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Posts Tagged ‘Photographers’

2 Important Skills All Photographers Need

11 Mar

The post 2 Important Skills All Photographers Need appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

important skills all photographers need

Do you know what are two of the most important skills all photographers need? Since photographers don’t usually apply for jobs with a traditional CV, we’re not really used to thinking about things like soft skills. Yet, we really should.

important skills all photographers need

As a photographer, you are very conscious of technical skills and you ‘sell’ them to the client. But what about soft skills? Usually, everything falls into the creative category, but learning to recognize individual soft skills can help you to improve as a photographer and grow your list of clients.

What are soft skills?

Soft skills are a list of personal competencies or attributes that impact the way you do your job. Because they come from a personal level, they are not necessarily job-specific. However, some are more important than others for each professional profile. Two important skills all photographers need are resourcefulness and flexibility.

A streak of bad luck during the shoot, or a slip of memory that made you forget some equipment, can happen to anyone. This is where soft skills kick in – how do you solve the problem? I’ll give you two examples where simple things can go wrong, and why these are important skills all photographers need.

Example 1: a broken tripod

You have a photoshoot where the composition was laid out considering a high point of view looking down on the subject. Unfortunately, the quick-release plate of the tripod brakes, what would you do? Problem-solving may lead you to change the settings to do the photo handheld, but sometimes you can’t.

Let’s explore some other ways to deal with it.

Resourcefulness

It means that you’re able to face a difficult and unexpected situation by using any resource you have at hand. In this case, you’ll need to find a steady support for your camera. Look around and find any stable thing that you can use considering the height you need to reach. You can use your equipment cases, or some boxes for example.

important skills all photographers need

Next, think about the angle you need to give your camera and find something malleable to put on top of the boxes. Most photographers have a sandbag to put weight on the tripod, you can use that. Otherwise, you can find a cushion, a bag of sugar, or anything you can find. This would potentially solve your problem with resourcefulness.

Flexibility

If there weren’t any resources available to solve the problem, or not in an acceptable way, then you need flexibility. This means that you have the ability and willingness to adapt to changing circumstances. For example, being open to change the aesthetics of the image by rearranging the composition and reframing it.

important skills all photographers need
1/125 f8 ISO 200

If you’re working with still life, products or food, you can even place the camera on the same surface as the subject. If it’s a portrait or a landscape, try placing your camera on the tripod without having to angle it.

Example 2: no flash trigger

A wireless flash trigger is a device that allows your camera to communicate with your flash so you can fire it in sync. Usually, it’s two pieces of equipment – the transmitter and the receiver. If you forget one of the pieces, run out of batteries, or it breaks, what can you do to trigger the flash?

Resourcefulness

Even if your set-up involves several flashes, you can use most speed lights and strobes in slave mode. This means that you only need to fire one flash and the others will react to it. So, which flash can fore without extra devices or cables? The one from your camera (if your camera has an onboard flash).

important skills all photographers need

Normally, you don’t want to use that flash to illuminate your scene, as it tends to be quite unflattering, but you can use it to trigger your other lights. Using a piece of cardboard, or a small box, block the front (and at least one of the sides) of the flash so that it won’t spill any light into your scene.

Leave open one side so that the light triggers the slave flashes.

Flexibility

Another possible solution is to fire the flash manually. In order to do this, you’ll need a longer shutter speed so you can react and fire it on time.

important skills all photographers need
1,6 sec f8 ISO 200

The last time I faced something like this, I started processing whatever I had shot before the trigger broke, this way the client didn’t feel we were just waiting around doing nothing and I used the time productively. If not, you’ll need to be open to reschedule or run to buy a new trigger (or batteries, depending on what happened). In any case, flexibility is key.

Conclusion

As you can see, soft skills are small things that you probably already have but never considered an extra asset. The important thing about identifying your soft skills is that you can improve on them.

Also, now that you know them, don’t be shy about letting your clients know about it. In the end, they want a photographer that gets the job done, no matter what. This is why resourcefulness and flexibility are important skills all photographers need.

Have you faced any scenarios where you had to think quick on your feet to get the job done? Share with us in the comments!

The post 2 Important Skills All Photographers Need appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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Are Professional Photographers Expensive?

05 Mar

I don’t think there is a professional photographer out there that hasn’t heard a potential client utter the words, “you charge how much?” or “what exactly do I get for that” or even “But all you do is push a button!” Yes, it’s true, any photographer worth their weight will seem expensive at first glance. Even I am guilty of Continue Reading

The post Are Professional Photographers Expensive? appeared first on Photodoto.


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A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time

05 Mar

The post A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

photographers-guide-to-buying-a-drone

In this photographer’s guide to buying a drone, I’ll share with you some invaluable tips for buying a drone for the first time.

