen.

The X-Pro3 offers the excellent image quality and attractive processing options we saw in the X-T3. It also gains an in-camera HDR mode.

The X-Pro3’s autofocus is highly capable but requires more user input than the best of its peers.

Despite its old-skool stills ethos, the X-Pro3 can shoot some impressive video footage.

The X-Pro3’s design pushes you to shoot with the optical finder or with the camera at waist level. We found both methods to be limiting and engaging to different degrees.

The X-Pro3 is an intentionally divisive camera, but one we think will hold a certain appeal for some photographers.

The X-Pro3 gains the ‘Classic Negative’ film stimulation. Check out examples of it and more in our hardy samples gallery.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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The Olympus TOUGH TG-6 Camera Review – A Perfect Adventure Companion?

12 Nov

The post The Olympus TOUGH TG-6 Camera Review – A Perfect Adventure Companion? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

The Olympus Tough TG-6 is the perfect camera for the adventurous soul.

Like a wilderness travel guide, the TG-6 pulls you into the micro world, under the water, and down deeper trails than you would ever take your clunky DSLR down. You can trust the Olympus Tough TG-6 out in the wild because it’s built strong and made for adventure. It’s even tough enough to let your kids use it.

Moreover, it’s really small, so it doesn’t hinder your adventure for even a moment. And it’s so capable it will inspire adventures you hadn’t planned.

This review is about what the Olympus Tough TG-6 will let you do as a photographer and how the pictures look.

An evening adventure used to mean hauling a heavy bag filled with gear. I never knew which gear I would need for sure, so I always brought too much. Eventually, I just stopped going on spontaneous adventures because it became too much of a chore. The Olympus Tough TG-6 replaces all that stuff I used to haul around. Gear is no longer the hindrance it used to be.

The technical specs

The reason why so many people are excited about the Olympus Tough TG-6 is the impressive list of technical specs.

F2.0 wide-angle lens (the aperture narrows as you zoom)
20 frames per second
Underwater modes
Microscope mode
In-camera focus stacking
Scene selection
Aperture mode
RAW capture
4K video
Waterproof
Shockproof
Dustproof
Crushproof
Freezeproof

Of course, the reason this list of specs is so exciting is because of what they’ll let you do with this camera as a photographer.

“No photographer is as good as the simplest camera.” – Edward Steichen

When you read camera reviews, you want to know what a camera is capable of and how great the picture quality will be.

Don’t forget that a camera only has to be so good and then the rest is up to you. The world’s greatest camera isn’t much good in the hands of a person that knows nothing about light, moment, or composition. Look for a camera that meets your general needs, then up your game as a photographer.

The most famous photographs were made with cameras that we would consider inferior by today’s standards. A beautiful photograph transcends the technology it was made with.

In the end, it’s not about the technical specs of a camera, but what those technical specs let us do as creative people and photographers.

The TG-6 has an impressive resume. Let’s see what it can help us do.

Aperture: f/2.0, Shutter Speed: 1/250 sec, ISO: 3200

When my first child was born I was just becoming the photographer I had always wanted to be. I couldn’t wait to take him on adventures with me as he grew. Ironically, it was a bag filled with too much gear and too many options that held me back from adventures with my kids. The TG-6 is everything I always wanted and fits in my pocket. It practically pushes us out the door and into the world.

“My life is shaped by the urgent need to wander and observe, and my camera is my passport.” – Steve McCurry

What if you could shrink yourself?

It is captivating to suddenly see the world through a magnifying glass or microscope – to see tiny details blown up big. You may not be able to shrink yourself, but you can enter the micro world with the Olympus Tough TG-6.

Microscope mode

With the TG-6, you can get insanely close and discover the mystery and beauty in the fine details of everyday objects. You’ll be exploring the world in a way you haven’t done since science class.

The micro world offers you an infinite number of things to photograph. Look around you right now. There are so many things that you would never photograph on their own, but you can dive in microscopically to a new world and become enamored with the beauty of fine details.

If you’ve got the courage, the TG-6 will bring you up close and personal with insects.

The Olympus TOUGH TG-6 Camera Review – A Perfect Adventure Companion?

The TG-6 can capture incredibly fine detail that the human eye overlooks.

The Olympus TOUGH TG-6 Camera Review – A Perfect Adventure Companion?

F/3.6, 1/100 sec, ISO 800

The problem with close-up photography

One of the biggest problems you’re going to run into with close-up photography is a shallow depth of field. You may take a photo of a flower, and nothing more than the edge of a petal is in focus. This is frustrating when you want more of that tiny object to be in focus.

How “focus bracketing” solves the problem

One way to deal with this is to take a series of photos at different focus points (focus bracketing), and later combine them in Photoshop in a process called focus stacking. The end result is an image with more depth of field than is possible in a single photo. If you’re a serious macro photographer, this is an amazing option. But it’s a labor-intensive process and you’re not likely going to do it on a whim while on a nature hike.

But the amazing thing about the Olympus Tough TG-6 is that it can actually do both the focus bracketing and focus stacking for you – all in-camera!

Let the Olympus Tough TG-6 do the Photoshop work for you

The photos below illustrate the frustration of such a shallow depth of field in close-up or macro photography. But they also illustrate the power of the TG-6’s in-camera focus stacking.

The photo on the left is a single exposure with a shallow depth of field, while the photo on the right is the result of several photos with varying focus points stacked together into one image.

On the left, only a small portion of the leaf is in focus. But using the focus stacking option on the TG-6, the photo on the right is almost entirely in focus.

Normally, you need a dedicated macro lens if you want to take close-up, macro, or microscopic photos. That means a financial investment and another lens in your bag. But the TG-6 has this capability built-in. The close-up function is worth the cost of the camera.

Get in, the water’s nice!

You’re missing so much fun if you can’t take your camera into, or at least near, the water.

Generally, an underwater housing is expensive and might limit your access to camera settings. Best case scenario, you invest a lot of money to get your camera into the water. But this is a lot to invest and most people won’t do it on a whim. You’ve got to be sure you want to be in the water a lot to make it worth the investment.

With the Olympus Tough TG-6, you don’t need to think twice; just get in!

Having a camera that can get wet means you can get into the splash zone. Don’t photograph puddle-jumping-kids from a distance; get close and get wet!

Get underwater and explore fish from their world.

Don’t stand on the shore with dry feet to photograph the sunset; hit the waves.

The Olympus TOUGH TG-6 Camera Review – A Perfect Adventure Companion?

My kids and I discovered a stream filled with salmon. I knew it was the perfect chance to try out the TG-6 underwater.

A couple of years ago, I stepped into a river with one camera in my hand and one around my neck. I was photographing people back on the shore and kept crouching a little to go for a lower angle. Every time that I crouched down for a great low angle, I was unknowingly dunking the camera around my neck into the water. Goodbye, Fuji x100s.

The irony is that I had an underwater case for my x100s. But it’s so clumsy to use in the case that it hinders my photography.

You no longer need to be nervous around the water with your camera – the TG-6 is completely waterproof and pulls you right in.

A good motivator

If it hasn’t happened yet, the day will come when you lose your drive and inspiration as a photographer.

