RSS
 

Posts Tagged ‘Photo’

How to Merge Photos in Affinity Photo: A Step-by-Step Guide

16 Dec

The post How to Merge Photos in Affinity Photo: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

merge photos in affinity photo

If you want to merge photos in Affinity Photo, the process is surprisingly simple. But there are a few tips and tricks that will help you merge two or more photos – and help you make adjustments so your final image looks just the way you want it.

Digital imaging allows for endless manipulation and combining of photographs. Having a clear idea of what you want to achieve will make for a more efficient workflow. If you’re more interested in messing around and experimenting with how you can merge photos in Affinity, give yourself some time to play around. The possibilities are endless.

Getting started with merging photos may seem daunting. But the tools in Affinity Photo are designed to help you merge photos easily. The process can be completed quickly or it can take ages, depending on the photos you choose and the degree of detail you want.

Merge photos in Affinity Photo
Here’s a Tuktuk driver leaning on his vehicle in Khao San Road, Bangkok. This part of the city is very popular with budget travelers and is known for its bars and cheap accommodations.

What is a photo merge in Affinity Photo?

A photo merge in Affinity Photo is the combination of two or more images to create a new one. You can merge similar or very different images. 

For instance, I love creating photomontages. This involves merging many photos to create a single, cubist-like picture.

Merging several near-identical photos with different exposure values is known as high dynamic range (HDR) blending. You can also take a series of photos to make a panoramic image and merge them in Affinity Photo. These are very specific merging techniques that will not be covered in this article – but you will notice there are options under the top File menu for these functions.

In this article, I’ll take you through a step-by-step workflow for how to merge two photos in Affinity Photo. This will be helpful if you have two similar images you want to combine into one final, great-looking result.

For example:

If you’ve taken some portraits and your subject has blinked in many of the photos, you can use this technique to select their eyes from a photo where they are open and merge them with photos where their eyes are closed. That way, you can combine the best pose and facial expression with the best shot of your subject’s eyes.

two photos merged of a woman blinking
© Kevin Landwer-Johan | Nikon D800 | 85mm | 1/800s | f/2.8 | ISO 400

How to merge photos in Affinity: A step-by-step guide

Now let’s take a look at how to merge two images in Affinity Photo, starting with:

Step 1: Select your photos

One of the most critical aspects of merging photos in Affinity is selecting suitable images. This depends on what your aim is. You may want to create a very realistic-looking merge, or you might want to make an image that is a complete fantasy. 

Knowing what you want to achieve with your merge project will guide you in selecting photos. Picking photos taken with the same or a similar focal length lens is important when you want to achieve a realistic look. Trying to combine one photo taken with a 20mm lens and another with a 200mm lens will not look natural.

Photos taken from a similar perspective are also easier to merge for a more natural look. If you have one image taken from a low angle and the other taken looking down from above, then it will be very difficult to merge them so the final image looks realistic.

Lighting is also an important consideration. Having one of your photos taken in the shade and the other in full sunshine will make it more challenging to combine them for a natural-looking result.

To keep things simple, I am using two photos taken with the same lens and at the same location from a similar perspective:

Tuktuk driver in Bangkok for merging
This Tuktuk driver photo will be used for the background.
Nikon D700 | 20mm | 1/250s | f/5.6 | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan
guy with a flaming wallet for merging
This guy with a flaming wallet will be merged with the background image.
Nikon D700 | 20mm | 1/125s | f/4 | ISO 400
©Kevin Landwer-Johan

Step 2: Combine and size your images

Select the photo you want as the foreground. Copy and paste it onto your background image. 

If one of the photos is bigger than the other, you’ll need to resize it. Select the Move Tool from the Tools panel (or tap the “V” key to select it).

Then click on the layer you want to resize in the Layers panel. Click and drag a corner of the bounding box that surrounds the photo. If you are resizing the background layer, you’ll first need to check the padlock icon in the Layers Panel to unlock it.

You can reduce the opacity of your top layer as you resize and position your photos. Drag the slider in the Layers panel down to about 50%. This makes it easier to see when your photo is the right size and in the best location. Then turn the opacity level back up to 100% again.

Affinity photo screen grab

Step 3: Mask out unwanted content

Using the Selection Brush Tool (“W” on the keyboard), carefully select the areas of the foreground photo that you want to keep. This tool will auto-select based on contrast. So where there are elements with little contrast between what you’re selecting and the background, you may have to manually refine your selection.

Zoom in on problem areas and reduce the brush size, then select with precision. In places where the selection accidentally covers an area you don’t want to select, press and hold the Alt key (Option on a Mac) and paint over the area to deselect it.

Finally, look over the entire edge of your selection to ensure you’ve only selected areas that you want to be selected.

Once you’re satisfied with your selection, click the Refine button in the Tool menu above the image. A dialogue box will appear with various options, all designed to help you refine your selection. Use the various sliders to make adjustments. How much you need to move the sliders is somewhat based on the size and resolution of the photos you’re working on.

When you’re finished, click Apply.

At the bottom of the Layers panel, click on the Mask Layer icon. This is a light rectangle with a dark circle in it. The unwanted parts of your image will become masked out. You can make further alterations to this layer mask using the Brush tool. To remove more of the image, paint with a black brush. You can switch to a white brush to restore the areas you painted out.

Affinity photo screen grab illustrating refining a selection

Step 4: Make further adjustments

Now your two images should be merged and looking more how you want them to.

However, depending on the photos you’re working with, you may still want to make some changes. If the lighting in both photos is different, you can use a Linear or Radial Gradient filter to add light. 

In my example, I used a Blur filter on the background image to help create a sense of depth. To do this, select Filters>Blur>Gaussian Blur from the top menu. Move the slider until you have a satisfactory amount of blur.

I also used a Levels adjustment on my background layer so that it better matched the tones of my foreground photo.

This step can be endless. There are many adjustments you can make to get your two photos looking as similar or as different as you like.

merge photos in Affinity screen grab

How to merge photos in Affinity: conclusion

You can merge photos in Affinity Photo with great ease and effectiveness.

Note that having a clear idea of what you want to create helps speed up the process of merging images. When you are not sure of the final outcome, you can spend endless hours experimenting until you get a result you are happy with.

Practice with the various tools and learn how to use them well. Duplicating your layers and preserving the originals is a good safety step. If you’ve duplicated your layers and hidden them, you can always revert back to the original if you make a mistake or overwork a layer.

Have fun while you learn to merge photos in Affinity. Take your time, experiment, and be as creative as you like!

The post How to Merge Photos in Affinity Photo: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Merge Photos in Affinity Photo: A Step-by-Step Guide

Posted in Photography

 

Weekly Photo Challenge – Landscape 2020

12 Dec

The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Landscape 2020 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

We’ve done ‘Landscape’ before now, but after Darren posted this over on our Facebook page, and with the number of awesome replies, I thought it might be a nice time to see what landscape photographs you’re taking, around where you live, in 2020.

