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What you need to know about Panasonic’s LX100 Mark II

23 Aug

Hands-on with the Panasonic DC-LX100 II

Up until now, the Panasonic LX100 has been one of those cameras for which people have been long awaiting a successor – the Ricoh GR II is another example. While a GR III has yet to arrive, the LX100 II is here.

Panasonic hasn’t messed with success here, keeping the design, lens and trademark multi-aspect feature the same, while improving image quality and usability via a new sensor and touchscreen LCD, respectively.

Here’s a look at what’s changed – and what hasn’t – on Panasonic’s LX100 II enthusiast compact.

17MP from a 20MP Four Thirds sensor

The biggest improvement on the LX100 II is its new Four Thirds sensor, borrowed from the GX9 mirrorless camera. On the GX9 you get an effective resolution of 20.3MP, but on the LX100 II you only ever get to use a cropped region, giving you up to 17MP.

That’s because the LX100 II retains the hallmark feature that traces back to the DMC-LX3: the ability to shoot at multiple aspect ratios without changing the diagonal field of view. Whether you’re at 3:2, 16:9 or 4:3 ratio, the wide end of the lens will always be 24mm equiv. The aspect ratio can be quickly changed using a switch just behind the lens control ring, which makes it more likely that people will use this feature.

While we’re yet to test the LX100 II, you can get a feel for what its sensor can do by viewing the GX9 studio scene. Besides the increased resolution, Panasonic says that the LX100 II’s JPEG color rendering is improved, and based on some samples we’ve seen and our experience with the company’s recent models, that appears to be the case.

24-75mm equiv. F1.7-2.8 lens

Keeping with the ‘why mess with success’ theme, the lens on the LX100 II is the same as on its predecessor, and that’s good news. This is one of the fastest lenses on an enthusiast compact, with a maximum aperture range of F1.7-2.8 through its 24-75mm equiv. focal range. The lens has a total of 11 elements, including two aspherical ED and five ‘regular’ aspherical.

The advantage of having a large sensor and fast lens means that the LX100’s equivalent aperture is consistently 1/2 to 2/3-stop faster than its competitors. The benefits of that are more control over depth-of-field and less need to increase the ISO, since more light is reaching the sensor, helping to keep noise levels lower.

Direct controls

If you want a camera with traditional controls, the LX100 II is it. No more pressing buttons to change the aperture, shutter speed or exposure compensation – as with the original LX100, there are dedicated dials for each of those on the camera. The control ring around the lens can be used for adjusting other things besides focus, including zoom, ISO and white balance.

Panasonic has added more customizable buttons on the LX100 II, with a total of five physical and five on-screen. If you can think of the setting, you can probably assign to one of those buttons.

LCD and EVF

The electronic viewfinder on the LX100 II is the same as the one on the original model. It has an equivalent resolution of 2.76 million dots, which sounds high, but it isn’t really any better than a typical 2.36M-dot EVF, since it uses a field sequential system. Some people find field sequential displays irritating due to color tearing, which creates a ‘rainbow effect’ when you blink or pan the camera. The EVF has an equivalent magnification of 0.70x, which is quite large for an enthusiast compact.

The 3″ LCD has received some notable improvements. First, the resolution has been bumped from 0.92 million to 1.24 million dots. More importantly, it’s now a touchscreen, and Panasonic’s touch features are some of the best. They include touch-to-focus, menu navigation, image review, pinch-to-zoom and Touchpad AF. This last feature lets you use your thumb to adjust the focus point with your eye to the finder. A tab on the side of the screen holds five additional customizable ‘soft’ buttons.

4K video

As you might expect from a Panasonic, the LX100 II offers 4K video capture. This comes in the popular 16:9 UHD aspect ratio and shoots at up to 30 frames per second. A 43mm filter thread on the front of the lens allows the use of screw-on ND filters.

Sadly, the use of the processor from the GX9 means this footage is taken from a native 3840 x 2160 pixel crop of the sensor. This not only narrows the camera’s field-of-view to give a roughly 32-100mm equiv lens range, but also means using a slightly smaller sensor region than the 1″-type sensor found in rivals such as the RX100 V. Video quality, particularly in low light, will be reduced accordingly.

Video is limited to 15 minutes per clip to protect against overheating.

Special effects

The original LX100 has received the latest Photo Styles added on other modern Panasonic cameras. The one that stands out is L.Monochrome D, which is a high contrast black and white mode. If you wish, you can add a film grain effect that is quite convincing, as it uses a pseudo random pattern.

The 4K Photo feature has also been updated with the Auto Marking, Sequence Composition, Post Focus and Focus Stacking features.

For the first two, the camera captures a short video clip which is broken up into 8MP stills. Auto Marking looks for areas with a lot of motion, which it considers the interesting part of the burst. You can jump to those moments quickly using the touchscreen or dials. Sequence Composition lets you select stills from the 4K Photo burst and combine them into a single image, like so.

Post Focus and Focus Stacking work in a slightly different way. The camera again takes a short 4K video, this time scanning the entire focus range. Post Focus lets you pick the area that you want in focus, while Focus Stacking combines frames to bring the entire image into focus.

However, since these modes all come from the camera’s 4K capability, they’re all subject to the same significant crop (and consequent loss in quality).

Performance and Ports

Panasonic has provided the LX100 II with additional buffer memory, allowing it to take up to 33 Raws in a row, compared to 9 shots on the LX100. The burst rate remains the same: 11 fps with AE and AF locked, and 5.5 fps with continuous autofocus.

The LX100 II continues to use Depth from Defocus contrast-detect autofocus, which has proven itself to be responsive and reliable. We’ll see how it perform when we review the camera.

Despite having 4K video capability, the only two ports on the camera are for USB and HDMI. No external mic socket here, much less a headphone socket for monitoring audio.

Bluetooth and Batteries

The LX100 had Wi-Fi and the LX100 II offers Bluetooth as well, for a constant connection between smartphone and camera. The Panasonic Image App has an ‘Easy Remote Control’ which will wake up the camera for you, and it can also take advantage of Bluetooth to automatically transfer photos you’ve taken.

The DMW-BLG10 battery is the same on both the LX100 I/II. Battery life is up by about 10% compared to the original model to 340 shots/charge, which is good for an enthusiast compact.