Seven years ago, my employer wanted a photo of a local lighthouse from an elevated viewpoint. It sounds ridiculous now, but very early on a winter’s morning, I was loaded into a cherry picker with two cameras and hoisted 15 meters in the air to take photos. I’m a little bit scared of heights, so I really had to concentrate on getting the images and not looking down!

With the introduction in the last few years of many relatively low-cost good quality drones (also known as UAVs – unmanned aerial vehicles), that whole scenario seems laughable.

So why should you think about buying a drone if you haven’t already?

Here are some of the key considerations.

Image: By chance, I saw this boat sailing past when I was taking aerial images of fishing boats in Y...

By chance, I saw this boat sailing past when I was taking aerial images of fishing boats in Yamba. Taken with the DJI Mavic.

A photographer’s guide to buying a drone

Why buy a drone?

The main reason for buying a drone is the unique viewpoints that it will bring to your photography that you couldn’t achieve easily otherwise.

Sure, you can take elevated images from buildings, planes, helicopters – or even a cherry picker. However, those options are unlikely to be suitable or cost-efficient, depending on what you’d like to photograph. Having a drone in your kit opens up new possibilities and viewpoints like never before.

How else would you be able to take images from viewpoints like this? Boats at the seaside taken with the DJI Mavic Pro 2.

What kind of photographers would benefit from having a drone?

The short answer is – all kinds of photographers. I’ve seen or heard of aerial images from UAVs used in many industries.

Travel

Aerial images have been a stable of Instagram travel accounts for years now. Many Instagrammers take a compact drone with them on their travels to add to the range of shots they can take at a destination. They can use the images for both posting on social media or as deliverables for clients.

These images are often featured by large national and regional travel accounts to showcase destinations.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

Real estate photographers

Drones are widely used amongst real estate photographers and seem to be essential kits these days.

Aerial images are common on many listings here in Australia to show the boundaries and layout of a property and its location to nearby landmarks and amenities.

Fine art

This is a small but very well paid niche. Some photographers make thousands of dollars for breathtaking fine art aerial images taken with UAVs.

Stock photographers

There’s been an increasing number of aerial images and videos sold on stock photography sites recently. Using a drone is one way to add to the range of images you have for sale in your portfolio.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

A stock photography library I shoot for had a call out for images to illustrate bad parking. This is an image I sold them for the campaign.

Wedding and portrait photography

Aerial images are becoming increasingly popular for weddings, engagement shoots, and portrait sessions.

Images for your family archive

When I’m out and about taking photos for stock or travel, my family often accompanies me. I love taking aerial images of them; it certainly makes for a different type of shot in the family photo archive.

Tips before buying a drone

If you’re thinking about buying a drone, it pays to do your research first. Take a look at photos taken by drones on Instagram using hashtags such as #dronephotography, #dronestagram, and #droneoftheday.

Which make and model of UAV took these images? Looking at the photos will give you a good indication of the quality you can expect from each model.

Join some drone-related Facebook groups. Have a read through the discussions and ask questions. People will often be happy to share how they took a photo, what equipment they used, and what post-processing they did on the image.

Image: My daughter taking her board out for a surf in northern New South Wales, Australia.

My daughter taking her board out for a surf in northern New South Wales, Australia.

Try before you buy

Do you know a friend who has a drone? Ask if you can go along with them next time they fly it and learn the basics. You could also see if a local drone Facebook Group has meetups where you can learn the ropes. Maybe you’ll love it, but maybe you’ll hate it. Handy to know before you shell out for such a high cost.

Buy cheap, buy twice

I’ve heard many people buy a cheap toy drone to see if they’ll like it. The truth is, many of those cheaper drones are a complete nightmare to fly, and people are put off when it crashes. Typically, the more expensive a UAV, the easier it is to fly.

I’d recommend the “try before you buy” approach over this.

Which drone should I buy?

Ultimately, this is down to two different factors: the first is your budget, the second is what you want to do with your aerial images.

If you want to sell your images for stock, weddings, or fine art, go with the drone with the best image quality. However, if you want to travel with your drone, take family photos or only post to social media, perhaps you’d value a compact, lighter offering.

Pros and cons of some popular drone models

Below are some of the pros and cons of popular drones.

The Mavic Pro

The Mavic Pro is one of the best-selling drones of all time. It’s capable of taking photos in both horizontal and landscape orientations, which I found very handy when I owned it. The 12-megapixel camera has a fixed f/2.2 aperture, which compared to newer offerings, is a bit limiting. The good news is, you should be able to pick up one for a good price secondhand.

Image: DJI Mavic Pro

DJI Mavic Pro

Mavic Pro 2

I sold my Mavic Pro when they released the Mavic Pro 2. It has a significantly better 20-megapixel camera with a 1-inch sensor, which suited me better for taking larger images for stock libraries.