Make sure you tag your photograph #dPSLandscape2020 if you post on social media

If you haven’t had a look at the images that jumped out at us from our November Challenges, take a look over here, and see all of the previous challenges HERE.

Weekly Photo Challenge - Landscape 2020

We want to see your ‘landscape’ and for some, that might be the confines of your house or your local area, you can interpret the theme to suit your environment, or you can wander out into a forest – take a moment, get outside and make your landscape photograph.

Make sure you tag your photograph #dPSLandscape2020 if you post on social media

Great! Where do I upload my photos?

Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Landscape 2020 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Weekly Photo Challenge – Landscape 2020

Posted in Photography

 

Stellar Photo Recovery Software Review: An Easy Way to Reclaim Your Precious Photos

07 Dec

The post Stellar Photo Recovery Software Review: An Easy Way to Reclaim Your Precious Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Stellar photo recovery software review

Have you ever accidentally deleted photos or videos from your memory cards? Or, even worse, have you ever formatted your card, and only then realize it contained valuable photos or videos? 

It happens to the best of us. 

In fact, if you’ve never experienced either of the above situations, consider yourself lucky. Because while digital files are convenient, they’re all too easy to lose – and if you don’t have the right recovery software, those files will be gone forever. 

That’s where Stellar Photo Recovery comes in.

Stellar Photo Recovery software review

You see, Stellar Photo Recovery offers an impressive set of DIY recovery tools for photographers and videographers; according to the website, you can recover almost any file on almost any device. And you can purchase a package that lets you repair corrupted files, which is tremendously useful for situations where your photos or videos have been damaged. 

But how does Stellar Photo Recovery perform? Does it work as well as advertised? And how do you use it for file recovery? 

That’s what this article is all about. 

In it, I put Stellar Photo Recovery to the test, using some formatted memory cards of my own. 

And I share all my findings with you. 

So to find out whether Stellar Photo Recovery is a worthy purchase…

(Spoiler alert: The software works incredibly well!)

…keep reading.

Stellar Photo Recovery: Why might you need it?

Stellar Photo Recovery is a DIY recovery package, designed to help you find and recover lost photos, videos, and audio files.

But why, specifically, might you need Stellar Photo Recovery? 

Imagine you’re out taking pictures and fill up several cards. You go home, download all the photos to your storage drives, and then – as many photographers do – format every card in-camera. 

Moments later, you feel a dawning sense of horror, as you realize that you failed to transfer the photos from one of the now formatted cards.

At this point, your hard-earned photos are deleted, the card has been wiped, and your only real option is recovery software. 

That’s just one of the many ways you could accidentally delete photos and videos. You could also format a hard drive and realize it had photos you needed. Or you could stick a full memory card into your camera while out shooting, format it, then suddenly realize that you hadn’t transferred the previous photos over to your storage drives. Or you could clear a flash drive, then realize it had valuable media that you needed for a client. 

You could also end up with corrupted files thanks to faulty memory cards or old drives or viruses.

If you’ve been doing photography for a while, then you’re probably aware: 

This sort of thing happens all the time. If it hasn’t happened to you yet, then it will, because it’s just the nature of having lots of easy-to-wipe memory cards. You’ll make a mistake. 

And when you do, you’ll want to have software like Stellar Photo Recovery. 

Right off the bat, you’ll be impressed by the sheer volume of scenarios Stellar Photo Recovery can handle. You’ve got the option to recover: 

  • A whole host of image file formats, including Canon RAW files, Fujifilm RAW files, Sony RAW files, Nikon RAW files, Olympus RAW files, Pentax RAW files, Panasonic RAW files, JPEGs, TIFFs, GIFs, PNGs, and PSDs, plus quite a few others
  • Lots of video formats, including MP4, AVI, MPEG, AVI, 3GP, and so much more
  • Audio file formats, including MP3, WAV, MIDI, M4P, and AU

And you can do your recovery on a bevy of storage devices, including CF cards, SD cards of every kind, XQD cards, flash drives, HDD drives, and more (even if the drives are encrypted). 

Plus, it doesn’t matter whether you’ve deleted individual files or simply formatted the storage device, because Stellar Photo Recovery can deal with both.

Honestly, if you’ve lost any type of photo, video, or audio to deletion or corruption, Stellar Photo Recovery Software probably has you covered.

Using Stellar Photo Recovery: A simple, three-step process

Using Stellar Photo Recovery is incredibly easy. 

Once you have the software downloaded on your computer (you can grab your copy here), you’ll simply need to follow a three-step process:

Step 1: Select the drive in need of recovery, and hit “Scan”

When you first open Stellar Photo Recovery, you’ll see a list of all accessible drives:

Stellar Photo Recovery software review folders

By placing a checkmark next to the location you need to recover files from, you’re telling the software where to look. To save time on the scan, I’d recommend checking only the precise drive/memory card on which your files originally existed. 

Then hit Scan:

click on "Scan"

As soon as you’ve done this, the software will start checking your drive for any and all media. This might take a while, depending on the size of your drive; I used a 32 GB SD card for my test, and the scan lasted around 30 minutes. 

Waiting while the computer scans

You can minimize the window while you wait and leave it scanning in the background. 

By the way, if you’re in a hurry, you can always shorten the scan time by heading into the Advanced Settings menu:

click on the "Advanced Settings" icon

And clicking on File List:

Check the file type you're after

You’ll then see a list of all file types you can recover. By checking the files you’re after, you’re telling Stellar Photo Recovery where to focus its search.

Select the file types you'd like to see

 Neat, right?

Step 2: Go through your recoverable files and select the ones you’d like to restore

Once the scan is complete, the software will report the number and size of the files it found:

Stellar will show you what it found when scanning

Then you can go through the folders and preview files for recovery (not all file types will offer previews, but my Olympus RAW files showed up nice and clear). 

Stellar Photo Recovery software review RAW files

By putting a checkmark next to a file, you indicate that you’d like to recover it:

check off photos to recover

So make sure you do this with all relevant files.

Step 3: Hit “Recover” and watch as your images appear!

Once you’ve checked off all the files you want to recover, hit the Recover button:

Select "Recover" to get your photos

Then select the folder where you’d like to save the recovered files:

Choose where to save your recovered photos

Finally, click Start Saving

Click "Start Saving"

You can then watch (in the Saving Data window) as your files are recovered and saved. This isn’t a long process; each RAW image I recovered took about one second to save, which means that you can recover quite a few images in a minute or two.

Recovering images

Then, if you go to the folder where you’ve saved the files, you’ll see them completely intact and unharmed. 

Images I recovered

One nice additional feature here is the ability to go back and recover different photos, even once you’ve done one recovery sweep. So if you accidentally recovered the wrong files, you can just go back into the list of recoverable media and check off a different set of files – without having to scan the drive again.

What’s even nicer is that you can save your scan data when you exit Stellar Photo Recovery. So if you’re tired of recovering images and want to continue later, you can work from a previously-scanned drive without needing to go through the whole process again. 