At first, the thought of packing up all your gear and lugging it around will overwhelm you. Especially because you know you won’t even be happy with the pictures you take.

Then, even just the thought of picking up your camera will depress you.

You lose your drive, your inspiration, and eventually your will as a photographer.

You’ve already learned that new gear is not the answer to this depressing dry period you’re going through. But that’s because most gear is the wrong gear for you.

The TG-6 isn’t just a new camera, it’s a passport to new lands. It’s like slinging on a backpack and heading out to discover the world. It sits there looking at you, hoping you will take it out to play. Photography doesn’t have to feel like a burden anymore.

TG-6 photography inspiration

“It’s a dangerous business, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to.” ~ Bilbo Baggins

Leave the Olympus TG-6 laying around

When my camera is in the bag, it never gets used. I prefer to leave it out with the lens cap off and the power button left on so that I’m ready to make a photograph at a moment’s notice.

But when I leave my cameras lying around, my wife doesn’t like the clutter (even though she loves the photos that result from the clutter).
Not to mention that leaving expensive cameras around is a hazard with a house full of kids and their rowdy friends.

The TG-6 has become our dedicated “leave it laying around the house” camera. It’s so small that it doesn’t bother my wife. It’s there when we need it. And, it’s so tough we don’t mind the kids using it.

I’m capturing many more moments now that I’ve got a dedicated “everyday life camera.”

Olympus TG-6 capturing candid moments

Window light candid moments with the Olympus TG-6

Black and white photography wit hthe Olympus TG-6

So tough I let the kids use it

One of the things that first attracted me to the Olympus Tough cameras is that I can let my kids use them. The TG-6 is waterproof, shockproof, dustproof, crushproof and freezeproof. Which means it’s also kid-proof.

I love to look at the photos my kids have taken. It’s inspiring to see what captures their attention enough to take a picture.

When my kids ask to use the camera while they explore sand dunes and lakes, I have no problem handing them the TG-6 to use.

Essential modes

After using the Olympus Tough TG-6 for about a month, I’ve figured out my favorite combination of settings for everyday use; P mode.

I want a certain amount of control over ISO, aperture and shutter speed because I understand how they affect my photo. But I don’t want to overthink these settings and miss the beauty of the moment.

In P mode, the camera will choose the shutter speed and aperture for you. All you have to think about is ISO (but you can select auto ISO if you wish).

With a few minor adjustments in P mode, I can make the TG-6 do exactly what I want it to.

In the menu, I set the minimum shutter speed to 1/125th. I want the camera to set the shutter speed for me, but I don’t want it to go any slower than this.

I select auto ISO, but I set the maximum ISO to 1600. I don’t want the ISO to go any higher than that because of the noise issues.

While it’s balancing the settings out, the TG-6 will always favor a lower ISO and only raise it if it needs to. Eventually, if it’s dark enough, it will go below your minimum shutter speed in order to achieve a good exposure.

Here’s the best part; in P mode, you have direct access to exposure compensation with the camera dial. Your camera will hardly ever get the exposure just as you want it. So use the exposure compensation feature to brighten or darken the photo before you take the picture.

There is no full-manual mode on this camera. But if you know what you’re doing, you can still take full control.

TG-6 exposure compensation feature

Processing RAW files

Using Lightroom 6, I am unable to edit the RAW files from the TG-6. However, Olympus provides free editing software called, Olympus Workspace.

Because of this camera’s smaller sensor size (and difficulty capturing extreme dynamic range), I am not putting much hope in the RAW files. RAW + JPG capture is a great option. Get the best exposure you can in order to have the highest quality JPG file, and keep the RAW file in case of an emergency.

Even heroes have a weakness

There are three main weaknesses that I have discovered with the Olympus Tough TG-6.

Lens Flare

I love playing with lens flare and I quickly discovered that is almost impossible to do with the TG-6. This is the strangest lens flare that I have ever seen. It’s discouraging, but I’ll have to learn to make compelling photographers without lens flare.

Oympus TG-6 lens flare

Noise

The Olympus Tough TG-6 produces a lot of noise in high ISO, low light photos.

The following photos are lit with a small-screen TV and/or a lamp.

This photo was lit with a lamp. you can see the grainy discoloration in the white blanket. The ISO is 3200.

This is a close-up of the white blanket in the previous photo.

This photo is lit with the light from a TV and a small light in the next room over. The ISO was 3200.

High ISO noise

You can see the grain and discoloration in his skin.

The following photos are backlit with dim light from a living room window.

Again, the ISO was set at 3200. Because the light is brighter, there isn’t as much noise and discoloration. But there is a lack of crispness to the photo.

But I was shocked to capture this photo with lots of movement at ISO 3200 because it looks so crisp.

Sharp in bright light

You’ll have to get used to keeping your ISO at 1600 or lower (you’ll need a steady hand for the slow shutter speed that results).

But in bright light, with a low ISO, the TG-6 is nice and sharp.

A sharp photo with low ISO

So the Olympus Tough TG-6 is weak under extreme lighting conditions, but so are many other cameras. For many of us, high ISO with low noise is the last frontier on the technological side of photography.

We can strengthen the TG-6 by post-processing the photo with a program such as Lightroom. Keep your ISO to 1600 or lower when possible, and convert to black and white when suitable.

No control over shutter speed

At first, I thought it was a problem that there was no shutter speed mode on the TG-6. But then I realized that it wasn’t really necessary. You just have to know how to work around it.

If you want a quick shutter speed to freeze the action, use sports mode.

If you want a slow shutter speed to capture motion blur then you need to understand how to force the camera to produce a slow shutter speed.

Suppose you want to capture a silky waterfall photo. Normally, you need control over your shutter speed to make it go slow enough to capture the motion. But with the TG-6 you don’t have control over the shutter speed.

Or, do you?

When you understand ISO and aperture then you do have control over the shutter speed.

Olympus TG-6 slow shutte speed silky waterfall

In order to get silky waterfalls, you need a slow shutter speed. You can force your camera to choose a slow shutter speed by lowering your ISO and closing your aperture.

Choose an ISO of 100. Choose an aperture of f18. This will effectively choke out the light and force the TG-6 to slow down the shutter speed to let more light in. The slow shutter speed will produce a silky waterfall.

So the lack of control over shutter speed isn’t a big problem.

Olympus TOUGH TG-6

The greatest weakness

As photographers, we can find moments so powerful that lens flare isn’t necessary. And, we can look for moments so strong that the viewer will overlook high ISO noise in the photo. Whatever the shortcomings of our cameras, we as photographers always fall shorter. Whatever their weaknesses, our cameras are just fine. We need to increase our skills and know that, even if there was a perfect camera, it could only be used by an imperfect photographer.

The power of the Olympus Tough TG-6 is not merely in its technology. The power is in what that technology allows us to do. This is a camera that will nudge you every time you walk by. It’s like a kid who wants to be played with or a dog that wants to be taken out for a run. Come on, just a quick adventure?

A countless number of moments pass us every day. They become almost infinite in size when we consider their range from wide-angle to microscopic. When you’ve got a camera like the TG-6 in your pocket, it’s not so hard to make those moments hold still.

Have you used the Olympus Tough TG-6 camera? Would a camera like this make you take more photos? Share your thoughts with us in the comments!