It also has an f/2.8-11 variable aperture, which gives you the potential to be more creative with your aerial images.

The one potential downside is that when facing the horizon, the gimbal doesn’t rotate the camera so you can capture vertical images like you can with the Mavic.

Read a full review of the Mavic Pro 2 here.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

The Mavic 2 drone.

Mavic 2 Zoom

The Mavic 2 Zoom came out at the same time as the Mavic Pro. Its main advantage over the Pro 2 is the ability to zoom the camera. Combined with movement, you can use this to achieve the dolly zoom effect. The downside is that its camera is only 12-megapixel, and the aperture is f2.8-3.8.

Read a review of the Mavic 2 Zoom here.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

DJI Mavic 2 Zoom

Mavic Mini

The Mavic Mini is a very small and light drone with impressive specifications. The Mavic Mini is the cheapest I’ve covered and would be ideal for many people wanting to take aerial images as they travel. It has a 12-megapixel camera. Unlike the others listed, it is only capable of taking images in JPG format for stills.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

DJI Mavic Mini

Also, read a review of the DJI Spark here, and the Mavic Air here.

What else do I need to consider?

Is your device up to scratch? To fly a DJI drone, you’ll need the DJI GO app on your smartphone or on a tablet.

Is your device good enough to support the latest app? You’ll need to look into this before you get started.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

Make sure your phone or tablet is powerful enough to run the drone app.

How will you edit your image?

If you’re a dPS regular reader, no doubt you’ll know all about the various ways you can post-process your images. I use Adobe Lightroom and occasionally Adobe Photoshop to edit my JPG and DNG drone images.

Insurance

UAVs are an expensive investment. Make sure that your camera insurance or home contents insurance adequately covers your new kit.

DJI have their own insurance product – DJI care. Whichever option you go for, make sure you understand the limits of the policies, so you don’t get caught out.

Flying legally

This is very important. You don’t want to find yourself on the wrong side of the law, especially if you take your drone overseas.

It’s good to learn all the rules when you’re considering buying one or while you’re waiting for it to arrive.

Rules differ from country to country, region to region, so always make sure you know the correct laws to fly at your destination.

For example, in Australia, you’ll need permission to fly a drone in a National Park in the state of New South Wales, but over the border in Queensland, you do not.

Image: Early morning view of South Stradbroke Island, Queensland. DJI Mavic.

Early morning view of South Stradbroke Island, Queensland. DJI Mavic.

Flying safely

Investing time learning the rules and regulations is just one part of things. You also need to learn to fly safely.

A major part of this is learning to identify hazards, whether they be trees, powerlines, buildings, weather, or as I found out once, a swooping bird in my local park.

It’s always a good idea to have a pre-flight and post-flight-check routine in place.

Conclusion

Buying a drone is a fantastic way of adding new viewpoints to your photography. The latest offerings from companies such as DJI have given photographers the ability to capture scenes that were not possible a few years ago without chartering a plane or helicopter.

However, there are many things to consider before you dive in. Consider what you want to use the images for, which model to buy, and how to edit your images. You also need to learn how to fly safely and legally.

I hope this photographer’s guide to buying a drone has been helpful if you are currently looking at adding a drone to your photography kit.

What other considerations do you think are important when considering buying a drone? Tell us below.

 

The post A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.


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Video: Three types of photographers, illustrated by the ‘The Grand Tour’ trio

28 Feb

During an episode in season three of The Grand Tour, hosts Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May take a moment to sit down and discuss the photography equipment they plan to bring to photograph wildlife in Columbia.

The exchange from the trio is right on course with what you’d expect from Jeremy, Richard and James, if you know them from their Top Gear days; the guys poke fun at three different kinds of photographers and the gear they bring along for photoshoots in a way only they can.

Richard opts for the full suite of Canon prime lenses and camera bodies, complete with strobes, filters, a ThinkTank photo belt and BlackRapid camera strap to carry it all. Jeremy, on the other hand, keeps it simple with what appears to be a Canon 5DS R attached to an EF 600mm f/4L IS II. James eschews the weight and debate by further streamlining his gear with a single Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II.

All in all, the two-minute segment makes for a few good laughs.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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A recent survey reveals wedding photographers spend only 4% of their time taking photos

22 Feb
A recent survey revealed wedding photographers spend roughly 4% of their time actually taking photos.

UK-based company Your Perfect Wedding Photographer recently conducted its fourth annual industry survey. Although more than 300 full-time wedding photographers participated in the survey, it’s important to remember that the findings reflect a small segment of local wedding photographers and the results may be more typical for a specific region rather than the industry as a whole. That said, there are a few interesting tidbits from the data.