Stellar Photo Recovery: Performance

Speaking as a longtime photographer, I’m always worried about losing my photos. 

Yet I’ve never managed to find any recovery software that I really, truly trust, especially because there’s all sorts of dodgy options out there that aren’t worth the money. 

But I am genuinely so impressed by Stellar Photo Recovery. It’s easy to set up, easy to use, and it works amazingly well. I tested it out on a 32 GB SD card that was full of Olympus RAW files. The card had been formatted twice in recent days – but Stellar Photo Recovery managed to bring back every photo from before the second wipe, and what appeared to be all 400+ photos from before the first wipe, all in perfect condition.

The most difficult thing about Stellar Photo Recovery is the waiting – as I explained above, the scan takes some time. But you don’t have to babysit the software, so you can easily get the scan started, go do something else, and come back in 30 minutes or so. 

Now, I do think it’s important to be up front, here:

I didn’t try to restore any corrupted files, and my sense is that Stellar Photo Recovery works here but won’t always do a perfect job. So it’s certainly worth using for that sort of thing, but while recognizing that repairing corrupt files is inherently difficult and might not happen.

Also recognize that the more you overwrite files, the more Stellar Photo Recovery will struggle to recover the originals. 

In other words:

Don’t take pictures, format the card, take more pictures, and only then try to recover the originals; instead, make sure any accidentally-formatted cards are immediately put aside for recovery. 

If you don’t do this, your results will vary, depending on the amount of new photos you took.

Make sense?

Ultimately, I’m now a huge fan of Stellar Photo Recovery. And I guarantee it’ll be the software I turn to the next time I lose images. 

Stellar Photo Recovery: Pricing

There are three Stellar Photo Recovery packages (all are available for both Mac and Windows): 

The Standard package, which costs $ 39.99 for a one-year subscription, and offers complete recovery capabilities, but cannot repair corrupted files. 

The Professional package, which costs $ 49.99 for a one-year subscription, and offers complete recovery capabilities plus the ability to repair corrupted photo files. 

And the Premium package, which costs $ 69.99 for a one-year subscription, and offers complete recovery capabilities, the ability to repair corrupted photo files, plus the ability to repair corrupted video files.

Stellar Photo Recovery software review pricing

Which should you get?

If you’re just looking to recover deleted files, the Standard package will work just fine. 

But if you have corrupted image files, then the Professional package is a must. 

And if you have corrupted video files, you’ll want to go for the Premium option. 

So make sure to grab your version of Stellar Photo Recovery software here.

Who should get Stellar Photo Recovery?

Stellar Photo Recovery is a fantastic option for photographers and videographers looking to recover files. 

It’s simple to use, its performance is impeccable, and I can’t recommend it enough. 

So the next time you find yourself needing to perform file recovery or repair…

…turn to Stellar Photo Recovery.

Stellar is a paid partner of dPS.

The post Stellar Photo Recovery Software Review: An Easy Way to Reclaim Your Precious Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Stellar Photo Recovery Software Review: An Easy Way to Reclaim Your Precious Photos

Posted in Photography

 

Weekly Photo Challenge – Light Painting

05 Dec

The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Light Painting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

We had some great photos for last week’s ‘Wheels’ challenge, this week it’s a bit harder and maybe new for some, we’re going to try our hand at light painting!

Missed a challenge? Go back and do them all! Click Here

Weekly Photo Challenge - Light Painting

Not sure what light painting is, think it’ll be too hard? there’s a full blog post here that we’ve written to help – have a read and then come back and submit your photo!

SEE THE HOW-TO POST HERE

Make sure to include the tags #dPSLightPainting if you share your photo on Instagram or Facebook.

Weekly Photo Challenge - Light Painting

Great! Where do I upload my photos?

Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on FlickrInstagramTwitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSWheels to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

Follow us on Instagram?

The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Light Painting appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Weekly Photo Challenge – Light Painting

Posted in Photography

 

How to Use Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color and Tone Wheels for Amazing Results

04 Dec

The post How to Use Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color and Tone Wheels for Amazing Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate Color and Tone Wheels

Color editing is an essential part of nearly every great photo.

Unfortunately, adjusting the colors in most post-processing programs is difficult – or downright impossible.

One impressive exception to this, however, is ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021, which offers two powerful tools for color editing:

  1. The Color Wheel
  2. The Tone Wheels
ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021 Tone Wheels

And that’s what this article is all about. I’m going to show you how to use the Color Wheel and Tone Wheels to apply gorgeous color adjustments to your photos. You’ll discover how the Wheels work, what they can do, and how to get a professional look in your own images.

Let’s dive right in.

The Color and Tone Wheels: overview

ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

The Color and Tone Wheels come as part of Photo Studio Ultimate 2021, a recently updated, all-in-one photo editor that you can grab on ACDSee’s website for $ 8.90/month (you also have the option to purchase a lifetime license for $ 149.99).

ACDSee pricing

While Photo Studio Ultimate 2021 offers a lot of upgrades over its predecessor (including some major speed improvements that you’ll want to see for yourself), one of the biggest features for amateur and professional photographers is the set of color editing tools: the Color Wheel and the Tone Wheels.

Here’s a quick peek at the Color Wheel:

Color Wheel

And here is the Tone Wheels panel:

Tone Wheels

Together, these two tools can revolutionize your photo editing workflow.

And here’s why:

With the Color and Tone Wheels, you can make both broad and targeted adjustments to the colors in your images. You can shift, brighten, and saturate colors selectively, you can push colors into the shadows, highlights, and midtones separately, and so much more – all with a few easy-to-use wheels and sliders.

As someone who’s a bit color-obsessed, I’ve used quite a few color adjustment tools in many different post-processing programs. But I can honestly say that Photo Studio Ultimate’s version is one of the best implementations I’ve ever seen (if not the best). Yes, the wheels are amazingly powerful, and they should offer any amateur or professional all the color adjustment power they need. But they’re also just so fun and intuitive to work with, which is what’s really sold me on this program.

ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021 sample

Now let’s take a look at how you can actually use the Color and Tone Wheels for great results (and if you’re feeling intimidated, don’t be – I’ll give you simple, easy-to-follow instructions!).

How to use the Color Wheel to selectively adjust colors in your photos

You’ll find the Color Wheel in Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Develop mode, which you can select in the top-right corner of the screen:

the Develop mode in ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

Then open the Color Wheel panel on the left-hand side, and you’ll see a color wheel with a series of sliders below it:

Color Wheel panel

Here’s what you need to know:

The color wheel itself lets you select the colors you’re targeting in the photo.

And the sliders below it allow you to adjust the targeted colors.

So once you have your Color Wheel panel open, here’s what I recommend you do:

Step 1: Select the colors you want to adjust

Selecting the colors you’d like to adjust pretty easy, and there are a couple of methods you can use.

First, you can simply hover your cursor over different parts of your photo, and watch as it turns into a dropper icon:

dropper tool

Then, by clicking once on the photo, you’ll select that color for adjustment.