The post The Olympus TOUGH TG-6 Camera Review – A Perfect Adventure Companion? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

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Review: The DJI Mavic Mini is the tiny drone you want in your Xmas stocking

10 Nov

DJI Mavic Mini
$ 399 | www.dji.com

DJI just announced the latest addition to its Mavic series, the Mini, and what’s most notable about it is its weight of 249 grams at takeoff. In the US, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) requires registration on all unmanned aerial vehicles weighing between 250 grams (0.55 pounds) and 55 pounds, and similar laws apply in many other countries.

Ultralight weight may be the Mavic Mini’s headline feature, but focusing on that overlooks the fact that it’s also a pretty capable drone at a very accessible price point. Let’s take a look at the Mavic Mini in more detail to understand where it stands out and what you may need to give up to get a drone this tiny.

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Key features

249g total weight
1/2.3″ CMOS image sensor
24mm equivalent lens (83º FOV)
Fixed F2.8 aperture
12MP photo resolution
2.7K/30p and 1080/30p video
30-minute flight time

The minuscule Mavic Mini

When folded down, the Mavic Mini is 140×82×57mm and fits comfortably in the palm of your hand. It’s lighter than most smartphones. The remote, which resembles those used in the Mavic 2 series, minus the electronic display, is slightly larger and heavier than the drone itself, which really puts the size in perspective.

The Mavic Mini is small, even compared to the Mavic 2 Pro.

Propellers need to be removed and replaced with a small screwdriver, which is included. This was likely designed to keep the weight down as springs and additional plastic hubs would have added more bulk. Propeller cages, which are included with the Fly More Combo, are light, easy to install, and don’t add more than a gram to the overall takeoff weight.

What’s impressive is how DJI managed to fit a 3-axis gimbal onto such a light, compact drone. This goes a long way to ensuring smooth, stabilized camera footage. The DJI Spark, by comparison, weighs 50 grams more than the Mavic Mini and only features a 2-axis gimbal.

ISO 100 | 1/500 sec. | F2.8 | 24mm (equiv)

Mounted on that 3-axis stabilized gimbal is a 1/2.3” CMOS sensor 12MP camera, similar to the ones found on the Spark, Mavic Air, and Mavic Pro Platinum. The Mini’s camera boasts a 24mm (equiv.) fixed-aperture F2.8 lens with an 83º FOV, and provides an ISO range from 100-3200. The camera doesn’t support Raw image capture, so photos will be Jpeg only. Photo enthusiasts may find this disappointing, but keep in mind this is basically DJI’s entry-level model. Finally, there isn’t a way to attach a polarizing or ND filter onto the lens.

We speculated earlier about some features the camera might include. Unfortunately, rumors of 4K recording never came to fruition. Instead, a maximum of 2.7K/30p or 1080/60p footage can be acquired at a bitrate of 40 Mbps using the H.264 codec. Unlike other DJI models in its class, there’s no way to adjust the shutter speed. Instead, when shooting video, you can adjust the Exposure Compensation. I underexposed at values ranging from -0.7 to -1.3 to avoid blowing out sensitive areas including skies.

Sample video from the Mavic Mini shot at 2.7K/30p resolution. YouTube doesn’t like the 2.7K resolution and automatically downscales it to 1080p.

The Mavic Mini doesn’t come equipped with obstacle avoidance sensors in the front or back. Instead, there are two vision positioning sensors located on the bottom of the aircraft, and these sensors come in handy when flying indoors as they give the drone the ability to hover in place, even without GPS. Considering that DJI’s recent trend has been to include obstacle avoidance systems on its drones, this omission is likely the result of needing to keep the weight under 250g.

The remote is slightly larger and heavier than the drone itself, which really puts the size in perspective.

DJI claims 30 minutes as the maximum battery life for the Mini. Where I’m testing in the midwest, the weather has cooled down significantly and in mild winds, at an outdoor temperature of 3ºC (about 37º F), the drone logged an impressive 25-26 minutes of flight time. It’s refreshing to know that the battery life, in reality, is consistent with what is promised by the manufacturer. It’s also rather impressive given the minuscule size, significantly outperforming models like the Spark and Mavic Air.

Unlike the Mavic 2 series, there isn’t any internal storage for media in the Mini. A memory card slot for a microSD card is located below the battery portal. A micro USB plug is included to charge the drone directly.

The controls

A new pared-down app, DJI Fly, was developed for the Mavic Mini. Most of the menu items DJI users have grown accustomed to using on the DJI GO 4 app are either gone or tucked away into a more streamlined display. A simple battery icon lets the user know how much life is left when in flight. Photo mode features timed shots and the option for shooting in Auto or Manual Mode. The video portion is straightforward, allowing users to select Exposure Compensation, resolution, frame rates, and opt for Quick Shots.

The Mavic Mini’s controller is similar in size to those of other DJI consumer drones. In the case of the Mini, it’s as large as the drone itself.

Another notable set of missing features are DJI’s Intelligent Flight modes including ActiveTrack, TapFly, and Course Lock. DJI has a history of adding features and modes into periodic app updates, however, so these may be included at some point. Automated Quick Shots available on the Mini include the Dronie, Rocket, Circle, and Helix.

There are three flying modes: Sport, Position, and Cinematic. The latter automatically adjusts the sensitivity of the joysticks making it relatively easy to acquire smooth, cinematic-like video on the fly without having to make in-app adjustments. Unlike some of DJI’s higher priced models, the Mavic Mini doesn’t include OccuSync 2.0, meaning it’s not compatible with a Smart Controller.

The user interface on the DJI Fly app is clean and simple. I tested the beta version and found it to be straightforward – something a beginner pilot will appreciate. A lot of the features more seasoned pilots work with are gone but they would likely overwhelm a newbie.

The new DJI Fly app replaces the DJI GO app used to control other DJI models. It provides a simpler interface that new pilots will appreciate, but experienced pilots may miss some features from DJI GO.

Safe Fly Zones have been incorporated into the app. This is especially useful for users not familiar with AirMap, Kittyhawk, B4UFly or other airspace management apps that tell you where it’s safe and legal to fly. I’d like to see DJI reintegrate the Battery/Return to Home Indicator feature from the DJI GO App; it’s a much more effective visual for informing remote pilots at any level about status and when it’s time to start landing the aircraft.

What’s it like to fly?

I thoroughly enjoyed flying the Mavic Mini both indoors and outdoors. The light weight of the drone made me apprehensive at first, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover that it handled well in moderate winds. It’s much more aerodynamic and durable than the Spark, which feels like a brick in comparison.

But this little drone has its limits. All it took was one flight along the river in downtown Grand Rapids for me to realize that high winds along Lake Michigan, which the much sturdier Phantom 4 Pro can handle with ease, would blow the Mini away – literally. It’s also quite noisy for such a little machine.

ISO 100 | 1/40 sec. | F2.8 | 24mm (equiv)

The camera on the Mini is similar to the Spark and, for comparison’s sake, the DJI Phantom 3 Pro, a model I flew 3+ years ago. The images are good enough for the price point, but people looking to capture fine details or who want more flexibility in setting everything in Manual mode are going to want an upgrade.