Here are some key takeaways:

  • The average number of weddings captured a year is 28, down by 1 from 29 in 2018.
  • The average cost of a full day starting package is £1,590 ($ 2,063 USD), up by £30 from £1,560 ($ 2,023 USD) in 2018.
  • The average yearly marketing cost is £1,253 ($ 1,625 USD), down by £21 from £1,274 ($ 1,652 USD) in 2018.
  • 40% of Photographers use a Canon Camera, 31% Nikon, 22% Sony, 7% Fuji.
  • The average age of those surveyed is 39 years old, up 1 year from 38 in 2018.
  • 44% of respondents were women and 56% are men.
According to the survey, Instagram has become the leading social source for bookings – surpassing Facebook from last year.

Note that the above info only represents a fraction of the information revealed in the survey. Statistics on important items such as biggest expenses, average editing time, and percentage of wedding photographers that partake in online awards is also included.

Participants also shared their thoughts on this industry. ‘It’s getting more competitive with more people charging less. I would love for photographers to charge properly so the average moves from £1500. It has been this for so many years and hasn’t moved with inflation or other external costs increasing. My rate reflects my experience and the level of service but at a glance, it can be harder when someone is comparing primarily on price,’ laments one commenter.

On a more positive note, others elaborated on what they love about being a wedding photographer. ‘The wedding photography industry is more exciting than ever at the moment with amazing new talents shining through all the time. There is also a growing movement away from the staged, fake “traditional” wedding photography towards the documentary style, real and genuine moments that weddings are really all about. Artistic storytelling is becoming more mainstream and expected at last and not just a slogan on photographers’ websites,’ exclaimed another participant.

You can find the entire survey here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Opinion: New rules proposed by the FAA are a threat to drone pilots – including photographers

15 Feb

The FAA is proposing new rules related to flying drones in the US, and if you fly drones – including for photography – these rules WILL affect you. In this article, I’ll look at the implications of the proposed rule changes and how you can comment on them before the FAA makes them final.

The day after Christmas, the drone industry was finally gifted the long-awaited Notice of Proposed Rulemaking (NPRM) for the Remote Identification of Unmanned Aircraft Systems (drones), and what the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) presented was a shock to many commercial and recreational remote pilots, alike. The government agency completely ignored recommendations from all 74 industry stakeholders that make up the Aviation Rulemaking Commitee (ARC), which is concerning.

The drone industry needs Remote ID, the concept that every drone should have a digital license plate, to move forward. Having a uniform system in place to identify unmanned aerial vehicles in national airspace is imperative for the safe operation of every aircraft sharing the skies. It will also enable more complex operations including flights at night, over people, and beyond visual line of sight (BVLOS). Remote ID is a step in the right direction but, unfortunately, the FAA has proposed costly, privacy-violating rules that will at first stifle, and then eventually crush, the potential of a burgeoning industry.

The FAA is proposing new rules related to flying drones in the US, and if you fly drones – including for photography – these rules WILL affect you.

I’m not going to summarize every section of the 87-page (the original was 319) document in one article as it goes far beyond the scope of what most DPReview readers want to digest. Instead, I’ll cover some of the main points of concern and, finally, offer suggestions and resources for leaving an effective comment for the FAA if you’re one of the nearly 1.2 million registered drone users in the U.S. If you’re prepared to make your voice heard, comment HERE.

What will potentially change?

The NPRM proposes that both manufacturers and UAS (unmanned aerial system) operators will be responsible for meeting Remote ID requirements. The main purpose is to connect a UAS with its owner. Capabilities are divided into two categories – “Standard Remote ID” and “Limited Remote ID.”

  • Standard Remote ID ‘would be required to broadcast identification and location information directly from the unmanned aircraft and simultaneously transmit that same information to a Remote ID USS (UAS Service Supplier) through an internet connection.’ Most flights would be conducted under these terms.
  • Limited Remote ID ‘would be required to transmit information through the internet only, with no broadcast requirements; however, the unmanned aircraft would be designed to operate no more than 400 feet from the control station.’
New rules under consideration by the FAA would have wide implications for drone operators in the US, including a requirement to broadcast personally identifying information when flying.

Let’s pause for a moment and acknowledge that a drone will need a SIM card to operate under these new guidelines. Leading carriers such as AT&T, Verizon, and T-Mobile charge between $ 10 and $ 20 per month to add a device like a tablet or smartwatch to your data plan, so we can probably expect similar costs for a drone. If you’re operating more than one UAS, like many small businesses and some hobbyists, this adds up quickly. Major carriers also have gaps in the data coverage they provide. Many rural areas don’t get any signal, which will effectively limit where drones can be operated.