Included external flash

There’s absolutely no room on the LX100 II for a built-in flash, so Panasonic includes a compact external flash. The flash has a guide number of 10 meters (33 feet) at the camera’s base ISO of 200 but cannot be redirected or bounced. If you want a more powerful or flexible flash, Panasonic has a couple of options available.

Wrap-up

The Panasonic DC-LX100 Mark II’s impressive combination of a large sensor and fast, 24-75mm equiv. lens makes it an appealing enthusiast compact. It’s not pocket-sized like the RX100 V and Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II, but that’s the trade-off for the sensor and lens.

The LX100 II will be available in October at a price of $ 999. That’s the same price as the Sony RX100 V and $ 100 more than the MSRP of the original LX100, by the way.

Look for a full review of the LX100 II in the not-too-distant future.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

15 Aug

Here are some practical steps to take and 5 photography mistakes you want to avoid in order to help you capture better seascape images.

Capturing seascapes is a very popular past-time and one of the most enjoyable and fascinating types of landscape photography. People love to capture the ocean and for good reason.

Seas around the world are more accessible than ever to the majority of us. People take regular holidays to visit the abundance of natural beaches and the ocean provides a fantastic place of escape and freedom from bustling towns and cities.

beach and palm tree - 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

The ocean is a breathtakingly beautiful place and offers peace, tranquility, and an ideal opportunity to capture some memorable images. While the coastline offers photographers spectacular seas and atmospheric skies, recording these scenes can be challenging.

Mistake #1 – Cloudless skies

A common mistake that is often presented in seascape imagery is a vast expanse of empty sky without any texture or formation from clouds to lift the image.

Seascape rocky shore sunset - Here are some practical steps to take and mistakes you want to avoid to help you capture better seascape images.

To avoid this pitfall, head to the coast on partially cloudy days. Photographing ocean vistas to include the different patterns and shapes of clouds above the sea will help your images to become more inspiring.

If you find yourself taking pictures by the sea during first and last light, you will discover the colors in the sky can look even more dramatic than at other times of the day. This can beautify your image with vibrant sunset skies igniting the sky.

Alternatively, capturing big white clouds to complement a blue sky or dark, moody and overcast skies can add drama and emotion to your images.

Seascape with clouds - 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

Mistake #2 – Not checking the tide schedule

If you are unprepared during a visit to photograph the ocean by not checking the tide schedule, you may get caught out by incoming tides and even freak waves during adverse weather.

The sea and waves can be unpredictable and powerful. I have ended up with wet shoes countless times while trying to capture the moving waves. Be mindful of the risks the ocean presents to you and the harmful impact the saltwater can have on your camera and equipment.

Always protect your camera (a plastic bag can keep it safe from the salty sea air) and be sure to clean your camera when you return home.

Seascape long exposure - 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

If you would like to capture the swell of the ocean at high tide or an exposed bay of rocks during low tide, be sure to check the tide times and visit at the right hour.

You will find that planning to be at the coast when the tide is at a certain point will help you shoot better compositions and seascape photos.

Mistake #3 – Not considering your composition

Capturing beautiful images of the coast is not as straightforward as you might think, especially if you don’t think about your composition carefully. A few things worth considering are leading lines and the rule of thirds.

Seascape blue sunset - 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

Leading lines are a great way to lead the viewer’s eye into the frame toward the main focal point in the photo. They can help to create depth in an image and provide more purpose.

When photographing the sea, you will find that placing the horizon in the middle of the image will generally be less effective than positioning the water level above or below the center of the frame.

Seascape simplified - 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

You may be asking if should you include more sea or more sky in your composition? Well, that depends on the nature of the scene in front of you and what is the most interesting and important aspect of the story.

If the sky is compelling and vibrant, your image will be stronger by including more sky. But if the sky is uninviting and lacks drama while the ocean is swirling beautifully, compose the image to include more of the sea.

Whatever you decide to shoot, be imaginative and creative with your composition and capture some great images.

Mistake #4 – No focal point

Seascape blue water and a fish - 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

One of the great benefits of being by the coast is the variety of subjects to shoot. However, it is surprising to see the number of times beginner photographers take images of the sea without including a strong focal point in their images.

You could focus your camera on any number of interesting material at the sea such as piers, fishing boats, lighthouses, cliffs, rocks or fish.

Mistake #5 – Not including any foreground interest in the shot

While the sea can make an exciting subject, a mistake newbie photographers tend to make when capturing the ocean is to photograph the sea and sky with nothing in the foreground.

This can occasionally work well in the right light and setting.

Seascape foreground rocks - 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes

But capturing an extra element such as cliff ledges, flowers, shells, or footprints in the sand will add context and another dimension to your image to help it stand out.

Conclusion

The best seascape images rarely happen by chance. Instead, they are the result of careful planning, diligence, and practice. Keep exposing, avoid these photography mistakes and use the tips and with plenty of practice, you will soon be capturing breathtakingly beautiful images!

How about you, what do you enjoy about seascape photography? Please share your tips and images below, as well as any questions you might have.

The post 5 Photography Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Shooting Seascapes appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

13 Aug

You’ve just splashed out a vast sum of money on a shiny new camera to do amazing travel photography, but what’s next? There are so many different lenses, accessories, and even filters to choose from. Most people would not be able to afford to buy everything they need in one go. So what should you buy first?

Fear not, here is a simple guide on what to purchase, and in what order, after you have bought a new camera.

photo on the back of a DSLR camera - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

1. Lens

It may seem pretty obvious but you won’t be able to do much without a lens for your camera, so naturally, this should be the first purchase.

But the lens you choose will impact on the quality of your photos. For travel photography, you will be able to get away with only using one lens most of the time so try to buy the best lens that you can afford. Look for something that has a good focal length range and is fairly fast.

Something like a 24-70mm lens will often mean you can get 95% of the shots that you would take.

24-70mm and 70-200mm lenses - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

Left: 24-70mm f/2.8. Right: 70-200mm f/2.8 lens.

2. Memory Cards

The next vital purchase is at least one memory card to be able to store your photos.

Again this is something that is worth spending a little more money on in order to buy a higher capacity memory card. If you are going to be shooting in RAW format (which you should be doing) then your file sizes will be large. This means memory cards can fill up pretty quickly. Something like a 32gb or 64gb memory card should usually last a few days, depending on what you’re shooting.

Whether you buy more will come down to your budget. Using one card will mean that you have to clear your memory cards each day or every few days. So if you can afford a couple more, it will be worth the investment.