The Mavic Mini lacks the ability to capture 4K footage, something that may bother professionals or enthusiasts, but it’s still capable of producing decent video thanks to the stabilized gimbal. Even in moderate winds, I didn’t experience the dreaded jello effect – a paint point with older models that caused footage to appear wobbly. It’s clear that DJI limited the ability to manipulate the settings in video since beginners are more likely to rely on Auto mode. I brought it out on a semi-cloudy day and it was able to detect the difference in both sunny and overcast conditions and adjust accordingly.

Who’s it for?

If you’re creating professional-grade work, this isn’t the drone you’ll want in your arsenal. Those seeking out Raw photos, auto exposure bracketing, and high-end cinematic footage will want to start with the Mavic 2 Pro and go up from there. Even though the Mini can fly up to 500m (1,600 ft.) above ground level, and boasts a range of up to 4km (2.5 miles), it’s not something I’d be comfortable scaling a tall structure with or flying further than 1,000 – 1,500 feet away.

ISO 100 | 1/320 sec. | F2.8 | 24mm (equiv)

All that being said, this is the perfect little drone for beginners starting on their drone journey. DJI offers up an array of drones suited for specific purposes and this particular model will definitely appeal to beginners looking for a budget-friendly place to start, hobbyists looking for something portable and simple to operate, and people who don’t aspire to be professional remote pilots but would like to share unique aerial footage to their social media accounts. As the trend continues shifting toward more compact drones, it’ll be exciting to see how better cameras and technology get incorporated over the coming years.

Final thoughts

Overall, the Mavic Mini is the perfect drone for beginners. It’s lightweight, easy to set up, and a joy to fly. I tested the Fly More Combo which, at $ 100 more than $ 399 for the basic package, is a steal. It includes 3 batteries, the propeller cage (which is especially useful as the drone will simply bounce off most objects it collides with), and a case to carry it all that’s smaller than a sheet of paper. The convenience factor, alone, is what makes this drone ideal for many uses.

One final note: while it may not be necessary to register this drone in the US, it goes without saying that users still need to abide by standard airspace rules.

What we like:

Tiny size makes it a true ‘take anywhere’ drone
Good photo and video quality for a beginner model
Impressive 30-minute flight time

What we don’t:

New DJI Fly app feels a bit rough around the edges
No obstacle avoidance system
Does not include some of DJI’s intelligent flight modes

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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DPReview TV: Sony a7R IV Review

02 Nov

Chris and Jordan pay a visit to friend and studio photographer Rene Michaud to test out the Sony a7R IV. Is it compelling enough to tempt a staunch DSLR shooter to switch to mirrorless? And do Canadians wear parkas indoors during the winter? These questions and more will be answered.

Intro
Rene and Brooke
Studio Shots
Shooting in daylight
Burst Shooting
Shadow Push
Would Rene switch?
Landscape and Multishot
Image Quality
Video Quality
Who is the a7R IV for?
Conclusion

Also, subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

Sample images from this episode

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Review: What it’s like to scan film on the Epson Perfection V600

01 Nov

Film continues to be a popular medium among photographers today, and whether you’re an active or former analog user, the easiest way to share your treasured moments is by digitizing your film through scanning.

Many photo labs offer scanning as part of their services, often using large scanners able to process a full roll of 35mm film in a few minutes. But, just like developing at a lab, having a lab scan your film costs money, which is why many people like the idea of scanning negatives themselves. There are a lot of options when it comes to digitizing film yourself (including simply using a digital camera), but some of these methods require complex setups, some have huge equipment costs, and some just aren’t very good. Others, meanwhile, are actually pretty good and affordable. Meet the Epson Perfection V600.

Epson Perfection V600 key specs:

Compatible with 35mm and medium format
Max film scan resolution: 6400 x 9600 dpi
Dust/scratch removing technology
48-bit color
USB 2.0
MSRP: $ 229.99

The Epson V600 retails for $ 229.99, although there were several deals around the web for under $ 200 at the time of writing this article. In the box you get the scanner, two plastic film holder inserts, a power cable, a data cable and an Epson software CD.

Outside of the film holders, this is a really straightforward out-of-the-box experience.

Before I get too deep into breaking down what using this scanner is like I want to give some context. First, while the Epson V600 can be used for a variety of scanning applications, I’ll only be talking about using it to scan film. Second, I’ve been scanning my own film for several years using all sorts of various film scanners, and let me tell you there is a steep learning curve. Everything can be done right, but it just takes time to piece together each element and make sure you’re processing things in a way that works for you.

There are, of course, many different approaches to getting a desirable image from scanning film; the opinions in this article are just based off of my experiences. Film negatives are a lot like Raw files; how you process them can make a big difference to how they end up looking (particularly in the case of color negative and black and white films).

Getting the V600 set up


The V600 can scan normal documents as well as negatives. To scan film, remove the white cushioning bit from the top of the scanner bed and set it aside.	Now you’re ready to load up the supplied film holders. You can scan either 12 35mm or 4 medium format images at once.

Once unboxed and set up, using this scanner is pretty straightforward: you lay your film in one of the supplied plastic holders, snap it shut and place it in the scanner so that your negatives are centered on the scanner bed. You’ll be able to scan up to twelve 35mm photos or four medium format photos at once. The scanner also comes with an additional film holder for mounted slide film.

I wish the plastic holders were made of something higher quality. I’ve used other scanners that have magnetic strips for their holders and I prefer those by a long shot.

Once your negatives are in place, it’s time to get scanning via the included software, ‘Epson Scan’. Depending on which scan mode you choose (more on that below), you simply set your desired scan quality, make a preview scan and select your scan area with a marquee tool (except in Full Auto mode). Then you commit to the final scan, which can take a long while or a short while depending on your quality settings. Sound simple? Not necessarily…

On my Windows 10 desktop the scanning software was completely unstable

When I initially set up the V600, I had it connected to my Windows 10 desktop and quickly found the software to be unstable, crashing frequently during the preview scan. Eventually I couldn’t even get my computer to recognize that the scanner was on and connected. This is apparently not an uncommon problem either (I tried all the fixes in the link to no avail). I ended up following a bunch of tutorials online to fix the problem and still wasn’t able to get it to work reliably.

So, I switched over to my Apple Macbook which, though generally slower than my PC, had no issues at all running the software. Once I finally got it up and running, I actually found it fairly user-friendly. The design looks dated, but the operation is straightforward.

Scanning modes

The software has four modes, the specific options of which you can see in the images below (I’ve omitted the “Office Mode” because I’m not covering document scanning in this review).

Full Auto Mode

Full auto mode is the easiest of the modes to use, but will be too dumbed-down for most users.

Home Mode

Home mode is the mode I’d recommend as it offers just enough options without being overwhelming.

Professional Mode

Pro mode offers the most options but it can be overwhelming, with so many scanning quality windows that unless you really know what you’re doing, you’ll likely feel claustrophobic.

If you’re using the Professional Mode, the desktop can get crowded real fast with the different modules. There’s actually an additional Color Palette module in Professional Mode that you can use to alter the hues of colors in your photos that isn’t pictured above because I couldn’t fit it alongside all the other windows. If you’re up for it, the Professional Mode offers a ton of control, but I think Home mode will likely suit most users just fine.