Key data, including the control station’s latitude, longitude, and altitude can be accessed by anyone from takeoff to landing, not just law enforcement. This is concerning because the general public will know exactly where a remote pilot is operating. If someone gets angry or doesn’t understand the nature of drone operations, they could easily harass or even attack the pilot. What’s more, the FAA estimates the remote pilot will be paying an additional fee of $ 2.50 per month to be connected with a USS.

The general public will know exactly where a remote pilot is operating. If someone gets angry or doesn’t understand the nature of drone operations, they could easily harass or even attack the pilot.

Drones need to be equipped with Remote ID in order to comply with the above draconian restrictions. The FAA is confident that most commercial aircraft can easily be outfitted to meet new requirements. Where things get especially cost-prohibitive involves equipping hobbyist or ‘amateur-built’ unmanned aircraft with Remote ID capabilities. The FAA doesn’t provide a solution for an affordable Remote ID kit. This means any UAS that is at least 50% constructed by a person will either need an independent solution constructed by that builder (a process that could potentially cost upwards of tens of thousands of dollars) or it will be restricted to an ‘FAA-approved identification area’ or FRIA.

Remote pilots have 12 months to suggest areas where drones can operate without Remote ID. The issue is many of these designated areas could be located tens to hundreds of miles away from your front door. There will likely be a charge similar to the Academy of Model Aeronautic’s (AMA) $ 75 current annual membership fee. Speaking of, the FAA also wants to overhaul the current registration process by requiring hobbyists individually register each drone instead of as a pilot. Some hobbyists own dozens of model aircraft. At $ 5 a piece, registration fees could potentially add up to hundreds of dollars.

What can you do?

The FAA is gathering comments from the public until March 2nd. The good news is, officials are required to read each and every one submitted by the deadline. However, if you take the AMA’s terrible advice, cut and paste one of their boilerplate comments into the form, and pass it off as your own, it will be disregarded. Unfortunately, I’ve already seen too many of the 12,000+, and counting, comments start off with ‘I am writing in response to the FAAs notice of proposed rulemaking on remote identification of unmanned aircraft systems (UAS). I am deeply concerned…’ Please, do not do this. Take the time to craft an original response.

Image shared with permission from Ryan J. Latourette

As I mentioned earlier, I am basically summarizing some of the more pertinent concerns this NPRM brings up. If you’re looking to leave an impactful comment, I highly recommend checking out this in-depth resource from Pilot Institute. Skyward, a drone operations management platform, has a group of policy experts answering common questions in a webinar scheduled for Tuesday, February 18th. Joining drone-related Facebook Groups and forums and asking for guidance is another avenue to pursue, especially if reading and interpreting a lengthy legal document feels like a cure for insomnia.

It’s important to remember that this is a proposal. Nothing has been finalized. This is why every person that flies commercially, or for fun, must comment. It will still take the FAA several years to implement any changes. The more we, the public, can convince them that drones are beneficial, and provide viable alternatives to what has been suggested for Remote ID, the better chance we have of devising solutions that will work out for everyone.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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7 Mistakes Beginner Photographers Make The Camera Can’t Be Blamed For

10 Feb

The post 7 Mistakes Beginner Photographers Make The Camera Can’t Be Blamed For appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

7-mistakes-beginner-photographers-make

There are many mistakes beginner photographers make. It’s healthy to make mistakes so long as you learn from them. Be willing to understand why your photos are not turning out how you wanted them to. Don’t be quick to blame circumstances or your camera gear when you mess up.

Here are some common beginner photographer mistakes you can’t blame the camera for.

1. Poor composition

Poor composition is one of the main mistakes beginner photographers make. Not getting close enough to your subject, results in having too much unnecessary space in your pictures.

Sometimes being too close can ruin a composition too. Are you cutting off your subject’s feet?

Be mindful of what’s inside your frame. Ask yourself if everything you see is relevant to the picture you are taking? If it’s not, fix the mistake. Move closer, zoom or change your position.

Leaving excessive space above a person’s head is the most common compositional mistake I see beginner photographers make. Often what’s above a person’s head is not relevant to the photograph. Get closer or tilt your camera angle down to minimize this space.

mistakes beginner photographers make

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

2. Rushing your photography

Take your time, and you will take better photos. Being impatient will never make you a fabulous photographer. Whatever style of photography you engage in, being patient will benefit you.

Grabbed moments don’t often capture the best photographs. Of course, there are exceptions, but typically it pays to prepare yourself and anticipate action before it happens. Doing this, you can set your camera and line up your composition.

Using manual mode will help you slow down. You will visualize that you are photographing differently. This is because you are forced to think more about every aspect of taking your pictures.

During our photography workshops, I love to teach people how to slow down by using manual mode. Most people I teach develop their skills quickly. Their photos are well exposed and composed because they are working more slowly.

mistakes beginner photographers make

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

3. Distracting backgrounds

Having distracting backgrounds is another mistake beginner photographers make. It’s easy to concentrate on your main subject and not see what’s behind them until you look at your photos later.