CF memory cards in a case - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

3. UV Filter

A UV filter might seem like an unnecessary expense, but the real benefit of buying one is to protect your lens’s glass.

They are pretty cheap to buy compared to having to repair a lens so consider getting one straight away. I fit every one of my lenses with a UV filter the day that it comes out of the box.

Canon L-series lens with a UV filter fitted on the front

4. Tripod

Most travel photographers would put a tripod at the top of the list of their accessories. This is with good reason. If you want to capture the best possible photos at the best possible time of the day a tripod is a must.

During low light conditions, you simply will not be able to hold a camera steady enough to take a sharp photo. The only way will be to raise your ISO which will in turn mean noise in your final shot.

But it’s also worth investing in a good tripod rather than something that is cheap and flimsy. I always find it astonishing when I see people with expensive cameras using poor quality tripods. Not only are poor quality tripods subject to vibrations which cause camera shake and blurred photos, but they are putting their expensive camera at risk of falling over.

So, always look to buy a good quality tripod that can support the weight of your DSLR.

camera on a tripod overlooking a landscape scene - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

5. Camera Bag

Over time most photographers will end up with a collection of different bags for different scenarios. For example, a long hike will require a bigger bag, whereas day to day, you will need something more compact.

But most people can certainly get by with one bag to start off with so look for something that you can use day to day. I would always recommend buying a day backpack as a first camera bag as opposed to a top-loader or sling bag.

Look for one that is carry-on approved as you should always take you camera equipment on board rather than checking it in when you’re flying. It’s also worth buying one that you can strap your tripod to and has space for a laptop.

There are so many choices out there so do your research and even test them out at your local camera store before buying one. It’s an important purchase that will not only keep your camera equipment safe, but also mean carrying things in comfort.

camera bag full of gear - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

6. Graduated Neutral Density Filters

Once you’ve purchased the above items it’s time to start building up an inventory of the more specialized things you might need.

Graduated Neutral Density filters are incredibly useful anytime you are photographing at sunrise or sunset. They help to even out the light across your image when you are faced with one area being too bright (the sky) and another area being dark (the foreground).

They will generally come as a glass rectangle that fits onto the front of a lens with an adaptor. There are also screw-in versions (like traditional polarizing or UV filters) but frankly, they are a poor substitute in my opinion.

There are a whole range of brands and options and buying a complete set can work out to be pretty expensive. But you will find them incredibly useful and use them for years.

Canon camera with filter on the lens - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

7. Polarizing Filter

The next thing that you should look to purchase is a polarizing filter. Primarily used for suppressing glare or reflections these little screw-in filters can be really useful when photographing water, metallic objects, or even glass (like shop windows).

They also have the added benefit of darkening blues and greens which makes them very useful for landscape and travel photography. Like most photographic items you are better off purchasing a better quality version rather than cheap alternatives that can have a detrimental effect on the sharpness of the image.

beach scene tropical location - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

Use a polarizing filter to darken the sky to a rich blue like in this image.

8. Neutral Density Filters

Whereas Graduated ND filters are used for darkening part of the image, these filters can darken the whole scene. They are essentially a square or rectangular piece of glass that come in different darkness levels (representing the same effect as stopping down you aperture).

You might be wandering when you will ever need to darken the scene? Well, for example, if you are photographing water during the day you could use a Neutral Density filter to help you capture a smooth moving water effect. Or cloud movements in the sky.

Again a full set of these filters can be expensive so build up your collection slowly over time.

waterfall and a river flowing - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

9. Spare Batteries

While most people can get by with one battery, it’s always worth having a spare. The last thing you would want is to run out of power mid-way through a shoot.

Keep in mind that long exposure photography will drain your battery more quickly than photographing during the day. So if you are going to be doing a lot of this kind of photography or if you’re heading to a remote place with no electricity, this item may move up on your priority list.

I tend to travel with around six batteries in total and charge the ones I have used each night.

camera batteries - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

10. GorillaPod

It could be argued that a cable release should be on this list, but as you can use your camera’s timer instead, I feel a GorillaPod will be a better purchase.

The great thing about these small bendy tripods is that they will often draw less attention than a regular one. So in places where tripods are not allowed, you might get away with a GorillaPod. The other great thing about them is that you can set them up on tables, which makes them great for food photography on the go.

Just make sure that the GorillaPod you select can support the weight of your camera and not collapse.

gorillapod - The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography

Conclusion

There you have the 10 items that you should buy in order after you’ve purchased your camera. There will always be exceptions and you might need to tweak this order for your needs. Building your camera and accessories collection up is expensive, so the key is to plan out your purchases in order and take your time.

What do you think? Have I missed anything? Anything you would swap with the 10 on the list? Share your answers below.

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5 Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography

26 Jul

A favorite subject for many street photographers is the market. It’s no surprise either, as these places have a lot of life going on, and therefore many good photography opportunities. The best way to get the most out of your street market photography is to get organized.

That means going in with a plan, which for photographers means a list of photographs you intend to take. So in this article, you’ll get an idea of what those photos should be, read on to find out.

#1 – An overall scene-setting shot

Five Essential Street Market Photos You Need to GetFive Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography

A scene-setting photo that shows the scale of the market will often need to be taken from a high vantage point.

This is the photo that tells the viewer about the scale of the market. It’s the entry point for the viewer into all the other photos that will go into this set. There will be different approaches to achieving this photo, and depending on the location of the market some options might not be available to you.

Bird’s eye view – To get this photo you’ll need to find a high vantage point of some description. The aim is to capture the whole market or as much of it as possible in one shot. You essentially want to show the size of this market before you present the more human photos. Your lens choice will depend on how far away from the market your vantage point is located. Typically you’ll want to use a wide-angle lens for this, although photographing from a distance means a longer focal length is always possible. A third possibility these days is using a drone (check the laws in your area first!), with this available you’ll not need to spend the time looking for a vantage point.
Wide-angle – Assuming you’re not able to utilize a bird’s eye view, the next option is a wide angle photo from street level. You won’t capture the whole market, but a sense of scale is still possible. These type of photos will work best with an indoor location where you can capture interior architecture.
The tunnel – Finally many markets will have market stalls along a road that seem to go off into infinity. The best method to capture this is to use a longer focal length lens to compress the scene. If the market stalls are on both sides of the road this may well give the effect of a tunnel.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - market near train tracks

Elements in the photo that give context to the scene are a good idea. Here you can see this is a railway market.