‘Home’ vs. ‘Pro’ mode

Home Mode offers just enough control to get a good scan so that you can then make the rest of the adjustments to image quality in whatever photo editing software you prefer. You’ve got DPI, Brightness scale, and a handful of intelligent options like Color Restoration. The V600 also includes Epson’s ‘Digital ICE technology’ – available in all scanning modes – which automatically removes dust and small scratches (though I still advise dusting with canned air or a rocket blower before each scan).

Home Mode offers just enough control to get a good scan

Professional Mode, on the other hand, offers a full slew of adjustments and filters including Grain Reduction and additional dust removal alongside exposure and color adjusting tools like histograms, curves, white balance sliders, and so on. One other really nice feature is that you can change the bit-depth of your scans, with the option of 8- or 16-bit Grayscale and 24- or 48-bit Color. The DPI setting goes all the way up to 12800, so if you’re planning on making big prints this will set you up right for that.


Home Mode	Professional Mode

Above you can see a comparison of the same shot scanned in Home Mode (left) and Professional Mode (right). The Home Mode scan has noticeably less dust and hairs while the Professional Mode (with dust removal turned off) has more dust but is a bit closer to how I think the photo should look after some slight white balance, tint, and contrast corrections. Photo was shot on Portra 400VC with a Hasselblad 80mm F2.8 and a Proxar macro filter.

Quality compared to photo lab scans

More important than how this scanner stacks up against itself is how it stacks up against scans done by professionals in a photo lab. Below is a gallery comparing photos scanned on the Epson V600 to ones scanned by the professionals at Panda Lab here in Seattle, WA.

The Epson scans were all done in ‘Home’ mode at 4800 DPI (for 6400 DPI scanning you’ll need to switch to ‘Pro’ mode) and saved as Tiffs. This resulted in files ~6600 x 4400 pixels. For the sake of comparison we’ve downsized them to match the Panda Lab scans and saved them as JPEGs. Other than that, no additional adjustments were made to either scan.

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When viewed at 100% or on a large monitor, the lab scans show more detail and significantly finer grain than the Epson scans. They also do a much better job reflecting the tonality of the Fujifilm Pro 400H film they were shot on. With the Epson scans, the color is OK, but there’s a need for color-correction.

The corrected Epson scans are certainly good-enough for social media sharing or small printing

The image below and to the right is an Epson scan edited in Lightroom to match the tonality of the Professional scan. With a little fussing, you can get the colors close, but the professional scan still looks sharper, more detailed and less noisy than the Epson. But depending on your intended viewing size, that may not matter; the corrected Epson scans certainly look good enough to me for social media sharing or small printing.


Professional lab scan.	Lightroom-corrected Epson V600 scan.

Of course, the lab scans cost money (~$ 10) and the Epson scans cost you time, after initial investment. It took about 3 minutes to scan each 35mm frame, which means if you’re shooting rolls of 36 exposures, that’s 108 minutes of scanning. So if you purchase the Epson for the retail price of $ 229.99, you’d theoretically have to scan 23 rolls before saving money versus the cost of lab scans, which would take more than 41 hours.

Medium format hiccups

Note the slightly darker band in the highlights in the upper left quadrant of this photo (120 HP5+ Pushed two Stops and scanned with the Epson V600). This appears in several of my images.

Sure, the V600 can scan at high resolutions and high color depth, but unfortunately some slight banding can be an issue when working with medium format film – I didn’t notice this issue with 35mm. Banding is not an uncommon issue for flatbeds, but it is something to be aware of.

For those who don’t know, banding looks like what it sounds like: a portion of your photo will have a straight band of a slightly different exposure along the line of the scan. This is something that can sort of be corrected using Photoshop but depending on the complexity of your image it can become a huge pain to deal with.

Below you can see a full gallery of that same roll of HP5+ all scanned using the Epson V600 and edited to taste in Lightroom.

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The wrap

The Epson V600 has some flaws, like flimsy film trays and dated-looking software. But assuming you can get everything set up successfully (sorry Windows 10 users), it’s relatively easy and straightforward to get decent-looking scans using Home mode, especially if you’re only looking to scan 35mm. However, for the highest quality scans, you’re going to spend a lot of time waiting around for the V600 to do its thing.

Ultimately I think this product is a good option for amateurs and enthusiasts looking for a decent way to scan their current work, or for those looking to bring new life to old negatives. But for those desiring both high quality files and painless turnaround, your local lab is still your best bet – if you have one nearby.

What we like:

Good price
Easy-to-use
Decent scan quality

What we don’t:

Flimsy film trays
High-quality scans take a long time
Banding can be an issue when scanning medium format
Dated-looking scanning software
Hiccups with software on some Windows 10 machines

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Canon EOS M200 review: Your new pocket-friendly companion

31 Oct

Introduction

79%

Overall score

Jump to conclusion

The Canon EOS M200 is a compact, user-friendly interchangeable lens camera. It has a 24MP sensor, great Dual Pixel autofocus, and in terms of image quality, gives you a lot of bang for your buck. It’s the follow-up to Canon’s previous M100, which we really liked.

Canon hasn’t messed with the formula much in the M200, but is that enough to stand out among ever-stiffer competition? I took the EOS M200 on a quick trip to Oklahoma for a family wedding to find out how it measures up as a travel camera for taking pictures of just about anything.

Key specifications:

24MP APS-C sensor with Dual Pixel autofocus
Digic 8 image processor
Face and eye detect autofocus
4K/24p video capture (1.7x crop)
3″ tilting touchscreen
6.1fps burst shooting (~4fps with AF)
CIPA rated to 315 shots per charge, USB charging
Wi-FI and Bluetooth
MSRP of $ 599 USD with 15-45mm F3.5-6.3 kit lens

The M200 reliably churns out pleasing images right out of the camera.
Canon EF-M 15-45mm F3.5-6.3 @ 15mm | ISO 100 | 1/60 sec | F3.5

What is it?

The EOS M200 doesn’t come with all of the very latest Canon technology, but it still packs a good sensor with reliable autofocus into a camera body that’s just a bit bigger than a pack of cards. And with a good lens in front of that sensor, you’re getting the same image quality as, say, a Canon EOS 80D DSLR, but in a much smaller package.

This is a camera that your subjects won’t take super seriously, but you can take some seriously good pictures with it. It actually surprises people.

Of course, if you take photos on your smartphone, the M200 represents one more device to bring with you. If you’re mostly doing wide-angle shots of landscapes or cityscapes, or even just selfies, your smartphone is probably good enough. Modern smartphones will even let you blur out backgrounds more than you could with the kit lens that comes with the M200.

In this view, you can see all the external controls on the EOS M200: the power switch and mode dial, shutter button and surrounding dial, as well as the back plate and touch-enabled tilting screen.

But the M200 captures more resolution, meaning more detail in your images, and if you opt for one of the system’s bright prime lenses, you’ll likely get better low light performance. Also, at least for this reviewer, it can simply be more fun to take pictures on a real camera than a phone.

In any case, the combination of small size and good image quality is really appealing to me. This is a camera that your subjects won’t take super seriously, but you can take some seriously good photographs with it. It actually surprises people.