When you do see that you have a distracting background, there are several options to avoid this.

  • Use a longer focal length lens.
  • Move your subject somewhere else.
  • Change your camera angle or location.
  • Use a wide aperture to blur the background.

A longer focal length lens will reduce the amount of background you see. Move back from your subject and use a longer focal length. You will see the background differently than using a wider lens.

Moving your subject or your camera location will change what’s behind your subject. Sometimes you will not be able to move your subject. When you can’t, you’ll have to move. This sometimes means you need to compromise with the lighting or composition.

Blurring a background can sometimes be the best way to avoid distractions. You’ll need to open your aperture wide to achieve this, except when you are using a long lens or focusing very close to your subject.

Young Woman in the Park mistakes beginner photographers make

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

4. Not looking for alternative angles

Taking a picture from the first angle you think of, is not always going to make the best photo. This is another common mistake beginner photographers make.

Move around – even a little. Shift your camera from side to side. Tilt it higher or lower. Pay attention to the relationships of elements in your composition as you do this. At times, even a very slight alteration of your camera angle will result in a more striking photograph.

Always consider taking both a vertical and a horizontal perspective with your camera. When you can’t make everything fit the way you want, use a Dutch Tilt. Turning your camera to an off-kilter angle to accommodate your subject can work very well.

When you find something interesting enough to photograph, take more than one or two frames. Looking at a subject from different angles will help you visualize it in fresh ways. I think one of the advantages of using prime lenses is that you are more likely to move about to change your composition. You cannot stand in the same spot and zoom, so you will be more inclined to seek out different points of view.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

5. Not giving people enough direction

How often do you avoid giving directions to the people and have them pose awkwardly? These are common mistakes beginner photographers often make.

Communicate well with the people you photograph. Talk to them about what you are doing and how you want them to look in the photo. Start with some easy, relaxed poses so they’ll be more confident with you.

If you leave them to come up with poses on their own, they may not be very interesting.

People will feel better when you give them direction, particularly if you do so with relaxed confidence. Be clear about what you want them to do and speak to them politely.

Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

6. Failing to relate to your subject, whatever you are photographing

When photographing people, it’s important to develop a rapport with them. Give them instructions so you can get the photos you want. Moreover, connecting with these people.

If you spend your time looking down fiddling with your camera settings, your subject will most likely feel awkward. You might want to adjust your camera settings, so they are technically perfect. But when you fail to relate to your subject, you will not capture the most interesting photo.

This is most important when you’re photographing people, but not exclusive. Whatever your subject, you’ll make more appealing photos when you include feeling.

Think about why you are photographing something.

What attracted you to take these pictures? How can you incorporate this feeling into the photos you take?

Many beginner photographers will find this challenging. However, as long as you are aware of how you relate to your subject and seek to develop this, you will become more skilled at it.

Muddy female Ceramic artist

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

7. Being fearful to take photos

Many beginner photographers will hesitate to go after the pictures they want because they are fearful.

If you want to photograph something dangerous, where there’s a high degree of risk, being fearful is natural and healthy. For example, it wouldn’t be wise to get close to a bear cub or a poisonous snake in the wild. These situations require fear to motivate us to keep our distance.

Not photographing people because you are fearful that you might impose is entirely different. You can’t know how someone will respond until you ask if you can take their photo. It’s taken me years to learn this, and still, at times, I hesitate.

Tame the negative, fearful thoughts in your head. When you see something you want to photograph, consider the reason why and how you can. Don’t be consumed by thoughts and excuses of why not and how not.

Being committed to the ideas you have about the photos you want to capture will help you develop your personal photography style.

Chiang Mai market porter

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Conclusion

Mistakes beginner photographers make can be very frustrating. When you take your time and review the photos you take, you’ll see how to improve and not keep making the same mistakes.

Moreover, look over the photos you take each time you load them to your computer. This is most helpful when you have not deleted the ‘duds’ off your cards before uploading.

When you see your best and worst photos side by side, this can help you grow as a photographer.

mistakes beginner photographers make

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Are there any other mistakes that you have made as a beginner photographer that you’d like to help others learn from? If so, please share them with us in the comments section.

The post 7 Mistakes Beginner Photographers Make The Camera Can’t Be Blamed For appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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The Photographer’s Ephemeris app updated with support for what3words system

09 Feb

The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE), a mobile app that enables photographers to plan outdoor shots based on natural lighting conditions, has been updated with support for ‘what3words’ location tagging. With this system, photographers can tag a 3m x 3m (approx. 10ft x 10ft) area that is assigned three words by the what3words system.