So if you click on a pinkish-purple part of your photo, you’ll select all the pink-purple colors:

dropper example

And if you click on a yellow part of your photo, you’ll select all the yellow colors:

dropper example

Now, as soon as you click on a part of your photo, you’ll see the color wheel change. This is to show you the color range you’ve selected.

You can also use the display on the color wheel to either select colors (instead of the eyedropper), or to refine your color selection.

To select colors, just click on the relevant part of the wheel:

selecting a color on the color wheel

And to fine-tune the color selection, just narrow the range of colors on the color wheel – by dragging the edges of the selection inward or outward. That way, the adjustments you make via the sliders will affect a narrower or broader range of colors in your photo.

Here, I’ve narrowed the color selection:

narrow selection on the color wheel

And here I’ve broadened it:

broad selection on the color wheel

Also, if you want to get really picky with your selection, you can drag your color range upward from the center of the wheel:

selecting only saturated areas

And this will ensure you only select the more saturated colors.

You can also drag downward from the rim of the wheel to select only the less-saturated colors:

selecting only desaturated colors

By the way, if you want to see the areas you’ve selected displayed on your photo, just hit the Auto preview the selected range checkbox:

previewing the selection

Your selected colors will be highlighted on the image, while everything else will be grayed out:

previewing the selection

Cool, right?

Step 2: Adjust the colors using the sliders

Now comes the fun part:

Actually adjusting the colors.

While there are a number of sliders, I recommend you focus on three key options:

Hue.

Saturation.

And Brightness.

hue, saturation, and brightness sliders in ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

These are the main adjustments you’ll want to make (I use them on almost every photo I edit).

By shifting the Hue slider, you shift the hue of your selected color range. So if I select the pink colors in this flower photo and want to make them more purple, I can just push the Hue slider to the left:

shifting the hue

I can also make them more red by pushing the Hue slider to the right:

shifting the hue

Speaking more generally, the Hue slider is useful for situations where you want to separate colors to create contrast, or where you want to make colors more similar to add harmony.

(How do you know what creates contrast and what creates harmony? Look at the color wheel! Colors that are opposite one another are contrasting/complementary colors, whereas colors next to one another are analogous colors.)

While color contrast will generally create a more powerful, in-your-face photo, analogous colors can result in a more peaceful final image.

Anyway, once you’ve adjusted the hue, I recommend turning to the Saturation slider. This works the way it sounds: It lets you selectively boost or reduce the saturation of your selected color range.

So by selecting the yellows in the image below, then adjusting the Saturation slider, you can boost the yellow intensity:

shifting the saturation

Or you can dial it back:

shifting the saturation

In general, boosting the saturation of your main colors looks pretty good, as long as you don’t overdo it. That way, a few colors in your photo will stand out and keep the viewer interested.

However, it can also be helpful to reduce the saturation of colors that distract from the main subject. So if your photo includes a red “Exit” sign in the background, you might reduce the saturation of those reds to keep the viewer focused on the foreground.

Finally, I recommend experimenting with the Brightness slider. This allows you to adjust the brightness of your selected color range. So you can brighten up your selection to make it pop:

shifting the brightness

Or you can darken the selection down to make it less impactful:

shifting the brightness

Step 3: Create additional color wheels for further adjustments

While one color adjustment may sometimes be enough, you also have the option to create more.

Simply click the Plus icon:

adding color wheels

Then follow the previous steps all over again!

Also, to toggle the effects of the color wheels on and off, you can just check and uncheck the box above each color wheel icon:

viewing the effects of color wheels

How to use the Tone Wheels to produce beautiful color grading

The Tone Wheels panel is located just below the Color Wheel panel in the Develop mode of Photo Studio Ultimate 2021:

using the tone wheels in ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

Now, unlike the Color Wheel panel, you cannot select individual colors to adjust.

Instead, each of the three wheels corresponds to a different tonal range of your photo:

  • The top wheel corresponds to the highlights (the brightest tones)
  • The middle wheel corresponds to the midtones (the middle tones)
  • The bottom wheel corresponds to the shadows (the darkest tones)

And by adjusting the tone wheels, you change the color in the corresponding area of the image.

So by setting the Highlights wheel to yellow, your photo’s highlights will be tinted yellow:

adding yellow highlights

And by setting the Shadows wheel to green, your photo’s shadows will be tinted green:

adding green shadows

This is a fantastic way to add different looks to your images. For instance, you can create blue shadows and yellow highlights, which is a popular look on Instagram. Or you can make the highlights orange and the shadows teal, for a cinematic, movie-type result.

Now, the tone wheels themselves only allow you to select the hue and saturation of the color you’d like to add.

But by shifting the Brightness slider – found to the right of each wheel – you can also make the highlights, midtones, and shadows brighter or darker.

the brightness sliders

So how do you get great results using the Color Wheel panel? How should you approach this color adjustment tool?

Here’s what I recommend:

Step 1: Adjust the shadows

I like to start by adjusting the shadows in my images.

Now, you can choose your shadow color a few different ways:

One method is to select the Shadows eyedropper:

the shadows eyedropper

Then you can click on a part of your photo and the Shadows wheel will select its hue:

picking a shadow color

Alternatively, you can click around the wheel to select different colors:

clicking on the wheel

And you can further fine-tune the saturation with the left-hand slider:

using the saturation slider

Plus you can change the brightness of the shadows with the right-hand slider:

using the brightness slider

Personally, my favorite way to select colors is to use the wheel, but start by pushing the Saturation slider all the way up:

saturation pushed all the way to its maximum

That way, you can clearly see the effects of your color grade – and once you’ve chosen the right color, you can dial it back.

Also, while it’s always a good idea to experiment, the best shadow colors are generally cool – blues, greens, and purples.

I’d also recommend paying careful attention to the colors already present in your shadows – by matching the shadow color with already-existing colors, you can unify the darker parts of your photo and make it even stronger.

For this flower photo, I like blue-green shadows:

blue-green shadows example

Step 2: Adjust the highlights

Selecting a color for the Highlights wheel is just like selecting a color for the Shadows wheel.

You can use the eyedropper tool:

the highlights eyedropper

Or you can click on the wheel directly.

Of course, you can also fine-tune with the Saturation slider and the Brightness slider:

the brightness slider

Generally, you’ll want a warmer color for the highlights: an orange, yellow, or red.

It’s also a good idea to pay attention to your existing highlight colors. For instance, if your photo has a lot of warm sunlight, such as in the shot of the Black-eyed Susan flowers, you might want to accentuate the yellows with some nice golden highlights:

warmer highlights example

I’d also recommend looking at your shadow colors even when adjusting the Highlights wheel. For a nice result, you might choose a color that contrasts with the shadows to create a complementary color pair (as I discussed in the Color Wheel section, above).

Step 3: Adjust the midtones

Adjusting the midtones is a bit less common than adjusting the highlights and the shadows.

For one, if you adjust the midtones, your photo will often take on a more obvious tinted look, because we humans expect midtones to be more neutral compared to colder shadows and warmer highlights.