I really enjoy the M200’s unassuming nature. Out-of-camera JPEG.
Canon EF-M 22mm F2 | ISO 6400 | 1/250 sec | F2

For most of the audience that Canon is targeting with the M200, it should succeed as a fairly budget-friendly and accessible companion for generalist photography, the likes of which you’ll see throughout this review.

What’s new

To be honest…not much.

Compared to the older EOS M100 this camera replaces, there’s one fewer button, there’s a newer USB Type-C connector, and the ‘Auto’ setting on the mode dial is painted white instead of green. Yes, there’s so little to talk about that that is what I just talked about.

On the inside, an updated processor brings most of the meaningful updates. The first of which is Eye Detect autofocus: older Canon EOS cameras had reasonably good face detection, but seeing the camera pick up on your subject’s eye, even while shooting in full-auto, gives me greater piece of mind that the focus will be right where I want it.

This out-of-camera image did a good job retaining the bright highlights behind the buildings, but I wanted to see more detail in the shadows. Editing the Raw file in-camera on the M200 only lets me boost overall brightness, so then those highlights clip – back on the older EOS M100, I could boost only the shadows with what Canon calls the ‘Auto Lighting Optimizer.’

The new processor also brings 4K video (though it’s heavily cropped, so difficult to get wide-angle footage with the kit lens), slightly improved battery life, and a new compressed Raw format. Missing is the older method of processing Raw files in-camera, having been replaced by a much more user-friendly but less powerful Creative Assist function.

At its core, the M200 is a very small, snappy camera that won’t weigh you down

For me, I’m torn between appreciating CRaw (which slims file sizes without compromising quality too much) and being annoyed at the elimination of ‘proper’ in-camera Raw processing. But I’ve got to admit, for the target audience, none of this matters much, and could actually be a benefit. The simpler processing interface, which includes adjustments like brightness, contrast, and color tone is approachable for anyone who’s tuned their own Instagram filters.

At its core, what hasn’t changed is that the M200 is a very small, snappy camera that won’t weigh you down. And that is important, both to myself and the target audience.

What works

The same fun factor that I loved in the M100 is here in the M200. It’s easy to carry with you and takes excellent photographs, whether you’re out having a pizza or taking some pictures of family on the dance floor. The menu system is getting a bit crowded (most cameras suffer from this nowadays), but it’s not too hard to find what you’re looking for.

Bricktown, Oklahoma City. Out-of-camera JPEG.
Canon EF-M 15-45mm F3.5-6.3 @ 18mm | ISO 100 | 1/250 sec | F7.1

The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connection options are pretty polished, too. Establish a Bluetooth connection with the M200, and the camera will maintain that connection even while powered off (and this doesn’t noticeably impact battery life). So as long as you’re within range of the camera, you can launch the app and pretty quickly be off and browsing your images from your phone, even with the camera on a shelf across the room.

The 15-45mm F3.5-6.3 kit lens is, in my experience, solid if not extraordinary. It offers a very useful zoom range while being very compact, but you’ll want to pick up one of Canon’s or Sigma’s EF-M mount prime lenses for lower light shooting or more options for photographic creativity. The Canon EF-M 22mm F2 in particular is a gem, being tiny, affordable and optically great; the tradeoff is that it’s a bit slow to focus. But it should really be the first addition to any Canon EOS M user’s kit.

For this image, I set the camera on Manual to control exposure, then pulled the flash back and bounced it off the ceiling to get some more even lighting on my subject’s hand. I then processed the Raw file in-camera to boost brightness and saturation just a bit.
Canon EF-M 22mm F2 | ISO 6400 | 1/125 sec | F2

Though controls are sparse, the excellent touchscreen interface makes up for this somewhat, and is likely to be appreciated by those moving up from smartphones. And the inclusion of a pop-up flash that you can pull back to bounce at the ceiling is a nice touch and opens up some creative possibilities for users to grow into as they become more comfortable with the camera.

What needs work

For its intended audience of novice users and social media mavens, I think Canon needs to tweak its full auto mode. This mode generally gets you good exposure and autofocus (and you can always tap the screen to choose your subject if the camera doesn’t get it right), but the M200 just hates using fast prime lenses at their widest apertures. This basically means that the M200 produces grainier photos in low light than it should, and doesn’t give you the shallow depth-of-field effect you might be after.

I like this photo, but I’d like it even more if the camera’s Auto mode chose some different settings.
Out-of-camera JPEG.
Canon EF-M 22mm F2 | ISO 6400 | 1/80 sec | F2.8

In taking the above image of a mostly static subject in low light, the camera should have selected F2 and not F2.8. The ISO value would be lower, so there’d be less grain and better detail on my subject. So if you’re eyeing some faster prime lenses for the M200, be aware you may want to switch into a more advanced exposure mode to take full advantage of them.

Other than that, Canon claims that the EOS M200 is now able to charge over USB, but I still haven’t found a charger that will do so: we suspect it needs a ‘Power Delivery’ compatible charger, but Canon hasn’t confirmed this. The autofocus system is generally capable, but it still lags and hunts a bit more than I’d expect it to in low light.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
Canon EF-M 22mm F2 | ISO 6400 | 1/80 sec | F2.8

Burst shooting speeds are, frankly, not impressive when focusing on a moving subject. Lastly, 4K video is nice-to-have, but the crop is limiting and almost begs for another lens, the Canon EF-M 11-22mm, in order to get a decent wide-ish angle of view – especially if you want to vlog. The crop also means that it’s using a smaller portion of the sensor, which will negatively impact image quality, especially in low light.

Conclusion

The Canon EOS M200 is, overall, a good camera. It’s one that I believe, as with its predecessor, is a bit more than the sum of its parts. For those that are more novice photographers, the M200 is a capable and affordable option that’s fun to use and churns out nice photographs without much fuss. Thanks to slower burst speeds and slightly hunty autofocus, it won’t be the best option for capturing fast-moving or unpredictable subjects like animated children: Sony’s pricier a6100 is a better bet there for some family photography.

It won’t be to the liking of every experienced photographer (Canon’s own EOS M6 Mark II is a better bet for that crowd), but I find the M200 to be a nice escape for when I want solid image quality without a larger camera to weigh me down.

If you’re looking for a small, casual camera that won’t intimidate either you or your friends, one with with good wireless connectivity for easy sharing, and you might even be interested in adding an additional lens or two down the line, the EOS M200 is a good bet.

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Check out how the EOS M200 in our studio scene on the next page

Scoring

Scoring is relative only to the other cameras in the same category. Click here to learn about the changes to our scoring system and what these numbers mean.

Canon EOS M200

Category: Entry Level Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR

Build quality

Ergonomics & handling

Features

Metering & focus accuracy

Image quality (raw)

Image quality (jpeg)

Low light / high ISO performance

Viewfinder / screen rating

Performance

Movie / video mode

Connectivity

Value

PoorExcellent

Conclusion

We think the Canon EOS M200 is one of the most approachable cameras for new photographers on the market today. It doesn't have the fastest burst speeds or the greatest video capture, but it has plenty of resolution, produces great images easily and just about fits in your pocket. Lastly, it's reasonably priced, and any additional lenses you might want for it are reasonably priced as well.