The idea behind what3words is that it is easier to use than typical latitude and longitude coordinates, which involve long strings of numbers that can be difficult to accurately return to. The assigned words are completely random and are presented in a format like ‘jump.house.nine.’ Every spot on Earth has been assigned a three-word location tag.

The TPE app has been updated with support for this system so that photographers can save their favorite locations using what3words and lookup shared destinations using the same location tag format. The option to enter latitude and longitude remains. Users can now access what3words tagging in the iOS and Android versions of the app.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm pulls controversial X100V promo video due to the featured photographer’s method

07 Feb

Days after it launched its new X100V compact digital camera, Fujifilm has pulled one of the promotional videos it published to showcase the new model. Some viewers have criticized the intrusive shooting style used by Tatsuo Suzuki, the photographer featured in this particular video. Others have praised his work, saying his habit of jumping directly in front of subjects is a legitimate part of his art.

Fuji’s promotional video includes several scenes of Suzuki has he captures images on the street, a process that, at times, involves stepping into someone’s path and putting his camera directly in their face. Some subjects are seen being forced to quickly sidestep to avoid the photographer; some look surprised or distressed about the encounter.

Though Fujifilm pulled the promotional video, FujiRumors managed to acquire and publish a copy of it. The action starts around the 0:45 mark.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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What is Ambient Light in Photography? An Explanation for Beginner Photographers

17 Jan

The post What is Ambient Light in Photography? An Explanation for Beginner Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

what-is-ambient-light-in-photography

Have you ever wondered what ambient light in photography means? You may have heard phrases such as “capture the ambiance,” “allow ambient light,” and have wondered how to do that. This article explains exactly that!

So let’s get started.

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f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/60th

Simply stated, ambient light means the light already available in the space before you add any other lighting. Yes, any light already available and that could be many types!

Types of ambient light in photography

1. Natural light from outdoors

The first type of ambient light in photography is natural light from outdoors. This is the daylight that comes through side windows, ceiling windows, and open doorways.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 6400, 1/60th (This was shot on a very dark and overcast winter day in a north-east facing kitchen)

Compare the two images above and below. The image above was taken using purely natural light from outdoors whilst the image below incorporated neons, lamps and spotlights.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 4000, 1/60th

2. Natural light from indoors

Candle lights and the glow of light coming from fireplaces are natural lights that can already be indoor sources rather than the natural sunlight coming from outdoors.

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f/5.6, ISO 1600, 1/60th

 

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f/5.6, ISO 1000, 1/60th

3. Artificial lights in the home

This is a range of lights commonly seen in homes and spaces. It includes ceiling down-lighters, spotlights, ceiling pendants, chandeliers, table lamps, floor lamps, neon lights, lights from mirrors, fluorescent lights, and wall sconces.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 6400, 1/30th

Which light/lights do you require?

In photography, the question is, what light is needed to achieve the image the photographer wants to capture? I dare say there are no hard and fast rules as the success of an image depends on getting the correct lighting combination required, regardless of the type of lighting.

Let’s explore some lighting scenarios in various spaces.

Portraits

Just like any type of lighting, whether it be natural or artificial, ambient light is just one option for photographers.

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Left: f/2.8, ISO 1000, 1/100th  Lens 24-70mm Right: f/4, ISO 400, 1/125th with off-camera flash

In portraits, ambient light could be purely the sunlight coming through a side window. To shoot this, a photographer would only need a camera. And, if it helps to achieve the image, a few accessories such as a reflector, a diffuser, and a backdrop – or use an existing wall.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

Left: f/2.8, ISO 1000, 1/100th  Lens 24-70mm Right: f/4, ISO 400, 1/125th with off-camera flash

Conversely, the photographer may choose not to use ambient light at all and solely utilize electronic flashes or vice versa in the same space above.

Sunlight from windows is not usually strong (depending on the size of windows and the position of the sun). It’s definitely not as strong as electronic flashes can be, so sometimes there is no need to block it out fully. Electronic light can cancel out any natural light from the windows or can add a touch of light to any ambient light where needed. The outcome depends on the settings used by the photographer.

The images on the left above have been shot using natural light filtering through the diffused window and a reflector to increase the shadows. The images on the right have been shot using electronic flash in a softbox. Here is an article on how to achieve both set-ups. My typical settings for portrait shots are around f/2.8 – f/4, ISO 200 – ISO 400, SS 1/100 – SS160.

Events

Ambient light is your best friend when it comes to events. Weddings and parties are often busy and buzzing with people. Here in the UK, space for large equipment at such events is not always available and often the photographer has to rely on just a camera and a speedlight to capture these events.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/2.8, ISO 3200, 1/100th  Flash power 1/32 Lens 24-70mm

Letting the ambient light in is key to capturing the ambiance of the room and the atmosphere of the party. This means allowing background lights such as fairy lights, festoon lights, wall sconces etc to seep into the image.