Plus, the midtones can correspond to skin tones, which you (generally) want to keep as natural as possible.

So I recommend you be careful when experimenting with the Midtones color wheel. If you do decide you want to make changes, I’d recommend keeping things closely aligned with the highlights, because too many colors in your scene will start to look messy.

Make sense?

As you’d expect, adjusting the midtones is just like adjusting the highlights and shadows. You have the Midtone color wheel that you can click on:

midtones color wheel

Plus your eyedropper:

midtones eyedropper

Which you can use to give your midtones a slight color grade!

ACDSee’s Color and Tone Wheels: the next steps

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to make pro-level color adjustments.

And with Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color Wheel and Tone Wheels tools, you have everything you need to take your color editing to the next level.

So make sure you grab ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021. It’s currently available for just $ 8.90 per month, or you can get a lifetime license for $ 149.99. And if you’re just interested in trying out the software, you can get a free trial right here.

ACDSee is a paid partner of dPS.

The post How to Use Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color and Tone Wheels for Amazing Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Use Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color and Tone Wheels for Amazing Results

Posted in Photography

 

The best Google Photo alternatives

15 Nov

The best alternatives for Google Photos

With news that Google will stop unlimited uploads to Google Photos starting June 15, 2021, many photographers are thinking about alternatives. While ‘free’ and ‘unlimited’ options are all but non-existent with Google Photos gone, there are plenty of options if you’re looking to get away from the Google ecosystem and don’t mind paying for either subscriptions or one-time purchases.

We’ve rounded up a few of the best alternatives, ranging from simple to sophisticated, and have summarized their features and functionality. While some of these services do offer free storage, most are limited by data or the number of files uploaded, and some require a subscription or purchase before you can even use them.

If there are other options we’re missing, leave us a message in the comments below and we’ll consider adding them to our list.

Apple iCloud Photos

Let’s get this out of the way first — iCloud Photos is clearly meant for people invested in the Apple ecosystem. While it is possible to use iCloud Photos to back up your images on Android and Windows devices, it’s not suggested. With that disclaimer out of the way, let’s continue.

Apple’s iCloud Photos service is effectively Apple’s version of Google Photos. It uses your iCloud storage space to automatically back up the Camera Roll on your iOS device to the cloud. Once uploaded, those images are accessible from all of your other iOS, iPadOS and macOS devices through the respective Photos apps, so long as you have iCloud Photos enabled.

Much like Google Photos, iCloud Photos will automatically recognize faces, intelligently tag your images for easy searching, show where images were captured on a map and even create ‘Moments’ that combine photos and videos together in easy-to-share collections. The best part is that it does all of this directly on-device, adding an additional privacy layer that Google Photos doesn’t offer.

The option to turn on iCloud Photos is inside the Photos section of the iOS Settings app.

As for determining how many photos and videos you can store, that will depend on how much iCloud storage you have. Every iCloud account is given 15GB, but beyond that is up to you, based on how much you’re willing to spend (and that 15GB is shared between all of your iCloud services). You can add an additional 50GB, 200GB or 2TB of storage for $ 0.99, $ 2.99 or $ 9.99 per month, respectively (Apple has a full support page dedicated to breaking iCloud storage prices down by region). Apple’s new all-encompassing Apple One subscription is another option for adding more storage to your iCloud account; and it even makes it possible to share storage across multiple iCloud accounts in the same family, which could help spread out the cost.

This isn’t the cheapest option by any means, but in terms of functionality, it’s about as close to Google Photos as you can get and if you’re already invested in the Apple ecosystem it should be an easy transition.

Photos (iOS/macOS app)

If you’re an Apple user, but prefer to keep your content local, another option is to use Apple’s Photos app without iCloud Photos turned on. The macOS Photos app will effectively work the same as if you were using it with iCloud photos, but this option would require you to store images on a harddrive connected to your computer. It also means that you won’t have access to all of your images on your iOS or iPadOS device when your storage fills up.

The workflow would look something like this: Capture as many photos and videos as you can on your iOS or iPadOS device, manually connect the device to your macOS computer and import the images from your mobile device into the macOS Photo app library. You would then have to remove the images from your mobile device to make space for more and repeat the process once your storage is once again full.

This isn’t the most convenient solution, as it doesn’t do everything behind-the-scenes as Google Photos and iCloud Photos does, but it is the most privacy-focused, as everything is local. It does still feature all of the same great tagging, location and ‘Moments’ functions as iCloud Photos though, and even has built-in services for making photo prints and books. Thanks to Apple’s extension integration, you can also edit photos using third-party software, such as Affinity Photo, Pixelmator, Skylum’s Luminar and more. Apple-focused website iMore has a great collection of the best photo apps that have support for Photos extensions.

Flickr

This one shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone. Flickr has been around for 16 years and was arguably the go-to services for storing mobile images until Google spun off Google Photos from its Google+ social networking site in 2015. Flickr isn’t mobile-specific, but its mobile app — available for both Android and iOS — makes it easy to sync your photo library on-the-fly.

Flickr has seen plenty of ups and downs since Yahoo! purchased it back in 2005, but since being purchased by SmugMug in 2018, the photo-sharing site has seen a steady improvement in features and functionality. It lacks the automated tagging and fancy AI-powered collection features Google Photos and iCloud Photos offers, but it still has tools to manually create collections, add tags, share albums and more.

For a while, when it was owned by Yahoo!, Flickr offered an incredible 1TB of free storage to everyone who signed up for a free account. SmugMug reversed that decision, presumably to reduce costs, limiting it to 1,000 images in total.

While that’s enough to get most people started, you’re probably going to need more storage if you’re using it to replace Google Photos. For that, you can pick up Flickr Pro, a premium version of the Flickr experience which not only offers unlimited full-resolution photos, but also removes all ads, shows detailed analytics of images you’ve made public and offers discounts on other photo products and services, including Adobe subscriptions, Peak Design gear, Pixsy and more.

Flickr Pro has multiple subscription options, including monthly, every three months and annually. These plans cost $ 6.99 per month, $ 18.99 every three months and $ 60 per year, respectively.

Prime Photos

Amazon’s Prime Photos is included with an Amazon Prime membership. The service is similar to Google Photos in that you can upload unlimited full-resolution photos to the cloud, organize your content, search by tags/locations/people, share your albums and even create custom photo products, including prints, books, mugs and more. Prime Photos has apps for Android, iOS, macOS and Windows computers, making it easy to upload photos from essentially any device you own.

One of the limits of Prime Photos is that you’re capped at 5GB for video uploads. With more and more phones shooting 4K video at increasing data rates nowadays, that 5GB of storage could be used up pretty quickly, so if you want all of your videos backed up to the cloud as well, Prime Photos might not be the way to go.

Still, if you’re an Amazon Prime member, it’s a benefit that’s there for you when you need it. Amazon Prime memberships cost either $ 12.99 per month or $ 119 per year. There is a free 30-day trial and multiple discounts, including a student discount that offers six months of Amazon Prime for free and an annual subscription cost of $ 59 per year.