#2 – A staged portrait

Photographing strangers is a big part of market photography. In order to get a good photo of market vendors, there are several steps which you’ll need to take as a photographer.

Gaining permission – As this photo is staged, you’ll first need to ask the person for their permission. In some cases, this will be a simple request, which is either accepted or refused. In order to increase your chances of getting a “yes”, buying something from a street vendor will help, you may even offer to pay cash just for the photo. Are you in a location where you don’t speak the local language? Learning the simple expression, “May I take your photo please?” is a great idea, and failing that body language can be surprisingly effective.
Taking the photo – As you’ve gained permission for this photo, you’ll likely be standing close to your subject. The best lens for this is a prime lens that’s good for portraits such as the 50mm. It’s preferable that you spend time to build rapport with your subject before taking the photo, this will give you a more natural looking photo. Then take care of the usual things like a nice clean background, and light coming from the right direction to light up the person’s face.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - vendor selling fruit in large baskets

Gaining permission to take the photo allows you to control the scene a bit more.

#3 – A candid portrait

Candid street market photos will likely make up the majority of your photos of the market. Getting good photos here will require quick wits, and an ability to blend in.

The decisive moment – Capturing the decisive moment can make or break your photo. To increase your chance of getting this moment you need to position yourself in the right place. Look for spots where there are many human interactions, and anticipate the right moment. So this might be a customer interacting with a vendor, or perhaps a street hawker cooking some food.
Hip photography – One way to be more conspicuous with your photography, and get natural looking photos is to experiment with hip photography. If your camera is not at your eye most people will assume you’re not taking a photo of them. So if your camera is at your hip instead you can get close to your subject, and take the photo from the hip secretly, without drawing attention to yourself. To get this technique right takes a bit of practice. Focus your camera to a set distance before taking the photo, and keep the camera in manual focus to prevent it from refocusing. Use a small aperture of f/16 or smaller, so you have a large depth of field.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - man selling fish at a market on the train tracks

This photo is a candid, the rail lines frame the vendor nicely.

#4 – Detail photos

The produce you’ll find at the market can make for some excellent detail photos to go in your street market photography selection. In theory, these photos should be the easiest to come by. Because it’s still life photography you won’t need to get permission from a person to take the photo. However, you are taking photos of someone’s stock, so ask permission to take the photo first.

Repeating patterns – Items like fish or fruit make great subjects for repeating patterns. Often the vendor will have these lined up in an aesthetically pleasing manner, so as a photographer you just need to concentrate on good framing.
Contrast – Look for color contrast, perhaps between fruits of differing color, or table backgrounds against produce. Colorful images will look good in your street market photography collection.
Change the angle – The majority of detail photos are taken from the top down. Changing the angle can still give you an interesting detail photo though, but with more depth to it. If you use a low enough angle you may even get some bokeh background in your frame.

apples in baskets next to train tracks - Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography

This is a detail photo, but once again context is inferred with the train track.

#5 – Something more creative

Finally, it’s always good to introduce a little creativity to your street market photography. These are the type of photos you’ll want to go for once you’ve bagged the other photos in this list.

There are many ways you can be creative with your market photography, below are a few ideas.

Low key – Markets are great places to find shards of light, a gap in the roofing perhaps that lets the sunlight through? You can use that light to create a low key portrait. Simply expose for the sunlit area, and underexpose the background. You will likely be exposing at -2EV or -3EV to create a photo like this. Wait for your subjects face to be lit up by the sun, and take your photo.
Blur – The use of blur can create a dynamic edge to your photo. Whether you attempt a panning photo, or put your camera on a tripod and expose for around 1/3 of a second to capture the motion of people moving about the market is for you to decide.
Crystal ball – A versatile object that can be applied to many different genres of photography. If you’re looking for a photo with a fish-eye like feeling but compressed into the ball, then this is a great option.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - low key portrait of a lady

Creating a low key photo is one option for more creative street market photography.

Now it’s time for you to do some market photography!

So do you enjoy street market photography? What’s your favorite type of photo to take while you’re in the hustle and bustle of a market?

What time of the day do you typically photograph markets? Do you like to go at the crack of dawn to see all the life at a fish market? Or do you go for the low light magic of a night market?

What tips do you have for getting the best results from this genre of street photography? As always please share your photos and ideas in the comments section of this article.

street market photography - vendors selling goods on train tracks

In this photo, the motion blur of a moving train can be seen behind the market vendors.

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Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera’s Diopter – Here’s How

23 Jul

Have you ever looked through a camera’s viewfinder and only been able to see a blurry image even after focusing? If you are always seeing a blurred image the diopter is not set correctly for your eyes. This happens every time I pick up my wife’s camera. She is near-sighted and I am far sighted.

Demonstration of diopter blur photo - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

What your viewfinder looks like when the diopter is not set correctly for your eye.

What is a diopter?

The diopter is a small lens in your camera’s viewfinder. It allows you to match the focus of your viewfinder to your eye. So before I can see anything clearly through the viewfinder on my wife’s camera I must focus this small lens. She has to do the same when she uses my camera.

If your eyesight is good and you are using a camera that’s had the diopter adjusted, you will see a blurry image in the viewfinder. You will need to adjust the diopter to correct this so you can see a sharp image.

I am surprised by the number of people who join our workshops here in Thailand that tell me they never see anything sharp in their viewfinder. After a quick adjustment, they are often surprised by how sharp the image is appearing in their viewfinder.

sharp photo illustrating diopter setting - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

When your diopter is adjusted properly you will see a sharp image and a sharp information display.

The easiest way to see if your diopter needs adjusting is to look at the information and guidelines you see in your viewfinder. If you cannot clearly see the numbers and lines sharply this means your diopter is not set correctly for your eyes.

How to Adjust the Diopter

DSLR cameras with optical viewfinders and mirrorless cameras with electronic viewfinders all have diopters.

Locate the Diopter Adjustment Control

The diopter adjustment control will most likely be a small wheel or slider close to your camera’s viewfinder. Most diopter controls are labeled with + and – signs.

Mount Your Camera

When you want to adjust the diopter it is best to have your camera mounted on a tripod or somewhere it will not move. You want to do this where you have a scene with good contrast. Something that your camera can autofocus on easily.