The resulting look has depth rather than a flat dark backdrop. My typical settings for events range between f/4 – 5.6, ISO is rather high especially indoors in dark areas around 3200 – 6400, SS rather low around 1/60 – 100.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/100th  Lens 70 – 200mm

The last thing a photographer wants to do is to kill any ambiance by using a strong flash to mitigate low light – especially in events where dry ice is used to create smoke effects and various colored lighting for a party atmosphere.

You don’t want to completely obliterate these just to light your subjects’ faces.

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f/8, ISO 2000, 1/30th, Lens 24-70mm, off-camera flash

Balancing speedlight flash power and shutter speeds is key to achieving images like these as well as incorporating existing ambient light.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/125th, Lens 24-70mm with off-camera flash

You can read more about dragging the shutter here, a technique used often to produce these images.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 2500, 1/60th,  Lens 70 – 200mm with off-camera flash and on-camera flash

You can use ambient light in the background to create silhouettes.

In the photo below, there was no light whatsoever on the balcony. I used the light inside the building to create a silhouette of one of the guests. This was an unposed shot so it was a rather hasty one.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/11, ISO 2000, 1/200th,  Lens 24-70mm

Interiors

Most photographers and magazines require natural light only in the interiors images they use.

Most often this would need a tripod and the use of slow shutter speeds to mitigate dark areas in the space that need capturing. But if the space is characterized by light features such as neon and lamps that make the atmosphere of the room, then I’m for capturing these with the lights on too.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 2000, 1/100th,  Lens 24-70mm

In my opinion, it is necessary to be selective with the amount of artificial ambient light to allow in a photographic composition to ensure a harmonious and natural-looking image.

More importantly, it is a must to edit out the lights that are unnecessary in the space for the image you want to achieve. Below are three different lighting set-ups in one space. All three dramatically change the look and feel of the same room.

My typical settings for interior shots depend on the time of day and how much natural light the room gets but range between f/5.6 – f/8, ISO is quite high around 2000 – 4000, SS usually really low around 1/30 – 60 or 100 depending on light availability.

On the photos below, the top photo utilized only natural light. The photo in the middle had all sorts of lights going on like festoon, lamps, fairy lights, candlelight, and neon but without the main ceiling chandelier, which is very bright. The third photo had the chandelier switched on on top of everything else, but because it got too bright, it killed the ambiance in the room.

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f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/80th,  Lens 24-70mm

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f/5.6, ISO 4000, 1/80th,  Lens 24-70mm

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f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/60th,  Lens 24-70mm Highlights taken down in editing.

I lean towards a selective mixture of lighting in my interiors.

Some areas are so hard to capture. For example, really dark areas where there is no ambient light at all and using a long shutter speed will overexpose the areas with light and correctly expose the unlit area.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 2500, 1/60th, Lens 24-70mm

Of course, this can be rectified by bracketing and compositing in Photoshop. But I don’t always want to be doing that! Besides, I think adding some form of ambient light brings some charm in. Take these photos above and below, for example, illustrating this point.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 6400, 1/30th,  Lens 24-70mm

Color temperature

One of the most common problematic issues when using mixed lighting, especially when including electronic flash into the mix, is color temperature disparity. Natural light from sunlight is usually around 5600K range, while tungsten lights indoors are usually around 3200K.

This means that when shooting outdoors, you need to set your white balance to around 5000 – 5750 Kelvin. That way, the resulting image looks similar to what you see with the naked eye. If you were to set the white balance to 3000K, for example, everything will look very blue (nothing worse than a white wedding dress looking blue!).

The same is true when shooting indoors with tungsten or incandescent lights on. The temperature required to shoot this image is around 3200K, but if you shoot it with the white balance set at 5650K, you will end up with an image looking very orange.

dps-ambient-light-in-photography-beginners-guide-tutorial

f/5.6, ISO 3200, 1/80th,  Lens 24-70mm

The most important thing to remember is to shoot with the correct white balance setting.

However, when using mixed lighting, you will still get color disparity. Here are three ways to solve this, depending on what you require for your images.

  1. You can adjust the white balance in post-production (shoot with a gray card or specified color temperature in your white balance)
  2. Use gels for your artificial lights to match the ambient temperature
  3. Change the bulbs in your indoor lamps to match the sunlight temperature and then adjust everything evenly in post-production if required.

As for me, I try to match what I see in real life to the outcome of the images. Then they are warmed up in post-production for a natural color with the added touch of a film look to best capture what my eye sees.

I hope this little article has helped you in your understanding of ambient light in photography as well as balancing color temperatures when dealing with mixed lighting.

If you have any tips to add about ambient light in photography, do share in the comments below.

The post What is Ambient Light in Photography? An Explanation for Beginner Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.


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