Note: DPReview is a wholly-owned but editorially-independant subsidiary of Amazon

Plex

Plex is a multimedia server that makes it possible to self-host music, videos, TV shows and photos that can be viewed and played back anywhere in the world so long as the computer or network-attached storage (NAS) device you’re using to store your content is connected to the internet.

Plex itself is free to download and use. The process might sound complicated, but it’s as simple as downloading the Plex server app to your computer or NAS and pointing it to the specific folders with your media in it. It’s a fantastic tool for those with large movie and music libraries, but it also works great for managing personal photos and videos on-the-go.

Once the Plex Media Server app (available for both macOS and Windows computers) is installed, you can create various libraries using individual folders on a harddrive connected to your computer or the NAS you have the Plex Media Server app installed on. Once the Plex Media Server has a new library of images to work with, it will put them into a timeline and even organize your subfolders into albums if you choose to do so. Plex also offers an option to automatically add tags to images by letting it upload a small thumbnail of the image for analysis; if you don’t mind the privacy implications of this, the functionality is quite impressive and makes searching for images much easier.

The Android and iOS Plex Mobile app even have a built-in camera upload feature that will automatically take images and video from your mobile device and upload it to your home server, similar to Google Photos, iCloud Photos, Flickr and others. This can be done manually or behind-the-scenes and can be limited to just upload when you’re on Wi-Fi or also on LTE/5G if you don’t mind hitting your bandwidth cap.

Setting up Plex isn’t for novice users looking for a hands-off approach with minimal interaction. But if privacy is a concern and you want full control over every facet of your content, it’s hard to argue with the benefits Plex offers.

While all of the features mentioned above are free, Plex does offer a Plex Pass, which adds a handful of premium features for viewing, downloading and syncing your other media, as well as improved access to analytics for when other people — whom you’ve shared certain media libraries with — are accessing your data. Plex Pass costs either $ 4.99 per month or $ 39.99 per year. There’s also a Lifetime Plex Pass for $ 119.99, which will give you all of these features in perpetuity, even if the price increases down the road (spoiler alert: they usually drop the Lifetime option a good bit during Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales).

NAS Solutions

If you have a network-attached storage (NAS) device, there’s a good chance you can install your own, self-hosted photo storage solution. Support varies from company to company, but QNAP, Synology and Western Digital all have dedicated photo management programs that can be installed onto their respective NAS units.

These self-hosted solutions tend to be less fleshed out than their more commercial-oriented counterparts and oftentimes require a more hands-on approach, but if you want to ensure privacy and like the granularity of managing everything yourself and have the compatible hardware, these are available options.

Below are the photo management solutions offered by the various manufacturers. If you notice we’re missing one, leave a note in the comments and we’ll be sure to add it to the list.

Synology

Moments — Aside from a similar logo to Google Photos, Moments offers similar features as well. It not only supports live photos, 360-degree photos and more, it also automatically tags and groups images based on subject matter, date and location.

Photo Station — Unlike Moments, which seems to be more focused on mobile photographer, Photo Station appears to be more of a professional-oriented storage solution, with an emphasis on metadata, watermarking features and even galleries which can be shared with friends, family or clients.

Synology has a great overview of the two programs and how they compare with one another.

QNAP

A look at the Synology QuMagie photo app.

QuMagie — Defined as an ‘AI photo manager,’ QuMagie works similarly to Google Photos in that you can automatically offload photos and video from your smartphone using an accompanying app and have the content automatically analyzed for facial and subject recognition. It offers a timeline view, smart album features and has multiple sharing options for sharing one-off images or full galleries with friends and family.

Photo Station — It’s the same app that’s available on Synology NAS units, although there might be a slight difference in version numbers based on how often either NAS manufacturer updates the app.

Western Digital

Camera Backups — Western Digital doesn’t go into detail about its Camera Backups NAS app, aside from saying it ‘[backs up] photos and videos from your camera to the My Cloud system.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on The best Google Photo alternatives

Posted in Uncategorized

 

The Top Best Photo and Video Tools for Beginners

05 Nov

The importance of post-processing and editing in photos and videos cannot be overemphasized. For every great photograph, great view, lighting, and aesthetics, there is a precise amount of effort that was put in place to achieve that result that has become a focus of all eyes. A bulk of these efforts come into play in the post-processing aspect, editing in Continue Reading

The post The Top Best Photo and Video Tools for Beginners appeared first on Photodoto.


Photodoto

 
Comments Off on The Top Best Photo and Video Tools for Beginners

Posted in Photography

 

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 now available, includes Portrait AI, new selection tools and much more

03 Nov

After unveiling ON1 Photo RAW 2021 in September, ON1 has officially released the new software. ON1 describes the latest version of its flagship software a ‘hassle-free, professional photo organizer, raw processor, layered editor and effects app.’ ON1 promises its software is ‘perfect for those seeking an ultra-convenient all-in-one photo editing solution.’

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 includes numerous additions and improvements, including improved automatic AI adjustments, a new portrait editing workflow, improved color selection technology and much more.

The primary new feature is ON1 Portrait AI. This technology finds each face in a selected image and analyzes the photo to locate the eyes, mouth and skin to allow the user to make many quick adjustments, including frequency separation-based skin retouching and adjustments to lighting. ON1 states that ‘in a few simple clicks, you can quickly brighten up the eyes, whiten the teeth and make your subject glow with very little effort.’

Additional retouching tools added to ON1 Photo RAW 2021 include a new Spot Healing Brush tool. The non-destructive brush allows quick removal of dust spots, power lines and other unwanted objects from your image. With a new filter, you can also quickly change a specific color in your image. ON1 says you can use the new filter to change the color of objects such as eyes, flowers, buildings, clothes and more. A similar framework has been added to Photo RAW 2021 allowing you to quickly select a specific color to create a mask, allowing for very specific, localized edits to different parts of your image.

If you’d like to liven up your landscape images, AI Auto and new brush shapes allow the user to easily add clouds to a dull sky. Further, with the color selection technology in ON1 Photo RAW 2021, you can easily make selective edits to your sunrise and sunset images to bring out or add new colors to a scene.

The new version of the software includes workflow and usability improvements as well. With a new Full Screen Preview mode, you can view your image without any distracting user interface elements. You can also present selected images in a full-screen slideshow with user-adjustable settings. For users with large photo libraries, it is all too easy to accidentally import duplicate files or have a cluttered archive. With ON1 Photo RAW 2021’s new Smart Organize mode, the software can automatically locate duplicate images and clean up your files. You can also use this mode to track down all photos captured at a specific location. ON1 Photo RAW 2021 also includes the ability to batch process HDR and panoramic images provided the source image files are organized within subfolders.

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 can be used as a plugin across a wide range of supported software, including Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom, Affinity Photo, Capture One (coming soon), Apple Photos and Corel Paintshop Pro. Click to enlarge.