Good for

New photographers, those who want to explore photography beyond their smartphones, travelers looking for good image quality in a very small package.

Not so good for

More experienced photographers needing more hands-on control, those who need to frequently photograph fast-moving or unpredictable subjects.

79%

Overall score

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Sony a6100 review: Should it be your next family camera?

29 Oct

The Sony a6100 is a 24MP APS-C mirrorless camera, aimed squarely at beginners and people who want attractive photos but don’t necessarily think of themselves as photographers. A new, powerful autofocus system makes it one of the easiest cameras to use, if you just trust it to do its thing and concentrate instead on what you’re shooting.

The a6100’s specifications aren’t cutting edge, and it’s priced accordingly. But that simple, effective autofocus system means it makes it easy to get the photos you want, and hence, arguably, it’s better value than those less expensive rivals. On paper it looks a lot like the bargain-basement a6000 but in use this is a vastly better camera.

Our main doubts about the camera come if you want to get more involved in the photographic process.

Key features:

24MP APS-C CMOS sensor
Advanced AF system with highlight dependable subject tracking
1.44M dot OLED electronic viewfinder
0.9M dot LCD tilting rear touchscreen
Wi-Fi for image transfer to smart devices (with NFC for quick connection)
4K video capture
USB charging

The Sony a6100 has a list price of $ 750, a $ 50 premium over the launch price of the original a6000, which suggests it may take a similar low-cost position in the lineup, long term. It has a list price of $ 850 with the small but uninspiring 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 power zoom. A two-lens kit adds a 55-210mm zoom for an additional $ 250.

What’s new and how it compares

The a6100 contains many familiar components, combines them in a way that can be excellent as a family camera. After some initial setup.

Click here to find out the camera, its features and its rivals

Image quality

Improved JPEG color, a good sensor and sophisticated processing mean the a6100 delivers attractive images.

Click here to take a closer at the a6100’s images

Autofocus and Video

Autofocus is the camera’s great claim-to-fame, and its video is easy to capture.

Click here to read more

Conclusion

The a6100 has probably the most powerful, easy-to-use autofocus systems on the market. But there are a few too many inconveniences, we feel.

Click here to read what we found

Sample gallery

We think the a6100 can turn its hand to a bit of everything, see what you think of its performance.

Click here to see our sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Our Fujifilm X-Pro3 initial review: What’s new, how it compares

23 Oct

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The Fujifilm X-Pro3 is a 26 megapixel mirrorless interchangeable lens camera built around a clever optical / electronic viewfinder and designed to look like a classic rangefinder.

A low-resolution status panel on the back of the camera speaks to the underlying ethos of the camera, which we’ll look into in more detail on the next page.

Key Specifications

26MP APS-C BSI CMOS sensor
Optical/Electronic hybrid viewfinder
Fold down rear LCD
Rear-facing Memory LCD status panel
Titanium top/bottom plates
4K video at up to 30p, 200Mbps
11 Film Simulation modes, now with ‘Classic Neg’

The X-Pro3 will be available in a painted black version for $ 1799 or variants with a silver or black hardened, coated surface for $ 1999.

What’s new and how it compares

The X-Pro3 looks a lot like its predecessors except for one major change.

A new titanium top plate, rear ‘sub monitor’ and hidden flip-out LCD round out the major body updates.

Photo editor Dan Bracaglia took a pre-production X-Pro3 on holiday to Northern California. Here are his thoughts on the hidden rear screen.

The X-Pro3 gains the ‘Classic Negative’ film stimulation. Check out examples of it and more in our hardy samples gallery.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Review: Laowa 17mm f1.8 Lens with Micro-Four-Thirds Mount

22 Oct

The post Review: Laowa 17mm f1.8 Lens with Micro-Four-Thirds Mount appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.

The new Laowa 17mm f1.8 lens for MFT

There are a lot of gear reviews for new photography gear. Many focus on technical specifications and others focus on sharpness and precision of the optics. I had a chance to spend a few weeks with the Laowa 17mm f1.8 lens for Micro-Four-Thirds (MFT) mount. This is a bit of a different lens that requires a slightly different approach to a review. I am hoping this approach will help you decide if this is a lens for you.

The New Laowa 17mm f1.8 lens is a fully manual compact design with metal construction, a small metal hood and clear markings on the barrel

This lens fits 46mm threaded filters (common for MFT)

Technical Specifications

I will run through the technical specifications of the Laowa 17mm f1.8 lens as they have some interesting but limited impact on this review (aside from the price). As a 17mm lens on an MFT mount, this has a corresponding field of view that corresponds to a 34mm lens on a full-frame (FF) sensor (65 degrees). The lens has nine elements in seven groups with a seven-bladed iris. The filter diameter is 46 mm, and the weight is 172g. It is not weather-sealed, and the MSRP is $ 149USD.

Works great even in low light conditions

Practical details

Aside from the mathematics of technical specifications, I think a lens review should provide more practical details. Details that describe the intangibles about the lens. Things you only realize when you have the lens in your hand or on your camera.

Perfectly balanced with smaller MFT camera bodies like the Pen F

For starters, this is a completely manual lens with manual focus and manual aperture control.

It is a small but solid – really solid – lens with metal construction and even a small metal lens hood (not much shading from this guy). This lens does not feel plastic-y in any way shape or form. The movement of the aperture ring and focus control feels great, and the aperture ring has quiet click settings (it is not clickless but moves easy) and the markings on the focus ring are clear.

This lens feels like something from the best film era vintage lenses and is well-sized to match the size of smaller MFT camera bodies.

Works well with the Olympus EM5 MK II

Focal range

At 34mm FF equivalent, the Laowa 17mm f1.8 is a prime lens size that, along with a 50mm FF equivalent, should be in any photographer’s bag. Some famous photographers have operated with only lenses in this range. At a 34mm FF equivalent, it provides a relatively wide field of view and a more forgiving range for focus. Wider lenses tend to be more forgiving when trying to focus them. With the manual focus on this lens, not getting focus perfect can still result in usable images.

Because it has a wide field of view, you can get pretty close.

Once the focus is set, the lens performs well.

Sharpness

As for image quality, the lens does reasonably well. It is not the sharpest (even when you nail focus) and it is clear that when fully wide open, the lens is sharper in the center of the image but softer at the edges. Saying this doesn’t really describe the image results from this lens. The image is sharp where it needs to be and softer where is it okay to be softer. The look from the lens is great. In addition, the seven-bladed iris produces very nice starbursts when closed down for night shots of light sources.

Even with close-ups, there are little problems resolving the images and little vignetting.

The seven-bladed iris allows for very nice starbursts at night

Size

As for size and usability, this Laowa 17mm f1.8 lens fits smaller MFT bodies really well (like a Pen F) and looks a little dwarfed on a bigger body (like an EM1X). Not only does this lens fit well on smaller bodies, but it looks entirely old school like the cameras that are going for that stylistic approach.

I had many people asking me if I was shooting with a film camera when I had this lens on my Pen F. I seemed to reinforce this feeling when I tried to focus and take a photograph and took forever. This is not a run-and-gun lens.