Focus Your Camera

Focus your camera using the autofocus. If you are using a camera or lens without autofocus you will need to look at the focus indicators in the viewfinder to ensure the lens is in focus. If your diopter is adjusted incorrectly for your eyes you will not see a sharp image in the viewfinder at this point.

Adjust Your Diopter

Start to turn the diopter wheel or move the slider. As the image comes into focus keep adjusting until you see a blurred image again. Now dial back your control so you see a sharp image (go back and forth until it’s as sharp as you can get). Now your diopter should be set correctly.

If you cannot see a sharp image in your viewfinder at any point of the adjustment you need to look at the display information. The exposure display in the viewfinder will come into focus at some point. If the display info is sharp in your viewfinder but the image is still blurry, you have a different problem.

The problem may be with the camera’s autofocus system or the lens. Here are a few suggestions for what to do in this situation:

Try changing lenses or zooming.
Make sure your lens is set to autofocus.
Attempt to focus manually.
Check focus using your camera’s LCD screen and Live View
Take your camera for repair.

Chinese Woman Photographer - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

Wearing Glasses or Contacts

If you normally wear glasses or contact lenses you can adjust your diopter to suit. If you prefer wearing glasses while using your camera, adjust the diopter with your glasses on.

But if you prefer not to wear your glasses while using your camera’s viewfinder, make the adjustments while you are not wearing them. If your eyesight is quite bad you may not be able to adjust your diopter sufficiently though and may need to keep your glasses on.

Add-On Diopter Accessories

If your diopter will not adjust to give you a clear image in your viewfinder you might need an add-on accessory diopter. Not all camera models will accommodate these so you will need to check your camera manual.

Boy with glasses - Viewfinder Image Blurry? You May Need to Adjust Your Camera's Diopter - Here's How

Diopter adjustment is simple but can make a significant difference to your photography enjoyment. It is always good to see a sharp image when you look through your viewfinder.

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Are You Using Your Camera Wrong? 7 Errors You Need to Avoid

13 Jul

Are you making these 7 mistakes with your camera? Let’s find out.

7 Ways You’re Using Your Camera Wrong

Here’s a recap and links to some dPS articles to help you avoid making these mistakes with your camera.

Holding your camera the wrong way – Cheat Sheet: How to Hold a Camera
Not cleaning your lens – Step by Step How to Clean Camera Gear so it Stays in Good Shape
Not having enough batteries or memory cards – Packing your Bags for a Photo Shoot and How to Select the Right Camera Memory Card
Not adjusting your focus point – Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique and Getting Sharper Images – an Understanding of Focus Modes
Shooting in full Automatic or the wrong mode – Getting off Auto – Manual, Aperture, and Shutter Priority modes explained
Don’t use Auto White Balance – How Auto White Balance Can Hinder Your Photography
Not shooting in RAW – Tips for Choosing Between RAW Versus JPEG File Format and Is Shooting RAW+JPEG the Best of Both Worlds? and finally, RAW Versus JPG – Why You Might Want to Shoot in RAW Format

Are you guilty of making any of those camera errors?

Can you think of any other common camera mistakes that beginners need to avoid? If so, please join in the discussion and post them in the comments area below.

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5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients

12 Jul

Don’t make these 5 crucial mistakes when photographing clients!

Over the years I have read dozens of articles explaining tips, tricks, and things to keep in mind for successful photo sessions. As I was wrapping up a family shoot recently I started to think about the situation from the opposite end of the spectrum. Kind of as a way of giving some advice to my younger self or other photographers who might still be honing their craft.

So instead of five tips to try here, are five things you should never do if you want your photo sessions with clients to run smoothly.

5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients - family photo

Mistake #1 – Not showing up on time

This one is a bit of a carryover from my childhood and is based on a lesson my dad taught me at a very young age. Whether my siblings and I were going to church, to school, or even just to a friend’s house he would repeatedly stress that we ought to arrive at our destination at least 10 minutes early. If we show up on time, he reminded us over and over again, we’re already late.

That might have been a bit of an oversimplification but the lesson still sticks with me to this day. It’s also one that is especially true when it comes to photographing clients.

If you are to meet at a certain location at a certain time, do not arrive when you have agreed to. Instead, make sure to get there at least 10 minutes early, and that’s the bare minimum. The earlier you arrive the more you can prepare, especially if the session is outdoors or in another type of uncontrolled environment.

fossil watch - 5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients

As my dad would say – if you get there on time you’re already late.

Arriving early allows you to assess the situation, get your cameras and lenses in order, double-check your settings (did you remember to turn on Image Stabilization? Are you still shooting at ISO 3200 from last night’s star-trail experiment?) and mentally prepare yourself for the photo session.

It also sends a message to your clients that you’re responsible and you care about the job. If you show up on time you might end up arriving after your clients. If they’re like my father and got there early they may be wondering where their photographer is. It doesn’t take much effort to arrive well in advance but it can pay huge dividends and set a positive tone for the rest of the photo session.

Mistake #2 – Don’t dress casually

portrait of a couple in a garden - 5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients

Your clients go out of their way to dress for the session. You should too.

This one is a big deal for me because I’m perpetually wearing the same clothes I wore in college: jeans and a t-shirt. It’s my go-to outfit for just about any situation and there were a few times early in my photography work with clients that I treated sessions as just another day out when I could dress casually. However, doing that sends an unfortunate message to your clients that you can easily avoid with very little effort.

Jeans and a t-shirt might seem fine to you but your clients might take this as a sign that you are a bit of a slacker or that you don’t care enough about your work (or them) to look the part. Clients are more likely to see your work as high-quality if you take the time to dress up a bit.

Wear nice clothes as a way of projecting a professional image. It will help clients have a more positive view of you, your work, and the session as a whole.

family sitting on the grass - 5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients

Some clients prefer a more casual style for themselves, and that’s fine. But it never hurts for you to wear nicer clothes as a way of projecting an image of professionalism.

Mistake #3 – Don’t make fun of your clients to get a laugh

Tell me if this sounds familiar. You’re doing a photo session and it’s going reasonably well but your clients aren’t responding quite how you would like. You’re trying to get them to loosen up, relax, and smile but they still seem a bit reserved and hesitant. As a result, your pictures just aren’t quite as good as you know they could be.