If Photoshop is an integral part of your editing workflow, you can also take advantage of ON1 Photo RAW 2021’s powerful portrait editing features inside of Photoshop by using ON1 Portrait AI as a plugin. ON1 Photo RAW 2021 can also be used as a plugin inside Lightroom, Affinity Photo, Corel Paint Shop Pro and Capture One (although this support is coming later).

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 includes support for new cameras and lenses as well. New camera support includes: Canon EOS Rebel T8i (850D), Canon EOS R5 (uncompressed image files only), Canon EOS R6 (uncompressed files only), Fujifilm X-S10, Leica M10-R, Nikon Z5, Olympus E-M10 Mark IV, Olympus E-30, Panasonic DC-S5, Panasonic Lumix DC-G100, Sony A7S III and the Sony A7C. New lens profiles include: Canon EF 85mm F1.4L IS USM, Canon G5 X Mark II, Canon RF 24-105mm F4 L IS USM, Nikon Coolpix P1000, Nikon Nikkor Z 50mm F1.8S, Nikon Nikkor Z 85mm F1.8S, Sigma 14-24mm F2.8 DG DN Art, Sony FE 35mm F1.8, Tamron 17-35mm F2.8-4 Di OSD, Tamron 18-400mm F3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD and Zeiss Touit 2.8/50M.

ON1 Photo RAW 2021 is available now. If you are an owner of a previous version of ON1 software, you can upgrade to ON1 Photo RAW 2021 for $ 79.99. New customers can purchase a perpetual license to ON1 Photo RAW 2021 for $ 99.99. There is also a bundle that includes an annual membership to ON1 Plus for $ 129.99.

If you subscribe to ON1 Photo RAW 360, which has plans starting at $ 7.99 per month, you will receive ON1 Photo RAW 2021 automatically. This also includes ON1 Photo RAW for Mobile. ON1 Photo RAW 2021 is compatible for Windows and macOS. You can learn more about ON1 Photo RAW 2021 and check out purchasing options by visiting ON1.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on ON1 Photo RAW 2021 now available, includes Portrait AI, new selection tools and much more

Posted in Uncategorized

 

A photo history quiz tests the impact of color on guessing when images were captured

29 Oct

Does how we place an image in history depend upon its presentation? A new quiz (and experiment) by Matt Daniels and Jan Diehm aims to test this question. The quiz, published on The Pudding, shows users a series of five images captured in the United States during the last century and asks you to estimate the year the photo was taken.

We recommend taking the quiz before reading the rest of this article to preserve the integrity of the data results.

The quiz shows some images in color, and others in black and white. In some cases, the black and white image has been digitally altered from its original color presentation. Daniels and Diehm want to know if users estimate the age of the same image in black and white as being older than that image in color.

The pair were inspired to construct the experiment after reading this tweet from Hannah Beachler, Academy Award Winning production designer. In her tweet, Beachler shared a series of color photos from the Civil Rights movement and posited that showing this important period in American History as digitally altered black and white images leads people to believe it took place longer ago than it did, which may very well impact the general societal conception of the movement, particularly among a younger generation.

Daniels and Diehm write, ‘How we view history is largely defined by the aesthetics we associate with each period. When you were dating the photos, you probably looked for context clues — what people were wearing, if there were any familiar buildings, and if you recognized any faces. You were probably also looking at color…we wanted to test how color does or does not warp our perception of time.’

On the results page, you see the five photos you were shown again, this time with the color original and black and white versions. You then see how your guess compares against the average guesses for both the color and black and white versions. For example, one of the images I was shown in color was captured in 1987. In this case, users shown the same photo in black and white guessed that it is seven years older than it is. This same gap was present in another photo I was shown in color.

You can also view an additional series of images others saw when they took the quiz. In some cases, users guessed that the black and white versions were upwards of 14 years older than the same image in color. In the case of every image, participants guessed that the black and white version was older.

The photo, typically visible to the left in color (top) and black and white (bottom) has been removed. Here we can see that the average guess when presented the black and white version of the image is seven years older than the same image in color. While the difference varies, this pattern is consistent.

Color photography has been around for a long time, since the 19th century in fact, but its mainstream adoption lagged far behind for decades. While The Milwaukee Journal first printed a color image in 1891, many newspapers were very slow to follow suit. Even in 1993, when The New York Times wrote ‘newspapers’ adoption of color nearly complete,’ there were still newspapers in North America printing exclusively in black and white.

Given the results of the quiz, it appears that the presentation of an image does impact how users place the photograph in historical context. Further study, repeated testing and peer review are needed to produce definitive conclusions, but Daniels and Diehm intend to build analysis in the future.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on A photo history quiz tests the impact of color on guessing when images were captured

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Color Management in Affinity Photo: The Ultimate Guide

28 Oct

The post Color Management in Affinity Photo: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Glenn Harper.

In terms of color management, no photo software is more complete than Adobe Photoshop. It’s easy to take this for granted until you switch programs (which you might do to escape subscription costs).

That’s why this article looks at color management in Affinity Photo, a popular standalone alternative to Photoshop.

Affinity Photo welcome screen color management in Affinity Photo
Affinity Photo welcome screen.

Choosing a working color space in Affinity (Photo Persona)

The working color space you use in an editing program is a bit like a box of crayons. You are defining how big a box you use to describe your photos. Even if you can’t see all the colors inside that “box” on your screen, sometimes there is good reason to use them.

Choose your working space based on the likely output for your images. For example:

  • sRGB = publishing and printing online
  • Adobe RGB = CMYK/inkjet printing
  • ProPhoto RGB = archiving and top-quality workflows

Each choice has its own pros and cons.

The ability to make this choice seems mundane until it’s taken away. Some programs force you to use sRGB as the working space, for instance, which means you forfeit many of the colors digital cameras can capture.

So what does Affinity give us here?

Setting the working color space in Affinity is simple, though it’s not labeled a “working space” as such. You simply go to Preferences>Color>RGB Color Profile. By default, this is set to sRGB. You can change it to suit your photography and the purpose of your photos, as detailed above. Do the same with the 32bit RGB Color Profile setting.

Color management in Affinity photo - color preferences
Color preferences in Affinity Photo.

Other color preferences

For most of us, the color preference settings in Affinity can be left alone, except perhaps for the RGB Color Profile option at the top.

That said, you’ll generally want black point compensation switched on. You also won’t want the software to convert all open files to the working color space. And it’s better to be warned if a photo without an embedded profile is being assigned the working profile. This gives you a heads-up that the color may display incorrectly.

Note that each of the above options can be ticked on and off in the Color Preferences window.

Monitor profile

Affinity Photo accesses the default monitor profile assigned in your operating system. Unlike Photoshop CC (but like Lightroom), I don’t believe you can confirm the prevailing profile via Affinity itself. Past and present monitor profiles appear in drop-down menus, but you should never select these; the monitor profile is automatically applied.

Your monitor profile is a key component of color management in Affinity Photo.

Display profile in Windows color management in Affinity Photo
Windows color management display settings. (You wouldn’t want to use sRGB as a display profile except for diagnostic purposes.)