The lens is small and can seem overly-small on larger MFT bodies

Old-school feel and slow approach to photography

I am old enough to have shot film with manual film cameras. I thought I had left that all behind to use all the technical horsepower in modern cameras to really nail technically-challenging circumstances trying to get the best images. As a consequence, I had forgotten about the slower process of taking photographs when all you had was a split prism and a needle for a light meter.

When you connect a manual lens on an MFT camera, you operate primarily with the histogram/light meter to get a good exposure. You have to think about ISO, shutter speed, aperture, and focus. It takes time.

Fun to experiment with when you have the time

Slow photography is like slow food

I remember years ago traveling in Italy and going to a slow food restaurant.

The whole concept with slow food is to make it more of an experience and to take time to savor the flavors and textures. I think shooting with a manual lens is similar. It means that you are shooting slower and have to think way more about your images – no run and gun.

Slow photography is forced on you when you shoot with this type of lens. With cell phones, you pull them out and shoot. You barely focus. There is no thought to the process, and maybe that means that people can focus on the subject matter of their images. However, at other times, it means that you really aren’t thinking much about the images you are taking.

Image: Despite being quite a wide lens, there is little obvious distortion with the Laowa 17mm f1.8...

Despite being quite a wide lens, there is little obvious distortion with the Laowa 17mm f1.8 lens.

Nailing focus

Trying to nail focus with a manual focus lens also means you have to slow down. Back in the old manual focus film camera days, you had split prisms and micro prisms in your viewfinder to help you get your focus right. These tools are not available on modern digital cameras.

However, with mirrorless bodies on MFT cameras, you have other tools at your disposal including magnification and focus peaking. I was able to custom set my camera’s buttons to allow me to set one button for magnification and another for focus peaking. It’s still not fast, but it worked fairly well.

Image: Even for moving subjects, such as from a balloon, once you have your exposure and focus set,...

Even for moving subjects, such as from a balloon, once you have your exposure and focus set, it performs like any other lens.

This magic of this type of lens is that you need to slow down and think about the image you are composing. You need to think about everything from ISO to aperture to shutter speed and finally focus. If any are off, you can instantly see that you have screwed up. If you think back to the film days, it wouldn’t be until you got your images developed that you would know you messed up. When I was using this lens, I knew immediately when I screwed up, even when I thought I had all the settings right.

Limited distortion even for buildings

That process of slowing down and understanding what you are doing was a great deal of fun. The lens was wide enough and fast enough (aperture wise, not in any other way) that I would feel comfortable taking only this lens out to take some shots.

Not for the faint of heart

Slow means you can’t shoot fast. This seems obvious, but when someone says to you, “take our picture, “…they pose and wait for you. This lens will not do that quickly, regardless of how good you are.

You can take portraits, but you need to plan the shots and be ready when the opportunity comes up. An old street photography trick used to be to set your exposure with an intermediate aperture, put your focus at 3 feet, and point and shoot. In practice, this is not quite so simple. Nailing the exposure is a little trickier because you need to be looking through the lens to get the exposure balanced.

This lens is great to travel with because of its width and small size

The Results

I really enjoyed the Laowa 17mm f1.8 prime lens. I have other similar prime lenses, but all are equipped with autofocus and electronic apertures. They also feel pretty plastic. They are more expensive, but sharper. This lens feels great, is super-solid, shoots well and needs lots of attention to your images. It forces you to shoot like a photographer. You feel like a photographer. It also makes you look like a photographer.

At $ 149 USD, the Laowa 17mm f1.8 lens is quite the value. My images turned out great and I fell in love with taking slower pictures again. I had a chance to slow down and smell the roses, or in this case, take more deliberate thoughtful images.

Would you use a lens like this? Share with us in the comments below.

The post Review: Laowa 17mm f1.8 Lens with Micro-Four-Thirds Mount appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.

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Olympus OM-D E-M5 III initial review

17 Oct

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The Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III is a 20MP Micro Four Thirds camera aimed at enthusiast photographers. It shares the same sensor, AF system and 4K-video capture as the flagship E-M1 II and E-M1 X, in a considerably smaller, lighter package.

It’s the first in the E-M5 line to offer on-sensor phase detect autofocus, which includes both face and eye detection modes. The updated AF system is complimented by a 10 fps max burst rate in AF-C. The camera also gets a new image stabilization system, an updated EVF and some small ergonomic improvements.

Key takeaways

20MP Four Thirds sensor
121-point autofocus system
50MP high-res shot mode
10 fps burst shooting with AF-C
Cinema (DCI) and UHD 4K video
Up 6.5EV of image stabilization (CIPA-rating) with supported lenses
2.36M-dot OLED viewfinder with 60 fps refresh rate
Extensive direct controls and articulating touchscreen
Weather-sealed body
In-camera USB charging
1/8000 sec mechanical shutter speed

The E-M5 III will be available at the end of November for a body-only price of $ 1,199.99, CAN $ 1,499.99 in either black or silver. It will also be available kitted with the weather-sealed Olympus 14-150mm F4-5.6 II for $ 1,799.99, CAN $ 2,249.99. At launch there will be a $ 300 discount off the price of that kit.

What’s new and how it compares

The E-M5 III is Olympus’ smallest, lightest 20MP camera. Here’s what else is new and how it stacks up against its peers.

There rear of the E-M5 III is larger unchanged, but some significant changes have been made to both the camera’s top plate and the EVF.

Photo editor Dan Bracaglia spent 48 hours shooting in the deserts of Southern, Utah, E-M5 III in hand.

Curious what kind of files the E-M5 III produces? Have a look at our vast sample gallery.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Posts Tagged ‘REVIEW’

Key Specifications

What’s new and how it compares

Body and controls

First impressions

Image quality

Autofocus

Video

Shooting with the X-Pro3

Conclusion

Sample gallery

The technical specs

What if you could shrink yourself?

Microscope mode

The problem with close-up photography

How “focus bracketing” solves the problem

Let the Olympus Tough TG-6 do the Photoshop work for you

Get in, the water’s nice!

A good motivator

Leave the Olympus TG-6 laying around

So tough I let the kids use it

Essential modes

Processing RAW files

Even heroes have a weakness

Lens Flare

Noise

Sharp in bright light

No control over shutter speed

The greatest weakness

DJI Mavic Mini$ 399 | www.dji.com

Key features

The minuscule Mavic Mini

The controls

What’s it like to fly?

Who’s it for?

Final thoughts

What we like:

What we don’t:

Sample images from this episode

Epson Perfection V600 key specs:

Getting the V600 set up

Scanning modes

‘Home’ vs. ‘Pro’ mode

Quality compared to photo lab scans

Medium format hiccups

The wrap

Introduction

Key specifications:

What is it?

What’s new

What works

What needs work

Conclusion

Scoring

Key features:

What’s new and how it compares

Image quality

Autofocus and Video

Conclusion

Sample gallery

Key Specifications

What’s new and how it compares

Body and controls

First impressions

Sample gallery

Technical Specifications

Practical details

Focal range

Sharpness

Size

Old-school feel and slow approach to photography

Slow photography is like slow food

Nailing focus

Not for the faint of heart

The Results

Key takeaways

What’s new and how it compares

Body and controls

Shooting experience

Sample gallery

DJI Mavic Mini
$ 399 | www.dji.com