So you decide to crack a joke at the expense of one of your clients who is balding, wearing mismatched socks, doesn’t realize his shirt is un-tucked, or maybe just not quite paying attention.

Oh no, the glare from Bob’s head is messing up my camera! Hang on a second, I’m being blinded over here!

Does that scenario ring a bell? I have almost done this on a couple of occasions but stopped each time, and I’m so glad I did. You might think your comments are benign and all in good fun, but the person might be sensitive about the very thing you are pointing out. You could easily cause some hurt feelings or even downright anger.

Your clients might respond to these quips with laughter but on the inside, they may feel something entirely different that could cost you referrals, repeat business, or in-person sales.

family walking on a pathway - 5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients

This family was an absolute joy to work with. I would never want to sacrifice meaningful professional relationships with them or anyone else just for a quick laugh.

The damage that is done by what seems like benign comments could linger for a long time and have consequences well beyond the session itself. Instead of aiming for a cheap laugh, strive to maintain a level of professionalism when interacting with and photographing clients on a shoot.

If you get to know them a bit (another benefit to showing up early!) they will be more likely to loosen up, cooperate, and give you the type of pictures you are really striving for.

Mistake #4 – Don’t use your phone during the session

I know how tempting it can be to reach for your phone during a photo session, and there might even be a thousand good reasons to do so. What if it’s a text from your landlord? Maybe your cousin sent you a Snapchat message about his new job? What if your spouse is going to be home late and needs you to pick up the kids? Certainly, your clients would understand if you peeked at your phone for just a bit…right?

They might understand, but they might also wonder why you are getting distracted while they are paying you to do a job. One little peek at your phone often turns into two, then three, and pretty soon you find yourself missing shots or watching your clients roll their eyes in exasperation because you’re looking at your phone more than your camera.

portrait of teenagers - 5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients

My advice is simple, just ignore your phone. Better yet, leave it in your car or put it on silent and stick it in your gear bag. If you think you might need to check it during a session, tell your clients in advance (yet another reason to arrive early) and ask their permission to take a minute at a certain pre-planned time to do so.

This might seem overly restrictive, but it’s so easy to get caught up in the alerts and messages on your phone that you might not even realize how much you are actually using it. Your clients will probably not notice if you are NOT using your phone, but they will certainly notice if you ARE using your phone and they might not want to hire you back as a result.

Mistake #5 – Don’t over-extend the session

Many photographers charge clients a certain amount based on the length of time that they offer for sessions. One-hour portraits, two-hour engagements, 15-minute minis, or 3 hours of wedding plus 2 hours of reception coverage, for example.

This usually works well and gives both the photographer and the clients a set of shared expectations, but it can backfire in some unexpected ways depending on the type of clients you are working with.

little girl in a blue dress - 5 Crucial Mistakes You Need to Avoid When Photographing Clients

15 minutes in and this precious little girl was ready to be done. Extending the session would have made her fussy and stressed out her parents too.

Know when to fold

There’s a line in an old Kenny Rogers song that’s quite à propos for photographers, “You got to know when to hold ’em and know when to fold ’em”. As a photographer, you need to learn how to read the situation, watch your client’s body language, and get their input on how to proceed when you feel like the session needs to draw to a close.

Your clients might be paying you for a one-hour session but if the kids are fussy, the grandparents are tired, and the shirts are getting sweat marks after only 40 minutes then you really need to find a way to shut it down tactfully and gracefully.

The best way I have found to do this is to keep an open dialog with clients throughout the session. Talk with them as you take their pictures and let them know that you are willing to adjust as needed especially if kids are involved. Your clients expect you to be in charge and they often won’t speak up for fear of being rude or confrontational.

So read the situation closely and take the initiative if you think it’s time to put the camera away. Your clients will probably be glad you did.

Talk to your clients and make the call

I have had parents thank me profusely for ending sessions early because their children were wilting after only 30 minutes. I once did an entire one-hour family session in 20 minutes on a single spot in a grove of trees because three generations were involved and the elders were exhausted and tired.

In both situations, I got input from the clients constantly and let them know that I was aware that people were ready to be done even though there was still time left on the clock.

The time might not be up, but if the session needs to be over then you have to bring it to a close. Extending it needlessly just to fill the time allotted could cause more headaches than it’s worth. Alternately, don’t go over your time unless you get permission from your clients. If they are expecting one hour and that time is up, don’t keep shooting unless you’re sure it’s fine with them. Doing otherwise could come across as rude or insensitive, no matter how good the pictures turn out.

Conclusion

I hope this gives you a few ideas to try or, more accurately, to avoid the next time you are photographing clients. If you have any tips on what to avoid I’d be glad to have your input in the comments below, and I’m sure other dPS readers would as well!

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Nikon Coolpix P1000: what you need to know

11 Jul

Nikon Coolpix P1000: what you need to know

Nikon’s new Coolpix P1000 boasts an extraordinary zoom range and a suite of powerful stills and video features in a (relatively) compact body. We loved the original P900 for its sharp lens and effective stabilization, but its unimpressive EVF and lack of Raw capture mode made it less fun to use than it could have been.

The P1000 addresses both issues and greatly expands the zoom range, which now caps out at 3000mm (equivalent). Take a look through this slideshow for a detailed overview of this powerful compact’s key features.

All images supplied by Nikon and used with permission.

125X optical zoom (24-3000mm equivalent)

The headline feature of the P1000 is undoubtedly its zoom lens, which covers an astonishing (but no longer incredible) range of 24-3000mm (equiv). That’s wide enough to capture landscapes or interiors at the wide end, and closeup shots of the moon at the telephoto setting.

Notice we said closeups of the moon. The shot above (supplied by Nikon) was taken at ~2600mm (equiv) and as you can see, the moon almost fills the frame, even before the zoom is racked in to its maximum extent. Just to really hammer the point home, Nikon has even included a dedicated ‘moon mode’ on the main exposure mode dial.

125X optical zoom (24-3000mm equivalent)

Optical construction of this complex zoom is composed of 17 elements in 12 groups (including five ED lens elements and one super ED lens element) but there are tradeoffs. A decidedly slow maximum aperture of F8 at the long end is the most obvious one, and we’d also expect diffraction to take a significant bite out of sharpness towards the long end of the zoom (alongside heat haze and the effects of atmospheric pollutants when shooting distant objects).

Still though – the moon. That’s pretty cool.