Soft proofing (Photo Persona)

Soft proofing lets you preview the output color of your photos, whether the output is an inkjet printer, an RGB printer like those often used in minilabs, or even a specific audience (e.g., color-blind individuals). Soft proofing is available in Photoshop CC and Lightroom, but isn’t offered by many other programs. What about Affinity Photo?

In Affinity Photo, soft proofing comes in the form of an adjustment layer. You won’t find it among the menus at the top of the screen like in Photoshop. This is quite handy, because it’s so easy to flick layers on and off to see the effect of soft proofing and edits.

Color management in Affinity photo - soft proofing
Soft proofing using a photo lab’s profile.

Color blindness settings in Affinity are located among the built-in LUT adjustment layers. The LUTs help you visualize colors as seen by three types of dichromats: protanopes, deuteranopes, and tritanopes.

Affinity Photo color blindness LUTs color management in Affinity Photo
Tritanope LUT for visualizing a type of color blindness.

Simulating dynamic range

The simulate paper color option you get in Photoshop is already applied in Affinity. You can’t switch it off.

But you do have the option of switching on black point compensation. This reduces the dynamic range of your screen image to mimic the look of paper and ink. It makes the on-screen photo look duller. That’s why professional photographers sometimes avoid showing clients the comparison.

Affinity photo black point compensation color management in Affinity Photo
Blocked shadows caused by a lack of black point compensation (BPC). Usually, the effect is less drastic than with this Newsprint profile. Note that BPC has more effect with a relative colorimetric rendering intent. It has less of an effect or no effect with other rendering intents.

Gamut differences

The Gamut Check option in Affinity Photo shows you which colors are not reproducible with any given output. You can fiddle with the color of the photo until all color is in gamut, but you’ll often do more harm than good.

It’s better to rely on the rendering intent setting if you want colors to be as close as possible to the original. The relative colorimetric rendering intent keeps colors looking relatively accurate and shifts non-reproducible colors back into gamut, but you’re free to pick the rendering intent that looks best to you.

Affinity Photo gamut warning color management in Affinity Photo
The gray area tells me which area of red will be out of gamut (i.e., not reproducible on output). This is the Gamut Check option in Affinity soft proofing. Its practical use is somewhat limited, since you’ll often do more harm than good by trying to edit colors into gamut.

Creating a duplicate

When soft proofing, you may want to work on duplicate images side by side, so you can reference the original color and tone. In that case, create a duplicate image in Affinity by hitting Select All>Copy>New from Clipboard.

You can make adjustments to the soft-proofed image by adding extra adjustment layers to the background layer.

Duplicate images in Affinity photo side by side
Having a duplicate image is useful if you want to get your output looking similar. A relative colorimetric rendering intent does most of this work for you.

Convert and assign ICC profile settings

As with Photoshop, color management in Affinity Photo includes the ability to assign or convert ICC profiles. The distinction between these two is important. You’d assign a profile if the photo you open has no embedded profile; you give it one that looks okay. This only becomes permanent if you save changes to the image.

Color management in Affinity Photo - assigning the wrong profile
By assigning the wrong profile to this image, I’ve oversaturated the color and started to lose textural detail.

When you convert from one profile to the other and know what color space the image is in, use Convert ICC Profile. One way of confirming the current profile is to look for it in the drop-down list. It should be highlighted:

Color management in Affinity Photo - embedded profile - tagged image
The highlighted profile in the Convert ICC Profile window is the one currently embedded in the image.

The choice of rendering intents when converting between ProPhoto RGB, Adobe RGB, and sRGB working color spaces is usually moot. By default, these matrix profiles use a relative colorimetric rendering intent. The same situation exists in Photoshop.

Embedding profiles

The process of embedding ICC profiles is uncomplicated: You just check a checkbox. This is true whether you’re using Save As in Photoshop or exporting files from Affinity. In Affinity Photo, the Embed ICC Profile option is under the More heading when exporting. It’s checked by default.

There aren’t many instances when you’d deliberately leave the ICC profile out of images. Ironically, photo libraries and gallery websites might do this because the profile adds a couple of kilobytes to each file. In those instances, it’s an economical choice. In the past, photographers removed profiles to avoid confusing minilab printer drivers.

Embedding ICC profiles into images color management in Affinity Photo
Photos in large color spaces generally look okay in browsers as long as the profile is embedded. In Affinity, just as in Photoshop, embedding a profile is merely a matter of checking a box. Or not unchecking it.

Many people’s color woes when publishing photos online stem from not embedding the profile. This is less critical when publishing sRGB images, but photos in larger color spaces will often look dull unless the profile is present.

Simple features, such as the ability to embed or remove ICC profiles, are often absent in photo-editing programs. But here, Affinity keeps pace with Adobe.

Affinity RAW processing color (Develop Persona)

The Affinity Photo Develop Persona assigns the ROMM RGB color space to RAW files. ROMM RGB is the original name for ProPhoto RGB. This color space encompasses the output of a digital sensor, whereas smaller spaces such as Adobe RGB and sRGB do not.

Histogram comparison

In Lightroom, the histogram is in Adobe’s proprietary “Melissa RGB” space. This is the same as the Affinity histogram, but with an sRGB tone response curve applied, which adds slightly more editing headroom in the shadows. Extra marks to Adobe for cleverness.

The Affinity RAW histogram is more akin to that of Adobe Camera RAW. If you convert to ProPhoto RGB or ROMM RGB in Affinity, the histogram should stay the same.

Affinity histogram - Develop Persona
The sRGB profile here has pushed magenta hues off the left side of the RAW histogram. This is one reason to use larger color spaces when creating inkjet prints.

Recent versions of Lightroom enable users to preview the output histogram by turning on soft proofing. In other words, you’ll see which colors will be clipped, if any, in your destination color space. This might influence the edits you make prior to converting the file or even the color space you select. Does Affinity allow this?

If you select an output profile in Affinity Photo’s Basic panel, the histogram changes accordingly. With certain colors, you’ll see sRGB pixels move to the edges of the histogram. This tells you they are nearly or completely clipped. Running the cursor along the histogram shows you how many pixels are present at any level. ROMM or ProPhoto RGB is especially useful for preserving detail in bright yellows.

color management in Affinity Photo
Neither sRGB nor Adobe RGB can contain the yellows in a photo like this.

A common misconception

You needn’t convert RAW files to the same profile as your working RGB space in the Photo Persona. This is a common misconception. Affinity can open and handle images in any color space, just like Photoshop. The working space only represents your most commonly-used color container.

Color management in Affinity Photo: Conclusion

I’ve used many photo-editing programs, and some are more frustrating than others in terms of their color preferences and controls.

Color management in Affinity Photo differs from that in Photoshop, but it doesn’t cut any major corners that I’ve found. So use it with confidence!

And if you have any questions at all, be sure to leave them in the comments section!

The post Color Management in Affinity Photo: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Glenn Harper.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Color Management in Affinity Photo: The Ultimate Guide

Posted in Photography