The lens can be zoomed with a conventional W-T rocker switch surrounding the shutter release, or with a video camera-style switch on the lens housing itself (not visible in this image). This shot shots off the P1000’s generously-sized grip – a near-necessity for a camera with such a long zoom. At full extension, the P1000’s lens almost doubles the total length of the camera.

1cm macro focus

As well as the ability to shoot celestial bodies, the P1000 offers a 1cm minimum focus distance for macro shots. Such a short minimum distance is of limited use in most situations (the shadow of the lens becomes an issue at very close distances) but such a close focusing range should open up some fun creative possibilities for closeups.

Dual Detect Optical VR

You can’t really have a 24-3000mm equivalent zoom without stabilization, and the P1000 boasts a claimed 5 stops of stabilization thanks to its Dual Detect Optical VR (Vibration Reduction) system, inherited from the P900. Dual Detect Optical VR uses accelerometers and corrective elements in the lens and analyzes the scene recorded by the camera’s sensor to reduce the effect of camera shake.

16-megapixel BSI-CMOS 1/2.3″ sensor

Like the P900, the Coolpix P1000 uses a small, 1/2.3″-type BSI-CMOS sensor. We don’t expect miracles from sensors this small (1/2.3″ used to be the standard format for pocket and travel-zoom compact cameras) but image quality from the P900 wasn’t bad, and aside from the possibly issues caused by an even longer lens, we’d expect the P1000 to be capable of delivering decent images in favorable conditions.

The addition of Raw mode (using the .NRW format) to the P1000 is very welcome, but it remains to be seen just how much extra resolution it’s possible to eke out of the camera’s Raw files. It’s likely that all of that glass – especially diffraction and haze-related issues at the long end of the zoom – will place a hard limit on absolute sharpness.

4K UHD video

The P1000 can shoot video as well as stills, at a maximum resolution of 4K UHD (3840 x 2160 pixels) at 30p. A stereo microphone is built in, and there’s a socket for an accessory mic if you need better sound.

Video can be recorded in clips up to 4GB in size or 29 minutes in length – whichever comes first. If a clip exceeds 4GB, another will be created, allowing uninterrupted filming (up to a total of 29 minutes), though Nikon warns there’s a possibility the camera may overheat before that 29 minute limit is reached.

EVF and LCD

The Nikon Coolpix P1000 is a DSLR-style compact, of the kind that we used to call ‘bridge cameras’ (since they represented a ‘bridge’ between conventional compact cameras and SLRs). As such, it features a 2.3 million-dot OLED electronic viewfinder in addition to a rear-mounted, 3.2″ 921k-dot LCD.

The EVF is a significant upgrade compared to the 921k-dot viewfinder of the older P900, but the P1000’s rear screen is unchanged compared to its predecessor. It’s fully articulated, which should prove very handy for all those macro and astro shots you’ll be taking, but it is not touch-sensitive. Also visible in this shot is the P1000’s conventional cluster of rear controls, and the shoulder-mounted rear control dial.

Size, weight and battery life

Despite its tiny sensor, the Coolpix P1000 is a big camera, even alongside its predecessor (shown here on the right). Weighing in at 1,415g (3 lb, 2 oz) it’s pretty weighty, too, tipping the scales at about nearly half a kilo (~one pound) heavier than the older P900 (and around $ 400 pricier at launch). That’s reassuring in a way (clearly there’s a lot of expensive and heavy glass inside that massive lens!) but it could make the P1000 a less enjoyable travel companion unless you really need its extraordinary zoom range.

A CIPA rating of 250 shots per charge is about what we’d expect from a camera of this type, and USB charging is always a welcome feature.

We’re looking forward to getting hold of a reviewable P1000 in the coming weeks, and in the meantime we’d be interested in hearing your thoughts – let us know what you think in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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What are Watt Seconds and How Many Do You Need?

06 Jul

If you’ve ever used studio lights or been in the market to buy some you may have heard the term “watt seconds” (Ws) used in conjunction with strobes. But what the heck does it mean? How do you know if you should buy a 500Ws light or one with more?

In this video, Mark Wallace from Adorama TV explains an often confusing term – watt seconds – and answers the question, “How many watt seconds do I need?”

What are watt seconds?

Now, once you’ve decided on how many watt seconds you need for your shooting environment and style, how will you put it to use? Here are some dPS articles that might help you out:

5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
Review: Interfit Honey Badger Studio Strobe and Universal Remote
Studio Starter Kit: How to Design a Starter Portable Studio
The Power of Shooting Simply with One Light and a Reflector
Rim Light – A Simple Way to Create Powerful Images with a Single Flash
Studio Starter Kit: How to Design a Starter Portable Studio

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Why You Need to Manage Expectations – Both Yours and Your Client’s

11 Jun

As you prepare for a photo session with clients you probably run through a checklist to make sure you don’t forget anything. Cameras? Check. Lenses? Check. Lighting modifiers? Good to go. Props, stepstools, spare batteries? Got ’em.

But one thing that often gets left behind, so to speak, is a set of expectations that you and your client might have for the photo session. You might have something in mind for the session based on your experience, your work with previous clients, or the particular set of gear you are bringing along. But if your clients have a different set of expectations it can spell big trouble and will require a lot more than a few batteries and extra memory cards to fix.

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - maternity photo

These clients hired me for a maternity session and it went smoothly thanks to a very clear set of expectations that we discussed beforehand.

Expectations are important

Think of the many ways in which your expectations influence your perception of the services and products you buy. When you go out to eat you will expect a certain level of service based on previous visits. If you go on vacation you will probably look for reviews online and base your satisfaction of the accommodations on how well those expectations were met.

If you hire a contractor to remodel your kitchen you will make sure to have lengthy discussions with them to make sure the work they perform is precisely what you want. It’s fair to say that as a consumer you probably base many of your buying decisions on expectations that have been set for you.

And yet, as a photographer, how often have you worked to set expectations for potential clients? Your website might proudly proclaim that you do weddings and formal events, but there are probably two dozen other photographers in your area who offer similar services. The same goes for most types of photography: families, youth sports, products, high school seniors, or even aerial drone images.

You’re good at what you do but what makes you stand out from the rest, and what can your clients expect when you show up to take pictures?

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - baby in a basket

What can clients expect from you?

One of the first things I learned when I started doing portraits for clients was that the things which I thought were the most important were not at the top of my clients’ priority lists. I spent so much time thinking about pricing and choosing a template for my website that I neglected to properly craft a message letting clients know what they could really expect out of me.

A few dozen sample images of portraits in parks along with a testimonial or two are a great way to market yourself. But these don’t really tell clients much about your approach to a photo session or what you will do to get the shots they are looking for.

Set expectations early

Think about the many ways in which you can set expectations in advance to let clients know how things will go. This goes well beyond simply telling your clients how much you charge, how many prints or images you will deliver, and whether you take checks or credit cards.

For a session to go smoothly think about the more esoteric expectations and do your best to manage them before a single click of your camera shutter. Some items to ponder would be…

Your shooting style: Are you easygoing, flexible, and open to improvisation or do you have a more strict and pre-planned approach to photo sessions?
Accepting input: Do you incorporate input from clients in terms of poses, locations, or picture ideas?
Who can attend the session: Will you let clients bring friends, family, or even pets to a photo session? (Not to get their pictures taken, but just for help, encouragement, or comfort.)
Where you draw the line: Are you willing to engage in illegal or semi-legal activity to get photos? Some clients might want to shoot in areas that prohibit trespassing or are otherwise off-limits which might be beyond the scope of your services. “But my friend got photos taken at this abandoned warehouse last year.” they might say, in which case you might advise your client to solicit the help of another photographer.
What types of pictures are off limits? Your clients might want to do pictures on train tracks or recreate some risqué images they saw on Instagram. If that’s not your cup of tea, your clients need to know about it. And in the case of train tracks, the answer should always be NO!

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - family photo of hands

This picture was not my idea; my clients suggested it on the day of the shoot, and we made it happen. I told them that I was open to their ideas so they offered some, and the results were great.

More expectation examples

Posing: Are you the type of photographer who likes to use specific formal poses or do you take a more casual hands-off approach? This is especially important if you are doing wedding and other types of events that are not easy to replicate.
What’s your approach to social media? Will you share pictures of the session online, talk about the session before or afterward, or snap behind-the-scenes photos to ingratiate yourself to other potential clients? Some people might be fine with this but other clients may prefer more privacy. If so you would need to adjust your approach for those clients, or let them know so they can make an informed decision about whether or not to use your services.
Photography locations: Do your clients want to shoot in locations that just won’t work (or the wrong time of day), or you simply can’t get to with your gear? Discuss what your clients expect beforehand so you won’t be caught off guard during the session if they ask you to shoot in a dimly-lit alley, behind a waterfall, or in the middle of a crowded mall.
Photography assistant: Do you use a second shooter and if so, what will his or her role be during the session?
Turn-around times: How long will your clients have to wait to get prints or digital files after the session?

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - cards from a funeral

I was asked by some friends to take pictures at a funeral for their loved one. The key to the whole experience was a crystal-clear understanding of what the clients wanted and what my role was as the photographer.

This is just a starting point. You are going to have other things that are unique to yourself and your photography. And even though some of these might be clearly spelled out in your contract, it’s a good idea to set and manage expectations clearly and without room for misinterpretation. A contract may cover you in legal terms, but don’t assume your clients have meticulously read and understand every single word.

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - graduation photo PhD

Open communication is key

In my experience, one of the best ways to set these expectations is to have some kind of real-time back-and-forth dialog with your clients. Exchanging information over email and social media is fine, but when it comes to hashing out the details of a photo session nothing beats a phone call or in-person meeting.

If the latter isn’t all that practical, then, by all means, talk with your clients on the phone or via video chat. This can help you set a positive tone for the session, ease their minds about any concerns they might have, and give you a chance to explain what they can expect. Reassure them that you have their best interests in mind.

What do you expect from your clients?

There’s a flip side to setting expectations and it’s one that sometimes gets overlooked when planning or executing a photo session. You might have bent over backward to let your clients know what to expect from you, but what have you done to let your clients know what you expect from them?

Just as every photographer is different, each client is also unique. They have an attitude and approach that separates them from everyone else. In order to make sure things run smoothly, think about ways to communicate your expectations of them with your clients. Otherwise you, and they could end up knee-deep in frustration with no easy way out.

Punctuality: Do you value punctuality and expect your clients to be on time for a photo shoot? This might seem obvious but not all clients take the same disciplined approach as you might when it comes to arriving when they are supposed to.
Cell phone usage during a session: Will you ask your clients to put their phones away during the session? For some photographers, this isn’t an issue, but others get irked if clients are constantly snapping, tweeting, and texting during a photo session. If you expect them to be focused and attentive, let them know in advance.

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - family photo of people walking

When this family arrived I spent a few minutes explaining how I was going to conduct the session and listened to their ideas as well. It set a positive tone that resulted in some images that they really liked.

More examples of your potential expectations:

Transportation on-site: Do you expect your clients to be able to walk around or transport themselves to different locations? If you are doing high school senior photos do you plan on taking them to different locations in your vehicle? If so, do the seniors and their parents know that this might be a possibility? Iron out these details beforehand or you could find yourself in an uncomfortable situation the day of the shoot.
Other photographers at the session: If you are doing a wedding, will you be the only photographer or will the groom’s uncle (who just got a new DSLR for his birthday) be hanging out taking photos also? Some photographers don’t mind this sort of thing, but most would rather the clients tell Uncle Bob to leave his camera at home and let you do your job. Communicate your expectations well in advance to avoid hurt feelings the day of the ceremony.

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - 2 kids

When working with kids, especially infants, things are never going to go how you expect! But discussing things with the parents beforehand is a good way to help deal with issues as they crop up.

As before, these are only some of the things to consider when setting client expectations and the best way to go about doing that is with a phone call or other type of back-and-forth conversation. This information might be on your website, but it’s incumbent on you as the photographer to do everything you can to make sure your clients know what you expect of them. Don’t simply just assume they have read through every page of your site.

Why You Need to Manage Expectations - Both Yours and Your Client's - family photo

This family was a joy to work with, largely because of clear expectations from both parties (the family and myself).

Conclusion

Finally, one tip that might be useful to you is to make a checklist of these items so you have it handy during conversations with the client. This way you can update it over time as new issues come to light, and you can make sure to properly address all the most pressing expectation issues that could come into play before, during, and after a session.

The goal here is to make every session a positive experience for your clients as well as yourself, and the more work you do to manage expectations for all parties involved, the happier everyone will be.

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